What are
/r/neogeo's
favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/neogeo:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/neogeo:
The most popular reviews in /r/neogeo:
Yea I think I am going to mod this NeoGeo X stick to higher-quality parts (I already bought colored Sanwa buttons, and I might also replace the stick/balltop, spring, maybe even gate and microswitches).
By the way, if you are having any issues with the 8bitdo's dpad, try this simple tape mod: https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/17193/8bitdo-nes30-pro-d-pad-mod
I had to do it to both my NES30 and SNES30 (both discontinued now) and it works like a charm.
I have the lions3 case and can confirm it's good.
For power, I use one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QKPBZX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_s1NbGbN1Z1WGH
It's a single outlet power switch.
I have it on the end of a very short extension like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9LPFDB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_62NbGbX9G0D30
I actually have it on a 4 way splitter with superguns on all the extensions, but what I linked is more to your needs (I think).
Not to nit pick but the name of the board is MV1C. =)
I've ordered 2 MV1C enclosures and 2 Capcom CPS-1 short enclosures from lions3. He even modified the CPS-1 enclosure based on my feedback. It doesn't make me his best friend, but I have experience with him. He's a good dude.
If you want to pay the cost up front, I will order the lions3 MV1C enclosure/case for you and ship it to you.
I know an internet stranger's word is not worth much, but I don't need the $60ish and I wouldn't screw you. Just trying to help get you rolling.
The neo geo and arcade community in general have been extremely helpful to me and I just want to pay back a little where I can.
If you are interested, send me a message.
You can try to pry the thumb stick off once you've opened the controller, but personally I don't like that and I saw another method on the net that works without the anxiety: use two spoons. Yes, two spoons. Place them with the convex side (bulge) facing the controller, and work the edges under the thumbstick caps a bit. Then lever them up in unison slowly. The thumbstick cap should come off pretty easily, and then you don't have to worry about applying excess/misdirected force when prying it off the PCB.
Once you're inside, be careful once you remove the top assembly of the microswitches: everything is held in place by spring tension, and if you're not careful when removing the pieces they may shoot off everywhere. Once it's all apart, give it all a good once-over for dust and other particulates and it should be good to go. You might want to invest in some silicone grease and use it to lubricate between where the plastic plungers make contact with each other in the joystick assembly, and around where the shaft makes contact with the plungers as well. The plastic dust that's created from this friction is what causes most mechanical problems with the NGCD controllers, so a little preventive maintenance will keep your controllers working for a long time.
Fairly sure this will work, but let's have someone else check and confirm.
https://www.amazon.com/Projects-100EP51447R0-Ohm-Resistors-Pack/dp/B00CVZ3TNM/
I get 47 Ohm +/- 10%, the one I linked to is 5% (lower is better).
It wasn't dap after all, here you go: https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-50132-Clear-Adhesive/dp/B009EU5ZMK/ref=pd_bxgy_sccl_2/139-9392919-8798742?pd_rd_w=EbUyt&content-id=amzn1.sym.7757a8b5-874e-4a67-9d85-54ed32f01737&pf_rd_p=7757a8b5-874e-4a67-9d85-54ed32f01737&pf_rd_r=PDCA...
I would try taping it together on the outside with something like masking tape that won't leave a mark, and then glue it on the inside. I don't think it would have to go between the cracks...bridging them with the glue map be enough.
If it's possible, you could use something like an Irwin quick clamp to hold it together while gluing. The epoxy dries really fast.
Correct, sorry. Missed the second picture this morning. That is an active adapter/converter. I was thinking of one of [these].
USA: https://www.amazon.com/Source-Converter-SCART-Component-Gaming/dp/B07QF95QP3?ref_=ast_sto_dp
Europe: https://videogameperfection.com/products/open-source-scan-converter/ (this is where I got it from despite the fact that I'm in the US)
Please note that the OSSC is not a plug and play solution, it requires some configuration and updating on your part but as retro gaming enthusiast I will tell you it's BY FAR the best video adapter/converter that you can have.
I got it from amazon
Avisiri 2X Arcade Joystick's Oval... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MH6Y43V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Unscrew the bottom of the controller, turn it upside down, use a flathead to hold the stick in place and twist CC with the black top. it'll spin off and you can add the new top.
Anything along these lines.
https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Adapter-Converter-100-240V-5-5x2-1mm/dp/B01GEA8PQA/
I'd be surprised if you didn't have some already, they're kind of ubiquitous.
