What are
/r/AnalogueInc's
favorite Products & Services?
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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/AnalogueInc:
![iFi iPower - Low Noise DC Power Supply with International Travel Adapters - Upgrade Your Audio/Video/Electronics [ 12V / 1.8A ]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41QCrVK1oXL._SL500_.jpg)
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/AnalogueInc:
SD Card Formatter
GB Studio
Rufus
The most popular VPNs mentioned in /r/AnalogueInc:
The most popular reviews in /r/AnalogueInc:
Haven't heard about hardware kits, but I have been looking at GB Studio and the community, and man, what a joy that is.
Some people are way too good at this.
I'm excited for the new games that will be launched for the Pocket!
I just picked up this half size adapter. It fits almost too perfectly flush. It’s a pain to removed but it is flush.
Adafruit Black Shortening microSD... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OKJFTNA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
GB Studio 2 is from a different company. It's not Analogue that makes it. If you want to make games without programming, you can do that now and not have to wait. I believe you can load your game up on a flash cart or through an emulator.
Have you tried formatting the SD card with this tool?
https://www.sdcard.org/downloads/formatter/
I had the same problem and using that tool to format the card worked for me. Turns out I had used my cards for other devices, and just formatting them in Windows didn’t work for the FXPak Pro.
I've used this services in the past and I haven't had any issues. For small printed pieces I prefer to sand using an small jewelry file (like these https://www.amazon.com/Needle-Files-Filing-Jewelry-Making/dp/B000RB5OOE )
I have this case that I got for some computer stuff and I think it will fit a super NT along with various accouterments. My console is supposed to arrive Friday, I’ll probably make a post after I check.
Is this the retro reciever that you are talking about?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DJB43R2
I have two 8bitdo M30 2.4ghz controllers. I'm assuming if I want to use any controllers, they have to be bluetooth and not 2.4ghz?
I picked up an NT Mini this morning. I know it comes with 1 controller, but I'm hoping to pick up a second.
I think it's the 8Bitdo N30 2.4G Wireless Gamepad that I'm looking for, however, it doesn't look like it's in stock... what other options do I have?
u/BigPep2-43 asks
> I am looking for a travel case to hold my mega sg, two controllers, four cartridges, power cable, and an HDMI cable. Any suggestions on which case might hold all of this?
I don't there's anything bespoke for the Mega Sg in that department. I personally store my excess cables, controllers and cartridge adapters in these food storage containers. Perhaps a larger variant of this could fit the bill? Alternatively, something like a DSLR camera bag could be the right size and offer padded protection for your system.
Going by the product page on Strictly Limited's site, the PCB is made by DragonBox. Both the DragonBox online store and the OpenPandora page have an "OpenPandora GmbH" copyright, so it seems they are one in the same.
"SuperDragonES" is likely just the name of their SNES PCB. I'm guessing their board relatively complex in order to support multiple configurations instead of having the multiple PCB variations you see in original SNES games.
That small component above pin 58 on the edge connector might be a voltage regulator. Pin 58 is 5v on that side of the board. I'm not sure what the "JAHSPS" marking on the top means, and Google isn't helping. The component looks similar to this though.
FYI that model is intended for the SNES / MegaDrive mini consoles. This is the model that uses Sega Genesis controller ports for its wireless receivers.
It must be noted that the controller button mapping for the genesis core is mirrored ever since the last official firmware update from analogue. It needs to be fixed from the core creator.
Another vote for Anker products here. I have one of these for powering my gaming stuff that uses USB Micro/Mini plugs (Super NT, Mega SG, RetroTINK, mini consoles, other 5V or less stuff) and I actually own two or three of these now (one or two of them might be the older version). I use the second one as a charger for my phone, laptops, Kindle, Switch, controllers, and whatever else and I carry one with me when I travel since it can charge just about everything.
I am not an expert, and I could be doing it wrong, but I use a few of these 10 port chargers for a lot of things, to include powering the Analogue devices in my rack:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YRYS4T4/
Since only one device is turned on at a time, I am very confident it does just fine. I cannot comment if it is good for having multiple (or all) ports running at the same time.
