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You need fusible web. HeatnBond is one brand. You iron it on whatever fabric you choose (assuming it’s safe to iron on silk setting), peel off the backing and iron the whole shebang together. Also sold as Wonder Under, Steam-a-seam, Wonder Fuse. You want paper-backed.
This part is the forward needle guard, and is attatched under the stitchplate. It helps prevent skipped stitches on certain difficult fabrics. If everything works fine for now, there is absolutely no harm in continuing to use the machine without this part installed.
Here is an amazon link to a replacement stitch plate showing this part. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XD5SRKF The needle guard should be adjusted to lightly or almost touch the needles at bottom center of the needle travel.
One brand is called Bobbin Saver
BobbinSaver Sewing Machine Bobbin Organizer - Holds 20+ Bobbins - Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018N5MJ2/
The other is called Bobbin Ring
https://www.joann.com/bobbin-ring/13059571.html
They will hold either of the two basic bobbin sizes.
They work very well but sometimes the shape is awkward if you store it in a drawer or box.
You will want some version of a crinoline hoop slip.
Sorry for the long link. If you get a slip with the horsehair hoop or hoops closer to the bottom you will get a look similar to the picture you have. If you get hoops closer to your waist, it will poof out from up there. Hope that helps
A magnetic seam guide might help as it gives you a solid edge to line the fabric against.
It's an easy enough plan, make sure you reinforce the holes in the cloth with a grommet. Also, depending on the fabric it may not block as much light as you would like. I would suggest actual blackout cloth, which you can find at any fabric store.
On a different note, you should buy a larger cutting mat. 9x12 isn't going to cut it for most sewing projects and will require you to constantly shift the fabric, which is annoying and will mess up your cutting lines.
I have this one. It's18x24 and I still find that I'm cutting fabric longer than the mat and will need to reposition.
Scalloping shears!
Scalloped Pinking Shears, P.LOTOR 9.3 Inches Stainless Steel Handled Professional Dressmaking Sewing Scissors Zig Zag Fabric Craft Scissors (Scalloped) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C8C0HH8/
Gingher’s pinking shears
Gingher Pinking Shears 7 1/2" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A3USI3S/
This might seem strange but what you are looking for is called Wax-based Tailor's Chalk. It is easily removed by ironing which is really convenient. I thought wax based was the only type of Tailor's Chalk so I was caught off guard when I bought some, I think Dritz, and it would not iron away. I found clay chalk much harder to get rid of. I Googled Wax Tailors Chalk and this came up on Amazon. I did some additional research and found this manufacturer's page with a description of the two PaintMarkerSource.
This for sure!
That would have been so awesome! Machines are hard. I had someone give me an older one thinking the same thing and I could never figure it out to use it, and it hadn’t been well-maintained internally even though it looked good.
I will say that this is in my Christmas list for better notions organizer:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0892GTCT5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5YoTFb5Y7XA65?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I would really encourage you to learn how to grade patterns. I know it sucks that most companies don’t have inclusive sizing but this will give you the ability to take any pattern and make it fit for you.
Professional Pattern Grading for Women's, Men's and Children's Apparel
Concepts of Pattern Grading: Techniques for Manual and Computer Grading
Swedish tracing paper is crazy expensive. I use medical paper, the kind that they roll out on a doctors table before you sit on it. You you can also find similar thin papers in other areas of craft stores.
YouTube is a fantastic place to learn, but it also has a crazy number of “self-taught” people who have no real clue what they are doing.
I’d trace a stable fabric with chalk if I had to, like a wool Melton, but never a delicate fabric.
I use a refillable heart chakoner It’s expensive but refillable and it’s always worked for everything I’ve used it for.
Yes you'll need a low shank foot, most of them are fairly universal.
I found this one that looks exactly like what you have... its a blind hem foot but it sounds like you are using it like an edge guide so either would work for!
