What are /r/240sx's favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

Just a plug for saving up and getting quality though; cheap and good generally don't go together when it comes to car parts. Especially on the 240s. Dorki dori make nice parts but they're closed through August to catch up on their backorders.

Obligatory not an S13, but a B13. Shares all the engine stuff and electronics though.

So this is my 1991 NX2000. It originally shipped with an SR20DE engine. I swapped in a JDM SR20VE, which I turbocharge inbetween MOTs.

Wanting more spark, I decided to ditch the distributor based spark system. I already had a Nismotronic ECU, but it doens't support COPs since it has only one ignition output. The solution was clear to me, program an arduino to sequence the firing order to the 4-coils

This is now running with Honda motorcycle CBR600 dumbcoils, paired with an AEM coildriver. It could be made cheaper with smartcoils, but I wanted to try this setup. The arduino part only costs <10$, and can be made to work with practically any distributor based engine. This has probably been done before by someone, but I decided to make it open source. Here is the code for anyone interested. https://codeshare.io/5DZ0zZ

Thanks for looking!

Lots of people seem to really struggle getting all of the air bled from the coolant on the KA for some reason. Jack up the front and use one of these funnels. let the car come up to temp with the heater on defrost, full heat, full blast. might need to rev it a few times. You may still have air trapped in there. if so, with that thing about a third or half full, it'll be the high point on the system and the air will escape there. Don't fill it more than half of the funnel, the coolant will expand as it heats.

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY

especially from your statement that there is no hot air coming out in defrost.

100% you've still got air trapped in there.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08B4JQ6HT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can either revert back to a standard bulb or replace your flasher relay with one of these. I just got one a few weeks ago to fix the same issue when I installed 180sx position lights as front turn signals

This is Vvivid+ film on amazon:

VViViD+ Slate Grey Grigio Telesto...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0763VR2RB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Ordered 50ft to start. This is enough to wrap the car if you know what you’re doing. I did not and had to wrap hood 4 times.

Learning curve is huge, but after ~8 hours of failure and lots of YouTube videos it’s honestly easy now.

I ordered an additional 20ft to finish the car

Also, here's a small flickr album of random (non-pro!) pics we've taken.

Credit though goes to this guy for this shot.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/600741617188328

Here's the car, yeah I need a new daily and I want it to be fun, but not willing buy something not reliable.

nope, no trimming for intercooler. only had to cut a notch out so the jack point on my bashbar would fit on the bottom.

I used circuit sport 180sx front position lights. you’ll probably need to add some tape to the bulb to make it thicker to hold it into the actual light itself. since the rubber or plastic they use is very soft, it won’t actually lock into the back of the position lights. this will give you the fast blinkers though, I ordered https://www.amazon.com/Dewhel-Electronic-Flasher-0-02A-20A-Signal/dp/B0786CX8LP To fix the problem.

the bumper also does not have the slits or bolt hole inside the front position light spots. I took a dremel and carefully cut the slits/ hole in so I could mount the position lights in.

I also just got my circuit sport side markers in... Took 3 months. but look good. I’m not even going to wire mine up. just to fill the hole.

i am planning on ordering this https://www.amazon.com/ZENY-Outdoor-Wedding-Sidewalls-Pavilion/dp/B00ZBJEDUI/ref=sr_1_10?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1536630901&sr=1-10&keywords=party+tent and setting it up outside of my grandmas abandon house. and yes i own a 3m respirator but i still need to order good goggles. i have all winter to think about this because im going to send the paint in spring if everything goes according to plan

Go for it! I can't find the amazon listing anymore where I got mine for 25$, but 30 isn't so bad.

