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Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/reactivedogs) if you have any questions or concerns.
This is pretty textbook leash reactivity. I always recommend the book Feisty Fido as a good intro to understanding and working with leash reactivity. You can get a kindle version on amazon for less than $10 and it's a really quick read.
There are a lot of theories on why some dogs spaz out on leash and the exact reasons differ for every dog. There are "Frustrated Greeters" who just really want to say hi and others that are more fear reactive who might feel trapped being on a leash. It's hard to say without personal experience with your dog.
It takes time, patience, and a lot of love, but you will be able to work through this. There is A LOT more to all of this, but that's just some basic stuff.
A couple other random things to watch out for:
- Make sure your dog is getting enough exercise (if possible, wear himout a bit before a walk)
- Make sure he is getting enough mental stimulation (google dog enrichment)
- Make sure you are being as calm and composed as possible on walks. If you tense up every time you see a dog, you're telling your doggo that there's something to worry about. Dogs are very good at picking up on tension and stress like that and it can directly feed into their reactivity. Deep breathes, try to keep the leash loose, and redirect as calmly as possible.
I'm sure you now realize going back to the park was a mistake.
Don't punish your dog, don't use the ecollar. Punishment confuses and doesn't correct. I would hire a quality behaviorist to help you move forward. Do not got back to any place where off leash dogs play. Start muzzle training using a basket muzzle. Dogs don't mind muzzles if they are trained. Start with feeding him treats out of the muzzle. Even if another dog starts a fight in most places you are responsible for injuries inflicted on another dog. Do not delay in working with a behaviorist. Don't try to save money by hiring a trainer. This isn't a training issue.
https://smile.amazon.com/Baskerville-Ultra-Muzzle-Size-Dogs/dp/B004CRDIZQ
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/reactivedogs) if you have any questions or concerns.
That sounds like an awesome class! FYI, I use silicone travel bottles and fill them with peanut butter for our training and they honestly changed my life for the better. I’ve found that soft/puréed meat based foods or cream cheese work well too - my dog just happens to really enjoy peanut butter. Looking forward to hearing the updates!
100% agree with everything here.
Yes, muzzle train. Absolutely this.
A muzzle is for your safety, your pup's safety, and other's safety. Baskerville muzzles allow dogs to drink, eat treats, and most importantly provide peace of mind. It may prevent the worst-case scenario. Think of it as a seat belt.
Best of luck, OP.
TL;DR they are a good tool, but be careful how you use them.
Even if you don’t use a muzzle everyday, it is a good idea to get your dog used to a muzzle anyway. There are many situations where you may need one, but your dog gets extremely stressed while wearing it.
Personally, my dog wears a muzzle to the vet, because he gets very stressed there, and I don’t want him to end up biting another dog or person. I use the baskerville ultra muzzle which I have found good so far.
A muzzle should not be used as the only line of training or defence, as they can fail on occasion, and even when they don’t, the dog can still cause damage without biting. As such, your dog should still be on a leash, and all the usual precautions should be taken. The muzzle should only used as an extra tool to prevent bites from others that accidentally get too close. In other words, I wouldn’t just let them off leash together, with muzzles on, they can still hurt each other. Doing this might also make the reactivity worse.
That being said, they are good for peace of mind, and knowing that during your usual reaction training, your dog is less likely to hurt another. They are also handy at keeping random people away when on walks.
If you search “muzzle desensitisation” on youtube, there are heaps of videos on how to get your dog to like wearing a muzzle, so that it won’t cause them any undue stress, and exacerbate their reaction.
I actually do not think this is the right route here. Your dog is clearly agitated by the interaction, so introducing positive punishment (air horn) is more likely to increase your dog's agitation about oncoming dogs in the future.
Here's what I might try instead:
Teach a replacement behavior. The one that comes to mind and might work really well here is a "behind" cue. This is really easy to teach: Say the cue "behind!" and toss a small handful of cookies behind you. With practice, your dog will start associating the word with getting food behind you, making him more likely to get behind you to block oncoming dogs. You might also work on asking your dog for other behaviors (sit, lie down) while your dog is still behind you. Practice this at home and slowly increase distractions.
Ask other owners to call/leash their dogs. This is sometimes easier said than done, but IME 85% of the time the other owner is competent enough to understand that there might be some conflict.
If the dog approaches and you cannot get your dog behind you: What happens if you drop the leash? I know, I know, this sounds terrifying. But often with my leash-reactive guy who I almost always walk on leash, dropping the leash when a strange dog approaches and all else fails usually results in him being more able to greet the dog in a natural way and decrease any tension and frustration caused by the leash.
