I'd recommend:
buying a bentley e30 manual https://www.amazon.com/BMW-E30-Service-Manual-1984/dp/0837616476/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519082032&sr=8-1&keywords=bentley+e30+manual
Buying a decent mechanic tool set, I just bought a 450 piece one off sears for $250 but any good rated amazon one for $70-$120 should do for basic stuff
Register on a good e30 forum like r3vlimited.com and look at the diy guides and info there
These seats i got from amazon, Right Here / I'm enjoying them far more then my torn up seats.
I actually bought THIS Dashcap from Amazon. It's actually very nice and looks OEM to an untrained eye, far better than my cracked dash.
I got these, I was able to put them on without any sanding, looks pretty cool, a lot better than the ugly yellow OEM beams, LED are safer and last longer Zmoon 5-3/4" 5.75 inch Round LED Motorcycle Headlight with 4 Light Modes, Compatible with Harley Davidson Iron 883 Dyna Sportster Softail Street Bob S https://www.amazon.com/dp/B087T7GZ1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_K55BX3vZlQMLE
These Temporary Seats I got from amazon because mine were too far gone. They're very very nice for the cost!
Mods sorry for posting thrice. Imgur didn't upload the correct pic the first time.
Posted the first picture a while back, got some pretty cool results with Prisma
Is the valve cover made of aluminum? You could try to dissolve the bolts using the alum trick. Just make sure whatever material the valve cover is made of won't be dissolved too (I know aluminum is safe, not sure about other metals).
Basically you make a cup around the broken bolt out of tape or something and fill it with a slurry of alum (available at any supermarket) and water. Let it sit for a week or so and the steel bolt should be dissolved.
I have been keeping an eye on the European market even and really mint examples are going for huge money. Heres an example of that an e30 vert mtech 2 for around 43k dollars https://www.gumtree.com/p/bmw/bmw-e30-325i-motorsport-m-tech-ii-2.5-auto-1990-86k-miles/1383511553
Its crazy in a couple years the e30 will be even more expensive we should hold on to what we have i learnt the hard way with my first 1 😉
I use the Kidde ones from Wal-Mart, but they have a plastic bracket my drift series doesn't allow. So I use this bracket: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002NC0N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_X6H98FC575R3EDXJVNYA
Did you replace the rubber brake lines that connect to the calipers? They could be swelling under pressure.
Did you do anything with the calipers? Check out the pistons? Replace the seals? A repair kit is super cheap.
As for bleeding to make sure there's no air, I do recommend using a power bleeder, just because it's easier. I fabbed up my own power brake bleeder so I could do it myself, but you can buy one pretty inexpensively. Definitely made brake fluid changes and bleeding easy. No more shouting to a friend to stomp the pedal, etc. Here's the Motive one on amazon: :https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-European-Bleeder-Adapter/dp/B0002KM5L0
If you want a shorter pedal distance, you may need to swap in a larger bore master cylinder like the M3 or E32 master cylinder with a 25mm bore (versus the 21mm & 19mm bore that came from the factory).
Kayme 6 Layers Car Cover Waterproof All Weather for Automobiles, Outdoor Full Cover Rain Sun UV Protection with Zipper Cotton, Universal Fit for Sedan (Up to 177") https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0749KYV4H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I recently did this with these GS Power's Chrome OEM style 5 inch Round (Acutal Size: 5.75") Glass Lens Housing H4 HID LED Halogen High Low Beam Headlight Lamp Conversion Replacement (2 pc) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F322727/
And these
HIKARI 2020, H4 9003 LED Headlight Bulbs, 150% Brightness, 100% Extra Night Visibility, TOP XHP50.2 LED 10400lm 6000K Cool White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XP2XJMS/
Works great!
Dont laugh, but this one
Its surprisingly good and the video and audio are clear and actually 1080p. And its only 20 bucks, and the FOV can see slightly through the back windows behind the b pillar, as well as the shifter and the gauges. I can read what speed i was going and what rpms im at when im sitting normally in the seat. Its mounted in the center at the top of the rear window.
Hope this info helped! I find its more functional capturing the inside of the car as well as out the windows.
