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Good place to start would be to get a 55 gallon tank used. People sell them dirt cheap on Facebook market place and whatever all the time. That's a good tank size for now, in years down the road I believe getting an even larger tank might be necessary but that should be good for a a few years. They need uvb lighting and a place to bask in it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002O09MYE/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_GYYDAAZPRK0DDRTR1E4R
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08S6RRMVS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_KMXHW2VTDTCND7QDX6SS
There's other options out there but those are some cheap bulbs that I have used and thought did fine, as well as in my opinion the best looking/ best size and easiest basket spot you can get. You literally just put it on top of the tank and put the heat bulb above it.
He has an infection in his eyes. Water might be the issue but the eye thing can be easily cured with drops you can order on amazon. I know because I just went through this age weeks ago:
Turtle Eye Drops https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001D783VW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kuVhzbAFVHWAF
If money is tight you can take a chance at a sunsun cheap chinese canister. I've never used one myself but I've seen people have pretty decent success with them. Reviews are very positive.
This one is cheaper than your power head by a fair chunk and also includes a UV sterilizer: http://www.ebay.com/itm/300940705938
Here's one on amazon which is much larger for a good price too: https://www.amazon.com/HW-404B-5-Stage-External-Canister-Sterilizer/dp/B00C91OTL4
Hey! So this arrived -- which color blade do you use? I tried the green scrubbing pad, and that actually made the sides worse. So then I tried the yellow one, and it seemed like it was scratching the glass, so I stopped. I didn't try the red plastic blade yet. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072JGYU2?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2\_dt\_b\_product\_details
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002YPZDBK
But...any cuttlebone should be fine. Any pet store should have them because birds need them as well.
Turtles need them for additional calcium (females need them even more because they're larger and they produce eggs).
I use egg crate covers now they're cost effective and DIY, but I've used the Zilla Cover before (buy the clips that secure it also) and modified it by cutting out wiring to allow lights/filter input/output. Another option is to get a window screen kit from your local hardware store and make a screen cover that way. Remember to cut holes for lights/filter though.
My girl always had a hard time with that version of a platform. Even the largest one is just barely her width. It's also hard to stay suctioned, and she can't get on it when it's not 100% still. (Plus, she's the one that loves to take it off the wall lol)
I bought this one on Amazon (http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006L12HS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00) and they're both really into it. It's much easier for her to use because it's stationary and is easier for her to get onto. I highly recommend it.
Adding a photo of my two turtles playing turtle stacking on their platform: https://instagram.com/p/3sNG_Nwrkb/
Aww, I’m glad you decided to keep Bella! :)
Cooters and sliders have a similar diet where hatchlings (less than a year old) and juveniles (1 year old) eat 50% protein and 50% veggies, and adults (2 years or older) eat 70% veggies and 30% protein. For veggies, green leaf lettuce and red leaf lettuce are great options you can get at your local grocery store, and you can feed them one leaf a day that is the size of their shell (at any age). Take out whatever they don’t eat at the end of the day so it doesn’t rot. For protein it’s good to use turtle pellets (Mazuri is the most recommended), and give them enough that could fit in their head (excluding the neck); hatchlings should get pellets once a day, juveniles can get pellets about 3 or 4 times a week, and adults can get pellets 2 or 3 times a week. For treats, they can have fruit or dried/live animals like rivershrimp and/or mealworms—but you only want to give those maybe once every two weeks. Veggies and pellets should be their main food sources.
So for now, pellets and veggies every day, and as they get older you can cut back on their pellets but continue to feed them veggies every day.
(Continued)
Diet RES hatchlings (less than a year old) and juveniles (1 year old) eat 50% protein and 50% veggies. Adult RES (2 years or older) eat 70% veggies and 30% protein. For veggies, green leaf lettuce and red leaf lettuce are great options you can get at your local grocery store, and you can feed them one leaf (for each turtle) a day that is the size of their shell. Take out whatever they don’t eat at the end of the day so it doesn’t rot. For protein it’s good to use turtle pellets (Mazuri is the most recommended), and give them enough that could fit in their head (excluding the neck); hatchlings should get pellets once a day, juveniles can get pellets about 3 or 4 times a week, and adults can get pellets 2 or 3 times a week. For treats, they can have fruit or dried/live animals like rivershrimp and/or mealworms—but you only want to give those once a week or once every two weeks. Veggies and protein/pellets should be their main food source. Make sure to put their food in the water as they need it to eat since they don’t produce saliva.
