What are
/r/ATV's
favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/ATV:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/ATV:
Facebook Marketplace
The Motley Fool
TinyURL
The most popular reviews in /r/ATV:
I use Geo Tracker every time I go out on a trip. I have a dedicated 'wheeler phone', my old LG G3, and permanent mounts on my sxs, wheeler, and sled so I can swap it accordingly. I use it for tracking trips and music with Spotify. All I have to do is open GeoTracker, hit record when I leave, and never touch it again until I get home and hit stop. It records my route, and gives lots of stats like top/avg speed, total time/total moving time, elevation, etc. I can then share each trip to my main phone via Bluetooth. Excellent app and would do exactly what you're looking for. I love looking back on my trips, especially if I've been somewhere new.
Get a bump stop on your cable so you don't put as much stress on the cable or winch and it keeps your hook from flopping around.
Here is a cheap one from Amazon.
But a lot of the hate Polaris gets is brought on by Polaris. Doesn't seem Polaris thoroughly tests/vets their design and many feel like Polaris is using them, the customer, to test out Polaris machines. Add to that the hundreds of thousands of vehicles on recalls right now for Polaris, the picture of why Polaris gets a lot of hate becomes much clearer. And that doesn't even go into there have been some who've died in fires because of faulty Polaris design. This link precedes all of the recalls from 2017 - https://www.fool.com/investing/2017/02/03/will-2017-be-polaris-industries-incs-best-year-yet.aspx
Polaris really needs to get their crap together because they do have innovative features and design... but CLEARLY suck at longevity and safety.
I guess you'll looking for a louder exhaust? Just replace your muffler with something like this. If you're looking for power gains - get another atv.
I always do one on each side of the handlebars, and one attached to the back of the frame on the dirtbike... do you have any d-rings or anything to strap them to?
https://www.amazon.com/SPEP-com-Pack-Ring-Steel-Tie-Downs/dp/B07H949WCL/
I carry a patch kit and a co2 inflator. I think 2-3 strip patches could fill a 1/4” hole.
MadDog GearATV/UTV Tire Repair and Inflation Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006JMKGW0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_32I6FbWE46K6P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I dreamed this up after I had replaced the angle sensor & shift motor, then realized it was an intermittent problem with the ESP module. I installed this last night on a 2001 450 foreman. The relays used can be ordered from Amazon for $9.87 relay kit
Soft shackles. (Something lika-this: https://www.amazon.com/Kohree-Synthetic-Breaking-Strength-Recovery/dp/B081RBCP84)
Assuming your husband or someone he rides with has a tendency to get stuck in every hole they can find.
I switched to these and it's saved me sooooo much time yanking my buddies out of mudholes.
I agree with Kolpins but these are the ones you want. We all use them for both big and small game rifles in Colorado. They still work fine in the ice and snow as well as the heat and mud! Kolpin Gun mounts
they have hooks that hook onto collars/harnesses that loop around the machine/car's head rest. you can easily loop it around just about anything else as well. roll bar, seat belt, etc.
i highly suggest combining it with a harness as opposed to a collar though.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B078G6MKTN/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_4Zh.Fb21DRN71
my golden rides with me in my rzr. he absolutely loves it. i dont actually have him teathered as im not doing anywhere close to those speeds with him in there. just 5-10mph saunters around the property.
I put these on my 550 but I went up to 26” tires. This link to amazon is the stock size you have on there now. Sliverbacks are a nice mud tire but $160-200 a piece. For the riding you sound like you want to do these tires in the link will be perfect. Also for $240 for all four it’s not bad. My girlfriend and my daughter ride the 550 now and go everywhere I go with my mud tires on my 1000 XP.
