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I have never used that, but I would think the big cap on the right would be where you would pour from, but the cap on the left would be opened to allow air in to prevent it from glugging. Kind of like how these big laundry detergent jugs have the small cap that you open as a vent.
I have a friend with a black lab, and I have a Great Dane. Also sand filter.
Buy these skimmer nets in link below, turn off vacuum and only leave on skimmer for ~1-2 days (starting during dog use, and leave on for 24-36 hours after). By then, all the non floating hair should be mostly in the deep end, grab your pole net and fish it out. Much easier with the nets! You can also throw them on the pump basket, but I recommend not just in case they get sucked into the impeller. Hence why I just turn off the vacuum and run the skimmer.
You are definitely going to get higher TDS due to the dirt they collect on their paws as they jump out jump in etc, but personally I enjoy the fun of a dog being in there with me. Bonus fun is get an RC Boat and watch the dogs FLIP OUT!
Coopache 30-Pack of Pool Skimmer Socks - Filters Baskets, Skimmers Cleans Debris and Leaves for In-Ground and Above Ground Pools https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073GSWKP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5N5R31JPJMYQRZ8J7W1K
Check this one out - good price does what you’re looking for : GE Z-Wave Plus 40-Amp Indoor/Outdoor Metal Box Smart Switch, Direct Wire, 120-277VAC, for Pools, Pumps, Patio Lights, AC Units, Electric Water Heaters, Compatible with a Z-Wave Certified Hub 14285 , Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_N4FA1WS48J7EFREAH7Q7
could be some residue from the black scrubber that is mounted to the end of the tail on the polaris pool cleaner
https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Polaris-Scrubber-Replacement-Vac-Sweep/dp/B01FRIHUSO[Pool cleaner brush](https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Polaris-Scrubber-Replacement-Vac-Sweep/dp/B01FRIHUSO)
I bought this one for a 16 foot wide cover. It does measure about 18 feet end to end. If you need 20 feet I would look for one that's a couple of feet bigger. They don't roll up perfectly. Its nice to have some extra space. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CL2HN14/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Deck O Seal Gray Deck-O-Seal 4701032 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BV2S5E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MHYXANDJ29RY9F2HE46C this is what you need. Watch a couple YouTube videos because there’s more to it than just pouring it in. You have to cut out the old stuff first. I like to use sand in the gap and sweep it down the line so it’s not flush with the deck. You have to make sure to fill any gaps or holes because this stuff is self leveling and you’ll lose it through anything that’s not plugged up. It can get messy but you have to work quickly. They have different colors, this one is gray.
Oh that’s easy. You should do it yourself. Here’s the part. It’s very easy to change out yourself. Raypak Replacement LCD Display 013640F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EV7GML4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3SG7BC0MC1N58183P960?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Chlorine and circulation. Any body of water without those two things is a pond. Clean/backwash your filter. If there are oils in the water throw a bunch of these in there. 2 pack Scumbug (tm) Oil-Absorbing Sponge Devours Scum, Slime & Grime From Pools & Spas https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SYXDGPG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Q93ZB9DX1A9HNBS71ZVQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You need a sanitizer like chlorine.
You can get one of these floating dispensers and than the 3" pucks (if they aren't sold out in your area) to start.
Without a sanitizer you will always get algae in the pool, in addition to increasing the likelihood of getting sick.
I have one of these, works great and very reasonably priced. You can use the app to set a schedule or turn on/off manually.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PP2KNNH
When vacuuming, I've totally used the app to turn the pump off so I can remove the vacuum plate from the skimmer, even though it's only about 10 feet away!
I run my pump on of these 40 amp GE z-wave switches. The 40 amp box is directly wired to a GFCI breaker and feeds power to an outdoor receptacle, which then feeds power to the pump.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YTCZZF0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
A scale build up, probably calcium. I have something very similar as I think we have a small amount of ground water that leaks into our pool (and it's very hard water). Try a gel based scale removal product. Basically you "paint" in on the scale with a brush or sponge, let it sit for 10 minutes or so, then scrub it off with a pumice stone. If the scale it particularly built up, it may take several treatments. But if it helps, you know that's the cause for sure.
https://www.amazon.ca/Pool-Tool-104D-Inline-Anode/dp/B00BQOJW6M
That's the style I use on saltwater systems. Make sure you attach the grounding wire to all metal components that will be exposed to the water.
You alternatively can use current collectors which are basically a pvc pipe with a metal sleeve and nut inside to connect the ground to. I use one on either side of the salt generator when I have the space to draw out the current before it touches anything else.