With a spring
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D7SG6FW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_5WYUFbCGFZBT2
Without the spring
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N2PJN6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_LVYUFbP56GEGS
Amazon has them 100pc 3/16" Metal Eyelets Shoes Clothes Crafts - 4 Colors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B84NRMU/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_J0Svub06G78A2
Looks like you need a specific tool to attach them We R Memory Keepers Crop-A-Dile Eyelet and Snap Punch, Blue Handle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EWPYXG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_t1Svub1HCK8F0
I found this on Amazon, is this what you're looking for? https://www.amazon.com/TWAYRDIO-Charging-Interface-External-Backpacking/dp/B07BT6T34Y
I have couple of scissors prices from about 6 EUR to about 20 EUR, Mundial, KIA, Klasse, the more expensive the better and 20 EUR isn't cheap for me. Only the sky is the limit in the prices.
If the antique one's works for you there is no reason not to use them. In the field of scissors there is little to invent and innovate. Maybe get pair of microserrated ones they are the best for slippery fabrics! And this type for ripping the seams https://www.amazon.com/HTS-144C7-Stainless-Squeeze-Scissors/dp/B01CZ2RDKU/ref=sr_1_12 not necessarily with curved blades. I adore them and almost never use for ripping the seams conventional seam ripper.
You should be able to find a variety of snap-on adapters for those shankless sewing machine feet. Here's one on US Amazon to give you an idea of what to look for. Some sets even come with one.
Would it be prudent to get the 27 stitch model instead? The difference in price isn't massive (unless I get the like 49$ refurb 17 stitch model), is having more stitch options better or would it be better to go extremely cheap noe and upgrade to a nicer model once I am more established?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Refurbished-Brother-17-Stitch-Sewing-Machine-RJX2517/52101701 17 stitch
There is also a bundle of the 17 stitch and a case for 62$.. That would probably be good for me actually since I have no dedicated sewing space?
Definitely, fabrics like satin will have a mark if you use normal pins, even the dressmaker pins are too thick in my opinion. I found these on Amazon for my satin dress project and they literally saved my life. Dressmaker pins are 0.60 mm, whereas these I'm sharing are 0.50 mm trust me, it makes a difference. I recommend buying 2 packs because it's a small box, and if you are making a big dress, you'll run out of pins. If you don't buy this, just try to always find pins that are extra thin 0.50 for your delicate fabrics. Use normal pins for any other fabric. extra thin pins
Thanks for your comment!
DL from this link https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.sewinglab
If you're iOS, we are releasing iOS version in June!
I use these little locking plastic boxes, and then I write on the top of each compartment lid what needles are in that compartment. I think I bought my first one at JoAnns but have since ordered a few more from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00114OV90/ref=dp_iou_view_product?ie=UTF8&th=1
I just ordered some of this to use as lining fabric. It's a knit, so would be stretchy, and not sure it would work well if you're going for a woven material like in the image, but this material I got is nice and lightweight.
Fabric Merchants Stretch Jersey ITY Knit, Yard, Ivory https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O2HFR5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_Mzi-FbAF0YNWK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Alternatively, I'd suggest you could cut the bodice pieces twice from the same fabric you're using for your dress and just line it with the same material inside and out
You can do it with a speedy stitcher or similar. Depending on where you're sewing it on you may want some reinforcement opposite the strap. Here's an Amazon link, but you can find them even cheaper. Harbor Freight for instance.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HGIJQ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_soS3Fb5C767PH
Hit YouTube for how to use it (that's easier than written instructions.) Practice on some scrap first, and pin your work in place when you do the deed!
“Patternmaking for Fashion Design” by Helen Joseph Armstrong was my class text book. It comes in paperback for around $25, US terminology:
https://www.amazon.com/Patternmaking-Fashion-Design-Joseph-Armstrong/dp/0135018765
The machine will function without the slide plate, but it'll be pretty inconvenient. You should be able to get a new one at almost any sewing machine repair shop, or even check ebay. In fact, here's one from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Sewing-Machine-Slide-Plate-163477/dp/B0044XYQ7C
Check this out: amazon link
I've never seen feet that attach like this, but then all my machines are old (newest is mid-70s) so I'm used to the simple low-shank standard. From some of the info in the reviews on Amazon, it looks like they need an adapter piece.
I was wrong, it's part of the "needle plate". You replace the whole plate (amazon link) but I'm not sure on just that piece of it.
