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I wouldn’t. There are so many little pieces to break. And definitely don’t power wash the canvas. I recommend magic erasers and these HIWARE 4 Pcs Drill Brush Car Detailing Kit with Extend Attachment, Soft Bristle Power Scrubber Brush Set for Cleaning Car, Boat, Seat, Carpet, Upholst https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WGKQVN7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Vv1NNgbOsnb4b
If it's plastic use this stuff.
Sand the surface with 120 grit and clean off the dust.
Apply the epoxy running a bead down the center of the crack.
Use a putty knife or a plastic spoon and smooth the epoxy out.
Let cure then repeat step 1 and paint it.
We folded down the dinette (slideout) and put a pack and play there.
At around 2 years old, we put her on the bunk end with this mattress. We fold up the bottom of the mattress and place the folded up part where the bunk end meets the popup interior so she can't accidentally fall out at night (she's 5 and we still have it that way just in case).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DQQ99O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_ZZS334SYP84R3W6ND9SX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 I just ordered these stick ons. That plus my magnetic level and I'm am all set. I too am done obsessing about it being perfect.
OK whew! :)
I did this exact mod last summer on my new (to me) popup. I bought one of these from Amazon ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CU5HI7U/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) which gave me two USB charging ports and a spare cigarette lighter for anything else I might want to pop in there in the future, as well as a cheap battery monitor to let me know that perhaps I should stop draining the battery now! :)
Assuming you have a spare spot in your fuse panel, this is a pretty straight forward mod. Just need a 1 or 1-1/4" hole saw to mount this and some wire to attach to the panel, and a compatible fuse.
You need to treat the canvas and seams with this: https://www.amazon.com/303-30604CSR-Fabric-Trigger-Sprayer/dp/B000221H08?ref_=ast_sto_dp
Clean with this before if dirty: https://www.amazon.com/303-30204-Recreation-Multi-Surface-Fluid_Ounces/dp/B00030MAL4?ref_=ast_sto_dp
We do use a clamp that we bought on https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01KZ25Y26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OxioFb1FYCXS1 that pushes up so no more clanking. We have towed this way on the expressway 5+ hours each way and no issues so far. I hope this is what you are talking about and it helps
I also grabbed a Destiny Roanoke this year! Great camper. I love how light and simple it is. We've camped with ours in 5 states already and are taking it out for a week this summer. Yours looks like it's in a little bit better exterior condition than ours :)
A few tips:
- Get a better stove. Remove the outdoor attachment hardware on the built-in stove to make a simple table that attaches to the side of the trailer. Picking up a higher-output stove saved us so much time (and fuel! less time = less heat loss) when cooking, especially when boiling water.
- This fridge fits perfectly on the cabinet immediately to your right as you enter the camper. I try not to buy on amazon but I couldn't find it anywhere else.
- If the rear shocks of your tow vehicle sag too much from the tongue weight (+ passengers, + bags), Firestone makes these things called coil-rite airbags to support the rear suspension. I'm getting mine put in next week!
They look like this and the ball end snaps in nicely. (I actually had to install these on mine -- I am not sure why they were missing or what the previous owner did?)
This stuff is magic. Spray, rub it in with a cloth/paper towel, wait 10 mins, wipe with a very wet sponge. My canvas is pretty rough so I didn't care if this stuff bleached or weakened it, but it definitely didn't. I highly recommend!
The picture is left and right side, obviously I have some patchwork to do on the right lol but both sides were equally as nasty
It's for clothes, but I hang this macrame shelf from it. I put the stuff I like to have close at night on it (a box of kleenex, my reading glasses, lotion, whatever book I'm reading). So, it serves as a night stand but 1) it's pretty hanging there and 2) I can still put stuff underneath it on the table. [2007 Fleetwood Niagara]
I was in the same situation and bought an adapter. After I used it a time or two I noticed that the 7 blade was just a pigtail plugged in to the popup and I could have just bought a flat 4 pigtail and avoided one extra piece clunking around back there.
Mine's a Jayco so this particular one probably won't work for you, but it might be worth checking if you can do something similar.
I just cary a solar briefcase with a built in charge controller.
It was cheap: amazon.com/gp/product/B010WUHW2G/
Let me go 10+ days w/o having to hook up to power. Dunno about any longer, as we had to pack up camp and go home.
I put a pigtail onto the battery that can hook to a battery tender, for when the trailer's in the garage, and hook into the solar panel when I want. That way, I don't have to keep taking the cover off the battery box.
I also flipped to LED lights, but I think your rig came with LEDs by default.
