What are
/r/AskMechanics'
favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/AskMechanics:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/AskMechanics:
The most popular reviews in /r/AskMechanics:
If you still have all the parts of the clip, you can try to glue them back together. Or if you have a 3d printer, you can just make a new one. If you don't, and you can't come up with a better option, as a last resort you can PM me, and I'll do it for you.
That said, if you just google "window regulator clip," you will almost certainly find something that'll do the job, whether or not it's for your car specifically. Just cut the old one off with a razor blade or a utility knife or something, and then scrape the old glue off with the same. Then you'll use this stuff to glue on a new clip, bolt it into the regulator, and let it set in place.
Use a long chisel or punch and hammer against the base plate in a way that turns it counterclockwise. Be careful not to mark any part of the mounting surface where the filter seats - only hit against the filter's base plate.
Place your impacts as close to the outside rim as possible to maximise leverage.
You can also try a nylon strap wrench, probably one of the few things that can still grab what's left.
Here's a link to a mechanics stethoscope. It's cheap and tremendously effective for finding noises. Touch the metal probe on everything that you think could be making the noise. It's a game of you're getting hotter - you're getting colder till you touch what's making the noise. Other moving chassis noises, this tool with find the noise almost every time.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015DLMOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_7AQMZ2PNN55PJERWS0RS
One or a combination of these tools will get most of that stuff apart. I can't vouch for the quality of this set but my OTC set has the same tools and makes pIn in the ass stuff like this very easy.
Edit: you can rent this stuff from most parts stores
I'll echo the posts about replacing that caliper. I might be wrong, but I believe that's a phenolic piston. They often crack if you push the piston back with an improper tool (especially if you use a large channel-lock). If you do your own brake work, invest in one of either of these tools. Alternatively, keep the old brake pad against the pistons and use two C-clamps equally to compress the two pistons.
Yeah I have. There are two adapters but neither fit.
https://www.amazon.com/Point-Spline-Drive-Socket-Locking/dp/B01B3KTGL4
Would this be the right one?
Thank you so much for your time in answering all my followups.
Considering a purchase of ‘08 Mazda 5 for sale on Facebook Marketplace . Seller says it was just the bumper cover that needed replacing for the title rebuild. Does this sound right? Possible? Or would there have been more involved? Any help is appreciated!
Absolutely, it’ll fit in glove box. I honestly laughed and thought it was junk when my wife bought them. But I had to eat crow when my car wouldn’t start that winter and it saved the day. I’ve honestly used mine more times than I care to say, since my one vehicle has an odd parasitic draw I can’t seem to find lol. Here’s a link. https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Starter-Battery-Devices-Charger/dp/B07W85TF6X
https://www.amazon.com/Automotive-Maintenance-Light-Repair-Thompson/dp/1111307415
This is the book we had in my class. Not bad for learning the basics. It does have a bunch of typos. Find the latest edition. A better book that is more in depth but also explains everything for a beginner is. Modern Automotive technology by g-w. https://www.thriftbooks.com/w/modern-automotive-technology-textbook_james-e-duffy_duffy-james-e-duffy-james-e/306091/item/4273061/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw3f6HBhDHARIsAD_i3D--X58X8DM-B3bhYBTU4-oZOUVxo5kW-SzywqUHZeJN4acv6SyMv20aAm-HEALw_wcB#isbn=1590701860&a...
This one is actually much better.
Mityvac pressure bleeder kit works fantastic, but isn’t cheap. You can also get a vacuum bleeder kit but it’s easy to mess up your brakes if ya don’t know how to use it.
Otherwise it takes a while but just a buddy and a piece of tubing into a drain pan is the cheapest
I got a pair of ramps, a pair of jack stands and a good hydraulic jack. The ramps see the most use by far because they’re so easy. For tire rotations since I won’t be getting under the car I hold one end up with the stands and the other from the subframe with the jack.
Also I strongly recommend getting a big metal oil drain pan. You can clean it out with sawdust. I’ve tried several of the plastic drain pans and I feel like they all suck.
