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So I’ve dealt with this. First try a warm rag and rub vigorously. If the wood has a sealer on it then sometimes that works. If the wood was never properly sealed then it may have soaked in. So that’s a beast to remove. I’m gonna include a link to a tool I use that works awesome. Lay the blade straight onto the trim and slowly pull. You may need to re stain and blend best you can.
https://www.amazon.com/Bahco-Premium-Ergonomic-Carbide-Scraper/dp/B000288LOW
Nah they definitely make grout paint pens. You can't change Carbon to Silver Bullet, but you could definitely go from dirty white to bright white (as long as they are in the sameish color family.
/u/KT_123456789
If you have some wall paint still find some Exact Color caulk by Sashco you can make it be your wall color and then cut in with your trim color here is the product.
I think it's this one
Also, forgot to add my dusting brush 😄
Have you considered doing it right? It really isn't that expensive. They come in multiple colors, too. https://www.amazon.com/JBER-Acoustic-Soundproofing-Resistant-Treatment/dp/B08R1JFZCF/ref=sr\_1\_4?crid=29277O3XM71BT&keywords=acoustic%2Bfoam%2Bpanels&qid=1668542863&s=musical-instruments&sprefix=acoustic%2Bfoam%2Cmi%2C225&sr=1...
I apologize, it is an airless sprayer, plugs in to a standard wall outlet. It has a 1000 ml cup that the paint pours into.
I dig some digging off some numbers and such I found off the side. It looks to be this Amazon one. It was given to me.
I guess at this point, I want to learn what I have and what I can do with it to get a clean cover. It doesn’t even have to be perfect at this point. I’m excited to learn all this now once I really get into it!
I prefer removing 100%of adhesive but if you don't want to I'd recommend gardz primer.
I think your colour is bang on. The only thing is you need to use a graining tool to get the wood grain in there. Don't forget to clear coat after to protect your work. I like to use a high gloss first, then drop the sheen down to a satin for good depth to the finish.
You're better off with rattle cans and a pistol grip adapter than any cheap or DIY sprayer setup, honestly.
https://www.amazon.ca/Can-Gun1-2012-Premium-Aerosol-Spray/dp/B002EQEE82
Just get your paint from an autobody paint supplier. Clear coat, too.
I did a quarter panel and door with this kind of setup and it worked really well.
So like this PURDY
Ah, I thought you meant like fresh logs, not assembled. In that case you could use this combined with one of these for getting into tight areas. They make them in sizes frin 1/2" to 1 1/8". You could also use a grinder with a nylon wheel which would be the most cost efficient option.
The guard goes into the bucket with solvents every night with the tip. Wipe it clean each morning and throughout the day. I use one of these, and it's a big help in keeping your fingers clean:
Tipsaver, Spray Equipment Cleaner/Organizer, ALP6000TS https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07TKNMTNP/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_PF89TMQ6DZS5RAGY38NM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Its a bit slower drying. Try dipping a piece of filliment in the paint to see how it reacts
Also, oil and acrylic together tend to orange peel i find. Try something like this if you want it to play nice with acrylic
Are you talking about this Graco model?. It looks good but it's $700 more expensive than the Fuji. I would consider myself in the 'prosumer' type of buyer category but I'm not a pro making money off of this so I have to draw a line somewhere.
Just get some cans of automotive metallic paint in cans made up for you at an auto paint store. You can get the same brand of clear top coat. Gentle scuff and clean with alcohol.
This brand is very good.
Spray max 10.6oz Aerosol 1k Acrylic Clearcoat 3680058 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B3I2DN0/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_RFM53PEEREHQTZ5S077B
Lacquer is pretty hard, but it you want durable you can use automotive clear coat. Its an epoxy that mixes in the can.
Spray Max 2K High Gloss Finish Clear Coat Spray Paint | Car Parts and Repair Refinishing Clear Coat for Permanent Sealing of Coated Surfaces | 3680061 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0043B7UQY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_69N966ZTD9YZFV1BQCFY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I would suggest this book. Pay attention to the glossary of terms. Also get yourself a colour wheel and learn it. Do some research on the safety standards. Ask the Union about a refresher course they might be offering.
Be prepared to be offered camp work if there is no local positions available. Industrial work is higher paying usually. Journeyman rate where I'm at now, under the our current contract is 46 something, plus pension, holidays, and benefits on top. Being a senior in charge is 14% more. :) :)
The white ones are grippy. And they breath.
ACKTRA Ultra-Thin PU Safety WORK GLOVES 12 Pairs, WG002 White / White, Small https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075WDSHHV/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_C93M9C11ARSFJD6FZCQ5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If you have a bissel, wash it with that. Dry for a couple of days. Then seal with this.
1 gal Zinsser 02301 Clear Zinsser, Gardz Water-Based Problem Surface Sealer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OFHEG2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_8AW5A4EKE1M0M81VG9S4
Tight fitting white gloves.
Air scrubber inside.
Negative air pressure systems inside.
