Learn to Timber Frame: Craftsmanship, Simplicity, Timeless Beauty
It has a set of plans with variations on size and modular expansions to fit your needs
It will work, but these usually are not that strong. They also don’t have a wide base, so attaching a clamp can be difficult. I have used a drill stand like this for drilling where I swing the drill holder around. So I have a large base to clamp to and can still drill dead on. It’s a bit heavier, but that adds stability. That may be something you want. I don’t know how large a piece you are drilling through.
>I’m really putting my all into shit I’m exhausted lol.
IT happens, you need a larger sanding apparatus, but suck it up and enjoy the work for the works sake.
“If a man is called to be a street sweeper, he should sweep streets even as a Michelangelo painted, or Beethoven composed music or Shakespeare wrote poetry. He should sweep streets so well that all the hosts of heaven and earth will pause to say, 'Here lived a great street sweeper who did his job well.”
― Martin Luther King Jr.
At the very least buy this yourself, if you have a few of these, and this will be something that you might need to do in the future than this would be something your boss should buy.
I have developed an app (for my company) that calculates deformations and stresses for wooden beams and rafters. It is called ACORD Mobile and it is also capable of fully designing floor and roof beams in accordance with Eurocode 5 (wood, timber)! It seems like it could be of use to people in this subreddit, but I am not certain :)
I'll leave some links if you want to quickly check it out, and tell me if it is a relevant resource:
Android, iOS
Will Beemer’s book is exactly that. Gives full plans plus some variations for a 12x16ft. We used it to build our cabin and it was great (also took a class with him!).
The book I reference in my other comment here is "Wood Structural Design Data Vol 1 Third Edition".
Looks similar to this but mine is spiral bound with pullouts: https://www.amazon.com/Wood-Structural-Design-Data-Third/dp/B0084UHAO2
Try this link, sorry one page got cut off.
Basically it's a excerpt from that crazy good book from the 50s (so the data is old but maybe not useless of course) and I gave you exerpts from the tables on max deflection band max bending and some shear bending moment diagrams that would fit a header's use case, with all the data being specific to a 25 foot span.
Honestly it's not all that useful without the accompanying legends and citations and fomulas but, honestly, I even considered scanning this whole book and posting because it's crazy useful if the data is valid, so maybe someone with more knowledge than myself (a lay Mechanical Engineering B.S. college graduate with no timberframing experience) can speak to that aspect.
The last thing I did was hang my gardening tools on the wall. It turned out very neat and convenient. Also placed snow clearing tools behind the barn. The tools do not take up a lot of useful space and it is quite convenient to use them. I wrote a small review.
Timber Frame Construction: All About Post-and-Beam Building https://www.amazon.com/dp/0882663658/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nbxjEbFHT06Q6
Not sure if Amazon links are allowed.
Timber frame construction by Jack Sobon. Great instructions to build a small timber frame and also how to alter the plans discussed to better for your needs.
What it seems like to me, and IDK nothin', is that the purlin or joist was 1/4" too long and so it was quicker to adjust with square cuts on the girt or rafter than it was to re-cut the depth of the dovetail. I'm halfway through The Timber Framing Book and they mention boxing joints, but I'm unclear on what it means and all the internet want to show me is boxed heartwood centers or box joint jigs. The book defines the term as making adjustments for inconsistent joinery. Seems like what I describe above.
Any input on the matter would be appreciated. Thank you.