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During disassembly, I will pre clean area's extra dirty with alcohol or even lighter fluid to get the stubborn stuff off first. Jewel holes get cleaned with surgical swabs and isp alcohol. Main plate gets precleaed as well. I use a ultra sonic with zenith non ammonia cleaner. I use a mason jar with just enough to cover the parts. Then purified water rinse the a reagent alcohol final rinse. Then into the dehydrater. For ss case and bracelet parts I use simple green concentrate. Works great on ss. Water rinse and dry. A ultra sonic like thisone Works great. More power works great. The precleaning keeps my main cleaner, clean longer,.the water rinse is cheap and always get changed every time. The alcohol displaces and water preventing rust issues.. A simple but effective system.
This thing is AWSOME! FIFTY BUCKS$ works like a charm, SD card and monitor/PC link. I couldn’t be happier with this thing. Get you one!
Elikliv EDM4 4.3" Coin... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QB79SN6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
IIRC, this is considered a capacitor, not a battery. Typically they last about 10 yrs with regular use. The one I found online shows the welded “strap” on the side. Be sure to position the strap so it drops easily into the right spot in the battery compartment. If it’s not properly positioned, the possibility of shorting out is real.
Who knows what will happen in 5 or 10 yrs? Not I!
So like this? Then just put near boiling water in there and run it? For how long? And how confident are you that this will work? Do you think I will need any other tools to go with this to fully remove the glass?
I have one of these. I run a live camera view full screen on my adjacent computer screen and can hit the "Save" button as appropriate. It has an adjustable focus so you can get real close in or back off.
I have a 95 Victorinox that has a snap back from Hades. I bought one of these, and was able to easily remove the back. It also works well on Seiko bezels (plain metal ring, haven't tried it on a rotating bezel yet).
Your biggest problem is that microscope uses integrated eyepieces, which means there's no threads to utilize for a camera adapter. So, you'll need to measure the outer diameter of those eyepieces, and then order the correct over eyepiece mount like this. Ultimately, you're looking at spending $100 bucks for an adapter like that, then another $100 or so for a C-mount microscope camera. Whether it's worth doing for a scope that cheap is ultimately up to you, but that's your parts list there friend! 👍
> By the time you buy a press, a micrometer and three crystals, you may wish that you had paid a watch shop to do it. On the other hand, you may never have to pay anyone else to replace a watch battery ever again.
That's a great way to put it :D
It is exactly this watch: https://www.amazon.com/Disney-MK1080-Mickey-Mouse-Rubber/dp/B00AQCW51O/
I was thinking there'd be a data base somewhere with the glass sizes. Or do they vary slightly between individual items?
You are making progress!
You should be able to press the crystal out and in with a press like this. With any luck, yours has a gasket for the crystal and you can re-use it. Otherwise you get to go down an adhesives wormhole.
Not sure if you case back was snap on or screw on. The same press can be used to close snap on case backs.
Hello, welcome to the sub. I think it's unnecessary at this moment if you don't see anything wrong. You can check it's accuracy using a time grapher or a WatchCheck app (Android). Usually any internal damage can be seen from it's timekeeping accuracy.
You can use glue or bezel tape rings.
Glue: https://www.esslinger.com/amp/gs-crystal-hypo-cement-glue-watch-crystal-/
Tape (get the right size) like this: https://www.amazon.com/Adhesive-Rings-Sticking-Insert-Submariner-GMT/dp/B07D6T27GB
Just press in and hold for a few seconds and you’ll be fine.
I am looking at this which heats to 133°F. Would that be too hot?
I scoff in the face of research! DAMN THE TORPEDOS!
That said, there is absolutely no doubt in my mind that I applied too much force.
I ordered https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HL3VJD3/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0928HNGKV/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to help me move forward.
At the end of the day... I was bored and this looked like an entertaining way to play in a repair space I don't normally occupy. If I can keep the entire experience at less than $150, I'll consider it money well spent.
Links to what I have added:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072R5QSRG?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details - 200RPM 12V DC gear motor
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09VKVV5B8?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details - 10 inch rotating stand for jars
I found a taller version of the ball mason jars that are 24 ounce. This should enable you to raise the basket within the jar and spin off most of the solvents.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0725J3TXM?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
Something like this. It has to be smooth, but not slippery. Somewhat strong. Inflatable allows you to adjust how much it deforms. The idea is to have as much contact with the case back as possible.
The reason I said dollar store is that I found mine while I was in a dollar store looking for storage ( beading craft supply) containers.
There parts baskets fit perfectly in the Ball Wide Mouth Pint 16-Ounces Mason Jars. If I had a way of adding a motor to them.......