If you want pics of the setup, I can take em when the sun is up.
Power port for use with something like this. I have one for each bunk in my Jayco and they are amazing. https://smile.amazon.com/Fasteners-Unlimited-001-103-Command-Electronics/dp/B0021W3QVK/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=camper+light+fan&qid=1602025372&sr=8-2
Wow didn't even know these existed. Just found another option from Curt on amazon for a little cheaper https://www.amazon.com/CURT-45792-Receiver-Trailer-2-Inch/dp/B00371VLAC/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Curt+Multipurpose+Ball+Mount&qid=1600271945&sr=8-1
I drilled a small hole behind the light fixture to the inside of the roof and ran the wire that way. Then sealed the exterior light w/ caulk.
​
These were the lights I purchased.
Do you think the Coleman Kids 50 Sleeping Bag is okay considering we will use the furnace/heater and they'll be wearing fleece PJs? The camper also has heated mattresses. (Night time temps could get down to 30F.)
Without having used this one it looks like it would work well.
I did see this one in use while camping this weekend.
Can you fit a hitchmount rack on your tow vehicle with a high-low hitch receiver?
https://www.amazon.ca/MaxxHaul-70070-Dual-Hitch-Extension/dp/B008CE09PM
If you are getting a convertor, it should have every thing you need to add additional 12v output on. I just installed this one in my popup because the original one from 1998 crapped out on me... https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EXKUA3E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ....basically you hook your shore power line into the convertor, along with whatever 12v devices you want, and then run a line to your battery. It will automatically switch to running everything off shore power when thats plugged in, and then back to battery when not on shore power. Shore power will also charge your battery.
I did this same conversion in my 93 Rockwood last year, i used: Shurflo 4008-101-E65 12V pump with this beauty of a faucet that also find down into the sink for neat storage.
Ambassador Marine Elite Angled... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JLCV3S6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
For hose there are several options to take, so just look around and see what fits your situation.
I didn't get an accumulator and i have some pulsing, so i might throw an accumulator downstream of the pump before next year.
Why can't I do 110 like this one uses https://www.amazon.com/SEAFLO-110V-Water-Diaphragm-Pressure/dp/B075V9RBYR/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=rv+water+pump+110+volt&qid=1662559743&sr=8-6
This is my first RV so I ask out of ignorance.
You will want it to run off of 12V, not 110. You will need to run some wiring for that, but not too difficult. At the same time find a place that is both accessible yet out of the way to wire in rocker switch to cut power to the water pump as needed. This comes in handy if you have a leak, or if it just likes to go off in the middle of the night and wake you up.
You could conceivably make that faucet work but I think it would make more sense to install a new one like this:
You could get it done for around $100 I'd think. Both water pumps already suggested would work good. GPM should probably stay around 2.5-3.5. Most RV water pumps you will find will automatically sense pressure. I think SeaFlo is also a good option but a bit more $$. Avoid putting 90 degree turns really close to input or output of pump to avoid excess noise/hammering.
Have fun, this job is totally doable by just about anyone and worthwhile to do. Good luck!
Here is one that will work. I used a similar when I did my conversion.
I bought two queens of these and cut one down to for the double side. They’re pretty good, I’m about 160 pounds and it seems to support me pretty well. We got ours on sale for about 100 CAD a few months back.
Does this look like it would solve the issue? 7 pin to 4 pin adapter.
Also get these, they are amazing. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TCLB39D/ref=cm_sw_r_api_i_WRCC05JBHD5WWDJ8DZ6R_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I split things. I have a 50w solar briefcase with an MPPT charge controller that goes to the 12v system, then I have a 110v power pack with 120w solar panel that goes to the 110v system via the outside pigtale.
the 50w panel keeps the voltage up on the 12v battery, so the trailer's charge controller doesn't drain the battery pack trying to recharge the 12v system. That lets the power pack basically just provide 110v power to the interior outlets.
this for the 110v system: https://www.amazon.com/BLUETTI-Portable-Foldable-Generator-Emergency/dp/B09G5TFLNR
The solar panel I have for the 12v system isn't available anymore, but it's very similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/SUNER-POWER-Watts-Crystalline-Solar/dp/B07WYZPN2B/
a pocket bellow and a durable knife
there are lots of pocket bellows on amazon, i got this 2-pack because of the price but i don't see there being a lot of difference
Reliance Products Aqua-Tainer 7 Gallon Rigid Water ContainerIt is easy to carry when you need to empty it and will not fill up as fast as you think. Run a hose into it.
