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Well.. $450 is overpriced but it could be worse. You don’t need to install an SSD to upgrade beyond 10.8.5 but that is the recovery OS installed currently on your MacBook.
An SSD makes the 2012 MacBook Pro MUCH faster and it would definitely be worth installing one.
I would recommend the SK Hynix 2.5” 500GB
SK hynix Gold S31 SATA Gen3 2.5 inch Internal SSD | SSD 500GB | 500GB SATA | Up to 560MB/S | Solid State Drive | Compact 2.5' SSD Form Factor SK hynix SSD | Internal Solid State Drive | SATA SSD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SK5BNM1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_E18D3BCWECSFP9KSMD6N?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You need an installer for a newer OS, your best bet would be to borrow a MacBook running a newer OS and download it from the App Store. You can load the OS on a flash drive and use it to install in your SSD.
I’ve used this one many times as replacement with no issues. Padarsey New Laptop Replacement Keyboard Compatible for MacBook Pro 13-inch A1278 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 Year with 80Pce Keyboard Screws https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M03H4HO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7MQ6W8A1YABD0FRKK45N
No way to fix the keys. Odd that same keys don’t work though when a usb keyboard is plugged in. Remove bottom cover and pull out the keyboard connnector and try a usb keyboard again.
The 2012 most likely if your hardware test passed its going to be the HDD cable so try replace that they are cheap on ebay.
2009 i would suggest trying to install via usb https://lifehacker.com/how-to-make-a-bootable-macos-sierra-usb-flash-drive-1786853248
hope I understood properly :)
Easiest is pop it in another MacBook 2013-2015. Or this and it’s pricey. ACASIS USB C 3.0 Enclosure for Apple Flash PCle SSDs Supports for MacBook Pro with Retina Display mid-2013 and Later Models, 2014-2015 MacBook Air 2013-2017/A1465A1466A1398A1502 SSD Factory-Installed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08B634C7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_78NY33BE7ZBD1GY4RPKW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Either filesystem corruption or the more likely option of dying hard drive or even I/O cable failure.
Check out this article to see if the hard drive's SMART status is still good: http://osxdaily.com/2018/05/31/how-check-smart-status-mac-hard-disk/
Even if it reports back as good ("Verified") there might be an issue.
Another thing you can try is to do a filesystem repair: http://osxdaily.com/2012/02/08/repair-boot-disk-mac-os-x-disk-utilit/ (Keep in mind you need to do this from the Recovery enviroment)
Have you ever replaced your drive? Because this often causes the I/O cable to die as its very fragile.
I bought this one:
GBOLE A2338 Screen Replacement... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09R3XF7PH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I believe my connection is good. Like I said I reconnected the old one and it lights up but just looks like a Picasso painting.
Would this work? I apologize for my naïveté
I just found this kit. Are these replaced from the top, or do I need to take apart the computer from the bottom and remove the keyboard and motherboard so on?
https://www.amazon.com/Replacement-Individual-Applicable-MacBook-Keyboard/dp/B08PYYPTW8
That one kind of looks funny, so I don’t think that one is an OEM. You want a 60W for your 13” Pro. 45W will only work on MacBook Airs. A 45W will turn your Mac on, but it won’t charge it. So depending on the best price you can find, you can also do an 85W, and that won’t hurt it. Here is one from Amazon. It’s about $82 USD though. https://www.amazon.se/Apple-MagSafe-n%C3%A4tadapter-f%C3%B6r-MacBook-13-tums/dp/B002TUQHVK/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?crid=2FQP0CD5KXTV9&keywords=magsafe+1+laddare+60w&qid=1653233412&sprefix=magsafe+1+laddar%2Caps%2C229&sr=8-2
Electrically the SSD is compatible with NVMe, and beacuse of that you can get a simple adapter to convert it to the M.2 formfactor, then use any generic M.2 to USB adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/Express-M-Key-Apple-Macbook-Convert/dp/B017QXT8IS
https://www.amazon.com/SSK-Aluminum-Enclosure-Adapter-External/dp/B07MNFH1PX
Just be aware that some Apple SSDs throw a hissy fit and won't operate in NVMe mode, and instead fall back to a sata mode and not all adapters will do both NVMe and SATA. I learned that the hard way when a 1TB Apple drive in my desktop would take 2.5 minutes to post, then it would operate only in sata mode despite it being from a 2015 MBP that's definitely NVMe.
