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It probably is, but you should definitely consider the Harbor Freight motors instead, if you're in the USA. The predator 212 is THE standard go kart and mini bike motor if you're on a budget, and Harbor Freight quite often has a bitchin 20% or 25% off coupon you can use to get the price of a Predator down around a hundred bucks. Parts are plentiful and cheap as well.
They're no letters next to the numbers but that kit does look exactly the same, during that time I ended up ordering one I found on Amazon but it looks exactly the same as the one you sent me
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V64XVJQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eW8WBbSJ9T714
I'm curious what the answer might be. But what's your budget? This is a tiny working steam engine kit on Amazon, $190. It's meant to be cool, but not to do any actual work.
https://www.amazon.com/Wilesco-Steam-Engine-Model-Kit/dp/B0002HY5IE/
If you want something making several hp, I'm guessing that's an extremely small market size, and probably priced accordingly. If such a thing even exists.
All it does is ground the tab on the ignition coil, so if you can do a very simple circuit, you can use any switch. One wire from the coil tab to the switch, the other side of the switch goes to ground. I bought this switch and used some spare wire. https://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-GSW-18-Heavy-Duty-Electrical/dp/B00004WLKC
I use this set and it works perfectly: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006E5P8YI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Now it's possibly a bad time to bring this up, but I have lots of experience on these engines. Are you sure it's the starter? Most of the time when my first thought is that a starter is bad on a riding mower, it's not actually bad. Less than half of the time it's actually bad in my experience.
What Ifound through a suggestion was a Gold cleaning solution. This is precisely what I use. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KPFL298?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
Put a drop of that on a jet and it will clean it out without destroying anything. It IS acidic so be sure to rinse it. But it will flat out clean every oriface and eat dirt and grime in every little area.
Yeah I did replace the carb on both of these machines with brand new carbs. Below is a link for the carb I purchased.
PWK Carburetor 21 24 26 28 30 32... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083RMX218?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Please do not do this. Legal or not, it sounds like an extremely dangerous idea, and circular saw blades are not meant for that RPM. If the blade came apart, it could be disastrous.
There are brush cutter blades that are meant for this. Just one example: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0087NJ5HG/
I think you're talking about a 2 or 3 jaw puller. You don't want to use one of those on that, the flywheel will break. There are 2 threaded holes in the flywheel. You want a puller like this.
But, you shouldn't need to pull the flywheel to replace the head gasket. I also suspect a bad diagnosis. There's no water in small engines, so white smoke isn't from coolant leaking into the chamber like on a car. If it's only on startup, it's probably condensation in the engine/muffler steaming off. If it's all the time, you might have water in the gas, or it might actually be tinted blue and be oil leaking either past the rings or down the valves. A lean mix will also sometimes cause white smoke and overheating.
Minimum you’d want to do is drain the fuel and replace the fuel filter.
Whole carb kit with lines and filter is only $18. Just order this, drain the gas, replace it all and put new gas in it
https://www.amazon.com/USPEEDA-Carburetor-Troy-Bilt-Snapper-Backpack/dp/B07LG4GSQ4
This would be my vote too. The carb is likely dirty. If you don't want to disassemble it, you could try adding a cleaner, like Seafoam, to the gas, then run it like that for maybe a full tank, and see if anything changes. I've never gotten a carb to improve that way (I've always needed to disassembly and clean them), but it's helped some people.
Alternately, if you don't want to try and clean it, you could just replace the carb. One example, based on your model number:
It's a carb primer pump. Here is one on Amazon for reference.
/u/19chevy79
Thank you so much. I would have never guessed that. I tried looking for that on Google and couldn't find anything that looked close to that in the picture. I did find one thing on Amazon that looks close but it's not called the same.
https://www.amazon.com/Raider-Universal-Shut-Off-Valve/dp/B002ZTGM0G
Also, what size is the hose do you think?
Get your hands on a screw pitch gauge. It will tell you which die to use to chase your threads. Good luck
So, made a bunch of progress on this. Generac tech support pointed me to B&S as the manufacturer (B&S Model 8953-0), but ultimately, no more information, so I just dove in.
