You need a 4mm male to 3.5mm adapter. I used this one. BDHI No Wires 4mm Male to 3.5mm Female Bullet Plug Adapter Connector for RC ESC Motor(B117-5) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z4FRQNX/ref=cm_sw_r_u_apa_glt_fabc_G4K01PP5F3NV7ZPQP9VG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
In the comments some people had issues with Petg sticking too well to the surface, so just beware :)
Hi Ted, what do you think to this? I can get it without waiting 6 weeks ..
https://www.amazon.com.au/gp/product/B09BTG1P7K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
absolute garbage. no spring power whatsoever
I would not say it is difficult to build but it will be time consuming, between printing parts, post processing and assembling them. But it is part of the fun 🙃 Be sure to follow the assembly guide on this sub and take time to understand every part's purpose. I had to trim some holes to be sure the screws will pivot freely inside. And some others need to be tight in order to secure the screws.
And while we are talking about other 3d printed RCs, you can take a look at the ones created by a Norwegian guy : the mk ultra and the veltro. The veltro chassis is free, but you can buy from the creator a Toyota mr-2 body and a Lancia delta one. These two models look more complicated, with more parts to source like gears, belts, etc. And they lack proper instructions to assemble them.
If you dont have modeling software, you might look into OnShape. You can get a free account if you are okay with all your models being available to the public.
I'm also building my first Tarmo and I'm in America, so maybe not super helpful, but I bought these:
I used https://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-Printer-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B07P1BDCH6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=hatchbox+tpu&qid=1630362164&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=ANPI0LINHGMTA&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExWl... because it costs the same as ninjatek TPU, but comes with a full Kilogram, vs a half Kilogram. ( Then you would have enough to try printing wheels if you wanted to.)
I had a lot of luck using these 2mm rods in place of paperclips for the open diff. My calipers measure them at exactly 2mm—you can either modify the .stl file to fit them or drill out the holes with a 5/64 drill bit (~1.98mm).
I cut them to length first (such that they don't extend past the edges of the cup), then used a pair of slip-joint pliers to press them into place. They have not yet loosened with >5 hours of driving.
I use this aluminum bar , folded and screw under chassis , resist pretty good ;) M-D Building Products 60707 1-1/2-Inch by 1/16-Inch by 48-Inch Flat Bar Mill https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I19ABG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5eWJFb3H2BB8W
What you need is Lubricating Grease with PTFE.
This is what is specified in the BOM
The WD-40 you have dries quickly and is more for corrosion resistance.
Wow.. Thsoe are serious breaks...
I'd like to troubleshoot a bit if you don't mind:
*4WD?
*How many perimeters are you printing with?
*Did you get and are you using the recommended PTFE lube on all moving parts?--The bigger the gob, the better the job.
​
Maybe your PLA isn't hard enough, next time you buy PLA try getting the brand I use: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BPV5FT2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They are the 80mm size "RCLions 4pcs RC Shock Absorber Damper 80mm Internal Spring for 1/10 RC Crawler Car TRX4 SCX10 D90 Upgrade Parts". They come with three different internal spring sets, and I have the softest one in there. Chose these shocks only because the recommended part was not in stock. Had to use "Extended Front Shock Tower" and "Extended Rear Shock Tower" from Thingiverse project 4306573 to keep the suspension from fully extending and locking up drivetrain.
Yes most RC shocks use oil. Those ones should use oil aswell. I think you may have filled them wrong or you used the wrong oil. Here is a guide on how to fill shocks with oil. https://youtu.be/1_d1nEquS6Y You also can't use just like olive oil. There is specific RC shock oil. You can either pick some up at you're local hobby store or some of this should work good. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006N6TRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_iZoFFbZVWZGQE
I thought it was because I have to much speed and too less torque...
I think I got this one:
https://www.amazon.com/RCRunning-3-175mm-Brushless-Waterproof-Programming/dp/B07SS1JQS7/
Does anyone know what "Working state" on the Programmer is?
You are right! Missed that part of the instructions, I will reprint the Lower Control Arm Mount in Cheetah.
Does this kit look reasonable? Contains heat shrink, XT-60, and from the picture, what appear to be bullet connectors. I sure hope the connectors will work for the (unknown) gauge of wire on the QUICRUN 10BL120 ESC.
https://www.amazon.com/WGCD-Adapter-Connector-Silicone-Replacement/dp/B072QB34SC
Thanks! Could you elaborate a little bit more on the connectors? The battery has a female XT-60 connector, so I need to solder a male XT-60 connector onto the ESC. So buy something like this, right?
https://www.amazon.com/Finware-Upgraded-Version-Connectors-Battery/dp/B07PB399PL
The motor has three wires coming out of it with male bullet connectors. (I think they are bullet connectors). If I understand correctly, I need to solder the corresponding female bullet connector onto the ESC. And then wrap the connection in heat shrink? These connectors come in various sizes (4mm, 3.5mm, etc) and it is not obvious to me which is right. Would you (or anyone reading these comments) be able to suggest a particular part?
I'm totally new to this, so thank you again very much.
I bought the wheels and tires off of Amazon.
17mm Plastic Rubber Tires + 10 Spoke Hub Wheel Rim for RC 1:8 Off-Road Car Pack of 4
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F75G8DU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mpdVEb1YJJXP5
Keep in mind that to use these you will have to print not only my 17mm hex hub, but also the hub extenders to use on at least the front.