Finally: I know that sometimes EVERYTHING fails and all goes to shit. I recommend carrying spray shield for those circumstances, just so you can break up a fight if needed. This would be my last resort if everything fails and the dogs are going at it, though.
I don't blame you for picking him up. My trainer recommends compressed air like the pet corrector to stop dogs from getting near yours. I wouldn't use it for training but it would scare a dog coming towards you. https://smile.amazon.com/Pet-Corrector-Behavior-Training-Harmless/dp/B0124G4DV4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=pet+corrector&qid=1560182346&s=gateway&sr=8-3
I also would avoid a board and train program. You need to learn along side your dog. Look for a positive reinforcement trainer in your area. Also for barking out the windows, I'd recommend putting up privacy window film that doesn't allow the dog to see through but still allows light in. It helps my dog so she doesn't get so worked up inside my house.
Thanks for the reminder. It’s been an exhausting uphill battle for sure!
This past weeks challenge… getting him to drink enough water in the AZ heat (high of 117* this week). I bought two of these from Costco so there would be plenty of water for my boys… my reactive one gets scared of it when it makes the bubble noises from the water/air displacement that happens when you drink from it. And how he won’t use it. It feels like it’s always something new and there are some days I’ve just had it!!!
A few things:
Muzzle training
Find a groomer who can help you
While you have those other two pieces in place, work on cooperative care. Highly recommend Deb Jone's book, Seven Steps to Stress-Free Husbandry.
While it's not ideal to put him over threshold while you work on grooming and handling, it's also not healthy or pleasant to have mats. Sending him to a groomer in a muzzle will help buy you time and separate your training from the act of going over his stress threshold.
Thank you for your valuable feedback. She is a hound mix, perhaps some pit mashed up in there somewhere, but you wouldn't think by looking at her. And i made sure to put HOUND mix on all of her paperwork just because of this nonsense. I am so sorry what happened to your FIL's dog. I don't know how one would emotionally recover from something like that. Thanks to the feedback on this sub I have been extremely careful with my wording. Not to be crass, but where I live, if I had my concealed carry license, I would be within my rights to shoot it dead. Big yes to the sleeve, it really is magic (after only 1 day of use). Repels people like we are two positive ends of a magnet. I just can't wait to see what an effect the muzzle will have!
Heres the sleeve we are using and I like it.
I just use a fan which, being loud enough, doubles as a white noise machine. I use it for my 2 year old rescue who would growl and bark similarly at noises, and it helped calm him down a lot. Here's the fan I use which works great https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00873CICA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_3BPBXAXEGS4629ZAF72J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
We also did some desensitization work which I'd recommend. Basically I'd give him his food or a treat then open the window so he could hear more sounds while eating, and then close it right around when he's finishing up. Now, even when the fan is off, he reacts to probably 90% less noises than when we started a few months ago.
I bought it on Amazon They have different sizes but this was best for my window. Be sure to clean the window thoroughly and then be generous when spraying with water. I did it myself but it would definitely be easier with two people. I was worried it would look tacky but it actually looks good. I don’t even think anyone will notice (I live in a condo).
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/reactivedogs) if you have any questions or concerns.
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/reactivedogs) if you have any questions or concerns.
Yes!! This!! I do this with my dog and she loves it
https://www.bindisbucketlist.com. This has a lot of information on different types of stimulation.
I also really like this ball treat dispenser. Keeps my dog busy for forever. https://www.amazon.ca/Omega-Paw-Tricky-Treat-Orange/dp/B0002DK26M
Also, last but not least, hide treats around the house and have your dog sniff them out and find them!
I know how you feel. My girl has separation anxiety and reactivity to strangers. The best thing I did was buy Treating Separation Anxiety in Dogs by Malena DeMartini-Price and read it cover to cover https://www.amazon.com/Treating-Separation-Anxiety-Malena-DeMartini-Price-ebook/dp/B08D4SX4DP/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=treating+separation+anxiety&qid=1621272231&sr=8-4.
It took 6 weeks for me to be able to leave her alone in the house for 10 minutes. 4 weeks later I could leave her for 45 minutes, a few weeks later an hour and a half, a few weeks later 4 hours. Now 8 months later I can leave her alone for an entire shift with only giving her a small trazadone to start the week.
The best thing I did during this time was develop a very rigid schedule. Once she picked up on my schedule she became more confident that I would come back. Thankfully I have great friends I could leave her with when I needed to go to work so that I could progress with the training. Then later that night I would go through the various separation exercises with her. Eventually I was able to gradually transition the progress we made at night to different parts of the day.
