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If you go 2x10s, get a 1k amp. Those subs are only 600 watts RMS each.
This amp comes closest and is inexpensive. Puts out 1100 RMS.
https://www.amazon.com/Ignite-Audio-Block-Class-Amplifier/dp/B07G4LZQYR
Ignite R3000/1D
I'll be straight up honest with you, your not gonna be able to get a 2 12s box, 2 12s, wiring, and a amp for 300, and if you do it's probablynot gonna hit very hard and sound like shit. I'll try to give you some links to what I would think would work great in that car, but I'll go ahead and say its gonna be more then 300. Skar is the way to go when it comes to cheaper and loud ass bass though.
Okay this skar kit is $530 and comes with 2 skar sdr 12s (they hit hard), a complete 4 guage skar wiring kit, and a skar 1200.1 amp. Make sure if you get these that you wire the subs in parallel at the subs and the voice coils that way you get a 1ohm load. But anyway if you want to not pay the premium and have bass that will rattle the back seats like you want these will do it for sure. Good luck to ya.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FGPHJP6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_20FDDV4WEWETXKY95HXZ
Connect the low level input on the subwoofer to the subwoofer output on the receiver.
Use a better cable than what you have there. Here's a good low cost one:
https://www.amazon.com/Mediabridge-ULTRA-Subwoofer-Cable-Feet/dp/B003FVYXY0?ref_=ast_sto_dp
Whoa, that's for a car and its a 4-channel amplifier; but that's where the Juice 10 should be installed.
You're overthinking this, check out a very popular subwoofer - powered. Please note that these are engineered, tweaked for low bass and ready to use.
[You'll need a $10 Hi/Low adapter. The high side wires are connected to the mains to pick up the bass frequency]
Back to my examples for a second:
The larger system, with the heavy woofer has 2,200 watts of power. I demo the Fury movie tank battles, everyone ducks down when the tanks fire. lol
The smaller system a measly 205 watts; 150 divided by 3 and a popular 55 watt subwoofer. The sub works nicely because the woofer cone is "floppy" and again - engineered.
If I were you, I'd be looking on-line for a used HT subwoofer.
They are 2 ohms each, and I was thinking about getting this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F1FXPH1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2JVCW1GQY516A&th=1 but I’m not sure if it would cause problems for being too much or too little power for the subs
Amp does 300@4ohms/500@2ohms
The enclosure is more important. Spending $700 on a pair of subs with this power and random enclosure is likely overkill.
It will Be hard to recommend a specific sub without knowing enclosure. But…
Seeing as you’re in Canada, I would look at the CompR from Kicker. Works well in sealed and ported, reliable and gives you enclosure and power upgrade ability.
So with X3 4Ω drivers could be wired into 1 1000W amp plate?
Other thing I forgot to mention :/ was the fact that the 12" driver requires 600W and the X2 6.5" drivers need 150W each.
So would this amp plate work?
So X3 4Ω speakers could be wired into that 1 amp plate?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Domilay-1000W-Amplifier-Powerful-Subwoofers/dp/B09C1JZ64R/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=Subwoofer+Plate+Amplifier&qid=1664720427&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjQzIiwicXNhIjoiMy4yNSIsInFzcCI6IjAuOTIifQ%3D%3D&sr=8-9 would something like that work?
Money will be the deciding factor as there are many different ways to do it - I have a pair of 15" on one amplifier and another pair of 8" on another amp. I use an electronic crossover set at 5hz-120hz for the 15", and 120hz to 400hz on the 8" pair.
You can get these in any configuration if you have the money, the below link is for connecting two amps for different frequencies.
https://www.amazon.com/Planet-Audio-EC10B-Electronic-Crossover/dp/B002QUZHXW
This is what you are wanting, as well as some of these T Taps. Take the radio out of the dash (Two screws under the bottom of the radio above heater controls). unplug connectors from radio and find the wires that are colored White/Green (Rear Left +) and Brown/Yelow (Rear left -) and clamp those T-Taps onto those wires about an inch to an inch and a half below the connector. Throw on the other connectors to the RCA's and plug in and run your other wires for your amplifier. Just keep in mind to run your power cable down one side of the car and then run your RCA's on the other. If you have to have them ran within the same channel, make sure they are at least 18" apart otherwise you can get feedback and disturbance
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Congratulations, you have just turned a stock radio into an Psuedo-Aftermarket radio by adding in RCA outputs
if your going to do this defiantly get a multimeter. basic good brand one is only $29 on amazon,
Your jack is a RJ11 old timey telephone jack, while the Skar looks to be an RJ45 ethernet type jack.
Something like this may work - if the Skar is not a keyed rj45
If you want hella bass try this
Alpine SWT-12S4 1500W Max (300W RMS) Single 12" Sealed Subwoofer Tube Enclosure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MXND918/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_71GRRBDZ3R8A3G6JA447?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I had this in my car for awhile and boy howdy does it hit. I never had any rattle but it thumps
AstroAI Digital Clamp Meter Multimeter 4000 Counts Auto-ranging Amp Voltage Tester Measuring AC/DC Voltage & Current, Resistance, Capacitance, Frequency, Continuity, Live Wire Test, NCV Detection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MTCMWLB/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_Z3E3CW5HR3K8DEMSJ12P
1000wrms @ 2 ohms and comes with a bass remote. I've been using a different model of this amp for over a year and it has exceeded my expectations.
