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Nerf Demolisher
Worker Transparent Cage & Bulldog flywheels
Neo Rhino Motors
Designed for 3s Lipo
Mosfets, Pulse generator, Solenoid & full rewire with 18g silicon wire + XT60 connector
~130fps and 10-11 darts per second @ 11.1v
Image Gallery: http://imgbox.com/g/GiEaDsw6Kt
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As I alluded to previously, I had intended to do something special with my custom Stryfe but for no real reason I decided to 'do the thing' with my Demolisher instead and sell the Stryfe. Well, after much cutting, grinding, soldering and tweaking I have a fully functional full-auto-only Demolisher, powered by 3s lipo and a cheapo 12v 35mm-stroke ebay solenoid, quadruple sprung ( much searching for springs was done during this build... ) with custom pusher and guide mechanism. It hits around 130fps and 10-11dps though the lipo wasn't fully charged so it will hit harder and faster, I'm just impatient and wanted to get this project posted. I had intended to go with a Suild kit to make my life easier but alas, out of stock every time I checked so I went with the old-skool DIY option of a 555 timer-based pulse generator to drive the mosfet and solenoid- big thanks to Adrian Ward for the very handy wiring diagram he published a while back. I went with full-auto only for simplicity's sake; my finger and remaining functional brain-cells are my fire control.
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This is something Hasbro should consider in the future, the recoil-effect of the solenoid hammering away is very satisfying and would make a great selling / marketing point...
That doesn't pass a sniff test; there's basically no way you're getting Nerf darts to break 100 fps, much less 130 fps, off a stock 2.5 kg spring, terrible Hasbro cylinder seal, and sub 3" barrel.
When I punch those numbers in a Horizontal Projectile Motion calculator (physics was a while ago, forgive me for not sitting down and doing the calculations manually), I get around 70 fps, which seems much more reasonable.
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Regardless, range tests are not a good way to calculate precise fps, as there are way too many inaccuracies and variables that aren't accounted for.
The biggest error is accurately measuring distance; unless you're watching those darts land and have high speed footage, I doubt this is really accurate down to the inch mark. Also, unless you're strapping the blaster down to a table, it's unlikely it's perfectly 3.7' and 0 degrees. Lastly, said simple calculations almost certainly don't take into account air resistance/drag (of which there is a lot of on Nerf darts) or changing wind conditions.
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If you want to make fps claims, you really need a chronograph; with the $10 Chronobarrel and the $30 Saturnus, they're way more accessible than they used to be.
Posted this in r/Nerf too, but I also wanted to put it here since it seems just as fitting.
I used a solenoid to give the Nerf Halo MA40 select fire and fully automatic capability without too many changes to the outer cosmetics of the Nerf Blaster. Using Fang Revamped motors on 2S, it hits around 120 FPS using a cage someone designed a few days after the blaster was released. I'm really really proud of this blaster and have been super excited to show everyone!
I made a video on how I did this with a firing demo at the end. I would greatly appreciate any feedback or support on the video. Thanks for the inspiration and help you guys!!
I think you could probably get away with a 15a switch if you're only buying on Amazon I did manage to find one 21a switch but it's pretty expensive https://www.amazon.com/ELECTRONIC-COMPONENTS-V21-1C6-SWITCH-PLUNGER/dp/B00DED7PQ2/
Personally though unless you need it tomorrow or are outside the us I'd get everything from out of darts or foamblast. when it comes to stuff like it's generally cheaper even after shipping and they're very reliable shops.
sry to bother you but do y0u think the motors would work with https://www.amazon.com/2200mAh-Connector-Airplane-Quadcopter-Helicopter/dp/B08CZF373Y/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=11.1v+3s+lipo&qid=1610230102&refinements=p_36%3A1253560011&rnid=386491011&s=toys-and-games&sr=1-2
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014E15WI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rKboFbW0C9R90
I use these.
I chop a bit of the tip off and jam a Mega tip on top with a little glue.
They fly really well and they whistle pretty loudly.
They're a really tight fit on a demolisher tube, but the foam is pretty tough and it will stretch out pretty nicely after a few shots.
They're relatively cheap and you get a good amount of em.
They're about twice the size of Mega dart btw.