One of these days I'm going to paint a V8 swap like lightning mcqueen. Follow your dreams!

https://www.amazon.com/Retainer-Push-Type-Compatible-8mm-01553-09321/dp/B07GN3S9NG/ref=asc_df_B07GN3S9NG/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=316747946823&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14789371944643575809&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9007308&hvtargid=pla-616908453529&psc=1

I think it's these. Nissan plastic rivets if you don't need 100 of them.

there is also a tool that uses this concept to vibrate a diaphragm & gives a bit more detailed sound.

there are a few varations and manufacturers, this is just the first one i pulled up searching.

https://www.amazon.com/Buorsa-Stethoscope-Automotive-Diagnostic-Motorcycles/dp/B07F18V2X8

If you want to do poverty bricks this is the way

https://www.amazon.com/Suburban-Silverado-Headlights-Chrome-Headlight/dp/B079LVLLHQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?crid=ZPJ8EDI8T7UP&keywords=chevy+c%2Fk+headlights&qid=1668383914&sprefix=chevy+c%2F%2Caps%2C333&sr=8-16&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos....

https://imgur.com/a/i8Ih92u

Heres a picture of my drivers side door, dont mind the foam around the speaker but the spacer/adapter im talking about is the dark plastic piece installed with the bolts. It basicly goes over your original speaker mounting hole and fits a 6.5" then your doorpanel will go over it like normal and the speaker will be hidden behind the factory speaker grill on the doorpanel. Here are the ones i used https://www.amazon.com/1989-1994-Nissan-Speaker-Adapter-Spacer/dp/B018PYQNHQ

https://www.amazon.com/Lang-Tools-2584-15-Piece-Restorer/dp/B000XJ48V0/ref=sr_1_13?keywords=thread+chaser+set&qid=1661271838&sr=8-13

Probably dont need to "rethread it" use something like these to "chase" the threads. They dont cut out as much material as taps and will basically clean out the threads.

That hose line length looks to be for the entire run. I just use one of these to go from the hard line to slave cylinder: https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-H38119-Hydraulic-Clutch-Hose/dp/B001PYCTTA/

Also as others mentioned, you can remove the bypass loop outright. Makes it easier to bleed the system. I just generally bent the hard line into place for the hose extension. Been that way on my car for 16 years.

multimeters are amazing tools, but can be a bit overwhelming for a beginner. for simple diagnosis & troubleshooting like this a powered circuit tester like a power probe may be a better way to go

https://www.powerprobe.com/

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Probe-III-Clamshell-Automotive/dp/B00G4YUWMC

Wow, this is a old reply lol. I bought a Flex a Lite fan kit for 240sx, it came with temp controller, temp sensor and AC relay. I installed it over 10 years ago and it is still working fine. Not sure they make it anymore, but I found a old link to the exact one I bought.

https://www.amazon.com/Flex-lite-345-Engine-Cooling/dp/B001ELUN3S

Yeah I was lucky in that I still had the 240sx cylinders but not the inserts. Sucks they are so expensive but at least they are still available.

Another option though was to put plugs to ensure no water gets in and then use an electric door opening keyfob device like this : https://www.amazon.ca/InstallGear-Keyless-4-Button-Remotes-Actuators/dp/B01MDLUTPC/ref=asc_df_B01MDLUTPC/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292998683503&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4883422368444533871&hvpone=&hvptwo=&...

I would look into these, but do your research on properly applying the fittings. I use them on my car after the fuel filter and they look great and have given me zero problems with fuel delivery or leaks. My next step is to run them the length of the car. But I plan to fab a removable U channel to house em on the lowest point first cause something about flex lines makes me uneasy under the car.

$85

OEMTOOLS 24444 Coolant System Refiller Kit, 5 Adapters, Eliminate Trapped Air, Test Radiator and Heating Core Lines for Leaks, Vacuum Fill Coolant Tool, Vacuum Leak Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BW39HJS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_9JYMTFRXGZFD0MPEVYK1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Not sure but this is what the bearing is Timken 6202-2RSC3 6202-2RS Deep Groove Ball Bearing 15X35X11mm American Brand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SR3LWWG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_JE739VH2HQG9THVPFES2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

found some on amazon, 4 left in stock. Do these look correct?

You’re probably better off just converting the terminal to a multi wire style, cutting of the ends and making the connections yourself.

I use these on my WRx when it was in the stock location. Gives you some extra room for amps or other powered connections.