I bought this screen with a basic Dometic awning, and it worked great! It cut the morning sun significantly so making breakfast outside wasn't too hot at all. The projector is just a generic "random company with an Asian-sounding name" model I got a deal on from Woot or someplace like that, tbh the picture size on rear-projection mode was too small so we ended up moving it to our side of the camper instead which was still pretty great. Still working out some kinks with the projector hookup from my phone, but we watched 1.5 movies over the course of a rainy afternoon and between that and a Bluetooth speaker you couldn't ask for a better setup.
I have a https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NADR1CI?th=1
When I could maintain the entire panel in direct sunlight and at an optimal angle, it charged at a decent rate. The hard part was keeping the panel in the right position and free of shadow without babysitting it and moving it around the campsite all day.
Now, I have a battery meter installed, swapped out all of my bulbs for led, and budget my electric usage. I can also hook it up to the outlet on my truck to charge if I need some extra juice.
Here ya go!
For some reason it wont let me make a nice easy to use link so you will have to copy and paste or search Vivid Vinyls on Amazon.
VViViD+ Matte Metallic Purple (Ghost) Vinyl Wrap Roll (25ft x 5ft) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09RXK2M9L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_VVWWN036XZ69REHJB03B?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I think Bearcreek sells premade canvas/vinyl panels, made specifically for each popup brand and ready for you to see to your existing canvas. I hear they have a work backlog though.
Other than that you can buy tent canvas by the yard from Amazon. Just search for tent canvas fabric.
Outdoor Canvas Waterproof Cordura Fabric by The Yard - 60"x108" Waterproof Canvas Outdoor Fabric 600 Denier Use for Sunbrella Marine Awning Tent - White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09VKV324M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_1N922NT9EMJ16K611TDE?psc=1
Mine did not come with a stereo. I added one of these (https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Bluetooth-Amplifier-Wireless-Receiver/dp/B06Y67PZB1/ref=psdc_537344_t1_B072Q157FY) I have it wired up inside the galley. Sounds good for $30. Plenty of power. Running 6.5" coaxials.
Temple Products 92" White Aluminum Vinyl Insert Type Corner Molding RV Trailer 1" Leg x 1 1/4" (4 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074VB7N1J/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_RX1D2F4CDGE3R4SAH2DM
QPN White Vinyl 7/8" Insert Molding Trim Screw Cover RV Camper Travel Trailer (50 ft, White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XPD9SYR/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_AJBQVFVDAVV0JMXN9AVN
If it's just surface rust I'd hit it with some rust converter like this...
Loctite Naval Jelly 8 oz. Rust Dissolver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C014ZI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_J195AMNEJRW1M0S0793E
... and then spray the whole length with lithium grease.
If the rust is bad enough that every strand is showing rust, or some strands are broke, I'd plan on replacing. A broken cable will ruin a camping weekend, not to mention endanger you and your family (always use the lift arm safety braces).
We used ratcheting cargo bars, like this
They worked amazing at being able to crank up and support the roof. We used to replace/repair our cable lift system. We started with using them inside the camper to lift the roof and then when it cranked to its max height, moved it up next to the lift arm. Seen here
Not sure about the blue, maybe a ground?
Without a picture I’d say just get a quick connect to battery post: MinnKota MKR-12 Quick Connector Plug https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001PTHKRG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J7571JTKG8V5CNBV76GK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
While you’re at it, consider adding an inline fuse.
That turned out pretty clean for that model charge controller.
If you want a more flush solution I'd recommend the Renogy Adventurer, it's what I'm using in my PUP.
Here's a couple of options that should work:
https://colemanpopupparts.com/products/sand-shoes
Camco RV Stabilizing Base Pads - 4 Pack, for Use with Most RV Cross-Frame or T Type Stabilizing Jacks (57883), Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024E6Z9U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_TVQSY1DK8165BABMV5TC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Makes sense. I'm rebuilding mine, currently. So, I'm running additional DC circuits with DC outlets at each end. If your power center has any open slots for add'l circuits (not strictly necessary, but an easy way to add a fuse to the circuit), it might be worth your time to add one. Here's what I'm putting in mine.
I don't think this little swamp cooler is going to add more moisture than 4 people sleeping in the tent, or the dew in the mornings. I would only use it when its over 90 degrees, and where I live it's very low humidity in the summers.