Behrens 2168 3-Gallon Seamless... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BOB7RU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Probably a T25, emphasis on probably. You’re better off getting a set, sometimes JIS fasteners have different than expected drive sizes.
Get yourself a new mechanic mate. Coolant leaks aren't that hard to find. Check your oil cap if it has a lot of white ish goo on it (leak is internal in the engine: head gasket/ruptured head or the likes). Next step: check for white smoke ( the coolant somehow finds its way in the cilinders, headgasket is the usual suspect) if both isn't the case,Get yourself this (example). Hook it up to the coolant tank. Pressurise it to the spec on the coolant pressure cap (should be around 110/120kPa from the top of my head). You should see seepage somewhere. If you don't have enough coolant in the system just add some water in a pinch, it's not a big deal for diagnoses. If you have pinned down the source of the leak you can determine if and how you want to fix the car. If you decide to fix it; replace all the coolant while you're at it, the stop leak junk is no bueno.
i have been using this one for my sports car. Heavy but somewhat compact and durable. 130 bucks aint bad. It only has a 3000LB limit but you are only lifting a art of the vehicle so shouldnt be a issue
If you're talking about just the nut on top, then yes, you can just use any other nut of the same size/thread. If you do want to replace the whole terminal, here's the link.
The pinned discs are for cars that have the rear parking brake in the disc brakes (opposed to a drum brake for the parking brake). The piston on those calipers turn into the piston, rather than just push in.
I wouldn't recommend the caulking gun style. They're quick, but they're a little more limited than the ones I posted below.
I most often use this style compressor or this style vise grip.
You probably took out the head gasket when you overheated it. Stop driving it or you'll wreck the whole engine. Pick up this thing. It's a very inexpensive and accurate way to tell if there's a combustion leak into the cooling system. It's also very diy friendly.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VVBSFTF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_0RXcGb2TVWJKP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If it is leaking, it will need to be replaced. It can be a diy job if you're up to it and you have the tools. Otherwise schedule an appointment with a shop.
No matter what anyone says, DO NOT USE HEAD GASKET SEALANT that you dump in the cooling system. It can plug cooling passages, wreck your heater and cause engine damage. It does not work most of the time and if it does it won't hold for long. It will fail again under high load aka on the freeway and then you will have a tow truck bill too. The only reason anyone should consider using it is to drive the car to a junkyard.
It sure sounds like a idler to me. Pick up a mechanics stethoscope and touch it to the center bolt of all the pulleys. They will all sound about the same except for the bad one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015DLMOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_xrd0Fb07QGK59
The glass coming off complicates things. If you can remove the glass chip and the old adhesive and get a completely smooth surface for the mirror mount, you can reattach the mirror to the glass yourself, using a special rear view mirror adhesive kit
But you can't attach it to the old chipped area, reattach it just to one side, where the glass is undamaged.
To bench bleed you have to completely disconnect the brake lines from the master cylinder and use a kit like this >
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001SG8ZC0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabt1_sMjRFb10AWQZP
You're literally recirculating fluid from the ports back into the reservoir. Pump pump pump till the bubbles stop.
Once the bubbles stop, hook the lines back up and start the bleeding process.
There's some porta power accessories like that. I can't vouch for the quality of the tools I'm linking to, so beware. Mine are very old and made in the US. The first one has quite a bit of power ,the second one not as much. The clam can fit in very tight spots though
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RCCLRNN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vWeNFbM12NVFP
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L7LDY89/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SZeNFb66BPXHF
A picture would be worth a thousand words
Option 4 would make it much easier to replace the choke. But you are right that you would need to install a new weather pack end on the new choke. Hope you're ok with solder cause you actually need to fabricate these weather packs yourself. You can probably find a pair of pre-made generic connectors at an auto parts store, or amazon https://www.amazon.com/Diageng-Waterproof-Electrical-Connector-Marine/dp/B00BYNKUSE/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1486498227&sr=1-8&keywords=2+pin+connectors+auto (can't seem to find just one)
T-taps are not a great idea. Look for butt connectors with shrink wrap and solder built in, all you need to do is insert your wires and apply heat. Amazon sells large kits for 10 dollars. You might find smaller kits locally
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DPS8DPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zV4HDb92NBTMM
You are going to tap in to a 12v circuit from the cig lighter which is fine, but what are you going to use to step the voltage down to 5v?