You can buy a replica M3 evo front bumper/valance meant for E30 (non-M3), but it's not going to be OEM.
Here's a link to the Amazon listing
Dunno if you need to replace your front valance or not before you can attach this.
Edit: Didn't see your comment about seeing these fiberglass ones before.
Depends on the price but it looks interesting.
What makes this different than something like this? http://www.amazon.com/Kenu-Airframe-Portable-Smartphone-Mount/dp/B00D901B4W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1433830397&sr=8-3&keywords=air+vent+phone+holder
I had the same issue. Even with the proper sleeve for it.
I just put a short strip of foam with an adhesive back on it on the top. Just something I had lying around. Only about 1-2mm thick and 1cm wide. That did the job and the deck is still easily removable.
This sort of thing: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071RDDC2R/
I just used a cheap ball joint press like this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/DHA-Heavy-Joint-Press-Removal/dp/B088GY2VTS
You may be able to rent one for free at an auto parts place (I've heard enough people say that anyway).
I had no luck burning them out. But 20 seconds of propane torch on the ends made them pop out really easily with that too.
no they are sealed beam, you have to replace the whole unit, they cost like $12: https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-Lighting-H5006-Sealed-Beam/dp/B000CR3UXA/ref=sr_1_2?crid=2LPBV7XU8RAXA&keywords=e30+low+beam&qid=1668131556&sprefix=e30+low+beam%2Caps%2C100&sr=8-2
I got THIS ONE on Amazon for $100, and it is 1,000x better than the carpet cover I had. I think it's very well worth it.
I had the same issue as you. Could not get the code anywhere. Dealer gave a code that didn't work. In the end I just gave up and bought this Continental unit that is very popular amongst E30 owners since it doesn't look like a spaceship like most modern radios.
I can't complain about having Bluetooth tbh.
Amazon is where I got mine and it works as expected with my coupe.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Light-Conversion-Electric-Headlight-Adjustment/dp/B00BETM6JY
Looks pretty cool, never seen one in action though. I wonder if they even still work.
I got them FROM HERE on Amazon along with the Garagistic Seat mount adapter! Alil tough to line them up, needs leverage but they've held up very well in 9 months.
If you don’t feel comfortable putting the jack stands closer to the front along the pinch weld, I recommend you get rubber pads for your jack stands, like those. They work pretty well on E30s and help spread the load.
That's a good Product selling question because I didn't do anything, I actually bought a Dash cap off Amazon for around $100. And it looks so OEM that I recommend one to everyone that doesn't wanna restore the dash. Here's a link for it if you're interested
installs E36 hub components “None of that E36 offset garbage”
Do you see the issue there? Can’t have it all.
Trim the inner fenders and add some front camber. Low 20s for front offset on an 8 wide is about the best you can do without losing all your dish. If that’s too much poke you’ll want to up the offset though.
I poured in insane amount of research into this 5 lug setup and the associated wheel options and even acquired all the parts before I found a deal on a 4 corner BBK and scrapped 5 lug altogether.
Custom spec 3 piece wheels works to solve the issue but then you might as well have just gone E30 M3 bits.
Last option: just heard about this recently but know nothing about it. Doesn’t net you a brake size increase though.
https://www.amazon.de/-/en/dp/B07ZHH18LY
https://www.mapco.com/en/carparts/41523/mapco-15717-120c-brake-disc/
R12 to R134A AC Retrofit Fitting Adapter Kit, R12 R22 to R134A High/Low Fitting Port Retrofit 1/4’’ to 7/16"-20 UNF Conversion Adapter, Fits for AC Air Conditioner Refrigerant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SZKY6R1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_38PAN8AN4CFVT2P8RKRH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Someone likely added in some gasket maker on each side of the gasket before installing. Its just going to take some steady pressure to remove it. Once removed, I use this: https://smile.amazon.com/Lisle-22500-Thermostat-Gasket-Cleaner/dp/B0009OMYB0/ref=sr_1_8?crid=3PD21BRZ0BGJK&keywords=thermostat+gasket+cleaner+disc&qid=1653592550&sprefix=thermostat+%2Caps%2C105&sr=8-8 to clear off all of the gasket maker before reinstalling.