Thank you for the reply, if you don't mind I have some questions on your comment:
1) >Get some beeswax for your thread. So this is just to pull the string though so it doesn't get tangled?
2) So in general, silk thread is the way to go? Any place where i can buy silk thread by the colour? Best I could find on Amazon was this one that has black and white. Is polyester fine too? Maybe like these?
3) what's stay stitch? Where do i find a bottle of it?
Thank you for the help
I would go for it. I wish I had made mine. Although yardage of fabric is expensive and companies that sell tons of dresses using white silks and chiffons have cost savings that you won’t find most likely. my dress was in the $500 range and I couldn’t have made it for that.
I would make the dress first in a navy or black and get a good practice round. I would use French seams on the bodice and skirt side seams. I think putting some grosgrain ribbon inside the waist will help support the weight of the skirt and keep it looking fresh and sitting right on your waist. You could use some cool fabric for the top layer of the bodice, like something vintage and have it be your “something old”
The hem will be really tricky. I used to work in bridal alterations and we used this chalk marker for hems. I think you could probably return it to amazon or resell it when you were finished. Otherwise you’ll have someone pinning for hours and probably not be straight at the end of the day.
If you can’t find a sewing pattern that works, it would be pretty simple to draft yourself using measurements.
this is the fabric i’m using (it was linked in a youtube video): CRAFTY CUTS 2-Yards Cotton Fabric, White Solid (22164-G55583) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004FEEXC8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ka0KFbZX8K1H9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
if you have a moment, could you link me an amazon fabric that would work? thank you so much for answering and by no means do you have to do that for me.
After learning the very basics and not sewing for years I wanted to get back into little projects and needed a good reference book with info. Here is a book I bought and has been very helpful with all the terminology and sewing notions. School of Sewing by Shea Henderson. It comes with easy projects to build skills and wonderful images and explanation. School of Sewing by Shea Henderson
The large ones with a tri-pod run around $80 on Amazon, but for what you're doing you could get away with one of these tabletop ones https://www.amazon.com/iMartine-Dimmable-Ringlight-Streaming-Brightness/dp/B083BG4LQ3
Use end cutters on that D shaped ring between pull and tab.
Example of end cutters -- no endorsement for this brand implied, as I have not used the brand: https://www.amazon.com/Jewelry-Pliers-Cutting-Nippers-Install/dp/B09X9BMF1F/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?keywords=end+cutting+pliers&qid=1671073146&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzM09BOU5IQ1ZSRkFNJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMTcx...
There are a lot of crap YouTubers. They often have a lot of confidence in their self-taught ability, and then they proceed to teach the worst technique. I’d get a good book first so that you can approach YouTube with enough knowledge to be a little skeptical.
Pattern Drafting for Fashion Design is common for those learning it for the industry.
You can ask questions at r/patterndrafting
Are you using pinking shears?
if I got the exact same fabric as the dress would that help? and here's the link to the dress . All the slips I have still show through the dress because the necklines don't match and it makes it look weird :(
I'm not sure how thick this is from the looks but:
def try a longer stitch, as some thicker things have a hard time with short stitches.
The tape under the foot is also a good tool to use.
They do also make feet with a more even pressure that can make pushing the fabric through easier as it has a wheel that rolls the fabric forward instead of pushing which can be hard on the machine if it's too thick. Here's a few links to show u what i mean, thankfully they aren't super expensive:
I started with this book Sew Everything Workshop , it has mostly clothing and some household patterns. I like the way it’s organized, the beginning of the book goes over all the different techniques, then each pattern lists what techniques you’ll need to use and on what page you’ll find them earlier in the book. The patterns are simple and great for beginners. I know Tilly and the Buttons, one of the better known indie pattern companies, also released a beginner sewing book but haven’t used it myself.
A word on fit instead of construction. With this dress, fit is going to be VERY important. Too big and it won't hold its shape and will pucker/wave along the boning and too small and the seams will noticably pull and possibly split in the back at the zipper. So make sure you work on fit on that practice piece. This might be of help and it's on sale on Amazon for CyberMonday deals.