I checked the frequency: 40 Hz (should be 60). This didn't sound like an electrical problem. It sounded more like the engine just wasn't running at full speed.
I pulled the air filter so I could get to the carb. The filter, BTW, was spotless inside. So clean, I suspect this has seen almost no use over its lifetime. Manually opening the throttle, increased both voltage and frequency. Tracing the linkages back, the throttle was tied into a lever that emerged from the side of the crankcase, down near the oil filler.
There was also an adjusting screw that came out the front of the engine, under the choke and on/off controls. So, I tried the obvious thing and turned the screw. Victory! Increased RPM, voltage, and frequency. I got it to about 122 VAC and something close to 60 Hz. The throttle does a lot of hunting, with corresponding frequency wobbles. Not sure if that's considered normal for these sorts of things.
I'm a little concerned that I had to change the adjustment so much. That's usually a sign that something else is wrong. And the throttle hunting worries me too.
Haven't tried it under any real load yet. I put a 100W light bulb on it, and that's fine. I'll have to find a good dummy load to try higher powers (I hardly have any incandescent bulbs left). I guess a hair dryer or toaster.
Maybe? I'm not familiar with your genny.
Found a parts list here: https://www.ppe-pressure-washer-parts.com/coleman-powermate-pressure-washer-pw0912201-parts
Which includes the pump components. If what you broke off is the outlet tube, you may be able to replace it. https://www.amazon.com/Replaces-190589GS-190634GS-201497GS-E8FH4F85451646/dp/B01JKR8JQK
But if it broke off flush, removing the old one may be difficult. A large bolt extractor may work. Or something else tapered, with edges on the outside, which you could lightly bang into the broken piece. To try and get it to bite hard enough that you could attempt to unscrew the banged-in piece, to turn the broken piece with it.
These lines breaking is fairly common on older small engines with that style of line, I have replaced many. There are a ton of different sizes of small fuel lines, if you look up the parts listing it may tell you what size line it is, then just get a few feet of it. Alternatively, take the old line to a small engine shop and they will probably figure out the right size and sell you the right line for a reasonable price. Replace all the line, not just the sections that are broken. And might as well put a new fuel filter on at the same time. Note that one of the lines is supply, it will be long enough to put the filter in the bottom of the tank. The other one is return, it will probably only go a little bit into the tank. Don't mix the two up where they hook to the carb. The line is very tight getting through the hole in the tank, and I found it was usually easier to pull it through than to push it. I used to cut the end at an angle, poke a hole in the point, and run a thin wire through that hole. Then I'd put the line into the tank through the gas cap, feed the wire out the hole using pliers like these, and use that to pull the line out. I used to use dish soap for lubrication, but I stopped doing that after a return line popped out during reassembly.
I agree 100%! Throwing parts at it without checking basics is an amateur move. But that's what I am. I enjoy fiddle faddling with things and usually tend to learn a few things from it. Also the enjoyment of fixing something on my own is often worth the time. Besides the total of all the parts so far was less than $20.
SIMPERAC 308054079 Carburetor for... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BB32N6TC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You should either have spark, or not. Meaning that if it will fire at all, let's assume that your spark is OK.
If you have a compression tester, what does that show, for compression? If you don't, my next step would likely be to remove the valve cover, and check the valve clearances, compared to whatever the specs are for this engine (Briggs & Stratton model 123456, something like that, not just Porter Cable 8hp, for instance). You will need a set of flat feeler gauges to check/set clearances (one example https://www.amazon.com/Hotop-Blades-Feeler-Imperial-Measuring/dp/B06XHXJG31 )
Agreed on checking the valves. But I'd say it's the clearances being too-large (like 0.010") rather than too small (like 0.002") that would defeat the compression release, and make the cord hard to pull. But regardless, OP, check the valve clearances. You will need a set of flat feeler gauges, ~$5 at an auto parts store, or available from Amazon. One example: https://www.amazon.com/Hotop-Blades-Feeler-Imperial-Measuring/dp/B06XHXJG31
I have a Fast Tach that is wireless and works great, but they are pricey. https://www.amazon.com/ROP-Shop-Wireless-Tachometer-DTI-FT100/dp/B07D42DPSR. Saw them for less on two different sites when searching Google. No wires, no tape. Just hold it near the plug wire.