Get a telecom toner these work well in identifying cables. Unhook your speakers so you can identify all 4 speakers. You place the tone generator on a wire and then listen to it on the other end with the listener. It saves a lot of time. I do phone systems and this is one of the tools we use when i'm in a commercial building.
Tone Generator Kit, Wire Tracer Circuit Tester, 200EP High Accuracy Cable Toner Detector Finder Tester, Line Finder ,Inductive Amplifier, Probe Kit with Adjustable Volume for Network Cable Collation https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09QGLNLNJ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_D7NYWSXGYN203ZFEJA6K
One of my window switch bulbs was burnt out so I decided to go all the way and replace them with LEDs. I used these mini LEDs with built in resistors so they can run on 12v power. I just had to grind down the lower lip they have with a dremel to to fit them in the holder. They’re polarized unlike the incandescent bulbs so you may wish to test them with a 12v power supply to make sure they’re inserted the right way before you seal the switch up.
I have used this fabric dye: https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00GLSOI26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GPJFPWKPXQAXB12D1CYX
I don’t know if this is available in your location. And for the materials I just bought the cheapest paint roller I could find at my local hardware store.
Get one of these and hook it up to an air compressor. No need to pay the mechanic to bleed it. You won't ever have to manual bleed a cooling system again. :)
https://www.amazon.com/UView-550000-Airlift-Cooling-Checker/dp/B0002SRH5G
I used these pliers to get that same clip off. lock ring pliers
I currently have this cheap one off Amazon, I had to wrap the shaft with a little bit of tape to snug up the fit but overall it's great quality for the price. Not sure on longevity but it still looks new after almost 2 years.
I'll probably make a wood one on the lathe soon though, not because I dislike the one I have but because I like using parts that I made myself.
Second this. Plus Gummi Pflege on the seals. Also, buy a few of these... Pingi REUSABLE CAR DEHUMIDIFIER MOISTURE REMOVING BAG (2 PACK) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B018XJSUD8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6KH65E5K2YGV9WFX844N
I went with a wooden Nardi shift knob to match a wooden steering wheel.
Bought years ago, but looks like they’re about $125 on Amazon or eBay.
Nardi Gear Shift (Shifter) Knob - Prestige - Real Mahogany Wood - Part # 3220.50.0000 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004CHMVM2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J0AG0FX464K8XXC3JR3Y
The Bentley E30 manual is the best repair and maintenance resource for E30s, the electrical information is super helpful. However, it does not include the ix drivetrain, and a couple other things specific to the AWD model. For example, the engine bay layout is a little different, the battery is in the trunk, the driveshaft is reverse threaded (that was a frustrating weekend), oil pan and pump is unique, etc.
Most of it is the same as a 325is, just be aware that there are differences before you order parts and jump into repairs. So far it hasn't been anything critical and I've found plenty of information on forums like r3vlimited.
i ordered these and theyve worked fine. all i had to do was poke holes in it every 6in or so the doors close easier.
Bit pricey, but another option could be the new Blaupunkt Bremen's that are designed to look like the original radios. But with better amp, DAB radio etc.
I wouldn't say for an issue like this a compression test is a end all be all. Id also do a coolant sniffer test
https://www.amazon.com/Block-Tester-BT-500-Combustion-Leak/dp/B06VVBSFTF
can be rented at auto zone. Just need to buy the fluid
Fits: BMW 3 Series E30 Convertible Soft top 1987-1993 325i, 320i, 318i M3 Black Twill Vinyl https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0155PT7W6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_SJN0037HV2AADQHXR1CH had good reviews and shipped super fast, and it came packaged carefully, i’ll update when i install it
No. 10W means exactly that. Back in the day, (and it's still around just not as comoon) they made 10W oil.
It can be a little tricky if it's your first time. You have to take off all the coolant hoses, fan clutch, belts, and some other accessories from the front of the engine. The fan clutch and water pump pulley can be a pain if you don't have something like this.
If you intend for this to be a car that you wrench on and do most of the work yourself, then do it yourself. It's a good starting point for learning about the motor. If you just want to drive it and don't care about the work, just take it to a shop.
