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/r/toyotasequoia's
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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/toyotasequoia:
![[Upgraded] TOPGO Cup Holder Phone Holder for Car, Car Cup Holder Phone Mount Universal Adjustable Gooseneck Cup Holder Cradle Car Mount for Cell Phone iPhone 14,Samsung,LG (Black)](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41ENnwRwU2L._SL500_.jpg)
The most popular reviews in /r/toyotasequoia:
I ended up choosing these for the headlights: AUXITO H4 9003 HB2 LED Headlight... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TQLK6SH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And these for the blinkers: iBrightstar Newest 9-30V Super... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WD7Z4R7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Mostly because they were on sale at the moment haha. Not the nicest most expensive, but pretty good
I'm running H4 LED w/mini projectors. Say what you want but this has been the BEST method I found outside of actually retrofitting the housing to take expensive HIDs or LEDs.
To run these properly you will need to remove the light reflector shield inside the headlight housing or else the beam pattern will be all over the place and the bulb will not fit correctly.
I have no issues with blinding oncoming traffic with my setup and light output at night has significantly improved over standard halogen bulbs and LED slip in blubs.
You could give these a try: https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-THINKWORK-Stripped-Remover-Adapter/dp/B0869BR8MG/
I've used them before to remove stuff. find the right size and pound it on with a hammer. then just use a breaker bar and unscrew the nut.
It's 75x31 inches (I think they call it cot-sized). This is the exact amazon listing: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KWFNHMH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_uAJCFbFAJX1W6
It's really nice that it folds up for storage and traveling. With the 2nd row seats folded forward this fits on the floor exactly between the closed hatch and the bottom of the seats. I think you can even keep the right seat down if the bed were on the left side but I have a first aid kit in that rear left cubby that I wanted to be able to grab quickly if needed plus I had no reason to have that seat down.
proclip or the floor mount.
I prefer this one, but it does wobble a bit
mounts to floor seat bolt.
New steering rack bushings may help. Some polyurethane ones are a common replacement. Something like these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003CSR7QM/ref=as_li_qf_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=munnday86-20&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B003CSR7QM&linkId=58c43ae7f010f71676f7c63af5488fa7
This one uses the CD tray but i don't use CDs anyway and it's nice and in plain view without obstructing the windshield.
I use this guy. The magnet is surprisingly strong and has no issues keeping my phone/case in place
Hard to tell with the fan, fluid coupling (fan clutch) and fan pully all cattywumpus like that. First pull the upper radiator shroud (four bolts on the radiator, and two clips at the bottom of each side...you can see one of the clips at the bottom of your photo). With the upper shroud out of the way, you can see what you're dealing with a little better. In a normal situation, a couple of long zero-offset 12mm wrenches (something like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HPC7KFY/ref=dp_iou_view_item?ie=UTF8&th=1) are what you'd use to get the fan clutch off the pully, but you'll have to play it by ear with the pully screwed up like that.
This one worked for me:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089VSQVXK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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the place that cut the key programmed it.
GG Grand General 77650 Amber Thin Line 6-LED Marker and Clearance Sealed Light, Amber/Amber https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ECTQNF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_zpyvUrAMLyXp1
They are holding up great so far. They are spliced into my headlights.
It’s been mentioned before, but [these lights](AUXITOH49003LEDHeadlight...https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TQLK6SH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share work great and don’t blind anyone on the road in the factory housings.
You should replace everything. The latch, cable and the lock actuator. Mine finally worked once I did that. Amazon has the parts. I will look them up.
/u/DubTeeF is saying get a set of these: https://amazon.com/Speaker-Splitter-Conductor-Shielding-Flexible/dp/B08YVM3Q6K/
You have to look at the RCA plugs (pre-outs) and see which one are meant for speakers. You will probably see 2 for subs and 2 for speakers. Connect the Y adapter to the ones labeled speakers and plug the 4 RCA cables you have (white/gray/blue/green) into the Y splitter and pray for the best. Good luck!
Okay, question. My aftermarket stereo I’m wanting to put in has the big colored circular plugs, but the colors from the parts you linked don’t match with my new stereo’s plugs. Is there another adapter that goes from maybe a female plug to straight wires? This is the stereo, Double Din Car Stereo Compatible... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091G9JY8N?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I purchased these for my sequoia. They have the right angle, don’t require adjustments, and didn’t require me to cut the rubber headlight cap. Only downside, they don’t turn off if the lights are off, but I always drive in auto mode and I could add a resistor if I felt like it.