Even still she has regressions sometimes, and believe me I know how you feel with how deflating they are. I would get so angry because I felt like I was sacrificing my life for nothing. For me the best thing to do in that case was start doing pushups in order to direct my anger energy and cool down quicker.
When you move I can all but guarantee there will be a temporary regression as your dog adjusts to her new environment. Having someone out there who can watch her while you leave would help tremendously, but I understand that will be difficult because of her reactivity. I wish I had a good solution for this but I don't, but I can empathize. I'm about to go through the same thing in fact when I move in a few months and am not looking forward to it.
These are great! I also love these ones that accomplish basically the same thing and are just a little easier to clean: https://www.amazon.com/Coghlans-Squeeze-Tubes-2-Pack/dp/B000LBURBK/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=squeeze+tubes&qid=1605710748&sprefix=squeeze+tub&sr=8-6
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/reactivedogs) if you have any questions or concerns.
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/reactivedogs) if you have any questions or concerns.
I got this one on Amazon, but there are a bunch of comparable brands. I assume hardware stores would have it too.
fancy-fix S151-60-125 Privacy Window Film Non-Adhesive Frosted Film Anti UV Stained Glass Cling for Home Decoration, 23.6" x 49.2" L https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01DVW3F82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xdC8BbDV2NRFA
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/reactivedogs) if you have any questions or concerns.
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/reactivedogs) if you have any questions or concerns.
My behaviorist turned us on to Coghlan tubes for dispensing gooey treats. Easy to wash and refill, and the spout is wider than the kids pouches so it works with our thicker mix of braunschweiger and cream cheese. You can find at camping stores or Amazon.
Coghlan's Squeeze Tubes https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001V9IOKC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VPAVEbZ1GZ9FY
My reactive dog has an extremely sensitive stomach. I also struggled with finding the right food within my budget. It seemed like everything she ate gave her bad gas and soft stools. I could definitely tell she was more upset on days where her stomach was in bad shape. She would pull more on leash, bark more at noises in the hallway of our apartment, and was more anxious about me being away. All the probiotics on the market are so expensive and I didn't want to fork out $50-$80 just to try it out. I did some research and found a recommendation on reddit that is $12.99 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Infinite-Probiotics-Dogs-Probiotic-Prebiotics/dp/B07CYKKT2B/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=infinite+probiotics+for+dogs&qid=1626293098&sr=8-5
This did the trick. She has very regular, healthy poops now and virtually no gas. I can tell she has a lot more energy and she's relaxed a lot more at home. I can tell because I have cats and when my dog was on edge, so were they. They would hide all the time with her increased barking and only come out when she was asleep. Now the cats are boppin' around as usual and I definitely believe it's because the dog is feeling better. So funny how one animal's mood can throw off the whole ecosystem! It's a good reminder to pay attention to how your dog influences your mood, energy, etc and vice versa.
ANYWAY the Infinite Probiotics for Dogs has been a huge help for us. With a low price point, it may be worth a shot. If it doesn't work, then maybe go for one of the more expensive probiotics and see how your dog responds. Just don't change too much all at once or too quickly.
I don't use the Baskerville for vet visits, instead I use a muzzle I bought from my vet that's heavy duty: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0732P23X1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I only use the Baskerville for non-vet stuff. In my dog's case, the size I bought allows him to pant fully and bark to his heart's content (unfortunate for me), and it provides at least a few centimeters of room from the tip of his nose
Most importantly, my dog is an air snapper more than he is a biter, i.e. he doesn't go after people or animals to bite (unless it's a small animal like a squirrel), he primarily snaps at the air to maintain his personal space, so in my case the Baskerville works fine for how I use it
I think a baby gate at each door you'll be using will probably give you some piece of mind. One of the ones that has the gate in the center lets you just leave it up, and helps remind you and guests to be mindful of the dog. I have been using this one for about 7 years now, and only had to replace the rubber feet things that wedge it into the door way last year. Carlson Extra Wide Pet Gate
​
For firework time, make sure that I'd make sure you or another household member can be available to soothe or check on her, that she's had her medication, and that you're blocking as much sound as possible. I don't think this'll be a whole lot different than if you didn't have guests over, given with or without you'd still need to help her with the trauma of it.
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/reactivedogs) if you have any questions or concerns.
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/reactivedogs) if you have any questions or concerns.