I have hauled a kayak on top of the pop up, but I wouldn’t recommend it as a permanent solution. There are cross-bars designed for pop ups but involves drilling the roof, and I’m very scared of that. I tow my pop up with a Nissan Titan Truck, and I’ve installed a ladder rack to carry my kayak. Like this rack
We do the same thing. The A/C floor unit is pretty powerful to where it gets too cold sometimes. Runs fine with shore power or generator power. Venting is the only issue. I saw a video where someone installed these boat hatch into the floor of their popup so they could vent the a/c out the bottom of the camper. Been playing around with the idea of making a permanent vent somehow.
SEAFLO 4" - 8" Black Circular Non Slip Inspection Hatch w/Detachable Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076TBVNYL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_16V57KSRWK4KMD3X149X?psc=1
I ordered one of these knowing full well it's probably crap, but it's a temporary measure to see if I like the style. I looked at cutting out a plug to fill in the original hole, however, my wife doesn't like the color of the factory countertop, and it wasn't in the greatest shape. Therefore, I ended up making a whole new counter out of 1/2" plywood. All I did was trace the old counter over the ply, cut with a jigsaw, and then sanded everything smooth before painting. I also used a 1/4" round-over bit in a router for the edges, but that isn't a strictly necessary step. We'll see how it holds up, but I'm optimistic!
As far as the plumbing, I kinda had to start from scratch as mine only had a city water connection and no onboard tank or water pump. I added those, and put a T-fitting with one-way check valves for the city and onboard water. I like u/No-Cardiologist-8146's idea about shore water on the "hot" side and onboard water for the "cold" side, but I'm planning to add a water heater by the end of the year, so I'm just plugging the hot side for now.
I used this stuff for a smaller tear by our door.
It hasn’t fallen off or leaked yet.
Waterproof Tent Repair Tape Kit - Clear Tent Netting Repair Kit,Tenacious Tape Tent Repair for PVC Coated Surface LANUCN (8cm x 5m) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YV9ZD94/
Maybe I’m confused by what you need, I thought you needed the pin that slides through the hole to lock it in. If you need the stabilizer itself these work:
Red Hound Auto 2 Telescoping Folding Trailer Stabilizer Jacks Swing Down 1000 Lbs Support Capacity Each for RV Trailer Camper Includes Handle and Mounting Screws https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V57Y5D9/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_a_RZ6NEKK61SMVYB96H26F?psc=1
I use both a flipped drop-hitch on my Crown Victoria as well as a Curt single-piece for my Odyssey.
This is the exact I use with Odyssey - I bought it for my Crown Victoria but my hitch is so recessed on the Crown Victoria that this ball didn't leave enough gap before the bumper cover. Works a dream on Crown Victoria though: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PL6GV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Here's the one I'm looking at... it's a little more than I want to spend. I'm more comfortable around the 2000 range, but this has everything I'm looking for. Thoughts?
That’s going to be vinyl insert trim. Here’s a link: QPN White Vinyl 7/8" Insert... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XPCH5LM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. Double check the width of yours to confirm it’s the same width.
Mf bf and I are in the process of redoing a 2004 camper. First thing we had to do-get rid of the entire canvas. It was a steal at $500 online with the electric, propane, water, and lights all in working order. We’re also dabbling with different ideas and materials to make a light weight alternative to what it came with. We are considering getting a popup tent with removable panels (see - Quictent Privacy 10x10ft Pop up Canopy Tent with Removable Sidewalls and Roller Bag, Instant Gazebo Canopy Tent Waterproof -Burgundy https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08RYNNK7D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_0AHSY8SBFYHP804ZDS2J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) along with some bug netting in order to not have to have the stand up walls, yet have durable material that can let some light in.
For us, we plan on using our larger slide out for our futon bed going away from the hitch (that way it wouldnt have to be disconnected from hubbys truck to get to bed). The other slide out we are working to potentially have it sticking outside over the hitch with the canvas/bug netting coming straight down from the roof, so it is a flat wall.
Definitely still looking for ideas though!
If that’s all that broke. This is an off the shelf option.. You can probably find it at a hardware store. The latch plate on my screen door is literally just a plate of metal with a 90° bend on it. That’s all that’s needed for it to function. The door latch has that curved bit that folds in and as soon as it passes the latch plate, it pops out holding the door in place.
What about a collapsible step stool? Something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071FQGWMV/ folds flat. We keep one like it in our camper and it’s so handy, just keep your fingers away from the hinges when folding and unfolding because it pinches like crazy!
Here you go:
There are so many out there now. I bought mine in 2013. And paid about double for what they are asking now. Do your research I’m sure there is something better.
That euro mount does not have the correct receiver hitch size.
You need to tow the camper at the proper level so that you don't place unnecessary tongue weight on the hitch or make the camper prone to sway.