I don't think it would be wise to power 10+ devices off of a single charger (as others have said you need a multi-device charger not a hub, most hubs don't provide power when disconnected from a host device). I would recommend something like this Anker 6 port one. It provides 60W total which is a good watt to port ratio and it would be cheaper to get 2 of them than any of the 10 port models I have seen from brands that I would actually trust (there are cheaper no name brand ones with 10 ports, but they have lower watts per port). I think this is the same one I told my wife to get for iPad charging in her classroom and they worked good for her and I have been planning to get one to power my Super NT, Mega SG, MiSTer, and RetroTINK.
One thing you might want to consider is if you have a lot of those FPGA consoles, like I do, hooking it up to one USB power hub like this.
I'd be interested to hear! SNES runs slightly faster than 60hz (like 60.08) and your DAC might expect that. The Super NT has Fully Buffered mode which runs at that original off-spec 60.08 refresh rate, whilst the other modes downclock to 60hz for the benefit of modern displays which expect a 60hz signal
According to the analogue support site - https://www.analogue.co/support/resource/analog-video-cables
“Connecting pins 4 and 5 together will put the system into composite/s-video mode.”
​
The one I got directly from monoprice didn’t do that, but this identical one from amazon did - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001I25ZWM/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you're on the custom firmware, there is a bug that causes the FDS to act up as it transfers data to the Noir. You can solve this by:
1) Heading to "Analog Output" and setting the Dejitter option.
2) Playing in "Fully Buffered" or "Single Buffer" mode.
Doing both should clear up that issue for you! Sorry for the slow response! Give it a go!
TCL 32-inch 1080p Roku Smart LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F981R8M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Clocks in at only 6.5ms input lag, which is outstanding. Some of the best gaming monitors only have 5ms. Most TV’s will have around 50+
It’s only 32” and 1080 (same resolution as the Super NT), which actually works perfectly for my game room. Really don’t need a giant 55”+ tv for these.
Thanks to you it now all makes sense.
I did what @xukkorz suggested and thought it was the origin of the issue but really it's the in-game hook option in the SD2SNES menu.
Here is the trick which made me go crazy : in game hook option makes the HV Timer test fail RANDOMLY. Sometimes it passes the test even when it's on.
I had messed around with this option because I had an input issue with Hagane (which came from my uIGR mod on my SNES).
When I Burn-in tested my Super NT, in game hook was still on and the test failed. When I turned on the buffered video it RANDOMLY passed and I thought I was done. To sum it up:
In game hook on : random fail
In game hook off: 100% pass
Buffered video isn't related.
Retrobit adds a 2.4g usb adapter to the pads, so you can use them with your computer:
https://www.amazon.com/Retro-Bit-Wireless-Controller-8-Button-Original/dp/B07WW5ZQ4Q?ref_=ast_sto_dp
There is also a bluetooth version, but it definitely has a bit more lag than 2.4g:
Oh that's frustrating. I couldn't say if that's the same issue or how to fix it. :\
The only thing I've heard in my journey, at least for the version of the issue I've described, is a user on here who told me he solved it by plugging an EDID emulator into his Pocket Dock. Can't say if it works myself as I've not tried yet, but your post reminded me to go ahead and buy one, so I just did that. Guess I'll know if it works in two days.
You didn't link to anything.
As long as you aren't trying to run a bunch of stuff off of the same one at the same time you should be fine with something like the Anker 60W 6 Port USB Charging Station. If you are using wireless controllers or Everdrive the power draw is a bit higher than what Analogue recommends though. The one I linked will drop down to 2.4amps per port is you are running them all at the same time and I think you need around 3amps to power a Super NT with wireless and an Everdrive correctly.
You cannot use the DAC with a PC CRT. It only outputs a 15Khz signal and a VGA monitor needs at least a 30Khz signal. You need to use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZMV7RL2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I tried several HDMI to VGA adapters and this is the only one that worked with the analogue consoles. For the best picture I use these settings:
resolution: 480p
scaling H and V: 2x
disable H and V interpolation
Then use the monitor's picture controls to stretch the image to the size of the monitor. If you use the console's scaling to stretch the image it will have very noticeable shimmering. With these setting though, you can turn on scanlines and it will look exactly like a high-end 240p BVM/PVM
I’m using the felt accessory pouch that comes included with the ProCase MacBook Air 13 inch sleeve (Amazon Canada):
Note: The accessory pouch is sold separately but it’s not the same.. the dimensions were a little larger than the one included in the link above.