I think that covers all the essentials! Please let me know if you have any more questions :)
(Continued)
Diet RES hatchlings (less than a year old) and juveniles (1 year old) eat 50% protein and 50% veggies. Adult RES (2 years or older) eat 70% veggies and 30% protein. For veggies, green leaf lettuce and red leaf lettuce are great options you can get at your local grocery store, and you can feed them one leaf (for each turtle) a day that is the size of their shell. Take out whatever they don’t eat at the end of the day so it doesn’t rot. For protein it’s good to use turtle pellets (Mazuri is the most recommended), and give them enough that could fit in their head (excluding the neck); hatchlings should get pellets once a day, juveniles can get pellets about 3 or 4 times a week, and adults can get pellets 2 or 3 times a week. For treats, they can have fruit or dried/live animals like rivershrimp and/or mealworms—but you only want to give those once a week or once every two weeks. Veggies and protein/pellets should be their main food source. Make sure to put their food in the water as they need it to eat since they don’t produce saliva.
I think that covers all the essentials! Please let me know if you have any more questions :)
UVA and UVB bulbs both are important. Make sure you have a high wattage lamp or they will burn out in a week. Cascade canister filter that is labeled for at least 1.5x the tank size you have. It will work well and I recommend an above tank basking area so they have more room. You can make one with a PVC pipe, egg crate, and zip ties. I modeled mine after this:
This is a good alternative:
Exo-terra riverbed sand is insanely fine sand.
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I used it in my tanks and ended up removing it because it packed so hard because of how fine it is, oxygen can't penetrate the substrate and I ended up getting pockets of anaerobic bacteria under the sand. Which when the sand would get kicked up while cleaning it would smell like a toxic waste dump.
I am going to give OP the benefit of the doubt on the bulb but there is room for improvement with the enclosure. There is always room for improvement for all of us. I have 3 turtles and 3 tanks and I am always trying things to improve my turtles quality of life..
As for the bulb: They could have a mercury vapor bulb like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TQG6DRI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
That bulb provides UVA and UVB light instead of having two bulbs but I do worry about that lighting fixture. If it is not rated for the bulb it could cause a fire. Heck I had a fixture arc and it was rated for the bulb I was using (just bad luck). Luckily I was near by and saw it arc..
There’s a bunch of different kinds on Amazon but the one in the picture I have is this one: DaToo Aquarium Power Filter in-Tank Ultra Silent Small Fish Tank Filter 3W for Aquarium 1 to 10 Gallon Tank, 1 Yr Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DW577GB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FMNPQV95QHKQQZY5VX3E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Just letting you know it’s alright with substrate, but I take it all out filter (to rinse through) and water change twice a week anyways just because it’s better for them lol. If you don’t have Amazon, top fin at the pet stores have a decent small filter similar in size to this one, as well. It’s like for bettas up to 5 gal size. ☺️🐢
He used to have a 20 gallon tank with a budget waterfall filter. We had to deep clean it every other week & it took hours. It really made me question the turtle as a pet. He was getting too big for his tank and I decided to get him a large 70 gallon tank with an oversized 100 gallon quality filter (Fluval 407). Now we have to change his filter once a month and we have to do a half hour cleaning job every 3 months. At this point we haven't had to change his water. He's a much more low maintenance pet now. We also add Algaefix to his tank once a month.
tldr; Get an oversized filter and put algae treatment in.