E trailer has a good article on how to calculate proper rise/drop of your hitch. You then simply purchase the correct hitch adapter.
E-trailer article: https://www.etrailer.com/faq-ballmount.aspx
Here's the adapter that I use to get the proper rise on my minivan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E28FBA/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_EM3NFH7H3XTJGA217RZY
I installed a nobsound bluetooth amp as my stereo in my pup. Powerful and good sound for what it is and for the price. https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Bluetooth-Amplifier-Wireless-Receiver/dp/B06Y67PZB1/ref=pd_sbs_1/147-3077270-2489361?pd_rd_w=cuZYr&pf_rd_p=0a3ad226-8a77-4898-9a99-63ffeb1aef90&pf_rd_r=6TRBYMQASNPC2N8F5F4P&pd_rd_r=90f68c95-fa0f-47e2-bd3a-ffd66522fa3e&pd_rd_wg=GvWy5&pd_rd_i=B06Y67PZB1&psc=1
Uses very little power. I just installed it behind the galley and have a switch hooked up to it. It has bluetooth so I can switch inputs from my phone, laptop, tv etc..
Is the tire carrier attached to the back of the shell or the bumper?
If it's to the bumper I would unbolt or cut it off (if welded) and just get one of these and be done with it. Maybe the easiest and most sure-fire way.
Thats what I got to put my spare on.
If you are trying to take up sag, have you looked into bagging the rear shocks? WE did that with our Previa and it made a world of difference for balance and handling.
We used this kit. Obviously you need the one to match your vehicle...
I give props for the creative intuition of the fabric paint. I'm a fan of the clean canvas personally and I love the way they clean easily (in the sense that it IS possible with the right tools and old ones aren't doomed) I've never met a stain or shoot I couldn't remove with a little extra attention. The side bunk panels!! I am personally super proud of this once, as this is a TOTAL original idea!! I'm a huge DIYer so I "borrow" a lot of ideas from the internet and just improvise based on circumstances. I bought these wire curtain kits from amazon. I was already sewing new curtains for the entire camper, 4 more oddly shaped ones to help us sleep longer was not a big deal. Thr hardest part was estimating AMD cutting the angle of the windows. Was not a perfect situation but they are not only gorgeous but super useful!! (If you have to have darkness to sleep well- and I do). Needles to say, I used a soft cotton fabric in a pin-stripe black for these. I wish I could show a picture. ❤❤❤these. I cut each side in 2 pieces so I can open them during the day. No darkness in day- no bright lights when sleeping!! 😂
I live in Michigan: when it rains, it pours, and inevitably a little water gets in through the AC unit.
I have this cover:
Vortex Deluxe 10 11 12 ft Pop Up... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B74XTR4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
My pup is a little over 10' long and this fits it quite well. No moisture gets underneath from rain, and it's humid enough here that I'm not really worried about condensation. That said, when I remove it, no water has pooled in the cinched sections.
Reviews suggest it'll last a couple years at least, and it came with several patches. Very happy for the price.
What about a stand alone tent with 2 doors?
Limited-time deal: VIVOHOME 210D Oxford Outdoor Easy Pop Up Canopy Screen Party Tent with Mesh Side Walls Blue 10 x 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0732Y22MM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_dl_01A2VD1ESM4AX14ETZ3J
Eh, for the leveling blocks go to harbor freight and spend 30$ for their set. I love them. They work far easier and better then these imo.
I'm not sure what you need the first thing for. Are you missing your leveling jacks too? Or just the front jack? Or just the wheel off the jack? I'm confused. If you need the leveling jacks then I would recommend these over the ones you posted. I just used these to replace one I busted on my first outing. They take about 15 minutes to install and are easy to use, you can even use a drill to set them up at a camp site if you like.
Eh, for the leveling blocks go to harbor freight and spend 30$ for their set. I love them. They work far easier and better then these imo.
I'm not sure what you need the first thing for. Are you missing your leveling jacks too? Or just the front jack? Or just the wheel off the jack? I'm confused. If you need the leveling jacks then I would recommend these over the ones you posted. I just used these to replace one I busted on my first outing. They take about 15 minutes to install and are easy to use, you can even use a drill if need be.
Eh, for the leveling blocks go to harbor freight and spend 30$ for their set. I love them. They work far easier and better then these imo.
I'm not sure what you need the first thing for. Are you missing your leveling jacks too? Or just the front jack? Or just the wheel off the jack? I'm confused. If you need the leveling jacks then I would recommend these over the ones you posted. I just used these to replace one I busted on my first outing. They take about 15 minutes to install and are easy to use, you can even use a drill if need be.