Set of 4 New WANDA ATV/UTV Tires 25x8-12 Front & 25x10-12 Rear /6PR P350 - 10163/10165 … https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KWTF2LG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Ml.ZAb1RRFC6Q
I got the Midland gxt camo kit came with everything, got them on amazon. Midland GXT1000VP4 36-Mile 50-Channel FRS/GMRS Two-Way Radio (Pair) (Black/Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001WMFYH4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gX-gBbHQ0MXFA
Looks like some sort of heated hand grips. Here is a Amazon link I found.
they are vent lines. the only line carrying gas is the one from your gas tank to the carb from there the carb does all the work. theres either 2 or 3 lines on the carb that just vent. also if the gas is turned on and you put the atv on the back bar it allows the gas to run out and onto the ground. you can look at this one on amazon and see the lines on it
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MDQP16R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can pick up a tire repair kit. It is a "must have" in my pack and probably the most used. Look for kits that will have the 12V pump and the plugs with tools. I carry the Slime pump kit and buy plugs to throw in there too. This kit on Amazon has it all together.
Not sure if this is the right one, but this is what I'm talking about.
If you can't find ethanol free fuel. You can buy this Star Tron treatment at Walmart. It's really good stuff. I've used it and sold it for about 10 years. It definitely works. I'm not affiliated with this link. Just showing an example.
Get one of these,
Or maybe one of these would be more fitting,
Not sure if I’m understanding the issue completely, but this is what I use. I pin the tow bar to the hole on the edge when towing my Otter sled for ice fishing.
No, what he linked is the whole kit. Check the contents description. Here's one on amazon. No idea how they sell them so cheap. I've installed a couple for people that wanted to supply their own parts and they actually seem to work ok.
You know the item you linked is only a gasket kit for $187, right?
You're looking a lot closer to $800 for the actual 434cc kit
And yes, you'll need an aftermarket exhaust, rejet the carburator (or switch to an FCR and rejet that), probably can get away with just removing the airbox lid to allow a little more air in.
​
Kinda a lot of work and money to put into a stock z400, would likely be cheaper to sell and buy a 450cc quad. It'll handle better too.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XK0CRMQ
I have a pair of these I've been using almost daily for ~3* years in a commercial setting. They are the some of the best aluminum ramps I've found. More than enough capacity for any ATV. And most side by sides. The only time I see them strain at all is loading diesel Kubotas, and that is nearly twice their rated capacity. They are also long so it makes loading into tall trucks easier. They don't fold, so that's a little inconvenient, but the folding latch is usually the weak point.
*5 years if you count the first set that I forgot outside and someone liberated.
One more thing. Make sure you put the correct amount (cc's) in the crankcase. It should be stamped on the side of the case how much goes in there. Sometimes it will say cc's sometimes it will say ml's. They are both the same thing. 1cc=1ml> if you don't already have one buy yourself a Ratio Rite cup. It has cc's oz's etc.. marked on it. You can also use this to mix your gas.
If you can't find Bel Ray you can use Maxima. It's also a pretty good oil.
I'm guessing the secondary spot is meant for a tool kit or something. Unless you're running a winch or some other electronics, I wouldn't bother with a secondary battery.
As for dimensions, that's not the focus as much. Obviously it needs to fit in the spot but you need to get the proper cranking amps, similar to car batteries. A battery that physically fits but doesn't have enough cranking amps to turn over the engine is useless.
Yeah, that's an old style mechanical switch on the handlebars.
No contactor needed for this.
However I don't think you can buy these anymore, so you'll have to convert to a low voltage switch and a contactor.
All four of these wires will go to the contactor. From the contactor, you'll have two small wires running to a new handlebar switch.
You can buy a kit with all this stuff, something like this one
What you are planning will be very inefficient: ATV stator creates AC power --> ATV regulator/inverter converts to DC and stores in battery --> Aftermarket inverter converts DC to AC --> LED light plugs into AC but then converts to DC to run.
All of that conversion requires power by itself, thus leaving you a final outcome to run DC that ultimately powers your LED lights anyway. You'll be wasting a lot of amps to do that. Just purchase a LED camp light that hooks directly to DC power. Assuming your Jackery has a direct DC connection? Here is an example for a light with direct DC connections, far more efficient than what you're planning.
https://www.amazon.com/JUFENGRKS-Telescopic-Standing-Suitable-Travelling/dp/B094JBFSQB
Yeah you *should* be able to swap the entire units with Teryx LED headlights. Did that with mine and it's a huge improvement.
