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General Hydroponics nutrients mixed up at 5.5 pH and allowed to drift up naturally as the plants feed. Will not make any adjustments until the next top off.
Will take a little research to mix correctly but this is the ultimate sanitizer for hydro. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N976ZJ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_9PRF5VDCKKZ23CHNB9SM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I use pool shock but wish I had found this first. Higher concentration and calcium hypochlorite is superior to sodium hypochlorite (pool shock)
I tested a lot of jars, but ultimately settled with these. If it’s not available there should be something similar in the related items. I like that it’s machine washable, and easy to open. I keep my larf (that’s not frozen) in the plastic bin now
I use a 400 GPH sub pump. A drum pump would work but you're either going to have to manually crank it or shell out a few $100 for a motorized one.
I scrub buckets every week until the 3rd or 4th week of flower. After that I use a pump.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08D7FWCMV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use 5 gallon buckets with a large nesting pot lid. I cut a circular hole in the lid that can be plugged by a rubber stopper. The hole is big enough for the drain and suction of the pump to go through.
On Res change day I drain, (sometimes rinse, then drain again) and refill the bucket with new mix then plug hole with rubber plug. I also use hole to check ph with a suction needle and putting liquid in smaller cup to get reading.
I have done this for four cycles and had no issues.
That kind of return is indicative of low line pressure. If you're not hitting your full 60PSI+ line pressure (say if you have a well) then you're certainly not going to get within range of the desired 80PSI the RO/DI membrane prefers to operate at. You should be getting closer to 2-2.5 gallons of waste per gallon of RO.
MASTERBLEND 4-18-38 Complete Combo Kit Fertilizer Bulk (2.5 Pound Kit) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072F2BL9D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CG2ZGDMVGBJXKTR5RSWF
For all three nutrients
Sodium benzoate: Sodium Benzoate 99% USP/FCC Grade 8 oz (Ounce) Preservative, Additive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B084D4YH1W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CHY5SQZ6GM6EFPGWC3VS
Happy growing!
The pipe that water exits the water pump has a little tube that sticks up. As water flows past the tube it sucks air into the water, oxygenating the water. This action needs the water without eating it up the way air pumps do. This makes it easier to keep your water cooler, which allows the water to hold more oxygen.
Here's an example of a pump that includes a venturi: Danner Manufacturing, Inc. 40127 Supreme Hydro-Mag, Recirculating Water Pump, 700 GPH, Model 7 with Venturi, 40127, DN42700 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007BVKAQA/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_glt_fabc_65TRKDP9BRJ68B5Y7RHR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Acidea 20Pack 4inch Hydroponics Mesh Net Cup Pots Basket Garden Supplies Aquaponics System Black https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B086QDVVP5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_DVP884VDPRCANVQ8D90X?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It is either High Water Temp, Insufficient bubbles, or Both.
Which one is your water temp vs temp tent? Can you take a picture of your bubbles in-action?
I recommend upgrading from a bucket to a 5-27 gallon storage tote from Home Depot, Lowes, Walmart..etc. Buckets are thin and transfer heat more easily than a tote. Also white bucket exposes the roots to light and just not good for the health of the plant. A black tote should be light-proof. Test it out in the store with your Phone Flashlight to see if it penetrates the tote/tote lid.
You will still need to black out the top/yellow lid. Instead of painting, you could use black foam or posterboard from the Walmart Crafts/Joeann's/Michaels. Colored foam would probably work, but haven't tried it yet with a flashlight or something; I just went straight to black.
Benefits of totes:
- More time between refills/top ups
- 100% blocks light
- Thicker material than bucket, less heat transfer but still some heat transfer
- Nutrient EC / Ph will be more stable through the grow.
I go days without checking the plants. During peak flower maybe 3-4 times a week I would go in for about an hour at a time. Typically topping off twice a week. The monster in the back needed water every two days during peak growth.
I only did a full water change twice (I run a small 400 GPH pump attached to a length of 1/2" ID vinyl tubing to drain out the tanks).
Once change was when flipping to flower and then I did a full change prior to flushing.
I spend way more time defoliating than I do messing with the tanks. I never once checked pH in the actual grow tanks. I just kept adding pH 5.5 nutrient solution and the plants loved it. Once you have the system dialed in it's really easy.