Eh, for the leveling blocks go to harbor freight and spend 30$ for their set. I love them. They work far easier and better then these imo.
I'm not sure what you need the first thing for. Are you missing your leveling jacks too? Or just the front jack? Or just the wheel off the jack? I'm confused. If you need the leveling jacks then I would recommend these over the ones you posted. I just used these to replace one I busted on my first outing. They take about 15 minutes to install and are easy to use, you can even use a drill if need be.
Yes, I understand. I’m getting options in order. Right now, I’m leaning towards these with some
Camco Olympian Aluminum Stack Jacks, Stabilize, Position And Level Your RV, Trailer Or Camper, Can Support Up to 6,000 lbs, Extends 17" - (4 Pack) (44560) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000760FWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_B8AWYNV21142P2PYCNKP With these
Camco 21023 FasTen 4x2 RV Leveling Block For Dual Tires | Interlocking Design Allows Stacking To Desired Height | Includes Secure T-Handle Carrying System, Yellow (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T36J7ZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_H8876NQJHV16QJ7SV267?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
That's kind of what we were leaning towards because of all the added utility of having the icemaker along. And when we're boondocking, we can go the classic route of making a trip into town for ice.
I am tempted to get something like this AC/DC cooler because then our food wouldn't get all soggy in the melting ice.
I would suggest removing the old caulk and resealing the seams and openings. It won't help if the roof is already rotten but will prevent further damage. We got some stuff on Amazon that went on fairly smooth and hardened up nice.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GLZMC6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_GVG48Z3WAM7WX62D5R3D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The awning is attached to swagman roof mount. The owner before me had it all installed. I put the bike rack on and it is a simple one from amazon.
Got one of these for my hitch mount bike rack. Works great with my pop up CURT 45792 Dual Receiver Trailer Hitch Ball Mount, 2-Inch, 3,500 lbs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00371VLAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Yvs7H2yMDr5e7
I have a cooler with either a regular plug or a 12V in my Jeep. On the road- plug it into the Jeep. At the campsite- plug it into the camper. Also warms for a BBQ if needed. Similar to this:
K-box Electric Cooler and Warmer with Wheels for Car and Home - 48 Quart (45 Liter) - 6 FT. EXTRA Long Cables Dual 110V AC House and 12V DC Vehicle Plugs (Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BDMY33Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_4VHB5QN617KG47FN2C7X
Edit: I’m camping now. Was fall Friday, winter overnight (18F), spring Saturday, and Summer Sunday (80F). It freezes things when it’s too cold- maybe under 50F external temp start paying attention.
Seems like you could use one of these on both ends. It would be 120 inchs x 95 inches if you slice it down the middle. $15.00 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08P57KXKB/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B08P57KXKB&pd_rd_w=qdhy0&pf_rd_p=4269e1a0-a218-4fbd-9748-1cd337d2f2a5&pd_rd_wg=DK7tU&pf_rd_r=G27BDE0NQRVYY2KBK9D5&pd_rd_r=14fb07f5-0f5c-4c26-b0b0-ab351e8c8099&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzS0lIUlEwNUtXRFAzJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDQwMjYzTTBCQUQ0RjJBTUI3JmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAxODQxNzYzVUgzR04xMEYzSkVGJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
You don’t need to waterproof the vinyl part. Just the fabric canvas that typically covers the windows. I used this for the window coverings.
KIWI Camp Dry Heavy Duty Water Repellent, 10.5 OZ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWIT5Z6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7V2F093T643C8PQFBM04?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
We tow with a Toyota Sienna. we bagged the rear shocks and it made a huge difference to handling. No more rear sag and way better braking and cornering.
A kit like this does amazing things. You just stuff the red air bags inside the rear shocks and inflate when you are towing something heavy.
Follow up question.... Recognizing that space heaters pull a lot of power, what are your thoughts on a small air conditioner and a mini fridge in comparison?
My Carson Powered Block says the following: 120 VAC, 15 AMP, 60 hz.
Also, the A/c is wired directly into the Power block, but the fridge is plugged into an outlet that is connected to the power block.
If i got one of these adaptors, i could plug either the fridge or power block into the 30 amp plug, distributing the power across two circuits. Make sense?
Camco PowerGrip Durable Electrical Adapter - Easy Grip for Simple and Safe Use, 30 AMP Male 15 AMP Female (55233), Yellow|Yellow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00192QB3I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_TNGAJ84QEK6YQ2GFMZ6B
Thanks again for your help.
