Honestly just get an all metal one asap, especially if you're running an CF PLA/nylon. I bought this one.
You have to reverse the Extruder rotation, and recalibrate but it's honestly super easy and reduces the noise and increases the quality of prints.
Couldn’t find any solid videos, but hopefully this helps: “hot end assembly” https://cults3d.com/en/blog/articles/psa-hot-end-cleaning-assembly?fbclid=IwAR3k33bNorSmkxv3N1qKbWrVkZMypt6HW2ui1fRW3-JilA0RUXvmh8aBN90
Bowden Extruder V2.0 BMG Universal Geared Extruder Dual Drive Extruder for 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KP189KN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_0NADRNNT16C3ME86V1HN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 This is the one i want to get. Maybe i should just get it and dont worry about greasing up the existing one
The blower fan works great. It's not a true drop in replacement because the connector on it is the wrong sex, so needs splicing. I'm not sure if it's male and need to be female or the other way around, but either way - some "sex replacement surgery" is required. Other than that - works great, and is much better then the stock fan in every way imaginable (quieter and blows more air etc).
The heatsink fan is very quiet. I'm not sure if it's quieter then the Noctua. The only place i used these smal 40x10 Noctua's so far has been as a replacement for stock fans on the x570 motherboards. I opened up one of my cases just now to hear how it compares noise wise to the Winsinn, and to my human ear i cannot tell the difference.
Anyway, here is the pack i used - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07R97ZSF6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
I bought the TMC 2209's separately. They have a higher current output, which I specifically wanted for the extruder motor. I had tried a 2208 and it was a bit anemic. Like I said, the motor seems to be able to handle the higher current.
IIRC there are 3 fan connectors, one with PWM for your parts cooler. I'm not 100% sure if the others have PWM or not, I just use one to go to a buck convertor for two noctua fans (for the drivers and the hotend). The electrical bay seems to run about 30deg C or less, so I don't think a larger vent fan is necessary
I used this titanium heatbreak with these nozzles . The heatbrake has shorter threads and the stock nozzles aren't long enough in the stock heatblock, which I kept as well as the heatsink.
Truthfully, the limiting factor is probably only the heartbreak. Here's the ones I ordered for mine: Haldis 3D CR10 Bi-Metal... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095HNCBDB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
after swapping the heat break out, you're probably good to rebuild the firmware to allow higher heat settings. I switched mine to klipper though, so I'm afraid I don't have any advice on how to rebuild the firmware.
You can always buy a Micro SD to SD card extension, like I did for my Q5. Micro SD end plugs into the slot and a cable extends it out to a plastic housing for an SD card that you can mount wherever is most convenient.
I've had Serial/USB issues in the past on a few prints, so this just seemed like an easier solution than utilizing Repetier/Octoprint. They're also handy for Raspberry Pis and similar devices that use Micro SD.
I've used several different kinds of these and this one is the best. It actually fits it 100% perfectly and has a double sided Smooth and Textured PEI. Textured is game changing for me: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B6J7XDKM/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I did! After looking through Amazon, this is the one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B095HNCBDB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share whether it's a good one or not is up to opinion, but I can say the heatsink is always cool to the touch
I invested in a swappable PEI sheet system. The adhesion is great. You'll never need a scraper again since you can just bend the sheet until the print pops off. You can decide whether you want a smooth or textured surface or both.
The only things to make sure of is that the sheet advertised with a PEI coating actually has one and if you want two sheets hot-swappable, that they are of the same thickness. I had a problem with a "PEI" sheet in particular which happened to just be a spring steel plate.
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This is the textured PEI sheet that I got besides my smooth one.
Yup, I was a little nervous modifying the config file, but it wasn't bad. Adjusted the esteps to 407 and changed the invert extruder value from "1" to "0", flashed the firmware and bam! The stock one self destructed on day two. They're 15$ on Amazon and have been great, have them on five Ender clones with good luck.
Haldis 3D Extruder DDB Universal Nano Gear Dual Drive 3D Printer Extruder for Ender 3 Pro Ender 5 Pro CR10S Pro, Mega S, Prusa I3 Other DIY 3D Printer Kits (DLC Right) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B094HRCSYF/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_B119A2SEH3JG58K9HJ78?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
They are all over the place here. I got them from aldi as "a temporary product" and when i saw how sturdy that version was i thought lets grab one. If it does not work i can still use it for the car. Here is the similar one on amazon (No clue about the quality though)
Hiya,
Did it work? What version of the 2209 do you have?
I have these https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0912NDB6H/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1, but haven't installed them yet as the pinout seems very different. TIA
For firmware, please follow the guide on E3D's website. https://e3d-online.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/4411708912017-Marlin-2-0-firmware-guide-Revo-Hemera-
As for the wires, you can buy compatible connectors here; https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074J5498N/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_JK4EAN3Z9K1DM6AWB7BC
Or you can sacrifice your original hot end's connectors.
