What are /r/mazdaspeed3's favorite Products & Services?

From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

I just bought one of these https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B011NSX27A/ And downloaded an open source OBD reader app called AndrOBD. This works, but I don't know what I'm doing. Maybe I should try the 'Torque' app that seems popular, but what value do I look for exactly?

I used these for vacuum lines and they work great:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TAFUPRE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TAFAJ98?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

As for the recirc hose I can't really help.. I didn't have any issues since the cxracing charge piping I used has the BPV near the oem location. It shouldn't be too hard to find a similar diameter silicone charge tubing online. Not sure I would use any old radiator hose either; you wouldn't want it to collapse under vacuum.

On my 2011 Speed, I installed the foot well lighting kit. The dimmer rheostat took the place of the larger plug on the right. Part number is 0000-8F-L35 .

Amazon linky:

https://www.amazon.com/Mazda-Accessories-0000-8F-L35-Interior-Lighting/dp/B00331ULHU

Damn, the kit cost me 99 USD 4 years ago, it's over $150 now!

Their kids don't include pistons or rods. I just don't see a cost effective option for pistons and rods besides the amazon type kits.

https://www.amazon.com/Engine-Rebuild-Overhaul-Kit-FITS/dp/B07FCFDLMQ

Just didn't know if they were any quality at all. Every piston/rod combo I see for the car would be around $900.

Head Unit

Adapter for Wireless Carplay

I tried the Motocraft oil and it made it worse. This subreddit told me to try Redline 50205 and it solved mine almost completely. I only get the grind every 50 or so shifts.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002INJ69I/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.reddit.com/r/mazdaspeed3/comments/9xcfu0/13_ms3_shifting_issues/ (Towards the bottom they told me that the Ford oil is bad for 2011+ Mazda transmissions).

That's where I got it from :) I think I have the issue fixed I bought this module on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GXKRB2Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Tried to find OEM but had no luck. Looks like Mazda and the parts vendors just want you to buy the whole fan assembly. I was just wondering if the manual's connector diagrams are all backwards haha. The O2 sensor was labeled backwards too. It said to check terminals A / E for resistance but it was the complete opposite ones:

>Anybody had this issue and resolved it without getting a new transmission?

Of course - you can pickup a used one instead!

Jokes aside, if the transmission is exhibiting mechanical problems, then there's little that can be done to remedy the issue short of rebuilding the gearbox. I'm guessing your synchros aren't as healthy as they once were.

Given the severity of the decay, you may be able to achieve some usability by trying different oil.

Popular choice is Ford's XT-M5-QS: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NUES82

Just remember that it's not miracle juice or holy water, and it won't fix your broken gearbox. If it's some light grinding you're experiencing though, it may help you out.

Good luck!

Stock ones have the cartridge type; a popular choice is Wix:

https://www.amazon.com/WIX-Filters-57203-Cartridge-Metal/dp/B000C9TD1G

You can do a spin-on filter conversion if you like

https://edgeautosport.com/mazda-oem-spin-on-conversion-kit-mazdaspeed-3-2007-2009-mazdaspeed-6-2006-2007/

its the purge valve for the fuel tank evap system

I used this one before I had the AP

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B005NLQAHS&ved=2ahUKEwiT2bOL8r_4AhVJKkQIHQOYAC8QFnoECBMQAQ&usg=AOvVaw1ONartOzA3k6_M7aEGm3YB

NTK 24357 Oxygen Sensor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008Y3UWN0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2KHPS3D5EB96SD2P5S9K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

This is the cheapest one that works. Have it on my car and plenty of others have ran it without issues.

https://mazdaspeeds.org/index.php?threads/proven-parts-list-common-parts-that-dont-suck.4476/

Use this for other cheap parts that work

Cheap: Car Windshield Suction Cup Mount for COBB Tuning AccessPORT V3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IMJ2S1K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5REYW404SPVQYWG8SGTJ

The way: Dave’s AP Stiffy Mounts. Find him on Facebook. I used to have the Amazon mount but the Dave’s mounts are amazing. Won’t fall off and looks extremely clean.

Here you go.

HELLA 007424801 Twin Trumpet High/Low Tone 12V Horn Kit with Bracket, Red

Diffacutly wasnt too bad, but it does require a bit of work. First, i had to remove the front left tire and the lining to get to the horn. Then i had to make a new wiring harness for both horns. I also had to figure out a way to mouth both horns on a bracket that was only designed to mount a single horn. Truth be told, i wish the mount was more secure. But it works.