You don't need to test it yourself, just read carefully in the descriptions. I googled the Mars 600 and you can see from the description that it only uses 100 Watts. https://www.amazon.com/MARS-HYDRO-Spectrum-Hydroponic-Greenhouse/dp/B07VL8FZS1
"HIGH EFFICIENCY ENERGY SAVING PLANT LIGHT, Consuming only 100 Watts true output with 225 PCS LEDs, more scientifically and energy-efficient! Perfect for 2' x 2' veg stage, 1.5' x 1.5' bloom stage, higher intensity in a MARS HYDRO grow tent, reflective area, or by crossing over using multiple TS600"
That was my hunch as well. Been looking at this one ($150): https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/75gpd-4-stage-value-ro-di-system-bulk-reef-supply.html and this one ($140): https://www.amazon.com/TYPHOON-Stage-RODI-Reefkeeper-GPD/dp/B00136UCFS ... I think they are pretty much the same. Am I on the right track?
I can recommend this $6 clip purchase for a ton of reasons. Not limited to LST and Drying assistance. Photo shoots. Roach clip. You get it.
Yeah that’s about right, 6-in water halos on Amazon are like $8
Bloom Brothers GGWR06 Inch Hydro Halo Water 6" W/3 Leg Su, 6 inch, 3 Ring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UF9VXE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3DPG7Z2Z2NHKCGG73YF6
The 3-in bulkheads were the most expensive thing, regular duty were sold out everywhere so I got these big ones, they come cheaper but not as sturdy. They don’t need to be this sturdy though I imagine the cheaper ones should be fine.
Van Enterprises 3" PRO Series PVC Bulkhead Tank Fitting Adapter W/Dual Locking Nuts for Pools, Aquariums, Water Tanks, Ponds https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074LDMSC5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_1WXEYNARNTPGJQEG5W33
That’s the only two things I couldn’t get at Lowe’s
Without knowing EC/PPM no one can really say. I still default to burn when the tips are yellowing to the point where they are disintegrating.
Looks like burn. You need to get one of
These for EC
And one of
These For PH
11 times out of 10 the solution recommendation on the bottles is twice (if not more) what you should actually be running. So use the EC meter to get your solution to around 500-600PPM (1000-1200EC on the 500 scale). And use the PH test kit to get it down to "yellowish with a tinge of orange, not green" -- this is about 5.8 PH, the sweet spot.
Once you get that dialed in we can worry about things like better lights and nutrients etc.
Good luck.
DO NOT BUY CHEAP!!!! My best advice.
pH pen that will last a long time with proper care: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01ESYG6B0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
EC/ppm meter: I'll have to get back to you later tonight!
I'm in the UK, I'm guessing your in the states? Not sure if silver bullet is available there, I couldn't see southern guard over here anywhere but I'm guessing they are pretty much the same thing.
During flower when they are really going for it I run the nutes at 3ml/L and watch out for tip burn, or check the ec once in a while to make sure it's not climbing dramatically.
Oh yeah, I do run a bit of overdrive towards the end for PK and sometimes give them bud candy if im feeling rich/generous. Not sure if it really does much tbh.
I got one of those bucket head shop vacs for 40 dollars on amazon.
You just attach it to a bucket and it vacuums all of the water out very quickly. Makes water changes a breeze.
This BluLab Device allows to add either pH up or down but not both if you pH passes a certain threshold that is set by the user
I love my Vevor buckets!
There is great information for a beginner here. I started with this system and feeding schedule and had great results. I've since tweaked the feeding a bit and now I only start my plants in the RDWC tote system described at that link. Once they are about 12-18 inches tall I move them from the tote into the 5 gallon pails for the rest of their lives.
You will be amazed, after growing in soil for years, how fast the hydroponic plants grow.
Honestly? I had about a 50% kill rate with rockwool. I switched to ihort Q-Plugs and have a 100% success rate. You could also use Rapid Rooters; I think they're similar.
Not that I want to promote the 'zon, but this is what I ordered:
https://www.amazon.com/IHORT-IHQPC50-Plug-Cubes-Brown/dp/B07QC4C6VV
Now, to your question, I run the water 1" below the bottom of the net pot, and top water along the inside edge of the pot about every 3 days or so. I DO NOT soak the plug.
