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What about a replacement floor pan from somewhere like Summit Racing , cut out the bad stuff, clean what’s left and drop in the pan with some 3M Panel Adhesive. No welding required, just some grinding to smooth out the extra adhesive bead. Our mechanic at work did this with our old Chev 1500 parts running truck about 10 years ago and it’s still holding up well. I can try and get some photos if you’d like.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08745K56G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They also sell just the clear coat wipes as well if you don't need the entire kit and just wet sand what you have. I did it about 7-8 months ago and they still look as good as the day I did them. Done it to 3 vehicles already.
Ospho 605 Metal Treatment https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C02CDG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_TQ97HNQPGHDJGHSY68TM
Brush some of this on, it will slow it down by alot and it’s super cheap
Wear gloves and DO NOT get this in your eyes/mouth
I didn’t think they would be this hard to find, it’s essentially just a wire seal, but I found them on Amazon - Automotive Connectors LOOSE CABLE SEAL BLUE (50 pieces) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LWKMYL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_Uiv1FbN3M6EQP
Dude I'm really sorry I can't imagine having this problem, I wear a respirator every day and a medium soft mask works great for me. There MUST be a solution to this problem, can you maybe post some pics of the masks on your face? After shaving and trying multiple styles I can't wrap my head around why they wouldn't seal! This is the one I use https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MCUT86/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_w6frFb1ZPZVDQ But ive used the regular gray 3m ones as well with good results.
But to answer your question, try some dust control spray in a weed sprayer.
Edit: also, obviously make sure the car is blown off good before dragging plastic through all the dust on the car. When wiping it down, try wiping 18” or so of plastic around the panel as well. I like to keep old tack rags in the booth for tacking the hose, my arm that will be stretching over the panel, possibly my chest and my PAPR before I clear.
Edit: and make sure you have slight positive pressure in the booth so you’re not sucking dirt in from the shop.
I idiotically put a self-inflicted small ding in my tailgate. It's somewhat bowl shaped around the edge, but sharpish at the very center. About fine sized. I can get to the back of the panel and an willing to assume some risk - is it achievable to tap it out with a kit?
I've read a lot of stuff about phosphoric acid for situations where there's a lot of pitting. You apply it with a brush over the pitted area, and the acid will convert the rust and prevent it from spreading any further. I picked up a bottle of Opsho from my local Ace Hardware for like $15, and so far it's been doing what's advertised. Pitted areas turn black, which means the rust has been converted. I just haven't given it a good test of time to know if's my go-to solution. Just another option, maybe someone else has feedback on it. I used it for the first time on a few areas of an RV with pretty thin gauge metal. I was worried that if I kept grinding, I wouldn't have any metal left to grind.
Bondo is owned by 3M but 3M does produce filler made under the 3M brand that in my experience is far superior.
3M Platinum Plus Filler, 01131, 1 gal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005RNEYAM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_NTTSAEY0NDDDX8KXTCAP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 this is the product we typically use at my shop.
I'm an amateur but have removed so many spot welds redoing my CJ7. I use a spot weld remover bit like this if I need to save the panel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087FS9PR8/. You can get them at Harbor Freight as well.
If I don't need to save one side of the panel, I use one of these https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-x-18-in-professional-belt-air-sander-64932.html and a 60 grit belt. The 36 grit wears too quickly.
The air mini belt sander is way faster and is one of my favorite tools.
We have a few on amazon: This one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01A89CIHU includes DVD's, which is beyond helpful (4 hours of content) and you can check out some of our other sets as well via our seller account https://www.amazon.com/SAI/b/ref=bl_dp_s_web_8327858011?ie=UTF8&node=8327858011&field-lbr_brands_browse-bin=SAI
Good advice. This happened to me over two years ago. I used 3M double sided automotive tape and it hasnt come loose yet.
$8 on Amazon
I assume you're talking about these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P6WO7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_btf_t1_kUBrFb7YYE7NQ
If you want to try wiggle wire ( or any other tool for that matter ) just buy it and start using it. Once other employees see what it can do they will all use it.
I use The Maxi DF-505 with this clamp H & S Auto Shot 1080 Stud Puller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014DDGRG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_gIArFb4J72GDP This two tools have made my life and work so much easier and efficient.
