What are /r/Ask3D's favorite Products & Services?

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The select ultimate is a rebadge of the wanhao duplicator 6, I know the wanhao dup 6 does have an enclosure kit lurking around somewhere but I don't remember where.

The bed for it is like an alum sheet with build tape slapped down on there, easy enough to make a mod / use binder clips for glass.

Cooling fan, tons of mods out there, so a quick and easy fix. Monoprice has outstanding customer service, though when it comes to prints it basically relates to some minor support then send it back and you get another machine back.

A review on the ultimate http://hackaday.com/2016/08/30/review-monoprice-maker-ultimate-3d-printer/

As far as getting down to 20 microns, to be frank, on the majority of machines it going to want to make you tear you hair out. At 0.02mm layer heights everything is going to slow down to a crawl, have to every retractions, speed, settings on the nose to get good results out at that low of a layer height. 0.1mm layer heights are easily achieved for FDM/FFF machines out there.

Thanks for the suggestion. I think I'm going to go with a 2-part epoxy, as it will probably have a much longer shelf-life and is cheaper.

I've found some 1lb tubs of 2 part epoxy on Amazon for $20. I'm going to buy some of it and see how well it works. My main worry was a strong epoxy reacting with the plastic, but this stuff claims to work on rubber, teflon and most other materials so I think it will work out. Reviews are also decent, but you can't really trust Amazon reviews. I'll post back with results once it's arrived and I can try it.

Funnel this to the extruder, removing the heating wire, then funnel this into the cooling blower, on top of a cool pad.

MONEY

Well, http://hackaday.com/ is a good place to get lost looking link diving (but it covers all things, not just 3D printing). https://www.youtube.com/user/TheMakersMuse is a (imo) good youtube blogger (he is sponsored) but most of the good information I've found has started in company forums or thingiverse, just following comments, usernames, sometimes just a model number of a part.

It's just one guy's hacks to the stock firmware (Repetier) that comes with the A8. The guy just uncommented like, three lines of code, and fine tuned some of the settings the shadow factories that make clones don't bother to double check. You could make something far better documented, as well as functional, by dumping your settings and using them to generate a new firmware using this tool provided by the actual devs of Repetier. You'd be able to configure the firmware to match the actual settings of whatever printer you want to build, and load it onto any board with enough space for it. That said, the TinyG CNC board is not designed to run a printer, at all. It doesn't even seem to have a spot to output to a hotend. If you want to upgrade to a board better suited to a printer, I'd recommend you look at something like a RAMBo, or maybe an improved MKS SBase, as those are meant to drive a 3D printer, where a CNC board like you've mentioned is meant to drive, well, a CNC.

I get these failures once in a while. .25mm layer height. Grey V2. in the example in the post, that particular part was in a batch with 11 other parts that survived perfectly. Here is another example.

There is some limitation to Ivideon (https://www.ivideon.com/) related to the android version (I think).

Aside from that we use it all the time since YouTube only allows one live stream at a time. You can do public or private streams free and their paid service offers DVR capabilities.

https://www.ivideon.com/tv/camera/200-888df1fabae11dd4f783d93139bfe891/0/?lang=en

Ok, I have an onshape account, but I haven't bothered to learn to use it yet (I've been using/learning Fusion 360), so this is just going by documentation. But if you have access to a PC, just not your own, you could sign up for the cloud cad onshape. It's supposed to be able to import SLDPRT which you should then be able to export as STL, all without installing any software.

Will pint a benchy tonight with stock settings and post for you to checkout. $330 on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018GZBC3Y/ref=dra_a_rv_mr_ho_xx_P3379_100?tag=dradisplay-20&ascsubtag=b9063924b419f1820d33eeff66a4ea4c_S

Monoprice just came out with new version at $399. I haven't looked too much into differences.

They look like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Elitexion-Screw-Extractor-Remover-Set/dp/B07C5C6WKB/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=Nipple+extractor&qid=1598429845&sr=8-6

My experience with PLA is it is pretty resistant to moisture absorption (although this might be because my room is very dry?). But target sells some vacuum seal bags that work well. You can also buy reusable desiccant packs on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Hydrosorbent-OSG-40-Dehumidifier-Desiccant-Chloride/dp/B0037Z8K3E/ref=zg_bs_3013604011_19?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=W92DDXBK5WW7XMXJ3R63

jk I usually buy Hatchbox pla https://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-3D-PLA-1KG1-75-BLK-Filament-Dimensional/dp/B01N53KX79/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1512620235&sr=1-3&keywords=hatchbox+pla+1.75

I bought the hictop model which is pretty similar although more expensive. The instructions were poor and one hole was not threaded. Other then that it works well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015IHMOSK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Monoprice printer is a really good option, Doesn't needs assembling and easy to set up, the bed relatively small, the quality is excellent compared to the price. it works with open source slicers such as CURA.

