What are /r/CircuitBending's favorite Products & Services?

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Look at this series of articles on Hackaday:

http://hackaday.com/tag/logic-noise/

He has posted a lot of articles on easy/cheap oscillators and sequencers and stuff so go back a few pages to the beginning. I think he starts out with the Schmidt inverter squarewave oscillators like other other comment mentioned. Those are really irritating sounding by themselves (but fun), so luckily he gets into envelopes, vcos etc as well fairly quickly.

You have enough overhead at 4A on the original 18V supply that you could probably use a cheap boost converter (that can output 1.5A) (such as this one) to get you to 28V.

But I agree with other commenters, getting a proper power supply is ideal. There’s likely a reason they chose 28V. You might be able to get away with 24 or 30V.

Op this is the stuff ^

• You have to tie all the grounds together
• If you're going to power your keyboard with USB or PS2 (with a voltage regulator) you have to know the amperage draw of the keyboard. USB and PS2 specs have peripheral amperage ceilings, and if your keyboard draws more than this, you will blow them out and then your motherboard will need repairs.

With those things said, it looks like PS2 and AT are both 5V, so you can probably just power it with a simpler schematic. Or, a 10 dollar adaptor: https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Female-Din5-Keyboard/dp/B0016RTMQE

I use a cheap no-name $70 power supply (which is now < $60) and haven't had any issues. If you don't have any extreme needs I don't see why the budget ones would be a problem.

I just made sure to use fakespot and read some reviews before settling on one.

Amazon has a 90 day return policy which helps reduce the risk. I'd be more hesitant to buy one on ebay.

Please don't unnecessarily mod a nice digital piano. There's literally no need to add a USB-MIDI port to this when it already has MIDI.

Look, you can even get a Bluetooth MIDI adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-Wireless-MD-BT01-5-PIN-Adapter/dp/B01CFOHF6U/

Use a motor speed controller and you will have much better control of the motor and won’t burn up any more potentiometers.

I don’t know if Amazon is an option for you, but here are some that should work. Just check the dimensions to find one that will fit in the cassette housing.

Onyehn DC Motor PWM Speed Controller 3V 6V 12V 24V 35V Speed Control Switch Mini LED Dimmer 5A 90W(Pack of 6pcs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S8JX5SQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9KQJXAQ7M09ZH5SWWRKW

WayinTop 3pcs PWM Low Voltage Motor Speed Controller DC 1.8V 3V 5V 6V 12V 2A 1803BK 1803B Adjustable Driver Switch with Speed Control Knob (Pack of 3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08BJ4WQCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2CGHNEZV7TQXBA24KAM0

Plastic solder sucker is ok if the tip is silicone. But yeah, quality solder makes a difference.

Do you have a little pad with brass or steel wool on it, to clean the tip of your soldering iron? I find that makes a huge difference, the solder won’t stick or flow properly if the tip gets oxidized on the surface.

I have gotten in the habit of jamming the tip into the brass wool 3-4 times every time I pick up the soldering iron and it keeps it fresh and consistent every time.

Something like this: Soldering Tip Cleaner Soldering Iron Tip Cleaner Brass Tip Cleaner Kit and 6PCS Brass Ball Wire-type with 1PC Ball Shell Holder for Cleaning Solder Irons and Tips https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FX4V7PZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_1N39A8DDA63J8CEEW2WA

I've been buying this one and it's working for me. I really don't know how to pick solder but this one is fine 🤷. I've got the cheapo plastic sucker and it works for me but it takes a while to get the hang of.

https://www.amazon.com/SONEAK-Solder-Rosin-Electrical-Soldering/dp/B084RZF23H?pd_rd_w=3R0dF&amp;pf_rd_p=85da05e5-c593-4314-b5c1-e397081af052&amp;pf_rd_r=4SCDM9XRANDVEE9JXZBN&amp;pd_rd_r=465e4dc5-3d0f-475e-af1c-c2124148317e&amp;pd_rd_wg=jynHv&amp;p...

That's a fine way to go but it will make things more difficult for you too. I use standoffs for remounting circuit boards and other stuff. Your toolkit should a drill, Dremel, and craft knife. Those will help with cutting slots and squares, etc.