It just came like an hr ago. I filled it with my other brand wax & grease remover and pumped it up. Leaving it sit for now to verify. If it goes south I'll give ya a heads up, otherwise no news is good news.
fwiw to you, this is the one that did not like my solvents (now my water base sprayer): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0749H94Z1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_n6nfFbS78PJV9
I used Sonax Fallout cleaner. Worked amazing on the pearlescent bmw white. Biggest suggestion is to make 100% sure to clean the are after. It’ll leave a sticker purple residue. Noticed some different Americans ones but just speaking on personal experiences.
I'd try a low grit or firm scuff pad with a type of oil as surface lubricant. If you have a drill these would work wonders. That rust looks fairly weak and the oil should help protect the surface until painting it. Remember to clean it thourghly off with something like brake clean when ready to paint. Use a high quality primer/sealer as well to prevent any oxidization after painting. Nothing worse then a paint job being ruined after 5-10 years due to poor preparation.
Thanks all, lot of good suggestions here. What I've learned:
​
- Don't use a damn blow torch
- Paint, properly, is a solid solutions
- They make restoration/dye products
​
Conclusion, I'm going to try Malco: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07PXTQT53?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
We use these to mark collision damage at our shop. AutoWriter
Im removing ONLY the bottom metal panel and spraying that. The bottom isnt very flat, so i would need some kind of shrink wrap style vinyl for this to work, and then I'd need to cut holes for rubber feet, vents, etc.
Its these right?
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40071582/
https://www.amazon.com/SEM-39793-Heavy-Texture-Guard/dp/B00397B5DC
Do I need to sand and prime first? Its just plain aluminum. Color is gunmetal, so it must be some kind of finish.
Had some extra wrapping vinyl at work and made an attempt at wrapping them. They look good, but they are starting to peel because I don't wrap so I created too much tension. I just need to paint them properly and be done with it.
​
Is this a 4 layer or 3 layer project? Some places I'm reading I need an adhesion promoter first, then primer, then base coat, then clear coat. Others suggest products like this that the promoter and primer is one layer, then base coat and clear coat.
​
For the base coat, I got a custom 1K rattle can from a local auto paint supply store and got me a can of SprayMax 2K for the clear. I'm just unclear of the first layer(s), and want to make sure it's done right as this is a high contact area and has horizontal surfaces.
It's unlikely you'd find asbestos on a Toyota manufactured in 2000.
There were some bans in the late 70's and 1989, but they weren't complete and it mostly boils down to a ban on new uses for asbestos created after 1989. Uses for asbestos prior to 1989 are so varied that it covers a lot of stuff used in automotive applications.
However, most manufacturers don't want the liability of asbestos in their products, and for the most part it'd be very rare to see it used in consumer products in the states.
The EPA didn't ban the use of asbestos in adhesives and sealants until 2019(among other things List of uses banned in 2019)
Typically outside of special uses in industrial applications you'll find it in parts sourced from china(think those cheap gaskets or brake pads you bought from a brand with a procedurally generated name) Example from Amazon: Turbo Drain Adapter The gasket in the image has chrysotile fibers sticking out of the cut edges.
I've found asbestos in several new parts bought from amazon/ebay, but never from reputable brands. The most egregious was an exhaust manifold gasket that came with a turbo that was nearly 100% chrysotile sandwiched between perforated steel sheets.
It’s cheaper than using the wrong tool and fucking up.
I guess $10-30 is the same as $100 as well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ZNGPY8G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Won’t 100% eliminate spreading because you cannot stop it from both sides of the panel without a proper repair but will absolutely slow it down.
https://www.amazon.com/1Pk-Perfect-Buffing-Polishing-Compound/dp/B0082LK8K6 I could only find the kit with all three but the one with the white tip is probably what he used
I'm pretty sure what you linked is the same thing just different packaging
Ok! Thank you for suggesting it!
Something like thisthing?
I am guessing for removal of all kind of bolts in tight spots, etc. Is 3/8 most common size for sockets?
you might be able to get away with using a small PPF (Paint Protection Film) strip in that area, PPF tends to cover/fill small scratches and will prevent future scratches. something like this and just cut to fit. if it doesn't do what you want, it's under $10
One of the common leak points is also the trunk seal. The weld/stamping overlap in the top left and right corners can cause leaking. Majority of leaks with that generation of civic are from there. Only thing to fix it is by take the seal off in the area, squeeze the rubber together (metal wiring inside) and press it back down onto the lip. Then checking the seal it's not puckered. If it is, just use your fingers to flex the seal to the side, it will unpucker and press down with your thumbs.