For my use case, I will mostly be playing the Pocket at home and just need something to safely store it when not in use. When I do take it out on the go I will likely pair it with an everdrive versus carrying multiple carts. So, I was in the market for an inexpensive soft pouch that is minimalist in design and provides decent enough protection.
I really like this pouch! The Pocket slide in and out very easily (quick access is important to me).https://imgur.com/a/NXzMUZ6/ It’s close to a perfect fit except it does stick out a couple millimetres. It is not that big of a deal since the front flap cover goes over it but worth mentioning as there is some exposure in the corners (see attached pics). Personally, I’m not bothered by this. I love the overall look and fit.
There is a front pocket on this pouch but it’s pretty small. Can comfortably fit one GB game or 2 GBA games. It’s a minimalist case and I recommend it as such. If you want ultimate protection and storage for games/charger, this is not the case for you.
If you don’t want to shell out money for the Waterfield case, this one works amazingly. I have nothing but good things to say about it, especially for the price! But then again, I don’t carry mine in my bag or anything, it’s mainly just a place to store it in the house, so YMMV.
This is what we're using:
It's a little bit big on the inside though (hence the crocheted case). But it does have a velcro panel that you can adjust to make it a snugger fit.
U9 ViewHD 5 Port HDMI 2.0 5x1 Switch Selector | 4K@60Hz 18Gbps 4:4:4 | HDCP 2.2 | HDR & Dolbi Vision | Model: UHD5X1B https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MCPVVTS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_0442X1CPMB89YSNVD5F0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have the same thing (in black). I bought this foam piece to fit in the clear part to keep it from moving around when closed:
Pelican 1042 Foam Set (1040-400-000) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00091SBW4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I got this case off of Amazon and it seems to do the job pretty well.
Here's a fit pic: https://i.imgur.com/6IVG4xT.jpg
Since it's got a little extra vertical room that means the rounded corners don't squeeze the corners too much, it actually fits pretty well.
A lot of people seem to love my recommendation. Plenty of room for games and accessories, hardshell, and pocket fits nicely. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DQBC6NH/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_VZTJ1N39938VSHB0NTPM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
In Europe they still sell them on Amazon
While most of these games are only available for download in .gb files, assuming a jailbreak is released, these will be playable on the Pocket. Additionally, you could contact the developer (who are all usually very reachable) and ask them to build the game for Pocket, which is seemingly pretty simple.
The issue is most likely that your flash drive has a GPT partition table, it needs to be MBR.
Windows has no easy way to do this built in. I recommend just downloading rufus (Here: https://rufus.ie/en/) and making sure "Boot selection" is "Non-bootable", "Partition Scheme" is set to MBR, and filesystem to FAT32. The rest can be left as default and hit start. It will then properly format the flash drive.
Alternatively, since it seems you have a mac. Find your flash drive in disk utilities, and click "erase". Enter whatever name you want, but make sure format is "MS-DOS (FAT)" and scheme says "Master Boot Record".
Once you've got the stick formatted like this, it should work.
G40 by Pelican might be a fun alternative. Fits well within spec and you can insert foam fitters for more snug (protective) fit. Check out here
I love the Retro-Bit 10FT wired controller. No lag and a nice long cable. $15
Retro-Bit Official Sega Genesis Controller 6-Button Arcade Pad for Sega Genesis - Original Port (Red) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09C56X67S/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_C613QAEJZKH9FR1ZKCER?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here is an anti-glare one from the sane brand.
Analogue Pocket Screen Protector, BoxWave [ClearTouch Anti-Glare (2-Pack)] Anti-Fingerprint Matte Film Skin for Analogue Pocket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091MFDS6N/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_F04VH9DPBBJ9B1CTYH51
I started the print and went to bed (don't leave your 3d printer unsupervised, kids) and tried out this morning and it's great! Thanks!
Another suggestion for a Pocket project I have though. A screen protector alignment guide. The screen protectors are $16 + S&H so if you mess up you're screwed, nobody's buying two of them. Something that fits perfect around the screen so you can just drop the protector into it would be great.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Trianium-Screen-Protector-Compatible-Tempered/dp/B09D8WY8B8
One I’m using and cutting myself ArmorSuit MilitaryShield Screen Protector Designed for Samsung Galaxy S20 / Galaxy S20 5G (6.2")(Case Friendly) Ultrasonic Fingerprint Compatible Anti-Bubble HD Clear Film https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084R92LBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_HQS8V3K243NGHZMKN3KX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I grabbed this case off Amazon:
And I’m very happy with the fit. I bought the Pocket’s hardshell protector and it fits in the bottom compartment. It has pouches that fit the cartridges and a zippered top for cables and things (like the adapters). I managed to also fit the 18W power adapter in the bottom next to the hard case, but you mileage may vary depending on how full you try to stuff it.