I would treat with hydrogen peroxide (1 tsp per gallon if using 12% H2O2, or 4 times as much if using drugstore 3%), then use a few drops of Southern Ag at every water change from then on to prevent reoccurence.
I consider my pH and EC/ppm meter as disposable. I purchased two off Amazon at different times for around $12 each. They seem to work and I depend on them for making wine and hydro growing. One is older than the other and has pretty much given bad results regularly even though I've calibrated. They aren't available from this seller, but you have options.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HM71K96
I'm using AN. And yeah their product line names are a mess, but the product themselves are literal magic. This is how healthy the plants look using that solution: https://old.reddit.com/r/DWC/comments/y3bv0o/bruce_banner_gelato_30_days_veg/
The ones I use and highly recommend that also auto balance their PH (you'll never need a Ph pen ever) is "Advanced Nutrients Ph Perfect Sensei Grow A+B and then later Bloom A+B" for flower
Here's a link to the Grow
https://www.amazon.com/Advanced-Nutrients-Perfect-Sensi-Amendments/dp/B0116RAF46
As others have said, beneficial bacteria or "bennies" will help keep the bad bacteria from getting any meaningful growth going. I'm sure there are lots of products that are great. I can attest to Plant Revolution Orca Liquid Mycorrhizae.
Good luck!
Same as 2byte, I just pump out the old with one of these:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0932Z4HQK
Then rinse off the pump, and replenish the res using the same pump to pump in the new solution. 1 tsp / gal of Hydroguard (plus a little more), and that's it!
I use GH Maxi Bloom and CaliMagic in RO water. And Hydroguard.
MAXI BLOOM 2.2 LB: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004JK8L1W
My mix order/strength for established plants (per gallon of RO):
5 ml CaliMagic
2 grams Maxibloom
5 ml Hydroguard
pH UP to get to 5.8
I use from seedling (weak solution) to harvest.
Like you can buy raw nutrient and mix your self expert level just like GH does or you can get a "kit" like: Masterblend on Amazon or Flying Skull Elite Series 3 Part. Local Grow shops should offer dry alternatives.
Have you used an enzyme, beneficial bacteria, mycorrhizae?
I hold a 10x lens from a pair of Magnifying Glasses I got from Amazon up to my phone camera. I also have a Wireless/USB Microscope but using the glasses to check my trichs and its lens to take pictures is much easier.
you need stuff like this
i thought about running my whole system with corrugated because its cheap af
Battery like this ??
4 buckets plants and 1 res with 1 air pump. Upgraded from using multiple 2 outlet pumps, more convenient.
Just concerned about putting unneeded heat into each Res.
This is the system that I bought and I've been pleased with it. It's an 8 bucket system. I do a perpetual grow so it works great for me-- since each plant is a different age, each plant can get a different nutrient mix.
I was getting tons of PH swings too, I started running hydroguard and ditched GH flora trio + ph up/down in favor of just running Mantis PH Buffered Nutrients
Hydroguard + Mantis and I never have to PH my water. I do bubble it in a bucket for 24 hours before I add mantis & put it into jugs for refilling plant reservoirs but thats about it.
I don't sell or am affiliated, it works. You need bennies (beneficials) to keep her happy. I use it and have had great success. I use .5 tsp per 4-5 gal reservoir; let it hydrate and become active in dechlorinated water for 30 minutes prior to adding nutrients into the reservoir.
https://smile.amazon.com/Great-White-PSGW-01-FGGRWH-1OZ-Mycorrhizae/dp/B00A8PG6RI/?th=1
Thanks for sharing your garden with us, your temps must not be too high for your black/red totes or that may be the culprit to your pythium/RR.
Two friendly growers tips:
If you paint or wrap the outside of the tote with white, it'll make a huge difference with water temps and red light leakage through the tops. Touch a black car and a white car and see which is hotter; black absorbs light equaling heat, while white reflects it. A white trash bag will be better than the black/red.
GARDEN FRIENDLY FUNGICIDE by Southern AG is far more concentrated than HG without the price of HG.
https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Garden-Friendly-Fungicide/dp/B014174BZM/
I am a DWC Newbie. I use city treated tap water with no issues. My air temps in my 2x2 closet are 75-85F and my water temps are 75-78F. I use Southern Ag Garden Friendly Biological Fungicide for a beneficial bacteria. You mix it 1ml Southern AG to 20ml water then out of that mixture 1ml per gallon of water. If you have any questions, ask! If you look through my profile probably a lot of your questions will be answered.