I use these for my King Quad. I don't know what type of bulb you need for your specific machine but I am extremely with this brand of light.
I just put a pair of these on my King Quad. textThey are plug and play, don't require any extra wiring and I'm extremely happy with them compared to my old beige colored halogens.
Not sure on where the lights are positioned at?
For sliders, I just used the cheap $90 Chinese special ones off Amazon, and they've been fine. Can stand on them to reach up to the roof if needed as well.
If you're legitimately doing only slow yard work, a simple top skid-lid should be pretty effective, paired with snug sunglasses or goggles to keep crap out of your eyes. If you're going to go real speeds, like 10-15+ mph, then I'd go with a full face one when riding. Easy to take off while you're working and just throw back on when moving.
I like the CastleX dual sport ones since they have a built in sun visor, breathe pretty well, and can swap out the modular face shields for heated ones in the winter to keep them defogged.
I use something like this when testing DC.
the airtags though alert you if it finds an unknown tag through your iphone. automatic fail imho. 2 friends have them on their quads and each time they came by for me to service them it found them.
i found this thing on amazon and can you get a small waterproof case with an extended battery. https://www.amazon.com/Tracki-Magnetic-Required-Worldwide-Motorcycles/dp/B07N4DHFZM/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=gps+tracker&link_code=qs&qid=1657846809&sourceid=Mozilla-search&sr=8-5
id pay money for an airtag that didnt alert other people of its presence.
ThT looks like a factory connector not a winch connector.
Regardless the green wire is your power. Replace both male and female ends with a new connector and bobs your uncle bud
Not sure your budget on ramps but these are what I use. ramps
If you can somehow Mount this it should be great: I hope this helps!! https://www.amazon.com/LEMIL-Magnetic-Cigarette-Lighter-Harness/dp/B09L179Q6T/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=Led+Light+for+Car+Lighter+Plug&qid=1654212964&sr=8-3
I have a silver framed raptor 660 and this was pretty damn close. Close enough:
I used that front JRL 1 420 12T 17mm Front Engine Sprocket For 125 140 150 160cc Lifan Loncin Dirt Bike https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MS4W5L7/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_SF9X7QJ0Y04APDACY1PC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And this rear. JT Sprockets JTR801.42 42T Steel Rear Sprocket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AVU1DO/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_5QFT6E6MZ4GHX4JJMQVE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
She has a tao tao b1 boulder, might fit yours.
I used truck box mounting bolts on my 21 grizzly. Worked perfectly.
Like this
JGR Pickup Truck Tool Box Tie Downs Aluminum J Hook Crossover 4 Pack, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SSRVM9P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Y4BAQ11F2M90R0TF8BDB
I replaced my incandescent lights on my 2015 Kawasaki Brute with LEDs from Amazon and have been super happy with them. Makes a world of difference.
The first ones, 120W is really 60W Hi beam and 60W Low beam. Even that seems far fetched.
I'm assuming the 40W are 20W High / 20W Low.
I don't know if the cooling fins are just a gimmick or what.
These are 40 watt but don't have cooling fins.
I see you're using Amazon Canada, I'm in Canada too.
LED bulbs are not going to be 50-80 watts no matter what socket type they show, HS1 or H4.
They are usually 25 watts or less. Some show more but that usually a lie. They run much cooler.
Here is an example on Amazon. I've never used these, it's just an example.
I tried one of those when the stock air box busted on one of my machines. It really restricted the air flow and ran like crap. I had better luck with a washable double foam filter like this: WEIYINGSI Air Filter 45mm Dual Layer Sponge Foam Cleaner 125 140 150cc CRF KLX Bike https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010UQLUZW/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_W4QTCHZAYB3WZGS2X9P9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
K&N on Amazon. YA-3504 $83.99
UNI from FortNine NU-3258ST $27.99
Amazon, any online or local motorcycle parts store.
You can get the type that push in to the bar ends but the rounds dirtbike type would look better.
After market rear cargo seat/storage box. Just crank up your rear suspension pre-load and remember on steep stuff it's shorter than 2-up quads. And of course, your passenger can't easily shift weight to control it like the rider!