Galvanic erosion can play havoc with a system including your pool heater, pump and any sensor or flow train assembly with metallic components.
I bought a submersible water pump for 50$ off of Amazon. It worked great. If you zip tie the float to the top of the pump it will drain it down to an inch or two at the very bottom of the pool.
Thanks again for the advice. I'm considering going with IntelliFlo 011018 for my pool. My old pump was 1HP, do you think 3HP would be overkill? The reviews are by far one of the better in regards to quality and quantity so it's reassuring.
Anything I should look far in regards to sizing the tubes?
r-0014 is probably the other concentration, but idk if it's an industry standard.
Might as well just buy the comparator for r-0004. https://www.amazon.com/Taylor-9056-Chlorine-Comparator-Replacement/dp/B004VU87JG/
Or hell, but a whole k-2006 if you feel like it. It's worth it.
We have two sliding doors that go out to our pool, one to the sunroom and you through that and there’s another one to the deck. We did put up a fence around the pool, but we’re also going to install these on the sliding door at the deck when our little on is big enough to be able to open it on his own.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RR7D2VK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_X7A6AXEH3VZNS8TPTM8Y
So it’s showing as this part but you should open it up to check that it really is this little board. Raypak Replacement LCD Display 013640F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EV7GML4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3SG7BC0MC1N58183P960?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 if it is this board in there, it’s very easy to change yourself.
This stuff is magic. Pour it in a bucket of water and mix it up really good before you pour it in the pool. Robarb R20154 Super Blue Clarifier 1-Quart Crystal Clear Pool Water Polisher https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064E8BL6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_5WEZAWWHW5MX8D98D3MS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Robarb R20154 Super Blue Clarifier 1-Quart Crystal Clear Pool Water Polisher https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0064E8BL6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_FZEHFRBNTZWVC6VS7VRY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 this stuff is great for clearing your water. Just make sure you mix it up really well in a bucket first. Pour 3/4 of the bucket around your pool and the rest in your skimmer. Probably clean your filter too. Good luck
Here’s the standard VS pump (no flow control, just speed control but most people don’t care) for $1460 on Amazon. Pentair 011028 IntelliFlo VS Pool Pump, Almond https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P5JLP4Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_G7DNGQV2P9ZVWYKJQY31?psc=1
In my experience this works well. https://www.amazon.com/ProTeam-Tile-Vinyl-Cleaner/dp/B00HZMQ0BO. For gods sake use gloves. Like a dumbass I used it on a large pool once without gloves and could taste it in my mouth. This was a long time ago so it may be like u/punchin_juedi said and the formula may have changed. But I think it is a good bet.
I know you said the wife doesn’t want you to buy a new filter, but honestly you really should. I have a 16x48 Bestway that I got last year and kept using the cartridge filter that came with it. I was constantly going to the pool supply store for chemicals and advice because my pool kept getting green and there was always debris, no matter how often I swapped the filter cartridges out and cleaned them. The money I spent was ridiculous compared to the enjoyment of using the pool. Wife and I almost gave up and didn’t put the pool back up.
Ultimately we decided to give it another go around this year, I did my research and came to the conclusion that I definitely had to get a new filter. The ones that come with the pool simply are not powerful enough to cycle and filter the water at a good pace, especially if you’re using the pool a lot. Therefore I settled on a 14in Intex sand filter from HD, and I gotta say it already is 100% worth it. My pool has been crystal clear from the day I installed it, which means hardly any trips to the pool store. I would definitely look into it. Your pool is smaller so you can try a 12” or even 10” sand filter.
As for a vacuum recommendation, definitely one of those cordless, rechargeable ones that sucks the dirt into a sock trap that’s inside the unit definitely one of those cordless, rechargeable ones that sucks the dirt into a sock trap that’s inside the unit. It’s so convenient, we’ll not Dolphin convenient but you just attach it to your pole submerge it turn it on and vacuum. The suction is very strong.
I hope all of this helps. Good luck.
>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_api\_glt\_fabc\_N4FA1WS48J7EFREAH7Q7
That requires a smart home hub or an Echo device that handles z-wave devices (e.g. the NEW Echo Show).
