Note, the DRZ doesn't use phillips head screws, they are JIS screws. They're just different enough from phillips head that when you use a phillips head screw driver they are really prone to stripping the head. Especially if the screw is relatively snug. Investing in a set of JIS screwdrivers to work on the DRZ is really worth it.
Otherwise I've had really good luck using a manual impact driver (like this) with a phillips bit.
Trail Tech x2
I had one on my SM and wanted to pick one up for my XR but they dont make them anymore.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001V9XIBM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I used racetech springs front and rear. 6.00kg rear and the 0.52kg/mm fronts. I'll note I opted a little stiffer on the rear for luggage and added weight from motocamping trips.
I kept all factory valves, shocks, tubes, oils the same. The only thing I changed was the spring itself. Then play with the clickers after. Links below from amazon order history (3 years ago may be cheaper elsewhere now)
I bought this $16 dremel on amazon, then used blue painters tape to mask off the line I wanted to cut (took me a few tries to get the angle right). I cut the plastic with a cutoff wheel, sanded it with the sanding wheel, then finished it up by hand with some fine grit sandpaper.
Same... I ended up dropping my bike in the garage breaking a signal, and the taillight was already cracked so I went with a DRC Edge light... looks much better, easy enough to install.
That didn't include blinkers... but they are only another $20 or $30... i had to add resistors for the blinkers though otherwise they flashed too fast... I got the resistors off amazon, I think. https://www.amazon.ca/AMAZENAR-Resistor-Running-Blinker-Cancellor/dp/B015JHP5QC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1492819468&sr=8-3&keywords=led+resistor
Sorry about all of the Canadian pricing... I'm in Canada so those are the links I know.
I got this WPS Featherweight Lithium Battery HJT9B-FP-IL 89 bucks on amazon. People say to get a special charger to go with lithium batteries, so I got this one The battery way lighter. I do notice it a bit when riding, it flicks quicker, and the rear doesn't seem so sluggish. I mainly made the switch because I am tired of dealing with lead acid batteries bullshit.
Not op, but I was a newbie when it comes to carburetors but with the proper tools, (JIS screwdriver is a must) it isn't to bad. I used a JD jet kit from Amazon.
00-19 SUZUKI DRZ400S: JD Jetting Jet Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XTDN6C2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GHAaDbBB7E5N5
I ended up taking the entire carburetor out of the motorcycle mainly because of the POS JIS screws on the bottom. (yes even with the the proper screwdriver those JIS screws will cause you to curse like a sailor)
Seat concepts is worth the money but if you’re looking for a cheap temporary option I think there is a seat cover on Amazon for $20 that you can buckle/ tie under the seat and gives a nice bit of padding. Coleman MadDog GearComfort Ride Seat Protector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006JMK7N8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_K3VK39PBP5E4BEY4TPCM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I've used this bulb in 2 DRZ's and an XT250 with zero issues.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H29T81L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If the rubber boot gives you a problem you can cut it in half a the bottom, slip it over then zip tie it on.
Also.......
May just need a washer for this one but....
You should get this bolt kit. I promise you'll need something in there eventually. I have already. And I try to use OEM matching hardware on modifications.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZA3AFK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_LWJiFb1AV0WJN
Look for rubber strap mounted ones. Zip ties always work too and don’t scratch bars lol. The rubber strapped mirrors usually are for pedal bikes. Solo racer sells “supermoto mirrors” but are crazy overpriced. https://www.amazon.com/Zefal-95293-Spy-Bicycle-Mirror/dp/B000FY05PG is what I have. Work well and don’t scratch bars. Or do powermadd handguard mirrors- cheap and good looking
You are not the first, nor will you be the last. Those aren't Philips screws. They are JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard). If you try and use a regular Philips it will cam out and strip like you see here. Most of the screws on this bike that look like Philips are JIS, so either buy some JIS drivers online (they're cheap) or grind the tip of a Philips down a tad to help it stay seated.
As for what to do now, grab a big heavy hammer and a chisel. Pound a slot into the head of the screw on a slight angle, then use the hammer and chisel to spin it out. I've never had a stripped screw not come out this way. Also, if you don't already have one, buy an impact screwdriver. It is without a doubt one of the most useful tools a home mechanic working on older bikes can have.
