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There’s actually a tool for that. Or just do what I and probably the majority of us do and use a pry bar or something to walk it off. Spray it with penetrating lube, will make life easier.
Both.
Best case scenario (after sitting for 5 years) you're looking at replacing the entire suspension, namely the struts and springs since the struts will be completely drained of liquid, and the springs will be rusted out.
The brake lines in this car are rubber, so those will need to be replaced (I recommend these stainless steel lines).
The exhaust will be rusted out, and if the car has never been undercoated I would presume the frame and body will have rust as well. You could bondo the body, but the frame will have to be welded depending on the damage.
I would also check for corrosion on the cables since all the electrical is copper. Battery terminals and exposed crimps will practically turned to dust.
What surprises me the most, however, is how good condition the paint is considering the weather exposure. The gaskets around the windows and pillar trims seem relatively undamaged. The eyebrows are cracked, but those can be replaced with 3d printed stuff or you can just cut some rubber to fit where they went.
Honestly I wouldn't be worried about the engine or the transmission having any damage from sitting, but it wouldn't hurt to crack both open and check them out. The main things I would look at are the rear main seal and the valve cover gasket. I would also drain all the fluids and completely refill them.
All that being said, none of these things are particularly difficult if you have the right resources.
I looked for a stock manual but I couldn't find one.
If the metal hasn't rusted completely through, you might want to try some rust reformer. If it's rusted through, sheet metal and MIG is likely the best option.
Give this a try: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/239083330307347/
I would've got these already for myself if I'm not half a galaxy away :p
Yeahhhh seems like we’re in the same boat. I found a wire harness on Amazon that sounds like it would fix that problem and of course it was after I spent 3 hours reconfiguring the OEM wiring. I’ll link it below. I did change out the female end of the H4 plug with new ones bc mine looked rough. I wired mine for all leds on when lights are turned on. And when I flip on my high beams they turn off. For me this is my summer car and in AK it’s light 24 hours a day so not a huge concern to me. Just when they’re on I feel like an asshole bc ik they’re bright af.
Here’s that wiring harness:
Universal H4 9003 Relay Harness conversion kit Complete with Ceramic Sockets H6054 H5054 H6054LL 6014 6052 6053 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085N87SR3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2XD67JRS4QY65NBGVMPF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The wheels comes staggered stock because they want to make the car as safe as possible.
From everything I've read and experienced, if we're talking just about handling, you want the tires to be staggered based on the weight distribution of the car.
For reference, my car has had bc coilovers and st sway bars.
My mr2 is 43f/57r weight and for years I had 205/225 for years and had to set the rear coilovers to 100% soft, and front almost 100% soft to get a good balance.
I went to 205/235 and I was able to set both the front and rear dampening to around the middle. Going around a steady state corner, all 4 wheels start to lose grip at the same time, so neutral handling. That changes when accelerating or braking in a turn,
But overall I've spent about 10 years tweaking the suspension to where it is very predictable and always does exactly what I want.
If you're looking into suspension tuning, I highly recommend a book called "high-performance handling for street or track". Also "toyota mr2 performance"
For longer term storage, you probably want to get an automatic float charger. It'll handle all the plugging/unplugging/maintenance automatically so you don't have to do it. It'll just work.
As for starting the car, it's probably a good idea to warm it up now and then. Keep those fluids moving and cycled
Four Seasons 26750 O-Ring & Gasket Air Conditioning System Seal Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C2M8NI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YW59PP7DE8041N28RYRT this is identical what I used. I dont know your car year so make sure you add that to make sure it fits.
It's not everyone's cup of tea as it were, but my roommate has a Miata and bought these off of Amazon. The output on them is impressive, and I knew once I got my MR2 I would want LEDs, so I ordered a pair off of ebay last week similar to these. I have yet to get them installed on the MR2, as the car came with a ripped off battery terminal and a blown motor, but the similar Miata set made a world of difference, and these have good ratings so I trust that they will be a good upgrade for seeing, and arguably more importantly, being seen.
The other route could be an H4 housing conversion with a set of the newer LED H4 bulbs that have been coming out, to date though I have only seen them brought up in a video.