[Officially Licensed Hard Protective 3DS XL Carrying Case
](http://Officially Licensed Hard Protective 3DS XL Carrying Case - Compatiable with Nintendo 3DS XL, 2DS XL, New 3DS, 3DSi, 3DSi XL - Includes Game Card Pouch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NB8BWG8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_ZV5F14QP85XY57VJMFZT)
Okay so buy a cheap $10-$12 mini SD card on Amazon.
SanDisk 32GB Extreme microSDHC UHS-I Memory Card with Adapter - C10, U3, V30, 4K, A1, Micro SD - SDSQXAF-032G-GN6MA, Red/Gold https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWMQ81P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_RCE1CPDF6SEYKZTTTB7X
Then plug that into one of these:
Micro USB OTG to USB 2.0 SD Card Adapter, COCOCKA Micro SD Card Reader，Trail Camera Memory Card Adapter Connector for Android Phone/Computer，Supports SD/SDHC/SCXC/MMC/MMC Micro https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BXSKPES/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_HXYR472H4PQPX6DCS09Q
Then just plug it into any USB port on your laptop.
I bought these from Amazon a few years ago- they’re exactly the right width if a bit longer of a roll, I just took off the translucent cover until the roll shrinks.
Tempted to order this but it doesn't have free shipping
I bought this Amazon Basics NES Classic case and after cutting a few pieces of the foam, it fits the Super NT and all of my accessories perfectly.
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Carry-Storage-Nintendo-Classic-switch/dp/B0714R28X6
I am able to store the console itself, FXPak Pro, 2x 8bitdo 2.4g controllers + receivers, the power brick and power/hdmi cables. The case is sturdy and compact, which is exactly what I was looking for.
Hopefully this helps anyone else seeking a similar solution :)
I have the retro receiver (the Bluetooth controller adapter for the snes) and a variety of Bluetooth controllers, and the lag on Bluetooth makes most SNES games (with the exception of RPGs) nigh unplayable. You may consider holding off on the retro receiver, and buying the 2.4 ghz SN30 instead:
8Bitdo Sn30 2.4G Wireless Gamepad for Original SNES/Sfc (Transparent Edition) - Super NES https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092DXQYDK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_M3EHNXBHDHYKW418TE32
These controllers are the best wireless option I have found thus far.
I don't think it will work. What I needed to do was use this software to format the SD card, then I could install the firmware updates without any trouble:
Just some advice, every SD-card formatter (even the one in Windows built-in for general storage devices) is basically doing it wrong.
What you want to do with virtually all of your SD cards, is format them using the tool as recommended by the folks (SD Association) managing the entire format itself. The latest version is 5.01.
This doesn't have anything to do with your issue I'd imagine since it works fine on real hardware (I think your issue is, you simply need to update you Super NT). But I just hope more people get exposed to this information. I read about it a few years ago, and never had a problem since.
Sorry for the off-topic ramble.
(also dont forget basics like trying to see if your system is set to NTSC or something, I think someone had an issue like that long ago with getting games to boot).
I had your same issue, and simply updating the FXPak Pro and the Super NT solved the entire issue.
I use this one. Have a super nt, mega sag and a switch connected and it works fine.
If you have the Nintendo Switch wireless SNES controller, this 8bitdo dongle reads it:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K1T9CZS
Not really worth it though if you don't have the controller already as you're looking at $55 for the controller and dongle. Pretty cool to use wireless OEM SNES controllers on the Super Nt though.
I personally use this one, and Don't have an issue with my NT Mini, Super NT, and Mega SG. Now it doesn't see my mister at all. So there is that issue.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079L8VZ5R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
For those of you in Germany/in the EU, I use this one for my Analogue consoles: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B07BGY3BS7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share Works perfectly fine with my LG C9. I also hooked my Switch up because why not. The auto switching works without a hitch and once the power's cut, there's no residual power on the HDMI ports. I got it as a warehouse deal for about €26.