I used to use these to just cut all the oem connectors off, clamp them all together as one.

That terminal looks at the end of the service life, I’d figure out one of these or a similar custom solution.

I don't know if you dislike amazon but they sell them for around $150 each. That's where I got mine from...

This is the stuff I use all ball joints. I try to clean it really good first, then just a few drops of this, let it dry then move it around. Repeat to try to get it in the seals well!

I had really good results with this kit on my M3. I did it just about a year ago and applied a coat of chemical guys butter wax afterward. Even with the car staying parked outside they're still as clear as the day I did the polish.

Just bought a similar LED headlight that IMO looks way tidier than that type. Got DRLs and Turn signals.

I got this one from Amazon. Went to a bunch of different stores to look for the right size and material, but couldn't find it. Luckily this one fit pretty well just from estimates. I'll see if it keeps water away once I put the car back together. I'll keep you guys updated on that.

I have the Tomei oil block as well and an autometer gauge/sending unit. I just got one of these and ran the line over to the area near the wiper motor and got a 1.5" (OD of the sending unit) rubber insulated p clamp to mount the sending unit to the chassis.

I did have the unit mounted straight to the block for like 6 years before just because I was trying to save a few dollars not buying the extra hose when I installed it and had no issues but decided to do the remote mount when I rebuilt my engine for the sake of trying to do stuff the "right" way and fix all the things I half assed when I was still learning as i was initially building the car.

Here's one in socal from a few weeks ago.

Also you can use this. just fill out the configurations you want to see and hopefully you'll get some pictures that give you a general idea of how the spec would fit/look on the car. Can't filter by wheels, I don't think, so YMMV.

You don't have to fill out the whole form, you can just put the make, model, and year if you want to see an array of configurations across all sizes and how they fit.

Attaching your wheel and shaking/pulling it off might work but it might chew up your splines.

I’ve used this in the past: WYNNsky 46 Pieces Steering Wheel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0868DB783?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

The bolts are all probably too big for the holes on your hub (I saw your picture,) just get longer bolts of the right size and some fender washers from the hardware store. I’d ditch the hub after you get it off. The metal on that style is ridiculously weak, I had the same style.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TNL826G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_HB8PFHA7BSW7GX1G17XA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I had the same issue; this is a link to a hard rubber grommet that engages the brake light switch. OEM grommets fail after so long.

For now you can put a fusible switch on your battery and just turn it off when you aren't working on the car.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ITN38XG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

There is this one but it only supports 6.5. I couldn't find one that would work with a 6x8 This is the one I currently have on my car and it hits the door panel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L2GYMIG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_IPK-Fb2MS6BTE

Are you using a socket like these? Im a mechanic for a living and these things are super useful, especially with something like an oil pan on a 240 with a ka24. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRAQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_iDJ7Fb67VZDQP

Sure. I went with this suede material.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CUUN5MW?ref=pd_basp_dp_primary

This kit has plenty to do one dash.

You'll also need sandpaper & an orbital if you wanna make it quicker. I used Bondo Fiber Glass Jelly Resin.

Throtl on Youtube did a great how-to on this if you need more info.

https://www.amazon.com/Headlights-Headlamp-Headlight-Wrangler-6053%EF%BC%882Pcs%EF%BC%89/dp/B07BWBRDJ5

It’s called dashmat on amazon, I’ll provide the link! Really great fit.

Dashmat

You can grab them from Amazon.
These are the ones I have

this was painful to watch.

you see those two threaded holes in the rotor right by the studs?

those are there so you can remove the rotor without hammering the wheel bearings.

just pop two bolts in them & tighten, once threaded into the rotor far enough, they will bottom out on the hub face & push it right off. even the most stuck rotor will come off without much fuss.

also, please, buy a pad spreader.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GLQCKA/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_As6OCbSGW2E32

This is my go-to tool for those: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-55600-Clutch-Bushing-Remover/dp/B0002KPZ08

You may have to cut the end off to make it work right and shorten it up so it engages the pilot bearing before it bottoms out. I also usually use thread tape on it try to seal it up better.