$26.48 is pretty cheap for a set of levers. I got stock ones for $12 each, new. I would recommend these: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B09CPG1LGJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
also has a $20 off coupon. they have been working great for me and you can tune the clutch/brake point
JFG racing has a KTM LED headlight which looks great on DRZs, you can find it on Amazon in America I'm sure, but I bought mine from Amazon (Australia).
They do the job. The build quality is about what you’d expect for the price though. Some shoddy welds, misaligned pieces, etc. Fits the mounting points great though.
There’s also a DRZ 400 Companion app that you might consider downloading.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.silexgames.drz400companion&hl=en_US&gl=US
Anitgravity ATZ-7 Unfortunately I can't speak to its reliability as I've only had it a couple weeks, but I found good reviews and the built-in jump start is cool.
That'd be a sick setup for sure. Little out of my range for what I'm doing, but it's definitely an option.
I'm trying to figure out the best way to make the saddle bags I was given work. I found this on Amazon and it seemed like what I would need to give the bags a flat area to set against, but they look like they require a footpeg mount and my bike doesn't have them as far as I know.
All you need is something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B091N1X6CT/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Then fabricate some way to attach them at the end of the subframe, on some sort of curved plate or something of the sort.
I am using one of those strips on mine, on top of the license plate, but mine is a little further under the fender than OP's.
I would recommend this kit or one like it: https://www.amazon.com/Specbolt-Suzuki-Maintenance-Restoration-Fastener/dp/B007ZA3AFK/
Hardware store bolts aren't always the right way to go, and these kits will save you time in the future.
Get a skid plate
Aluminum Flatland Racing Skid... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B088NNZ5MM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This one is cheap AF.
uses oem mounting holes and bolts.
It's a little tricky to install but I promise it goes.
Consider drilling a hole for the oil plugs.
https://www.amazon.com/IMS-322141-Replacement-Petcock-Petcocks/dp/B00BQY27IM
​
Is this what you're referring to?
The rubber bit marks my boots lol. Also I just bought the brake and shift tips. Didn't realize it doesn't come with the lever. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08L18WV14/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_KX80MVY60Q4X4Q38CB23?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Why? a full lever is so cheap. Also, yours doesn't look broken.
Unfortunately it's sold out on Amazon but maybe It's available elsewhere.
Cargo Rack Luggage Carrier Utility Rear Tail Holder Black Powdercoat fits: 00-16 Suzuki DRZ400 - Immix Racing - 100-004-01-Black-a https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D3NRJYU/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_GG7DNYHJVEW74835K44A?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Have not seen a manufactured one.
But could easily make one off of a current
https://www.amazon.ca/Suzuki-DRZ400S-KLX400S-Rear-Luggage/dp/B01KTV99ME
Weld on a back support and viola. Probably get a welder to do it for 300 cad parts included.
Be like 500 cad total or something.
I think it's considered part of the wire harness for factory parts. Like mentioned by others, search "H4 socket" to get a replacement you can wire in.
Lock on grips are some that slide on with a tube and you use an Alan wrench to tighten them. They are used on most dirt bikes
Odi Emig V2 Lock-On Grips - 2 & 4-Stroke (Blue/White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C31JZ68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EREDSH23CQ5GNYSR4NBK
Yes .. but the trick is ..
The inside reflector lens has to be flipped to make it fit flush like that. I think I remember I had to trim it just a little. Careful, its brittle. Use a hot knife, file or Dremel not pinch cutting tools.
This also puts the notch in the reflector on the top for the tag light...which you'll notice aligned with the bottom of the red lens has a white spot underneath for the tag. It just makes your tag light dim...you could notch that out of the lens if you really want so the light comes through the white part better...I didn't bother, it's fine.
I used the same hardware from the bike and had to adjust the mounting holes a little.
You'll have to follow the wires back to where they simply unplug and fish them out that extension box thingy.
Then that metal tag bracket I flipped upsidedown to angle the tag up a bit.
The whole thing was pretty easy, I did it in a hotel room with the tool kit, my Gerber and a hotel kitchen knife.
Also... Get one of these .... totally worth it when the day comes.