Your best bet is to remove your negative battery cable for safety.
That is a right-angle screwdriver. Search Amazon and other sources for variations on this theme. Here is a name brand version made by Lisle.
That's not an LED, it's an incandescent bulb in a holder. You can get them on Amazon.
You could try drilling out the old welds on the hatch and putting in Nutserts. (Note this is just an example, I would likely get a nicer set if I planned to keep the tool, or a cheaper set if I didn't!)
Then you would have to drill out the weld on the bracket too and bolt it back in place.
It would make a pretty permanent repair without welding, but it could cause more issues. It might also be difficult to drill, especially if the metal is badly warped.
Just my 2 cents.
Good, That tire shop is definitely quantity over quality or that guy just don’t care.
Well Christmas is around the corner you could get him one or both of these books: https://www.amazon.com/How-Everything-Dummies-Gary-Hedstrom/dp/0764572091/ref=asc_df_0764572091/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312132076760&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16997747828853013831&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&...
I bought a giant ass fluid evacuator for my transmission fluid flush, and, uh, it works fine to do brake fluids really quickly. Just attach, crank up the suction, and keep the brake fluid from running out. It's actually pretty crazy. It would probably help suction out any of the garbage running through the pipes opposed. Not sure if that's better than pumping the brakes.
https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-7201-Fluid-Evacuator-Plus/dp/B0002SR7TC
If you think jump starting anything more than a lawnmower with 6 gauge aluminum wire jumper cables is a good idea; you’re going to start a fire. These fucks will get so hot with the amp draw of trying to start anything more than a smart car for more than 10s. 6ga aluminum wire is rated to 50 amps max. The average compact car battery is 600 amps. You really think those are smart to use? A good set of 800a jumper cables that you still can’t use on a diesel should be around 1ga copper and yeah. They will set you back close to $100.
Buy those $15 jumper cables rated to 50 amps and try to jumpstart a smart car starter that draws 75 amps. I hope they aren’t resting on anything plastic when they get so hot they melt through whatever they’re touching.
You did literally no research, picked the cheapest option you could find to prove my point invalid. Your cheapest option is a literal fire hazard. Don’t try to educate me; educate yourself.
I would use something like this https://smile.amazon.com/Tshya-Sanding-Buffing-Variety-Attachment/dp/B09578NH2W/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=sanding+pads+for+drill&qid=1670697024&sprefix=sanding+pad%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExSjdKT1I5SjBTVFozJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzczNTQ2M05OS05ZSU5EMURLSSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMjAwMjg0MjlNSEdaRE1YUlRDMSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU= on the rim then paint them as far as the leak a tire shop should be able to fix that
Tools in this case would refer to the diagnostic tools used to track down the issue. They didn't just open up the hood and install a zip tie.
FYI: While it's obvious they didn't use one here there are actual zip tie tools example.
I'm using Bosch cobalt.
Hey OP, found an amazon listing for an almost identical one. 100% a cock ring. https://www.amazon.com/Bantie-Vibrating-Vibrator-Powerful-Erections/dp/B07VS12FGT/
No it’s this but of course this one won’t ship to Canada
Testeronics 24 in 1 Heavy Duty Electrical Back Probe Kit | 4 PCS Extended Back Probe Wires | 20 PCS Alligator Clip to Back Probe Needle
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08NWR7K51/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_2X5DGHFYEVVJRDV2YV3C_0
I just googled backprobe pin with alligator clip. I wonder why you ask if you already knew what it was called. https://www.amazon.com/Testeronics-Electrical-Extended-Alligator-Needle/dp/B08NWR7K51/ref=asc_df_B08NWR7K51/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=477379495345&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=9477416144083110562&hvpone=&hvptwo=&...
