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Hook it up to a kill-a-watt (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RGF29Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_t1_l6GRFbS80F6YT) and test its power consumption. I am pretty sure they probably use less wattage than you think. Especially after it initially warms up.
Yeah, the RV sales industry makes used car salespeople look good.
First thing you need to figure out is how much power you are using. I would recommend a shunt style ammeter. I installed one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0824X5MKM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
That will show you how many amps are being used in real time, as well as (once setup) a gauge showing how much battery capacity is left. The silly gauges they install in RV's are a joke.
Armed with actual power usage you can try to figure out how to get the power you need. For example, if you have 160amp hours of battery and they get down to nearly empty you need to figure out how to get 160amps back in there *while still powering the fridge*.
Also, you need to be concerned about damaging batteries with too many deep discharge cycles. Staying above 50% discharge is good for battery life... occasional deeper discharge should be okay, but avoid if you can.
If it turns out to have no purpose and it has 12 volt power coming to it, you could replace it with one of these, if you are ever short of USB power ports. Might as well make it useful.
I ordered this one last year.
My RV battery was absolutely fine over the winter, and worked fine this year.
My mom's car that I took in, had a battery that was dead/nearly dead, and I had a few issues for the first few weeks that I had the car. I got this hooked up (connected under the hood, and closed the hood) for a few weeks, and the battery was fine after that and I haven't had to use it since. We'll see how good the battery is now that the weather is getting cold again, but it worked very well at the end of last winter.
I'm thinking of a locking "boot" that prevents the tire from rolling, but I'm open to other ideas.
Yeh this is the best advice. I might add that I trust electrical heating more than propane. I would not leave a propane heater running because it has an open flame. I like to use a all metal utility heater and I set that on top of a metal cookie sheet. They have no open flame, a thermostat, and all metal ones, if a switch burns out on them, they won't melt or catch on fire. This is the model I like. These are not however very energy efficient and I consider an all metal electric oil heater my next option.
Molding Trim Screw Cover. comes in various widths. (look at the last picture on the link below)
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I'd check the battery, sounds like it may be not operating properly. We ran a single group 27 and could get a week of fridge, lights, water pump and occasional furnace use without any solar at all. With the 100watt solar we could pretty much use as much electricity as we wanted.
To find out how much power you use/need, install a shunt based battery monitor. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0824X5MKM
With that you can monitor power usage and charge rates as well as battery state of charge.
I have multiple sets of these in the toad and coach. They work great at night, easy interface, and being USB-C makes them easy to wire, while allowing the cameras to remain modular if you want to move them to get coverage at a new destination. I keep the "rear" fisheye camera mounted to the bus door. I put a lot of signs/messages in the window (i.e. "will be gone by 6pm, please call if there's an issue). It's nice to have a camera pointed right at the person, as they read the sign.
Thanks for the feedback.
I don't know the exact brand of hitch I have but I'm basically running this design but with dual sway control instead of a single.
https://www.amazon.com/Husky-30849-Weight-Distribution-Control/dp/B004RCSKPO
We got ours from someone else in our RV FB Group who bought it, took it out of the box, never installed it, and was selling it for half the price it costs new. That said, here's the one we have (1st Gen). They also have a 2nd Gen for the same price, but I haven't used that one personally. https://smile.amazon.com/weBoost-Connect-RV-471203-Motorhome/dp/B07BWFYWNN
Close the valve, put as much water in as you can, add black tank chemicals, let it sit over night. If you are able drive the camper around a bit to see if you can dislodge anything. Dump the tank. If it cleared a good bit out use a cleaning wand with the valve open and get it good and clean. I use this wand.
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https://www.amazon.com/Camco-40103-Holding-Rinser-Shutoff/dp/B000BPB346
Just renovated a 2007 keystone and replaced the old 6 gal Suburban with a new Furrion 2.4gpm tankless. Install wasn’t bad at all. Just make sure whatever you get fits the same size opening in the wall. Like you said, they’re not cheap but was well worth it for us. Here is the one I got:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DW4GM81?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_WKZ6QDHTWAR2XEDQMB97
Oh, and a bug lantern, especially if you have a habit of leaving the screen door when you take things in and out of the RV.