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Select-Printer-Heated-Filament/dp/B01FL49VZE/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1488287932&sr=1-3&keywords=3d+printer

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-13860-Maker-Select-Printer/dp/B018GZBC3Y/ref=sr_1_5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1488287932&sr=1-5&keywords=3d+printer

Monoprice printer is a really good option, Doesn't needs assembling and easy to set up, the bed relatively small, the quality is excellent compared to the price. it works with open source slicers such as CURA.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Select-Printer-Heated-Filament/dp/B01FL49VZE/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1488287932&sr=1-3&keywords=3d+printer

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-13860-Maker-Select-Printer/dp/B018GZBC3Y/ref=sr_1_5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1488287932&sr=1-5&keywords=3d+printer

You could make one yourself by buying a heated silicone​ mat and adhering it to the back of a sheet of aluminum, or you can look online for what's called a PCB heated bed. Here is a listing for a basic PCB bed. These do tend to warp somewhat though​, so I'd recommend picking up a sheet of borosilicate glass and clamping it over the surface.

• If you have an attached SD card reader you do not need to have the printer attached to the computer. The SD card reader for my kit printer (a Folger Tech i3) was on an LCD screen I purchased from Amazon for about $15.
• When connected to the computer you can monitor the print status in 3D visually (you can use the LCD as a status as well). The program to run the print does not take up much noticeable resources.
• As I mentioned, I put mine together from a kit. There was very little soldering, a lot of screws, and connecting some wires to the controller board. It was not hard but the directions, although good, were not perfect. All of the screws were in one bunch, so separating them out to the right size was tedious. An Allen wrench set, needle nose pliers, a caliper, and a soldering iron were needed. Since some of the printer parts were also 3D printed, some needed some minor adjustments with a Dremel tool. You could handle the soldering - it was very easy and only two wires if I recall correctly. You are not soldering a circuit board. Overall the kit build was not difficult, just time consuming.
• I have been using the printer in a basement workshop and not noticed any fumes. If you are concerned, you can use PLA filament which may be overall a safer choice than ABS filament. Do your own research here.

This is a total shot in the dark since frankly you didn't give us a whole lot to work on but, are you sure your power supply is right? Both that it is putting out the voltage you are expecting (those silver box ones are adjustable) and that it is the right polarity? A lot of these small PCBs do not have protection from the power supply, and over volting them or hooking it up backwards is a good way to fry them.

Just from my experience, sometimes the print bed can get dusty if I don't use it for a long time. Something like Acetone works well to clean the bed if you have glass. My printer doesn't have a bed height probe, so I also use a feeler gauge to set the initial height.

Something like this will do it. https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Valve-Offset-Feeler-Gauge/dp/B01IPWOAOQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481432332&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=feeler+gauge&psc=1

Let us know if you are able to solve it.

Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet, 8" x 8" 3D Printing Build Surface with 3M 468MP Adhesive Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KGDTPQK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WB3qybRCVC0HD

To increase your chances, make sure you use some quality PLA. The difference is in the chemistry and the quality control. I'm getting some great results with MatterHackers PLA. Pro grade, I think it's called.

Yeah, this is considered more than enough power for a typical printer, so that's pretty beastly, haha. Anyway, the easiest conversion for a CNC mill is usually just to replace the brains with a basic Arduino based board that you can load Marlin or Repetier onto. The problem here though is the fact that I'm betting the motors you've got can't run that well with the max power most of those little built in stepper drivers can handle (I wanna say it's 2 amps at 12V per motor?) I know there's a way to add external steppers via relays and whatnot, but I've not had any experience with that. As far as the rest, all you really'd need to do is make sure the bed is just a flat, preferably heated surface (I think a lot of CNCs use vacuum tables? Not something you want for printing), and make a mount that you can use to hold something like an E3D-V6 in place where the head used to be. After that, you just need an extruder, and you can either attach that directly above the hotend or stick it somewhere off to the side and run the plastic through a teflon tube, in what's called a Bowden extruder.

this is the one i bought https://www.amazon.com/HICTOP-Desktop-Accuracy-Self-Assembly-Tridimensional/dp/B00N7I1ZVU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1477169683&sr=8-1&keywords=hictop+prusa#feature-bullets-btf i cant find the wattage anywhere any way i can find it?