It’s worth getting a funnel like this to make burping the system an absolute breeze, if you choose to do it yourself.
Maybe while there was still some square sides on it, but looks pretty round to me now! These stud extractors work wonders!
Looks like this may be what you're talking about:
https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-299175-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Temperature/dp/B00B74AB5C
Though this one only goes up to 2400F. That might be high enough though.
I use this stuff Called CRC battery cleaner
And then I use this metal terminal post cleaners
You can get both of these from auto-zone or most local hardware stores
Remove the clamps and clean (wire brush or sandpaper or screw driver or knife) and protect with battery corrosion preventative grease. You can buy this grease at any auto store. I bought mine 20 years ago and still use it. But here is a nice set on amazon for $4:
I use the NEXPOW Car Jump Starter, 1500A Peak 12800mAh Battery Starter Q10S & the Mchoi Car Jump Starter Case Compatible with NEXPOW Jump Starter Q10S. It's the perfect combination - don't store the jump box in your car, the heat/cold will kill the battery. The case has a handle so you can hang it on your front door handle & carry it to the car you're driving as needed.
I have this and it's honestly great. 100w in and out from usb-c (with a 3rd party cable)
I've used it to pump my tires (using an external pump)
And the best part is that it doesn't use pouch style batteries. those usually puff as they get old.
Autozone can tell you the codes, and so can something like this + an app on your phone/tablet. I use an app called torque lite, but there are others.
OP,
get one of these while your trying to figure out what the issue is :
Ok, so I’m not a professional mechanic but I know enough to get me into trouble… I’m working on my dads 2006 Subaru Forester X 2.5L (118,xxx miles) It overheated on him one day and upon inspection the top of the radiator blew, at least what he said. We changed the radiator to a new one from oreillys, it was slightly different I’ll admit, it had another nipple for overflow near the radiator cap but we plugged it and it holds. Problem is the car still overheats. We took it to a local mechanic shop and he changed the thermostat but said “it might be the heads (head gaskets)” charged us $100 for diagnostic and changed thermostat.
I purchased THIS BLOCK TESTER and the blue fluid did not change color when we used the tester. I scanned the car, shows P0483, cooling fan rationality check, checked the fans and they work.
So the radiator is new, the cooling fans work, the thermostat is new, could it be water pump? How could I test the water pump if it’s timing belt driven? That’s the last thing I can think of.
Most likely no besides replace it unless it is new and under warranty. You can try contacting the manufacturer. Thats part of a dash kit used for aftermarket radios.
BG’s engine flush works amazing! Personal experience. But if yours is smoking out the tailpipe it may be gone. Kit here
You just need something like this and each side is probably attached with a 10mm bolt
I have used a Bluetooth OBD2 reader similar to this one for about 10 years now. It interfaces with my Android phone using the Torque Lite app, which is free and probably all you need for now. If you're on an iPhone, you'll need to look into what devices are iOS compatible.
Devices like this are not magic. The codes give you a place to start Googling, and it might be a decent entry to learning more about how your vehicle your vehicle works, and eventually working on it yourself if you're interested in doing so. But any codes you clear will just come back unless you fix the underlying problem: it's a diagnostic tool, not a repair tool.
If you don't know anything about cars, getting a card reader by itself won't be terribly helpful. I'd try to find a reputable local independent mechanic to look at the car for you. Ask questions, pay cheerfully, and build a relationship with the shop, and chances are they'll treat you right.
Asked around a few mechanics and the one product they told me to even consider trying is some of this: https://www.amazon.com/ATP-AT-205-Re-Seal-Stops-Bottle/dp/B000NVW1LM They say it is the only product that can slow a leak in an engine. Would this be worth a try or is it a waste of money? They also said to run conventional oil (even though I live in the midwest and our winters here can get to below -30F). Will be sure to check the oil weekly.