That said, I had this one and it broke after the first season. But because I installed it very early in the season the first year, when I went to start it up the next season, a year had lapsed. It wouldn;t work (typical with GE's Z-wave stuff) and they refused to do anything about it. I now have an Aeotec that is actually cheaper and more reliable. https://aeotec.com/outdoor-z-wave-switch/
When there are heavy debris in the pool I use a leaf vac just attach a hose and it sucks up and catches a lot of twigs and gunk. The good part is it will also push up the smaller particles so your filter can catch more.
https://www.amazon.com/Include-Reusable-Durable-Inground-Swimming/dp/B08HN6RB5B/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=pool+leaf+vacuum&qid=1622581642&sr=8-6
Not sure on money but getting a automatic pool vacuum works great as well. Some come with debris filters that would also work with a lot of gunk though it will take a lot of runs and cleaning out the filters. Make sure you get your self a good test kit but yea your going to need to keep it super chlorinated for a while to make sure you kill the bad stuff. Eventually you will need to start scrubbing with a brush too.
Unfortunately all of the stuff above is still going to be a lot of use, dump, clean over and over. Other option is to drain it completely and really scrub it but I personally I wouldn't do that myself.
Ouch. You’re correct that the pool is NORMALLY never that full, but there could be some cases where the water may get that high. Prior to opening the pool if you winterize it is one case where that may happen.
You could apply a fairly thick bead of silicone over the crack to seal it. You’ll likely have to reapply it every few years.
I see you asking about a JBWeld product. Pretty sure that stuff won’t like pool water. If you want a more permanent fix than silicone, you want this stuff: https://www.amazon.ca/Aquamend-Epoxy-Putty-oz-Polymeric/dp/B0002V2JHY
Your consideration is flow (1.58 gpm is low) and chemical damage. But they do actually make a tankless pool heater for about $800 (https://www.amazon.com/EcoSmart-POOL-27-Modulating-Technology/dp/B007BJYCMK)
I think you would need to hook your small flow tankless device as a diversion to the main water flow unless you're going to throttle your pump down to that low GPM push.
I have achieved this with a contactor that you activate with the smart switch of you choice. I used this contactor Packard C230B Contacteur 2 pôles 30 ampères Bobine 120 tension https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001KGSJ74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_32A6G1BAZKSD5YZKZEYM
I wired it pretty much like this: https://imgur.com/gallery/awjrtCF
I really like my Zodiac Baracuda G3. Simple yet works great. In 12 years I’ve only had to replace the diaphragm twice. There isn’t much to break and parts are cheap, unlike the other automatic ones with wheels. https://www.amazon.com/Zodiac-BARACUDA-Automatic-Additional-Diaphragm/dp/B01H5Z2NX4/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwhYOFBhBkEiwASF3KGa0KnuKuTI9QlX2X08m1rGs0ZR2RRcmKwQXjXrWBFpOPcqeSnax_UBoCSWgQAvD_BwE&hvadid=178153582522&hvdev=t&h...
Those valves mess with me too. Some the off is the handle others like yours is just the opposite. Normal position is both skim and drain wide open (6 oclock). That far skimmer will still run puny cause it's just further
They make a little plate for Hayward skimmers that you slide across the hole of the near skimmer to make the farther one pull
https://www.amazon.com/Hayward-SPX1075F-Throttle-Replacement-Automatic/dp/B004VTG5MI
$2800 is robbery, get a new system for that here. They make bits that will drill PVC pipes out of fittings and you just reglue. I'd call a plumber of maybe you have a friend of a friend. I'd have to see it but I would replace a the whole valve for $200-250 easy. This is the drill
I’ve found using this one works but it’s so fine that you can use it like a normal skimmer you have to slice from the side and lift up. With a little practice it works great!
Valterra Blue Devil B4105 Pool... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004G4GKZK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
A very common leak location is the light fixtures. Often times when my customers have a leak, and the equipment pad is dry, I'll go ahead and butyl tape their light fixtures just to make sure that won't fix it before they call out for a $400 leak detection.
This video shows somebody applying the butyl tape to a light. If your light isn't too deep, you may be able to do it by reaching over the edge of the pool, but it's much easier to do if you don't mind taking a swim.
This is an amazon link to the butyl tape I've used hundreds of yards of.
I have one I bought off Amazon a few years ago. Still works great but like the other poster says, you have to keep the water level just right. Mine has a remote alarm too that you can place in a room a ways from the pool. I never had to use the remote alarm because the pool alarm is ear piercing. Please also remember that pets can’t easily get out of pools either. I also installed two pet ramps at the opposite corners from the stairs. Pets get confused when they fall in and may swim against the wall until they run out of energy and drown, never making it to the steps. I have an indoor pool and so far this alarm and the addition of two pet ramps has saved my cats from drowning. The steps fold out when not in use and are anchored in the concrete by drilling two holes.