250pc Specbolt Suzuki DRZ DR Four Stroke Bolt Kit for Maintenance & Restoration of DRZ400 Using OEM Spec Fastener DR-Z DR 70 100 110 125 200 250 350 400 650 DRZ SM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZA3AFK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_8KT5JAT3ZJWAWBS1A1B1
It’s coming. Just waiting for it to show up. Tusk Neoprene Seal Guards 44-50mm Fork Tube, Short Black for Honda CRF450X 2005-2009,2012-2017,2019-2022 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01099FN5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RAKSRXD3RBBE6FZDX9YT
Rear Tail Tidy License Plate... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08T23SRJQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
That's the one I got. Looks great and have had zero issues. Though the included blinkers are ugly and shitty so I'd replace them with..
https://slavensracing.com/shop/led-flat-mount-turn-signals-for-ktm-exc-hqv-fe-by-sicass/
^those are just the ones I have I'm sure other companies make similar products.
Yup, check the main fuse.
Connecting the two batteries like that would have definitely blown the fuse.
Then go to harbor freight...
Get a charger and a SAE connector pigtail.
So you can easily just plug the bike in for storage.
Also. Get in Amazon and order yourself a USB adapter For that sae connector.
Cause you can turn it off and it displays voltage.
And be sure to turn it off because it will drain your battery.
The headlight I'm not sure about, its been on my DRZ since I've owned it. (2nd owner). But the blinkers I got you! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WCGZH33/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_asin\_title\_o05\_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Treat it with this stuff
POR-15 Fuel Tank Sealer - 8 oz - Stops Rust, Corrosion, & Leaks | Seals Pinholes & Seams | Non-porous, Flexible Film | Resistant To All Fuels, Alcohols, & Additives https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B3HXCZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GWBR0MWQ19NQZX34EXHF
If you’re trying to be super cheap you might use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08N5S8YL7?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I got it so i can change a tube on the trail, not super secure but very portable.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WJWWQY/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_VWE19E9RWH4QZYX56VKV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Thats the fender I used. And for the mounts if you use the same light as I got i could make you some that are the same as mine otherwise I'd need to know the location of your light, how its mounted how close your numberplate will be and so on. If you wanna know more just PM me
Been running this one for awhile. Plugs in right behind the headlight….
You can purchase these lowering links on Amazon.
I took some perforated and slotted steel angle and built myself a mount to have two of these mounted 30 watts each combo flood and spot. They're easily 4x brighter than stock + I also put in a strobe circuit so it's high beam or strobe. Not for sale anymore on Amazon but I'm sure you could find something similar If you wanted to. Also of note idk how water proof they really were out of the box. I took it out of the box and took it apart and put a bead of clear silicone on every seam and they've been running string no leaks or fogging since spring 2019. MICTUNING MIC-5DP30, SR-Mini Series 30W Single Row Cree LED Light Bar Combo Spot Flood 2700 lm, 400m Visibility, 8'' L https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L0R5ZQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_R49SSAXXS09450VNHC7R?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
$8. I'll just leave this here for ya. I purchased April 2020, no issues yet.
QAZAKY Fuel Gas Petcock Valve Pump Switch for Suzuki DRZ400 FZR600 LT80 LTZ250 LTZ400 Yamaha YFS200 YFM250 YFM350 YFM400 YFM600 YFM660 YFZ350 YFZ450 Raptor 660 Wolverine Banshee 350 Grizzly Blaster https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MPH4DPO/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_JFGJTGHRS2RCXSXZ3H4E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is it. No modification needed whatsoever for me. However, I did have to dremel my aftermarket radiator guards a bit for some clearance.
What is the rear sprocket? 14T/44T is the stock S gearing. You can likely hit the highway but will in the upper end of the RPMs.
I bought a tiny tach, it's helpful to see exactly what RPM I'm running at on the highway, shifting and tuning. Easy to install, just route and wrap around the plug wire, and velcro tape to the bar clamp. It lights up and is powered by a watch battery which lasts about 1.5 to 2 years.
I had the same problem. The problem is once it gives out the petcock no longer stops fuel flow. It's just always on. I replaced the petcock with this simple on/off style for cheap. The OEM petcock is supposed to use a vacuum line to pressurize and allow fuel flow when it's "on". Prime is just gravity flow to fill the carb so leaving it there can cause this.