Ya, probably have to return it and try another. I went through one or two before finding in that worked. Not too expensive and auto switches between inputs, works with my PS5, Super NT and N64 on an RCA to hdmi. Good luck
(Upgraded Version) ROOFULL 5 Port... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083NWKPXW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
N. American market: I just bought this one and installed it. It appears to be auto-switching very well and has 5 input ports.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07CRWBPN4?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details&th=1
(I use Amazon smile to redirect even a little money to a better cause, sorry about the url)
are you outputting 1080p 60hz from the analogue consoles?
I use this product with no issues for exactly how you are trying to use it. AMAZON LINK
The holy grail: get an 8bitdo SNES adapter and an official Switch SNES controller. 8bitdo is awesome and updated the firmware of the former to be compatible with the latter.
Dude: 8Bitdo Sn30 2.4G Wireless Gamepad for Original SNES/Sfc (Transparent Edition) - Super NES https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092DXQYDK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_05A6V8BZYVQR1TGAC12C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'm in the same boat. Was able secure the SNES ones without an issue (they're fantastic) but the Genesis ones are proving to be a struggle for me.
I did find the "officially" licensed Retro-bit ones but have zero experience with them. Maybe someone can provide some feedback on this model ( https://www.amazon.com/Retro-Bit-Wireless-Controller-8-Button-Original/dp/B07WP2ZYNR/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=retrobit+genesis&qid=1634560318&sr=8-2) ?
OP - not trying to hijack your post but I wanted to provide a little more as I am also looking for a solution.
for general audio, hdmi or whatever wires I would install something like this
VCE Single Brush Wall Plate with Single Gang Low Voltage Mounting Bracket Cable Pass Through Insert for Wires, Single Gang Cable Access Strap, Wall Socket for HDTV, Home Theater Systems 3 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MT1QSQM
If you're also running a power cables down the wall, it's very easy to branch off that outlet and install one behind the TV. Check out YouTube videos of the procedure and make sure to flip the breaker before doing anything.
They make boxes that have power and wire management built in, or you can do it with two separate ones
ah, yea, the bundle ones are hard to find these days since it's easier (and more cost effective) to just sell the controllers. luckily, all someone would need is their retro receiver https://www.amazon.com/Gam3Gear-8Bitdo-Dualshock-Controller-Bluetooth/dp/B01JU57ES6/
LightDims Black Out Edition - Light Blocking LED Covers / Light Dimming Sheets for Routers, Electronics and Appliances and More. Blocks 100% of Light, in Minimal Packaging. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLVQG68/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_JPJEKE496377060BB30Z
There are a couple way to do it but not using the Super NT directly.
If you TV supports Bluetooth you are set. Check you manual.
If your TV has an optical audio (TOSLink) output that you are not using for a receiver or soundbar you can use it with one of these to connect bluetooth headphones. If you are already using it you can get a TOSLink splitter to hook up both devices at the same time.
Speaking of soundbars some of them have Bluetooth as well so if you are using one check it's manual. Same goes for receivers.
Lastly you could get an HDMI audio extractor and then plug a Bluetooth audio transmitter into that.
Now the downside of all these options: the audio is probably going to be out of sync with your game because Bluetooth audio tends to be a little laggy. It doesn't matter for music and there are adjustments that most TVs can make for movies and stuff, but games don't work like that. If you try to audio lag adjust your game you will basically be seeing your game from half a second ago or however much you have to adjust it.
I messed around with a few cheap Amazon ones that I wasn't happy with and just got this one:
Monoprice Blackbird
I haven't put it fully through it's paces but so far it is really nice and better built than the others I had been using. It does need power though.
This is what I’m using with my micro USB controllers, you’d just need a 2A// 10W+ usb wall charger for 4 controllers. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V9K9NLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8Y0RR0K0NRQT96DPHN7R
I also have used this for my SG and NT but only powering them on one at a time.
Before I got my hands on the SN.30 from 8bitdo, I preordered this guy. It took some time to arrive (I actually found the sn.30 before it released) and I gotta say I was impressed and use it pretty regularly. I'd say check out some reviews or something. https://www.amazon.com/Retro-Bit-Wireless-Controller-Raspberry-Super-Nintendo/dp/B08ZFDSMGQ/
Same issue here, I heard good things and am waiting for the Legacy16 but I am also hedging with an OG snes wired controller. I feel the Legacy 16 is doing too much though.