Did you buy the Hydroguard yet? I been using Southern AG, its cheaper, more concentrated and one bottle will last years. Also, you really are going to need a digital pH meter. Get yourself an Apera PH20 from Amazon. I just started DWC also and this is the meter I got and it works great. I did a lot of research before getting one also. If you can afford a Apera PH60 get that instead, its probe is replaceable where the PH20 one is not. If you get the PH20 just make sure you get storage solution for the probe.
Buy this:
You need a ph tester. Get an Apera PH20 from Amazon. The Regular Kit + Solution for $62.40 comes with everything you need. It comes with 4.0 and 7.0 calibration solution so you would have all the things. Its the same thing I just got and it works great. I'm just starting with DWC also.
It depends on how the roots look, if the roots look good she shouldn't have a problem. If you're not using blennies, you should start asap (Great White or Southern AG)
thanks I will take a look...
?? do you think this one could work?
This amazon pump is awesome, I ran some 1/2 inch aquarium tube from the supply hole to the outdoors and i cant hear a damn thing from it. I am running 10 five gal buckets with 2" air stones and there is plenty excess air volume to expand further but I'm swamped with 10 buckets. Been running constantly for 6 months now with no issues.
I just got everything to build a DIY chiller for $40 bucks. I am going to finish assembling it all today and I will make a post of how well it works soon.
Mini Water Pump:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B8XR2JF/
Radiator and Fan Combo:
I just got everything to build a DIY chiller for $40 bucks. I am going to finish assembling it all today and I will make a post of how well it works soon.
Mini Water Pump:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B8XR2JF/
Radiator and Fan Combo:
Here's the drip ring setup I got off of Amazon. It had more parts than what I really need but they will eventually be put to use somehow. The drip ring will fit a 10" bucket basket better but modifying for the 6" that I'm using was very easy with hot water.
One thing that is bothering me, after 24 hours my water temp is 76.8F and holding steady. My air temps hover around 75-80F. I am trying to think up a diy water cooler using a PC water cooling setup. Do you guys think hooking a small fountain pump up to the radiator I have linked below will work good enough to drop my water temp 5-10 degrees?
I started out my dwc with 2 buckets. One using the tube like you have for air, the other using an air stone. The air stone seemed to provide a lot more air/bubbles and half way thru veg I ended up drilling a tiny hole in the top side of the this bucket and went with an air stone. In the end my two plants are much different sizes. The one starting out with the air stone is much larger.
VIVOSUN Air Stone Disc 5 x 5 Inch... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06VV79ZTK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Great White has the bacteria included in Hydro-guard, never used Orca. GW or any blennies should be reintroduced per each full solution change. GW dosing is .5 tsp per 5 gallons. HG wouldn't be my first choice for blennies, when you run out of HG, get this https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B014174BZM instead.
Attempt to get your air temps down in he closet, if you can cut a 4" hole in the ceiling and vent into the attic, do it. My house is 76F, I vent to the attic pulling air up and out through the fan. I cut an extra 1/2" off the bottom of the door allowing a larger amount of air to pass under the door, up and out. The 1/2" cut isn't actually noticeable and you may not need to do it, but plenty of cooler air is always entering the closet this way.
An 8 inch air stone, 1 per plant
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09DY45GGD
Currently they're vegging in a closet in 3 gal tubs, later I'll transplant to main tents when they're ready. 1 airpump per plant as well. Air bubbles are vigorously bubbling at the surface even with the roots already enveloping the airstone
thank you so much! That is an excellent point about quality of the buckets.... I wonder if something like this would work? Not sure where to get a food-safe bucket... https://www.amazon.com/Xsourcer-Platisc-Marinading-Brining-Durable/dp/B08X7HTJ2P/ref=sr_1_29?crid=2680MSJAY1B3P&keywords=5+gallon+food+grade+bucket&qid=1654736707&sprefix=5+gallon+food+grade+bucket%2Caps%2C85&sr=8-29
will figure out how to cover the top and buckets asap. bought some material at Home Depot today, will try to figure out something tomorrow.
do I always add this bacteria or just when things go bad?