AITRIP 2PACK Type-C USB Tester USB Power Meter, USB C Voltage Tester Multimeter 0-5A 4-30V Current Meter Tester, USB-C Charger Tester, Color Display Type C Voltmeter Ammeter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T1WTBXM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4QV4DPGP9W2DGMKNKJ9V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1. I use these
I have used this adapter with multiple types of PCIE m.2 ssd for MacBooks and have all worked well.
Sintech NGFF M.2 nVME SSD Adapter Card for Upgrade MacBook Air(2013-2016 Year) and MacBook PRO(Late 2013-2015 Year) (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FYY3H5F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_W5RK44EYP1D5AZKG7ZRT
These have always worked well for me and good price. PNY CS900 500GB 3D NAND 2.5" SATA III Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) - (SSD7CS900-500-RB) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XZLN9KM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_PET9XMFZ2KBHP3052CB9?psc=1
I have a Macbook A1398 (Mid 2015, 15" Pro) that is doing nearly the same thing that I am presently troubleshooting. In my case, it won't turn on or do anything, and when I plug in the charger, it is green for a few seconds, then turns to orange, as if it is charging. I'm still troubleshooting mine but here's what I'm trying so far.
- I had replaced the battery on this mac about 3 years ago because the other one was not holding charge. That has worked great until now, so I went ahead and ordered a new battery and installed it, thinking the battery had failed.
- With the new battery, the mac started right up, on battery, no charger! Yay! So it's clearly power related. Then I plugged in the charger and it said "7%, charging". I set it to update and left it for an hour, and then it turned off and is now doing the same thing with the new battery, won't turn on, green then orange on the magsafe. This makes me think the battery drained down and the charger might not actually be charging it, but somehow the mac and the Magsafe LED thinks it is charging.
- On advice from Macrumors forum, I ordered this part: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GZHDJ6B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to see if this was the culprit. It could be that that part is bad and juice is not making it to the actual battery to charge. It was only $13 so worth a try.
- I'll install that new power board this weekend and see if that improves anything.
This work?
CY PCI Express PCI-E 4X M.2 NGFF M-Key to 2013 2014 2015 MAC Pro Air SSD Convert Card for A1493 A1502 A1465 A1466 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017QXT8IS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_63EFJSXNT5WST8VQZTH8
It is likely just a software fault so i would do a reinstall and then do a mac migration so its all fresh. You can back it up the the hdd and restore using mac migration assistant. I would also recommend doing a HDD test too on the machine as something like this could happen due to a failing HDD or HDD cable you can test the hdd like this http://osxdaily.com/2012/05/24/check-hard-drive-health-mac-disk-utility/
if you still have the problem after the reinstall and the hdd test doesn't pick anything up you may need to remove the hdd and test with hdat2 or something similar
Get a MagSafe 1 and MagSafe 2 and cut the blocks off. Peel the outside wrapping off a bit. There is a smaller wire that is wrapped in a looser wire around it. The outside is negative and the inside positive. I just connected both together with these:
Hilitchi 100Pcs 22-16 Gauge Insulated Ring Terminals Electrical Wire Crimp Connectors (M6, Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D848CHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_885V7DDTHXNC82JBGM48?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Then I use a USB-C ampmeter with a regular Mac power brick. For the MagSafes, get the 85W so you can support all models and I got a 91W for USB-C for that purpose. You can also buy this all together in one thing here:
https://www.mobilesentrix.com/battery-professional-dedicated-power-test-cable-for-macbook
It was this one, Replacement for MacBook Pro A1706 A1708 EMC 3071 EMC 3163 EMC 2978 EMC 3164 Late 2016 Mid 2017 Retina LCD Display Screen Complete Full Assembly Repair Part 661-05095 661-05096 13" (Space Gray) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B093P8KVL4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_KAVBYQ1AN4WG3599F5S8
this kit is working on many of my refurbished 2012 MBP.