^ This is assuming you'll wire to 4 ohms.
Only $75 and comes with a remote. I've been using the 350w monoblock from Rockville for over a year now and it has exceeded my expectations.
This amp is a little under your sub's rating by 50 watts, but my 350w amp tested at 425wrms so I'm betting you'll get the extra watts anyway. There will be a note inside the box showing the Dyno test rating.
The subwoofer is 500w RMS and 1000w peak, it has a 2.5" voice coil and is dual 2ohm. it was a amazon subwoofer that is now out of stock. i have a 2.1 Cu Ft box ported and tuned to 42hz. i have a alpine mrv-m500. if i do keep this subwoofer or do the box with 6 8" subs in it i will use this amp. but if i buy the skar audio 15s i will get a better amplifier.
If you know, what's a good reputable brand and who should I stay away from? Is something like this fine or should I try to stay away from amazon offbrand?
Is this product a joke or would it be worth it?
KICKER TRTP 12-inch (30cm) Thin Down Firing Subwoofer and Passive Radiator Enclosure, 2-Ohm, RoHS Compliant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NFJDBBJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_ZBMSQVDJ85KNE5ADG36J
I’m using something like these but it depends on how your factory wires are. Check your local stereo shop
This is your normal left-right channel rca jack cable. https://www.amazon.com/C2G-40464-Value-Stereo-Meters/dp/B0019MGITK/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2FVRX9JSUTUYB&keywords=rca+cables&qid=1645727145&sprefix=rca+%2Caps%2C439&sr=8-4
Since you have one input, it is referred to as being a rca cable mono.
I was looking at ordering this it is 500 RMS per channel and 1000 peek it seems to be a good match and is not to expensive. looking at building a 3.0 cubic feet with an f3 of 35. Do you have any opinion on the box or amp?
I was told it was a bad amp but I'm thinking about going with this amp instead, what do you think. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NASQRYT/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glc_i_MR7RGVJGV326HBQEH8W8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Kicker 46CXA8001T CX Series 1600 Watt Max Power Class D Amp Monoblock Car Audio Sub Vehicle Amplifier, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZBM3G3L/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_PGJ3MK3BN05RTQHQN3Q6
This is a good reliable Amp there r many more that I would suggest that r Korean but these r really solid and the bass eq actually works well
You should be fine. The pressurization the subs cause may affect the rear drivers so if they do just buy ones that fit your drivers.
https://www.amazon.com/XTC-2-Inch-Foam-Baffle-Pair/dp/B0002ZPNXW
I have several of these types of amps and they work best with a preamp. First check to see if you have an input voltage selector 0.7/1.5 volts, if not then you can use any cheap preamp available, I already had a Boss equalizer subwoofer preamp for my car and used a cheap $5 12 volt adapter to use in the house.
https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-AVA1210-Equalizer-Gold-Plated/dp/B000PJ1VL8?th=1
This is the one that i bought and it works well for me. Out of stock now but you can probably find an other one on the cheap. I know there is even part kits that you can build your own.
https://www.amazon. ca/dp/B07R7FPYZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_SQWFC3Q6PWG9T6XHACPJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If you want the full 300 watts then you need a 2 ohm sub. No comment on wires unless you show us what you mean.
with the little info you provided - You would need something like this:
Here is the one I bought for $15, my single Skar SVR 15" hits about 114dB at 800 watts - my midranges hit about 120dB at 100 watts.
I have a crown home amplifier that is excellent bang for buck. Think it’s the XLS series 1502 (525w x 2 @ 4ohms, 775x2 @ 2, 1550x1 bridged @ 4 ohms. $469 on Amazon
I have an 8 gauge boss wiring kit, is that good enough? Or will I have to replace it with the wiring kit that will come with the sub?
This is it: BOSS Audio Systems KIT2 8 Gauge Amplifier Installation Wiring Kit - A Car Amplifier Wiring Kit Helps You Make Connections and Brings Power To Your Radio, Subwoofers and Speakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FKP7TY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NC7KPB2FEHF49EM6S6M6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
How big is your box? and is it ported?
running a sub in free air like in your video at high power will bottom out the motor causing that crackling sound. That pyle only has 6mm of excursion [xmax].
Here is a dual 2 ohm that can give 4 ohms so you can bridge that amp to get 360 watts of max power. but if your amp or head unit clips it will blow any size sub.
I’m still new to this stuff so I am probably not using the right sub for what amp I have.