I have a 20 or 30 dollar fix. Add a 3 way valve to the plumbing between the pump and filter. On one setting you have water going to the filter. In the other setting you have water shooting out of the 3 way onto the ground. https://www.amazon.com/Pentair-263037-3-Way-outside-Diverter/dp/B002FQJ2ZG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1531713616&sr=8-1&keywords=3+way+pvc+valve+2%22 This one is 35 at Amazon but your pool supply may have a cheaper one
OR a pair of single on/off ball valves. With those you need a Tee and a vavle on BOTH directions after the tee. One to the filter to stop it running and one to OPEN to allow the water a way to escape onto the ground. 2 of these https://www.amazon.com/Homewerks-VBV-P40-B5B-Schedule-Female-Thread/dp/B0046HAAV2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1531713865&sr=8-3&keywords=pvc+ball+valve
Part number - R0502400
Looks like amazon has it but not prime
Zodiac R0502400 Small Collar with O-Ring Replacement for Select Zodiac Nature2 Water Sanitizers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008E6OKVC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S4m0CbW2DVM1Z
Fiberstars fiberoptic light the box is made by SR Smith... AS6004 i think
bulb should be https://www.amazon.com/LSE-Lighting-compatible-Fiberstars-Y20-6000/dp/B00L3I3YBU
Not sure if you can still buy the lens kit or not.
https://www.ebay.com/p/1027703054 maybe? The V indicates Vinyl, so yours would be a P for plaster or a G for gunite maybe...
My pool is quite old, maybe 40 or 50 years. I wanted to replace the broken light so I splurged on this Hayward LED unit. However, upon attempting to install I was stymied by the presence of three metal studs which extend from the edges of the niche as indicated by the arrows. I guess this is an old mounting standard. The studs are just about a millimeter too tall to allow the Hayward light enclosure to fit. I found this adapter ring on Amazon, but I'm pretty sure this is the inverse of what I would need. If I can't think of any other solution, I'll just have to drain the pool to below the level of the light and grind off the excess metal from the studs, but if anyone can think of another solution, I'd love to hear it.
Pool RX 101066 6 Month Algaecide... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UMOWWW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share I started the season with really bad Mustard Algae. I bought this from Amazon. (I have a 22,000 gal pool. They have different sizes for different pool sizes) Within a few days the mustard algae was gone, and it has stayed away since.
I use this one, but I think any that do NOT attach to your pump would be great! They recharge wet or dry and come with their own filter and "sock" to put over it.
Get one that is rechargeable! Worth the $50 Might be able to find on another site if amazon is out!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07YF8MBS8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Pool rake - https://www.amazon.com/ProTuff-Pool-Net-Unlimited-Replacements/dp/B00KCXXVPQ Ordered one recently as a replacement, but havent really tried it yet. Apparently lifetime warranty w 2000 amazon reviews.
Some of these types have a dustpan like scoop, but probably not needed for the big stuff.
Dont open pools here, so i just know from storm cleanup etc. Sure others will have good ideas!
See this https://www.troublefreepool.com/calc.html Pay attention to chlorine/cya levels, its important.
Post a pic of the pool and someone can chime in on whether draining might be cheaper (usually if smaller, extreamly dirty, or chem tests indicate)
The links there at the top have some info on pool chemistry the colorful/ugly page is for calculating chems if you dont install the pool math app.
You need a test kit like taylor k-2006 amazon Definitely a dropper type not just test strips,this one is known good used by many here, has the tests you need.
Until you get a kit pool stores can test a sample (take straight there, no sunlight so dont stick it on a dasboard etc)
Once you have some levels, you will know what chemicals. Definitely chlorine - you will likely want liquid or cal-hyp but depends on test results. .
The bottom of that link has a ' pool size calculator ' or google that for another to estimate your pool size.
General dirty/green steps - clean skimmers, pump basket, dip everything from the surface and bottom out. Brush the walls. Vacuum the pool. The more you get out, the less chemicals you will need. Clean the filter when dirty (pressure will rise) maybe good to do this anyway since you dont know the lower clean pressure. Adjust the chemicals-repeat brush, vac, clean filter, run pool continuously till clean....
You can leave this pump on top of the pool: PUMP
Heh. I installed the B&D 1.5 myself a while ago. Turned into a much bigger job than I intended. As others have mentioned, there may be a height difference (in my case, the new input was lower than the old one). Not enough straight pipe to cut, so I basically had to rebuild the entire assembly. Because I was doing that we decided to move the pool equipment to a different area. THAT was a pain to dig a trench for the pipe. But in the end it worked out.
