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Based off visible light spectrum, no, the change in lighting will send your deviation through the roof. However, if you combine readings from visible light, near ultraviolet, and infrared sensors, you can characterize the frequencies and make a crude spectrum analyzer. Sparkfun makes a cheap spectral analyzer module if you feel inclined to tackle this problem yourself.
7000 series alloys are not heat resistant, and even short exposures at 400F will overage them and degrade properties. I agree with the Kona rep.
Looking at "Properties of Aluminum Alloys: Tensile, Creep, and Fatigue Data at High and Low Temperatures", 7005-T53 (this looks like the heat treat condition used based on the info provided in your other post) will lose strength in a couple minutes at 400F. Depending on the cure cycle length, it could lose 10-20% of its strength during this process. 350F is OK to a few minutes, while 300F is OK to maybe a couple hours.
The applicable page from the above book can be seen at Google Books.
Like one of these things?
As long as it's actually stainless steel and not just a chrome plated cheap thing, then yes it would be fine to cook with.
Like everyone else I'm going to guess Pewter, cause of the P stamp. If you're concerned it could be the lead-containing type, you can get lead testing pens to detect the presence of lead.
Far too many variables for confident predictions. Standard measures of the durability of materials depend on highly defined parameters that allow for purely relative predictions (i.e., in general steel lasts longer than brass), but the exact conditions any piece of metal experiences is what ultimately determines its fate.
May not address your specific concerns, but the book "Rust: the Longest War" by Jonathan Waldman might be of interest. See: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LD1MLYI
Yes. That will reduce the melting point and give more time for liquid metal to fill the mold. However, this will still be almost impossible without forcing the metal into the mold, such as in die casting.
Cold rolling, or just buying 2mm Cu sheet is for sure the way to go if you do not have a die casting setup.
So would something like this work to add to the aluminum? I responded to someone else, but the cans are a waste product at this point that I can turn into something useful. This isn't a professional operation, just a fun hobby. If it doesn't work, I'll sell the cans and buy some cast scrap.
If you can get your hands on one, some of the older editions of "The Making Shaping and Treating of Steel" (the main volume, not the supplements) have some really nice history on iron and steelmaking. I think this is the correct volume for the 10th edition:
https://www.amazon.com/Making-Shaping-Treating-United-Corporation/dp/0930767004
There's also some nice metallurgy in this volume and the others, although some of the other volumes certainly get more complex.
I found this source which mentions arsenic for hardening castings....
"The castings which are to be treated may be completely finished as regards machine work before they are hardened. The casting is first heated to a " cherry-red " heat; it is then dipped in a bath which consists of a practically anhydrous acid of high heat-conducting power, preferably sulphuric acid of a specific gravity of from 1.8 to 1.9, to which is added a suitable quantity of one or more of the heavy metals or their compounds — such, for example, as arsenic or the like. The preferable ingredients of the bath are sulphuric acid of a specific gravity of approximately 1.84 and red arsenic in the proportions of f pound of red arsenic crystals to 1 gallon of sulphuric acid. The castings may be either suddenly dipped in the afore-mentioned mixture and then taken out and cooled in water, or they may be left in the bath until cool."
I googled some sources when looking for bone dust...
The other method I forgot to mention found in the prints was cyanide, which I assume is cyanide of potassium?
This source also mentions cyanide, lead baths, salt peter and fish oil.
"A nickel shaft steel of this character goes through a sixstep process. First, the end forming a bearing is heated to 1,450 degrees in a lead bath; this done, it is hung 20 minutes in a cyanide of potassium bath to carbonize it; and, thirdly, this end is dipped in an oil bath until cold. This is half the process. The fourth step is placing it in a furnace and heating the shaft all over to a temperature of 1,400 degrees, which is the magnet point, namely that point at which all magnetism ceases. Step five consists in taking it out of the furnace and dipping the bearing end in oil until the remainder of the shaft is a dark red; and sixth, the entire shaft is immersed in oil and allowed to cool.
Treating Nickel Steel Shafts A nickel steel shaft in treatment is heated to above the magnet point, 1,400 degrees; it is then dipped in oil; it is next transferred to a saltpeter bath to draw to a temperature of 450 degrees, which toughens the metal, and then is finally cooled. Fish oil is used for ordinary casehardening and low-carbon steel work, and cotton seed oil for the final dipping of nickel steel parts. Annealing is by heating steel to a given temperature and allowing it to cool very slowly..."
3m abrasive pads i think are pretty common. Their very fine i think it's the dark red color.
Called helping hands. Here is one on amazon but I know harbor freight has them, probably radio shack too if you’ve got one (are they still around?) https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-01902-Adjustable-Magnifying-Alligator/dp/B000P42O3C/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=helping+hands+soldering&qid=1577040686&sprefix=helping+hands&sr=8-3
If you are looking for a little more info on basic solidification and phase transformation phenomena you could also look at Porter, Easterling, and Sherif.
I am not familiar with this book myself, but the most recent Amazon review looks pretty good:
>"This book is a bit long in the tooth, but most of the basic metallurgical material that it covers is just as timely as when it was written, about 40 years ago. It starts with atomic structure, chemical bonding and chapters on aspects of thermodynamics. Then there are chapters devoted to; steels, phase diagrams, crystal structures, mechanical properties, deformation, oxidation, corrosion, electronic properties and uses of metals. The material covered is basic and most suitable for an introductory metallurgy course. Additional, more advanced, texts are therefore required for more in-depth treatments of the topics that are covered. Professor Cottrell wrote with clarity, making this is a great text for a first course in metallurgy. There are many more recent texts on this subject, which for the most part have been modeled on the original version of this book - even after 40 years this book hold its own with them. The book is also a good choice for a mechanical, civil or electrical engineer who wishes to learn more about the basics of metallurgy."