Hydroguard is a huge rip off and has one of the lowest bacillus counts of any product.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014174BZM
It's literally 98% bacillus. (and holy shit does it smell like it when you open that bottle and start gagging)
Ignore the usage instructions btw. I treat 25 GALLONS with 1 MILLILITER. It's an inoculant and a damn good one at that.
I just use a Vitapur water cooler filter to get rid of the chlorine. My plant hasen't complained yet and pH seems stable.
This is what I used when I had 5 gallon buckets link No silicone required and I just hand tightened them. One thing to watch for is the seam on the bulkheads sometimes have a lip from the factory mold and will need to be sanded smooth. You can also find them cheaper at a local grow supply
I’m not sure what brand it is I got it off eBay, it’s a 1/3hp, o have a 25 gal system though.
Botanicare Hydroguard Bacillus Root Inoculant, Quart https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IGFH25M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QP0JXZVPVZ1SWW0W2SFB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Use 2ml per gallon, from seed to harvest, you can’t overdo it. But you can be wasteful with it
Hate to even ask, what chiller do you have?
I have this. Is this pseudo hydro guard?
Southern Ag Garden Friendly Biological Fungicide,16oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VXQG23O/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_520S3HNBBTTR6PPBARB0
Seems like 56% is very diluted, wonder if the remaining ingredients are calcium? Better yet,
https://www.amazon.com/Pure-Organic-Ingredients-Eco-Friendly-Packaging/dp/B07532VLYX
I was looking at Southern AG's product prior to Great White, would you break this down for me please. Why do I need both? TIA
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00VXQG23O
Also invest in a par meter or use a free one from your phone if you can. I have this one
Dr.meter LX1330B Digital Illuminance Light Meter, 0-200,000 Measurement Range Lux Meter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005A0ETXY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TG2EDJ2HNBWNK43JV1BA
and it gives you a good idea on where your strong spots with your set up. Not bad on the pocket either.
Tent is good
Fan is excellent, I have that exact one. You will not believe how quiet it runs. My tiny air pump for the reservoir is louder.
Get a 6" filter to go with the 6" fan so you don't need to get extra sized ducting and/or a coupler.
Can't give you much comment on lights. I used to use a 600W HPS/MH setup, but switched to these 3 years ago and have been satisfied. Do your research on the lights though, and read their specs carefully so you know what its really drawing from the wall and the amount of light it's outputting.
High risk of root rot if they don't fix the airline. I'd run it in the side of the bucket as well. FloraFlex makes good opaque airline. https://www.amazon.com/FloraFlex-760456-tubing-16-ID/dp/B01ETQIC9Q
First time DWC here, I bought these tabs that 3m tape down. Will glue to the bucket top.
I can’t pull it off with my hands, so assuming they will be strong enough to hold the branch. Would recommend going with 1”. 3/4 are really tight for my ties to pass. I’ll just put a small twist tie loop to loop.
Zip Tie Mount 0.75 Inch 20 mm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NYNVHZY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I saw another poster recommended this. I just ordered myself. Read the description. MANTIS Buffered Nutrients ;psc=1
I got this pump into a one bucket run.
I ran one line to the plant and another line to a bucket outside getting it ready for the switch in a week. All lines are symmetrical so airflow should be equal. I can take out the check valves. That should help airflow.
Uniclife Adjustable 64 GPH Air... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R5K6RGH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You need an interval timer. I use these. Can set any number of seconds/hours on/off. I use for feed timing in my coir fertigation. On 35 seconds, off 6 hours, repeat.
Outlet Timer, NEARPOW Multifunctional Programmable Timer with Countdown and 7-Day Digital Infinite Repeat Cycle Intermittent, 19 ON/OFF Programs for Electrical Outlets, 3 Prong, 15A/1800W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QJ3K43N/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_9G6CBC9B51VSB317Y222?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have one light from Amazon, idk if it's going to work though. I haven't started the grow yet because I still need a fan, and ac unit and I need to complete my ventilation. This is the light I have, I'm hoping it will do the job.
SZHLUX PT8000 LED Grow Light... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09J8SMVDG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Good question! So, on res change, I simply use one of these pumps to suck the 3-ish gallons of solution out of the bucket (into a second standalone bucket we'll call SA), dump the SA bucket, sometimes I'll run a few gallons of fresh water to rinse the roots and pump that water out into the SA and empty that.