Sludge destroyer. Made by API, worth its weight in gold. Also make sure to do weekly water changes- at least 1/4 of the tank. 1/2 is better but at the VERY least 1/4
https://www.amazon.com/API-Turtle-Sludge-Destroyer-8-Ounce/dp/B0117U25BS
Turtles are pretty hardy, but obviously it always helps to have better water quality! This is what I use. I’m not too versed on this part and I’m trying to get better as well but from what I’ve read this stuff is supposed to be pretty great:
API TAP Water Conditioner, Instantly neutralizes Chlorine, chloramines and Other Chemicals to Make tap Water Safe for Fish, Highly Concentrated, Use When Adding or Changing Water and When Adding Fish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_5YHD4JW9PJY3989299DM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Definitely upgrade the size of that tank as soon as you are able to. It is kind of the equivalent of trying to raise a human in a bathroom stall. About lights, I’m not advocating for this brand in particular, but in Canada this is a pretty normal price for a combo pack. Probably on Amazon you can find an equivalent to ship to your country
Zoo Med Combo Pack Turtle Lamp https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00CYDE3WW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_R2EGDSKPGH8VET5XX0DX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You will get will get this, oil slick like spots on the surface of your water if there is no surface agitation. It's usually bacteria colonies.
i.e. in nature if you see a completely calm pond, its going to develop all sorts of gunk on the surface. Compare that to a flowing stream or Lake.
They make water circulators for aquariums. If the surface water is agitated (i.e. moving) these bacterial colonies cant form.
I use one like this, they have different sizes for different amounts of water and the filter cartridges are really easy to change :) I'm not an expert though so idk if it's technically the "best" kind one lol but I've been using this kind for about 6 years and it hasn't broken yet
Nah, but their organs are already moving at the same angular velocity. The problems come in if you use some means (like a rocket) to rapidly decelerate them to 0 degrees and 0 mp/h.
Conversely, if the turtle survives escape velocity and is coasting toward Jupiter at 11,000 kp/h, that's cool too. If on the other hand you want to accelerate them to double that speed in a short period of time, then we must measure accelerator in g's or g forces as in gravity. So if the rate of acceleration is 1g, that would actually be awesome but if we want 40,000 kp/h in 2 minutes, that's 24 g's of acceleration or 24x their body weight on Earth.
Obviously, you want to use an ion engine once you're already in space. They have a slow rate of acceleration but they can run for extended periods of time and so that low acceleration just keeps adding up. A rocket uses lots of fuel but can get the turtle to a high speed in a couple minutes instead of a couple weeks as is the case for the ion engine.
Reference (Earth escape velocity is like 11km/s or 11,000 km/h): Acceleration Calculator
Thank you! He is a very spoiled guy!
Here’s the link to the plant:
SLSON Reptile Plants Hanging Silk... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F8R4K14?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It has a suction cup to stick on the wall, but I just leave it loose to hang over one of his hides and give him more privacy.
Put the heater lamp on a timer like this
And get this for automatic feeding
or
Rock Dock Medium Size FYI. It's just big enough for a ~4" musk turtle to take a breather and relax for a bit, but not suitable as the only basking spot. The clear platform on the left is under the heat/Uv bulbs.
Basking a lot can be a sign of sickness, that she is going through a growth phase, or that the water is a bit too cold. Resting their head is pretty normal behavior. The flaking on her shell just indicates she is growing. You can remove any of her peeling scutes that you can pop right off, but if they don’t pop right off, leave them on and she will remove them through basking and rubbing them on stuff in the tank.
See if you can get a steel encased (safer) water heater to bring the water temp up to about 80* Fahrenheit. Water temp should run between 75-80F. While she should bask a few hours a day, bumping up the heat will promote less over-basking and more importantly help fight infections. I have a hygger Saltwater Tank Heater.
I find big sponge or external canisters to be much more effective.
AQUANEAT Sponge Filter, for Aquarium Fish Tank, Betta, Nano, Shrimp, Fry, Bio Filter with Airline Tubing, Air Pump Valves, Suction Cups https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L565N7H/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_3G297QDSDACTFCKZRQRN?psc=1
FUTED Aquarium Air Pump, Adjustable Fish Tank Bubbler Oxygen Pump with Dual Outlet, Aerator Pump with Silicone Tube Check Valves Air Stones, Suitable for 1- 80 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0972V1BJ9/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_SSNCT94QJ4QFTMXRBFKM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
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Plus plenty of access to UVB, calcium, and possibly a trip to the vet.
When I got my turtle this is how I set up his tank because this is how the pet store had him.
Then the next day I read about what turtles need and set him up right. I never planned to spend $200+ on a habitat. But he’s brought the family a lot of enjoyment and I’m glad I did.