I’ve used the human stuff for mine before but it became difficult for me to find any locally without artificial sweeteners, which I don’t like giving to my dogs. I switched to a dog specific kind I found on Amazon - K9 Choice Melatonin for Dogs 3 mg Chewable Peanut Butter Flavor 120 Tabs
There’s also a beef flavored one from the same company but I haven’t tried that yet. I’ve always called pills “treats” so my dogs gobble them up without really tasting them anyway 😂
I just moved to a city and my trainer recommended this for my leash reactive pup because it doesn’t require a lot of room and will tire them out flirt pole
I’m coming in with a management tip, not actual training advice. Try removable “frosted glass” privacy window film on your windows. It lets the light in, but obscured any movement/people until it gets very close. Choose one with a high opaque-ness. There are tons on Amazon and can also buy them at Home Depot/other stores, and they come in a lot of pretty patterns if that’s your thing. It will greatly improve your sanity.
Coavas Window Film Non Adhesive Frosted Home Office Film Privacy Window Sticker Self Static Cling Vinly Glass Film for Bathroom Office Meeting Room Living Room (Matte White 17.7by78.7 Inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XHXU7PU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_og.9CbT1F8QRZ
This is the dog my trainer uses, and the dog I've used and my mother uses with her reactive boy. I'd recommend decking the stuffed dog out with a collar and tags. First practice with just the stuffed dog sitting still, then have a friend help by moving the dog so the tags jangle and whatnot. Find a working distance where your dog can stay calm and go from there.
Came here to say this and to add a book suggestion, which is one of the best ways to be introduced to ecollars: Larry Krohn's "Everything you need to know about ecollar training"
As it was mentioned, e collars training requires many skills that novice dog handlers do not have, namely to be able to read dogs very well and to have good timing with whatever you are doing. But with that said, low level ecollar stimulation is most likely much less stressful and damaging to a dog than an overly emotional yanking of the leash on a flat collar. When properly introduced to the dog via desensitizing the stimulation (for which this process is described in Larry's book), low level stimulation really is nothing else than a tap on the shoulder. I've read some comments here asking why would we use it then, if a verbal command does the same. Well, it's because it doesn't. Dogs become incredibly used to having this big monkey speaking gibberish all day long, while on the other hand, ecollar stimulation is something entirely new and different. Best of luck whatever you choose to do with your dog!
And remember kids, don't blame the tool, blame the fool
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/reactivedogs) if you have any questions or concerns.
I got this set off of amazon! They do a really good job and were (relatively) cheaper compared to other curtains.
Yes! Get these they work like a charm I swear! We also now get so many remarks of people asking where we got them. We also live in NYC so there is a lot for him to be reactive about haha do not pet tags
Look into Grisha Stewart’s B.A.T. training techniques; may help. The only caveat is that most of her work is geared towards suburban etc environments and you’ll need to adjust if you are in a city.
https://www.amazon.com/Behavior-Adjustment-Training-2-0-Frustration/dp/1617811742/ref=nodl_
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/reactivedogs) if you have any questions or concerns.
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/reactivedogs) if you have any questions or concerns.
We go on bike rides in place of walks with our ACD in the suburbs (we use a special leash https://www.amazon.com/Bike-Tow-Leash-Orange-Bicycle/dp/B005CS7CK6/). She's still reactive at times but the speed we go by distractions and triggers only gives her time to bark once or twice before we're past them. The range we're able to get gives her lots of new mental stimulation and the quick runs by distractions has raised her confidence a lot.
We did a 4.5 mile ride in a bit under an hour this morning and our girl Luna is currently passed out under my desk.
Idk if it’s been mentioned but you can get sleeves for you leash that say things like “nervous” or “needs space”. A safety yellow lead is supposed to signal other dog owners that your dog is nervous or reactive, but since most dog owners don’t know that, the sleeves are a great option. They can be found on Amazon for a decent price.
Max and Neo Leash Sleeves - We Donate 1 for 1 to Dog Rescues for Every Product Sold https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PJ4FWY3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OfogFbX9K1NGW
You can also get a tactical harness. ICEFANG makes a decent one that is also pretty great at stopping pulling because it has a clip on the chest. With those you can also add Molle patches to further awareness of the other people around you. I have one of these for my pup and it works great! She’s super nervous. They make them in red and safety orange as well, so visibility is high. For whatever reason I can’t get that link to work here. Go to Amazon look for ICEFANG harness 2x metal buckle.
-edited to add harness info
I would carry a pet spray for the protection of your dog and the other dogs. There are two great option. Both make a sharp hissing noise, one also has citronella. Neither hurts the dog, but should scare away the dog from following you. Biggest problem is it may scare your dog also.
Side note, I would never use the spray as directed on the package. Emergency use only. Better to scare 2 dogs than to have your dog hurt another and then have a bite record or worse.
If you are the sort that likes to gamify your progress you could check out https://habitica.com/ You can customize your goals to be training related. I found it was helpful at letting me focus on the positive.