That's not to say they don't exist, but I've never used that type, sorry.
Can I ask why? I have a bunch of the wire-wrap style, no issues, with 1- or 2-cylinders, 2- or 4-stroke. And I have a "floater" unit that I'll move between machines as needed.
This looks like what you're describing, and has a replaceable battery: https://www.amazon.com/Runleader-Engine-Tachometer-Alligator-Pick-up/dp/B08F1D12SH
Many are pretty similar. You wrap the wire around the spark plug wire, and that's it. Get one with a replaceable battery, so it's not junk when the battery eventually dies (like in 5+ years). Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Maintenance-Tachometer-Replaceable-Motorcycle-Paramotors/dp/B07PMJH7QV/
Regarding valve timing the crankshaft and camshaft gears have stamped alignment marks that are supposed to match up (and they were when I opened the engine) so based on my understanding of that aspect it appears that the valve timing is as intended.
With the ignition timing I can't say I am 100% sure I fully understand how the timing could be adjusted or off, but this link is the ignition coil style (I used a genuine Kawasaki) and from what I can tell in this application there really is only one direction it can be installed with the cable being able to reach the plug.
https://www.amazon.com/Kawasaki-21171-2207-Ignition-Coil/dp/B008Y2O3UO
This means your generator is running lean. This can be caused most likely by a clogged carburetor, or bad fuel. If you can't clean the carb, you can try some carb cleaning fuel additive (example) along with very fresh fuel.
Running an engine lean can be very detrimental to its lifetime so I would try to fix this.
Many of these leaked at the seam. This it? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PYXCBY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you can't find the answer, I just buy these bundles from amazon with every common size of small engine fuel line all the time and then I always have extra. They have kits for a few dollars more with filters/primer bulbs as well.
>lawn boy 10318
6125303 Is the stock Blade Number
92-011 is the Oregon part number
The one in the link is a Oregon Gator which will fit your mower.
Fairly universal. But some filters are a very tight mesh, and are more restrictive, and are made for use on engines with fuel pumps, which can push the fuel through the tight filter.
While other filters are loose (or open) enough that they work with gravity-fed engines.
Paper-element fuel filters are generally tight enough that they must be used on an engine with a fuel pump.
In additional larger engines can require physically larger fuel filters, to allow enough flow.
For instance, this Briggs 150 micron filter is for smaller gravity-fed engines up to 15hp: https://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-Filter-Micron-5018K/dp/B00004RB1A
While this 75 micron is meant for engines with fuel pumps, up to 15hp: https://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-394358S-Filter-Assembly/dp/B001C9AVTS
FitBest Carburetor with Fuel Line Filter for Robin EY20 EY15 DET180 Wisconsin WI-185 Generator Carb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07437GJY9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G565AAQRWWZK5B5WHE3A
Awesome thank you.
Should I this filter with the pre-filter -- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BPQV9Z8
or this one -- https://www.amazon.com/Filter-Replacement-Briggsss-strattonnn-796032/dp/B09H12RL82
That's the model. Spec will be something like 156### and a letter.
The most common muffler for that model is part number: 35056. https://www.amazon.com/Tecumseh-Equipment-Muffler-Original-Manufacturer/dp/B00TD9J6TK
Good luck.
Here is something to make that job easier, cleaner looking and waterproof.
If you don't know about them yet let me introduce you to [easy(http://haisstronica 220PCS Solder Seal Wire Connectors-Waterproof Solder Wire Connectors-Heat Shrink Wire Connectors-Electrical Connectors Kit(20Yellow 40White 80Red 80Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NZ9L48L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_CDF23MP89R4JE54W10AC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) solder connectors. They will make cleaning up that other guy's mess a breeze and they're waterproof!