The reason it starts and runs for a bit and then dies is because the crankcase breather hose goes into the air box. So when the oil gets hot, which is full of fuel, the vapors are going straight into the intake. In turn causing a rich condition by starving the engine from clean air.
While fuel in the oil doesn't directly cause any real damage it cannot be good longevity of lubricated parts as gasoline breaks down lube, i.e. bearings and such.
I used this petcock below. Easy install but you do need to cap off the vacuum line that is no longer required.
QAZAKY Fuel Gas Petcock Valve Pump Switch for Suzuki DRZ400 FZR600 LT80 LTZ250 LTZ400 Yamaha YFS200 YFM250 YFM350 YFM400 YFM600 YFM660 YFZ350 YFZ450 Raptor 660 Wolverine Banshee 350 Grizzly Blaster https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MPH4DPO/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_Y7P0Y8337Z645W2YMNGN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I've seen people love or hate these. Amazon sells 'em so I could try one and return if I'm not a fan.
This one, yea?
Dr Dry Red/Black HC2 Lift Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HNX1YI/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_2HP4K6ZESKD9JAY8M2MK
If your phone has optical image stabilization the vibrations from the bike will destroy your camera eventually. Destroyed my pixel 3 xl and pixel 4a rear cameras. Also destroys iPhone cameras as well.
Aside from that I really like: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MR7SDDG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The built in charger is nice to have and seems pretty durable although I took the circuit board out and coated it in liquid electrical tape to give it more weather resistance.
Hell yeah! Fuel Tank Tap, Fuel Switch,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08RBKJZLG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
That’s the one I ordered. You don’t have to click the link or anything. Everything’s in the article
Besides the vac cap on the carb.
Here's the one I bought. Now I have to say this is a purchase i did 2 days ago so I don't have experience with it yet. Happy to update you after it arrives and I install it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07WXKPTS3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Weird lol. Here's another. Krator MT272-006 Polished Chrome ATV Exhaust Tip Muffler Power Outlet Compatible with Artic Cat DVX400 Kawasaki KFX400 Suzuki LT-Z400 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007FHZ9FM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_6GCD0CX5A2S527YJ55Z5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here's the link totally worth it! - Krator MT272-006 Polished Chrome ATV Exhaust Tip Muffler Power Outlet Compatible with Artic Cat DVX400 Kawasaki KFX400 Suzuki LT-Z400 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007FHZ9FM/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_D5NZNXK7ABM82A4VY3V7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I got a brand new DRZ a few months ago and wanted to keep the stock shroud as well. Here's the link to Amazon it's a $20 bulb that's very bright I am very satisfied! You will need to use a little bit of WD-40 around the rubber boot and the bulb to squeeze it on there because it's a little larger than the stock bulb but it will fit!
AUXITO H4 LED Headlight Bulb Motorcycle, 9003 HB2 LED Light 6000K White for High and Low Hi/Lo Beam 1860 CSP LED Chips, Pack of 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092SHMWQZ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_N5VKRY8K3HYBEGGXPZ07?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
One more I'd add, make sure your back wheel is on straight! The snail adjusters on the DRZ aren't always great, something like Motion Pro's chain alignment tool can help. I'd also be curious about tire pressure, but don't want to admit just how fast I've gone on ~14psi on the highway to connect trails.
20 bucks on amazon, the bottom clips through your wheel so it wont fall off. Been using for a while, only issue was when a hurricane came through and enough wind was able to topple it, but that's going to happen with almost any cover. https://www.amazon.com/XYZCTEM-Season-Waterproof-Motorcycle-Lockholes/dp/B0142IHKX0/ref=sr\_1\_4?\_encoding=UTF8&c=ts&dchild=1&keywords=Powersports+Vehicle+Covers&qid=1625066481&s=automotive&sr=1-4&ts\_id=404643011
I hate those pillow top grips. They wear out super fast too. I've tried a lot of grips and this is my all time favorite when they're available
"Ace hardware" has a kick ass selection of stainless, chrome and otherwise ...
"Fastenal" ...pricey but they have, or can get everything.
Also ...."spec bolt "
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZA3AFK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_6R4KFABZAGZGRKHRBKQB
Your good bro...