Here are some pics of the mounting, if that helps.

I know it's not the answer, but I've got one of these. I tried getting it into the top of the shock while it's in my car, but couldn't quite get access. Either way, this tool has helped me out on multiple occasions.

Nut & Bolt Thread Checker (Inch & Metric), Original Version (SWTC-26) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B003FJW0GK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_301FXFYD933MCZX2XZTG

Mine is like that. I got the little bumper quick-connects Amazon Canada Link

I put these in my gen 1 and would highly recommend them: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0777SY5BW/

I just replaced the front set and I'm still using the stock bose system. The difference is huge. I want the replace the rear some day too

I run power stops on my big turbo daily. Haven't had any issues or noises from them and they work/look great.

Power Stop K4056 Front and Rear Z23 Carbon Fiber Brake Pads with Drilled & Slotted Brake Rotors Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CPL9TUY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_9HQFJBB5S7KXY96DA62H?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

If you want to be 💯 sure it a gasket , use one of those tests that you attach to your coolant reservoir. You fill it with a chemical and it detects whether you are leaking exhaust fumes into your coolant. If the leak is bad enough sometimes you can see tiny bubbles rising up the reservoir.

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06VVBSFTF/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_7D5YPD118ZNDAPY7MA4H

https://www.amazon.com/GOOFIT-Degree-Yellow-Internal-Circlip/dp/B00Z0DQ04W/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?crid=1AO40Z9AYX2RW&keywords=circlip+pliers+90+degree&qid=1646164362&sprefix=circlip+pliers+90+degree%2Caps%2C812&sr=8-9

The kind of Pliers you need to remove the snap ring/circlip

Owning both a Mazda3 and a Mazdaspeed3, I try to avoid Mazda3 advertised parts for the Speed. I don’t mind the cheaper parts on the 3, but when it comes to the Speed3 I assume the same looking parts are often built to handle the increased wear/tear they might see with the Speed.

For lower control arms, I went with these.

For front and rear end links I just went OEM since they’re cheap enough.

Here is the link for the specific ones I got for my wheels:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DNPGMCE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I chose to just replace my AC Pully with the new front plate. Since it was just the pully bearing crunching and wobbling.

I saw no way of easily replacing the magnet because the connector is tucked behind it.

Nice! I plan to get one of these when time comes to swap mine out. Performance Tool W80621 3/8-Inch Drive Disc Brake Piston Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KO3F6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CF1201GBMESD1RYTKYWF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I removed the screw, and used a windshield washer fluid hose connector with some boost/vacuum tube (with a clamp/ziptie) to go where it needs to go (I forget) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QFL9N87/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_0AEX1CV0PJTQMYP7W9W7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Adjusting-Mazdaspeed-Hatchback-2006-2013-Turbocharged/dp/B07PRWTBKC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=1ZG0ISDJQOWLZ&keywords=10-064&qid=1639395708&sprefix=10-064+%2Caps%2C72&sr=8-3

yeah, so the way the stock shift boot works is there’s a plastic cylindrical piece that goes on the rod of the shifter first, then the shift boot goes on top of that rod also with a small hole at the top to fit over it, then the stock knob screws on and sandwiches the boot between the knob and plastic

the new knob didn’t have threading at the very bottom of the knob like the OEM one so to get it to thread on i took the plastic piece out which just made the boot not stay up

currently i’ve got one of these (double check the threading matches since i just grabbed a random link) and made my own shift boot with an opening big enough to fit around it perfectly. the stock boot has a much smaller opening so you might be able to cut it out to fit? but i don’t know and i didn’t bother as to not mess up my original knob plus boot combo

hope that kinda explained things, if you just untwist the shift knob you’ll be able to see a lot of what i’m describing as i’m at work and did the install a few months ago lol so not the best description

The is the gasket I bought and it worked great. I did not replace the studs and regretted it.

Mazda L3F2-13-490 Turbocharger Gasket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KWEQO7W/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_AM578V42B6HD9F412BTQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

this kit! worth it for the price imo but you will need to wire it yourself if you don't want to use the 12v accessory charger inside since that's what it comes with. I ran it to a fuse tap off my headlights so they're only on when my lights are on

This is the one i got. the Non "XP" is what i would say is the 'normal' size, though it was slightly smaller than the one that came with my car, which was a mopar one i think.