I'm just a rank beginner but another thread suggested this to use as your work area, which I'm going to try.
I've also read to work beneath clear plastic like freezer bags.
A watchmaker in another thread suggested getting a bunch of watchmaking screws and moving them from one pile to the other as an exercise.
You need a watch case opener to open and a watch press to close it. The press kit includes the opener.
Kaisi S-130 Insulation Silicone Soldering Mat Repair Mat, Heat Resistant Silicone Work Mat 932°F with Scale Ruler and Screw Position for Soldering, CellPhone Electronics Repair, Size: 13.8 x 9.8 inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073RFB6BX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1AJMXREK4JHWM3J2PE2T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I don't think there is a way to fix it without replacing the LCD at this point, and I think you'd be hard pressed to get parts and actually accomplish the repair for less than the price of a new one.
You'll need something like this..
I find the usual hand press will not do the job for tension fitted acrylic crystal. At least for me. You need to squeeze the crystal so it has a slightly smaller diameter than it is, pop it in, release the tension, then the crystal will fit snugly.
The presser is only good for removing the acrylic crystal, not putting it back in.
The third thing I would highly recommend is something like this.
Vcedas Watch Repair Magnifier Upgraded Version Glasses Magnifying with 8 Interchangeable Lens 2.5X 4X 6X 8X 10x 15x 20x 25x Headband Magnifier for Jeweler (Black) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08R38YT9F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_BVSA4ZEA9B3HHDCHWZCZ
It’s a bit odd to start, but you can really get in their and see with lights on both sides of the eyes.
For those looking for something cheap to use for inspection, I am very happy with this for now:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Jiusion-Magnification-Endoscope-Microscope-Compatible/dp/B06WD843ZM/
The main selling points for me where the price, adjustable lighting, and long focal length (up to 25cm). So I can have it fairly far away from the part I'm inspecting. This is enough for me to remember the orientation, and placement of parts/springs as I learn to take apart a movement. I use it to take videos of interesting things in operation.
I don't remember the make but it's something like this.
The light is on when a part goes missing or when I need light from below like cannon pinnions.
For the rest it's just a plastic surface.
Xiaostar LED light pad A4, brightness dimmable, copy board light box with UBS cable for students learning drawing, animation, painting https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07KLY84NB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_i_H0DAYZT2Q4Z0506D2R7X
Update: after twice disassembling and reassembling the spring, I finally gave in and used the tool shown here: https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Tool-Closing-Mainspring-Barrel/dp/B07MC38XWW
Worked like a charm.. Going to buy this and give my fingers a rest ;)
I've been using this $40 number for probably 6 years now, for watch parts and also fishing reel parts. Never had a single problem, still cleans like a champ.
https://www.amazon.com/Magnasonic-Professional-Ultrasonic-Eyeglasses-MGUC500/dp/B007Q2M17K
You are going to get (or find someone who has) a case press. The link goes to a generic one, but it should give you a good idea of what the tool looks like.
The key is going to be to get the right base piece (so that the pressure is on the case and NOT the crystal). The top piece should just fit the back. I use fabric as padding, to avoid scratches. When replacing the back, align the caseback, apply gentle pressure, recheck alignment. Rotate about 90 degrees and repeat until the back is seated. Some watches go in place with an audible snap, others have to be slowly pushed into their final position.
Thank you, you think if I got this there would be one to cover my issue?: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011947OY0/ref=syn\_sd\_onsite\_desktop\_145?psc=1&pd\_rd\_plhdr=t&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyTk1VV1RIWkJYNFdJJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNjQ3NDczMjdRVTg5Uk9ERk5CVSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzE5NzU4UFlaQUhCTlVXRUdNJndpZ...
I've been using one of these... https://www.amazon.com/AmScope-7X-45X-Simul-Focal-Lockable-Microscope/dp/B01H4FOLVM/ref=sr_1_15?crid=2FD9AHHHTT3BA&keywords=amscope&qid=1640333905&sprefix=amscope%2Caps%2C119&sr=8-15
It's nice with a camera in the third eyepiece.
Instead of jars these work as well.
Plastic Storage Box 18 Pieces Mini Clear Empty Containers with Hinged Lids Small Transparent Organizer for Beads, Jewellery, Craft Items and Pills https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B095X11TR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_glt_fabc_AHNNX4RF65ASHJ967F9B?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Usually you can look up watch snap back tool. But you look for kits like this that have everything you need.
Thank you u/Watch-Smith
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I ordered a modern action ST36 as suggested by someone here, and hope it goes well. But always excited to learn!