Then I rinse the pump and SA bucket, mix 3 gallons of new solution in the SA, and pump SA bucket into the rez.
Sounds like a lot of steps, but it usually only takes about 10 minutes per plant.
This is the pump that I use:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0932Z4HQK/
VIVOSUN 2600 GPH 120W Ultra-Quiet Submersible Water Pump w/ 20.3-ft. Power Cord and Strong, High Lift for Pond Waterfall, Fish Tank, Statuary, or Hydroponics https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FJWM52K/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_25DEFE1YABZHH9C37QYX?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I swap water every week. I'll try out that GH Florakleen
VIVOSUN 2600 GPH 120W Ultra-Quiet Submersible Water Pump w/ 20.3-ft. Power Cord and Strong, High Lift for Pond Waterfall, Fish Tank, Statuary, or Hydroponics https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FJWM52K/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_59YQWDZQ9C8BWASHBN7B?psc=1
This is what I've been using
Needs air. Plus that pump only moves 60 GPH. Not enough for any type of recirculation. Try something like this. VIVOSUN 480GPH Submersible Pump(1800L/H, 25W), Ultra Quiet Water Pump with 7.2ft High Lift, Fountain Pump with 5ft Power Cord, 3 Nozzles for Fish Tank, Aquarium, Statuary, Hydroponics https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082M7FNK6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_JJWZ5QVB937T0YBWNTDN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Add more hydroton so that it is level with the lid. Also, the bucket on the left looks like it has a 1.5" hole for your `1/4" airline to go through. All that extra space is letting light into the reservoir. If all your buckets have this large hole with all the loose space then they will all get rot.
​
Switch to a dark air line like the floraflex https://www.amazon.com/FloraFlex-760456-tubing-16-ID/dp/B01ETQIC9Q
and tighten up those holes so no light can get into the reservoir and look up how to save what you have it will probably be a bleach/peroxide wash and-or beneficial microbe bath.
Zoom in and look at the edges of ur netpot. U can see the holes, which mean light does have a way in, so fill her up, especially if u have had root problems in the past. Also, check these out: DWC tie down bucket mounts LST a guy on here showed his grow and it was FIRE, and I was like what are thooose?? My life has been forever changed since finding them. Lol. I stand by my previous comment BTW, that's a nice looking plant
Use root riot peat moss plugs. These are second to none
The condenser is a breeding ground for mold and bacteria. This is the part that makes the water. So it's kinda like the lottery. Other issues will be fluctuating pH and EC. The risk of overflowing the res on higher humidity days.
Before thinking about that hose it came with, check the manual and make sure it has a condensate pump. If it doesn't, think about getting one. Something like this. Superior Pump 97204, 80 GPH 1/30 HP Automatic Condensate Pump with Safety Switch and 20 Ft. Tubing for HVAC, Dehumidifier, Furnace, Air Conditioner. Max Head 21 ft. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GH3PJ67/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_EQTF8PXPVDKNS8VB4C3X?psc=1
Without a pump, the drain hose needs to go down vertical. It won't drain well horizontal. I use a condensate pump because the drain hose is about 30 ft to get it out of the room and uphill. I never have to dump the dehumidifier now. As the dehumidifier fills, the condensate pump moves it to the utility room and into the washing machine drain 4ft higher than dehumidifier. Condensate pumps have worked out so well for me, I am also using one to collect/recirculate runoff back to res in a hybrid hydro system.
https://www.amazon.ca/Pawfly-Submersible-Fountain-Aquarium-Hydroponic/dp/B01NBPCVW3/
this item + 1/2" hose.
I just push it down to the bottom of res (it has suction cups) and stick it there, plug it in, and it runs water out the hose. I've never sucked up roots at all but you can be pretty physically aggressive with cannabis roots in dwc and not have the plant die. You can trim them if needed, actually.
This is super funny. I use Prozyme which has one of y The highest enzyme counts and you can literally get it on Amazon for a dollar an ounce
This one Monterey LG3374 Complete Concentrate Fungicide & Bactericide for Control of Garden & Lawn Diseases, 1-Pint, 16 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5W7MX2/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_AC5PTAK7S8W1N3E0NZBB
This is supposedly the same bacteria as in Hydroguard but more concentrated and cheaper. I plan on getting this once I start my grow.