I just ordered the Curt hitch, hasn’t arrived yet. I have a 21 pro, so gotta trim the skid a bit by the tow hooks but should work out just fine.
The connector looks to be a aftermarket connector so you can either look on crutchfield, Amazon, or even a local stereo shop and get a new pigtail to wire into the new radio.
As for the radio issue. There are a few brands that had some issues with radios that would do that, I had a Panasonic that would do that but might look at the red wire going into the radio and check the connection as it might be a bad splice. Or it might be a bad solder joint inside the radio.
Here is an example for a pigtail: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004W34BYM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_0XHASRBC1Y947HNDDTTC
GG Grand General 77650 Amber Thin Line 6-LED Marker and Clearance Sealed Light, Amber/Amber https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ECTQNF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_zpyvUrAMLyXp1
They are holding up great so far. They are spliced into my headlights.
Fixing that panel (if the plastic piece isn't broken) requires a combo of the clips below, and two small screws:
Febrytold 100Pcs Trim Door Panel Retainer Clips https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CV5LRVR/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_FQ083ZAPEMT7BE0E7PJ6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
uxcell A15072300ux0057 30 Pcs Yellow Plastic Rivet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016XH23Z8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_YQ40W5572H02RC1WKFGS
These are good to have, especially if you're about to do the radio. These things break all the time, so spares are helpful.
Would you mind sending me a PM with your VIN? I want to look up your rear tailgate P/N. Your 'Sequoia' lip over the license plate is Black from the factory, and mine is a horrible silver. Would be awesome to swap it for a black one to finish my black-out.
I just did this. Maybe 3 months ago with no issues so far with overheating. Totally worth it. I angled it to try to avoid blinding people when they see me in the rear view.
One tip: if you want to use fog lights still. Make sure to get a resistor for one of the sides (two works but only one is needed). My foglights were not working after I did the conversion and the resistor fixed it. I think the foglights draw power from the headlight or at least activates a relay of some sort.
Yes, I have installed those LED lights and it totally worth it! Sequoia 07 limited.
Fahren H4/9003/HB2 LED Headlight Bulbs, 60W 12000 Lumens Super Bright LED Headlights Conversion Kit 6500K Cool White IP68 Waterproof https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZD8CGNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7G3038W9HCCHGFT69Z0J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Since LED runs excellent, there isn't much heat to decapitate. Old school HID super hot and not efficient.
3 times in one session. The kit had the compound and sanding discs of three different grit levels that attached to the pad by velco. The last one was very fine and was where the magic really happened.
https://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY/ref=asc_df_B001AIZ5HY/
I have a 2012 Platinum with TRD super charger and TRD front brakes. Our family loves it - 2 teenage boys, a wife and 2 dogs . Towed our Forest River Wolf Pup 17JG (5000lbs GVWR, 23' 4") all over Colorado and parts of Wyoming last summer up and down the mountains did not use an e-hitch - having those factory airbags in back helped quite a bit. Picking up a new 28foot trailer (Heartland North Trail 24bhs, 6900 GVWR, 28') this Friday. Having LazyDays install an e-hitch. Also will be installing tow mirrors, I got these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Z8QSBFW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hi, I just installed this on my Toyota Sequoia 07 Limited. They worked great.
Fahren H4/9003/HB2 LED Headlight... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZD8CGNQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Yesterday I also did the Mothers NuLens, and wow, what a difference!
I have an '04 with the Pioneer AVH-W4500NEX. Look great, supports wireless CarPlay and Android Auto, which was a huge selling point for me. HU is feature rich and budget friendly (albeit not cheap), and you can grow into it's more advanced options if you decide to setup additional amps/subs in that vehicle.
Pioneer AVH2400NEX (Amazon Link) - I updated the firmware as soon as I bought it, and have had nothing but good experiences with this model. Highly recommend.
Amp/Subs are highly personal depending on your goals. Do you just want a little bump in the trunk? 2 10s in the hatch will be plenty. If you're looking for a competition style setup, you can definitely fit 4 15s in a 4th-order box in the back, but will likely lose the third row of seats. Brands to pay attention to: DC Audio, JL Audio, Crescendo, Sundown. Stay away from flea markets and Chinese junk amps.
Before doing too much excessive, I'd recommend getting a high output aftermarket alternator. And don't skimp on cheap power/ground wires for your amps and/or big 3. OFC is the way to go.