A non nail-clipper, non-sewing scissor alternative is a Thread Cutter Pendant. Some airports disallow nail clippers.
Amazon came up with this one: https://www.amazon.com/Clover-Thread-Cutter-Pendant-Antique/dp/B000YQH0K8/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?crid=VTT0HYZ2ZBQL&keywords=thread+cutting+tool+necklace&qid=1668658405&sprefix=thread+cutting+tool+necklace+%2Caps%2C299&sr=8-6
Vogue V9288 is exactly what OP needs. I'm including this link cause my mobile wouldn't open the pics in the link you gave and OP needs to see this. I'm making this next week.
Thank you for responding! I thought I tried that, but I’ll try again! The bobbin looks like the one pictured here: https://dictionary.cambridge.org/us/dictionary/english/bobbin
And the case looks like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Sewing-Machine-Bobbin-Loading-Machines/dp/B0881JFSYM/ref=asc_df_B0881JFSYM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=459543177098&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8455687441836420754&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&...
This looks the same as what I bought at the store
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B097GNBLPH
I found the bobbin annoying so I just leave the back open and leave the big roll of thread connected
possible non-sewing solution: slap one of of those sunburst headbands on top of the hood (in front of the petals if they tend to fall forward, behind if they tend to fall backward) or under the hood with some holes snipped to let the spikes through.
Here's an example of the right mesh:
Here's what comes up first for "bug suit" "mosquito suit" "mesh suit" but I'm sure there's lots of options:
This is the pattern https://www.amazon.com/Simplicity-Pattern-7273-Misses-Shift/dp/B003W62FN4#immersive-view_1665926510265
Now everyone knows my skill level. ☺️ It only has two pieces, front and back. So I can’t take off the sleeves. You’re right, it’s cotton. I also have some beautiful linen fabric I hoped to use but I gotta get this cotton version figured out. 😏
...like buttons, but not.
Here's a random example from Amazon:
ok, i looked again and I found two that look similar
I got some snaps from Amazon that turned out to be useless for everyday wear because they require the strength of Thor to open them. They might actually be perfect for this. Kenkio snaps
You might want to check out the Drape Drape books. Some of the Japanese patternmakers do some cool, sculptural styles.
I bought this one and I really like it! I really like how you can change the speed and found ut really helpful. I only struggle with catching the bobbin if that makes sense
Get some of this stuff. Follow the directions, measure the amount of the garment you cut off carefully! (Voice of hard earned experience.).
If you want to stitch it after using the iron on, it will be easy to handle. Personally on kids clothes I use a 0.5 width and adjust the length using a test scrap.
SINGER | Pintuck Presser Foot, Embellish Clothes & Linen, Also Made for Twin Needle Use - Sewing Isn’t that the way?!?
Made Easy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G6TYUYQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_59D8PJMFCMJ5518HCQZ7
Kalevel 3pcs Pintuck Presser Foot 5 7 9 Groove with Twin Stretch Double Needle Set for Singer, Brother, Babylock, Janome, Elna, Euro-Pro, Simplicity, White (4pcs Set) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PMNFTMY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9WC91NNP57VGQFTMGPXH
Those should fit
Adding to this, I used It Stays! Body Adhesive to hold gloves up. I did eventually have to reapply but it worked great.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07K3B4JVR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0P05RJFK20JZE0M2EQ2S
You have a standard foot on your machine, in order to use a snap on foot like that you need an adapter like this:
Snap On Low Shank Adapter Presser Foot Holder for Brother Singer Janome Toyota Kenmore Low Shank Sewing Machines by Stormshopping https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07PSLK968/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_8BA6TM4NSQZPQHG7RCBB
Then you just loosen the screw, remove the foot on your machine, put the adapter on and then snap on the new foot.
Spool pins are easy and cheap. The “spool felt” is just a disc that sits over the pin and makes sure your spool spins freely.