I've seen this one on Amazon. I've ordered a can to do some touch up in the trunk to convert up where I need to clean up dinner surface rust. I haven't tried it yet to see if it matches.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00407TW5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_RW8S0XYV0YF9QH17R6J5
there are kinda 2 schools of thought on the piston ring/pre-cat issues... chicken and the egg-ish scenario, really. the piston rings were definitely redesigned on the later models, and they aren’t known to have the precat issue as much... so go figure.
just gut your pre-cats, or install a new header, if you like. then drain whatever is in the sump and give it a fresh fill of Castrol Edge Euro 0W30 or another high-quality fully synthetic oil and change it regularly and check it often.
k-swap is in vogue now, but at 20k miles it sounds like you have an unmolested specimen on your hands and i would try to keep it as original as best you can.
congrats to you! cheers.
Only the right motor mount needs to come off.
But be ready to figure out how to torque the crank bolt. I ended up buying one of these
MR2 lyfe!
But my old girl has leaked for going on 11 years so far since ive had her. Shes had to sit a little more for reasons recently and i noticed a small bit of mold for the first time. Fuck that. Got the killer out, been airing her out any chance i get until this bomb gets in. Ive been dealing with it for long enough glances over at oem seals in the box behind me
Muahahaha
Single din cup holder and tray if you have an aftermarket single din radio.
Just want to throw out there the Sony XAV series (I have the AX100) and they're amazing because of all the CarPlay features and the physical controls you can use (volume, skip, etc) even if the display is showing say, Google Maps. Feels very OEM.
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-XAV-AX100-Android-Receiver-Bluetooth/dp/B01MF9W0GU
what you need is some genuine Honda Shin-etsu grease. my seals are still ok for now but I have hears that this can rejuvenate old seals.
https://www.amazon.com/Honda-Genuine-Shin-Etsu-Grease/dp/B006Z9TZ9M
If you're in the US, Harbor Freight has some cheap sets that work just fine (I've had my set for years, no problems). Otherwise Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/KINGLAKE-Panel-Removal-Radio-Installer/dp/B00HNMLQAG/
If you mess up, the worst that happens is you break some plastic clips that are cheap to replace (but a pain to find the right size unless you can get the original Toyota ones)
I got them from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V6F543Q?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
The picture is a little deceiving. There are still some dim spots but it's hard to tell unless you really stare. I think this is unavoidable. GL
A lot of 90a GM cars had single DIN cup holders that will slot in above or below your stereo. Here's one on Amazon that's not very well reviewed, but it gives you an idea of what to look for.
Here's a video that looks okay
You need an electric soldering iron (no butane), and solder (preferably with flux/rosin core). Make sure the iron doesn't touch the green/yellow board and only the silver part.
Tin the tip of the soldering iron (Touch the solder to the tip before touching the iron to the pin). And do NOT touch the iron when it's hot, so make sure to get an iron with a stand. Something like this would be okay if you want to keep it cheap.
I've used Cerakote on the headlights on my Blob STI. It's been 2 years and still holding up.
That should work. Keep in mind you'll also need hub centering rings to adapt those wheels 67.1mm center bore to the MR2's 54.1mm, as well as aftermarket lug nuts with the proper type of taper or seat.
Whole set of Gorilla tuner lugs for $30. Any wheel lock key/spline key is designed to be used with hand tools only, power/air tools will cause them to break.
I just did this job on my 88 NA. I used this compressor: https://www.amazon.com/Compressor-Clutch-Toyota-1985-1990-Replaces/dp/B07C3B2BHJ/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B07C3B2BHJ&psc=1. I'm pretty sure that one won't work.
For Toyota MR2 1985 1986 New Pair Rear KYB Excel-G Shocks Struts - BuyAutoParts 77-61445AO New https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L4821ZK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_740BTYRE5EXD50SN3CD2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
For Toyota MR2 1985-1989 New Pair Front KYB Excel-G Shocks Struts - BuyAutoParts 77-61439AO New https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L48BVGB/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_8D21KRD2PNEAVSGGM2AN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I bought these small stickers on Amazon that say “This vehicle equipped with GPS tracking” and stuck them on my two front windows. They aren’t pretty but that’s the point. They are obvious and no one is gonna want to risk stealing a car that will be tracked.