You can improve his life significantly in a few days. Fill up the tank and get a turtle topper (link below) for $45.
Maybe you can set up a GoFundMe or check eBay / Craigslist /NextDoor for a larger tank.
Penn-Plax Reptology Turtle Topper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002O09MYE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_TKM1Z67YRZ2WR733TGXW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It took mine a week to finally use the topper but he loves it.
Shoot this one is actually 35 now. I think it was more like 30 when I got it. But anyways I got it more than a year ago and it works great! (I use one uvb10.0 bulb and a full spectrum heat lamp bulb. It's like 10 bucks for both on amazon and I replace them once every 6 month) also you can only use one bulb you don't need both. https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Aquatic-Turtle-Lighting/dp/B00CYDEARU
We had pebbles at the bottom but they were larger and I don't think the turtle would have been able to eat them being so small. And I had read multiple things saying that the pebbles were okay but to avoid using sand. Is that not correct? As far as the water level we would keep it above the minimum line for the filter but not so high that the turtle couldn't get to the basking dock area. We also had some artificial plants in there that the turtle liked to swim up and rest on with its head out. The Amazon link below is the tank that we got and the picture they use it where we would typically have the water level.
Just an fyi, those look like mud or musk turtles which should have a basking area, but aren't big on basking like sliders or painted turtles. Don't be too surprised to not see them basking often.
I have a 3 striped mud turtle, I personally have one of the units below above my basking area with both a UVB bulb and a heat bulb, on a timer to be on during the day.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CWKXYPP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You're going to want a thermometer with a probe like this to make sure it's the correct temperature, which will vary a bit depending on the species.
I have my yellow bellied slider in a 75g tank with a lot of fish and this is what I use. I didn’t even use half of them but it has a large variety to choose from. I got it specifically for the aquarium part of my tank. So it works well. 18 Pcs Artificial Green Water... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0897ZMPGQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Fluval FX6 is probably the best rated canister filter for 125+ gallons or turtle tank. https://smile.amazon.com/Fluval-Canister-Filter-FX6-400/dp/B00BJQ50HC It's a friggin beast of a filter, and probably the best designed filter I've used. Pricey though.
If budget is a major concern SunSun does make a larger filter. I've used their smaller ones with good luck before, but I've never tried their larger filters. https://smile.amazon.com/Sunsun-HW-704B-External-Canister-Sterilizer/dp/B015JMQRNC
If you’re not feeding inside the tank you’ll mostly be dealing with poop and high ammonia levels. You can buy a siphon (super cheap on amazon) to remove the poop that settles then you can do a half water change. Since you don’t have a filter I suggest you do a full water change as often as possible but doing half is better than letting them swim in super dirty water.
After doing a bit of research on the turtle I read an article that states
Mauremys terrapins are highly tolerant of a wide range of water conditions; they are found in acid, alkaline and brackish water. Unlike Emys orbicularis (the European pond terrapin) with which they are sometimes sympatric, Mauremys spp. can also survive in severely polluted waters.
Even with this information you should try and get a filter as soon as possible.
My zilla 40 gallon filter only cost 21 on Amazon and it’s meant for turtles I have it in a 10 gallon and it does a great job at picking up the debris.
How long does it take for a map turtles shell to harden?
I inherited four northern map turtles -or- common map turtles one week ago. Two of them were captured about a month ago, and the smallest one has a carapace that is not very firm on the sides, especially when compared to the bigger ones. It feels like soft bendy plastic when it's wet, and feels brittle when it dries out. The carapace is about 1.5 inches long if that says anything about his age. I'm pretty confident they are all male.
He has spent the last two days mostly out of the water today was my first day home all day, and he has slept the whole day. I don't know if he has eaten recently. He stayed out of the water during the last feeding. I tried to feed him when he got back in the water for a bit but he didn't eat then. I've had romaine floating in the water, so it's possible he's had some of that.
I've read a lot about turtle care in the past week and I think I have my aquarium set up pretty well. I've got some slow release calcium in the water: https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Laboratories-SZMMD11-Slow-Release/dp/B0061TC8C2/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?dchild=1&keywords=cuddle+bone+turtle&qid=1598139658&sr=8-17
I've read about metabolic bone disease, so that's my concern.
