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/r/refrigeration's
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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/refrigeration:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/refrigeration:
The most popular reviews in /r/refrigeration:
https://www.amazon.ca/Commercial-Refrigeration-Air-Conditioning-Technicians/dp/1428335269
Buy that and read it , keep it in your van. It will answer almost every question besides controllers for grocery stores / refrigeration.
Enjoy the trade. There is always something new to learn and always a new way something fails..
I use a handheld steam gun made for clothes off of Amazon. Something like this:
when doing heat loads for refrigeration one has to take into account the heat losses and areas in which heat can infiltrate.. the solution for your friend may not have to be a new refrigeration system but rather a better holding mechanism. a better ice chest so to speak. something that seals tightly and also with some type of air gap/barrier in between the cooler and the exterior . those ice chests coolers that you are using are very inadequate when it comes to preserving the cold over a prolonged period of time.
look into purchasing a more expensive cooler like the YETI or RTIC for him
edit...on doing a simple google search i think i found your answer...https://www.amazon.com/JOYTUTUS-Refrigerator-Portable-Compressor-Electric/dp/B09QVFV4C2/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=Ice+Chest+Freezer&qid=1662079627&sr=8-6
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also advice him on pre-cooling the fish before placing in the freezer,, this will ensure that the heat from the fish won't warm up the cooler.
if your looking for a good book on refrigeration to gain some more knowledge, check out refrigeration for hvac techs,
https://www.amazon.ca/Commercial-Refrigeration-Air-Conditioning-Technicians/dp/130550643X
great book to understand the trade bit better.
Basically a small condenser coil (coil of copper tubing with gage port in and out) that gets submerged in a bucket of water between recovery unit and recovery tank. Condenses the hot gas output by recovery unit to cool liquid at a lower pressure. Just have to watch the weight on recovery tank bc it goes so fast.
CPS - 9866812 MT69 Molecular Transformator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009M9VU6I/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_VG23YDE8J4VHRP4HVRFJ
This is a link for one. Overpriced IMO soI made my own that works better. On hot days a tank will overpressurize and recovery machine can stall with a minimum amount of recovery done. I've recovered like 50 pounds of 410a in like an hour or so into 2 tanks using a transofrmator while working on vrf systems. Goes even faster if you put 2 tanks in series and let it push all the liquid to the last one out of the first tank
https://www.amazon.ca/Commercial-Refrigeration-Air-Conditioning-Technicians/dp/130550643X
buy that book and keep it with you, its amazing at talking about the how and why while showing diagrams, really helps.
as for the why, if you have the chart you can just look up the why of each thing using the internet.
then its about seeing it once or twice learning as you go and after a while its rare to see something new,
RIDGID 31305 Model E-110 Hex Wrench, 9-1/2-inch Offset Hex Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009W9BT0/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_0VFC5C9Q73VQ7PN6EAC0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I use this. I've never had a problem getting them off. Just did about 40 on an old Tyler equalizer rack and them things there is literally zero room.
Weather apps are very accurate... For the location in which the temperature measurement is being made from. Which is usually nowhere near where you are.
I like Wunderground for local temps. I also run two of my own weather stations that submit data to it. One at home, one at work. Right now my home is +36C, my work is +30C. "Brisbane" in weather apps (actually located at Brisbane Airport) shows +31C. Travel a little further west (<1 hour travel time) and the temps are all cracking 40C.... Summer coming.
These are designed to shutdown and protect a motor load from a phase failure, low, or high voltage event. Would also suggest a surge protector. I've use them on a lot of compressors. They can also protect against a bad contactor.
I just got myself this 5pc set very inexpensive and helps have quick access to your bits and also be organized. Would be a nice complement to the magnetic bit driver.
Linkstyle 5PCS 1/4inch Hex Shank Screwdriver Bits Holder Extension Bar Keychain Screw Adapter Drill Change Hand-held Screwdrivers and Drill Bits Holder (5 Colors) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09JS19J1D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_YDD35KMRNZ51EYYD10QM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I do the exact same thing for my tomato's, instead of rewiring T-stats I use one of these. Just plug it in and run the new temp control wire through the door hinge.
Google "garage refrigerators". I keep my fridge on my back porch, and I couldn't keep ice cream in the winter. The problem is that the thermostat is in the refrigerator compartment. If it doesn't get below about 40F the compressor doesn't run, and your freezer thaws.
With my last fridge I solved the problem with a 28W incandescent bulb in the refrigerator compartment. With my current fridge, I installed one of these Garage Heater Kits, which works like a charm. The fact that they make such a kit tells you all you need to know.
Seems like your ohms are a bit off between your S-R on your compressor. There’s also an overload usually in the inside the electrical cover of small hermetic single phase compressors. You can also check to see what amperage your compressor is drawing when attempting to run. If it all checks out, you can try installing a hard start kit Are your pressures okay as well? Do you have the nameplate of the freezer available?
How are you planning to get the correct charge in the system? I see you have a small bottle of what I assume is R134a... But without reclaiming the refrigerant from the system, pulling a vacuum, and charging by weight... I don't see how you're going to get an accurate charge in to the unit?
And if you need to be adding refrigerant... Where did the old refrigerant go? You can't just put more gas in to a unit with a hole in it (unless you're in the third world like the US where apparently dumping refrigerant is just fine).
The tap I referred to is something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Conditioner-Straight-Shut-Off-Automotive-Refrigerant/dp/B07F9YJ7PF/ref=sr_1_42?dchild=1&keywords=1%2F4%22+refrigerant+tap&qid=1613434133&sr=8-42
Okay. You might as well get a manifold along with hoses. Here’s a good basic one. https://www.amazon.com/Yellow-Jacket-42006-Manifold-Gauge/dp/B0039KT74S/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Yellow+Jacket+Hvac+Gauges+with+Hoses&qid=1613432893&sr=8-3
Forgive my ignorance, I was guessing this part was it https://www.amazon.com/Whirlpool-67003426-Thermostat/dp/B00DZU97QA by looking at my fridges part list. I don’t see any reference there to anything called a terminator, is there something ele it could be called that I should look for?