Also put gps tracking on it and hid an apple AirTag on it somewhere hard to get as backup. It also resides in a garage but I mostly got the stickers and trackers for when I park in public. It also has a viper alarm that notifies me from a mile away if someone touches my car. Lol.
4 MINI GPS Vehicle Car Alarm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0125KKT9E?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Not sure if you've got the space but I think you do if you can fit those in. You want something like this. I used the same 2 that you're showing for years and when neither worked on my small ass miata filter I got one of these puppies and I haven't had a problem with getting a filter off since.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BS5B3ZQ/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
The one I bought works fine, wish it was a little shorter tho. Either way I’m happy it finally pops out lol. Here’s the link if anyone needs it. Dorman 47208 Fuel Door Spring... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O02K2M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Looks good!! I took the center panel off mine, cleaned it up with some dish soap and a brush, then I used this plastic restored to get it nice and black. I did it about 2.5 years ago and it still looks great!
I did to my 87, so a slightly different process than yours. Just make sure what ever glue you use hardens clear, if it’s any type of shade yellow it will show. As for bulbs I used Sylvania amber LED’s for the turn signals and a white for the revers. I also did the full clear lens kit and used the same amber turns up front for the bumper lights and amber 194 leds for the side markers. I didn’t want to see any type of amber showing behind the lens which I why I chose that style of bulb.
Thank you! Is this the type of fitting you're imagining: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-800-202-High-Compression-Union/dp/B00HFHDQFC/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B00HFHDQFC&psc=1 ?
Unfortunately I do not have any with the new wheels as of yet. I've been super busy lately and this is all I have. But, there is a picture on the shop's Instagram if you'd like to see that. Not the greatest quality but it's something. https://www.instagram.com/p/9eWZf_GSXJ/ and http://i.imgur.com/l01jnAv.jpg
I'm also trying to find a nice location to take a good shot. I'm hoping that I can find some time tomorrow to get some pics in. I'll definitely be updating this as time goes on!
You could probably replace it with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0751G6TMV/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glc_fabc_5DPW6980MP937GEHW0VS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
But based on what I'm reading from your other comments, you probably wanna focus on taking as much from all over the car. The perfect balance for cornering is 50/50, 1/99 for accelerating, so a car that does both (any car) is gonna want to be somewhere between those 2. Its a sliding scale depending on how much you want to track it vs. go to the drag strip. Based on your other comment saying yes drag strip maybe track racing I would think you want to evenly remove weight to keep the balance the same, or remove it from the front to bias it more rearward and help your acceleration.
Yeah I realize a turbo and an engine swap is are completely different ballgames, just thought I'd throw it out there. I did take a picture of the missing hose in your picture pic I am not super knowledgeable so im not sure what it is but yeah I would guess something air related as it does turn towards the front.
It’s pricey but I went with these JW Speaker 8900 Evo 2 and these Switching Modules and I love it. It was pretty plug and play. The lights sit the slightest bit deeper than stock but the little metal ring around it just doesn’t sit perfectly flush, otherwise perfect. They are on par with light output from modern cars with LED headlights and look great too. Only real downside is cost. I waited a little and got the lights when they were $170 each so it was quite a bit cheaper than they are now but I would do it again at their current price if I had to. Hope that helps.
I can send you a picture of 'em tomorrow. Factory paint in pretty good shape if I recall correctly.
Some of my clips are broken so I ordered a pack. It includes 20 so I can definitely include some with my vents if this works out! https://www.amazon.com/Moulding-Retainer-sealer-Toyota-62955-20020/dp/B01M16D2KB
Possibly you could send a close up of yours so I could see how the orange peel is? I'll likely be vinyl wrapping instead of paint!
If you order from Crutchfield, they will send you the wire harness for free with the headunit and the guide for how to do it. If you don't order from them, I can send you the PDFs. The instructions they gave me are technically for the non-premium stereo, but it's effectively the same. I would recommend buying the "Metra 70-1761 Receiver Wiring Harness" if you don't order from them. It will make the install very clean. You'll literally just have to match colors and connect the harness that comes with the head unit to this harness, then just use the OEM clips for the original radio. Personally, I like to solder the wires and then use shrink tubing to make it look clean, but I've heard people say soldering is actually not the best for some reason. Just make sure to make good connections that won't come apart.