Use a "Mechanic's claw", or just leave it there.
https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Mechanics-Claw-Pick-up-Retractable/dp/B01LYTUVQO
Get cheap replacements off Amazon. I got a couple sets for my Accent & Sportage and they've held up well. I found these replacements under $200 for the pair & you've got a choice of chrome or black. They're basically all made in the same factory in China anyway.
Literally google it. There is a proper procedure to aim headlights which goes for any car.
There's also a tool made for this. It's required in eastern Canada for a shop to be a legal motor vehicle inspection station. and someone replied that it's also required in other countries as well. The manual that comes with them will tell you that you aim the drivers headlight lower than the passenger side one.
https://www.amazon.ca/Symtech-1010000-Headlight-Alignment-System/dp/B000I191Y2
Obviously you didn't read my last whole comment either, some vehicles come with headlight alignment not set properly from the factory, and they can be a bit out of whack, but you ALWAYS aim the drivers headlight lower than the passenger one. Next time I have my provinces motor vehicle inspection handbook in my hand, I'll take pictures of it and send it to you. I literally do this shit for a living. I have my inspection license, they don't just hand them out to everyone
Go for it. I like Bosch ESI6-32N Brake Fluid. I use a Speedibleed, it's great for a one person job.
I recommend this DB Electrical starter - I put one on my '09 Accent & it has performed flawlessly. On sale right now for 20% off.
I searched the part number and found it on Amzon - MT-OBD Live Tracker. aka MasTrack OBD GPS tracker.
They also sell subscription service so maybe they can provide a clue , who this was registered for?
https://www.amazon.com/MasTrack-MT-OBD-Vehicle-Tracker-Diagnostics/dp/B006VHF9TI
Just did the same job last weekend using Milwaukee high torque impact wrench with the weighted socket. Bolt came off in 2 seconds. The Milwaukee has 1400 ft/lb of torque and Makita's high torque has 1180 ft/lb. If you don't have the high torque model it might not be enough. And you definitely need the weighted socket.
Using a breaker bar will require a tool to hold the crank pulley, which you will need anyway when you tighten the bolt when you put everything back together. The set below is what I used and it works well. Unless you have a lift, I don't see how you can have enough leverage using jack stands.
If you don't have the high torque impact wrench, you might try the start bump method. Look up youtube videos on how it's done. Good luck.
Formula 2 Skin Care Cream - I've been using this stuff for two decades. It's expensive but lasts a long time and is awesome. I get a year out of a jar, so it's about 2 bucks a month.
The coolant elbows that run from the power steering(?) bracket to the block are a super common failure. They’re plastic and extremely brittle. If you haven’t already, purchase aftermarket metal replacements (such as these)[https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-47065HP-Elbow-Type-Heater/dp/B00A1A6PT4]
Get yourself this air wedge. Put it between the top corner of the door. It will pry it open enough to use a hook to pull the handle or lift the lock. https://www.amazon.ca/AMOSTBY-Professional-Automotive-Essential-Grabber/dp/B09NY1B7QN/ref=asc_df_B09NY1B7QN/?tag=googlemobshop-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=579061459392&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1262236338003016679&hvpone=&hvptw...
So my personal preference for a cheap and cheerful, tuck it into your glovebox code reader is a BT ELM327 knockoff and an app called torque pro on my phone.
The BAFX is my go to ELM327 knockoff, I haven't had nearly the problems with it that I have had/seen others complain about with others:
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Wireless-Bluetooth-Diagnostic/dp/B005NLQAHS/
An ELM327 and torque pro (or other apps, if you prefer) will get you the performance of a couple hundred dollar scanner for 20-40 bucks.
That being said, I finally bit the bullet and bought myself a 2k USD Bosch ADS 525X, and they'll have to pry it out of my cold dead hands.