This is the amp I’m using:
Lanzar Amplifier Car Audio, 2,000 Watt, 2 Channel, 2 Ohm, Bridgeable 4 Ohm, MOSFET, RCA Input, Bass Boost, Mobile Audio, Amplifier for Car Speakers, Car Electronics, Crossover Network (HTG257) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00370QJQ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ST9Y7XWX4M9G68M9DN2Y?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Do you have any recommendations for a sub that would go good with this amp?
Ok, going down to two 8" woofers and a 4 ga wiring kit should be at your budget point. This will still absolutely blow your old system out of the water:
I actually have this Install Gear wiring kit, but I use it to charge my rear battery bank. 4 gauge will be fine for you. In fact, if your current wiring is 4 gauge, it will work.
Roughly $330-360 with shipping. Anyone on this forum can help with install or any further questions you may have.
I actually have this exact sub and amp (my amp is the marine version but same specs). One thing you’ll need is a Line out converter (converts speaker wire to RCA cable inputs) BOSS Audio Systems B65N High Level to RCA Converter Noise Filter for Car Audio Systems https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LP4RMQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_J0KCGY65MQDDSNJWXFDZ
1) You can take out the radio and figure out which wires you’d need to splice to the Line Out Converter, but that’s a pain. The alternative is to splice the Line Out Converter wires to one or two of your speakers. The converter has four wires right positive, right negative, left positive, left negative. Just splice positive wires to positive wire one of your car’s speaker and splice the negatives wires to the negative wire of you car’s speaker. To figure out which wire is Pos and Neg on your car’s speaker, use a 9V Battery and put one wire on the negative and the other on the positive, if the speaker pushes outward then you have the positive wire on the positive terminal of the battery and negative in the negative terminal, if it pushes inward then you have rot flipped.
2) You car shouldn’t have any issue powering just this one sub. Someone else commented talking about it being 1200 watts. Hate when people use the peak wattage number, what really matters is the Watts RMS number, which for this sub is 800 watts RMS at 1 ohm which is what it’s wired at in the box. 800 watts will be what it’s mostly going to be pushing except for small moments when the bass first hits during a song.
3) I have mine in a Nissan Murano so it’s a spacious cross over. My mirrors shake making everything I see in them look like a blur and I can feel the bass vibrating through the seat and my hair. This setup is pretty awesome for the price, people will hear you before they see you when you’re cranking it.
That’s incredibly disappointing seeing as this is my first sub setup. Gonna try it anyway and see if it works out
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075P7ZQL3/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_api_fabt1_HKtWFbEY6MET6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Taramps-Watts-Class-Range-Amplifier/dp/B089KSGZ1G
I’ll always shill for Taramps until their products start sucking. Which, they don’t. That’ll give you 800w (real not bullshit ratings) and those amps are built like bricks.
And don’t listen to that dude saying you’ll need to spend more than $200 on an amp, that’s total horseshit for just a 500w system. Honestly my suggestion is slight overkill, but a lil extra is always better than not enough
Looking to replace my old AF Kicker C12 4 Ohm sub with the following subwoofer:
Skar Audio SDR-12 D4 12" 1200 Watt Max Power Dual 4 Ohm Car Subwoofer
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078TPM1HT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_c8laGbD4XMSKX?psc=1
Only question I have is that the new sub appears to have both red and black terminals on both sides whereas my current sub only has one terminal (red or black) on each side. What will I need to do with the wiring when I replace it?
I sadly have no idea what that means. Here's the link to the ones I have if that helps at all. Would that amp alone work for both? Thank you for helping out lol https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001JECAM2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_EZXDFbHDQ2PA7
Oh Jesus fuck please do not ever buy BOSS Audio products. Your RMS rating is 400w, so that’s the power you’ll be looking for. Here’s my recommendation. https://www.amazon.com/Taramps-Watts-Class-Range-Amplifier/dp/B01E5TO9TY
Do you happen to know what the resistance the subs are wired too?
>B001JECAM2
well looks like its 2 ohm stable so at the very minimum i'd say 200 watts to get a moderate amount of sound. 400 would be pretty decent.
Something like this is under $100 and supposedly could send 550 watts to each sub max. (but you really shouldn't go by max power ratings.) https://www.amazon.ca/BOSS-R1100M-1100-Watt-Monoblock-Amplifier/dp/B004S4XNEO/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=subwoofer+amplifier&qid=1601638728&s=electronics&sr=1-6
if you don’t use the front speakers hi level input for the line driver and accidentally use the rear speaker output sometimes it doesn’t have a full sound spectrum depending on make/model. Here is a sexy line driver , it should give you a nice signal boost (easier on your amp). It also has a little warning light so you can tune in a clean signal.
New Rockville RXA-T1 1500W Peak/750w RMS 2 Channel Car Stereo Amplifier+Amp Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013DCF66Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n-3qCbK7AVH0P These Rockville Amps are great ive had one for the longest and they make their power, Class AB for the best sound quality and enough power for one since you’re not gonna be at peak power and to account for box rise, Goodluck!
ehh for car audio i would take the 1 p3. but at 160 i would save up 50 more and get one of these in a ported ~2ft^3 box tuned 30-40hz