Put one of these on it K&N Vent Air Filter/Breather: High Performance, Premium, Washable, Replacement Engine Filter: Flange Diameter: 0.375 In, Filter Height: 1.75 In, Flange Length: 0.5 In, Shape: Breather, 62-1600RD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009774GCA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_HXM70VF0NW2MPW7S54TR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The head I have is this one. It has a nut on the end but don't think it compresses a spring. Genuine OEM AR Complete Aluminum Pump Head with Unloader & Installed Thermal Relief Valve, AR42940 fits SRMW2.2G24, SRMW2.2G26, 020377-0, 020413-0, 020413-02, 020413-1, 020415-0 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D3DQ876/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_SX8CC0HZTCXH8SBZNN0Y?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Oh, yeah, I forgot reason number 5 - it doesn't actually work as well as the tool.
You can also sometimes use a universal pulley puller, which you may be able to pick up at your local harbor freight or auto parts store. The only issue is that sometimes the bolts are too big or too close together on the flywheel for it.
Craftsman looks like a winner: https://offerup.com/item/detail/302277622/
From other sources, model number 358.791050 is very similar, gas tank pn 545103702, which means OEM is AYP, aka Husqvarna/Weed Eater.
Milwaukee 2457-20 M12 Cordless 3/8" Sub-Compact 35 ft-Lbs 250 RPM Ratchet w/ Variable Speed Trigger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006CSRBTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_289Q23V30Q6Y3SVEA4AN
I use snap-on 3/8 and Milwaukee 1/4 and they are 10/10. The Milwaukee 3/8 is definitely comparable to the snap-on brand at half the cost. To make these last “break” the bolt with a ratchet and then use the tool to zip them shits on out of there. These and some extensions and you’re in business
I patched the hole in my exhaust but it made no difference, the baffle in the muffler is all loose and not doing anything. I found this Briggs and Stratton replacement muffler that has a 1inch npt thread on it. The exhaust port on the Tecumseh engine is 1inch but I can't find any specs for it. Stock Tecumseh engine is 60$ and is gonna fail the same way sooner or later. The Briggs one is 38$ and look like a better unit overall. Anybody know for sure if the threads in the Tecumseh engine will match the muffler? Thanks! Here is a link to the Briggs muffler.
I think this is what you're looking for. You can thread a quick disconnect directly into them. (as others have said, use a regulator set to ~30 PSI.
Litorange 2 PCS Lead-Free Brass Reducing Hex Adapter Garden Hose Thread 3/4" GHT x 1/4" Female NPT Straight Fitting Coupler For Fuel/AIR/Water/Oil/Gas https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08421KRV2/ref=cm_sw_r_apanp_zChhsM663KHE9
My grandfather always had this. I still use it.
Permatex 01406 DL Blue Label Cream Hand Cleaner, 4.5 Pound (Pack of 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBNV76/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_G48RC3SVJXBGQZT7A9H5?psc=1
Here's the carb:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WG16Z1M/
It has a primer bulb and no choke (unless there's a choke that my newbie eyes dont understand yet :).
To my newbie ears, it seems to run fine. And I chipped a fair amount of branches of good size.
It's a knockoff carb, but the reviews seemed good and legit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WG16Z1M
Should I not trust this and go ahead and get an OEM one? I'm thinking as I'm still learning, it might make sense for me to go ahead and get an OEM one to be sure if that's the problem or not...
I forgot to mention that I had changed the spark plug to a fresh one (the one that came in the above kit).
So, I tried flipping the air filter so the dirty part was not near the carb, but it didn't help. It just seemed like an interesting indicator of some issue that it was already kinda brown in the spot where the carb is.
without knowing what exactly your setup looks like, have you tried a centrifugal clutch?
Any pics? If the scratchs aren't that deep I would lightly hone it with something like this
Did you make sure the pings were free in the piston? They should be able to move and spin freely. Also if you took the rings off are you sure you have the bottom oil rings assembled correctly? If the wavy ring Is overlapped it will burn oil.