Plus that grey stuff is sound dampening, can't remember the correct name. Just leave it. For warranty claim, they'll have scrap it off will only compromise the metal since they'll scrape it to metal. 3m carries a sound dampening pad if you really want to add it. https://www.amazon.ca/3M-08840-Sound-Deadening-1-pad/dp/B005RNGRMU
Pb blaster doesn't remove rust, it just lubricates. Rust swells as it forms, making the inside smaller. So you need to remove the swelled rust. Some random ideas: needle scaler, dremel with carbide burr or sanding wheel to grind away that chuck on the top, along the same lines you can get small belt sanders that take a loop about an inch wide that can sand inside recesses like that. I've never used this model but it popped up on amazon when I searched: https://www.amazon.ca/WEN-6307-Variable-Detailing-Sander/dp/B072Q2FTLY/
Yep!
Rivet nut. I used this one one my dodge ram 1500: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HRK64QQ I've since sold this vehicle, and I don't recall what size rivet it used.
I have the same one. It's awesome, I can drop it down to talk to someone or sip my beer/coffee in the garage.
https://www.amazon.com/Off-Road-Custom-1987-2006-Wrangler-Utility/dp/B0754PGNQ6
Wrong year very similar style but your mounting brackets may be homemade.. Look cheap so may be better off finding another brand they like. I've seen em under $200 a pair lol
I used the 3m heavy-bodied sealer for my '70 Barracuda restoration
Absolutely correct - 2K Spray Max is quite decent, and certainly the BEST clear you can get if you have to go with rattle cans.
Super Concrete Dissolver 22oz Foam Spray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073XTVGCK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JWA5XK1Z95GE5RGFNS69?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have used this stuff with good results. Use on a cool panel out of direct sunlight.
Sand the paint an re clear, if you use anything other than 2k clear it will fade and dull quickly
Spray Max 2K High Gloss Finish Clear Coat Spray Paint | Car Parts and Repair Refinishing Clear Coat for Permanent Sealing of Coated Surfaces | 3680061 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0043B7UQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NBS4MPBYX1VQGT5ZA153?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
TOYOTA Touch Up Paint 1F7 Classic Silver Metallic Genuine Scion/Lexus https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0060BTWZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GA6XWMF1P234T8PH6318 That’s all you need and just touch in the spots to make them less noticeable
It’s $68 on amazon
3M Platinum Plus Filler 01131, Lightweight, Stain Free, Tack Free, Quick Application, 1 gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005RNEYAM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FVWPQCK9JTV3TETR645T?psc=1
If it were me I’d just drill a hole slightly smaller than a carriage bolt and press this style in. Just make sure you use a hand wrench to loosen so you don’t strip it out during removal. I’ve also had luck coating the “grip” part of the bolt in some super glue.
This isn’t the size you’ll need but just my preference on style.
> sealer primer
Thank you for the response. Appearance wise, I do not mind if it doesn't look appealing as it just needs to hold up and last without rusting through and compromising the structural integrity of the vehicle. I am not planning to keep the car forever but plan to drive it until it falls apart as I currently have 96k miles on it already. I am not sure if the paint job is worth $9,000 to get it fixed up as I could trade it in for a down payment for a new vehicle.
I just had a few questions:
- Do I just have to pick away the rust bubbles only or do I have to pick away surrounding areas around the rust bubbles as well?
- Would I be able to just remove the rust using one of these fiberglass pens and then fill in the gap using the touch up paint afterwards without any issues or would I have to apply a layer of clear coat as well? (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FN8H52/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A2Q1LRYTXHYQ2K&psc=1)
I was trying to lookup similar threads to mine but it seems like most of the rust is either severe to the point of having to apply body filler and other types of materials or
Clean Sheets - CLN-CS100 Superior Mixing Pad (12x12) - 100 Disposable Sheets FOR Toughest Job, Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AZA1XVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JWJT4AYK9E5EAENE0DFF?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
These are pretty cheap and may save some headaches for next time
U-Pol Products 7061 Stronghold Body Filler for Plastic - 600ml Tin https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00397NQN4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1615V83Z8VQ7QV3RBTAN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It’s expensive for the amount you are going to need but this stuff works well.
