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I designed some awesome macro adapters for Nikon and Minolta lenses. Check it out and print your own: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:621794
I also made this cool video with them: https://youtu.be/D8-BCeOGRiQ
Those would work for a cheapish Start, I used them for a first macro setup. There is a little wiggle, but they get the job done dirt-cheap.
I had to look it up! A K mount... never heard of it. I guess there were some rumors that Laowa was going to stop making the k mount? Anyway, this is the other macro I have. Best of luck and have fun!! https://www.amazon.com/Venus-Laowa-100mm-Pentax-Camera/dp/B09QQFLDX4
In these 2-3 weeks that I picked up my camera, I started with just shooting in bright sunlight and after about a week I bought a Godox TT600 , with the included little diffusor that mounts on with an elastic band.
Its just a single pin flash, so fully manual. Usually I leave it at 20mm zoom and 1/16 power, and adjust power from there as needed.
The album is vaguely chronological, I know the leafhopper(?) in picture 26/27 was the first day I got the flash. So most things before is just sunlight, most things after is with the flash.
Without any investment it will be tricky to do.
On the software side, there are some programs that can make stacks based on live view and autofocus. I have Helicon Focus that can do that. I'm sure that there are similar free software or try it on trial version.
There are also manual rails, like this(not the best example of affordable version I just own this one). It might be good enough for start. As for automatic rails there are also some cheaper options. I got second hand WeMacro rail few years ago. It works great and I pay for it around 120$.
I would wholeheartedly recommend getting a Raynox DCR-250 (which is like 70 bucks new on Amazon) and snap it on the front of your Sigma 105.
You will not be able to focus to infinity with it on, but suddenly you can focus in to like 2.5:1 with great quality. I use one myself (though I use a Canon 100mm) and have been very pleased with the results since I got it in 2013. Also snaps on or off in a couple of seconds unlike a teleconverter.
Note that you will need to use (a diffused) flash at these magnifications - there isn't enough light to be able to use small apertures without one.
If it is the em5 mark ii I have been using one for a little bit after coming from a Canon DSLR setup.
It is an awesome little camera. I just find it so neat lol. It makes my Canon cameras feel like dinosaurs. The grip is absolutely horrible though so invest in something to sort that out. I bought this one and now I don't get hand cramps every time I use the camera https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01164LUCU/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o01\_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Hey there!
If you want to get closer, you might want to consider this lens.
The lens above gives you 2.5-5x magnification, and you're currently working with 2.68 magnification with your current setup. (based on this website if i did the math right)
Hope that helps! Also, fantastic image. It's incredible sharp and in focus. =]
Edit: if you want to go even further, there are ways to connect a 10x microscope lens to a DSLR, but i never did enough research to figure it out lol.
my 6d mark ii (70m-200m lens) does this thing where half of focus point is blurry, for example if I were to take a portrait pic, everything from the ears back wouldnt be in focus, just the face. Can anyone help me with this? (I tried manual mode and auto mode but still its the same issue)
I bought it on amazon in a set. If I had it to do over I would buy the single lens bc I don’t really use the others. I’m going to try to add the link. Criacr (2020 New Version) 7 in 1 Phone Camera Lens, 210 °Fisheye Lens + 120 °Wide Angle + 25X Macro + 2X Telephoto + Star Lens + CPL + 6 Kaleidoscope Compatible with iPhone/Samsung/Google Pixel etc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083PY75J9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8kt7EbZBB6K83
No, I don't mind your asking at all. It wasn't very long ago I had no idea what they were either. I became more informed when I stumbled on to Allan Walls's explanation: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fwBunsqtqvY
He talks about the Nikon bellows but I have Sony gear. So I ordered a brand new bellows from Amazon. It works fine. There is a little clipping of the images at the corners on a full frame camera but that can be cropped out in Lightroom or filled in Photoshop. I think this is the one I bought:
So, basically, you attach your camera on one end and any lens you want on the other. It doesn't have to be a macro lens. Then, the more you extend the bellows, the greater the magnification. The catch? The more you extend the bellows the less light there is that reaches the sensor.
To get the kind of magnification you want, you can attach a microscope objective to the bellows instead of a lens. This requires an adaptor that I could get on eBay for less than $20. The basic objective that Allan Walls recommends in another video sells for less than $20. Using this method, you could get that fly eye captured for less than $100 in equipment.
I don't do insects. I'm more into pictures of metal objects. Contact me at if you'd like to see some samples taken by an amateur.
Steve
Putting a ten dollar extension tube on a 300 dollar lens on and off every day is good way to be shoppping for a new lens in six months. People say the air in between the camera and lens doesn't have a brand. That's true, but the electrical connectors do. If your electric contacts get overworn, then your lens might not focus, or expose correctly.
Another option is sell the 60 and get a used 100 mm, on a crop factor you'll be going from 90 to 150 ( effective focal length ) that'll help a lot more than extension tubes.
All that said I use a 25mm canon extension ring, and have had bad experiences with at least 3 different non canon brands
For focus stacking a 4 way thing like this
Cat 6 Ethernet Cable 50 ft (at a... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009SJ7UWU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share.
And a huge block of time and patience in post