If you to re-wire the speakers, you will just run the white, black, green, and purple speaker wires coming from the head unit to the speakers themselves and tape off the white, black, purple, and green pairs of wires on the Metra harness. You may also want to buy quick disconnect clips for your new speaker wires, so u can take it apart easily if you ever have to. I bought these, but any will do.
The hardest part is wiring the parking brake properly to the head unit so it knows when you're "parked". I bypassed the whole problem by just connecting it to the ground/earth wire so it always thinks the parking brake is on. This may not be entirely legal since it's meant to lock you out of certain features when you're driving.
The metal retainers you’re referring too are called hog rings. I suggest using them over zipties, no sense in potentially having to replace the cover again sooner because either a zip tie broke causing the cover to move again or one rubs through the material.
Does anyone have experience with this timing belt kit? This is the only option I could find other than ordering every piece separate from toyota or another parts source.
Evergreen TBK125WPA Compatible With Toyota MR2 Celica 3sgte Dohc Timing Belt Kit w/Water Pump
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L1LYQ5M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9ZDFVJ1SSA0KN2H420MA
Since cars and windshields are so much larger today than they were 25 years ago, you will probably need to order one online to fit.
I believe the size small in this link would fit the SW20.
Get one (or two) of these - https://www.amazon.com/American-Technology-CH00100-BLK-1-Collapsible-Adjustable/dp/B000Q86IQQ/ref=psdc_318296011_t4_B07TXKBWV1
They're a slightly different design to the ones I had, though I've had one taped to the side of the passenger footwell and it was AMAZING. Never had an issue with them.
Yupp, just as u/deltakatsu said, pretty much limited to second hand. You can also try Honda’s Shin-Etsu Silicone or another product, Gummi pflege Stift. I personally use the Shin-Etsu on my AW11’s door seals to help with wind noise. I just apply it at the start of summer and again and the start of winter.
I just use a disconnect and make sure the battery itself is clean so as to not lose any charge over dirt/dust buildup between posts. side post
You bet, good luck with your own install!
I looked at my Amazon order history, here's the USB port I used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078LRSZDB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&c=1
...and if you need blanks for the switch panel, I found them on eBay, item was called "Panel Holder Blanking Plate Standard Size Fit for ARB Carling Rocker Switch". I had to trim them down a little bit to fit the MR2's panel, but just takes a sharp razer blade and some patience to make them pop in place. I'll look forward to seeing how your setup turns out! :D
I use a seal cutter. Fairly simple to use, just use a rubber dead blow to wedge it in and then hit the side to push it around the block.
The thing to watch out for is there is a baffle installed between the oil pan and the bottom of the block, all of which is sealed with RTV (could explain why you’re seeing so much of it). Once you get it separated, the pan/baffle like to get caught up on the oil pick up tube so be carful when pulling it down.
As for the stud and nut combo rather than a bolt, that’s factory, and I’m sure there is suppose to be 2 studs.
When putting it back together, the best RTV to use would be Toyota F.I.P.G..
Thanks.
I just ordered them from amazon. I'm sure I could find them cheaper elsewhere but I already needed to put an order in + convenience factor.
Nice wheels btw, what size are they? Do you have any rubbing issues?
Use proper trim remover tools and you can get the clips off easily. Since the plastic is so old, some will likely crack but you can get bulk replacements for cheap such as:
https://www.amazon.com/Toyota-Panel-Retainer-90467-10188-Sienna/dp/B0040CTTH4/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0043GRK3M/
As for cleaning out the drain tubes, do you know for sure that they are clogged? Either compressed air or a long wire (coat hanger) will work.
Here is an R12 to R134a conversion kit.
https://www.amazon.com/Interdynamics-Certified-VA-LH11-R-134a-Retrofit/dp/B002G1PC4U/
Please verify with an a/c shop prior, but I believe that you'd just need to have the current R12 fluid vacuumed out of your aw11, then install this kit, then have your system filled with R134a.