Use a hot stapler. It's cheap and doesn't look like shit.
Try this it will change your life
Sunbeam Heated Mattress Pad | Quilted, 10 Heat Settings SleekSet , White, Twin - MSU3KTS-P000-12A00 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BF2UHC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_MEFERHWFR0CA2T60KGMC?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Cushion will just be your stock seat, the manufacturer accessories won't be designed as seats because full size 2-up quads are safer for lots of riding with a second adult. Longer wheelbase, stiffer rear suspension, solid hand grips, and so on.
You can go aftermarket though, and if the rear passenger isn't too big and you're not riding crazy should be completely fine. Those will have cushions and grips for riding comfort.
That quad should be running a Mikuni VM24 carb, so a standard jet kit from Amazon should work just fine… as said before, swap it out and see what runs best. Stock pilot jet appears to be a 22.5, and stock main is somewhere between a 110 and a 120.
Nice! These are great bikes! I picked up the same but 2021 w/ Camo. It took a while to find one at the time too. Get a winch. I also picked up a Black Boar Rear Storage Box which has turned out to be very useful. Don't forget to run your battery tender cable to your battery before you put it on :)
Regular ski glides are slick and an ATV would be slipping but these looks like they will allow a snowmobile to glide up but also allow an ATV to grip and climb up.
Combining this with holes like you suggested seems to be a good route.
in every instance ive seen, the ski glides/clamp bars are removable so you can haul things without them in the way. if they arent, its difficult to get the atv forward enough to give yourself enough tongue weight.
im personally not the biggest fan of tilt trailers just because they add weight and are less solid compared to non tilt.
but adding tie downs to this should be super easy. nothing a drill bit a few nuts and bolts, and a handful of these cant fix.
i dont own sleds, but my friends have them and they use atv trailers with ramps for their sleds. zero issues with taking them up and down ramps worst case, you find a small slope or snow bank to back up to so the ramps arent as steep.
but there should be no issues with using the tilt trailers for the atv either, assuming that ski guide is removable.
Magneto Flywheel Puller 24mm&27mm Scooter ATV Repair Tool for GY6 50CC 125CC 150CC https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0872CNV5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_3GX60WKMJ47C5SERJPZ6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Most likely this would work but confirm size and threads of your flywheel first
I’m not sure about dunes, but the IRS is phenomenal in the woods. The rear side is a carrier housing with bearings and races so they lock in the channels on each side.
Radiator Brush
Limited-time deal: Vanitek 26-Inch Long Flexible Dryer Vent Cleaner & Refrigerator Condenser Coil Brush Auger Lint Remover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0778RFGQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_dl_0FKSEDJ9VYB8MXVQMCQD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Radiator Comb
Fcr6 Fin Comb Set Plastic Colored AC Radiator Fin Comb Straightener Condenser Coil Fin Comb for Straighten Evaporator Condenser Coils, 6 Fin Combs on a Ring Handle 12 Different Fin Spacing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097MTF1B2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NF58V5ANQ3D3C44NYPQA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Secondary? You mean this?
If so yea I've made sure it's in the run position
I just changed the headlights to LED. The brand is Beamtech. They are available on Amazon.
BEAMTECH H11/H8/H9+9005/HB3 LED Bulb, S1 Series 8000LM 50W 6500K Extremely Bright CSP Chips Conversion Kit Combo All In One Plug N Play Halogen Replacement https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089SQVZD1/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_ST8QB4H65K8YW2TGQK4D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Don't give up. They're super strong when built right. You can get a decent spark tester anywhere. I would suggest an inline tester and an adapter to clamp to a ground so you can check both with and without the spark plug to see if your plugs are bad or if it's just the ignition part alone.
Lisle 20610 Inline Spark Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002STSC6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_724WE23EZQY2N3Z8WY6Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is basically what I use. It has a red indicator when the spark is firing and you can tell the brightness to see how strong your spark actually is.
It's mounted in front of the rad, just zip tied to the guard until I take it all apart and have a proper bracket machined. Nothing more permanent than a temporary fix. Permanence is also not your friend until you've got all the fittings squared away and have thoroughly checked for leaks before, during, and after various rides and conditions.