I am working on making a kit where you don't need to be destructive, but I'm still waiting on all of that to arrive for my stock.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TKFFCF1?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
just order and wait....and wait...
Looks like your z offset has not been set correctly, causing your nozzle to be too far above the build plate, then too far above your model, so when the filament comes out it isn't squished down but instead it kinda flops around like a hot plastic noodle.
You need to set you z offset every time you do a bed leveling. On the q5 i find myself needing to do a bed leveling quite often since the printer is really light and easy to knock around by accident - not really the printer's fault tbh.
I would highly recommend getting a set of feeler gauges to do this. They are super cheap from Harbor Freight, or Amazon, or an auto parts store or hardware store, they're really easy to find and they are really cheap but absolutely invaluable.
I find the ideal gauge to use (for the q5 in particular) is 0.15mm and to set the z offset low enough so you are juuuuust feeling resistance on the feeler gauge when you move it around under the nozzle; not so much that you cannot move the feeler gauge though.
I have seen people say to just use a piece of paper as a feeler but ugh that is just stupid when feeler gauges are SO cheap
Have you considered using a heatbreak like this to help get the Bowden out of the hotend? Something like the linked part should enable you to print most non-abrasive filament.
I upgraded my super racer to a volcano style copper heat block without any issues. You just need a new silicon sock to go with it. I bought this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08NV8JHNJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you are aiming for absolute maximum speed/acceleration I think the copper is overkill.
The FLSUN heatbreak is not threaded. So that rules out the threaded E3D style heatbreaks. Without tearing mine apart to a make a direct comparison, it does look very similar to the one that comes on the Ender printers I have. So finding an all metal or Bi-metal one shouldn't be too hard. Be careful of the length of the new heatbreak, as it determines the nozzle Z height vs the platform.
You could get an E3d Style heatsink and machine the threaded holes in the bottom yourself if you want a threaded heatsink.
My opinion on high temp materials: retraction/stringing become a hassle because of the metal heatbreaks and all the higher temp printed materials need to be printed slow and in an enclosure. This makes delta printers kinda lame for high temp materials. IMO just get an ender with an enclosure and metal heatbreak and use that to tinker with exotic materials.
The stock is a Titan clone, but Titans suck.
The BMG worked great for me until I went direct.
Here's the one I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RBL4CJC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Clone quality varies, even from the same company, so if you want a guaranteed-good one, go for the original (at 4x the cost): https://www.filastruder.com/collections/bondtech/products/bondtech-bmg-extruder
That said, BMG has 2 more versions out now that are both better, though I don't know how much you want to spend on this project.
The LGX (Large Gears) has more contact with the filament, leading to less chewing.
The LGX LIGHT is a lighter version of the LGX, which allows you to do stuff like a floating extruder or a direct drive in the future if you wanted to print flexible's. They're new though, and mostly sold-out, so that's a longer lead time.
For me, I bought an Orbiter V2 and I'm real happy with it so far, but my one gripe is that there is no way to manually feed the filament, so you've gotta use the UI. Not a huge deal, but if I was swapping fairly often it'd get annoying. (Bought mine from Filastruder above, had it within a week).
you could also buy these (measured to fit just now) to replace the stock magnet in the sensor. https://smile.amazon.com/Magnets-Neodymium-Rectangular-Countersunk-Scientific/dp/B095KCFH32/ref=sr_1_5?crid=YQUFA95OX7DD&keywords=rectangular+neodymium+magnet+with+screw+hole&qid=1642355246&sprefix=rectangular+neodymium+magnet+with+screw+hole%2Caps%2C52&sr=8-5
I replaced my Q5 bed with this magnetic flexible PEI surface and cover it with 2 inch wide blue painter's tape to print on works great:
I wanted to let everyone know about an alternative to the glass bed and to spring steel plates, that I think is better than both. This is a pei sheet stuck directly on top of the glass bed. You get the pei adhesion and ease of removing along with the flatness of a glass bed. The prints come out with a perfectly smooth bottom too. I ordered a sheet larger than the bed, stuck it down, then just trimmed it with a razor knife. Pei cuts really easy with a razor.
Here is a link to what I used. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08V5C8478/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_dl_JB6MYZVRFSEFRVC0Y2QD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
While you can make just about any extruder work with any printer, you'd probably be happier with something like a BMG dual drive extruder clone. I've used this exact one on a couple printers with good luck (It's currently on my Q5) and used the internal gears from another one to built a Voron Afterburner as well.