I think I'd get one of these and see if it works. It's a gamble, honestly. Whether your want to mess with it is up to you, but maybe you could get it running without the expensive original system
DB Electrical IBS3002 Ignition Coil Compatible with/Replacement for Briggs & Stratton Models 133200, 133700, 135200, 135700, 395491, 397358 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MWOQY0C/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_E0VRRPQ1W1KS126CZYN8
By your description if the main is clean, the float is level and valve is good- you have a blockage in an idle bleed. Does this have the plastic insert pilot jet under the base idle screw? If so, pop that out and ensure that it is open, then clean the holes front and back from that opening. https://www.amazon.com/Generac-Genuine-0K95520119-Carburetor-Specific/dp/B087QT4HSJ
First off pull the old coil so you can match it up.
OEM Direct Depot Compatible Ignition Coil Replacement for Briggs & Stratton 298968, 299366, John Deere AM35759, Oregon 33-365, Stens 460-006 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00770Z85S/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_glt_fabc_RVYEWE42ZNST9GS46F53?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I didn't see exactly where but it probably arced to one of the bolts, the one the one the strap on it or the other one.
Yes, it was put away in working condition. I checked all the things that can cause an improperly stored engine to not start and ruled them out.
Did your yz burp at all when you tried to get it going? I sometimes get it to in the beginning but that's it. I'll be damned if that's the issue. What kind of ignition are you talking about me trying? One like this? Is that something that can be wired up fairly easily?
I honestly thought my ignition would be kind of an "all in one" like a mower but it had about four components. The charge coil with the laminate plates and opposite it is the sensor under the flywheel. Then they go to the "power pack" (as the parts list calls it) that says CDI on it, then from there it goes to the ignition coil assembly.
I appreciate you helping me out. This is getting depressing lol.
First, I think the arrow is pointing to the left, so it is standard rotation.
If you have a punch and a hammer, you can usually hit it and get it to pop off without seizing up the motor. I prefer that method.
Some crankshafts are not cast/machined as a single piece of material, they're 3 pieces, with one piece making up each end of the crank and a separate piece for the crankpin. On low power machines it's usually sufficient to just put them together by heating up the parts with the holes in them, freezing the pin, slipping them together, and letting thermal expansion hold it all together. I pulled a Homelite weed wacker clutch off one day by shoving a rope down the spark plug hole and then turning it with the removal socket, it felt a little funny then popped off. Pulled the engine apart and realized the crank was no longer quite straight, one of the ends had turned slightly on the pin. I put it in the vice and tapped it back to straight, put in new rings, put it back together, and after about a minute it seized up. The crank had twisted again. I junked it, took it home from work with every intention of either replacing the crank or welding the pin...and it's sitting in the attic of my garage, 10ish years later, haven't touched it. I bought an electric weed wacker instead :)
I did still use the tool in the future, just used it with an impact gun and didn't have any more problems like that.
Hmm, I THINK it might actually be ok. I bent it back completely straight and it seems to still have a good bit of strength. And yeah I think the cable length is good, it seems like it just has a hard time creating enough force to stretch out the spring that pulls the kill switch. The plastic piece feels like its about to break. Here's an amazon link to the cable I ordered that has the exact same plastic mounting piece. https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-532183281-Control-Cable/dp/B00DFO0OLS
Is that little metal handle something I bent something that's replaceable? It's super easy to remove.
Those work great. But try one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RZH0V4G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ok i'm lookin at two rebuild kits off amazon. Do I need any special tools. I assume these kits have everything I'd need. Lookin at https://www.amazon.com/HURI-Cylinder-Piston-Husqvarna-Chainsaw/dp/B015OCIOEM/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=husqvarna+350+cylinder+kit&qid=1613660566&sr=8-6
Got this one on Amazon last week for $56, works great
Ultrasonic Cleaner 10L Digital Cleaning Machine with Stainless Steel Cleaning Basket Ultrasonic Cleaner Bath Tank Timer Heated Machine for Metal Parts Engine Parts Tableware Daily Lab Tools Etc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XCNZH6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_BAJW4G5R9GGGDMQS8XYM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00I4Z0UYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_JXEZDZFCNGHAJ1K51VWG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 the price varies wildly. I bought mine for $30 I believe. Buy one now and keep it for the inevitable.