With regard to reaching operating temp, I always give it a 3ish minute idle warmup while I look for leaks and check coolant and stuff, Then I baby it on the first few miles. Certainly never go wide open until it's reached operating temps, oil cooler or not. That said, I'm gulf south where my average ambient temp is 95F. If it's of significant concern to you and you operate somewhere with harsh winters, get something like this. The "thermostatic" type of adapter have a temperature sensitive bypass valve that doesn't open/close and route oil into the cooler until the oil is at whatever temp the valve is set to. This particular one opens/closes at 185F.
It's already on Android, although needs more work: https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.aspect.trailz hence why we are reaching out to the community for advice and work to improve the maps.
Could I just buy something like this and clean the inside really good? I'm trying to save as much money as possible
Yes using it to lift the kayak and as an anchor winch here is my post in r/kayakfishing Kayak Electric Anchor Winch
I am looking for a light weight, water proof winch for the dual purpose of serving as an anchor winch while also having the pull capacity to pull my 150+ lb kayak (fully rigged) up a shore ramp at about a 45 degree angle. The unit will be attached to the bow of my old town predator pdl using this neat bow mount i found online. ( https://www.oneobjectivebf.com/store/p106/oneobjectivebowmount.html#/ ) After looking at all the small anchor winches from minnkota and trac outdoors i was unable to find/ determine if there is a pre-built unit capable of pulling the weight of my kayak. I ended up purchasing this winch from amazon because it was the lightest (9 lbs), waterproof, synthetic rope winch i could find ( https://www.amazon.com/TYT-Synthetic-Electric-Waterproof-Portable/dp/B08PZFBLCH ) but i didn’t think about the size of battery i would need to power it. I don’t know a whole lot about electronics. Has anybody done this before? Does anybody know of a small powerful battery i could use to power this? Do the pre-built anchor winches have a higher pull capacity than I’m seeing?
You could call around, or order online. If you don't know what's in it now, you shouldn't just tip it off with whatever you can find. You should do a full oil change. Mixing brands is bad.
Personally, when I had a Yamaha blaster, I always used Yamalube and it never failed me. This is what you'd need. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008QS9NEW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_FNX0AF6QT8YSZEBEGN2P?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
these carbs are real easy to clean yourself as long as you have a little bit of mechanical inclination, to me that means you know not to tighten the crap out of all the screws and bolts.
look at a few tutorials, be careful not to bend the float bowl spring thing (it will be easier to put back together), and keep note of the screw settings. if you mess these steps up its ok you can find the factory settings online and something everyone should be aware of any how.
take lots of pictures and notes. use some carb cleaner and maybe let the parts sit in simple green over night if its really bad. you should be able to see light through all the jets thats how you know they are clean.
i would suggest you buy the kit below to make life easier. carb maintenance is something that will always come up. might as well learn now.
It should be tightened to 72 ft lbs on my yfz 450, and probably the same on raptors, since both have almost the same rear end.
But the problems start when you buy a cheap axle bearing carrier, like that one. There is a steel tube between two bearings, and it's too short on those cheap things. So when you start to tighten the axle nut, you're applying a side load on bearings, which is very bad for regular ball bearings and you'll notice that wheels are hard to turn when you tighten the axle nut.
That is what happened to me, and i bet that you have the same exact problem. Solution - get it somewhat tight but not too much, and ride until bearings fall apart, then get good quality parts.
Screw extractor set that has already been mentioned would work, but a pair of vampliers would work for that too.
Get a blowtorch and heat it, should help. If not - press is your best option to minimize possibility of damage. I'd probably try a gear puller so that you won't risk bending you wheel hub. I understand that you don't have any of those tools, but that's the reality of diy repair - you have to spend money on tools.
I got a chargeable portable air pump off Amazon that does low pressure as well as high pressure. I think it only goes down to 3 or 4 psi. It's about the size of a monster energy drink can and you charge it up before a ride (keeps charge a while). It has a digital screen on it that you just set your desired pressure to and turn it on. It auto shuts off when it reaches that pressure.