Those missing hex nuts will be a problem. There's really no way around it. Maybe you can find replacements at the hardware store?

https://www.amazon.com/iUniker-Raspberry-Installation-Standoff-Accessories/dp/B09PD2D5XB/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=HJYJRZ3CF8LQ&amp;keywords=Standoffs&amp;pd_rd_r=48482f2d-2c2a-42c9-9e25-38c2b18ad6d6&amp;pd_rd_w=CUw3k&amp;pd_rd_wg=YsLUl&amp;pf_rd_p...

You're on the right track. Black blobs are a wildcard, and really your only chance is to pick a spot, try everything, then switch spots & repeat. Potentiometer knobs of all values is something I wished I knew earlier on when exploring. You can find a set on Amazon for 20 bucks-ish.

Oh, I suspected this was an Arduino kit. On Amazon: ACEIRMC DIY Electronic 16 Music Sound Box DIY Kit Module Soldering Practice Learning Kits for Arduino (Blue). Super cheap, might buy one.

Yeah it was this one .... £8.99 at Amazon

Tobar Drum Calculator https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00GY1NZBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_8GBCB6J47049VPVC44HP

Pyschiceyeclix did a much more impressive job of bending it 4 years ago ... the original

There are books on circuit bending. This one's out of print, so why the ridiculous price, but you can find it on eBay: https://www.amazon.com/Circuit-Bending-Build-Alien-Instruments-ExtremeTech/dp/0764588877

I'm kind of a poser when it come to circuit bending TBH. It interests me, and I like playing with electronics, but I haven't actually done any bends yet.

You basically just touch different points with probes and see what happens. Make sure you're safe from electrocution, and have fun. Or find a tutorial for one specific piece of electronics and follow along before experimenting on your own.

One thing I'm excited to find out is what I could do with micro-controllers. Usually circuit benders just add a potentiometer to tweak the resistance on points, but micro-controllers could do reverb or whammy pedal-like effects by quickly adjusting voltage in a programmed pattern.

There's no telling how small the circuit board is in other mice, but this is the smallest mouse I could find: https://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Children-Portable-Cordless-Receiver/dp/B01EZZM5MG

The product description says 3.23*1.97*1.26inch, but the product image with rulers says it's slightly shorter and wider at 3.14 x 2.32 inches.

I think what I'd do is check Goodwill, just buy every cheap wireless mouse and take them apart. Even one with a bigger circuit board may be best because the way it's constructed allows you to clip off useless parts or break it into two boards that you can stack.

You should look into getting a resistor sub box/wheel.

I’ve got one really similar to this.

It makes it really easy to find the right order of magnitude for pots.

I’ve also found having a few logarithmic potentiometers around can be super nice for video bending

Mmm... To be honest I didn't look for tutorials. I found the keyboard and an incomplete set of the Elenco Snap Rover (https://www.amazon.ca/Elenco-SCROV-10-Snap-Circuits-Rover/dp/B000GG7XXK) in a thrift store (I paid $9 CAD in total) and thought that the yellow panel of the snap rover would be a good patchbay. The snap circuits are super convenient because you can still play with the components outside the device, but the snap circuits are very expensive! I am happy to go on more detail if you want!

I personally would recommend that you DON'T solder directly to the pins, especially if you are still working out the circuit. Instead use an IC socket to solder the wires to. This will allow you to replace the IC easily if you let the smoke out of it or break one of it's legs.

I haven't owned a reflow station, but with that budget for tinkering I'd consider getting a genuine hakko soldering station like this one:

https://smile.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M

Rework stations are useful, but if you have $100+ to spend and no specific use case for the rework component, I'd put it into an awesome soldering station. Rework stations are usually used for surface mount components (vs through hole), but you can do a lot of surface mount work with an iron and a fine tip as well.

Thanks! I've got a dremmel and multimeter that work great but my soldering iron could be replaced. So I've decided to buy a much nicer $90 soldering iron.

So I wanted to make my own little stand where I can turn the light on and off and control the brightness. I got these ( potentiometer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S69443J?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share And mosfet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BKX255D?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share) off amazon and used some simple wiring and small LEDs to make it work.

Right now it’s working. . . But the brightness barely dims. Any ideas what I am doing wrong and how to fix it?

The bracelets are like these, the wallwart i'd recommend looking up since i don't think i'm going to explain it well. But, it's basically a bunch of caps that go between the wall plug, and the device you're plugging in to give some resistance if you do cause a short. You can buy them, or build them im pretty sure. Again i'd do some research of your own, definitely not explaining it right lol