As for your setup, yeah - not easy. You've got some assembly work in your future. I've got a suction vac line, and a skimmer line - not sure what the third input is in your setup. Definitely going to need to replace both of those three way Jandy valves.
The output to the pump is of interest to me. I can see you've got a faucet coming out of the pump, and a check valve going towards the filter but I cannot see the reason one might have those. Does the pipe go directly into the filter? Or something else like a solar heater or chlorinator? You might be able to eliminate those.
In general, I'd do your best to replicate the setup you have here. It'd be helpful to see whatever else you have going to the filter. But here's the parts list I'd use:
2x 2" right angle elbows
5x 1.5" Right angle elbows
1.5" and 2" pipe as needed.
I also recommend adding a flow meter (which also conveniently functions as a check valve) so that you can dial in your speeds for your new pump.
Solar heating is another alternative, i installed two of these systems on my garage roof two years ago and it can heat the pool to air temperature and +10 degrees if its sunny. We also use a solar blanket.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004VU98AS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
> the estimated gallons per minute (gpm)
IMO a perfect solution shouldn't even have an estimated GPM. When I installed my VSP, I added a flow meter so I would know exactly how much I'm turning over.
I still have an estimated pool capacity, but when I do a water change this winter, I intend to put a flow meter on the hose I use to refill it, and I'll multiply that by the time it takes to fill and I'll have an exact number there too.
And I agree with your figures. I currently have my pool running at 3000 RPM (right at 80 GPM) for an hour, 2500 RPM (60 GPM) for 3 hours, and then drop that to 1000 RPM (~15 GPM) for 20 hours. On my (estimated) 8000 gallon pool, this puts me at a little over 4x turnover per day.
I'd actually love to change it to two hours at 3000 RPM and run the rest at 1000 RPM, but I still have a suction robot in the pool, and it just can't cover the entire pool in an hour. It needs the 4 hours with sufficient flow to make it run.
I don't know about "best" but I've used this one for a few seasons. Stands up nicely to rain and snow. Not so great against large falling branches, but none of them can handle that.
Not cheap but have used this. Sensor mounts in skimmer then wirelessly sends signal to unit. Powers valve that is plumbed into return line. levelsmart
You can do something a lot cheaper. Connect a cheap sprinkler timer and valve and set to come on X min a day. Will require tweaking.
We bought a pile of these: https://www.amazon.com/Grandaily-Chenille-Bathroom-Non-Slip-Absorbent/dp/B08JHL4LCL. When it's just us, we'll use a few. When we have lot of kids friends over, we pave the way all the way to the bathroom.
What test kit did you get? I'm seeing a lot of strip test kits but I found a Taylor kit on Amazon that looks to be the one I want to get.
I was thinking of getting one for my pool (replaces a 8 1/4 basket). It is stainless steel and supposedly lasts quite a while before starting to rust. And you don't need a sock with it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078HC5VBY/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
I had similar issues. I ended up getting a Wyze outdoor plug and have it set on a timer. Works like a champ and should I need to run it longer, I can just tap a button on my phone to turn the pump back on.
7000gal SW fiberglass inground Bermuda by Latham
CYA at the beginning of the season and use about 8 pounds of Ph Reducer per season. We use between 20-40 pounds of salt every year to maintain. We also need to adjust Calcium Hardness about 1x a year. Our Chemical costs are about $100 per year.
Extras: floating thermometer - every 2 months, sunscreen/pollen sponges for the filter basket - we go through 24-48 Turtles every season. Extras are about $60 per year.
Pool Hardware: Filters (every 3 to 5 years) - $400; Pool Vac Hose (Every 2-3 years) $50, telescoping handles - $50 (every 3 years), brushes & skimmer attachments every 2-3 years ($50).
All of this we do ourselves. the only thing we don't handle is the Beginning of Season Pump Maintenance/Servicing, and corrections/repair if there is a problem.
We clean the salt cell and run regular maintenance (testing, water, filters, etc) ourselves.