Found it. It's currently unavailable but there may be others like it that won't take a month to ship out.
edit: I paid $19.99 for it.
OP get yourself a set of tailgate bars ex:
DG Manufacturing EX Tailgate Support Bar Ford F150 2015 - Present https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VLC75XK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_1C2KR75SPPG95XHQC9TP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I use them with my 6.5 XLT and they work like a champ.
The DS250 does not use an ECU. Uses a CDI, this is what you need, not saying buy this one, but it should let you find what you need. https://www.amazon.com/IGNITION-MODULE-Can-Am-DS250-2007-2019/dp/B085N6FY8L
If you prefer to run it with the tongue down, just go find yourself a cheap 2" drop down hitch for the ATV and don't put a hitch ball on it or remove the hitch ball. Unhook the trailer and put a piece of wood under the trailer tongue to the height you want, measure the difference up to the ATV hitch receiver and find a drop about the same. Should work out just fine or just leave it the way it is.
I actually hate those pin style connections and redid my lawn tractor trailer by adding one of these: amazon.com/gp/product/B07XP1RXWL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also had to add a 2" hitch ball to my lawn tractor but now the trailer can easily be used on my ATV or lawn tractor while going over non-level, mountainous terrain.
Ideally you'd want both ATVs at the front, if you can't manage that because of the width then I'd put one ATV and the dirtbike up front.
As for tying them down I'd add a front wheel holder for the dirtbike. Something like this but has an easily removable top.
After that its just ratchet straps for the ATVs in whatever fashion that you are comfortable with.
Ultra-Tow 4ft. x 8ft. Folding Aluminum Utility Trailer Kit - 1170-Lb. Load Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XZ2ZCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_4EXD42V7SGG90QEYGT5E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Would something like this be good for a raptor? Or do I need something with a wooden floor and high sides?
Should be some same size options for replacement.
If you're just puttering around the property and don't need anything crazy, could size up an inch to get a hair more clearance.
I wouldn't go wild on much larger tires even if you can fit several sizes larger without rubbing. That's an older quad, and you probably don't want to put significant strain on axles and joints above what it was built for unless you don't mind possibly replacing parts.
If it's in your budget, I'd go ahead and replace all 4 tires now unless the previous set was nearly new and you just happens to rupture one. Gives it a more symmetrical ride that way rather than mix and matching random tires of varying age and tread.
I had one of those folding 4x8 trailers. It fit my ATV (Polaris 500) but didn't have much spare room. I put 3/4" pressure treated plywood down and used one of these to help keep it tied down:
If I remember correctly it had a capacity of 1100 pounds. Subtract the plywood, a spare tire, and the ATV and there was probably another 300 pounds it could technically handle
Very important. It’s worth the 2 minutes to strap the ramp to the truck. Like 1/3 up from the ground to the hitch safety chain hook.
Otherwise when you hot the gas on the ramp it will kick out from under you.
I have the rear wheels on the tailgate every time since I have a short bed.
I use this one.
Yutrax 78-inch Tri-Fold XL Aluminum Truck, UTV/ATV Loading Ramps - 1750lb Capacity , silver -TX104
Pretty sure they are 881's. People replace stock with LED all the time. Maybe pull one to see what it is before ordering. Might be H11's. If they are then get beamtech H11's off Amazon.
Just buy the pigtail harness and zip tie it to the frame somewhere: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0069-6-Terminal-Disconnect/dp/B000NCOKZQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=PC217TSQD577&dchild=1&keywords=battery+tender+pigtail&qid=1615828872&sprefix=battery+tender+pigtai%2Caps%2C235&sr=8-3
Not much but just get any 0w-40, should be readily available. Worst case I found this on amazon and there's lots more
the best product honestly is aerospace 303 https://www.amazon.com/303-30313-CSR-Protectant-Plastic-Fiberglass/dp/B00KN0UOEE
It works on plastic, vinyl, leather, etc. I use it on the quad and also use it on my vehicles black textured components.