I use this one w/ charcoal filters. Works quite well for a ton of things around the shop. Not likely the best for frequent painting though. Make sure it fits snug.
There should be drainage holes on the back side. You will use cavity wax with the long wand and get in the channel and hose it down.
3M Cavity Wax Plus, 08852, Self-Healing, Corrosion Protection, Non-Hardening/Chipping/Peeling/Cracking, 18 fl oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0741FHDPF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_28NN5KAKBGVSTY7CFZFC
3M Cavity Wax Plus Applicator Wand Kit, 08851, 360-Degree Nozzles, Corrosion Protection, Collision Repair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B4DFTXF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_YDJXS6APH98019558PJR
Generic 3M Applicator Wand Kit 08851 Bundled with One 18oz Can 3M Cavity Wax Plus 08852 Interior Corrosion Prevention Coating https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095XHZBDW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5DDE8CYNADB3SDTEA035
Yes inspect the back side of the quarter snd if it hasn’t started to rust you can soak it with this cavity wax.
YaeTek HVLP Gravity Feed Air Spray Gun 3 Nozzles 1.4mm 1.7mm 2.0mm, Professional Air Paint Kits with 600cc Cup for Car Primer, Surface Painting, Coatings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TDZ2N3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_E5QGRGCS2N6TCBHCKNE3
Here’s a link to the gun. Also have my eye on this gun NEIKO 31213A HVLP Gravity Feed Air Spray Paint Gun | 1.3 mm Nozzle Size | 600 cc | Air Gauge Regulator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Z7KODG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NNQKYG9C2VR1MPMTZJSW?psc=1
Honestly thought you meant the valve stem on the tire. Took me a while to de-confuse myself.
If you are feeling adventurous, amazon sells a set. Will eventually come in handy depending on how many speed bumps or oil changes you.
Those are for one of two attachment methods. Either heat staking or a push nut which is the most likely item. Like this but in the proper size to fit the pins. You can usually find assortments of them in better hardware stores and some parts stores.
Here's a link to one of the pens I'm talking about. You'll have to grab your paint code from the door jam and get one that's gonna match your cars color
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HE68NXE/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_39MTS7CK057N7GY449VX
Other guy said not to sand but I disagree. Get some 320 grit and just lightly sand into the damaged area and feather out the paint that meets it, avoid sanding the undamaged area. Clean well with some 3M scotch brite and scuff-it gel. Dry it. Then you should use a color matched paint pen and some of this. Let cure for a few days then buff it out.
If you don't at least prep your surface it'll be prone to delaminating and looking worse in the long-run. Do it right and watch a few videos first and it'll be the only time you have to do it. As long as you are patient and attentive it'll look better than just slapping a pen on it and calling it a day.
If you don't want to risk it that is fair, but I figure a project is good experience for anyone so worst case is that you screw it up and take it to a body shop like you have already considered.
no man ... no one is drilling holes anymore ... because then you have to weld the holes closed
you need to get one of these
https://www.amazon.com/Bestauto-Vehicle-Spotter-Welding-Multispot/dp/B07KLYXMD7/
Electric Spotter
you should use a slide hammer dent puller
look at this one... see the L and J shaped attachments .. thats what you need
https://www.amazon.com/XtremepowerUS-Puller-Hammer-Automotive-Carrying/dp/B00WJ2E9QS
Fluid writer pen with touch up paint.
Video from AMMO NYC https://youtu.be/Uz-zW-cLdUs?t=248s
Fluid writer amazon.com/dp/B084KWWSRB/
Touch Up Paint https://www.shopbmwusa.com/PRODUCT/3800/BMW-TOUCH---UP-PAINT-STICKS#
You can also prep the area with denatured alcohol (Goof-Off, not Goo-Gone)
its pretty beat up but I would pull those panels vs replacing them
its a relatively old car and shouldn't have any high strength steel in it so you can work on it easily
problem is the hourly rate to restore it
but if you are doing the work yourself i would get a spotter puller like this
https://www.amazon.com/QPKING-Vehicle-Spotter-Welding-Multi-spot/dp/B09CYSD4MW/
I wouldn't say thats the only tool you need but its one you will..