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If that is a front loader, you'll need a crystal lift. I'm not familiar with that brand of watch, but it looks very nice. Hopefully you can safely get the movement out.
For organising I like to keep the screws and pieces together so I don't have to remember.
Especially when waiting on parts.
I use these.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07SPF69TM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_NZ0PE0607KHCJ0Z4XTEB
Check the wiki here about crystal replacement.
I am not familiar with Breil or their models, and I can't tell from the photo how to crystal is mounted / secured, so I can't suggest what tools are necessary to install a replacement crystal. Of some methods, $130 would be cheaper than the tools necessary.
If it is an acrylic crystal then may wish to first try sanding and polishing the scratching out. If they are deep but no cracks, use fine to very fine wet/dry sand paper, and finish with a rouge polish or PolyWatch (from Amazon.ca). If the scratches are minor to moderate, you can try just using polywatch or rouge.
If the watch is suppose to be water resistance I would expect they to be an O-ring gasket that should be replaced as well if you replace the crystal (or if the watch is 10+ years old).
> ultrasonic watch part cleaners?
Its important to know that ultrasonic cleaners are not used in the watchmaking industry for cleaning watch parts. They are used primarily for cleaning cases and bracelets.
Many home watchmakers use them with mixed results. If you choose to use one, I would leave the balance and pallet fork out during cleaning as they can be damaged by cavitational erosion as well as keeping the cleaning cycle to around 5 minutes. This would be more important the older the watch is.
Here is one that I have that works well.
Your watch is showing the classic symptoms of a short in the integrated circuit. Without the proper testing equipment it will be hard to diagnose the exact problem.
I don't believe there is a new compatible replacement for the movement available.
There are Tech sheets available in the resources if you want to try going through the movement for obvious issues.
If you see a break you can use MG Chemicals 8331D to make the repair, if soldering is not an option.
Maybe this will work. Keepers are readily available. You just need to search for one that will work for you.
Ps..the white storage container are good for most watch parts except the bridges and plates. They go straight into the cleaner. Water can get in but screws all stay in place. Keeps it all together. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08RD93N93/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_ACEA6H7FH9FRBZWPXCZQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I use an optivisor for most of my amateur service and repair. A local watchmaker that I know also uses one. Glasses will fit underneath and you get the benefit of binocular vision. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JW12VAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_61F-Fb9DBN3KT
It has removable lenses.
I also use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RDPMD3W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_z5F-FbN8NDFWT For tight magnification.
Lastly, I found an inexpensive 1960's Spencer AO binocular microscope at a local thrift store for cheap. It works great for seeing the state of rubies at high magnification. I think I spent about $120 on mag. Not sure what that is in GBP
The mechanical tools linked will work. But a Sticky Ball can turn any screwback without risk of scratching metal-on-metal. Just press the slightly tacky ball down onto the metal watch screwback (hole down for max pressure) and twist. It'll take 'em all off, and don't have to fiddle with matching up notches.
That's called a springbar. You'll need to figure out what size it is, which you can do by measuring the distance between the lugs (usually in mm). Typically (though not always), they're in multiples of 2, e.g. 18, 20, 22, etc.. Once you know that, you can order them on amazon, among other places. You can use a jeweler's screwdriver or other small tool to install it, but you might have better luck if you get a springbar tool as well. If you're worried about scratching the finish, you can put some scotch tape on the lugs. It's not difficult, but it does take a steady hand, and it's not uncommon to accidentally shoot a springbar across the room when trying to install it (you might want to make sure you get a couple, in case that does happen).
Alternatively, most any jewlery shop that sells watches or watch kiosk in a mall can replace it for you. Honestly, that's about all that I would trust a mall kiosk to do to a watch.
Good luck!
I think you have some options. I would not recommend taking it to a professional, as the cost most likely exceeds the amount it would to replace the timepiece. I found the same model on Amazon, and I would most likely do the following:
- Open the case
- remove the stem
- remove the movement
- use watch crystal glue to re-attach the numbers
- reassemble the watch
Worst case, it gets completely ruined, and you quietly order another here.
Best of Luck!
If the crystal is acrylic, you can probably buff out the scratches with some polywatch. The stuff works wonders, and it's easy to use.
I'd think that restoring color to the dial would be difficult without screwing it up. You might want to search for some dial restoration companies; if they can't do it themselves, they might at least be able to point you in the right direction. I don't imagine that it would be cheap, but I've never priced out a restoration like that.
For what it's worth:
If this is an original (1970's) I wouldn't mess with it too much. If it is the reissue (here), maybe give it a go.