This is what you need. I have a Zamp installed system. Thought I’d buy a cheap folding Renogy 100W panel to save money. After 4 months of actual use it started to give me only 3.1 amps in full sun. Renogy said this was normal and stopped responding to my emails. One year warranty whereas, Zamp has a 20 year warranty.
Solar Panel Connectors 10AWG Compatible with MC4 Connecter to SAE Adapter PV Extension Cable Wire for RV Caravan Solar Panels Battery Charger kit with Two SAE to SAE Polarity Reverse Adapters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MW1M1VB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_i_8A6bGbTY8SVS0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Ah, I figured as much.
You could always get a telescoping fishing pole or two and build a dipole. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07FSNM96Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_x2gVFb86T8TS7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is the adapter. Deep Power Wing Nut Driver - Slot Wing Nuts Drill Bit Socket Wrenches Tools Set for Panel Nuts Screws Eye C Hook Bolt, 1/4" Hex Shank
I just have an old 18v DeWalt drill. Any newer 19/20v drill should be strong enough I would imagine unless you got something very heavy.
I have a 50W flexible solar panel with about 30-40 feet of cable. Very light weight and easy to stash anywhere. This seems more than good enough to keep our battery charged up during the day....assuming we didn't get a site that was too shady. You can pick them up from Amazon for about $80. You can get larger watt panels but they start getting pretty big. Hmm, I see an 80W one here that doesn't look too big...only 33" x 27" (vs 24" x 27" for the 50W). ( https://www.amazon.com/Richsolar-Extremely-Flexible-Monocrystalline-Solar/dp/B07GQKLP7T/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=50w%2Bsolar%2Bflexible&qid=1564105935&s=lawn-garden&sr=1-3&th=1 )
I'm by no means an expert, but I can share what has worked for my husband and I so far. We bought a 1985 Bonair not that long ago and had similar issues.
Luckily, most of the problem was our canvas. We spent some time cleaning the tarp using this Mildew Stain Remover from Amazon. It will take several bottles if you are cleaning the whole canvas. Just spray on and watch the magic happen. It did remove the waterproofing for our canvas however, so we needed to use this Waterproofing product as well.
We also re-upholstered all of our cushions & that helped freshen up the inside of our pop-up.
If you have issues with rotting wood etc, that could be a different story; I do not have any advice on that one.
Good luck! It's lots of work, but definitely worth it in the end :)
They needed a little convincing on my biggest cushion but I used these on the back : Bed Sheet Clips Straps Sheet Holder Mattress Clips, 4 Pcs Adjustable Elastic Bed Sheet Grippers Straps Suspender Fasteners Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N3OJHTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tLwKFbBHYJHMP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
We use a hitch lock when we go. Walmart sells them for $25 bucks. Good piece of mind.
LIFE CHANGING HACK. I JUST did mine with set of 6 dining chair covers from amazon (like $25 total). I’ll upload pics and link in a sec
Lalluxy Stretchy Parson Chair Slipcovers for Dining Room Chair seat Covers Chair Protectors for Party Pet Protection Universal Fit Soft Polyester Set of 4 (Style 15) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08B1JVQHL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sd1JFb6DXWVJV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The canvas in my rockwood Freedome was flapping in the wind, and I couldn't figure out why. Then I realized that nearly all but a few of these screws were missing. They are used to secure the canvas into the body of the camper. Any idea what they're called, so far my google searches have been pretty broad. Also if I'm not able to find the exact model, is there any reason why just using a short machine screw wouldn't work? Thank you all!
We've used something like this: https://www.amazon.com/HiTow-Receiver-Adapter-Trailer-Extender/dp/B073TDQ7BC/ref=sr_1_2?crid=FIOJAWYTPWWH&dchild=1&keywords=double+hitch+receiver+2+inch&qid=1602531706&sprefix=double+hitch+r%2Caps%2C234&sr=8-2
Seemed the simplest solution for us with our pop up that didn't involve expensive roof racks that might lead to leaks or overloading that rear bumper.
I use a small plastic plunger to clear the drain before closing it up. Something like this: PlumbCraft Powerful Mini Home Plunger for All Drain Types, including showers, tubs, and sinks - Small - 7.5" H https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005BIGCRG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_AYZDFbGWH9H6G
We have one of these:
ProRac RVPB-020-1 Tent Trailer Proformance Bike Rack - 2-Bike Carrier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NRZ2V2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bbQAFbQVF4BTN
I like it because it can hold up to 6 bikes and doesn’t require holes or anything in the camper. Found one on Facebook marketplace for $200.