OP, you can use a can of stuff like this to winterize the pump. It blows out the water (to avoid cracking the pump when it freezes), and puts in some oil to help protect it. https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22007-Pressure-Washer-Protector/dp/B00NEG6KVU/ Good luck, I hope it's just something loose! But at least around here, you see a lot of cheap used pressure washers that need a pump, I have to imagine at least some are due to water freezing in the pump and cracking it.
After market.
Is the main jet adjustable...? I know I can use a flat head and unscrew the main jet/emulsion tube....
They fail in two ways, the shoes wear and it won't move (like you have), or the springs fail and basically lock it.
They are pretty cheap, the better option is to put a torque converter on it, but those cost 3x as much (but last a whole lot longer)
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-10-5045-Multi-Purpose-Fluorescent-Detection/dp/B008I2VPC4/
Then follow the trail to the source. I'd suspect either a leaky seal around the dipstick or the split where the two halve of the crankcase go together.
Sure, and they are an excellent troubleshooting tool to have around. One example, on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/AstroAI-Digital-Multimeter-Voltage-Tester/dp/B01ISAMUA6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=multimeter&qid=1559002606&s=gateway&sr=8-3
If there's a Harbor Freight near you, they frequently have coupons for their cheap multimeter for free, or close to it, if you buy something else.
Get yourself some Kano Kroil from Amazon and spray it down liberally. Wait 24 hours and then try to take the bolt off. I use said spray consistently at work to free up bolts that have rusted solid on 2000° boilers. It is worth every penny.
Kano Aerokroil Penetrating Oil, 10 oz. aerosol (AEROKROIL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000F09CEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rQ.IDb8RWT79K
^ This. The EPA says you can't adjust the carb more then 1/4 turn. Amazon says eff that. There may be some small plastic caps you have to remove first to actually turn the adjustment screws.
Before you go too crazy though, remove the muffler and you should be able to shine a light in and get a look at the cylinder walls. Make sure they aren't scored before wasting any time.
You obviously have a fuel feed issue. If it runs on starting fluid, you have confirmed spark, compression and timing. If you pull the fuel line from the carb does fuel run out of it? Possible clog in the fuel line. Another possibility is the float on the new carb isn’t allowing fuel into the bowl. I recently replaced a carb on a 6.75 Briggs with this carb from Amazon and it started on the first pull.
If you choose to cut your teeth on this motor, great! Before anything else, wash the thing down. Last you want is crap in the motor. Dump the bowl, check the float integrity. Clean the jets and butterfly valve with appropriate cleaner. If you succeed, congrats! If you get stuck, here ya go;
Replacement Carburetor for Tecumseh 632615 632208 632589 H30 H35 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IK2MNZK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hcBvFbS1JM6W8
You need a carb kit or carb
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010GLWOHE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xp.qFbMRTKB4H
You use is very little which means you're leaving gas in it.
You left gas in it too long and it stiffened the diaphragms inside the carb. They require flex and the throttle increases and Because yours do not flex it chokes from lack of fuel when you try to rev it.
Only put enough gas in it to do what you need. Buy true fuel without ethanol, and do not leave gas in it for more than 30 days (tank included) if you will go without using for more than 30 days run the carb dry. You'll get alot less trouble in the future.
Source: Stihl/Husqvarna Tech and owner of small engine business.
its a 49cc engine for a bicycle. here's a link. https://www.amazon.com/Engine-Carburetor-Stroke-Bicycle-Motorized/dp/B07H28QNWB
for this carb, the screw only adjusts the idle. adjusting for rich/lean requires rejetting. I don't know much about carbs, im trying to figure out if my understanding is correct in the needle jetting. It seems like the only reason to rejet is because the throttle slide is connected to the jet. But im not sure.
Paper-element filters are typically too-restrictive for gravity fed engines.
You likely need the plastic "flat" round filters, with a screen in them. Note that Briggs makes 2 versions. The tighter 75 micron screen is for fuel-pump engines. And the looser 150 micron screen is for gravity-fed engines.