Just be sure to check it about every 4-5 tanks of gas ..
They burn a little .
Expect to add 3-5oz between oil changes. Especially when you get more miles.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.silexgames.drz400companion
Just Amazon. Black Yellow Rise Racing Graphic Kit fits Suzuki Drz400 Drz 400 Drz400sm 400sm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085FX37V4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DFXG4ZHRZSPH5753BHFG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Precision Motorcycle Racks Suzuki DRZ400S/SM and KLX400S Enduro Series Rear Luggage Rack (All Years) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KTV99ME/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_1KE5VFEMQ28NRTCCF1TH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Kungfu Graphics Custom Decal Kit for Suzuki DRZ400 SM Supermoto 1999 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014 2015 2016 2017 2018 2019, SZDRSE9919030-KO https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M76BK6C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GPJH56FNVH45BE7AN875?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Bike mirror, 2pcs bike rear view mirrors with Wide Angle Convex Mirror, Adjustable Rotatable Handlebar for Mountain Bike, Off-Road Bike and Fixed Gear Bike Handlebars https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08DTDFSGV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8ME30M325JW22T4Y2MX2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You'll have mixed results trying to weld it. That's a pretty significant crack and it would be very hard to get everything clean enough. Also you'd need to take it to an experienced TIG welder.
You may have better luck using JB Weld. They make a product designed for repairing engine blocks: www.amazon.com/dp/B01IBOBY74
https://smile.amazon.com/Ken-Sean-95107-Knockback-Motorcycle/dp/B01BDF5SUC/
I really like these ken sean mirrors. Cheap, easy to fold out of the way (braches will fold them up for you when needed!), and still pretty usable.
this is the kit i ordered, sticking with the blue and grey since ive already got a bunch of anodized blue pieces on it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08G9VF6VN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Amazon case savers do just fine.
These bikes are notorious for the brake and shifter wreaking the case. Yes , sooner than later.
Also I have this BASH PLATE ... Worked perfectly with oem hardware.
Meh, been using philips on jis since I was ten, so 30 years now. Get a hammer impact driver, like this TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_8Jv.Fb97KN9CK And some good screwdrivers.
I like these. Put them on my Drz after I bent my oem clutch and they're about an inch shorter on each lever but they're not a shorty. They really feel nice and they clean up the look a little bit. Also adjustable.
If you're trying to get rid of the old light I removed the whole stock windscreen and built. A custom bracket to mount 2 of these top/bottom, it's 10x brighter than my stock light have it set up so it's both on or strobe on "high beams" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L0R5ZQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_BZj3FbM1D8SM8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I ran into this issue earlier this year. The stock plastic bolts are a specific size and thread pattern, someone on this thread already posted them so look there.
Home depot and other hardware stores I tried had close but not the right thread pattern. Your best bet would be to go to a fastener shop like fastenal, they have everything.
I ended up buying a premade bolt kit from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZA3AFK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_zZs1FbTJZPXT5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They have another option that's 120pc and 20$ cheaper too, but this seemed worth it for me.
It has all spec bolts for almost the entire bike as well as plastics. It's a little spendy but considering buying just a few OEM bolts from partzilla costs like $3 each and then $25 for shipping and waiting 3 months, the amazon option is cheaper And arrives in 2 days and you have extras and other parts as needed (for example I bought it for the plastics bolts but ended up shearing my sprocket bolts and it came with extras too and saved my ass).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001T0SYV2
A few things to note:
AGM batteries have a specific activation and initial charge procedure. For this capacity battery, it will need to sit for at least one hour, but not more than two, after the electrolyte is added. This gives the battery time to absorb the electrolyte. After the battery is activated, it must be fully charged outside the bike, using a bench charger. The slower the better.
If the above procedure was not followed, you likely damaged the battery.
If you did follow the above procedure exactly, then it's very likely that your charging system is gone, or you have a bad connection and the battery isn't getting a charge. You'll need to test your charging system.
BlackPath - Fits Suzuki Exhaust Tip With Screen Arrestor DRZ250 DRZ400 Motorcycle 3D Power Tip (Silver) T6 Billet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S72TB4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_TEmJRPWas9QCW
Believe nothing they say about any performance improvements — it’s just not really possible
ACDelco ATX7BBS Specialty AGM Powersports JIS 7B-BS Battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BFLVWQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_7QARFbKN324TP
I bought this and it works great. I keep mine on a battery tender too.