This (Ruffwear webmaster) should be the only harness you'll ever need! My girl got wrapped around a tree on her lead and slipped right out of her rabbitgoo. It's a bitch to get fitted (she thick around the ribs) and honestly we're still perfecting it, but this is the most reasonably escape-proof harness I've seen. I recommend kikopup's videos on youtube about conditioning your pupper to love it!
Edit: Also wanted to add that the handle is sturdy and useful even for my 60ish lb dog. The vet complemented it last time we were there :)
I absolutely love my Baskerville muzzle! My rottie is able to eat, drink, breathe/pant and take treats with his on. They’re also adjustable so if the size isn’t just right, just soak it in warm water for a few and mold it to your dogs snout.
We haven’t kept it on for more than 45 minutes though (vet visits). It cuts down his reactivity dramatically.
Update: This one!
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/reactivedogs) if you have any questions or concerns.
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/reactivedogs) if you have any questions or concerns.
I’m glad you’re not hurt worse!
I work with a lot of reactive dogs and I swear by this style of harness. You can often find them discounted and used, if you are patient and check back regularly.
After one very sweet, lovable, strong, reactive dog pulled my partner down trying to get to a dog they saw, my partner had to go to physical therapy. I immediately decided that was not cool and ordered an extra large harness in that dog’s size so we would never have a gap in our toolset to cover the gap in training between us and the dog.
If you have a ping-pong dog I would recommend upgrading to a higher end version of this style or even a more tactical vest style which is a little bit more money, but a lot of my clients are very budget conscious which is why I recommend this one.
I always use the front clip. Front clip is really important because it takes away their leverage to pull you. I teach a two finger leash walking style.
We use squeeze peanut butter too! It's great cause it keeps your hands clean and you can dispense as much or as little as you want. You can buy it already in tubes or put it in your own tubes like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001V9IOKC/?coliid=I2T1NDNOXJMEHM&colid=DMJD01ABN7YO&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/reactivedogs) if you have any questions or concerns.
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/reactivedogs) if you have any questions or concerns.
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/reactivedogs) if you have any questions or concerns.
Liberty Wristband - Innovative Wristband for Dog Walking Attaches to Any Dog Leash Converting It Into A Hands Free Leash with Safety, Comfort and Control. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L4J8A5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_J1693RJ4N6F4RG5ADR1E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I use this and it’s bailed me out a couple times. It’s made for people who want to have their hands free when walking their dog, but I basically use it as a safeguard and still hold the leash. It’s bailed me out a couple times, once when I fell and dropped the leash when a dog was running towards us and another when a woman came around the corner and he jerked too fast. Both times I dropped the leash from my hand, but i still had control because of the wrist strap. My dog is 100 pounds of muscle and it’s strong enough to hold without issue
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/reactivedogs) if you have any questions or concerns.
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/reactivedogs) if you have any questions or concerns.
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/reactivedogs) if you have any questions or concerns.
I was a military wife (back in the day), so I get it - thank you both for serving!!
This is the collar I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H2L4DTK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
All is not lost, take one day at a time. Walk around your home with her on a leash, too for extra time. I have a leash/belt combo that I can attach my pups to and I walk around the house and have my hands free. I would keep the leash short, so when you move she moves - distance "away" from you is earned. Don't feel like you have to pay attention to her while she us attached to you, reward her a lot when you are actively working, reward her when you aren't (just sitting and watching a movie), but not all the time. You don't want her to to expect a treat.
My bulldog did the running out of the door thing, then down the road. We have come to a compromise, as long as he stays on the property and comes when I tell him to, neither he nor I get super stressed out about it. He does try his luck every now and then, but it is far and few between.
One of the key things that I have found is he feeds off my stress and anxiety of what is he going to do now, so I have learned to take it down a notch and it has helped a lot.
Feel free to let me know how its going or you would like more help.
I am so sorry, this makes me so very sad. Poop pup.
Are you in an area where fireworks are legal? If not, the next time they are out, call the police, video them if you can. Even if they are legal, probably not in a public park.
You could try one of the thunder shirts for anxiety.
I have tried every single harness I could find and my pups just slip right out of them if they want to. I switched to a Martingale collar https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H2L4DTK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
2 years or so, ago and none of them can slip out of it. It might be worth trying.
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/reactivedogs) if you have any questions or concerns.
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/reactivedogs) if you have any questions or concerns.
I have a high prey-drive dog that's killed another pet (before being in my care of course) so I get your situation but you just simply need to throw the thing away. Also, these are my tips:
- Your dog does NOT need constant off-leash time to be happy. Either secure your fence so that wildlife cannot get in, make a kennel run area, or use a tie-out or just simply go for leashed walks.