Sure. Cheap voltmeters came from Amazon. Pull the panel out and wiggle the connector until it comes loose. I dremeled out a path for the wires to go through the bottom most light bulb socket, then hot glued the volt meter in place.
Remove the four tiny screws on the car end of the plug to expose the wiring. Brown wire is ground. Make sure it is just brown, the two other brown wires in that photo are actually brown/black and brown/yellow. Then using a multimeter, find which pin is hot in accessory. Solder on the back side of the circuit board in the corresponding locations. I didn't do my due diligence and had to resolder, as shown in the second picture. Didn't take a picture of the final soldering.
For the faceplate, I marked off the location of the volt meter with a pencil on the inside, then taped it off with painters tape. Use a q-tip and acetone to gently rub the paint away from where you want the window to be.
Reassemble everything, reinstall the panel, and test it out.
E30 advert advert
Is it this one? Supermaxx
You said paint and primer in one, so you didn't buy a separate can of primer?
This might work never tried it. Biggest issues will be the seat adjustments not being accessible or getting in the way. This book has an article about it and states that its not possible. You can dis assemble the seat and use the center sections as well as the passenger side inner bolsters and transfer them to a driver side frame. The passenger side outer bolsters will have holes where the lever and adjustments are so those won’t work on the driver side.
This might work never tried it. Biggest issues will be the seat adjustments not being accessible or getting in the way. This book has an article about it and states that its not possible. You can dis assemble the seat and use the center sections as well as the passenger side inner bolsters and transfer them to a driver side frame. The passenger side outer bolsters will have holes where the lever and adjustments are so those won’t work on the driver side.
For sake of conversation, I picked up these for putting the car high up:
Always felt more comfortable under them when the car was up high than the typical jack stand.
If you have a fully functional factory head unit, just keep it. Buy a Bluetooth tapeAmazon link
The Blaupunkt option is great but definitely comes with a hefty pricetag. The continental VDO head unit definitely has an 80’s look to it especially if you get the silvers painted black and is much more friendly to the Wallet. VDO Continental TR7412UB-OR European Style 12v Radio Orange Display Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08D2R48HZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Y6N85S5AX5N8SGJ7BS0F
Hey everyone, since I've been humbled with the great comments I'm gonna give this subreddit a discount code on the gear. Heres the link with a discount coupon embedded!
There you go : https://www.swisstransfer.com/d/26c04541-67d4-420b-96b1-7b57c26c8e88
The link is valid 7 days and limited to 200 downloads if I've read the conditions correctly.
I dont think you looked hard enough for the parallel flow condenser APDI 7013464 A/C Condenser https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007ZOESL6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_D31EAQERJCP594RS1TMF
But other then that doing a total rebuild is expensive and time consuming. If you know for sure that all your parts work just try and fix the leaks. There are refrigerants that also come with sealer to help find and close leaks.
If your car uses r12 refrigerant you could always just retrofit to r134a and just replace the drier and condensor. The A/C compressor doesnt really care what refrigerant runs through it. You just need to make sure you replace the oil inside with POE oil or else the compressor will die quickly.
Doing a retro fit is cheaper and works just the same. Many other post on here and other forums to can help with the process.
It's an 80mm material from Amazon. I had heard good things about it and it being up there with the expensive stuff as far as quality.
This is what I used.
KILMAT 80 mil 36 sqft Car Sound Deadening Mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0751CBXBT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_G113QJG232NWRE1MXMCW
Probably around 30lbs with the two boxes. Of course! I got it from Amazon.