Yep! I'm no pro but they're probably fine... you should be able to screw the pistons in all the way until they're flush with the surface of the caliper IIRC.
Edit: here's that tool: SUPERTOOLS 3/8" Disc Brake Piston Caliper Wind Back Cube Tool TP1134 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y384EES/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_I4LKAb4V48KTQ
Edit 2: /u/trentosaurus's idea is better. Love me some autozone loaner tools.
Nice video!
Only thing I would suggest is to pick up a clip on / lavelier microphone. Doesn't need to be a super expensive fancy one, a cheap one from Amazon / EBay will give you a big boost in audio quality over the in camera microphone. Something like this would be fine to start out with - https://www.amazon.com/Professional-Microphone-Omnidirectional-Smartphones-Cancelling/dp/B016C4ZG74/
Depending on what coolant's in the car now, it's a 2 or 3 year change interval, so it's probably due for a change anyway. For the time being though, you can hook a couple of hoses up to those air bleed points, and see if you get bubbles out of it. Depending on how low it is, you can bleed the bubbles out and buy yourself a bit of time until you can get it flushed, refilled, and bled.
While you're at it, you should replace the thermostat and it's gasket too, it's a 40k maintenance item and replacing them requires draining the coolant anyway. Mine was failed open when I replaced it, so the car couldn't warm up to operating temp. Which I suppose was good, because I was also low on coolant...
I ended up using a friend's motorcycle jack, similar to this.
It worked out great, as we could strap it down using one of the arms of the jack to help keep it from wobbling and tipping around when pushing the new engine back under. The guide also suggests using a furniture dolly, which I imagine would work just as well, if not a bit better since the supports on it are probably a bit wider, helping to balance it better.
oops, turns out my Amazon search omitted the 4agze from my search so they aren't the correct ones. I just learned a lot about pulleys, and this appears to be the Toyota part number 13570-16010.
Check this one out, it may be what you need. Hayden-Automotive-5003-Tensioner-Pulley
It's the redtop 3SGE out of a ST202 celica. Using the original ECU that came with the engine, and harness modified by MR220V, who does a lot of the harnesses for engine swaps.
Seems to me that my issue is spark, not fuel or air, since I've checked spark and am not getting it. Or am I missing something? And because I've verified that I'm getting voltage to the coils, what must be missing is the ECU signal telling the coils to fire. Is that a bad assumption? I checked for spark by removing the coil and attaching it to a spark plug tester, linked below. Did that for 2 of my coils, neither showed any spark while cranking. If that's not an accurate test for spark, I can do something else. http://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-Ignition-Tester-Calibrated-Ignitions/dp/B0002STSBC
Trying to figure out what the ECU needs in order to tell the coils to fire. Definitely needs a signal from the crank position sensor, possibly one from MAF too...does anyone know about that?
That link looked like it was going to be good....but then the guy solved it with some missing relays. Wish the autoshop document linked in post #7 was still live.
I can attest to Redline MT-90. It helped with my first gear syncros. Second gear is always notchy for me until it warms up (about 10 mins of driving.)
You'll need to get 5 quarts (BGB says 4.5 quarts capacity). Take the intercooler off and jack the car up. IIRC the filler/drain plugs are 15/16" but double check which socket you have fits best as these plugs are really easy to round off. Take the filler plug out first (if you don't do it first you might never get it off again). Then take out the drain plug on the bottom.
After it drains out put the drain plug back in and then fill the trans until it starts to come out the filler hole (this is what the BGB says). You will probably get somewhere between 4-4.5 quarts in as it's difficult to drain the trans completely. You can try jacking up one side of the car at a time while it's draining to get the most out as possible.
It'll take somewhere between 100-200 miles before you notice any difference in shifting quality. It's been about 3000 miles since I changed mine and first gear is like butter.
Amazon has MT-90 for $16-17 per quart here. I've noticed the price changes often but I've never seen it over $16.95.
hella 550's from amazon with some custom mounting brackets to the tow points. and theres still the second set of lower tow points so im not really worried.