- If you genuinely cannot do any of this, just get a basket muzzle. It provides way more safety than an E-collar. Something like this for example would be great: https://www.amazon.com/BronzeDog-Pitbull-Amstaff-Adjustable-Leather/dp/B07MBPF7FQ/ref=sr_1_4_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=Muzzles+Pitbulls&qid=1619466993&sr=8-4-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExQVhHMkZYTjhUWUhaJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzkzNTI0MjlYRkcxRU42SEhQUyZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjgxNTIxMURTTkZFWUszSlZTUiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
- Seriously just muzzle him and stop letting him run all over the place.
My dog is rarely off-leash because of her history but she's not any worse-off for it, I just supplement with running, walks in cool places on the weekends, playing fetch indoors, doing classes with her, etc.
You could, I used the more boring ones like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R4Q5V3X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_0D7EPBNZP2CWACFWCART?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I think I have those Amgoo ones and the Windscreens4less ones, both seem to be holding up fine. 🙂
Oh another thing - for attaching the fence to your posts, you can use the t post clips or just regular ol' outdoor zip ties - my original fence had the clips, new fence I used zip ties and it's holding up fine even when my dogs jump against it (because squirrels always run along the neighbor's fence of course 🤷)
This worked for me. The collar vibrates and makes a sound that dogs don't like apparently.
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I was at my wits end when I finally pulled the trigger on this. Along with positively reinforcing when he quiets down. 5 different sensitivity settings too.
Your neighbors dogs should not be crossing the alley and coming up to your fence - period - they are off their own property and it does not matter if they are friendly or not, they are not where they should be - what if they dart in front of a car?
Is there any chance the neighbor dogs and/or your dog can get over/under/in-between the fence? I just don't want to see something happen and your dog being blamed
I like the idea a lot about creating a border between your dog and your fence, if all else fails.
I put this up (link below) - it may not be the most attractive, but gets the job done of my dogs not paying attention when people walk by, plus reinforces the fence (my fence is a semi-permanant vs in concrete, bc I am in the process of moving)
It comes in different colors and different heights and since it is along the alleyway, it may not be fashionable but effective
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07W6PYCGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_3Q5SZW8BVN9BJJG5TDJZ?psc=1
Wow. Thanks for sharing because we are literally looking for a muzzle.
I was looking at this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MCY9WM8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1Y5VQY0CFBP8H&psc=1
Do you think that would work?
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/reactivedogs) if you have any questions or concerns.
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/reactivedogs) if you have any questions or concerns.
I use a squeeze bottle too, I got mine from a trainer at our local humane society. The one I use looks like this: Dog Training Food Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A2V783O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_0SN5CYYS9VXCGG69Y2Z6 (the one with the binder clip). Really easy to fill and clean. I’m lazy so I just put canned dog food (the ground/puréed kind) in mine lol. My dog is obsessed!
I just moved to a city and my trainer recommended a flirt pole for my dog. You don’t need a lot of space and it will tire them out
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/reactivedogs) if you have any questions or concerns.
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/reactivedogs) if you have any questions or concerns.
never heard of these but love the idea of my 15 lb dog not going flying o_O
These aren't exactly what you are looking for, but are large & can be seen from a distance
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PCOKSRE/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_fabc_irLaGb73T3CR4
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DJB8H5K/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_fabc_bsLaGbMG222BT
Sure! Here it is, I would order a couple, take one outside and use for practice. It only affects what it lands on and doesn’t fog, but it’s really easy to use and safe for indoors where regular spray is not. Safe walking! Limited-time deal: SABRE RED Tactical Pepper Gel with Belt Holster – Gel is Safer – Maximum Police Strength Gel OC Spray, Quick Access Flip Top, 18-foot (5.5 m) Range, 18 Bursts – Designed for Security Personnel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004NKSPR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_dlT1_LKJ-Fb7PS2AXT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/reactivedogs) if you have any questions or concerns.
That's just the way it is unless you go with a strong prescription. We give our dog soliquin and I would say we see a 5% change, maybe a little more. If he gets really riled up anyway, maybe we give him some CBD, but like you said that's maybe a 1-2% help.
Honestly I find that truly the best thing to do is to just tire my dog out. I will take him for long walks or play a lot of fetch/tug of war. Sometimes I just don't have the energy myself to take him for a 2 hour walk after work just to tire him out though. When he was much younger, I had an an attachment for my bike that was secure and kept him at arms length. I'd take him for a trek for about 3 miles and he's be pooped for the rest of the day.
Really it's going to take a combination of things to get his anxiety reduced for the day, but if you can get them into a solid routine that is rarely changes, that also helps.