KILMAT 80 mil 36 sqft Car Sound Deadening Mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0751CBXBT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_G113QJG232NWRE1MXMCW
For the wires I used a generic set from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRK7DMT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_8260X05VRHG6STAA4BW6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1Oh
As for the plugs on the coil side I used these terminals: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WV7ZZFZ/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_glt_fabc_7ZNPCCWHT409BCD046SV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Deutsch 6-pin Connector Kit W/housing, Terminals, Pins, and Seals 14-16 Gauge Crimp Style Terminals https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B4FDBLK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GFPMD60JJ5KST122TCE1 This one you don’t need the special tool but it’s much more of a pain in the ass
JRready ST6115 DT 6 Pin Connector Gray Waterproof Electrical Wire Connector with 14-16 AWG Contact and Seal Plug,3 Sets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VF2WWZ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_68FNA8NWZ80G0W0HKH5Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Never installed, but this is the plug…
Deutsch DT 6-pin Pigtail Kit 14AWG Pure Copper GPT Wire, Made in USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FTDS23L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VYNRWDNRP63532PHV0FR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Never installed, but seems decent…
Deutsch DT 6-pin Pigtail Kit 14AWG Pure Copper GPT Wire, Made in USA https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FTDS23L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VYNRWDNRP63532PHV0FR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Buy THIS Remove fan shroud, put car in gear use purchased tool. Remember that the fan clutch is reverse threaded (lefty tighty right loosey)
well, being honest with you, it depends on the spacer. there are hubcentric spacers that are specifically made for certain vehicles (given their dimensions), so since E30s have a 57.1mm hub as we all know, you should get a hubcentric spacer with a 57.1mm hub so you can use the hubcentric rings you purchased. I was running these spacers and machined 1mm out of the hub because they come with a 56.1mm hub.
I purchased This one from Amazon. I would highly recommend. It only took about 4 days to get to me in Texas. Fits enough to look OEM from an untrained eye for the price, 100x better then my cracked dashed. This is how it looks
Ohh haha no problem. I got this one from Amazon Right Here It's actually very very nice for the price, to the untrained eye it looks oem, ive had people ask if its an uncracked dashed. Also only took 2-3 days to ship! Definitely better than the cloth cover i had over my cracked dash.
Here it is on Amazon but you can likely find it cheaper elsewhere. Probably lots used on r3vlimited and eBay. And if you didn’t know about the r3vlimited forums, definitely check it out. LOADS of info including DIY repair procedures.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/0837616476/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_FKFA0MZFGBXF3KJKKX77
VDO Continental TR7412UB-OR European Style 12v Radio Orange Display Bluetooth https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08D2R48HZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_KIDYFbKY0D8G6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This looks like it to me
You've already done the hardest part of cleaning away the old stuff.
3 packs of this only ran me $100
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CBK48XN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Used a small wooden roller to install.
Meguiar's wheel cleaner worked quite well for me with getting some old brake dust off, pretty inexpensive too. Just get a good wheel brush also to really get in all the corners in the weaves.
I have KYB Gas-A-just rear shocks from a camaro on mine (stiffer than the e30 ones) paired with some H&R OE sport springs. Great for lowered cars and cheap as heck.
They're only $38 a piece shipped on Amazon prime.
https://www.amazon.com/KYB-KG5562-Gas-a-Just-Gas-Shock/dp/B000C3ZDV6
You have to install a bushing/sleeve to mount them as the Camaro uses a larger bottom bolt than the e30. However, this can be made from some 3/8" pipe from any hardware store.
Been running this on my car for 2 years and definitely recommend it. If I had extra money, I'd go with the AGX adjustable versions, but these are great for now.
That’s what I could find in America on amazon.
Save yourself $20-30 and get a set off Amazon. These have survived two fan removals for me, and make decent pry bars as well. You may want to wrap the handles, the machining left them slightly sharp. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J5N6EVQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
warning. long links are long. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072M33C5F/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Congrats! but... it doesn't actually have a lot of rust, right?
And Bentley for manual.
I'm working on a list of general E30 info. Feel free to message me about things that should be added!
FYI on Bentley - only 4 left!!!
The link for the radio is... Car Stereo with Bluetooth Single din in Dash Car Stereo Receiver car Radio, Stereo for car, FM Radio, Support USB/SD/AUX wiress Remote Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CS6FWRE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HYkhFbM9FKN4Z
Does your tape deck work? if so, then you can get a Bluetooth cassette from Amazon. Easiest way to get Bluetooth with a factory unitBluetooth cassette
There aren't a lot of reviews, but Amazon shows 4.5 stars for that kit, can't be that bad. https://www.amazon.com/URO-Parts-E36-8PCKIT-Suspension-Kit/dp/B00BQS9NDU/
Always check Amazon reviews for stuff regardless of where you buy it.