Thanks for the link! Question though, the extension cable says the voltage is 125v, will it be okay to plug the 100v AC adapter into it? Also, would something like this work too?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08B3HQBDY/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_EJH1HFBMQ4Q8BGA6Z127?psc=1
they have rgb out by default
You might also try adding desiccant pouches into the storage bins where you have your cartridges, they should help to keep those areas dry. There are reusable desiccant packs available that can be reused rather than throwing away, here's an example:
INTERTECK PACKAGING 240 Gram Silica Gel Packets - Blue to Pink, Rechargeable BT-50 Paper Translucent Desiccant Packets and Dehumidifiers, 18 Cubic Ft/Packet (Indicating, 1 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084RWFCXL/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_R0N8QTT5H6GMHJMZAERZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I had similar issues with mine. I would recommend trying a different brand of USB Drives. I had luck with a Samsung branded USB, but Sandisk never worked right for mine, even though I got those micro ones that I’ve seen people use on videos.
This is the one I’m using: SAMSUNG MUF-32AB/AM FIT Plus 32GB - 200MB/s USB 3.1 Flash Drive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7SX9NS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_F6V17ZXCA3GXGB47HZ0A?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Also, anecdotally, I feel my USB installs would work best after freshly exporting rom pcks using MVSX Builder application which can be found on github: https://github.com/flobot-oss/MvsxPackBuilder
If mine starts behaving strange, I go in, remove the roms that I think are problematic (if I added any, the ones in the hylo hack all seem to work fine for me), then re-export to USB. It always works for me.
There are cheaper hdmi video cables out there like this Hyperkin one:
Hyperkin Hdtv Cable for Neo Geo Aes/ Neo Geo CD - Not Machine Specific https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08CYW2DRS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_926A0CJGMXRYMNM7X00J
But I don't think that the image quality is as good as the RAD2X.
I'm thinking that's the route I'll go. https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/113891498/omega-neo-geo-mvs-replacement-cartridge-shells?ref=live
This looks awesome, I hope something like this is available in the future. Do the shock boxes for the MVS fit aes?
If you're using pi then use Final Burn Alpha. There should be an FBA core in Retropi. https://retropie.org.uk/
If you enjoy it on Pi and want to try better hardware, but don't want to go for real hardware, I would suggest emulating on an HTPC or Mister FPGA.
CD Pads are notorious for the domes dying. You can replace the little clicky dome with one from a gba dpad I believe, or you can replace the whole switch with a drop in replacement part:
In my experience most Japanese devices are tolerant of the over voltage.
I still recommend and use this step down transformer,
In my experience most Japanese devices are tolerant of the over voltage.
I still recommend and use this step down transformer,
For the height, I recommend buying those : https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07TQ82C4V/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It work perfectly, and as I mentioned below, it has an almost official look to it. It does look pretty good! Other than making a riser yourself, it may also be the cheapest options. The available barebone black custom risers now sold on eBay and Etsy cost, from what I can see, at least double the price, and more than triple the price in many cases, if you factor in shipping costs.
If you want those I recommended, you should hurry, because there are only a few left in stock!
Just to update you, I ended up buying the bluetooth adapter I mentioned in my comment below:
https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Bluetooth-Controller-Adapter-Console/dp/B08FFS9BMP/
It works great with my 8bitdo Arcade stick. I had to use the 8bitdo software to remap the joystick to get it the way I want it, but it works! Keep in mind the adapter maps select and start to the screen recording and home buttons on a Switch Pro Controller, so you'll have to get the 8bitdo software to map those correctly.
Does any DB15 extension cable work? I wasn’t sure if they would fit into the AES console ports. I was looking at this one:
https://www.amazon.com/BULUSHI-Female-Connector-Extension-Cable/dp/B073M86247/
You have to message the creator in the thread. They are made in batches and from Brazil. I don’t quite get how it works with a SNES/NES Bluetooth receiver since those plug into the a console controller ports. I wonder if they mean this:
https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Bluetooth-Adapter-Nintendo-Switch-Raspberry/dp/B0786JC6VW/
Also this adapter might work over Bluetooth since it supports Switch controllers. The 8bitdo arcade stick seems to work with any adapter as a Switch controller:
https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Bluetooth-Controller-Adapter-Console/dp/B08FFS9BMP/
No button remapping though.
It's weird that not much has changed since the 50's as far as soldering goes. I've not found a better set of instructional videos than those. The actual flux has gotten better over time however. I use a bee's wax based flux so that the toxic fumes smell better. But really any modern SRA/No Clean flux'll work.
