The beds are easier to get off. I use the 2.5lb to hit another mason hammer. The face I chip off with $25 brick hammer
I havent tried a bushing hammer. My main difficulty is trying to face the stones. Im not sure how guys can shape stone faces so well.
You can buy a moisture-meter for $30 and check the wall and know the issue, not just guess. I carry this one in my car for jobs.
You can check levels at timed intervals after rain and confirm. 2x daily for a week?
I renovate homes. I hate dealing w/ people who are "desperate" I will bid high so I don't get the job or if I do you're paying a premium. Lots of reasons I can expand on, but need to get out the door.
Have a dispassionate party call for a bid and meet mason. That may insulate you some. If all bids are similar, that is just the scope/cost of the job. To get numbers, patrol the neighborhood, get names/numbers of people doing similar work. That is how I get 80% of my subs.
Others here will pipe-in with info on the masonry work, I can offer help on getting the bid.
You need this tool https://www.amazon.com/Point-Diamond-Concrete-Segment-Cutting/dp/B08JPGCLX6, and a dust collection system for a grinder, steady hands and PPE
Have you try Quick N Brite? Used this to clean a fireplace with several seasons of smoke and soot caked on. Here https://www.amazon.com/Quick-Brite-Fireplace-Creosote-Chemicals/dp/B0792JF8YQ
4 Inch 50 to 3000 Grit Wet... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08CTWR6RX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share try something like this. You’ll need to wet sand it. And you’ll likely have to do a pretty big area so it’s not obvious as the finish may end up a little different from the existing
See if either of these might trip your trigger.
Gorilla - you might need to play with this one a little and time it just right. It might be a little too viscous and might run a little, but with those quick-sets, you can mix them up and let them set for a minute or two, and then get it in there right as it is starting to catalyze and kinda keep pushing it in while it sets if it runs a little.
Double Bubble Red NON Sag The other option, I don't have any experience with at all, but McMaster Carr carries it, and I have never gotten anything from them that was crap so it might be good but you could always research it yourself. It comes in fun little packets that you mix old-school with a little stir stick and then puddle in there.
I'd like to know where you land with this.
Cheers.
Two thoughts, (as a stone guy for 37 years)
1) the 3/4" thickness is problematic drilling in anything for a mechanical anchor. I'd probably just wipe the tops of the legs down to degrease them, then glue the top on with a urethane adhesive.
2) If you really NEED a mechanical fastener for possible disassembly in the future, there are inserts you can epoxy to the underside of the stone, then nut and bolt them into place. They're the same inserts used to hang undermount sinks in stone tops.
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I just started this year myself and was lucky to have a connection fall into my lap completely out of the blue. However, my commute is horrible so I've started calling around near me to find something a bit more convenient. I'd recommend finding businesses whose work you respect (look at pics on their Google reviews, websites, etc.) and just pick up the phone and call.
I think that you'll find people are more ready to talk to a rookie than you might be expecting, especially in a field where experienced practitioners aren't exactly popping up like mushrooms and people are probably more willing to share their knowledge. Also, do some reading on your end to make sure you sound like you've done the legwork - this and this are some good places to start, good luck in your search.
Washers shouldn't be needed as long as you're careful not to sink the screw through the board.
Make sure you have a good vapour barrier behind the cement board.
Magnesium is the second electrolyte that people are most commonly deficient in, after potassium. It's very important, but there are different forms you can get it in, and the cheapest and most common one is magnesium oxide; this form has a very low absorption rate and can be hard on your gut.
Don't get magnesium oxide. Get magnesium citrate or magnesium glycinate such as this. (That's what I've been taking.) It's not much to pay for how much it will benefit your body. You can take anything from 1-4 pills per day, spaced out with meals and before bed. I'd reccommend taking 3 or 4 for the first two weeks because magnesium takes a while to build up in your body.
Aside from that, I'd say make sure to eat vegetables daily, reduce your sugar intake, do hand stretching exercies, and maybe try drinking bone broth every weekend because I've heard it can help with joint issues. (Make it yourself though, don't get it from the store.) Good luck with your hand and take care, your joints are very valuable.
Grey building sand, regular cement in a 4:1 ratio ideally with a small amount of plasticiser added, mixed up to a overwhipped cream consistency. If you have a drill you can get a mixer attatchment they are cheap from screwfix or wherever.
Grind out the joints about 15mm deep, brush it off and then wash it down with a hose, You'll want a handboard and jointer. Should be able to find some videos on youtube that teach the technique you need. You sort of swipe the jointer into the mortar on the handboard and it will stick to the jointer you can then push then mortar on the jointer in the joint and holding the pressure swipe accross towards the mortar youve already put in.
this the handboard and jointer i use. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B011KPVYE4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0001P0JXW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also, not sure where you’re located but the easiest temporary fix would be something like a sakrete mortar mix in a caulking tube. Just use a caulking gun and smear it in there to seal as much as possible. That will definitely hold up over the winter.
Just gotta stay away from the ends of bricks. Even brand new ones will crack. These are a really nice style masonry anchor. Be gentle when tightening them.
Hes probably using leather gloves? I like these chemical resistant gloves. I also prefer beeswax lotion.
Thanks for the reply. I will be doing a dividing wall as well so I'll eventually need a bunch of mortar.
Is lime awesome because of the added flexibility? That seems like it would be beneficial for what I'm trying to do, since my bed for the bricks may be a little sketchy.
If I can find lime locally, what recipe would you recommend?
Edit: Also found on Amazon... $38 for 80 lbs, a bit pricey but would be plenty for the tree rings and if it worked out I could find a cheaper source later when I need larger a quantity for doing walls.
https://www.amazon.com/Mutual-Industries-7094-0-0-Western-Hydrated/dp/B00GP8IK26/
When you say "crosstip style" does that refer to the "X" in the Hilti model numbers as in this one?