2 Pieces Metal Vintage Domestic Home Singer Sewing Machine Spool Pins + Bobbin Winder Tire + Red Felt Pad Thread Holder Domestic Home Sewing Machine Spare Part Fits 27 28 66 99 15 15-91 15-88 15-90 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CP4KT86/
Also have this one it's cheaper SINGER | M2100 Sewing Machine With Accessory Kit & Foot Pedal - 63 Stitch Applications - Simple & Great for Beginners https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086LJDSQK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_1HWQAAV0Y6YHN23V3R6Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is what I was thinking
SINGER | 4411 Heavy Duty Sewing Machine With Accessory Kit & Foot Pedal - 69 Stitch Applications - Simple & Great For Beginners https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003VWXZKG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_J31RHFT738WDCVAY7WWJ
I have this one. I mainly got it because it's tall. It's also very sturdy and does NOT wobble.
It came with a metal thing on the end which I think would work for an iron with a separate water tank. I would not work with mine and stuck out into my walkway. It was held on by 4 rivets, which I drilled out, and then removed the metal bracket.
I would use white chalk in a shade that shows up on white. Another option is to use a hera marker, which makes a crease and then to thread trace over the crease. Yet another way would be to do tailor tacks and loop basting with thread through the pattern itself -- you might want to copy the pattern first.
I would not use colored pens or markers of any kind, including Frixion markers, and certainly not colored dressmaker's wax paper.
don't have much experience with plushie making, but the base design reminds me a lot of these pkmn plushies, so maybe you could look at photos of them for ideas on how to construct it? best of luck to you either way!!
These roller chalks (link below) are great for a fine line on your fabric. I save the blue powder chalk for any lighter fabrics and fill up the white with talc when it runs out! Korbond Tailors Wheel Plus Twin Pack of Chalk Refill Capsules, Multi-Colour, 3 Piece Set https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07CZYZ1N5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KMR12C2WD7PQDJZ9355M
Frixion Pens will be you best friend. They disappear under heat, so just a light ironing will get rid of the pen marks.
https://www.amazon.com/Pilot-Retractable-Erasable-Assorted-Disappear/dp/B009QYH644?th=1
I use a magnetic seam guide. It has a very powerful magnet that won’t slip or move from where you place it. Universal Magnetic Seam Guide https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y2DJVYZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_42T3XNNW7ZHED5AQZ6W7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'm currently sewing this one which is pretty similar!
Vogue Patterns V9076 E5 Misses' Gathered Dress with Bishop Sleeves Sewing Pattern, Size 14-22 (9076) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00TS6DUQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_SPRWKPA0QXYAV5E4WXKS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I use medical exam table paper by the roll. It is closer to tissue paper so I’m not sure it’s quite what you’re looking for but it has served me well.
Example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00430OQ7G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Z2ZEM79G63ZQRR3CDMKR
I agree with most of what was said. I would say that if you have a satin dress like this you could buy a larger size, cut accordingly and sew the pieces you cut to close the seams. Safety pin the day of and add the flowers there.
First, just FYI, the original seam is done by a coverstitch (as are almost all commercially sewn knit hems). A coverstitch is similar to a serger, but doesn't cut. Twin needles on a regular machine are really a home sewing thing.
I have found that sometimes on a regular machine it is almost impossible to avoid waviness in very stretchy knits without stabilizing the seam. I use light stitch witchery. It is essentially a really light strip of double-sided fusible interfacing. You just use your iron to fuse it in the fold of the hem.
You could also try using a walking foot, if you have one.
What about a shell top? Okay with fabric and trim.
https://www.amazon.com/Look-Sewing-Pattern-Misses-6-8-10-12-14-16/dp/B002L853C4
https://www.amazon.com/Simplicity-Pattern-Misses-Pants-8-10-12-14-16-18/dp/B00MB8CHTQ
That might help. I actually have a 110 year old singer 42-5 originally designed for sewing buggy tops. I have a servo motor on it so it goes very slow. and it will sew any material (including cardboard. I assume you have a household machine, and you are trying to sew thin vinyl, correct? I have seen these for household machines. This may indeed help. https://www.amazon.com/SINGER-Walking-Quilting-Low-Shank-Machines/dp/B00G6TZRUM?th=1
Tricot comes in different deniers, the same way pantyhose does because it is made the same way. This is what I bought and made slips from: https://www.amazon.com/Somerset-Industries-Denier-Tricot-Fabric/dp/B002PCBRI0/ref=sr\_1\_19?crid=121TF7NOOMHNZ&keywords=tricot%2Bby%2Bthe%2Byard&qid=1646001674&sprefix=tricot%2Bby%2Bthe%2Byard%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-19&th=1
I’ve had good luck using the Velcro that is designed for cable ties. It’s thinner and softer and doesn’t attract so much lint.