You want the 150 micron version. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004RB1A
I don't know the clearance specs for that crank journal but maybe using this plastiguage you can get an idea if it's too much.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001LERPRA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xwklFb67CCRHN
go to 11:24/1:31:20 in this video. Taryl measures clearance and says .002" is good on a 5hp b&s..
https://youtu.be/CrrObcvvxFo
I looked in a B&S "Single Cylinder L-Head Repair Manual" and didnt see the exact spec (i.e. "clearance). They show table of "Connecting Rod Rejection Size". Maybe you can check it for wear.
120000 with small crank pin w/date code before 970113XX = Crank Pin Bearing should be rejected if less than 1.001"
120000 with large crank pin after date code 90112XC=Crankpin Bearing should be rejected if less than 1.097"
hope that helps.
The hole in the black swivel thing is a pin hole size.
The internet is not giving me clear detailed scematic unfortunately.
https://i.imgur.com/T7w51Qs.png
Mine is missing that spring that slides over metal rod.
Pic is not mine.
I found this but comment says too big??
I may bring to shop.I can get the parts but have no idea how or where they go.
https://www.amazon.ca/Throttle-Governor-Return-Gasoline-Generator/dp/B07BSY3PDM# I will be using hoist as is tomorrow
Like I said i control throttle with choke but figured throttle lever may be better if I get it sorted?
Lots of interations of this motor and see springs setup differently on the same model?
No, you need to buy fuel lines. I would search the model number or the carb p/n. Looks the same but could be different. I found it on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001OK8JQM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You'd need a compression tester. One example, just the first result on Amazon, I don't know anything about this particular kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SKSAB8U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xkasFb1JQP8JK
Harbor Freight sells one too. Mine is from them, but it's old, and not what they're selling today, apparently.
By "adjustments to the jet needle position", are you talking about mixture adjustments? A fixed-jet carb has no jet adjustment needle, as that opening is fixed, based on the size drilled through the jet. Adjustable carbs have needles for making changes, fixed-jet carbs do not, in my experience.
A quick search on Amazon for "49cc carb adjustable" showed this, for instance: https://www.amazon.com/CARBURETOR-COOLSTER-100CC-110CC-COMPLETE/dp/B00FRVHO4M/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=49cc+carb+adjustable&qid=1597762155&sr=8-8
Just one example, there are others. Carbs are designed for a certain range of airflow through them, as I understand it. You'd probably want to consider the mounting holes for the carb, as well as how it mates up with the engine's intake, to ensure it's compatible with your engine.
Yes, the screw head is at the back of the needle, opening or restricting fuel flow through the jet, to control the mixture, by threading the needle in or out. Typically by small amounts, say 1/8 turn. Usually, once it's set correctly, you can pretty much just leave it alone.
You could probably use a servo to adjust this, if needed, though it would need enough torque, and you'd likely be using a small amount of the servo's rotation range.
> w air filter and precleaner. Little did I know it would be a month before the parts arrived, so I just had to w
A quick look on Amazon shows aftermarket carbs down to about $50, if you wanted a less-expensive replacement option. I didn't check eBay, nor am I going by the actual carb's model number. Just using the engine model #.
I'd probably give it one more attempt, at least. But you might find something cheaper, if you opt to swap it. https://www.amazon.com/Carbpro-Carburetor-Kohler-Generator-KT730/dp/B07WFC1L9W/
Are there any mixture-adjustment screws on the carb?
I have the exact same motor from an old school yard sweeper. I bought a carb for it on amazon for like $20 and it worked like a charm.
Edit: This one, it was actually an entire kit for $30 CAD Link
There is a shop but he said he wont work on honda.
I have no issue ordering from amazon(2 day)
https://www.amazon.ca/Throttle-Governor-Return-Gasoline-Generator/dp/B07BSY3PDM#customerReviews
Problem its hit or miss by the reviews.
One says perfect,other says too big?