It's okay to be frustrated! Your situation is a lot like mine; my two rescues are damn near perfect dogs at home but get overexcited by visitors or walks and turn into lil demon doggies. Rescues take time to adjust. If you aren't ready to give up, don't give up! You're still getting used to each other.
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My girl didn't have leash manners when I got her, but she jogged at a perfect heel lol. So for a while, we jogged a lot! Thankfully she tires quickly so we would start our 'walk' with a jog to tire her out then work on our manners on the way back. Also, be careful not to over-tire your pup!
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I also got a harness. My girl is also half my weight and she is strong AF!!! I like that the harness gives me control over her whole body. She would just choke herself out with a regular collar, but with a harness, it was easier for me to maintain control (like drag her away from a situation if needed)
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I actually just hired a trainer to work on my dogs' manners. I'm only a week in, but I'd be happy to share what I learn as we go, feel free to DM me!
He looks fine. However, if you're concerned about his comfort want one with more padding and cushiony width, look into the Halti brand option!
I have tried both gentle leader (the face one and the harness) and my dog can get out of the harness easily if he tries, and he HATES the head halter no matter how slowly its introduced. He would literally rub his face on every tree and roll on the ground trying to rub it off. He much prefers the Prong that we used while training him. He doesn't try to get out of it and is excited when it's pulled out. We do not consider the prong as his forever collar, but we needed it to train him not to pull us to the ground to get squirrels because treats < squirrels per Goose. We have two types of Prongs that both are fine.
German Herm Springer is considered the best metal prong. I have a 3.0 and my dog is 70lbs https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0851GZZNR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_XAzRFbSEAN551?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The other one we have is plastic and not as intense of a pinch. https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000A6BD5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_GyzRFbCZ98GG6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
PLEASE learn how to use it before you get started. I used a trainer, but there are many online resources that are just as good as long as you are paying attention. Tom Davis on YouTube is a good option imo. I know he's considered controversial on this sub, but he has noted several times that you should never use correction on a dog that is fearful, so its important to know why your dog is reacting. In my case, my dog just has an intense prey drive and gets over excited about other dogs.
Well one of the things I liked about this harness was that it has two easy attachments on the back that are padded. So that I wouldn't have to put her leg through anything (because that wouldn't go over well), only have to attach in two places (instead of three or four like some harnesses), and I could clip it relatively easily without worrying about catching any fur. It's simple to put on. So my dog wasn't fully okay with it, but with some delicious encouragement I think I can get her comfortable with it quicker and easier than many other harnesses. I imagine it depends a bit on exactly what about harnesses your dog is fearful of. This one also has the advantage of having both a front and back loop to clip the leash depending on what I want in the moment.
I got it off amazon, it's the Ruffwear Front Range harness.
I use single serving salad dressing tubes I found on Amazon. Haven't tried it with a muzzle yet but Kira basically sticks her tough all over the top to lap up the goodness and it works out.
I also use the Doggone Good pouch and I really like it. But I've struggled with the same issues, as a lot of the Stasher silicon bags I use don't fit and I don't like using Ziplocks if I don't have to. Recently I've been using these for wet/messy treats and it's been game changing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C4V2GG3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Cheap and really easy to clean!
This may count as taping up your windows, but the only thing that really worked (foolproof, at least) was covering the lower half of ours with some static cling privacy film where her eyeline is. It still lets in light and we kept the upper half open so we can still see what’s going on outside, but it’s effective. Here’s what we got and it was easy to install.
I just looked at your post history and I just wanted to say that your dog is super cute! If possible, make sure your dog is under his threshold when he sees a (large) black dog. I know this is probably hard because you don’t know when you’re going to run into a specific type of dog. What is the distance/situation in which you’re exposing him to his trigger? It can be helpful to start from inside a car at a distance, for example.
This may sound silly, and I have never done it so I don’t know if it would work, but if you are having trouble with inconsistently encountering your dog’s trigger, you could get a realistic-looking stuffed dog like this standing plush black lab and work on DS/CC with your dog while someone else walks the plush on a leash from far away. Don’t let your dog “meet” it though - keep the plush at a distance so your dog doesn’t realize it’s fake
We use the walky dog that connects to a bike (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B003OYIAW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IfVsFbCY3F7VS). I think it all depends on if your pup zig zags or not. This has helped us out a ton!
They also have these lickimats that suction to the wall now FYI so you don't need to saran wrap your face lol https://www.amazon.com/Aquapaw-Dispensing-Suctions-Grooming-Training/dp/B07DKNN87F
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
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I would encourage you to explore more with him. I’ve walked through sections of my city I’ve never seen before since my dog and I moved to our current place. In fact tonight we were going to just do an hour walk then head to the park, but instead we did a 3 hour walk. He is now passed out next to me.