Basically it's the pro version of the grease trick.

internet diagnosis would be vac leak,mixed up vac lines or a failure in the EGR system from the symptoms you describe.

if i was working on the car, i would start by puling a vac on all lines with the motor off. also pull a vac on the EGR diaphragm (it should hold & not leak down)

i would use tools like this.

HFS (R 2 in 1 Brake Bleeder & Vacuum Pump Test Tuner Tool Kit New HFS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NP60URE/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_xSzBCbE263HGF

GearWrench GearWrench 145 Hose Pinch Off Pliers GearWrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000O3NACS/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_JRzBCbHPR4VKX

Nilight Led Light Bar Super Slim 2PCS 7 Inch 30W Spot Driving Fog Light 3600LM Single Row Off Road led Lights for Jeep - 2 Style Mounting Brackets, 2 Years Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0197ZQLBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zUmwCbHHQAM3J

Here they are. Really not the best for actual headlights. Kinda blinding

Thanks for all the info man.

Would this Bluetooth dongle work?

BAFX Products Bluetooth Diagnostic OBDII Reader/Scanner for Android Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.iopCb3H50VPD

If time runs out for you, try this:

Most cars have what's called a "2 Fault Logic" when it comes to illuminating the CEL. This means that after clearing your codes, the CEL won't come back on until after the second engine start cycle no matter what. You can use this to your advantage during testing season.

You'll need an OBD scanner, preferably one that you can monitor the live status of your sensors like Torque.

Here's what you're looking for in Torque...

How to:

Start your engine normally, then with the engine running, clear the codes to make the CEL turn off,
Without turning off the engine ride around until all the items on the status screen there say 'Complete',
Go get your car tested. (do not turn your engine off until after you get finished with testing. Don't worry if the emissions guy turns it off - remember, you have two start cycles before the fault trips)

In some states older cars can have a certain number of failed items. Shoot this question to the emissions guy while you're waiting. It's good to know for later, just in case.

Edited because I'm an idiot... :)

Actually now that you mention the photo, would one of these work and maybe just record a video for him?

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Muffler-Silencer-Round-Mufflers/dp/B00CP8K43S

I only needed to use bolt extractors once. It was the coil pack bolt on an SR20 valve cover. It was probably a much easier extraction than what you're dealing with. I used an Easy Out kit.

For your situation, I'd try something like this.

Check YouTube for tutorials. Start small. Use a center punch. Use penetrating fluid.

Why? Unless you have an ECU that is running dual maps or something that is switching fuel maps while you're changing that, all you're going to do is blow something up eventually

Running Lean is not fun when you melt pistons

burning out bushings weakens the metal.

while burning or cutting them out may be easier, a press is the "correct" way

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-7068-Control-Bushing-Service/dp/B0002SRHJ2/ref=sr_1_cc_3?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1512052821&sr=1-3-catcorr&keywords=otc+bushing+press

Amazon. These are 3" but in the customers also bought section there was a set of 7" ones for like $10.

Yes it was a tinted film. found the link. My buddy got it for me so I am not sure if this is exact but he told me he found it on amazon. And this was the dimensions. https://www.amazon.com/AUMO-mate-Adhesive-Chameleon-Headlights-Sticker/dp/B00UBPTZU0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483654639&sr=8-1&keywords=chameleon+film

Fix those yellow headlights mate

edited to add that your s14 is clean as fuck

here and here

What are /r/240sx's favorite Products & Services? From 3.5 billion Reddit comments

The most popular Products mentioned in /r/240sx:

The most popular Services mentioned in /r/240sx:

Facebook Marketplace

Flickr

Dropbox

FileDropper.com

TinyPic

Codeshare

OfferUp

ConsumerReports.org

Instagram

TinyURL

RetailMenot

The most popular Android Apps mentioned in /r/240sx:

Torque Lite (OBD2 & Car)

The most popular reviews in /r/240sx:

What are /r/240sx's favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments