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Internet is full of descriptions of why the loop connect does not work. And I stress, does not work. I got error message saying that it wont connect to the piece of hardware. Talked to support, and got some basic solutions and it just is what it is atm, they say they are working on it, but then I found this free software that gives much better control for my fans and pump than that garbage loop connect software did: https://github.com/Rem0o/FanControl.Releases no need to even install anything, just download zip and run .exe file. I tried to use it only to manage my LED's but the options there are ridiculous even the half an hour that it works, so I bought Razer LED controller that gives such control over ARGB that probably EK-Connect will never give you... So.. at this moment in time, don't waste your money on it, it won't even start up.
I bought this a while ago. It's cheap and comes with a nice variety of screws including the ones you need:
Not ideal, but as long as you used the right pad thicknesses everywhere it won't hurt anything. One thing I always do is wrap the side areas of my blocks with vinyl to hide the exposed sections of PCB from sight. Here's what my last Alphacool GPU block looks like with white vinyl wrap on it. You could do the same with yours using matte black vinyl wrap instead if it really bothers you, or just mount the block vertically so the backside is facing the motherboard.
Hey! I'm considering buying an EK AIO as well, but I'm also having a hard time finding a quick solution for the LGA1700 upgrade kit.
I found one here on Amazon.ca - but shipping comes from Austria, so you might as well order it directly from EK. I can't seem to find it anywhere else. If anyone knows a retailer that carries these in stock, please comment!
You can stack as many as you want, but why would you do that and not just use a section of tubing, that's kinda the point of the tubing. If you are not confident bending your own or don't have the tools, you can buy pre-bent sections of tubing like this. For runs that would normally need more than one bend, you can just couple together with 90s.
Yes, I found this, do you think it's okay?
Sorry for italian amazon... :)
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Try a different RGB header if you can, did you test the RGB strip in the GPU block at all before putting it into the build to make sure it actually works first? If not, you could try buying one of these to at least test it out, then just return it when you're done if you end up not needing it.
haven't done it myself but EK does offer a 120mm mounting bracket. Maybe McGuyver it by using a 120mm to 140mm fan mount?
That’s very weird, because I did the exact same thing you did one month ago. I just checked Amazon and I see that the bracket itself is still there. It could be that it’s not available in your location or just a glitch. I’ll send a link to the bracket. https://www.amazon.com/EKWB-EK-Quantum-Velocity-Backplate-LGA1700/dp/B09MBC5XYH
A little late, but you can just buy a decently-large hub that takes 1 4-pin fan and ARGB header in per "port/fan," then it'll just send 1 fan connection and 1 ARGB connection to the motherboard, then you can control it with your motherboard. Something like this.
If you want coolant temp control, you can buy a 2-pin motherboard-compatible temperature sensor (not the EK one) and fit that in somewhere, then use FanControl to control fan speed based on coolant temp.
There is a pumpless sku if thats what youre referring to...
https://www.amazon.com/EKWB-EK-Quantum-Kinetic-Reservoir-Included/dp/B09FBSVLP6
Canada: https://www.dazmode.com/shop/watercooling/ek-quantum-kinetic-flt-80-d5-ddc-body-d-rgb-plexi/
go to that link and look at the PCB, if it matches yours (besides the two extra mem chips of course), your good to go.
Right on. If you are looking for clear, I just used this in my build and it’s really clear Koolance LIQ-702CL-B 702 Liquid Coolant, High-Performance, Colorless, 700ml (24 fl oz) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004YFA3AO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_TRFJPV151JJS46SMYJNC
Try buying a few of these. Wrap it around the fitting and twist away! They help immensely with getting a good grip on the fitting, and also help to keep your fingers from getting torn up by any knurling.
They're also great for opening jars.
I also second the Aquasuite recommendation, not sure what the cheapest controller is from Aquacomputer, but I also use a Farbwerk 360 that works great and has a ton of features. Or if you just want a super cheap way to connect it, maybe try something like this Sata powered controller
You can order the AIO kit and it works great as well.
EK AIO LGA 1700 Upgrade Kit, Water Cooling Computer Parts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K82YATC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_2XM1RMSGM9B0WPB1HK6T?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
So the pictures don’t show everything you get but you get the LGA1700 bracket, and ALL the hardware you need (M3 screws, Thumb screws, springs, everything) to mount the EVO block to the motherboard. I have it on my computer with the 12700K and temps are very good. I took the risk of buying the AIO LGA1700 kit bc I’m a very impatient person and I was able to get it faster. But it does work for the Waterblock this topic is about.