I bought some off brand stuff from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B75TBCV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This brand isn't available anymore but you can find similar weight stuff on Amazon.
I did the rear interior side panels (I have a previous post about this), the back seat, the trunk floor and sides.
I'm going to pull the carpets and do the floor later this summer. I didn't cover everything wall to wall because of weight and cost, though. Typically individual pieces are enough to change the resonant frequency of the metal panels. But there are tons of opinions about this.
I bought this from Amazon a few months ago:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B75TBCV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Looks like it isn't available anymore, but there is similar stuff available on Amazon.
I added some sheets behind the rear side panels, the back seat back rest and bottom cushion and trunk spare tire cradle and side walls. I might pull the carpet and add some to the floor as part of a larger project this summer.
I didn't completely cover the car because of weight (and cost) and from what I've read, you're trying to minimize vibration with this type dampening material and you don't necessarily need to completely cover every surface. I figure I can always go back and add more with smaller pieces, it just won't look super professional (but I'm not super or professional, so that's okay, too).
I'm going to replace the front door cards and add insulation today and hopefully take it out for a drive this evening or tomorrow. Will report back.
Red Line RED60103 15 Ounce Complete Si-1 Fuel System Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPI5Z0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EU6PDb8WV4FQM
I used this to narrow down my issue to whether it was just carbon after all the work, turns out it was just carbon and my injectors being a little dirty
Bam. Awesome game plan. I live in the northeast. Would the 80 deg (C) t-stat be what I'm after given that we've now got snow on the ground? We don't have many 90 deg+ days here in the summer, though they do occur.
EDIT: Found this one on Amazon with high res pics. They are stamped with the temp. https://www.amazon.com/MAHLE-ORIGINAL-TX2780D-Thermostat-Insert/dp/B00DQ8NMZI/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1542578894&vehicle=1990-31-174-20--7-6-7-454-168-1-1---1-0&sr=1-1&ymm=1990%3Abmw%3A325is&keywords=thermostat
EDIT 2: 80 deg C is the OEM. I'll go with that.
Yes, you can adjust the relay terminal that way.
There are special tools to remove the push-in pins/terminals from the plugs. You can find them on amazon, etc. Not sure which exact ones you need but I know these work for other terminals.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0719N297G/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_7?smid=A3G4BHAI7BWOKN&psc=1
I have this one:
I never use the CD portion of my CD player. Requires placing a metal plate on the back of your phone/inside your phone case. The only downside is that you can no longer use wireless charging as the plate blocks it.
Or, buy a tool designed for this.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G4YUWMC/ref=psdc_14244461_t1_B075S1QC6R
There are cheaper ones, but a logic probe can provide power to any circuit to test them. Also an extremely useful tool for any electrical diagnostics.
If they are 14s, I believe these center caps will work. Maybe you can find them cheaper but I have these wheels on one of mine as well. They look niiiiice, but I also like the bottle caps.
BMW 36-13-2-225-622 - OEM Part https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FRKQVLE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ly24AbS3V58D5
If it's a guaranteed 3-4 months, no worries. However, when it's out of sight out mind, your timeline may stretch and it'll become 6-8 months, etc.
So your gas doesn't turn to varnish if it does end up sitting longer than you expected, add some Sta-Bil.
https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22214-Fuel-Stabilizer-oz/dp/B000B68V6I
You can get this pretty much anywhere.
Thanks! I went with this set, seemed pretty all inclusive but after going through these posts I think I'm gonna need to buy a few more things.
That’s a good call, thanks so much for letting me me know.
The PO filled me in on the details and can confirm that it starts with starter fluid. Unfortunately, I broke the fuel sock off of the hanger currently in the car, so I would need one regardless.
Funnily enough I had already ordered a Bosch fuel pump.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BZJB7M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.KMDAbXCPM5WE
I’m assuming these are compatible with each other, but some reviews state the fuel hanger pipes are too close to the sender unit, which is what I’m hoping someone else here would know.