I'm not trying to be the safety police but you should always use jack stands I just bought some for my 4runner the ones I had weren't tall enough. I had the wheel of a jack come off one time and the jack tipped. I had already put the wheel back on. Here is a link to the stands I got if you are interested https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002E1AYKY/ref=dp\_iou\_view\_item?ie=UTF8&th=1
You can use this to test the cells of the battery
When I went to the interstate battery shop this is what they used to test the interstate battery that was installed in my truck
Autozone used their diagnostic device and read bad battery. Interstate used the device I linked and my battery was fine. Turns out the connection came lose
Could see you DIY this without too much trouble. Exhaust bolts at the flange might be the hardest part.
Looks like the back end is a u bolt slip joint. Might be a PITA but yanking it out is possible. I'd say an afternoon under the car and you'd be back up and running
The pic they sent doesn't do anything to support the service they're recommending. They should have sent you a pic of a brake fluid test strip like these for example. Just based on that, I doubt they actually tested your brake fluid, they're just hoping you give them money. They're just throwing shit at a wall to see what sticks.
I'd show back, ask to see your car, and then enjoy the look of horror on the service advisors face when you whip out your own bottle of test strips and check it yourself. Then ask him how they determined that it needed service... Ask him what kind of test they use, and ask him to demo it for you so that you can see if maybe theirs is more sensitive... I would very much enjoy politely backing him into a corner where he has no choice but to admit they recommended an unneeded service.
Another comment already suggested, but get yourself one of these https://www.amazon.com/Diagnostic-Hydraulic-Moisture-Analyzer-Indicators/dp/B08NH6FLXL/
With that, a AAA battery and a piece of paper towel you can safely control your brake fluid yourself and know when you need to replace it.
Consider getting an OBDII so you can read the codes and know what the issue is when you're talking to shops about it. You can get a basic low end one for under $20 on Amazon. Usually just plugs in somewhere under the dash, and it'll tell you what's wrong that caused the lights to go on.
Here's one for $16:
Do a little googling about whatever it reads out to get an idea of what's going on. Maybe watch a couple YouTube videos on how the repair is done, so you'll be familiar with whatever the shops are talking about when they explain what they want to do. For $20, you'll be able to speak a lot more intelligently with the people giving you quotes, as well as with people here. The more you know, the lower your odds of getting taken for a ride.
The cheap ones are not the same quality, but they clip the parts together until next time.
Honda likes to use multiple sizes on the same part. Look up the OEM part numbers, Google them and find the size. The diameter is most important in most cases. Then buy a bag of 25, 50, or 100 of each size online. There are a couple that I have short and long, but for most cases one length is good enough.
And use the correct pliers to remove them. these are game changers (first hit, may be better brands). I have a straight set that works for 98% of clips and an angled pair for when it doesn’t.
I always use Devcon Steel Epoxy when I fix car parts. https://www.amazon.com/Devcon-52345-Plastic-Steel-Epoxy/dp/B000KKMXN2 shows its out of stock for 1 pc, bit they have a pack of 12... check out other stores instead, you don't need that much.
I don't know. (I'm just a DIYer, not a professional mechanic.)
As a temporary fix, I would maybe install something like this, to make it easier to disconnect your battery to prevent the drain, so you can start the car in the morning:
1) Put an open end wrench of the correct size on the hex nut at the base of the knob.
2) Put a strap wrench around the knob itself.
3) Apply force in the appropriate direction to cause a torque that unscrews the knob.
4) Profit!
Here is a link to a cheapo strap wrench on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Multifunctional-Mechanics-Adjustable-Wrenches-2pcs/dp/B08R37L1ZM/ref=psdc_3021459011_t3_B00K92810A
If you don't have a strap wrench, can't get one locally, and can't wait to order one, you might try to wrap a leather belt around it and twist the belt light then turn the wrench while holding the belt. Or put the knob in a vise with the leather to give you grip without damaging the knob.
Probably..yes.....taking some out and adding lubegard platinum can only help it shift better and last longer...
my recommendation is to get some impact sockets in a set and get a nice ratchet. 120 tooth gear wrench has served me well
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078KFWYKT
https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-81215P-Polish-Teardrop-Ratchet/dp/B00BTEXQP2
Here's the device you need to program the key:
If you want an English instructional video, just check out Tom's Key company - he has instructions for this same device, or you can rent from him but it'll cost a bit more and you'd have to return it.