I bought this one and have been very pleased with it. It only has one button, which will force an on or off command. The rest is controlled via WiFi with an app or the assistant of your choice. I use my phone to set the timer or just tell Alexa to turn on the pump if I want it on early. It will still turn off at 10 pm. The pump is 1.5 hp single speed 120 volts.
a 330gph came with my pool, i bought a 1000GPH pump, do you think it will work with this: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Intex-Multi-Color-Fountain-Above-Ground/dp/B019E4K8CM/ref=sr_1_5?crid=135AILKINJRIH&keywords=led+pool+fountain&qid=1658598233&sprefix=led+pool+fountain%2Caps%2C54&sr=8-5
If you don't click on links it's on amazon: Intex Multi-Color LED Pool Fountain for Above Ground Pools
I don't think having a Y-connection to connect two pumps to a single output would work. This will cause opposite forces with the flow of the water outtake and in turn, cause the flow of water to weaken and make the weaker pump work harder. The stronger pump would want to dominate the other Y end of the weaker pump. It would just cause problems in the long run.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00012TL3Y?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I bought this Skimmer along with a 2,500 Gal/hour pump and this system I've set up works wonders. I have an Intex 15ft pool.
I have this skimmer and I just attached it to my existing system. I have a BestWay pool with two pool outlets. One gets used on the skimmer and the other one is just a regular strainer outlet. Does your pool not have two outlets?
I would imagine you'd be fine on circulation if doing the wall-mounted skimmer on a single outlet. In fact, it'll probably be more effective than the dual outlet setups as most of those (including mine until I upgraded to a bigger pump) usually require a flow reducer on the non-skimmer attached outlet. I don't think you'd have the need to run a separate pump just for a skimmer.
For a small pool the test strips are fine. The most important factor in a small pool would be ph. You can get a digital ph meter like this one - https://www.amazon.com/Accuracy-Measurement-Household-Drinking-Aquarium/dp/B08197LX6H
In my experience, strips are not very for free chlorine. get a dropper test like this:https://www.amazon.com/Swimming-Chemical-Chlorine-2oz-Otoand-Phenol/dp/B07P1DGLPZ/ref=zg_bs_1272977011_1/132-6097712-4922810?pd_rd_i=B088QQVM82&psc=1
If it's not green clouds try blue clarifier of floccing solution. Since you don't have a very good filter, these will make particles easier to remove.
I'll never run my pool without them.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UHY2TY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Using that one. The color faded fast but otherwise it's holding up.
What type of pump are you using? You'll need a strong pump that will be able to bring in all of the water and what sounds like algae into the filter. Using a brush and vacuum will help you clear it. A brush will lift up the algae and mix it into the water to allow the waterfilled algae to be filtered... BUT YOU NEED A STRONG PUMP to do that.
I too have an above-ground pool, no lie, the same size you have. I had the same problem with green water with the pump that came with it. I toss it and bought this one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005QIYMNM?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
The hose that comes with the pump are bigger than the pool's hoses, so what I did is bought this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RSICZU?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
To allow the bigger hose of the new pump to fit into the small intakes of my above-ground pool. Granted, I took the nuke option and empty the entire pool of the green water and re-filled it. But the new pump is keeping my pool clear and doing its job. But you have to keep maintaining your pool weekly if you want to prevent any algae from growing.
I was in the same boat this week....and I just ordered this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NWJD2HJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I really wanted the "Ultra fine filters" which this one comes with...I can report back in about a week and let you know how it does. :)
That is what I was expecting so I also bought this to help with the finer particles.
Just want to chime in that I have a 15-foot Index pool and while it costs quite a few bucks, a rechargeable vacuum works wonders for this type of pool setup.
It doesn't rely on your pool filter, you don't lose water, just recharge it, put it on a pole, or got in the way with it and suck up all of that patches of dirt.
yes! we ended up getting a skimmer robot which has worked great
You could try to tighten the nut down but best to replace it.
https://www.amazon.com/Hayward-SP1023-2-Inch-Fitting-Locknut/dp/B003ZTM0O2/
Consider whether to replace the skimmer at the same time, if you do the skimmer and return come together in a set.
Also, they have vacuum robots for pools that are pretty good. Dolphin by Maytronics is good.them at least once a week. Also vacuum every week
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When you vacuum, put a tennis ball in the other skimmers, this concentrates the suction. Also get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/ANTOBLE-SP1106-Skim-Ground-Skimmer/dp/B09TK9X3S7/ref=sr_1_3?crid=L6RATSE13BBM&keywords=pool+vacuum+plate+for+skimmer&qid=1655946509&sprefix=pool+vacuum+plate%2Caps%2C413&sr=8-3
Also they have vacuum robots for pools that are pretty good. Dolphin by Maytronics is good.
I bought one on Amazon, after about six months I noticed it was separating along a seam in one spot. Emailed them, they asked for a photo. Sent it and got no reply. Two days later a new one showed up.
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007PZN9Q?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I got this item for 25 bucks. It runs off your hose and is like a vac but with a mesh bag the water jets up making a flow that sucks the leaves in to the bag.
