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I found one that's similar, but couldn't find anything to accurately portray the layers on caked on black guck.
Without a before, feel like a tree in the forest, falling, with no one to hear my sound.
Something like this? Matching the color will definitely be a challenge as i am colorblind, but i can get some help with that part. Does that seem like a reasonable option for a kit, or should i be spending more if I want it to come out well?
Bike Grip tape Comes in lots of colours and would be best here, since you can make it exactly the size you need.
Typically used for road bikes but would work here just fine. I once used it to repair a stroller.
You’ll need something like this. The small spaced teeth will fit into the notches in the cassette
Park Tool Bottom Bracket Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JXO004K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GHK7BXVQFF931PN00N7F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
it kind of looks like iron deposits. You could try an iron remover that's used to detail cars. Something like this
I'd think a filler primer like this one would work but this isn't something I have much experience with. here
This too, but possibly overkill depending on how attentive to detail (some might say anal, but what do they know) you want to be.another Amazon link
I've used the kits they sell for restoring car headlights. Worked great.
I couldn't remember off the top of my head what one of the other "new" terms for sex bolts was but they are extremely common in the knife making hobby which many practice now.
Even Amazon has many choices such as these to emulate rivets.
They make spray cleaners for crystal chandeliers. (this for example) They’re usually a mild ammonia solution that dries quickly.
Unfortunately with leather substitutes this is very common and usually a professional repair costs more than they're worth. If you have a crafty side or know someone that is good with a paint brush you could try using a leather upholstery repair kit to basically resurface them. But it'll take real talent to make them look close to new. And you'll have to pull off most of the existing top coat that is already flaking off.
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Leather-Vinyl-Repair-Kit/dp/B081KY1Q3P
Unfortunately you'll have this problem with most department store brand shoes, even some that are genuine leather aren't really made to last very long.
So if you have the funds I recommend getting a quality pair of welted shoes. For a more contemporary and sleek last profile you could give Carmina a try, they make them as small as UK size 5. And most of their last shapes are a similar profile to what you have, the Norwegian Boots for example. But Carmina isn't exactly cheap.
For in between the hard to reach places you will need a dremel multi tool with wire brush attachments https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dremel-Accessories-10000-33000-Polishing-Sharpening/dp/B0078LENZC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=dremel+tool&qid=1659358321&sr=8-3
Do you happen to already have a pressure washer? For $ 32 US you can get a wet sandblaster kit to go with your existing pressure washer. There are reports that these work quite well on the kind of item you have--though it is a bit of a messy process. The 2 secrets are 1) they go through sand pretty quickly so have plenty and 2) make sure you keep the sand absolutely dry before use.
From there the usual paint procedures.
Or get a stiff wire wheel in a drill and take your time. Wear a good face mask--once you see a picture of one of those little wires that flew out and stuck in someone's eye, you learn to take precautions for what seems like a pretty benign tool.
The product I like is called Lemi-shine booster
It's a citric acid based powder designed for dishwashers but when you put a couple of teaspoons in a glass, fill with water and let it soak, it often cuts this kind of junk without being as nasty as some other products.
In your dishwasher it can have remarkably positive effects--being on a well, my glassware was always skanky looking until I started using this stuff. Sorry to sound like an ad but it is one of those products that worked so well for me that it's hard not to tout its benefits.
I also prefer a commercial stainless scrubber for glassware but the gold on this is so delicate that even being careful, it is too risky that the scrubber might hit the outside while doing the inside.
Steel wool is graded with a weird system that goes from extremely fine, "0000" (zeros), to 000, 00,0, 1,2,3,4. 4 being extra coarse and like scratching pads.
0000 and 000 are common to find in hardware stores and both will leave a fairly nice smooth finish. 0000 is almost polished. Test a small area to make yourself feel better about it before doing the whole thing.
3M scotchbrite pads come in grades up to ultra-fine also and will leave a very nice polished finish. Sometimes the shape of those is less fatiguing to use than steel wool.
Yup, it was airbrushed. The good thing is you can get a low cost airbrush and compressor and with something like this project, get good results even if you've only played around a little to get the feel of an airbrush.
And airbrushes are pretty fun to use. A little research will show some tips and tricks with templates and stencils and one can do remarkable things.
Standard acrylic paints are likely fine. Part of the trick is thinning to a proper consistency and then doing many light layers until you build to the level of color you want. It's similar to a "candy" paint job on a car where the colors underneath can be left showing through to give depth and smooth color transitions.
Here's an airbrush paint set on amazon that includes neons and metallics...might be the ticket in general for your dragon.