Any help would be appreciated!
How long does it take for a map turtles shell to harden?
I inherited four northern map turtles -or- common map turtles one week ago. Two of them were captured about a month ago, and the smallest one has a carapace that is not very firm on the sides, especially when compared to the bigger ones. It feels like soft bendy plastic when it's wet, and feels brittle when it dries out. The carapace is about 1.5 inches long if that says anything about his age. I'm pretty confident they are all male.
He has spent the last two days mostly out of the water today was my first day home all day, and he has slept the whole day. I don't know if he has eaten recently. He stayed out of the water during the last feeding. I tried to feed him when he got back in the water for a bit but he didn't eat then. I've had romaine floating in the water, so it's possible he's had some of that.
I've read a lot about turtle care in the past week and I think I have my aquarium set up pretty well. I've got some slow release calcium in the water: https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Laboratories-SZMMD11-Slow-Release/dp/B0061TC8C2/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?dchild=1&keywords=cuddle+bone+turtle&qid=1598139658&sr=8-17
I've read about metabolic bone disease, so that's my concern.
Any help would be appreciated!
I am using Fluval Ammonia Remover, 180-gram Nylon Bags - 3-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AQKK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SuxIDbN360FM7 and one of these Fluval Zeo-Carb, 150 Gram, 3-Pack Nylon Bags https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AQKKC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uwxIDbZE245TT
Both are supposed to be replaced next week, they are good for 1 month. I will remove them now though... I don't know what is up with this.
I use this Aqueon water changer. It will operate fine with even an inch or less of water. Just hook one end to a faucet and put the vacuum end in your tank, turn the faucet on and the water pressure from your faucet will drain the tank water down your sink! Then you can flip the valve and refill the tank as well. No buckets! You can get one with a 50 foot hose if your sink is too far from your turtle tank.
I'll admit that the light often stays on overnight which I realize now is dumb. I wasn't thinking about it when they were eating and behaving normally but now that they aren't I'm nervous that is why. I have ordered a timer for the light. The water is a bit above room temperature. The turtles sort of fell into my lap so I don't know exactly what kind they are. I feed them two different types of food. This and the little shrimp from the same brand sometimes. The turtles are probably around 10 years old. Their tank has a filter in it and I clean it about once a week. Is it possible they are just exhausted and they'll start eating again once they are able to rest without the light?
I use a floating basking dock. I use This one. It will adjust based on the water level. This one won't work very well for a large turtle, so again you'll have to upgrade in the future.
I did a DIY sump filter that you can find plans for all over the place.
I have a siphon overflow on my aquarium with a small pump attached to it to prevent losing it's siphon or restarting it after power failure/water changes.
The water flows into the top draw of filter floss for filtering, then trickles into the second drawer over top of plastic scrubbies and finally into the the third drawer where it is filled with lava rocks that are permanently submerged in water. A water pump returns the water to the top of the tank have the process repeat itself over and over.
I further ran a small water line (think freezer ice maker water line) that constantly tops off the tank from evaporation and cycles the water to some extent to the point where I do water changes about every two-three months. In the second photo of the sump you can see an overflow tube that takes any excess water down to my basement to a drain there. Water changes every couple months isn't so much a necessity as the water clarity and pollutants really don't change in that time frame but I do it for peace of mind/get the gunk the guppies aren't eating off the bottom.
For water changes I can't recommend the python enough. It is crazy how easy this has made water changes for my aquariums.
The ones in the link I provided don't come with filter media so be ready for that.
For 4 tray's I would be using:
- Course Pad
- SeaChem Matrix
- Scoria (Rinse thoroughly, scoria is great cheap filter media but has a lot of red dust)
- Ceramic Noodles
Looks like SunSun have their own pads. Use the blue one as your course pad and pop the wool pads over the top of your media on each tray for mechanical filtration. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KM9ZJ5A
Also if your after that super clear water, A Purigen pillow on your last tray works wonders.
I found this one because iam in Canada.Sorry Iam kinda of new to canister filters each section out of 4 gets one filter media. 1st section gets course pad, 2nd get SeaChem ect right?