Pick up these after you replace the plastics to protect the bike with soft bags.
Suzuki DRZ400S/KLX400S Side Luggage Racks 2000-present https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KU8RI4W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_P9JNFb4TAJ23K?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Hmmmm. Now I'm debating buying full plastics because it's only 100 bucks on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Acerbis-Replacement-Plastic-Kit-2041080001/dp/B0018EOKA8
I learned that lesson the hard way as well. Since then i keep basic tools and a spare tube with me. They also make mini air compressors that you can plug into the bike to fill you back up. You can fit most everything in a tube like this mounted under tail.
It's bent. If you want to just not deal with it, replace it, they aren't too expensive. These ones are my favorite https://www.amazon.com/IMS-313117-Flightline-Folding-Shift/dp/B000UKHHQ0/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=drz+shifter&qid=1602606080&sr=8-3. I've crash on it a lot on rocks and boulders and it's held up well for me.
I was thinking of getting these.
who knows they might work for you since my DRZ is pretty old (2001), maybe they changed stuff around.
I bought the version with out the adjustable dial (link below) and even though they said DRZ they did not fit my DRZ, I ended up grinding parts of them away and putting them on my TTR125L. they are nice for the price its just too bad they didn't work. if you get the other version let me know what you think I may order a pair for my other bike.
​
I got them from Amazon, Joe Rocket makes some decent gear, value wise. These velocity 3 are def just summer and spring gloves. It hit 40 the other night and my hands were done like 20 mins in.
I am having a good experience with these. Be sure to use locktite (sp?) on the adjustment screws. I ended up having one work its way out on a gravel road and had to finish the day without a front brake.
I mean I found one on amazon that was cheap, finish isn't as nice as the kientech, but it works pretty well imo. It says it's for the fcr pumper but the threading is the same as the mikuni.
This one is the one I bought
I let those screws sit with multiple applications of kroil over 24 hours, and after all that the screw heads actually snapped (not stripped) during my removal attempt. I purchased a screw extractor set off amazon and had them out in maybe 5 minutes.
This is the extractor set used: https://www.amazon.com/Tools-Hanson-Spiral-Extractor-11119/dp/B0002NYBH8/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?dchild=1&keywords=screw+extractor+tool&qid=1596676470&sprefix=screw+&sr=8-17
The replacement screws and retainer are parts 28 and 29 on this page: https://www.motosport.com/oem-parts/suzuki/2006/drz400sm/transmission
Any oem parts pages are fine if you can find one with cheap shipping, just look in the transmission section
You can get levers on Amazon for 20$...
They are often not the best .. But they work just fine.
And mirrors also...
Although if you plan to continue off roading and risk falling over ...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BHVYK3J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Y.ThFbFSPGDCF
These will be the last mirrors you ever buy..not pretty but arguably the most versatile and durable.
You can easily fold them up for off road...and if you knock them you just re adjust and keep going. There are very few examples where you'll actually break them.
Also available....a short stem if you don't like them that high.
I got mine off of amazon. I believe they were pivot levers but the caps covering the spring fell off of the spring on the brake so I replaced it with an m6 nylock nut and a washer and they no longer pivot, and I have no concerns on their stability now MZS CNC Pivot Brake Clutch Levers Compatible with Suzuki DR200S 2015-2019 | DR250R 1996-2000 | DRZ400S DRZ400SM 2000-2017 | DJEBEL250XC 1998-2007 Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DBPUHIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.j97EbFZ2Y4XK
Im gonna let you in on a secret, these on amazon are the same as the Zeta. I have both and had them side by side. Same product/design/look etc. Theyre just handguards, dont overthink it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073LR3GPC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just got a 400s for my first bike a couple months ago. After a few weeks of riding it these were the things I did:
Ride the bike stock and decide what you think would enhance your riding experience!!!
I've got a similar tank, not that one though. I've got radiator guards (similar to these)which help support it some; but, I've never had any trouble when dumping it. The handlebars and lower fork will hit the ground and protect it for the most part.