First...a bit hard to distinguish between stainless and aluminum other than via weight in these situations. However, if you have a really good rare earth magnet hanging around, that might help. 300 series stainless as is typically used in such things is not magnetic--except the forming process does cause some very slight magnetic properties in the stainless. With a rare earth magnet, you can often detect that slight magnetism where aluminum will have none at all. A standard magnet is not strong enough to work for this.
So, assuming either material, I suggest using something that is the equivalent of a fine grit sandflex abrasor. These are basically rubber blocks with grit added. They work extremely well when cleaning up metalwork with a "grain" as your parts have. We use them commercially to clean weld discoloration on grained stainless sheet. I also polish up the cast iron tables on my larger power tools with them. Extremely handy tool to have hanging around.
Be sure and work with the grain as perfectly as you can--cross grain work can show up a lot.
An alternative to that is a fine grit impregnated bristle brush in a power drill. It's a bit more hit and miss when matching the graining but can be better on larger pieces. Be sure and let the tips of the bristles do the cutting, so don't try and press it in as that doesn't make it work better. Another brand is nyalox...this is mostly a commercial version that works very well. I have 2 12" dia wheels (coarse and fine) mounted on a HD buffer for metal work in my shop.
If you're asking about the exterior, to my untrained eye this looks to be in excellent condition and I cannot help you there.
As for getting it to work, lighters are surprisingly easy and fun to restore. There should be several screws at the base. There should be one approximately in line with the Statue of Liberty. Carefully unscrew it and you should find a long spring with what looks like a metal cap at the end. This is the flint that makes sparks. Depending on the size of the flint and how it's built it should be easy to replace.
The largest screw on the base, when removed, will likely reveal a bed of white cotton. This is for fuel. Most stores carry lighter fluid (I was advised in the past not to use the kind of lighter fluid for barbecues, but other Redditors can chime in on this). Simply invert the lighter, pour a generous amount of fluid into the cotton, and soak it thoroughly. Don't worry if you spill some, it evaporates with surprising speed.
Screw everything shut, turn it back over and give it a few flicks. It takes a little bit of time to get the flint ground into a smooth turning shape and for the lighter fluid to wick upwards. But you should have it light with little to no problem after that.
I've seen Leather CPR do amazing things (Amazon Non Affiliate Link). A friend of mine used it on a vintage leather jacket at her store and it was like a whole new life.
I've come to realize from restoring many brass items that Brasso is absolute GARBAGE! Grab yourself some podwered. NOT the liquid, "Bar Keepers Friend"
Example on Amazon Canada, but you can literally find this stuff anywhere
Bar Keepers Friend 11514 Cleanser Powder, 21 Ounce https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0025YYHI0/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_M0YJZHETD9VB1B1JSQ1X?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Mix with a little water to make a paste and use a clothe to gently run the brass. Leave it on for about 1 minute then rinse off with warm soapy water, dry it.
If you don't have a Grinder and polishing wheel you likely have a drill. Get yourself a 3" polishing wheel yellow or white from Amazon and some red or brown jewelers rouge compound to buff that sicker to a shine.
FVIEXE 20PCS French Cleat Picture Hanger 2 Inch, Aluminum Z Clips Z Bar Hanger Wall Mounting Bracket Hardware Kit for Hanging Mirrors Pictures Headboards Cabinet Panels Shelf Whiteboard Art Frames https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09H343KFF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_MQYG29V32XR3PYRXZ69H
My understanding is that specific gravity (SG) is a relative difference of density in the liquid compared to water. Evapo-rust, when new, has a SG of 1.042, and when spent has a SG of 1.085. A hydrometer can be used to measure this (here's an example hydrometer; I have not used one of these in many years).
Car detailing brushes, water, soap? Nurkul 11 Pieces Auto Detailing Brush Set for Cleaning Wheels, Interior, Exterior, Leather, Including 6 pcs Premium Detail Brush (Black), 3 pcs Wire Brush and 2 pcs Automotive Air Conditioner Brush https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077C5M972/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VBD82T3K4AHN7TKF18XA
I used SmartStrip on a salvaged table! That stuff was amazing! And 100% biodegradable!
You just need to brush or spray on a rust inhibitor, simply oil which will prevent or at least slow down any corrison. Something like this is highly rated
For clear plastics I personally would go with a headlight restoration system. That would give you the steps of sandpaper grit, polish, and UV clear coat that you would need to get them clear. Something as small as gauge plastics might be better with a hand kit, but they do make drill-attached ones as well. I like the 3M for headlights: https://www.amazon.com/3M-39084-Headlight-Restoration-Kit/dp/B006VB8JTQ/ref=sr_1_28?dchild=1&keywords=3m+headlight+polishing+kit&qid=1605231291&sr=8-28