Where these engines have an actual automotive-style coil, I would stick with the resistor plug. They're under $3 on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Champion-871-Copper-Small-Engine/dp/B000HDIJHQ
It's possible that your oiler assembly might have worn and gone bad. If you're mechanical and have the time, they're cheap. Here's a link to Amazon (in the US) for the part. One of the hoses might have cracked if the machine is old enough.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MZYCGYH/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_HqVMEb6Z2K1F6
You can get genuine briggs fuel pumps on Amazon for $18.xx (link). I would definitely go that route over a rebuild, and in fact I did just that on my mower with the old rectangular aluminum pump.
Wow... Shiny! Looks nice!
I know it's probably stock, and you may be inclined to restore the Cub to stock (and that's OK!), but have you ever considered how loud these exhausts are. Does it ever bother or concern you? Just wondering.
This winter I will be restoring a 1960 Panzer. I'm not hell bent on keeping everything stock, but will keep the appearance as such and it'll all look "period correct". I found a new exhaust (used on a prev. build / restoration) and I love how quiet it is, and have had others comment on it as well.
Went back through my history and found it. I had to cut off bracket so I could configure it for my application. I notice this is mentioned as a replacement for Cub, Kubota...
I ended up configuring this horizontally in front of and under a forward-facing head / cylinder on a vertical shaft, 18hp Briggs. I had to sleeve the inlet and bought 1, 180 deg. mandrel bend to cut up and get this exactly where I wanted it.
Just a note, be careful using carb cleaner, or straight 4-stroke gas (with no oil) for this. 2-stroke engines rely on oil mixed into the gas for lubrication. Carb cleaner has no oil, and can wash the oil off the cylinder walls, running the engine with no lubrication.
If you need to try something like this, it's better in some ways to use a small splash/spritz of oil-mixed, 2-stroke gas.
Yes, I'd interpret your test as showing that the engine is not properly getting fuel. You can clean and rebuild the carb. Or you can replace the carb.
Replacing the carb is simpler than disassembling and rebuilding it. It's also more likely to be successful. For ~$15, replacing the carb is probably worth a shot. One example: https://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-BVM200FE-Craftsman-Weedeater-545081857/dp/B07597HVX8
Yes, ethanol-free gas should help avoid gumming up the carb. But you could still add stabilizer to the gas, as cheap insurance.
I believe it’s Part number 107-4607 for the kit.
Looks sort of like this. Certainly no higher quality than this: https://smile.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-Multimeter-Resistance-Continuity/dp/B00002N5EX/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=gb+instruments+battery+tester&qid=1559247087&s=gateway&sr=8-1 I'll get one of the other ones in the meantime. Do you know how to upload photos here?
Click the link I provided. They're also on Amazon for 20. https://www.amazon.com/Carbhub-697190-Carburetor-Stratton-14-5HP-21HP/dp/B07JQH5BTC/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_2?keywords=Carburetor+For+Briggs+%26+Stratton+Intek+792171+Nikki+795366&qid=1555516947&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmrnull
If a subject is going to be sitting in the chair, you're going to need a powerful motor, maybe a 1/2 horsepower or slightly more. You might also use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Merchandise-Turntable-Photography-Capacity-Automatic/dp/B010NBNCBY
I’ll go buy a spark plug for $2.5 today. But if that doesn’t work what’s the part number of the coil thing I need?
NEW TECUMSEH 34443 34443A 34443B 34443C 34443D IGNITION COIL SOLID STATE MODULE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LT23OZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1BD9AbEZY8C17 So is this not it ? Cause you said $60 but this is only $10
I don't know why it isn't starting. I haven't tried starting it by spraying into the air filter hole yet
I bought a new carb unit on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005COXBIC/
I'm worried maybe I didn't setup the linkage correctly after installing the new unit?
Have new filter, new plug, and new gas bought 2 days ago
Thanks! You think it is too inexpensive so worried about the quality?
The reviews on that engine seem to be good. You can check tm out on this page:
https://www.maxtool.com/xp16hpe-duromax-xp16hpe
under the "Reviews" tab
Also, the reviews on Amazon look good too (5 stars). You can see those here:
https://www.amazon.com/DuroMax-XP16HPE-Electric-Recoil-Engine/dp/B0040ZWU18/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1