I have the same configuration as you(and as the guy in the picture.
There is only one vertical mount that goes this high and has clearance, LINKUP vertical mount PCIe 4.0
LINKUP Vertical GPU Mount Loop Bracket Graphic Card Holder with LINKUP Ultra PCIe 4.0 X16 Gen4 Riser Cable 90 Degree Right Angle 15cm Black Kit
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0942BLMNF?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
Works perfectly with my 3090 @ PCI-e 4.0 16x. I honestly would rather have it horizontally but unfortunately the active backplate does not fit into the Maximus z690 Extreme due clearance with the SSD heatsink / OLED screen.
Draining is actually quite easy. I've ran this rad config for a while now and know exactly what tube to disconnect first :P
yes if a PWM pump receives no PWM signal, it will default to 100%, which is totally fine. I run mine at around 65% and that's fast enough to keep my coolant temp in check. You have a few options for coolant temp sensors, you can add an in-line flow and temp sensor, or you can get one of the G1/4 plug style temp probes that just go into an empty port in your reservoir, this is what I did, and I actually have two of them, they aren't the most accurate things in the world, so I just take the average temps between the two probes, one is always about 2-3 deg higher than the other.
here you go, this is what I used to connect the Lian Li Strimmers to my Commander Pro, it will work for connecting any standard 5v 3-pin RGB cable to a Commander Pro. It only comes in a 2-pack btw
I’m thinking using a really short 5cm riser cable to just drop the height of the GPU. You should technically still be able to use the case brackets for horizontal mount as long as you can push the riser to the motherboard.
LINKUP - Ultra PCIe 4.0 X16 Riser Cable [RTX3090 RX6900XT x570 B550 Z590 Tested] Shielded Extreme High-Speed Vertical Mount Gaming PCI Express Gen4┃Left Angle Socket {5cm} 3.0 Gen3 Compatible https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09649WD9R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_TXCXA9DFJH0C69ANR5GZ?psc=1
Thermalright Extreme 1mm Big sheet
I ordered one of each size. Three of the smaller sheets is just enough for padding the entire 3090 but it doesn’t leave much room for mistakes. The big and small sheet together are about the same price as three small sheets but it gives you a good bit more pad to work with.
If you already can read other temperatures from the motherboard with any software you plan to use, then the additional header would also work. It is just a regular "empty" spot for a sensor connected to the sensor chip, which is used to read all temperature data (and fan speeds, and also to set fan speeds).
More generally, this depends on the motherboard, what sensor chip it has and if the manufacturer allows it's chip to be red directly. Some manufacturers may try to lock the user to their software only. OS is also a factor - generally, there seems to be more reverse-engineering efforts for Windows than Linux. Also, on Linux side, in-Kernel drivers want to be safe to use (which means: they will not implement anything which is not documented or has anything hinting towards something being unsafe to do) - but on Windows, almost all sIO software is made by third parties, which do not usually have similar policies enforced.
See: https://github.com/LibreHardwareMonitor/LibreHardwareMonitor https://wiki.archlinux.org/title/Lm_sensors
FanControl with HWInfo64 add-in works well for me to control my fans and pump based on coolant sensor temp. You can make time-averaged readings and make all sorts of curves and even adjust the ramp up/down speeds. Extremely useful, it replaced Argus in my system.
https://github.com/Rem0o/FanControl.Releases
HWInfo can read the motherboard temp sensor and then FanControl can use it as an input. if you load the add-in and enable "Share Memory Support" in HWInfo settings.
You might just need to disable monitoring on most of the sensors in HWInfo since I've found FanControl loses connection to HWInfo if too many sensors are running. Currently my HWInfo is monitoring only 15 sensors and it's not having issues.
Also make sure to use HWInfo older than V7.xx since from V7 they've made "Share Memory Support" a paid feature.
If you want to use iCUE for none corsair stuff you have to buy lighting node pros (extra ones) and adapter cables.
The EK Block calls for 1mm pads for front and back. I used Gelid Extreme Pads because they are much better than the stock pads, while being about the same Hardness/Softness so that they mold around the components like the stock thermal pads. Don't use the Ultimates as they are way too Hard and don't compress like they should with the block.
Phanteks PH-VGPUKT_02 – Universal Vertical GPU Bracket with 220mm Flat Line Pci-E X16 Riser Cable Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MW73HTJ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_MVG3048NHQQR2CQNH9YT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
To mount the FLT 240 you will need the EKWB EK-Loop Angled Bracket, 120mm which will attach to the 240mm XProto liquid cooling module.
EKWB EK-Loop Angled Bracket, 120mm
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08D2YVWP7/
No leak issues at all, surprising as it was my first custom loop build
I did a lot of research on the coolant and didn't find any that really stood out so since I did all EKWB stuff I just went with EKWB EK-CryoFuel Premix PC Coolant
Being open case liquid cooled the temps are ridiculously good, I have run load tests for many hours and it barely heats up. Better than any system I have ever tested.
For pcie 4.0, buy from these folks on Amazon. May want to get a shorter or longer cable... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B091Q95ZXM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. Mine arrived last week and works without a hitch.
I think so... I got a bit confused because I found it on Amazon, and the wording of the product was just terrible: https://www.amazon.com/Lian-Li-O11DXL-1-Vertical-O11Dynamic/dp/B07ZB1C5DV/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=lian+li+gpu+mount&qid=1622134892&sr=8-2
I used these padshere. I needed 2 packages to cover vram on the front and back. I currently have 3 x 360mm rads in my setup and I use EK’s TBE D5 pump. Fittings are more of an aesthetic choice, pick what you like.
No, my fans came with D-RGB y-splitter cables. I just plugged multiple ones together to get the number of connectors I needed. An RGB hub should work. Otherwise you could do something like this.
It depends on what you want to measure it with. I’m using an octo from aqua computer to control my fan speed based on the water temp. It has a couple of temperature sensors inputs on it. My motherboard also has a couple of temperature sensors inputs. They are set up for 2pin 10k resistance type sensors.
I actually just ordered one of these sensors
If you want a display, I would suggest the high flow NEXT. Its got a flow sensor, temp sensor, RGB, a water quality sensor, etc etc. It can be difficult to get one but it is awesome.
Thanks. I'm gonna try the Gelid since they have them in 2mm and similar watt displacement. https://www.amazon.com/Gelid-Solutions-GP-Ultimate-120x20x2-0mm-Installation/dp/B08PKXNXCF/ref=sr_1_6?crid=QAO1J5YIQSJM&dchild=1&keywords=gelid+thermal+pad&qid=1617118167&s=electronics&sprefix=gelid%2Celectronics%2C175&sr=1-6
Ah, bummer. Looks like the secret is out. Could you stack 2x 1mm pads? Stupid question? ie: 2 of these? https://www.amazon.com/Iceberg-Thermal-DRIFTIce-80mm-2-0mm/dp/B08KWLLJCR?th=1
Encounterlove 5V 3Pin to 12V 4Pin RGB HUB 5V to 12V Motherboard Light RGB Converter Device with Adapter Cable for RGB 3PIN M/B Gigabyte and MSI https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YJTR8VV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WGSGG6DHBKMKX5KAB2YJ
I wouldn't put constant sata power on the pump. The first option with a twist seems better. I would Use the CPU_FAN for the pump, the CPU_OPT for the AIO fans and something like this for the case fans...
Then no, not with the board itself. But lucky you, I know what you can use.
What you're looking for is called a DAC - Digital to Analog Converter. Usually a DAC is used in reference to audio, but in this case, just such a product does exist for rgb 5v digital to 12v analog. Behold, the Solarity ArrRGB DAC.
It's not cheap, it is super specialized, but as far as I'm aware it is the only product like it.
Curious to see if anyone has an answer, I searched for one as well a while ago and never found anything. What I ended up using was an XSPC 10k wire sensor, and taping it to the outside of the tubing. It's certainly not ideal, but it's worked well enough for me to use it to control radiator fan speed.
EK ended up wanting me to RMA the entire block. I didn't want to be without a distro plate for a few weeks and my system down so i said nah and bought LEDs of my own and replaced them. They hook up to a NZXT usb hub I use then to my motherboard and are controllable in iCUE with some fiddling.
I bought the leds on amazon - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R6LR7DK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1. Whatever you get just make sure they are ultra thin, the specs on these are fine. Otherwise they won't fit inside the channel in the distro plate.
Oh I also think I am using an adapter. I'll open my case in the next few days and look.