I'm trying out gardening for the first time this year and following this thread so I can swoop in on some good info. I'm also on the look-out for budget solutions as I was figuring things out (in case this turned out to be too time consuming or I just was flat out terrible at growing things).
I made a compost bin using a plastic-y/frp sheet I rolled into a tube. I got it at home depot for ~$20 and drilled holes in it and connected the ends using couple of plastic plugs. Then I found the Geo Bin (Amazon) for $39 which I guess beat me to the idea :)
It looks like blight and powdery mildew, I've had good results using Daconil your local Ace hardware should carry it. I also recommend using a biological fungicide as a soil drench and spray. Ace hardware: https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lawn-and-garden/lawn-care/fungicides/7098213 Biological fungicide: https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Garden-Friendly-Fungicide/dp/B014174BZM/ref=sr_1_13?crid=1P70SE17PK8AU&dchild=1&keywords=biological+fungicide&qid=1621882746&sprefix=biological+fun%2Caps%2C193&sr=8-13
It appears to have a fungal infections and of more than one type. I've had good results using Daconil your local Ace hardware should carry it. I also recommend using a biological fungicide as a soil drench and spray. Ace hardware: https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lawn-and-garden/lawn-care/fungicides/7098213 Biological fungicide: https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Garden-Friendly-Fungicide/dp/B014174BZM/ref=sr_1_13?crid=1P70SE17PK8AU&dchild=1&keywords=biological+fungicide&qid=1621882746&sprefix=biological+fun%2Caps%2C193&sr=8-13
Japanese beetles are somewhat susceptible to insecticidal soap it's not the same as regular household detergents. From CSU: https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/insects/insect-control-soaps-and-detergents-5-547/#:~:text=Larger%20insects%2C%20such%20as%20caterpillars,adverse%20effects%20on%20other%20organisms. insecticidal soap:https://www.amazon.com/Safer-Brand-5118-Insect-Killing/dp/B00192AO90/ref=sr_1_9?crid=Z0E1MONTHBDU&dchild=1&keywords=insecticidal+soap+concentrate&qid=1626618483&sprefix=insecticidal+soap+%2Caps%2C236&sr=8-9
You have to start them in peat pots corn doesn't tolerate having the roots disturbed at all I also use seedling warming mats
I have a mix! I did 16 from two packs of seeds and 8 from a harvested cucumber. I always try to leave one of the last of every fruit or veggie I harvest for the year as the one I pull seeds from.
For cucumber seed harvest, I will split the cucumber lengthwise and scrape out the seeds. I don't worry about how close to the seeds I get, but as little membrane/flesh as possible. I soak them in a cup of water for a few days, swirling occasionally. This helps separate the flesh and the seed. Then I strain it a few times so I'm left with some slightly water swollen seeds. I then spread them out on a hard surface to dry. I do NOT use paper towels as I find they dry and stick to the paper. I try to space them out as well - want good air flow to fully dry the seeds. Then I pack them up in a little envelope - I use these from Amazon Seed Packs and I'm happy with them.
Have to make sure your seeds are dry - once in the packet, if they have moisture they will cling to each other but also can grow a white mold. A little mold happens and your seeds are not necessarily ruined, but it can affect germination and the seeds can rot if there is a lot of moisture. I planted some tomatos (Big Boys) that I harvested that were not entire dried out even after a few days of sitting. They had some mold on them and I ended up planting 3-4 seeds that were stuck together per pot, and still had about 60% germination from them. It's just better if they are dry to avoid any risk.
I use the same process for tomatoes. For peppers, these are typically easier to separate from the membrane or flesh of the pepper, don't require soaking in water. Just scrape them out and let them dry a few days before putting in a baggy.
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I would say about 50% of what I planted (see my post history) is harvested from last year.