Assuming full lengths, I'd go for Daybreaks in a 41 mm cage with pretty much any hobby motor (even the lower torque Meishels and Valkyries are okay if you don't mind the slower spin up); it will be gentler on your darts and motors.
Lipo packs aren't actually all that expensive. You can get a decent pack for ~$10 if you don't mind an expanded battery tray, or you can spend $18 on this tiny one that will fit in a (thoroughly trimmed cleaned) stock battery tray (that's enough to power at least a pair of Fang Revamps).
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A good balance charger can be a little more spendy though. If you've got a laptop or phone USB C power brick, this is probably the cheapest charger I would recommend buying (and I actually have bought it for charging on the go). It balance charges (which is a must for lipos), handles multiple chemistries, and even lets you charge at a reasonably fast rate (assuming your USB C brick provides enough current).
However, it lacks quality of life features like standalone cell balancing, discharging and storage charging. That said, it's not the end of the world to not put your packs back to storage charge unless you are flying or need to optimize every cycle out of your pack.
Something like an iMax B6AC V2 is a good step up option that does have all those quality of life features and a direct AC plug, albeit for 2-3x the price.
A display with the beepy bits like this one https://www.amazon.nl/ARCELI-batterijtester-laagspanning-spanningsmeter-LED-display/dp/B077Z1N9CS/ref=asc_df_B077Z1N9CS/?tag=nlshogostdde-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=430527936954&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5603240743325894692&hvpone...
OP uses a simpler one that draws even less
I have used inline fuses in the past. A fellow modder uses the automotive circuit breakers like what’s in the link. You just need to know the at load current (dart shooting) of the blaster so you get the right one. 10a usually good for most builds. 5a is a bit low.
T Tocas 10 Amp 5pcs Manual Reset Low Profile ATC Circuit Breakers 12V - 32V DC (10A) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073S46K4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XCRPB5AH7FY1BJYTK824?psc=1
OTW Red Dot Sight,1x20mm 4 MOA Red Green Dot Sight Micro Scope https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078ZT65VZ/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_F41XT9XD7Z0EAFA928CQ
Here is a link my good man also the funny thing was that I was just looking on red dot sights for my airsoft gun
https://www.amazon.com/Goshfun-Motherboard-Repairing-Upgrading-Regulator/dp/B07TWC8FBM
This one works with a 3S
Most underrated single-shot sidearm, IMO. Removed the AR and brassed the barrel, this thing gets decent close-ranges and is hella accurate.
Used one of these godawful things to do the grip swap and barrel shroud... which I don't recommend, tbh. The plastic has the consistency of that cheap chocolate you get in advent calendars. The grip is really comfortable though, since it's molded off an actual Glock, so it's got that going for it. Not the cleanest integration I've done unfortunately, the grip was really difficult to align properly, but it works I guess.
Gonna add more details and bits to refine the shape and cover up the gaps, and then wait out the long winter to paint.
If you're in the return window, I'd recommend returning it. The wiring and switch aren't up to the current draw of the motors, so they'll fry pretty quickly, the motors spin unnecessarily fast and we don't have good stall current measurements for them, and the flywheels will cause a lot of wear on your dart (albeit for a 5-10 fps boost).
Do you have a fps goal/cap?
For the Apollo there's this kit and this spring https://www.amazon.com/Worker4Nerf-Grip-Rival-Apollo-XV700/dp/B0847SV9GY https://www.amazon.com/3D-Toys-Modification-Upgrade-Spring/dp/B07F9PZXC1
And for the Kronos there are quite a few different springs depending on how much power you want you can go all the way up to an 18kg spring although it's a pretty difficult prime especially with the standard grip.
Not really. High current is important to make a blaster that spins up quickly and performs consistently; that pack's made up of AA-sized cells (so good luck getting more than ~10 A out of it), has thin power leads, and a low current connector.
Also, that's a NiMH pack, not a Lipo Pack; that's okay, as NiMH is a good, stable chemistry to use, especially if you are concerned about caring for a lipo or want a good loaner for inexperienced players. However, that comes at the expense of extra size and weight when compared to a lipo pack with the same power output.
I'd be much more inclined to go for a 2/3A NiMH pack; they're beefier (and thus larger) than an AA-sized pack, but not quite as massive as a full Sub C pack. Here's one that looks reasonable.
7.2 V packs are a similar voltage to a 2S lipo pack, so it's easier to get good motors from hobby sources and follow hobby guides.