I'd like to piggyback off your post and ask a related question of my own. I plan on passing power through my DAC to both Mega Sg and Super Nt if possible. Like OP, I will only have one on at a time, of course. Will something like this USB splitter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179OXY9I) work or will I need to power one of them separately?
I have the MegaSD from the initial run, and it's been really solid for my use
BUT if I was to buy a flashcart again, I'd buy the Mega Everdrive Pro, and here's why:
- Krikzz support and availability, shipping is fast from Krikzz or even Amazon, while Terraonion can take quite a while to ship.
- MegaSD firmware updates need to be matched to the serial number of your MegaSD, so you have to log into the Terraonion website and download a bespoke firmware for your device. Krikkz firmware/OS updates are freely available.
- Mega Everdrive Pro is compact, the size of a standard Genesis cart, while the MegaSD is huge, the size of the Virtua Racing cart. Also, getting the MicroSD out of the MegaSD is awkward, I have to use a spudger or flathead screwdriver to get it out.
Having said that, the MegaSD is still a fine device, it'll suit your needs very well, and the interface really nice looking. I've worked with Terraonion support for an unrelated issue, and they really stand by their products, so lack of support shouldn't be an issue.
Thanks to u/A-Jill-Sandwich for originally sharing this. 8BitDo are preparing a new variant of the 8BitDo SN30 2.4G. It's up on Amazon (link below), but is likely to appear in more places.
^(I think I'm going to have to get this controller as it represents the product that broke rule 4.)
I believe this is the same case on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Expansion-Desktop-Elements-External/dp/B07RBQ3Z5V/ref=sr_1_7?dchild=1&keywords=wd+my+book+carrying+case&qid=1621703818&sr=8-7
I have this case that I use to carry computer access but it fits a super nt, all of the cables, a wired controller, and a game or 2nd controller. I want to make a foam insert but haven’t got around to it yet.
Available again now. Hurry! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08536V3PH/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A37H6AYBLM0PCO&th=1
Its available again now. HURRY! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08536V3PH/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A37H6AYBLM0PCO&th=1
That gamepad is only for the SNES Classic not the Super NT/SNES.
​
90% is absolutely fine to use, in theory the more concentrated the better, so I personally don’t mess around with the 70% range formulas. Others say it doesn’t matter as long as you dry/buff it afterwards.
My retro shop sells 1up Cards cleaning solutions separately, which is 99%, so I pick them up there. The 1up Cards themselves is a neat cleaning tool alternative to the cotton swabs.
Both SN and SF30 controllers in stock on Amazon, limited quantity per Wario64 tweet.
8bitdo just restocked both SN and SF versions on Amazon, apparently low stock per Wario64 tweet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08536VCZL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Should consider the Retro Bit controller, it’s officially licensed and is pretty great. https://smile.amazon.com/Retro-Bit-Wireless-Controller-8-Button-Original/dp/B07WP2ZYNR/ref=sr_1_1?crid=33CW07HCJT2Q&dchild=1&keywords=retrobit+genesis&qid=1618850064&sprefix=Retro+bit+ge%2Caps%2C216&sr=8-1
Here you go. (one left as of this comment).
I'm using this iFi power supply: https://www.amazon.com/iPower-Supply-International-Travel-Adapters/dp/B01LZD8SHJ?th=1
Cleaner power, more amps, no noise. Audiophiles appear to swear by them.
I'm having a similar issue with the Analogue NT Mini Noir glitching out with my FDS. I'm using the official firmware v1.1, and after a few minutes of playing a game, it glitches out with random junk on the screen and freezes.
I followed the manual and made sure I was in Fully Buffered mode, but this does not resolve the issue.
I have a bunch of FDS games, and it happens on all of them.
I tried contacting Analogue support, but there's no resolution so far.
Anybody else out there having the issue?
Update -
Static discharge appears to have stopped after a second board replacement (yes, my board was replaced twice), AND using this iFi power supply: https://www.amazon.com/iPower-Supply-International-Travel-Adapters/dp/B01LZD8SHJ?th=1
Cleaner power, more amps, no noise.
The power supplies that ships are super cheap $2 commodity units. Kind of low rent for the price of these devices. . . Not 100% whether or not it is the issue or part of it, but there is no longer discharge. I could be full of it, but I am at least now confident in the power supply.
So far so good. . .
First, extension cables exist.