Compressors inside of refrigeration systems will fail rather quickly being turned on their side. The oil that sets inside of the compressor moves through the pipes and can clog up the condenser section. Without oil on the compressor the pump with lock up without knowing for sure all the oil will return.
I’d recommend this over flipping a mini fridge around. You can pre-chill it as well as keep food cold on the drive. There’s also a 120v adapter bought separately for about $20. A family member of mine used one last trip and it actually stayed colder setting outside then my 2007 fleet wood fridge maintained on shore power.
I'd go buy some vinyl/canvas material. Something like this: amazon.com/Marine-Canvas-Waterproof-Upholstery-Outdoor/dp/B07C5QGJ68 although if you've got a fabric store nearby, they'll have something that will work.
I'd cut the damaged portion out to the nearest seams, or at least well beyond the damage area, and stitch in a new chunk of canvas, making sure to roll the material over itself at least twice, and do a double stitch across all seams.
I use the speedy stitcher (amazon.com/Speedy-Stitcher-SEW120-BRK-Sewing-Awl/dp/B000FXT814) to do my canvas sewing.
It should be fixable for less than $50. Probably cheaper, depending on the cost of material, and if you have the ability to sew already.
My new to us Forester has 7 pin connector and wired electric brakes. I've NEVER used brakes on a trailer before. I got real lucky and unplanned, the used Ford Explorer I have is pre-wired for 7 pin towing.
All I need now is a brake controller. We are gonna use this proportional one after some research. It has the right connector, my Ford has the spot for it just under the driver side wheel near the parking brake. I was very excited to already have this stuff wired, so why not use it?
Also, since the trailer is 6 years old, we are taking it into a truck and trailer shop to inspect the brakes and grease the bearings and replace the tires.
Mobile reply so sorry in advance. My pop up is covered right now or I would open it up and show you. I have done tons of mods to it to make it our own though. You can buy a exterior shower unit like this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004NBJM5G/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_pioFEbJ8HJ5E6. Mount it on the port side and run a hot water line using Pex tubing from the hot to connect, then just use the existing cold water line and hook it up. Most RV plumbing uses 1/2". All plumbing items can be obtained from the big home improvement stores. It would be a simple project, but could be intimidating because you are messing with plumbing and cutting a hole in the side of your pup. With the enclosure for showering we just use a pop up shower tent with a floor (we got ours on Amazon) and a bucket to "catch" the water to be dumped. Under our bunkends I used some rope attached to the bunk wood and a broom stick with the end cut off and holes drilled in it for the rope, then screwed some cheap broom clips next to it to roll it up and secure it when we push the bunk ends in. It works great. LED strip lights under the awning if you have one was a big hit for the kids. Bubble levels mounted on each side and the tongue helped greatly when leveling as well (ours didn't have any). A 4" pvc tube mounted under the frame for storing the outdoor rug also was a space saver too.
Kill 2 birds with one stone. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BH5MAA/
Get a pizza bag to store this thing in. It is worth the money vs jerking around trying to roll the thing on and off correctly sized blocks.
> ALEKO FAB10X8SAND31 Retractable Awning Fabric Replacement 10 x 8 Feet Sand
I personally use the Andersen camper leveler and I love it! https://www.amazon.com/Andersen-Hitches-3604-Camper-Leveler/dp/B001GC2LVM/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1528416032&sr=8-2-fkmr0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Andersen+camping+leveler
Been using this for a few years on the PUP. Found it when my windows on my Jeep were really scratched and cloudy. You'll need a buffer and a couple pads, but the results are amazing.
Battery Tender 021-0123 Battery Tender Junior 12V, 0.75A Battery Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qEgJAbVJNNSB0
You can get these at pretty much any hardware or autoparts store. They aren't for recharging a dead battery but they will keep it topped up during the off season. I would also recommend getting some terminal protective spray to help limit terminal corrosion.
CRC 05046 Technician Grade Battery Terminal Protector - 7.5 Wt Oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIPUNC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bKgJAb9PBFC9P
For batteries, don't do marine. Get CG2 Golf Cart Batteries form Sams Club or Batteries Plus. best $ per Ah around. 6v 2230ah for $100 usually. Two of those will give you power to boondock for a week.
For creating 120v power I use one of these https://www.amazon.com/Power-PICOGLF20W12V120VR-2000W-Inverter-Charger/dp/B00I36K1VQ
Except mine is a 24v variety and 3000 watts, cus I now have a bus, but that's another story.
With the above box you can charge your batteries, get 120V from your batteries if need be as well as have an automatic transfer switch when on shore power. Really nice.