I have a 12X20 hoop house from Jewett Cameron the frame is quite sturdy made from galvanized steel pipe only caveat is the cover they come with is crap. I recovered mine with 5mil Solexx (10 years ago) and I've never had any problem with snow, it slides off, mostly. you should anchor it down with duck bill anchors (I used 6) it stayed put during a wind storm that snapped a 100 ft. spruce tree. The Solexx is expensive so I covered the bottom 3Ft. with Hardy board and put foam insulation on the inside
You have a fungus problem you should spray with a Chlorothalonil based fungicide Fungus pic https://hortnews.extension.iastate.edu/files/images/Lawn%20Ascochyta-Picture%203%20copy.jpg Fungicidehttps://www.amazon.com/Ortho-Garden-Disease-Control-Concentrate/dp/B00KYP5S9Y/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=ortho+garden+disease+control&qid=1597805931&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyM1kwVkxFOU0wUk1aJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTg1MDMzWUJTQzI0SEZYRUNDJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwNzExOTEzVVlQR0U4U0RNTVQwJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
This trap works wonders. I get hundreds of those little buggers a day in it. And it sure beats picking them off by hand. Just hang it up in a tree and sit back and let it do it’s thing. It has pheromones to attract male and female Japanese Beatles:
Sprinkle systemic rabbit repellant on them, it's the only thing I've found that dissuades the fluffy tailed spawn of Satan from eating them. https://www.amazon.com/Repellex-Systemic-Animal-Repellent-Granular/dp/B01N5JG6I6/ref=sr_1_3?crid=11FEBN160OJDH&keywords=repellex+systemic+granular+deer+%26+rabbit+repellent&qid=1669310909&sprefix=systemic+rabbit+%2Caps%2C100&sr=8-3
Try pond liner. It will absolutely smother the vines and cook the seeds. Leave it on until late winter then spread the topsoil, wildflower seeds and mulch.
It looks like blight, I've had good results using Daconil your local Ace hardware should carry it. I also recommend using a biological fungicide as a soil drench and spray. Ace hardware: https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lawn-and-garden/lawn-care/fungicides/7160542 Biological fungicide: https://www.amazon.com/Bonide-Revitalize-Fungicide-Concentrate-Ounce/dp/B076HW6S9K/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1RZI1ZURR1Y6D&keywords=biological+fungicide&qid=1659283742&sprefix=biological+fung%2Caps%2C108&sr=8-8
I have a small book that is sorted by color. It fits in my camelback and I can quickly look up flowers on my hikes. I love it
Mine is 15 years old now and taller than my 2 story house, they're great trees.
For maintenance I use put these into the trunk every 3'ish years: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DQUUSJO/ - they work well at keeping the chlorosis away.
It looks like a lack of water and disease, you need to water more frequently and treat the blight with a biological control Biological fungicide: https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Garden-Friendly-Fungicide/dp/B014174BZM/ref=sr_1_13?crid=1P70SE17PK8AU&dchild=1&keywords=biological+fungicide&qid=1621882746&sprefix=biological+fun%2Caps%2C193&sr=8-13
It looks like blight, I've had good results using Daconil your local Ace hardware should carry it. I also recommend using a biological fungicide as a soil drench and spray. Ace hardware: https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lawn-and-garden/lawn-care/fungicides/7098213 Biological fungicide: https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Garden-Friendly-Fungicide/dp/B014174BZM/ref=sr_1_13?crid=1P70SE17PK8AU&dchild=1&keywords=biological+fungicide&qid=1621882746&sprefix=biological+fun%2Caps%2C193&sr=8-13
https://www.amazon.com/GroBucket-Watering-sub-irrigated-Container-portable/dp/B089B7TCQ3
The reservoir is about 1 gallon.
It looks like tip blight. I've had success treating it with a biological fungicide. Biological fungicide: https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Garden-Friendly-Fungicide/dp/B014174BZM/ref=sr_1_13?crid=1P70SE17PK8AU&dchild=1&keywords=biological+fungicide&qid=1621882746&sprefix=biological+fun%2Caps%2C193&sr=8-13 More info:https://ag.umass.edu/landscape/fact-sheets/arborvitae-needle-blight
I've had good results with Jacks 10-30-20 fertilizer, peach trees also like slightly acidic soils, (It's alkali around here) adding sulfur to your soil will drop your Ph down to where the tree will be happier. Jacks:https://www.amazon.com/Peters-Classic-10-30-20-Blossom-Fertilizer/dp/B00JDRWFF4/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3FX47LYMYG48X&keywords=jacks%2Bfertilizer&qid=1654628537&sprefix=jacks%2Caps%2C111&sr=8-2&th=1 Soil acidifier: https://www.amazon.com/VPG-Fertilome-MR9SB-Soil-Acidifier/dp/B00YF3L2SC/ref=sr_1_2?crid=T96ZV7C0MPSY&keywords=liquid%2Bsulfur%2Bsoil%2Bamendment&qid=1654628898&sprefix=liquid%2Bsulfer%2Bsoil%2Bamendment%2Caps%2C89&sr=8-2&th=1
it looks like mildew I've had good results using a biological fungicide as both a soil drench and a foliar spray, it's a symbiotic organism that colonized the plant preventing the pathogens form getting established. Biological fungicide: https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Garden-Friendly-Fungicide/dp/B014174BZM/ref=sr_1_13?crid=1P70SE17PK8AU&dchild=1&keywords=biological+fungicide&qid=1621882746&sprefix=biological+fun%2Caps%2C193&sr=8-13
I have a bunch of 6-12" long bamboo sticks, but oddly enough never thought to use them as you described. I'm a pandemic gardener so, 2ish years experience and still much to learn!