Second, I'm not really sure what FPGA has to do with Bluetooth latency. RetroPie and SNES Classic are going to have more troubling latency (or maybe inaccuracy is a better term) introduced at the emulation level itself. I'm not an expert, but I can distinctly tell the difference between playing Super Mario World on an SNES Classic and original hardware or a Super NT. The original hardware and Super NT are noticeably more responsive regardless of whether I'm wired, on 2.4G, or even on Bluetooth. There are definitely ways to mitigate this kind of latency in modern emulation software (frame skip, frame delay, GPU hard sync, and so forth), but I have yet to achieve settings on an emulator that feel exactly like the original hardware/FPGA (I usually use Super Mario Bros. and Super Mario World as my points of reference).
Anyhow, just thought it was a bit weird that you took the lack of a lag-free wireless controller as an FPGA deal breaker since it's an issue with a much easier solution than the kind of lag/latency/inaccuracy inherent to non-FPGA emulators.
>No, the Bluetooth ones don't have the right plug ins for a SNES. They are all USB.
Actually, some of them do come with the SNES plug (like the clear SN30 for example). You can also buy it separately:
That one is for classic consoles.
This is the one
Also, note there’s a 3rd-party GBA-to-SNES cartridge. But, the way it works is it simply passes the controller inputs to the cartridge, but the cartridge itself has its own composite video output due to the bandwidth limitations: https://www.amazon.com/Retro-Bit-Super-Retro-Advance-Adapter-nintendo/dp/B00EXPCTQQ
You mean like the N30 2.4g?
https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Gamepad-Original-nintendo-entertainment-system/dp/B08536LMXN
If you're looking into that model, make sure you get the NES version, not the NES Classic version.
Amazon has it Famicom N8 Pro
I already have an n8 pro any idea if expansion audio will work with something like this Nintendo NES to Famicom Game Converter Adapter 72 to 60 pins https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PNVOBTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_bBwVFbASV1KA8
Dumb question about the Analogue DAC.
I know the DAC is only compatible with Analogue products, but can I use an HDMI switch in between the Analogue consoles and the Analogue DAC? So for example:
Mega Sg & Super Nt -----> HDMI switch -----> DAC -----> CRT TV
Would this work? I would think the HDMI switch is just passing through the HDMI signal of one console at a time and it would work, but I don't know if the DAC is 'checking' to see what the device is upstream somehow.
- "Fully Buffered" runs the SNES core at its original speed (~60.08 FPS), which renders to an offscreen framebuffer; the most-recently finished framebuffer is displayed on the screen . This adds "no more than" one frame of lag, or 16ms; the lag cycles between 0 and 16ms in a repeatable "sawtooth" pattern. It also drops a frame every ten seconds, although this is only a visual artifact relevant to the HDMI rendering--internally the SNES itself experiences no dropped frames.
- "Zero Delay", where the SNES is downclocked to exactly 60Hz, syncing it exactly with the HDMI output. This means there's no display lag, but gameplay is sliiiightly slower--you lose roughly 1 second every ten minutes.
- "Single Buffer", where the internal SNES core is run at its original speed, and output is piped directly to the screen. This is the most accurate mode: the game is run at the correct speed, and there's no display lag. The downside is that there's some screen tearing, one tear rolling up the screen every ten seconds.
In Single Buffer it will roll up the screen and its trip will take about 10 sec as it moves from bottom to top. Or, you can avoid all this by using a DAC + a CRT.
I actually prefer to use them for retro gaming whenever possible. If you prefer not to use analog sticks then you would probably want the basic SN30: https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Controller-Classic-nintendo_super_NES-super-nintendo/dp/B074HBNNH6/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=8bitdo+sn30&qid=1601404458&sprefix=8bitdo+sn&sr=8-8
Thanks for the link. A charging brick like that would be perfect if it was shaped like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Wavlink-Powered-Charging-Individual-Switches/dp/B0819RPSMY/
There's just a risk that the one I linked will only put out 200mA unless the device negotiates more. I doubt these devices would. Don't want to buy it if doubtful that it will work. That Anker one would certainly put out enough power by default, but I'd like to turn ports off easily without unplugging things.
Now that I think on it more... I have many non-USB systems that would be nice to leave unplugged too. Maybe it would be better to just go with an AC strip like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Pyle-Pro-Mountable-Protector-Control-Outlets/dp/B00BQO5S0G