The Harbor Freight one is ok, but every pro mechanic I know has one or more of these.
Just looks like the inspection plug on the bellhousing fell out. It shouldn't be causing you any real noise.
Its just a rubber plug https://www.amazon.com/Ford-E9TZ-7N171-A-PLUG/dp/B000O0R2QG (may not be the correct one)
I would rather get a hand pump than rely on a cheap integrated mattress pump and a cheap inverter.
But to answer the question, cannot say for sure because the mattres listing doesnt say what wattage the pump is.
If it is under 200W, then it will work, assuming your cig socket has atleast 20A. If the fuse is smaller then you need to connect it directly to the battery https://www.amazon.com/SCCKE-Cigarette-Alligator-Crocodile-Connector/dp/B07JB4SVY8
It's the ignition switch, no question. Get some steel spring clips and put your key(s) on them & unclip before using in the ignition. It will alleviate the weight problem which undoubtedly caused this problem in the first place. I do this with all of my vehicle keys because I've had to replace an ignition switch & it's no fun.
You really, really want this one specifically when you make that purchase.
It works on regular pipes (duh, it's a pipe wrench), but it is absolutely perfect for automotive use.
I'm kind of mad at myself for not having discovered it far earlier.
I’ve broken a the white ceramic part of the spark plug off in a 5.3 trying to remove it and inspect the cylinders (hadn’t been started in a while). It can be very easy to damage the spark plug if not careful or using a spark plug socket tool. I’d recommend getting a spark plug tool, you’ll probably use it more than you think and they make life MUCH easier if the misfire cylinder is in the back near the firewall/cabin. Here’s a good one for GM 5.3s: GEARWRENCH 3/8" Drive 6 Pt. 5/8"... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014ZVSVK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Is there a check engine light? If you have a scan tool it would be worth seeing if the code will identify the misfiring cylinder.
An easy way to diagnose the misfire is while the engine is running unplug the coil packs one at a time (trying to disconnect the spark plug wires while running will shock you), and see if the engine begins running differently. If you unplug a coil pack and nothing changes, it’s likely that plug wire or spark plug, and can work towards further diagnosis of that wire or plug.
If you remove the spark plugs, inspect the tip for fouling or heavy carbon (there are spark plug images of what it should be looking like) and ceramic parts for cracks. During installation they only need to be tightened to 11-13 ft lbs of torque, which is not a lot and if overtightened can damage the engine and/or spark plug. Torque wrenches can be had fairly cheap at harbor freight, and while most would say the cheap ones aren’t very accurate, with this sort of thing you just need to be close.
Looks like a transmission interlock like this.
If your car is able to shift into gear still, its only job might have been to prevent shifting out of park while not on the brakes.
OK OP, looks like you're out of the woods.
But know that there is literally a tool for this problem.
I had a cylinder 4 misfire in my 4 runner. I replaced all plugs and coils compression test was the same as all other cylinders I swapped fuel injectors only to keep getting same result then I got a block test kit turns out bag head gasket this is what I used
Steelman Wheel Hub and Rotor Polishing Kit, Removes Rust, Power Tool Compatible, Nylon Polishing Pads
https://www.amazon.com/STEELMAN-99905-Wheel-Hub-Polishing/dp/B00KDD3WBI?th=1
This has a hole in the center to go over the wheel stud and clean the entire surfcae
Wow. Love the car. First question I have is what kind of safety glass is he running in the windows, and what about rapid egress in case of accident or emergency. But I digress...
His unit is a RenCool AC compressor, with a power draw of 100amps. It was designed for Industrial and mining equipment. For a simplistic approach, you can look at this unit from Amazon. It's draw is max 45 amps. It might be fun just to do it. If you put an amp meter on your car and see what kind of amp draw you're getting from normal operations, it'll give you an idea of how much more room you'll need. Can't guarantee it'll work, but it actually looks doable, if not energy efficient.