I am new to this community and to modding blasters. That said, I was also looking at the Worker Metal Breech and the Metal Prime kits for my Nexus Pro. From my research it seems the kits increase the durability and performance of the blaster greatly. If you want a slight fps boost and more consistency in shots, get the Breech kit. This video does a good job explaining the pros Bradley Phillips at 2 min. I haven't seen much for the Prime kit, but would say if you're upgrading your spring it would be good too have because of the extra internal forces. I currently have a 12-inch 17/32 brass barrel with Foamdemic Ghost Breech, but I also ordered the Metal Breech kit. I'm probably going to pick up another Nexus to put that into and eventually the metal Prime kit also.😁. For iron sights, I searched Amazon and found several decent looking onesfor under $25. Haven't researched SCAR barrels much yet, but think there are a few on the market that would have a friction fit or locking but fit into the Metal Breech kit's barrel.
You know I just thought it this. Since I am going to do another stryfe mod, should I just wait and use the battery this I am going to buy from it, Ill send this link to the battery https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M92MJ92/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=AM8UWXBKQ70BE&psc=1
If I went with something like this would it have worked as well, the reason im asking is this is the one Drac used in his first stryfe mod tutorial video,
IMO, I'd go for a half decent pair of side cutters (they don't need to be anything special, like this cheap pair on Amazon) and a hobby knife set (again, something cheap on Amazon, though it might not hurt to invest a little more).
Rotary cutters take practice to use precisely, and, IMO, are usually better suited to removing lots of material really quickly. If you want a clean final result, you'll probably end up using a knife or sand paper anyway.
When I was cleaning out battery trays, I found myself using side cutters to clip away the large parts then shaving down the residual messy bits with a hobby knife, rather than setting up my Dremel and potentially making cuts/holes where I didn't intend. It worked very well and gave me a very clean final result.
The main issue is that the Longstrike uses a really inefficient reverse plunger setup, so even sticking springs heavy enough to break the stock parts will barely get you to stock Elite performance.
The Orange Mod Works Immortal kit would be what you are looking for. Unfortunately, it's been out of production for years at this point, so it's not easy to get your hands on.
IMO, your best bet is to either buy a Modulous Longstrike, since it's still in production, and either use it as is or transplant its guts into your NStrike Longstrike, or transplant Retaliator guts into your Longstrike
I promise not to start doing anything until I have an understanding of it I got some heat shrink and solder but couldn't find the right wires would these work? https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Insulated-Separated-Temperature-Resistance/dp/B07FMWNF3J/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=PTFE+%28teflon%29+insulated+hookup+wire+18AWG&qid=1610059067&sr=8-3
Do you already have a soldering iron?
Either way, that's probably more in the Eneloop price range. For $18, you get the best NiMH AA cells on the market (and a charger too) for slightly faster spin up times and more consistent fps, all without any modifications to the circuit.
If you still want more fps, you can rip out all the stock wiring except the switches and motors and solder in some 18 gauge wire for a 10-15 fps boost, IIRC. You could try to switch the motors over to Honeybadgers; it won't be perfect, but it will perform a little bit better.
I'm thinking of doing the same as OP. I found this part list on Suild:
OFP Gen 2 STRYFE/RAPIDSTRIKE Flywheel Cage - 42.5mm Containment Crew "CYCLONE" Flywheels (pair) OOD Valkyrie 130 3s Motor for Nerf Blasters
And as I am trying to avoid LiPo, would a 12v pack work, something like this: (https://www.amazon.ca/1800mAh-Rechargeable-Replacement-Battery-Airplane/dp/B01KLFYYAU/)
My 7kg worker spring and a spacer for the strong arm gets around 80 FPS. Here’s the kit.
It depends on how far you want to take it like so you want to keep it stock and just repair if or do you want to mod it. If you just want to repair it get this https://www.amazon.com/WORKER-Longshot-Terminator-Blaster-Modify/dp/B07VHZQJQQ
Then for the stock it depends on how it's broken it could just be that you haven't put the locking switch in the right position or it might require extra parts.
Okay! I couldn't find any Stryfe kits on Out of Darts or Foam Blasters, but I did find a kit from Amazon. I'll definitely make sure to get a kit so I have a lesser chance of messing it up.