I like something like this for children's clothes, especially baby stuff.
Kam Snaps has some great presses and hand held presses. You can order many different sized dies for the different snaps . You can also get a slightly cheaper presses from amazon (no brand name) I have one of these I got a few years back and you can get dies there also.
Grommet Press (can use different dies with it for snaps, etc
Woah doing some research on the brands mentioned and found that some machines do embroidery?! Are these type of machines also good for all the normal stuff?
Brother SE600 Sewing and Embroidery Machine, 80 Designs, 103 Built-In Stitches, Computerized, 4" x 4" Hoop Area, 3.2" LCD Touchscreen Display, 7 Included Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074F8TZNH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_4JN4JCSJW25FB57XR5D8
Very helpful! Someone recommended this brand - what do you think? Husqvarna Viking Jade 20 Sewing Machine https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0757VK1YX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_H6P83N431B9XGBVN55J5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
When I took a swimwear class we overlocked this clear elastic to the straps before flipping it into a tube. Then we sandwiched the strap between the lining and outer layer and overlocked again and flipped and topstitched.
You can buy a replacement foot pedal at Amazon for $21.50. Their seller has it in stock. According to sewing parts online.com, this pedal is a match for your machine - but they don’t have it in stock.
It is worth replacing the pedal. These older machines are sturdy and hard working. Often better at handling heavy fabrics than many new machines!
To stop dress showing more than you want.. try this.
Fearless Tape - Double Sided Tape for Fashion, Clothing and Body (50 Strip Pack) | All Day Strength Tape Adhesive and Gentle on Skin and Fabrics | Transparent Clear Color for All Skin Shades https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K2CMFVM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_481CZFB92FWVXJ3QPKB0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
There are a lot of fusible tape products. Stay away from hem products. I would try https://www.amazon.com/Pellon-Steam-X40-Yards-Tape-White/dp/B00DV8XPEG/ref=sr_1_37?crid=XIMD2ZYY1VXL&keywords=heat+and+bond&qid=1640054132&rnid=2941120011&s=arts-crafts&sprefix=heat+and+bond%2Caps%2C136&sr=1-37
Use a pressing cloth and keep the iron as cool as you can. Try it first on your least favorite pair. Good luck!
There are different materials for thimbles that don’t go all the way around the finger/thumb. Something like this might be worth a try. There are also these adhesive patches, but I haven’t tried them.
I used Coffee bag closures.
They're very comfortable and sturdy.
To create a circular skirt start with determining the size of the "waist" using one of the handy online calculators such as Calculating Size for Circles. When you enter the waist as the circumference, it will tell you the radius of the circle you need to draw.
It sounds like you want an elastic waist you can pull on so you would use the hip measurement which would give you a radius of 8". For the hem you would add 22" so the radius for the hem would be at 30". You could cut this from 60" wide fabric. But as your fabric is 48", you would need at least two panels.
If you are doing seams you could make the skirt more fitted by using your waist measurement and put in a zipper.
The easiest way I have found to draw a circle is to draw a straight line marking off the center of the circle, the waist radius, and the hem. Hopefully you have a tape measure with a metal end that has a hole in it. Put a pencil in the hole and put it on the waist mark. Put a pin through the tape measure at the center of the circle and draw your arc. If you are doing a four panel skirt, the arc only needs to be 12-1/2" long. Draw another line from the center of the circle to the 12-1/2" mark. Then draw a circle for the hem length you want. Don't forget to add seam allowances.
The parallel lines of stitching are done with guides, and the tucks (those little flaps) are done by pressing a crease and stitching a fixed distance from the crease. The quilted pieces and the tucked pieces are cut and finished as separate pattern pieces and then assembled with the other front pattern pieces before assembling the leggings.