If you can mig weld tabs on it and then you could use a winch to pull it enough to keep pressure on it as you work the dents out with a hammer
takes some skill and some time but if it was mine and there wasn't previous repairs that are hiding lots of rust.. i would probably take a few weekends and work the dents out.
a body shop would use a frame puller and get it done in a few days
but I wouldn't replace those panels on my own car
More auto detail than auto body. That being said, someone with a good handle on pH can use more aggressive/acidic treatments to help get rid of that hard water damage. As for the grill and the bumper area, that's definitely interaction with probably the retaining bolts and the hard water.
This cleaner works really well, albeit I'd recommend to hire a professional detailer in your area to do the job: https://www.amazon.com/Chemical-Guys-SPI10816-Heavy-Remover/dp/B01N2G2NEJ
Okay here it is after market QAA fits 2015-2020 Ford F-150, 2017-2020 Ford F-250 & F-350 Super Duty 12 Piece Chrome ABS Plastic Door Handle Cover Kit, with Two Smart Key Access Points, NO Passenger Key Access DH55309 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0167G12J8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_SHW0WDS04ZRQW4RJF6SY
And this guy seems to have a good replacement video
Fwiw ice replaced my suburban door handle a couple times it’s a bit of a pain to get inside the door, but definitely possibly to do without paying the show $500
needs to be sanded and re cleared. you can do it yourself. buy a can of 2K clear.
well its up to you but the product I like if I buy off the shelf is
SEM 69504 Rust Mort
Its pretty expensive now $40 a quart so I make my own by buying Food Grade Phosphoric Acid and then diluting it with water about 4 water to 1 acid.. its the same stuff as in cokeacola but its 85% strength
This is not the supplier i use but i do get it off of amazon so 1 quart of this is $28 and it will make a gallon and a half of rust converter...
https://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Grade-Phosphoric-Remover-Clean/dp/B06Y1B82TG
so its much cheaper and you can mix it stronger if you want .. if you use it straight on that rusty wheel it would look like you sandblasted .. i have done that to small parts which i could put in a plastic container overnight.. seriously impressive eats the rust out of bolt threads and leaves them bare.
then you just paint over it because the black or gray is an oxide
anyway. .. you can do that if you are careful with a spray bottle and safety glasses .. and some rubber gloves.. its not extremely dangerous but you don't want to get it on your skin or in your eyes.
anyway
good luck
Would this possibly be a bit better? I just found this. It’s prepainted which would remove my chance of ruining it lol. And would only cost a bit more. bumper
Thats the nature of spray can clear coats. They dull a little. The best clear coat can i used that actually retains some gloss like oem is this brand...u can find in ur local automotive paint store. https://www.amazon.com/Spray-Refinishing-Permanent-Surfaces-3680061/dp/B0043B7UQY/ref=asc_df_B0043B7UQY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312087868266&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15637903197739532056&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvq...
Why not just buy something like this? https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/410789586208839/
If you get it for $2500, you'll be in it at least $5k after repairs and still have a car with a salvage title.
I was curious too, so I hit up Amazon. Probably not the best idea to order cheapos to try something new out, but I'm prepared to write this 10 bucks off to an experiment. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001223OF8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_35T57G3WFHQ6WWXNJ978?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Not in a financial position to go ordering Snap-On at the moment.
My guess it's an hour of labor which can be $75-150. Get yourself one of these tool kits and do it yourself.
take a picture of the cans maybe someone here can help
you can translate text in images using this website
https://translate.yandex.com/ocr?
there must be someone you know that can read the japanese for you
INSTALLBAY P60170 - Kent Spray Products - Kent Spray Acrysol 16 Ounce Each (INSTALLBAYP60170 ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00P5A0DBQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DVS4X52C2FEX3F8KES9F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'm pretty sure it's a solid color right?
Here's the product I'm considering using: https://smile.amazon.com/Flex-Shot-Rubber-Adhesive-Sealant/dp/B00IGHDNNK/ref=sr_1_10?crid=27PZI8NFPAN0M&dchild=1&keywords=flex%2Bseal&qid=1635103035&sprefix=flex%2Bseal%2Caps%2C140&sr=8-10&th=1
​
Thanks
Am I underestimating the strength of those studs and Suburu construction?
Here is the link to Amazon. Mostly 5 star reviews but no one seems to actually tow any real weight with it. I do need to upgrade to a 2" receiver because the trailer uses a 2 5/16" ball. It is not for weight reasons.