I had a pool that went unfiltered for 4 years before we bought the house. water black like a swap could not see the bottom of the skimmer never mind the pool.
Used this to help get the leaves out before I hit it with revive.
BTW Revive is awesome! I was ready to give up and drain the swamp and used it as a last ditch effort. Glad I did saved me 600 bucks for new water.
Buy a o-ring kit, make your own. Surprisingly cheap, I used them doing service work, life saver
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NQORNZW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yeah, turn off the pump, release the pressure through the valve, and then take the top off the cartridge case. Lift out the filter and take it out in your yard or driveway. I use one of these: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B017XNZMF4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1, it does a great job of cleaning it out. Give the filter a really good wash until nothing is coming out of it. Once a season, use a filter cleaner. Soak the filter in it over night, then give it a good rinse.
The bubbles only coming out of one return is likely that all the air is coming out there. Bubbles in pump basket I dealt with recently as well. I have an inground pool but to fix it I disconnected the pipe to the pool (mine has a screw on cap) and I took the two plugs out that mine has. They will normally be located at the bottom of where the basket is because they hold water in. Depending on size maybe there’s only one plug. And I took the basket lid off itself. I used the lubricant on All the fittings. This is the kind of thing you’re looking for - Haynes Silicone Grease, Food... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CI88AZ4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. Just rub a little bit on that on any o rings and threading. Then put it all back very tight. For my fitting for the pump I used a tool to get it pretty tight obviously being careful since it’s also been asked to overdo with a tool like grippers. This fixed my issue. Bubbles from jets are always suction side of pump
I've got a Hayward with 4 cartridges. It's a pretty easy but labor intensive process, mostly because they are heavy and unwieldy when wet. I use a "Filter Flosser" hose attachment that works pretty well for flushing everything out. For each filter, I clean from top to bottom, flip and repeat until no visible debris comes out of the pleats and the water runs clear.
Remember to lube up the o-ring when you reassemble. Tighten the band by hand, making sure that everything is lined up properly. Give a few taps around the band with a rubber mallet and then tighten up a bit more. Repeat until everything is properly sealed. If you turn it on and water leaks out of the band, disassemble and start again. My first time took 4-5 attempts to get it right but once I figured out the gentle tapping I can get it on the first try.
Pools aren’t cheap to own and maintain, unfortunately. But it’s really important that you get a kit like this. I use the Taylor K-2006C water test kit with a SmartStir and a Taylor SampleSizer. Makes it almost brainless to do the periodic chem checks with a high degree of accuracy and consistency.
I highly recommend you replace those with these: https://www.amazon.com/Polaris-Softube-Connect-Booster-R0621000/dp/B00OZWY898/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=3AWEBWVIY1GAN&keywords=booster+pump+quick+connect&qid=1654895452&sprefix=booster+pump+quick+%2Caps%2C104&sr=8-4
The ones you have are older models and tend to dry rot/crack/break way easier. The ones I shared are much easier to install/deal with, and last far longer (10 years in the industry)
Those check valves add a ton of flow restriction they're not designed for pool use.
If you don't want to pay for a serviceable Jandy type check valve there are cheaper alternatives for pools:
https://www.amazon.com/Pentair-R172288-Corrosion-Resistant-Replacement/dp/B0039LH8PM/
Unless you refinish the pool surface black algae will always come back because it sits inside your pools plaster. Scrubbing with a 3’ chlorine tab can sometimes help with the spots but only for a small amount of time.
https://www.amazon.com/Westbay-Remover-Chlorine-Holder-WBITS029/dp/B08LHCYQNP
Here’s what I found in your budget: Stargoods Pool Skimmer Net, Heavy Duty Leaf Rake Cleaning Tool, Fine Mesh Net Bag Catcher https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BZ8BI7E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gl_i_WH0DX74CYXG0ZTSM7NTS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Just glue in a 3-way valve between the pump and filter
https://www.amazon.com/Jandy-2875-3-Port-2-Inch-Positive/dp/B002SG7NSG
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I use that one and have had no issues. Other people here don't like it, but my pool water has been fine with just that. Everyone here swears by Taylor; I also can't justify that price. Especially when I have a pool store that tests for free 5 minutes away. The strips have been fine for me for just chlorine.
I recommend using a more precise test kit. In my experience, the test strips are not accurate enough to justify cost or convenience. I use this with in ground pool and works great - available on amazon 👌.
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Happy swimming!
Some of my customers have had luck with these.