If you want to know how to turn a pair of regular leggings into this, it won't work. Here's a search for patterns for moto leggings.
The fabric is fraying due to age. There is a product called fray check that will serve the purpose for you. Here is a small video showing how to do it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7YPVGUVuMc
You can find the product locally in craft stores, maybe even your grocery store.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JQM1DE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7BN0GR1T69MZXTE6ZT6P I got this one for Christmas 2 years ago and it is an excellent machine. I picked up the skill very quickly with YouTube videos and absolutely love it!
I have a double bulb hanging, plug in, fluorescent shop lamp hanging from two chains suspended from the ceiling directly over my machine about 2' down from the ceiling, and a remote on/off control at the outlet. I just click the control on/off. It's well lit.
I like this one. It's on my desk, has 4 brightness levels, and takes up just a little space. I'm able to swing it around and down so I can illuminate the poorly lit bed of my sewing machine. It's gone up in price since I purchased it 2 years ago, but what hasn't?
this is similar with a full skirt.
What you have is a cowl neck spaghetti strap princess bodice with a pencil silhouette and a wrap dress. I’d look for separate skirt/bodice patterns and combine.
I don't recommend fabric.com for anything but home dec and maaaybe quilting because their apparel fabric is garbage, but they have good prices on decent quality home dec. Most of it is around $10/yd, but it looks like there is a 30% off coupon code right now, and shipping is free on orders $35 or more. Given the prices Joann charges on home dec, even with a 40% off coupon from Joann it will likely come out cheaper to order from fabric.com. There is no Hancock, Hobby Lobby, or WalMart near me so I can't speak to their prices.
(I can't post a link sorted by price because the coding uses parentheses, but there is a nav bar for price low-high above the swatches.)
https://youtu.be/jqRrXJqD3Hg this video show pretty well if you skip the the 8:45 mark. Basicall you are turning the pants inside out, folding the hem under, and then the blind hem part is taking a stitch though the two folded layers and then right above the folded hem you catch just a couple threads of the pant leg. Here is a diagram. https://search.yahoo.com/search?p=blind+hem+diagram&fr=iphone&.tsrc=apple&pcarrier=Verizon&pmcc=311&pmnc=480. Boy it is really hard to explain. Maybe someone can do better than me.
Embroidery machines can fake the look of a whip or blanket stitch. There are commercial single purpose machines that can truly whip stitch. Here is one: http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/512178250/whipstitch_machine_for_glove.html All retail sewing machines need to use at least one top and and one bottom thread so they cannot whip stitch.
If you are doing a circular skirt, you can just increase the size of the waist. It will shorten the hem length but probably not by much. Here is a website where you can put in your waist circumference and it will tell you the radius of the circle you need to make. Add an inch to your waist measurement because you don't want it too tight. And measure your waist at the level you want the skirt to be. https://www.omnicalculator.com/math/circumference
Modal is a specific brand of of rayon. All rayons are engineered cellulostic fiber, made by chemically breaking down cellulose from plant sources into a liquid that is then spun into fiber like plastic fiber is spun. By themselves they don't have much memory, but Modal is often combined with stretchy fibers to make soft stretchy cloth with good memory. TMI over :)
Any rayon, bamboo, modal etc in any blend up to 60% with linen will get you a soft and cool fabric. The main thing that rayons bended with linen do is to provide that soft hand that 100% linen only gets after repeated laundering. So look for a rayon/linen, bamboo/linen, etc blend.
AVOID any blends with polyester or acrylic in them (usually sold as suiting, and in which the synthetics are used to increase crispness and reduce wrinkling) , as they will absolutely not have the same qualities as the short you're trying to replicate.
I added links to the photos for you on the top post. Reddit Markdown doesn't allow for embedding of photos in comments, but if you use RES it will do inline preview for you on all hyperlinks that are pointed at an image file.
I thought I was the only one using a hemostat for that. I didn't know what it was called
They sell a long flexible rod with a hole in it for getting drawstrings in pants.