I have a bunch (like 25') of window box planters along the base of my wooden fence. Last year I planted coleus along it. to protect them, I found 10x25' clear plastic sheets off Amazon (I'll link below) which I cut in half (so, 2 pieces 5' high x 25' long). I thought it would work great to push-pin the 5' high sheeting half way up the fence along an existing lateral wooden plank. I rolled up the sheet when it was sunny, and it was quick/easy to unpin and unroll it down to the ground (creating a right angle of hail protection) and that worked really well so I'm going to try that again (except this year I hung garden netting and planted morning glories which I hope will completely overtake my ugly fence with lush green leaves)!
Here's the plastic netting: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C31JJ35/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
OH... I meant this... https://www.amazon.com/Organic-Hydrolyzed-Liquid-Fish-Fertilizer/dp/B009CZH7UU?th=1
Not to say that may not help?! hahaha
This stuff it's systemic rabbit repellant, the rabbits/spawn of Satan, are after food this is the only thing I found that works it make your plants unpalatable to them. FYI do not put it on any thing you intend to eat. https://www.amazon.com/Repellex-Systemic-Animal-Repellent-Granular/dp/B01N5JG6I6/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3PIQMBUJE28JW&keywords=systemic+rabbit+repellent&qid=1650397039&sprefix=systemic+rabbit+reppelant+%2Caps%2C91&sr=8-5
A seedling heat mat will help the seeds need to be warm to germinate, I use these https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Waterproof-Seedling-Hydroponic-Standard/dp/B00P7U259C/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=3OLNGHB2HCHV0&keywords=seedling+heat+mat&qid=1649555632&sprefix=seedling%2Caps%2C129&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlw...
I have this one (https://www.amazon.com/Lifetime-60309-Double-Rotating-Composter/dp/B07N28CQ5Q) and you just undo the latches and turn it around in a cart or wagon Etc. I also screen mine to get the big pieces out, and toss them back in.
<strong>This is</strong> what I've been using for the past couple of years now, works very well for me. Prior I had an AcuRite that had an appetite for batteries so I switched & so far so good.
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Yes they are, they taste quite "citrusy" at least to me. Seeds:https://www.amazon.com/Lemon-Heirloom-Pepper-Premium-Packet/dp/B016Z856E0/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=aji+lemon+drop+lemon&qid=1634728521&qsid=140-8530678-5520964&sr=8-2&sres=B016Z856E0%2CB015LNTVP0%2CB00VBH4QJM%2CB01LYEB1QJ%2...
You have blight, this late in the season I would just dispose of it, don't compost it throw it in the trash. I the spring you should use a biological control (It's a symbiotic organism) as a soil drench to prevent reinfection. More info: https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/cucumber-squash-melon-other-cucurbit-diseases/ Biological fungicide: https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Garden-Friendly-Fungicide/dp/B014174BZM/ref=sr_1_13?crid=1P70SE17PK8AU&dchild=1&keywords=biological+fungicide&qid=1621882746&sprefix=biological+fun%2Caps%2C193&sr=8-13
Your best bet is to prune it back and treat the soil around it with a biological fungicide now and in the spring. Biological fungicide: https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Garden-Friendly-Fungicide/dp/B014174BZM/ref=sr_1_13?crid=1P70SE17PK8AU&dchild=1&keywords=biological+fungicide&qid=1621882746&sprefix=biological+fun%2Caps%2C193&sr=8-13
It looks like blight, although it may be too late it's quite advanced. I've had good results using Daconil your local Ace hardware should carry it. I also recommend using a biological fungicide as a soil drench and spray. In all honesty your probably best off cutting them down and disposing of them in the trash, (do not compost them) and using the biological control as a soil drench now and in the spring is going to be your best bet Ace hardware: https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lawn-and-garden/lawn-care/fungicides/7098213 Biological fungicide: https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Garden-Friendly-Fungicide/dp/B014174BZM/ref=sr_1_13?crid=1P70SE17PK8AU&dchild=1&keywords=biological+fungicide&qid=1621882746&sprefix=biological+fun%2Caps%2C193&sr=8-13
I would look into a foliar fertilizer to increase calcium, it will really help with the blossom end rot. Try something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Blossom-End-Tomatoes-Ounce/dp/B00UYSGBUG/