But, be sure: - it is a MacBook Pro. Not an air. - it is a NON Retina MacBook Pro.
Not the only one for sure. I also found this one on amazon. I might also just look for adapters since they may be less expensive. I used to be able to find adapter cards that would convert to SATA which and use a USB to SATA adapter to pull the data off. But I only seem to be able to find these for older drives, not the one you need.
That’s some really weird s... tuff. Do the Mac feels too hot? Let’s try something... there’s a app from intel. I think it’s Intel Power Gadget that allows you to see if the amount of power it’s using and the processor frequency.
Install it and try Hulu. Too see if the processor speed drops or it gets too hot.
https://software.intel.com/content/www/us/en/develop/articles/intel-power-gadget.html
Here's the thing - so its not actually showing up anywhere BUT in System Information? Sounds like it isn't actually installed, just some temporary files. Or in fact it might not be installed at all. If you want to remove it properly, reinstall it, THEN uninstall using AppCleaner - it will remove all the files it creates that are hidden in /Library/ or wherever.
hey can I use this on my MacBook air 2015 11 in
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I believe this will work, otherwise another Mac that is functional with the same SSD will work in target disk mode. The battery being completely dead will not stop a laptop (even a mac) from turning on with an AC adapter attached. If it still will not power on with that plugged in you have larger issues.
Your best bet would be to find an external USB adapter/enclosure for the drive. Then you can plug it into another mac just like an external hard drive or flash drive. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/FREEGENE-ACASIS-Bus-Powered-Enclosure-Apple/dp/B08DFDX8WC/ref=psdc_160354011_t1_B07C2SL6RL
I am sure there are less expensive options, this is just an example.
NinjaBatt Battery A1466 A1496 for Apple MacBook Air 13 Inch [2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 Years] A1369 A1405 A1377 - High Capacity [7200mAh/55Wh/7.6V] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TRGN79B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5Y39T9EM3A7ANY1KG9FH These come with a 12 month warranty
Jessieblonde… the pliers worked!! Wow, wish I’d heard of these donkeys ago!! I’ve attached a link to some pics below and a link to the set I went for. Genuinely, there was no effort required whatsoever. The centre vertical teeth bit into the screw like cheese and it turned out with ease! I’m honestly gobsmacked at how well these worked.
Mini sized Gripping Pliers /... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001D7KU7W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Just waiting for my new screw to arrive. Thought about using a M.2 standard screw but read that the Apple one is 2.9mm whilst an M.2 is 3mm. Thought for the sake of 2 quid for a new one it’s worth just waiting an extra day or two. Thank you for your help!