Something like this would work. I cannot speak on this exact one as I don't have it and have never tested.
JACOOL Disc Lock Alarm Motorcycle Disc Brake Lock, Anti-Theft Waterproof 110dB Alarm Sound and 6mm Pin with 4ft Reminder Cable for Motorcycles Bike Scooter Bonus Carry Pouch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CKP95ZC/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_EBGlDbRE7A96B
I have the same one. Survived a 3000 mile round trip to Texas and back from Michigan. However I would really recommend using this as well.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001CMUV4/
Otherwise it can rattle around a lot.
i use these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KU8YOL8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
they don't stick out far from the bike so they don't get broken off when i drop the bike and if they ever do they are cheap enough to replace. i ordered 2 sets so i have plenty of spares.
~~Looking at the clamps you are looking at, they are different than the ones I have. Mine are the~~ ~~protaper universal~~ ~~ones (with 3/4" lift that you are looking to avoid).~~
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~~Mine have two bolts that go into the top of the triple tree not the one bolt like the ones you linked. Which reminded me that the SM has the upside-down forks which must have a different triple tree. When I pulled that part number, it was for a DRZ400SM though.~~
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~~Last random link for ya, this is the post I used while shopping that~~ ~~RAM mount~~~~, they all say its M8 here too.~~
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I think you are right (we're talking different bolts) , my S doesn't have a removable lower bar clamp like the SM; which makes sense, upside-down forks vs conventional so the upper triple isn't the same. This also explains why it's so dang confusing to pick out a scott's steering damper!
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Anyway, good luck with the new bike! This is my first season on my DRZ400s and I love it so far. Huge upgrade over my xt350... haha
Will do for sure. I meant the entire unit with the long ass tail, wide turn signals that are starting to melt from my exhaust (Hindle full system, but on the bright side I could tell if the signal was covered in black soot after a ride = rich, white = lean). Oh and the useless waste of plastic under the plate with a little bicycle reflector on it. Regardless, a drz is a drz and I love drzee's
More sarcasm than anything, I just ordered this cheap one https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B071DF568M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 so I'm expecting possible problems like your own.
Sometimes the cheap stuff works, sometimes it doesn't. The drz is sort of a square looking bike in stock form. Still gorgeous but holy crap, some of the simplest things make it that much more sexy.
I used to not give a shit about it's looks and more about performance but holy shit! Got rid of the "mickey mouse ear" mirrors yesterday in favor of handguard mounted and I removed the "fanny pack" tool bag on the rear fender (mounted a cylindrical pouch on inner side of battery box for this) and I'm in awe with how much sportier it looks from just those. I even had the old neighbour come by and ask why my bike looks so different.
Next up is some suzuki yellow/gold tassels out the handlebars, a 6 foot tall orange security flag on the rear once I finish re-doing my helmet mohawk.
I really like my DID VX2. RK is a close second and Renthal and JD make decent chains as well.
You are going to want a 520 sized chain (and sprockets!) and likely a 110 or 112 link. Also helpful to grab a chain press tool. Alternatively, you can use a C-clamp to get that sucker on, but I like the Tusk tool. Let me know if you have other questions!
Thx boss. Seems like they have the 120/80-18 for ~$60 on Amazon which seems like a great price.
Alternatively, may grab a new front wheel as well. If I did, Revzilla has a nice combo going for $111.
Would I be fine with 90/90-21TL for the front? TL vs TT if I want to shop around? Since the stock is 80/100, would this have any noticeable effect on my speedo? Thinking 80*100% vs 90*90% is only a mm difference..
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F181640231640
12 by 48 inches Self Adhesive JDM Golden Yellow Headlights or Fog Lights Tint Vinyl Film https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BLFHS0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_DItsAb5MGSH3C
I had to flip the factory bracket upside down and modify the new bracket that came with the light in order it fit right. The wiring is plug and play though. I also put the yellow headlamp tint on for aesthetics.
I bought mine with a rack already installed. It looks a lot like this one here.
So much so, I'd say it is that one. I have the milk crate over the rear-most two bars. The crate fits a full-size, street helmet with some space on top. I cut off the bottom of another crate to use as a lid. It is held on by nylon webbing and a cam buckle.