What are /r/mpminidelta's favorite Products & Services?

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nope I got this set from amazon, they are a perfect fit. since Nozzles are a consumable I can't imagine that voiding a warranty.

Its really simple. You can get a Raspberry Pi model 3 (no need for the 3+) for 36 bucks on amazon
Then the install/setup process is a step by step guide

My machine would only read Non-HC (high capacity). I found some 2G on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-microSD-Memory-SDC-2GB/dp/B0015R2NUW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1542570561&sr=8-5&keywords=micro+sd+card+non+hc

Yes and no.

The printer really doesn't like anything bigger that 2gigs.

Try formatting it as either fat16, or (probably less likely to work) as fat32.

I know where you can get another guaranteed to work card: Monoprice has then from around $180.00 (US). But, they come with a free Delta Mini! :-). (ha!)

2gig cards might hard to find. 1 gig cards might be easier.

It looks like Amazon might have them though. Sandisk microSD 2GB memory card https: //www.amazon.com/dp/B000HCGAFK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0838Bb29E5Q4V

What you want is a Raspberry pi. I use the model 3. Along with the power supply and a webcam it was like $60 from Amazon - maybe less. Anyway, get that, print out a case from thingiverse (or leave it out in the open), and download the image here: http://octoprint.org/download/.

Follow the 5 step instructions on that page and you're done. It's really easy and if you're a developer, this will be nothing for you.

You can buy plenty of 3d printers, set them up and go, but they're going to be more expensive than the delta. Most printers are going to need some amount of fiddling with though

HC cards will work, but it seems like the luck of the draw. My current one is a Kingston 8GB. But my primary MiniD is one of the batch 1 models, still on the original firmware with no mods except terminal connectors for the print bed to make it easy to remove for changing the Kapton tape.

OP: you can find the "official" SD card formatter from https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter_4/ a lot of printer users have better luck with it. Or, optionally do a format with 4k cluster size.

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Thanks for the feedback on the power supply. Looks like my issue was poor ventilation before the issue became the power supply. I ordered one of these to attach to a better power supply, which I may not need - but i have it in case! I read on the size which isn't common - none of the power supplied I could find around the house matched it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DYQMQFB

Hey I had to backburner this for like a month due to other projects taking precedence but I sat down with it today, and after following your calibration guide, my test print had almost no issues. A beautiful raft, no delamination, no cotton-candy wispy infill, no loud bumping or dragging of the hot end onto the printer bed, a perfectly uniform first layer, and a layer grain that is almost imperceptible despite being 0.14mm. There's still some irregularities in the print, but i suspect these are owing to my glass disc sliding a little bit on the print bed rather than due to calibration issues, so I'll be fixing that to the print bed next.

I just remembered, I also replaced the extruder with one of these (the red one): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TWK8FRN/ and I replaced the bowden tube with this Capricorn tubing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BHVWNWK/

1. The stock SD card is hot counterfeit garbage. If it was a good SD card, it would not have randomly stopped working, so get this whole idea that it is okay out of your head. Maybe you can buy more time with it reformatting, maybe not.
2. Mac sucks at formatting SD cards, so regardless of what path you take, you will eventually need to use a real SD card formatting tool instead of using anything you didn't have to download yourself.
3. Always format FAT32.
4. Byte allocation matters...a lot. Try 512 for cards <= 4 GB, otherwise just keep trying different allocations until one works.
5. Way easier to just buy a known working SD card. Assuming you live near a Walmart, someone else has already given you a quick option.

Dunno what's up for you, but my (barely) used mini had an extruder gear that was smooth as a baby's head. I bought a replacement that gave me a new gear and the block that presses the bear on it and holds the boden tube fitting.

Original has a shaped "gear" and flat bearing. Replacement has a flat gear and shaped bearing. The gear is seriously aggressive, teeth are sharp to the touch.

Its been working like a champ ever since.

Now I can hang the roll on the back like intended and use normal temps.

Before (original gear) I had to put the roll in line with the extruder on rollers and use high temps to get it to feed properly, and if the filament was tangled? Wrecked print.

Not it can be all jumbled and the the extruder just drags it thru with no fucks given.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TWK8FRN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_E1NYXP6WATWXRP2MBR79?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Original screws will be too short, supplied screws are too long, but otherwise its a perfect fit.

My suggestion based on just doing this replacement for the case fan...

Noctua Fan

This fan comes with 2 low-noise adapters which make the fan even quieter than the default setting (which is considerably quieter than a brand new stock mpmd case fan)

3-to-2 pin fan adapter

I had to use something small and metal to pop the pins out on the 2-pin side and swap them as I read online they are reversed.

I got mine off of amazon. Same size, easy to put on, feels more durable.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HFPS9H2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

So the amazon listing you found I wouldn’t recommend. The connector you need is M6, and you are getting 10 of them, but you are also getting 10 M10 connectors and PTFE tubing. The tubing is probably of questionable quality and the M10 connectors wont work at all. You can get it but just know that more than half of what you are paying for you probably can’t/shouldn’t use, and since the thing as a whole is so cheap the bowden connectors might be just as fragile as stock. If you really want to splurge I’d recommend capricorn tubing and bowden connectors, they are great quality. This is the link, and although it comes with 2 of the things you can’t use, the capricorn tubing is a great upgrade.

As for the wiki I think I actually heard that in a video so I can’t find it. I’ll edit with thingiverse link If I do though.