Did you get the extra package with the fixed riser parts? If you did, you might have a simple solution to raise up the riser.
I'm 5'11", so I'm having the same issue as you regarding the height. What I've been thinking about doing is taking the extra riser part RC (the part that connects the riser to the bartop) and attaching these furniture legs to it to make a riser for the riser. Since the extra piece is the exact diameter of the riser and the same black color, it should look pretty good.
https://www.amazon.com/BQLZR-Stainless-Kitchen-Adjustable-Furniture/dp/B00KQH8HMU
Hi everyone, thanks for your help, I ended up buying this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B081V8G1YX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 :)
MAYFLASH Magic-NS is what I use to hook my ASP to the Switch. Also works for hooking up a Wii Fighting Stick to the ASP.
Good news! Using that usb-c to usb-a adapter from Amazon made it work for me on Mac.
Worked fine with OpenEMU on an iMac and a Macbook, and Win10 in bootcamp on macbook recognized it as a usb gamepad.
I bought it hoping i could just plug it straight into the usb-c port on my MacBook, but i have to adapt it from usb-c to usb-a and then back to usb-c for it to work. It's real stupid, but whatever. What's inside that tiny adapter that makes it work?
https://www.hunker.com/12003435/can-you-use-japanese-appliances-in-the-us
May be ok, to be on the safe side you can pick up a step down transformer, less than $20 on amazon.
I've used this without a problem on both a PC and Raspberry Pi. Your mileage may vary, but it's cheap enough and Amazon has a good return policy. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07Q1GV693/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NDv2DbNPEDAKY
Using this allows you to use pretty much any usb game pad you throw at it. The only controller of mine I was not able to get working on the Neo Geo mini was the Neo Geo X arcade stick. I was able to get other arcade sticks to work though
Ok so checking it out, I really doubt it actually works, but you’ll need a USB C female to USB male adapter to even try... is this what you used to hook up the Neo Geo mini pad to magic NS? Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0834Z2SRB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mpTnFbJQBHW3C
You'll need: A specific low profile battery from Console 5, it's searchable there. Very very thin double sided tape Soldering iron / solder A hairdryer A thin metallic or plastic tool to pry
You'll need to warm up the card with the hair dryer and slide the metal tool under the metal plate. Which side (logo or back) is actually unclear- the old vs new models of these actually open on different sides. Both sides do come off, but the battery and board are accessible from different sides if that make sense- one is accessible through the top logo side, the other model through the bottom side.
The old double sided tape will need to be cleaned off.
Desolder and re solder the new battery, then apply the double sided tape and hold it all together. Be sure to carefully test the card the first time- you don't want it to be too thick and get jammed in the machine.
I've successfully repaired two cards this way and have had no issues with them as daily drivers.
I used this tape: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019OQ4ZG0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_fRpupyiLObACF
It says shipped and sold by amazon on the bottom and on the top of says GameMonkey.
Neogeo Mini Pro Player Pack USA Version - Includes 2 Game Pads (1 Black & 1 White) and HDMI Cable - Neo Geo Pocket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L81PJKS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_m5t3Eb899S051
Also, in the Q&A it says:
"Q:Hi is this 100% new and in its original packaging.
A: Depends which vendor you get it through. I ordered one through a non-Amazon vendor and got the bigger two player package that had the controllers inside the box..so you got 1 big box like the Christmas Limited Edition model. I ordered a second set but this time it was coming from Amazon and I got the regular box for just the Neo Geo and then the 2 controllers were separate in their own packaging for a total of 3 items as if you ordered each separately."
The problem is, it is ALWAYS suppose to come In the one bigger box! No matter who you buy it from!
Imagine this:
If you buy the turbo grafx 16 mini from Best buy you get the complete entire box. But if you buy it from walmart, you get everything that is INSIDE the box, all seperated, wrapped in saran wrap and the hdmi cable is now a cheap chinese knockoff!
That is what is happening here.
I'm not sure about the AES, but my NeoGeo CD uses a standard set of Red/White/Yellow AV cables, not RGB component. Like these from Amazon at $5.30. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00BDYKXNG/
There's nothing special about them and they can be found pretty much anywhere; it's the same sort of RCA-plug cabling that VCRs used all the time.
So here is a repost of a project I’ve not had a chance to finish. Single switch to toggle the button layout on a console. Perhaps you can use it.
Only need to shuffle four buttons. Ordered some switches that should do the job (one per player) based on my rough design.
Should change
ABCD
EFGH
to...
ABCG
DEFH
Will post pictures once I have things wired up sometime next week.