Never seen an oil filter come shrink wrapped, to be honest. I ordered my Wix filter through Amazon as well and it came as yours did, minus the cosmetic damage.

I purchased the bigger one, personally. More oil!

I've been totally happy with my Rola rack and it's held up great for years: https://www.amazon.com/59832-Removable-Anchor-Xtreme-AP-GTX/dp/B004R35CUE/ref=psdc_347985011_t1_B004R31XY8

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But if it's a gift you might want to go with the more expensive Yakima/Thule option

There are tools, there's a kit I bought off Amazon that holds the cams in the correct spot and there's a little bolt on the back of the engine you take out and put in a little pin that holds the crank in the correct position.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F0WWZA6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glc_fabc_PJ2S0DH73Q9DMXR9D9Y2

This is basically the same one I have. The big piece slides into the slots on the cams and the pin obviously goes into the block and you rotate the crank by hand until it hits the pin.

But I will agree with you on difficulty because timing my IS300 was so easy I had absolutely no experience working on cars at the time aside from changing a battery once and I was still able to time it right using forums and YouTube tutorials.

https://www.amazon.com/Arkon-Windshield-iPhone-Galaxy-Retail/dp/B00H89MLLM/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=Arkon+Windshield+Dash+Smartphone+Car+Mount+for+Apple+iPhone+6+Plus%2F6%2F5%2F5S%2F5C%2C+Samsung+Galaxy+Note%2FEdge%2F4%2F3%2F2%2FS5%2FS4%2FFire&qid=1607193845&sr=8-5

allows you to put the accesport mount onto it's clip been running this for years works wonders.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V8LCNNK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_IcQXFb8ZG2TQS I just got an AP too and bought this magic mount. I'm planning on mounting it on the windshield, next to the a-pillar. It's a strong magnet and holds onto the AP strong.

Here’s the head unit (basically plug and play):

Car Radio Mazda 3 2004-2009... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0822FQ4CY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Here’s the thing you need to enable wireless Apple car play:

Carlinkit Autokit.apk+Wireless... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S1M8C34?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I use this. Super strong and you can remove it if needed. I've been using it for 5 years now. I've only had to reapply once and within the last month. Only reason it failed was I hit it with my elbow.

I originally bought this bearing after a long search: Santech Industries MT2021 Air Conditioning Clutch Bearing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049PI5W2 but realized my pulley was rusted to crap and not worth pressing a new bearing into. Then I ordered https://edgeautosport.com/mazda-oem-a-c-compressor-clutch-pulley-mazdaspeed-3-2009-mazdaspeed-6-2006-2007/ and it worked out great on my 2007.

Holy shit I just typed ‘relay’ into amazon and it brought up the relay you need to use under a buy it again option for me.

Directed Electronics 8616 Relay Assembly Mini https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CJ05WW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WkeiFbPR0P2W5

Dm me and I can send you a pic of at least one side of the connections and help you figure out the other

Yes you can. I replaced my stock radio with a double din Kenwood receiver. There is an dash kit made by Metra that comes with the cubby you are talking about as well as mounts for the lcd display. Basically the little plastic tabs bolt onto the side of lcd display and uses the lower vent mounting screws to secure it.

You will lose function of the clock, mpg, and radio display but the HVAC will still work.

Here is the kit on Amazon

I had to replace the drivers side door lock actuator on my 2011. A hook and pick set is very handy. amazon linky

Well they don't know their parts very well. One that fits a regular 3 will also fit the speed3. I ordered one on Amazon 2 years ago. Part # 0000-8M-L30A. Fits perfect and works great.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CNCMN7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_eU5TEbT1G828Y

I'm not sure if this is what you are referring to or not, but here is the sunshade I bought for my 2011 Speed 3. It fits perfectly:

https://www.amazon.com/Intro-Tech-MA-48-Custom-Windshield-Sunshade/dp/B007Y58GV4/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Mazda%7C80&Model=3%7C2435&Year=2011%7C2011&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=2&vehicleType=aut...

Foseal Bluetooth OBD Code Reader, Car Diagnostic Tool OBD2 Scanner Adapter for Android Devices, Wireless OBD II Car Scan Tool, Check Engine Light Code Reader, Not Fit iOS/iPhone/iPad, Blue/Mini https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T5G53ZM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qf2nBbDJFEKX4