I understand the space issue, especially with a larger dog. I actually live in a 500 square foot apartment, which is one of the reasons we walk so much. I wish we had a yard to play in, but we make do!
Be careful about taking Pao off leash until you are sure about his recall. I know Zorro will always come back to me, but he may go chase a rabbit first which is why I use a check cord. Last thing I want is him chasing one across a busy street.
Zor and I bonded really fast which helps. He is my baby boy and I couldn’t imagine life without him. His previous owner was not prepared for the amount of activity a puppy needs, which is how I ended up with him. Even with that bond it is hard at times. He went after a rabbit hard near the start of our walk. It gets exhausting. But he settled in shortly after the rest of the walk was great.
For puzzles, these types are what I mean Outward Hound Nina Ottosson MultiPuzzle Treat Puzzle Toy https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0711Y9Y8W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pMreFbRY2CWCQ
Basically, the dog has to figure out the puzzle to get the treat.
You and Pao will get there. It just takes time and patience. He is still a baby, he will settle more as he gets older.
I had a similar injury from my dog when I spooked him accidentally and I held onto the leash. Super painful, I hope you heel fast! In the meantime, I did what the other commenter suggested: I used a hands-free leash. I already had one for running, which looks like this. This one has bungee in it, so perhaps one without the bungee part would be more suitable. If possible, I would combine this with a front-clip harness. A front-clip makes it harder to pull for the dog and easier to manage for you, since I think in this case you should focus on management for now instead of training because of your injury. I used one from Halti, but that was for my non-reactive dog so you might want something sturdier. There’s plenty of options!
Either way, focus on management and healing now. I hope these tools give you more confidence in walking so it becomes enjoyable again for both of you. Take care and I wish you the best on your finger!
Canine Friendly Short Snout Dog... off of amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R1NY0A0?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I got a large. Rosie is 56lbs and she has room to pant and can drink water and take treats. I got mom dog shamed on a boxer Facebook page because people were convinced that she couldn’t breathe with it on...because they are the ones who walk her...
Lol, Grace is both fascinated by cats and scared of them, so there isn't really an issue with cats. She did attack a chicken once, so we have an opposite problem, lol (chicken was fine!).
I'm basically following the same protocol as you are, so I concur that this works - the goal is to catch when they're in that hyper aroused state and break it before they can become reactive. It requires learning dog behavior and understanding your dog.
I would still offer treats even if he isn't crazy about them - a consolation prize is better than no prize at all! These are really convenient because they're tiny and Grace loves the bacon flavor thankfully: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007RLDT94/. According to my Amazon history, I've purchased them 22x, lol. They're cheap enough that you can try out the different flavors.
I stopped using treats for a while once I thought I had Grace pretty well trained, and I couldn't figure out why she was regressing. I started using treats again and she started listening better.
LOL @ Lucy listening to sit more ... such weirdos.
I treat my dog whenever we encounter another dog, but we're at the beginning of our training (just rescued him in May; got behaviorist last month). We avoid other dogs too. He does have a Ruff Wear No Pull Harness which makes it a lot easier and I don't worry about choking him. He's also not a big dog (beagle-lab mix; about 30-35lbs depending on how many treats he's had!), but he is very food motivated. We work on sit & "look at me" when there are no dogs around (when walking off peak times) and I give him a training treat instead of a high value treat. I do second someone else's comment about muzzle training because it will give you peace of mind.
ETA: Apollo is adorable! He looks like a cuddly guy :)
> My boyfriend could carry him like a baby and walk him around like that
LOL! Love that image. Maybe you just need one of these
​
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
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We use this waist leash because of the quality construction. The video of the guy hanging from a tree with it sold me. We have had zero issues with this one. Highly recommend.
Looks like you may have used a training acronym. For those unfamiliar, here's some of the common ones:
BAT is Behavior Adjustment Training - a method from Grisha Stewart that involves allowing the dog to investigate the trigger on their own terms. There's a book on it.
CC is Counter Conditioning - creating a positive association with something by rewarding when your dog sees something. Think Pavlov.
DS is Desensitization - similar to counter conditioning in that you expose your dog to the trigger (while your dog is under threshold) so they can get used to it.
LAD is Look and Dismiss - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and dismisses it.
LAT is Look at That - Marking and rewarding when your dog sees a trigger and does not react.
I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please [contact the moderators of this subreddit](/message/compose/?to=/r/reactivedogs) if you have any questions or concerns.