Mask or respirator 100% of the time.
This respirator has a flip up mechanism that allows it to lower without having to pull it off your head and mess with yiur had and glasses.
3M Rugged Comfort Quick Latch Half Facepiece Reusable Respirator 6503QL, Gases, Vapors, Dust, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IF7RCU6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_5PQHYY82S4M3QB8Q42Y1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And I love these gloves.
ACKTRA Ultra-Thin PU Safety WORK GLOVES 12 Pairs, WG002 White / White, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075WDFJ6V/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_69BAY3GYF88CJGG4QDHG?psc=1
Do not sand, or degloss. Just use the appropriate primer.
KILZ Adhesion High-Bonding Interior/Exterior Latex Primer/Sealer, White, 1 quart (Packaging may vary) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J9Q58VC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_W66AW2V4KM1AGGKBQPDR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They all specifically define the max tip size , even in the infographic its one of the three specs listed.
I cant even find one over 0.019 , and its over 1k
I haven't used one but one of those airbrushs with a set of glass reservoir jars might be the thing, just keep one filled with solvent and spray out the gun between color changes.
I have an HVLP cup gun and turbine and I wouldn't want to go back and forth even with extra cups as there is too much paint on the lid and dip tube, I also have a cheap HF touch up gun but they don't sell it anymore and looking on the web the same style gun is going for 40-50.
This is what I mean by airbrush with extra siphon bottles (no idea about quality etc.): Airbrush
Preval 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CW809ZO/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_KVN7PVKSRN275Y44Q3QY
These guys work well with lightly thinned oil based paints. Basically a make your own spray paint with replaceable aerosol canisters. Getting the proper thickness with your paint is important so maybe get a drip cup too. Only works with oil paints in my experience as latex is too thick.
This exactly. Link to example why eagle project when I was a kid was paying all the fire hydrants in our Township. We happen to used bakery shakers (like restaurants use to apply cinnamon to huge batches - drilled out the holes slightly) to apply this to the last coat of paint while still wet. If you’ve got just a small batch, you can just do it by hand and eyeball it.
Oil based 2-1/2" Purdy 144024425 Adjutant Angled Sash Paint Brush, White China Bristle Pack of 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002N8YJ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_1MNXZWM76X4JHXASMNEX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
you can search for "Spraymax 2k clear" but here's a link to some one amazon. it's super popular to people who DIY spray paint their project cars, and there's tons of YouTube videos about how to use it properly (although it's pretty simple.) because it's a 2 part paint with a hardener, be sure to wear a proper mask while using it.
You're going to want a pretty good box fan if you want to suck the overspray upwards. You're fighting gravity in that case.
There are other systems designed for this too but they aren't exactly cheap.
Sorry, you are right. I have found an Amazon link:
https://www.amazon.com/Coavas-Adhesive-Frosted-Bathroom-17-7by78-7/dp/B00XHXU7PU/ref=sr_1_omk_6?dchild=1&keywords=window+film&qid=1618605472&sr=8-6
Would something like this work?
Is this a one-and-done or do you plan on doing a lot more in the future?
I picked up one of these for smaller stuff and it has been great. Different sized metal tips similar to an HVLP, but no crazy air requirement or extra equipment needed. The capacity is fine for furniture, I wouldn't tackle a fence with it.
There are other turbine style sprayers available, from $50 up to $1200+ that eliminate the need for an air compressor and deliver great results with some practice.
Now, if you wanted a compressor for other jobs, that is another story. As for the paint, I would check out some cabinet paints and make sure you follow the prep and application steps for a nice, durable finish.
> Rookie mistake but life is about learning, adjusting and continuing on.
yeah it is, painting is tough if you are wanting to do it on the level of pros. It takes a lot of time and effort to understand how to properly do everything. I got the X7 when it came up as a deal on slickdeals earlier this year and I am still learning how to get a perfect setup with it. I just recently add this gauge on the front. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SH3N7Z It helps me keep the PSI around what the spec sheet says on the paint I use. Between experimenting and the gauge I think I got it dialed in for Sherwin Williams duration/Emerald paint and the part I have sprayed looks pretty good. Definitely go with a Graco if you are wanting to go airless it will make a big difference.
This is a tool I recommend to all homeowners. This ~$20 tool can help identify many moisture related issues before they become catastrophic.
On an interior wall anything above 10-12% moisture content can indicate a problem and over 17% is considered saturation and requires replacement.
Get some card scrapers. They're meant for wood working, but would work exceedingly well here.
This one right here. They used to sell in stores but they stopped.’they don’t make them anymore but you can still find them. And they are the bomb. You can rest your purdy mini roller on the edge without soaking the roller in the paint. It also keeps your metal frame clean which if loaded with paint will drip or fling as you roll so it needs to be constantly wiped. And the magnet works great and this holds plenty of paint. It’s not great for exteriors and ladder work but I still use it. I like to keep my brush and roller clean. The magnet works awesome. I’ve never had it fail even when it’s layered in paint .
https://www.amazon.com/Handy-Roller-Pail-Bulk-Pack/dp/B06X9GLYFH
I think clearcoating is a good idea.