I know your title indicates radiator relocation but these also work. A little pricy, but you could always make one too - Radiator Genie - Water & Air Cleaning Wands for High Efficiency Cooling Systems and Radiators
Get a pair of these. They're very bulky, but they're popular for ice fishing, especially for ATVs and snowmobiles on the frozen lakes. I wear a pair of insulated mechanics gloves under mine and my hands stay toasty. They completely stop the wind and are totally waterproof.
Look into some handlebar mitts.
They are the best thing I’ve found for keeping hands warm in cold weather.
kemimoto ATV Gloves Waterproof，Touch-Friendly Bag/Front Wind-Breaking Guard Motorcycle Gloves Snowmobile Handlebar Mitts Compatible with Sportsman Scrambler FourTrax Grizzly Snowmobile Bicycle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S93KHDJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Aq.MFb4VC7RVH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I bought new tires on amazon that were very nice and cheap for my polaris ranger. Also bought a tire changing machine for $60 on amazon. did it myself.
Goplus Manual Portable Hand Tire Changer
Well I sent you a link for the tires....... as far as the hand operated tire changer I'm not 100% sure. If you want to send me some dimensions on the inside rim ....I would take some measurements and take some pictures of my tire changer and send them back. Look up the tire changer. description from Amazon... https://www.amazon.com/Goplus-Portable-Changer-Breaker-Mounting/dp/B017JXBWZ2?ref_=Oct_CAMWishedC_15709031_0&pf_rd_r=83PM8GYB1NR5Z0D5ZW61&pf_rd_p=b004018f-b59f-5425-9840-31e763f9603d&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-5&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_...
With regards to the wear bar on the plow, I mistakenly wrote HDPE when it should have been UHMW (ultra high molecular weight) plastic. It is very strong and tough.
For my use, the UHMW wear bar replaces the steel wear bar. UHMW is a very hard plastic and the edge does not do any damage (no scrapes, gouges, nothing) to either pavement or concrete, I have both pavement and concrete on my long driveway in the mountains. Some actually report that UHMW lasts longer than a steel wear bar. Nice benefit is it is a lot quieter than a steel wear bar too. Here is the one I buy even though the holes don't match, I just drill new holes --> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQQRB4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Nah I just replaced that, I bought these(2X H6 Super White 6000K LED Bulbs... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T655CF6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) which draw way to much I’m assuming. I just bent an A arm tho so I’m gonna have to but off the lights till I have money again.
So that thing has 40 bulbs, are they 3W bulbs? If so, you're adding 10 amps worth of draw.
This will be your best bet, the only difference is instead of wiring in the included switch, you'll wire the switched wires to the headlight circuit.
If you don't want to buy the kit, go ahead and buy a relay and harness pack, then wire the black wire to ground, yellow to the positive wire on light bar, the white wire to the headlight positive circuit (your switch), then the blue wire with an inline fuse of at least 15 amps direct to the battery. To handle that amount of power, I'd recommend using 14 gauge wire, I tend to go a little heavier on wire than most, but I like the safety factor.
edit: also make sure you heatshrink the connections for weather protection, and use either good butt connectors or solder the connections.
Something I didn't mention was a good GPS. I have a Garmin Montana but a couple of years ago a guy came up with Lifetime Trailmaps for tablets. He does a great job marking trails. User data can be used to update the maps as well.
I used a cheap Amazon product twice. I have destroyed both. They are not sealed motors and they suck up all the dust from the trails and will eventually kill the motor. I have the Worxs Hydroshot 40V and it does work well but I don't take it on the trail with me.
yeah, thats not going to do you much good. i personally can use the foot gauge pretty well, but if you are having issues, an accurate gauge is worthwhile to have. i use my gauge in the winter time to make sure im low as i can get while still holding a bead.
this is what i have. but anything that lets you read down to the half lb down to 2 or 3lbs is good. forget about the ones that have the little stick that shoots out the end(pencil gauge).
My brother has a $22 zionor clear pair from amazon and he rides with his glasses on. Can’t guarantee it’ll work for you but here is the link
Zionor Lagopus Ski Snowboard... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077GR1Z2T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share