If it matters the refrigerator is a 10+yrs old Maytag JFC2089HEP
Y'all are throwing some excellent diagnostic and repair tools down, but my all time favourite uncommon tool is this magnetic umbrella holder coupled with a Costco beach umbrella.
I don't know about you, but I can't diagnose or repair for a shit when I, my tools, and an open electrical panel are all being absolutely PELTED by rain up on a roof, or, God forbid you try to change a rack filter core with water pouring into it, the shell, and everywhere else.
But it ain't just useful in the rain, no I also find it easier to diagnose and repair when I don't have a pounding headache, or find myself passed out from sitting on a baking hot roof in the direct sun all day.
Sure, you could get a tent. Do you really want to carry a tent up 3 flights of stairs and then up a roof hatch, along with everything else? Do you really want to set up a tent that demands 2+ people to set up properly, by yourself? Do you want to go running after a tent blowing across the roof of a building towards an airport taxiway because the wind picked up? (Question totally not based on personal experience, only someone stupid would let something like that happen to them, right?...)
Maybe I'm weak and need to man up. But personally, if it makes my job infinitely easier and more pleasant, why tf not use it?
11/10 would recommend. Pricey and absolutely worth it.
Oh, one other thing. Soft Knees slip em between the layers of your double front work pants, and forget about them forever. Except, every time you kneel, on gravel, on a screw, on a hot roof, cold concrete floor, all you feel is bliss and comfort. Cause FUCK having fucked up knees at the age of 33 like my first boss. I ain't about that crap. 17/10 literally cannot recommend enough.
You OWE it to yourself.
I found one on Amazon that seems like it should work, are the Supco ones any good?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008YDSH6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Qd-YEb7NP3BE1
I also did notice that when plugged into the normal outlet for the refrigerator, which is a gfci, it trips for some reason. Would this have something to do with the relay or capacitor going bad? I wound up just running an extension cord to a non protected outlet, and is how I found out what I know. Thanks for the reply!
I’m looking at something like https://www.amazon.com/Frigidaire-Built-Refrigerator-Freezer-Stainless/dp/B013XG06QA Or https://www.amazon.com/SABA-Heavy-Commercial-Reach-Refrigerator/dp/B01FRKS0AY/ref=sr_1_19?crid=QPOV5V9GU39P&keywords=commercial+refrigerators&qid=1570401807&s=appliances&sprefix=Commercial+re%2Cappliances%2C196&sr=1-19
Thanks.
Flushy-thingy: TSI 27361 A/C Flush Gun
Bad?
I've used them on cars before using the same process, I thought it was basically the same thing. But I also don't know what the hell I'm really doing, so there's that too :)
that book is excellent, lots of troubleshooting advice for refrigeration systems.
everyone makes mistakes, learn to live with making a few mistakes
Nothing beats this book for grocery stores.
https://www.amazon.ca/Commercial-Refrigeration-Air-Conditioning-Technicians/dp/1428335269
Well worth keeping In your van. Really well written and easy to read not a typical textbook.
Sporlans website has tons of information. Almost too much.
YouTube is great for electrcial and anything visual.
In the meantime, I know they have this stuff handy, can I tell them to use it to "fill in the gaps" where the gasket has deformed as a temporary solution or is that stupid?
You can insulate the compressor no problem. They are cooled by the refrigerant and the motor heat removed via the condenser, so insulating the compressor itself won't cause any problems... though personally I would leave the electrical area exposed to allow heat from the relay to escape.
Air conditioners often insulate their compressors to reduce noise and condensation, and use covers like these: https://www.amazon.com/Brinmar-SBUHD-Universal-Fit-Conditioner-Compressor/dp/B008J5H6I2
Not sure on your use of material. You can poke it around anything you think is rattling I guess. Compressors in bar bridges tend to be pretty quiet, so it could be a pipe just gently tapping away on a metal edge somewhere. Usually no fan motors associated with bar fridges, so it's unlikely to be a fan.
I got you dawg: you are looking for a peltier cooler or thermoelectric cooler. I bought a little module off Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Bigstone-TEC1-12710-Thermoelectric-Cooler-Peltier/dp/B00DYNTM04
These things are really neat. Now, bear in mind, if you buy the little module I linked or one similar, you need to affix it to heat transfer surfaces. If you don't it will burn itself out quickly. But, if this is for a class design and you have to build and demo it, this is an easy way to start and it will work.
In theory you can do a lot with these things - for example, you can put two in series to get a lower temperature.
See here, by the way:
http://www.newair.com/articles/how-thermoelectric-wine-coolers-work/
A pump? I don't think mine has a pump. Isn't it all fed through water pressure?
Anyways, I am thinking now that the culprit is the water filter housing. This part --> https://www.amazon.com/GE-WR17X11618-Filter-Assembly-Refrigerator/dp/B004H3XVX4/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1480476519&sr=1-1&keywords=ge+water+filter+housing
Does the ice maker get its water from this housing as well? Because the vibration/jackhammer sound happens whether it's making ice, or dispensing water.
Looks like its a dual capacitor according to the schematic. A 3/35μF 370V (Although a higher voltage rating is fine) capacitor is what you're looking for eg like this just a different shape.
EDIT: Didn't realise that it had been changed to two caps. Just get a 35μF and a 3μF 370V capacitor and that should be you. Also, remember that the bearings in fan motors can also fail and that may constitute some investigation.