I am tempted to put the original 1 1/4 inch Suburu 1 1/4" receiver back on. It uses those studs but on each side has 2 each, 3/8" metric equivalent bolts going into the unibody rail but only one layer of sheet steel.
I think I should rebuild the Suburu Hitch receiver with a 2" receiver tube. Everything in line would be well under the rated DOT capacities.
Some touch-up pens have an abrasive tip on the end of them that is meant for scratching away small amounts of rust in a touch-up area.
You can try a new mirror.
Kool Vue Power Mirror compatible with Nissan Altima 13-18 Right and Left Side Manual Folding Heated W/Signal Light Sedan Paintable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C122W2J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_X7PEVFHV2MKBQGQPR9MY?psc=1
$97 for both or $53 for the one. Assuming they are electric. And job done right. And a sense of accomplishment from the DIY.
Thanks! Would something like this also work? Between the 3M pps and devilbiss dekups which one is better?
Just replaced one recently on the same vehicle. You have to access it from the inside of the rear panel, it’s a pain in the add. I believe three bolts hold it on. Have to remove the stuff in the “trunk” area and start pulling the plastic liner away. Have someone hold it out of the way long enough to swap it out. Otherwise do the magnet trick. It’s called gas door actuator
Fuel Gas Door Release Actuator 81590-2W000 For Santa Fe 2013-2018 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076HKW9FF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MRGWH0WW6GFG2HX10V02?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
if you are looking for something that might last 1-2 years then yes this will probably be ok... paint that does not have a hardener does not normally last very long
something like this would probably get you 4 years maybe depending on the weather in your area and if you wax it often
https://www.amazon.com/SprayMax-Glamour-Gloss-Aerosol-Clear/dp/B0082LJMC6
Buy some broad headed exploding rivets I’ve used them on plastic body panels and they work well. If the original Hole is not good enough drill a new hole if possible.
I recommend this one, don’t contaminate it and wash it off with water. Repaint with rustoleum and your good.
Henkel 553472 16OZ NAVAL JELLY, 16 Fluid Ounce, Fl Oz , Brown https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C016OC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_EP3PWEV31HZR7FS4NKQC
No that’s not it you want to go with this
Loctite 1381191 ADHESIVES_and_SEALANTS, 8 Ounces, Assorted https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C014ZI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DX98FG1W0BE93Y9FQCBN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Most auto parts stores carry it
Buy some rolls of masking tape from the shop. Peel off strips and stick it to your shirt then peel it off and apply to car and make a temp car bra. Sticking the tape your shirt pulls some of the adhesive off the tape so you don’t risk pulling the fresh paint from the surface when you remove the tape.
You don’t want to speed up curing time. Ever. On a restoration finish even ir cure lights are worth the risk.
You could try using a product like this but If it’s a high quality restoration finish I personally wouldn’t risk it if it’s still curing. XPEL TW4T20 Clear 4" x 20' Temporary Paint Protection Film (Tracwrap) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M5LEEB0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_KHHY167CP6SKN15RTNNC
Yep, they'll have good details. Having said that, as someone who likes a clean interior, I'd recommend:
- Get a spray bottle and fill it with diluted soapy water. Spray on microfiber cloths then wipe hard surfaces. Get some detailing brushes if you want to really get into cracks and crevices such as around trim.
- I follow up with 303 Protectant on a microfiber or detailing brush. Provides UV protection, isn't greasy, good compromise between matte and gloss. Lasts a good long while.
- Of course you need to vacuum. For a cloth interior you'll also find yourself needing some sort of cleaner. I also have cloth seats, and kids, and am constantly removing stains and water spots. I find CG products hit or miss, but the Lightning Fast cleaner works great and can be heavily diluted in another spray bottle. To really get cloth clean I find a vacuum extractor invaluable, but not everybody wants to invest in one.
You need something like this.
As a disclaimer, I do not share this tool or brand in any way (positively or negatively) and share it as an example only.