This may sound like a weird one but magnetic door stops. I live in a TT and magnetic door stops have been one of the best things I added. Interior RV doors are very light and magnetic door stops help to keep them out of the way. Also, gas struts for the storage space under the bed.
The best weather app for iOS is Dark Sky. Hands down I had then when it was on android and hands down was the best weather app out there. Apply bought it and did away with the android version.
My preferred android weather app currently is Shadow Weather. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.noaimgames.shadowweather&hl=en\_US&gl=US
This magnetic camera or similar will have a ton of uses. Bluetooths to your phone via an app. Backing the trailer into sites is the obvious use, but it also can be put on your truck right above the hitch, it makes lining the two up a video game and much less shouting, which would be nice with a cranky 2 yr old.
It also has impressive battery life, you can stick it on your canopy bars to act as a yard cam when in camp for peace of mind. It won't stick to fiberglass or aluminum siding though, so you do have to be creative. You can also leave it on a picnic table and put some cups or other items around it for camouflage.
Amazon. Search for “rv shower faucet”. Doubt you can find parts, but a new faucet just like that won’t be expensive or difficult to replace.
Laguna Brass 3220WT RV/Motorhome Two Handle Non-Metallic Shower Diverter Valve, White Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076J7Y5L4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_6K5S5VAF3VSBJ1MF5PCZ?psc=1
This how I connect my Blackstone griddle to the camper. Adapter goes on griddle end, and then I just one of the camper grill supplied hoses to connect to the underbelly gas line.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XJ7KN8M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I have one of these with an AT&T ipad plan, but you can use any SIM from any carrier. You can get it from Amazon for 10% off using the coupon code 10GRIFFIN. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091BL1Q44/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9Z4MDBZ66R1GEE9J38QX?pldnSite=1
Take a look at this, we used it in our Class C that didn’t have leveling jacks. It will tell you how low each tire is in inches. If you use the orange leveling blocks that click together, each is one inch in thickness. It worked very well
LogicBlue Technology LevelMatePRO+ Wireless Vehicle Leveling System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083ZMZPR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BNZ92VQE75Z7FY46T66C
These little transfer pumps are workhorses,, are quiet and efficient. You can spend much less than what this one costs and they come in 12volt options as well. https://www.amazon.com/WAYNE-PC4-Multi-Purpose-Suction-Strainer/dp/B0002YQUBM/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?adgrpid=55725766973&dchild=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwytOEBhD5ARIsANnRjViy_aDCTZChyrm0R658kh2khJhnsPsYwAEJrbmmF5WRkZd2WEvfc5YaAlsAEALw_wcB&hvadid=2747480...
My boyfriend and I are full-time and stationary in Montana in an early 90' Nomad TT. Our TT is under 30" bumper to bumper and has no slide outs, which means we have a smaller space to heat. The site we are on has full hookups, which makes things a bit easier on us. We don't need empty and refill our tanks. We have heat tape on all outside pipes and we are fully skirted with insulated wood skirting that my boyfriend built. In addition to our normal propane heat we also use a space heater so we don't run through our propane too fast. We have heavy black-out drapes on most of the windows and the doors. We also got these insulated vent covers from Amazon, which have been really great.
It is possible to winter in an RV if you prepare correctly and have a good idea of what you are getting into.
I am a 6 foot 250+ lb guy and purchased this mattress back in 2018 and love it. If I had to replace it I would deffinately get the same one.
We are very new to RVing too but we used to go camping a lot. We use an Amazon basic set that is pretty durable!! We also have small boxes inside that cabinet and one of those like rubber dumping towels between plates.
They are super cheap but of good quality!! Check them out:
AmazonBasics 6-Piece White Dinner Plate Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0157FD9MS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XT-DDbYC6YA31
Not a fan of paper or plastic either!!
Oh, and I did replace all my mason jars from home with these (not an affiliate link). They fit nicely in the cabinets and seem to be keeping everything fresh.