I use Mantis Buffered Nutrient. It’s a one bottle system for the entire life of the plant. From seed/clone through flower. It self buffers to the optimum PH range so no adjusting PH necessary. And no need to flush before harvest. I haven’t checked my PH in months. I’d never change to another nutrient. Mantis saves me too much time. You can find it on Amazon. I’m not sponsored by them and have bought every bottle I’ve used.
Monterey LG3374 Complete Concentrate Fungicide & Bactericide for Control of Garden & Lawn Diseases, 1-Pint, 16 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5W7MX2/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_EBV9JFWR4JPNTSHWDWHN
Got any source for that? I've read that ascorbic acid is often used in the treatment of dialysis patients, I cant imagine that we would be using it medically without it being proven science at this point. I'm not opposed to using a catalytic carbon filter but I'm working with limited space and I'd like to avoid having to reconnect and store this filter and hose anytime I refill my water. Would a single filter suffice? https://www.amazon.com/Pentek-ChlorPlus-Carbon-Filter-Cartridge/dp/B0051VC7CW/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=2DAPEFU1UZ5QK&keywords=chloramine+filter&qid=1644135358&sprefix=chloramine+%2Caps%2C1473&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGV...
I don't know if you have a beneficial bacteria, but I use one from Monterey that works awesome. It's like Hydroguard but way way cheaper. It'll eat anything you can't wash off between reservoir changes.
Monterey LG3374 Complete Concentrate Fungicide & Bactericide for Control of Garden & Lawn Diseases, 1-Pint, 16 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5W7MX2/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_52M3T72NGY6QDCA2DVJC
It's not strictly necessary, but I haven't had issues so I keep using it. My buckets get hit in the Arizona summer.
Monterey LG3374 Complete Concentrate Fungicide & Bactericide for Control of Garden & Lawn Diseases, 1-Pint, 16 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5W7MX2/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_QSX17TQ7TKT8QW39064Y
UV light will destroy your roots.
If you want to experiment, try using an enclosed sterilizer like this.
Used the 3/4" valves
HSH-Flo 3 Way 1/4" 3/8" 1/2" 3/4" 1" 12V/24VAC/DC 110-240VAC L Type Auto Return Brass Electrical On/Off Motorized Ball Valve (3/4 inch, 110-240VAC) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M9K3DAU/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_BBGWCGXZ6W8EGF06PCG8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Master a basic grow before you jump into Organic. But it doesn't even matter, the plants will use Organic and Inorganic in the same way.
5 Gallon Black Bottom Tote/Bucket + airstone & pump + nutrients + net cup/media
I use these as LST anchors. Fits fabric, plastic, clay, net pots, buckets, scrog nets. Toss a loop over the branch, pull down and clip to the container. 👍 Teenitor 50 PCS Stainless Steel Curtain Clips with Hook for Curtain, Photos, Home Decoration Outdoor Christmas Party Wire Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XFHRXRD/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_JAZW2S258GEMVDF7E8C7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I use Current Culture as well, the XL buckets (I think 13 gallons).
I prefer these airstones:
Just a friendly side note.
You would think that would work but, my experience is the only way to get the same flow of water going to each bucket is to have a dedicated ball valve for each bucket. You can get two on Amazon for about $14.
Habitech 2-Pack In-Line Barbed Ball Valve for 3/4 Inch Tubing - Regulate and Shut-Off/On Water Flow https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C5FVSQB/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_HWTX7ZE0ADQBZT1HG4K3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The diffuser ring you'll want to try and test. I know the air is distributed across 4 ports, but I'm not sure of the physics of converting it back to one or two ports.
The pump for the waterfall I use this for my 32gallon (but actually only runs with 10gal water for airzone) is this one: https://www.amazon.ca/EcoPlus-Submersible-Water-Pump-Power/dp/B0012UZYMG?th=1 You can pop the filter door off and convert it to an inline pump with the extra parts it comes with. It is a pretty common pump if you are in Canada or USA.
I gave up on inaccuracy of pens and went back to General Hydroponics' pH Test Indicator Kit
cheap refills of ph test indicator will last you a long time
VIVOSUN Aquarium Heater 50W/100W/200W/300W/400W/500W Submersible Titanium Fish Tank Heaters with Intelligent LED Temperature Display and External Temperature Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08FT7RY9S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_H6SWYCXYKY2G4BAEKBHA?psc=1