I think this the part. Let me on know if this is he right model. Front Lower Engine Cover Plate - Compatible with 2012-2015 Honda Civic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FF9QCQC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_9VG1FG3493Q9NNSP9PQE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You can buy a little handheld hopper fed sandblaster. They work great for stuff like this. I recommend this one, I have one it works great! https://www.amazon.com/SpeedBlaster-Gravity-Feed-Media-Blaster/dp/B000IHUQ5E/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?crid=25QJQWPVTN7I&dchild=1&keywords=handheld+sandblaster&qid=1630460314&sprefix=handheld+sand&sr=8-10
It probably won’t fix it completely if it’s bubbled but I used this stuff on my 1979 Honda cb400 called “wizards metal polish” it comes in a bandaid style aluminum tin. Looks like cotton candy and smells like cherries. Takes pits out of chrome but takes some serious elbow grease. wizards metal polish on Amazon
some people put steel pans on instead of bumpers but if you are driving on the road you really need bumpers.. i mean don't be a clown about it .. bumpers and seat belts serve for a reason.. to keep you alive.. and bumpers reduce damage to the rest of the vehicle... also jacking trucks up like that is also a clown move.. you result in a higher center of gravity and the truck is more likely to be unstable.. with those chrome wheels he isn't doing much off roading...
I understand people want things that look a specific way or sound a specific way even if they don't result in the best performance but honestly look for a better option if you can
Just advice from someone that has been there and seen a lot of it.
also while I am risking downvoting and trolling for introducing some sanity...
Straight Pipes won't increase your horse power very much
but what it will do is make your truck so loud that every time you try to sneak home at 2am the whole neighborhood is going to hear you... and you won't be dodging cops...
at the very least get a fricken cutout pipe.. manual ones cost like $35 or remote ones cost under $150
https://www.amazon.com/PQYRACING-Universal-Stainless-Electric-Wireless/dp/B07HF3DCX1
You might be able to get a little molding tape behind it and stick it down. The 3M stuff is awesome.
Either that or maybe you can repair the broken piece with an epoxy like pc-11 or JB weld.
It's a little sketchy but if you traded it in, that's exactly how they'd fix it for resale.
Sorry, it's Optimum No-Rinse. You can wash an entire vehicle with a gallon or two or water and some microfibers. A lot of detailers use it (or similar products) when they don't have access to a hose, but it's also great for personal use if you just have some road dust to get off. Fast and saves water, can be nice in the winter if you have a garage. It can also be used as a quick detailer, clay bar lube, and even used on interiors. Pretty nifty.
What the heck I just looked it up online and if I wasn't told of the product by someone I'd think it's the ultimate scam https://www.amazon.com/Headlight-Restoration-Polishing-Including-Anti-Scratch/dp/B08HVP8ZCD
Now that's trippy
The new dawn platinum dish foam soap. $6 at your local supermarket or Amazon. soap on amazon what I also use is pj1 professional contact cleaner. I'll spray my hands with contact cleaner use a rag to dry off. (it's very cold) then I'll use dawn and my hands from working on my bike are clean like you never touched it pj1 contact cleaner
Is this paint kit enough and clay bar kit enough? Looking to make it less noticeable, not perfect. Thanks!
if you are just shooting a panel then you can get an inline filter and that will be enough
https://www.amazon.com/TCP-Global-Disposable-Filters-Standard/dp/B0041E72B6
just keep the drain petcock valve cracked while you are running your compressor and it will drain most of the moisture and use an inline disposable filter
Partsam 2x Oval Clear Lens White Stop Turn Tail Backup Reverse Fog Lights Lamps Rubber Flush Mount 6" 24 LED for Truck Trailer Boat RV Waterproof https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017W81OPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_B0EE0NMB7F36M1BEHAQW
https://www.amazon.com/AUXMART-Universal-Bare-Roof-Mounted-Aluminum/dp/B00W300LG8. It was something like this… that car Exploded and the racks went along with it unfortunately but they worked great for Mejía y make sure to cover the metal part that “clings” to your car with some sort of thin foam to keep it from scratching. GL
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WUYG1E?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Something like that. It's hard on one side but flexible to mimic the curve. Always sand /////\\\ cross hatch patterns, don't sand ======= lines. Don't want to sand railroad tracks into it.
I bought that about a month ago, I'm guessing the pads included in it should suffice, at least the sponge. So I won't be doing the more intensive stuff by hand.
Also bought this
A month ago or so when I got the truck. That has an applicator pad.
Anyway, thanks for the tips! I got rid of the scratch remover and added the mcguire's stuff.