You could probably wetsand to get a matte finish. Better though to use matte clear.
I have used the following product line a few times with excellent results: https://www.amazon.com/USC-Spraymax-Matte-Clearcoat-3680065/dp/B0178ABUVM
I'm suggesting this because it's a true 2-part clear. The can contains two bladders with a seal that is broken to mix the components. You're not going to get a much better, more durable finish in a can.
I've used primers in the same line for automotive paint, and I recently used the clear on my bike. It's $25. Expensive for a can of paint, and after the pot life (a few days) you have to toss the unused portion.
I work at a craft store and this is what I recommended. It comes in several colors, antique gold, silver, bright gold. AMACO Rub 'n Buff Wax Metallic Finish, Antique Gold, 0.5-Fluid Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00081HYDM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QbViFbW5ANSWC
hmm I see, thanks! well this is about hydro dipping. everyone seems to be using these spray cans and I've been tasked with finding a method to use acrylics without "spray paint" so I've been trying to get acrylic paint out of a tube to float on water but I don't think it works this way. even when it floats, it doesn't gravitate towards the object when the object is immersed. thinking it's possible only with these new acrylics that are somehow oil based (to my understanding acrylics are water based)?
Hi, thanks :) will redirect the q to another sub but if it's relevant the spray cans in question are Rust-Oleum Painters Touch, and they're used for trade painting too I guess? all of this has come up in relation to hydro dipping with spray paint.
With latex paint, you have to get the stencil off before it dries. Otherwise, it will pull and stretch.
I'd follow the exacto knife advice below as far as cleaning up what you have.
Also, you can buy acetate for making stencils on amazon or at michaels fairly cheaply. Use an exacto to cut the stencil (usually the standard #11 blade knife will work fine.)
I bought this set of spray guns off of amazon but I’m not sure what compressor to get for them. I’m finding a lot of conflicting info online and I’m a little confused. Any recommendations are really appreciated!
Kind of strange that the boss is asking a newbie assistant to bring their own tools. I'd be worried that their shop isn't as stocked as it should be.
But you should invest in a drill anyway. Both a corded and cordless. Stick to the higher end brands because this is something that will be with you forever.
Always carry a 5 in 1. I have like twenty scattered all over the place and wear them out like mad.
I'm a woman with a very small face/head. Finding a respirator and goggles was incredibly difficult. Definitely take the time to try on a bunch of respirators until you find one that actually seals across your skin. Can't recommend one because it's basically like buying a bra. Be warned that you might have a mini panic attack once you start breathing through filters. Just calm down, breath in through your nose and out through your mouth. It's completely psychosomatic and will pass quickly.
I lucked out finding smokey goggles (I'm light sensitive and can't deal with straight white) on amazon that actually fit. They also have clear, and work really well at keeping contaminants out. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004NA39PG/
Boss should be providing nitrile gloves, but bring a box of your own just in case. This is all you'll need to sand, but you definitely don't want to sand without them. My dumb ass could have robbed a few banks when I went nuts sanding without gloves a few years ago... fingerprints completely gone. Not as fun as you might think it is. These are also all you'll need to spray basically any kind of product.
If he asks you why you don't have much else, tell him you expected to learn and figure out what you needed that the shop doesn't supply during the first week.
Yes I'm a novice painter. I've done a few rooms in my home. The garage has been the largest project so far (just finished the walls which needed quite a bit of spackling and re-taping). I'll look at that solution you suggested and let you know if I have any questions. I appreciate the response, thanks!
edit
ok i looked at this on Amazon and read the popular reviews (link: https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-261845-EpoxyShield-Garage-Coating/dp/B006ZUZ9QE). One question I still have is the power washing. Should I tape plastic drop cloths to the walls so I don't ruin them with the power washer? I can't see how I could possibly power wash inside the garage without soaking the drywall. Also, i have a water filter in the garage with a boot that sits on the floor. Removing this thing is not trivial. I need a plumber if I were to do that. Would I be able to go around it knowing that one spot on the floor will be old/unfinished? I may be able to put a neat square around it or something. What would you recommend for something like that?
The rest seems pretty straight forward (thought a lot of work) based on the first reviewers instructions. I think I can tackle this when the weather warms up.
My only concern is that the negative reviews say this stuff tends to come up after a few months, especially if tires go on it. Have you had any experience with this? Do you know why this might be happening for them?
Thanks for the detailed reply!
/r/travtele844 , what do you think of this kit?
You could try using something like a deglosser, but I'd be wary of the finish you would end up with. And there is always the potential of damaging the fabric.
The paint is fully cured, right?
The rustoleum glow-in-the-dark isn't perfectly clear but it definitely is not neon green when dry. As far as different colors go you're best off with a craft/hobby supply store.
Allegedly MX24 paints are perfectly clear when not glowing, but you're looking at $10-14 per ounce.