It is the backlight film for the keyboard. As seen in this Amazon photo. SUNMALL Backlight A1278 Keyboard Replacement with Backlit Compatible with MacBook Pro 13" 2009-2015 Years US Layout MD313 MD314 MC374 MC375 MB466 MB467 MC700 MC724 MB990 Series Laptop https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073Y641SV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_H9AJ68K1HAR16S392SK8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
First thing i would do is shine a light on the screen while it's supposed to be booted. Look very close you may see the picture of the computer in the background. If so, your backlight circuit is probably broken somewhere. Either a bad connector on the logicboard, or bad/blown component in the path. This will also sound mean, but if you don't know what tools you need to get the case opened, Chances are you won't be able to repair the issue as it will most likely require micro soldering a replacement piece onto it. And if you do it wrong you essentially kill any chances of repairing the board. but, This is a good kit that will get you into almost any electronic. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y2N568J?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
Yes you can use an adapter and regular m.2 ssd. Your OS must be at least OS Sierra or newer for it to recognize the drive. Some people say there have been issues coming out of hibernate with using non apple ssd. I’ve not had any issues personally on my 2013. I used Sintech NGFF M.2 nVME SSD Adapter Card for Upgrade MacBook Air(2013-2016 Year) and MacBook PRO(Late 2013-2015 Year) (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FYY3H5F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_TE585D7Y4XGPEMQDQ5MX
The link is for the 512GB one but there's multiple options on the page.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FF1Y32Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_0WH70TW5BM6HTJBKS1FH
Also, you can boot into MacOS online recovery by holding Option-Command-R when you turn it on. That'll download and install the latest OSX version.
I’ve had a few iFixit kits, and while the non-screwdriver stuff is nice, they really cheaped out with their bits. We had to replace our commonly used bits every 45 days because they wear down and become eager to strip screws. A little while ago we bought a pile of Wiha bits and replaced all the ones we could in the iFixit kits, and we’re never going back. Something like this would get you a good selection of bits for working on most macbooks: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071D4CKXN/
The iFixit kits are great, don’t get me wrong, but for the way we use them, the bits just fall way short. For reference, I probably average about three Topcase replacements a day. It’s a lot more use than most people will put their bits / screwdrivers through.
Yep, that's the 850 which should be fine, this is the 820 we normally carry.
These are direct fit, no adapters, directly comparable to the OWC Aura's.
Never had any issues with sleep/hibernation, and like I say out of all the 820s we've fitted we've only ever had one of them back in again and the issues turned out to be nothing to do with the drive.
Make sure you're running a fully updated High Sierra or newer on the original SSD before you swap over so that the latest firmware updates are installed.
Ok
I found this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Transcend-TS480GJDM850-Jetdrive-850-Internal/dp/B07DCFNDPK?th=1&psc=1
It looks like direct fit for Macbooks rather than needing any other plug ins or components. Are these literally a direct competitor of OWC SSD’s?
No, the 2012 MBP uses a standard sata SSD but in a very proprietary form factor. I know for the PCIE ssds (late 2013 and onward) can use a simple adapter, but I'm not 100% sure on the new ones.
I found this which should do what you want. Then you can find an m.2 sata ssd and it should work fine. Try to find one that's the 2280 form factor.
If the title says pcie or nvme then the drive won't work.
Try amazon smile to donate to a charity of your choice automatically at no cost to you!
https://smile.amazon.com/Samsung-250GB-Internal-MZ-76E250B-AM/dp/B07864WMK8
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Apple SSDs are conveniently just barely longer than the standard 2280 size m.2 ssds. So with these adapters they just perfectly fit.
I don't have any amazon UK link, but here's a similar one to what I ordered.
I don't recommend the ones that are a board the entire length of the SSD since my friend got one and it was really annoying to mount and the PCB was bent when installed because it was slightly too long.
Is it as simple as replacing the unibody screws with a third party on Amazon? This seems way past that considering the screws left in my MacBook are too small for the holes somehow
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Got this one which I use on airs pros etc
Is this keyboard the right one? https://www.amazon.com/COMMAND-MAC-PARTS-Keyboard-English/dp/B00ZYYAOTO
Would this took kit, that I already have, have enough tools in it to do the job? https://www.amazon.com/Computer-Yougai-Precision-Screwdriver-Smartphone/dp/B06XBZ3VT1/ref=sr_1_15?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1526255044&sr=1-15&keywords=smartphone+tools
This is the cable I bought from Amazon with pretty decent reviews...I do not believe it was made from China. I've also ran tests to check on the HDD and so far it's seems to be good.
When I run the AHT, it always gets stuck while testing the logicboard though.