You need to feed it the leaves on zucchini should be dark green I would recommend using a balanced fertilizer i.e. 10-10-10 you should also supplement with chelated iron your local Ace hardware may have the fertilizer also Jacks https://www.amazon.com/Peters-Classic-20-20-20-Purpose-Fertilizer/dp/B00BIO560G/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2OZZTVHUKWD32&dchild=1&keywords=jacks+fertilizer&qid=1625091338&s=lawn-garden&sprefix=jacks%2Clawngarden%2C207&sr=1-2 chelated iron https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lawn-and-garden/gardening/plant-food/7299647
It looks like blight, the discolored leaves can be clue but there is limited info on blight on columbines. I've had good results using Daconil on other types of blight your local Ace hardware should carry it. I also recommend using a biological fungicide as a soil drench and spray. Ace hardware: https://www.acehardware.com/departments/lawn-and-garden/lawn-care/fungicides/7098213 Biological fungicide: https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Garden-Friendly-Fungicide/dp/B014174BZM/ref=sr_1_13?crid=1P70SE17PK8AU&dchild=1&keywords=biological+fungicide&qid=1621882746&sprefix=biological+fun%2Caps%2C193&sr=8-13
Most of it looks like water spots, however on the lowest leaf in the first pic is fungal mycelium and it appears to go all the way thru the leaf. I would remove that leaf, and I've had good success using a biological fungicide as both a soil drench (The spores are in the ground) and spray the organism in the fungicide colonizes the plant ahead of the fungus. Fungicide: https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Garden-Friendly-Fungicide/dp/B014174BZM/ref=sr_1_10?crid=ND6727KJ9SCB&dchild=1&keywords=biological+fungicide&qid=1623862076&sprefix=biological+fun%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-10
Echters garden center has it or you can get it from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Jacks-Classic-10-30-20-Blossom-Booster/dp/B009YOIABY/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Jack%27s+Classic+10-30-20+Blossom+Booster+8oz&qid=1620225998&sr=8-1
You could also plant moss rose between the flag stones, it only grows a few inches high and flowers most of the summer. 10,000 seeds for 9 bucks https://www.amazon.com/Outsidepride-Moss-Rose-Plant-Seed/dp/B004IAIVO0/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1PQ0RODGPLAOE&dchild=1&keywords=moss%2Brose%2Bseeds&qid=1620015243&sprefix=moss%2Brose%2Caps%2C203&sr=8-1-spons&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUX...
Yes! This edging tool I purchased so far is my favorite gardening tool. (link) I did make sure the sod was moist because that made cutting up into chunks easier. I then used the same tool to lift the sides up using leverage to loosen a chunk before just pulling out with my hands. I only removed about a foot of sod from inside the garden border to better contain the mulch. Planning to sheet mulch the rest with cardboard, compost and then wood mulch.
I met a ton of neighbors, including one that stopped by to ask if I knew what I was doing. She left satisfied with my answer so I guess I'm doing it right?
Yes, Nice bottles are only brand I've found that doesn't come unscrewed during processing. https://www.amazon.com/NiceBottles-Hot-Sauce-Bottles-Pack/dp/B00YB15OHS/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=NiceBottles+-+Hot+Sauce+Bottles%2C+5+Oz&qid=1602644332&sr=8-1
Mini green houses are great. I've often heard them referred to as ice boxes. This lady in Nova Scotia does year round gardening with ice boxes. I have a friend in Boulder who builds and installs ice boxes.. Personally, I enjoy the winter break. I'll cover my tomatoes and zinnias with a tarp and hope for the best. Sometimes the tarp keeps them warm enough during these short freezes. Other times it doesn't.
With out a pic I'd say probably you might try a different fungicide, they have different actions of control, you might also try a biological control as both a spray and a soil drench. Biological fungicide:https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Garden-Friendly-Fungicide/dp/B014174BZM/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=Biological+fungicide&qid=1596058747&sr=8-5
This one (Amazon link, currently unavailable). It came with stakes and tie-downs, but has ripped a little in the wind in the first few weeks. I reinforced the rips with packing tape on each side and it seems to be doing okay, but I'll probably want to do some more proactive taping of all the seams soon.