The stock system has gaskets at the stock exhaust manifolds-to-downpipe but uses metal donuts between the pipes otherwise. Called gaskets, but are really compression donuts. They can be reused unless you see visible damage that may allow the gases to escape on the outside. i.e. cuts, severe pitting, etc. They're only $2 a piece or so if you want to change them.
Alternatively, you could buy a can of Permatex copper high temp gasket sealer and spray them down to seal up those imperfections for added reassurance.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80697-Gasket-Hi-Temp-Adhesive/dp/B000HBNUDQ
Not completely. You have to install rivnuts in the subframe and in the framerail. You have to install rivnuts in the subframe for any manufacturers x brace though. Using the e36 M3/z3 cross brace mounts on the frame rather than on the control arm bushing mounts for e30 specific ones.
I bought a rivnut installation tool for other projects so I already had one on hand. You can get cheap aluminum rivnuts from harbor freight, but I wouldn't recommend them. I'd go with steel ones.
This is the one I have:
And you'd want to get these (you need 4x M8 and 2x M12, IIRC) style rivnuts:
You can buy this fogging oil to spray into your cylinders (through the spark plug hole) to lubricate the cylinders prior to startup.
https://www.amazon.com/STA-BIL-22001-Fogging-Oil-av/dp/B000H7CKAY
I highly recommend doing this and hand turning it over a few times. Also, be sure to lubricate your camshaft as well. I like to use ZDDP additive so I coated each rocker and the camshaft lobes with it.
You can possibly prime the oil pump too, but that requires removing the cover and trying to turn the pump with a long driver that will bypass the gear on the intermediate shaft. I haven't been able to do it.
Keyless entry, sonnnnnnnnnnnnn.
I have that issue (mine is more so due to crappy cut key copies) and then had my ignition lock break so now I have a different ignition key than my doors and trunk.
Anyway, I bought this keyless door entry kit from Amazon for $17 shipped. It taps into your preexisting central locks.
Here's a pic of mine in my trunk Terrible picture, but you can see it's not too bad. Just need some crimps and quick-splices. I used 3M double sided tape (the one made for car emblems) to hold it to my trunk panel behind the carpeted cover.
The factory setup is a reversing polarity system (the two wires to the solenoid will flip from +/- to -/+), so in the instructions you need to look at the instructions that correspond with that. I tapped into my antenna power for constant 12v.
Super easy and worth every penny!
The roof is probably going to just get totally replaced with a new one since a new one is only $480 on Amazon. There's also a few other less expensive ones on there too. I don't think it needs to be lowered any more than it is, especially since my next apartment complex has speedbumps that are just a bit bigger than normal :( Also, it rides PERFECTLY. I can throw it around a corner and it doesn't have any (feelable) body roll, and it just lets you guide it how you want, and I don't feel like I'm compressing my spine over bumps in the road.
I regret to inform you that I'd like to keep this car forever if at all possible. But hey, if you're ever in central Texas, hit me up and I'll take you for a spin :)
Get a cheap universal one off ebay for $15. Tap into your trunk wiring to the solenoid. It will piggyback to your factory central locking (assuming it works).
Minimal wiring and can be removed in minutes
Edit:
Here's one for $16 shipped from Amazon (prime).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006QH9C5A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You can find writeups all over the interwebz
Locks: just fit an alarm with central locking function.
Radio: Measure the resistance across the speakers to see if they still function, as a first go. I'd go original. You can maybe get a kit to provide an iPod aux input function, do a google.
Foam: It's louder without the foam, that's all. Be sure the paint is still intact if you peel it off.
Hubcaps: You mean the small centres for 14" bottle top alloys? http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=1315-EUR-06-1988-E30-BMW-316i&diagId=36_0039 part #6? https://www.amazon.com/GENUINE-BMW-36131114180-Wheel-Cover/dp/B009PXCIK8 Just google the part number.
Foglights: you don't need them, they do very little to improve lighting. Get Osram Nightbreaker headlight bulbs instead, same wattage but much brighter and legal.
Throttle body cover, you don't need it. Purely cosmetic.