I also have an Aqueon, it's a bit different though. The 100 watt version works really well in my 40 gallon breeder tank! http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Submersible-Aquarium-Heaters-100-Watt/dp/B000YAJK02?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
Ah good to know. Maybe I should test the PH of my tap water before I put it in the tank.
At work now (I really should be working but need a break) and I do not have a good pic of the tank on my phone. I will update later tonight.
I have been using filter floss, instead of the round filter pads, for almost a year now on my FX6 without issue (water is crystal clear). I also did the same thing with the 306 that I am using on my 28 gallon glofish tank. Needless to say I do not let the turtles play in that tank or I would not have any fish.
I get filter floss similar to this at the local pet store: http://www.amazon.com/Acurel-LLC-100-Percent-Polyester-14-Ounce/dp/B00176AZ4C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1461165181&sr=8-3&keywords=filter+floss
You can also just buy nylon fiber at the big box stores.
Also do you have any problems with your turtle(s) trying to take a bite out of your cichlids?
Also I would love to see a pic.
That looks like it could be a bacterial infection. Get your little guy to a vet. Also the eyes are swollen so there's a Vit A deficiency, look for turtle eye drop.
Your filter is probably too small. How big is your tank? How many turtles do you have?
You generally need a filter much bigger than you would with fish, so it needs to be oversized.
I have this one, which is supposedly for a 150 gallon tank, in a 55 gallon tank. It keeps up pretty well. I clean out the filter about every 3 months. I do a 1/2 water replacement with fresh water every month.
Thank you. I will look into trying to build some sort of larger box in the next month or so, can't really get the free time to do it while ive got the kid. The little girl is pretty into digging around for bugs and stuff, so getting her to catch him some earthworms occasionally for him wont be a problem when it warms up.
Ive ordered some coconut fiber and a half hollowed log thing to hide in.
I worry about a heat LAMP right now until shes got a bigger enclosure so she can move out of the heat if she wants, would putting a little heat stone or one of those small under tank heaters on one side work for now?
Is this sorta thing alright for calcium?
Typically, you'll use a separate heating/basking bulb and UVA/UVB bulb. Most light fixtures will allow the use of the UVA/UVB bulb, but the basking bulb may need a special ceramic casing because of the heat being generated (can be an electrical or fire hazard if the fixture is not rated to work with the bulb). If you aren't sure if what you have will work, you can find relatively cheap casings that work great for both on amazon or at your local pet store, something like this.
Even during warmer months, it's important to have a nice temperature gradient across the tank (basically, a basking spot), but it's more important that they stay warm.
I completely understand taking on a pet unexpectedly and being unprepared. The important thing is that you learn and make adjustments accordingly. :)
Good luck!
Essentially something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Turtle-Gallon-Tanks/dp/B000256ELM
I cant tell how big your turtle or tank is from the pictures though so maybe a different size will do you but I got the biggest size for my RES who is about 6.5 inches and i feel he will soon outgrow it so it will only be a temporary solution. The suction cups are always coming off and I hear after a year or more they might be start falling apart but I haven't had mine that long yet. Still its buoyant so it wont trap your turtle and it adjusts to the water so it will always be available.
Do you think this is harmful for the turtle?
Eforcase 100 Pcs Luminous Cobblestones Pebbles Stones Glow in the Dark for Aquarium Fish Tank Gravel Decorations,Fantastic Garden or Yard (Blue) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KXR7MYC/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_tgaMvbQYT8QH9
I am using the Jebao pond filter 2000 gal with a Jebao pump 6000. So much better than an average canister filter. Note the reviews on the filter is pretty bad on amazon, but ive been using mine for close to a year, no leaks, no issues, since I am not pushing the filter to its limits (lower flow rate). But alot lesser maintenance needed since its huge.
Have not opened and cleaned the filter for about a year. Used the backflow flushing/cleaning once every 3 mths.
I have 2 RES, 20yr old and 3 yr old
I have two lights set up for my male slider as well as the water heater itself. One is a heat lamp and the other is a uvb bulb which is like artificial sunlight to help with colors/shell/digestion. I personally recommend a turtle topper, sliders love to swim so it allows a full tank of water as well as a basking area that you can clamp your lights on.
edit: turtle topper