SkimPro Tower-Vented Skimmer Basket with Tower and Handle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GSXSII4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_X13QM7J5MV7BG956N6TN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
PS: I hate skimmer socks.
Valpak makes the best baskets. You need one for a Whisperflo. Val-Pak V20-200 Whisper-Flo Heavy Duty Pump Basket, Pentair Compatible https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HEATHXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_07S9YQNSGG17PZACKGE2
With the extra outside detector and the level switched into pulse mode will do it.
This is almost certainly DE from a tear in your filter as has been suggested. Exactly same thing happened to me. You are going to have to disassemble the filter, clean the filter and see where it is torn. you can either buy an entirely new filter, or a specific grid. I bought a new one completely. Something like this.
If you are moderately good at DIY it's not a big deal - just make sure you get the right size and type of filter - might be available at your local pool store.
Once you have a new filter in, leave the pump off over night so all the DE settles and then vacuum out.
Put new filter in, charge it with DE (you will need to get some DE on hand if you don't have) and you will be in business.
Welcome to the wonderful world of pool maintenance!
And is this one cheap because it's junk?
Just a capacitor I bet. Once it tries to start and can’t it overheats and the thermal fuse is killing it from the inside until it cools off. I’ve been replacing at least one pretty much every day for the last couple of weeks in Texas. We think the heat gets to them. I always replace them with 50s no matter what size they are. Usually 25-35 but some take the 50 anyway. This is the one I’ve been using for years. 50 uF x 370 VAC Round Run Capacitor by JARD # 12725 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QS5NTW1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9GWC2VPM83Q43PDKX0GP
DEWENWILS Pool Pump Timer, Outdoor Smart Wi-Fi Box, Heavy Duty 40A 120-277 VAC 2HP Wireless Controller Timer for Pool, Water Heater, Compatible with Smart Phone, Alexa, Google Assistant, UL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PP2KNNH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7ARP3VK5KGE0B78FM6KG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Wondering the same. I'm also considering the Wybot (https://www.amazon.com/WYBOT-Cordless-Cleaner-Automatic-Dual-Motor/dp/B09VCJHL6S/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=eyRUE&pf_rd_p=bbb6bbd8-d236-47cb-b42f-734cb0cacc1f&pf_rd_r=5VPJCFYMASM0J8BJD5FR&pd_rd_r=03fc864f-8edf-4cf6-b002-f6c3e1ef4ed0&pd_rd_wg=dhGos&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mi) because it does slopes, though I can't see why the Aiper wouldn't. Ours is the Trilogy Bermuda... it runs from 3'6" to 5'6" over a 24 foot distance so that's about a 6 degree slope. I don't need a wall climber really... just something to vacuum the bottom.
I'm also shopping for the same, currently have a pressure side cleaner, no experience with the robotic ones.. But wanted to mention that the Triton PS appears to be identical to the Proteus DX4, and to the "Doheney" Dolphin Advantage Ultra.
I think you can save $100 by buying one with a different color and name... Although I'm not sure they all have the same warranty?
I highly recommend upgrading to a sand filter. Intel makes some fairly inexpensive ones. Here’s the one I purchased. it makes a huge difference.
I would highly recommend cancelling and ordering this one. You will be able to test for chlorine above 10ppm which is crucial when SLAMing your pool.
TAYLOR TECHNOLOGIES INC K-2006 TEST KIT COMP CHLORINE FAS-DPD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004BGF7TI/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_ZH4YDEESFT6W2MYW5YS4
I would take the o ring off and get both sides of the tank clean and dry. Then run a little bit of lube around each side. A lot of times I will find gunk stuck under the top half of the tank. I use a 5/16 nut driver out of my bag to scrape all that crap off. It’s pretty rare that I have to replace the o ring on pentair filters. Only if you stretch it out between your hands when you’re trying to clean it.
39010200 Tank Clamp O-Ring Replacement Pool and Spa D. E. Filter, Fits Clean & Clear Plus Fiberglass Reinforced Polypropylene Tank Filters, Pentair FNS Plus Vertical Grid Filters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09FDZRM8D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S20TNQECBPMQCVQGK2D9
Here’s one for 15 bucks on Amazon if you need it.
Optimum Pool Technologies Replacement Flow Switch for Pentair IntelliChlor IC20 & IC40 Salt Cell - Replaces 520736 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011DDHHPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VVJXYBNS9JX4XPDS43W9
Try this before you have to buy another cell. Hopefully backwashing the filter really well will help. It’s just odd that the producing lights are on. If the flow switch wasn’t being satisfied you wouldn’t get those four lights at all.