The printer stops heating the bed to its max when it begins to heat the nozzle. Cura may be interpreting this as an error when you're tethered. I'd recommend investing in a Kingston 2GB SD Amazon Kingston 2GB Micro SD card card, the printer won't read high capacity SD cards. This one is recommended on the wiki. I had a similar problem working tethered in simplify3d. The SD card use eliminated my error.

You can get an inexpensive Battery backup to plug the printer into if your home has power fluctuations that could cause the print to stop. I run an 400VA APC UPS like the one at the link below on my printers.

https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-Back-UPS-BE425M/dp/B01HDC236Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=apc+ups+425&amp;qid=1570291301&amp;sprefix=apc+ups+425&amp;sr=8-3

Other than that, restart the print or measure the print and re-slice the portion that didn’t print and break out the glue.

I put a glass ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075B1R9YZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 ) over my bed with clips. Will I get faster heating with the stock pad removed?

>... I just reenter it and it stays.

Have you tried using some 3M double sided tape on the sides to improve adhesion? Just those three small strips hold that thing down like an anchor.

Very much the same story here - after the part cools, it just comes off (takes some adjustment, of course). You can have it on the MPMD for pretty cheap: Glass ; Tape

Sorry, I meant PEI, here's the exact plate I bought: Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet Round 110 mm Diameter with 3M 468MP Adhesive for Monoprice MP Mini Delta 3D Printer, Made in The USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FB6CXS4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sL2pCbAQMF309

Yeah, there can be a big temperature difference. An upgraded power supply can help with this too as the one provided with the printer can only heat the bed so much, I think it tops out at ~60° with the extruder running. I haven't done that upgrade yet and I'm not very comfortable with electrical things to provide a link to an adequate product.

I don't know that it's an upgrade, but I'm replacing the hotend.

I over tightened the nozzle and it snapped, so the heat block and nozzle are stuck together (trash, effectively). I bought a new hotend for $12.50, V6 J-Head, and I've been using another 3D printer to print a new interface of my own design; a circular collar for the heatsink that then mates to the 3 screw holes on the effector plate. I'm (finally) at the point where I can test the interface, but now I've got some other problem with an endstop, so we'll have to wait for that to clear up before I can run test prints and upload to thinigiverse.

The design process has been frustrating. It feels pretty damn impossible to line up the third screw hole; The effector plate, in case you haven't taken a look, is like so:

_______________ | | | O | | _______ | | | | | | | | | | O | | O | | | | | | |____| | |____________|

And I've been able to line up the two sides but not the middle one. Which... is... fine? Seems stable enough with just the two. I'm also having trouble fitting the heater block (with silicone sock) in the cavity. So far the nozzle protrudes, but not enough to put me at ease.

Thanks for the answer, I am unfamiliar with TL smoothers, is there a guide for how to install them on this printer? Would something like this work in regards to the vibration dampeners? What size fan is on the underside?

Also have you done any other mods for yours?

THIS HERE:
https://www.amazon.com/Gizmo-Dorks-Diameter-Adhesive-Monoprice/dp/B07FB6CXS4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1534458265&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Gizmo+Dorks+Pei+sheet+110mm+round

Dude, this was the best 13 bucks I've ever spent. No adhesion additives required. Prints pop right off without a exacto or basically any effort.

Good work on getting it to stick otherwise!

Ditch the clips and use a thin thermal pad. Double sided tape will work fine until your pad arrives. The one I linked is big enough that you'll have an extra one. I trimmed mine to the size of the existing build plate. An easy way to remove the build tac is to heat up the bed and scrape it off with a razor blade. With a thermal pad and mirror my bed vs glass bed temps are ~5c different.

I picked up several 5" mirrors from Joann's yesterday, and thought to also pick up a can of Tacky Spray (https://www.amazon.com/Aleenes-Purpose-Tacky-Adhesive-11-Ounce/dp/B001689P10). The tacky spray has enough grip to hold the mirror to the printing bed, and also appears to create a great grippy surface for my prints. I just sprayed a bit over the top of the mirror, let it sit for 15 mins (during initial warm up) and it works great so far. I've done 4 prints without having to re-spray it, and the prints still release just fine.

FYI: I ended up ordering theses:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01J3BB000/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

They're slightly longer than the original, but work great. No changes are needed to use them, though the extra length will take a few mm off the max Z height.

If you plan on maxing out the Z height, change setting in your slicer from 120mm to 117.

Not really much you can do wrong, it should give you output saying the values are set after running the M92 command and then after running M500 it should report that it saved the settings to memory. You may need to powercycle afterwards, though.

There could also be some flex in the metal bed, you might try a glass bed overlay. Some people get the 5" mirrors from Michael's for $.99, or you can get a nice borosilicate glass bed from Amazon for $12.99.

Try something like this Silicone Thermal Pad for CPU GPU Heatsink.

You'll probably want to remove the build material ("BuildTak" stuff) before using the silicone thermal pad. The pad may not stick too well if left on.

You should need to add anything to the starting script but you will need to remember that your max height will be reduced by the thickness of the whatever is added to the bed surface.

I don't know how to fix it and it's driving me crazy... this is my 1st 3d printer and I have a ton of stuff I want to do...

My prints stuck way too well also. I think in part because it was too smushed down on the front. I quickly ruined the bed trying to use a razor to remove the prints. I now have a mylar sheet (extra from work) on the bed, and after scuffing with a scotchbrite pad and cleaning with IPA, that works beautifully at least with PLA.

Also buy a decent removal tool like a palette knife. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1

Probably best to just go with a 4.5" square and trim it to fit. The smallest round size they offer is 6.5", which will be way too big.

https://www.amazon.com/BuildTak-Printing-Build-Surface-Square/dp/B00MN5X4RQ