Oh, I misread. most folks have problems with first layer. I see now its all layers. I'm no speed expert, but I have managed a 15min benchy with PLA. Here is my experience with pushing speeds on my Super Racer.
most filaments are terrible at printing fast TBH. fast being more than 80-120mm/s material, brand, even colors can make huge differences in high speed performance. Look at manufacturer suggested print speeds and assume you might get 50% more than that best case, unless you test it to find that it works faster.
I want to say I recall hatchbox pla being good for fast prints. esun pla+ is also decent. Silk PLA and all PETG is terrible above 50mm/s
if adding 10C to the normal print temps on fast prints does not fix adhesion realistically slowing it down is your only hope.
My solution: enable the more advanced cura settings and adjust each aspect of the print speed based on desired results.
For high quality finish, silks, and PETG, general speeds I use 30-60mm/s for walls, 50-80mm/s for top/bottom. For regular PLA I can run 50-100 for walls, 100-150 for top/bottom.
I just searched amazon, some filaments are advertised as high speed PLA. I have not tried them but they claim to be good up to 200mm/s. https://www.amazon.com/BuMat-Elite-Speed-Printer-Filament/dp/B07R32Y5KG
I printed PETG on my Q5 with no issues. No clogs to speak of, but it was pretty stringy. I'd recommend a better-than-stock nozzle, preferably directly from a known-good MFG like E3D.
If you're worried about the bed, use some painters tape. It'll still stick, but worst case the tape comes off the bed and stays on the bottom of the print.
If you're gonna long-term print PETG, pickup one of those flexible metal sheets for the bed, and print on that instead of glass.
I also had good luck with this plastic sheet that Overture sent with their PETG. It's square, but I just slapped it down and it worked real well. They don't advertise it on the pages, but I just bought a roll from amazon and it had a surface in the box. Literally this amazon link.
I had some similar issues with mine. I bought the makerbase TMC2209 stepper drivers, and swapped them out. Set the VREF to 1.2 like the originals were, and they have been beautiful and silent ever since. They even came with heat sinks to install. TMC 2209 Stepper Drivers
If you swap the one on the Extruder, you will have to invert the pin in firmware and re-flash, but it is worth it for the silence.
These drivers work with no mods or firmware installs in standalone mode with the stock firmware.
Didn’t use the fittings but this exact item has my Q5 working beautifully. Creality Capricorn Bowden Tubing XS Series 1.2M for 1.75MM Filament, with Upgraded PC4-M6 & PC4-M10 Pneumatic Fittings & Hot Bed Die Springs, PTFE Teflon Bowden Tube for Ender 3V2/3/3 Pro 3D Printer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086MPP7CX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_D0PZMVQN4CVKJFH5HHSP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I'm getting these below. You think they'll work? I saw some shorter ones too, wasn't sure what to get. When I unscrewed it though, it looked like the long ones here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08B5Y3RNN/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_P3F3J53TZH4ATFJ95RT4
This is the one I bought
It’s the one I bought, it’s a drop in replacement no calibration required and it’s made of metal.
There isn’t a difference, however because the included heatbreak is longer than a typical e3d v6 one when you replace the heatbreak you also need a e3d v6 nozzle
If you want a genuine e3d heatbreak here you go: https://e3d-online.com/products/v6-heat-break?_pos=5&_sid=b399893bf&_ss=r
If you need a v6 nozzle to go with it I’d suggest just getting a cheap all metal hotend and cannibalizing the hotend like this one:
Wangdd22 E3D V6 Hot End Full Kit 1.75mm 12V Bowden/RepRap 3D Printer Extruder Parts Accessories 0.4mm Nozzle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XBXDJY3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_80D0GSG1BZNBNXFRNGWJ
Alternatively you could use it as an opportunity to get a steel nozzle if you’re thinking of printing abrasives anyways, just look up “v6 steel nozzle” and you’ll find a bunch of choices
I've got the Q5 myself, and can provide some quick tips for it if you get one too. The stock extruder on my machine came as a "Titan" clone, which managed to break itself in a couple days when pushed hard. I swapped it for a $15 "BMG" clone extruder (this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08PYCDZQ5/ ) which I've found to be more durable, better performing, and less 'clicky' overall.
If you're going to print PETG, you need to use a release agent... Aquanet hairspray works well, but specialty adhesive like "bed weld" or similar might be a better choice to limit over-spray without a removable bed. Gluestick works too, but likely would be a real mess to clean off regularly.
When you get over the fun and novelty of just being able to print stuff (it could be a while!) and you start looking for ways to make it print better, there's a newer official v2 firmware. If you want to go beyond that stock Marlin works great too (but is a bit of a pain to get set up) or for pure top print quality "Klipper" on this thing prints amazing (but no display screen support at all, which kinda sucks... you can trade it for a supported reprap one one for $15 or so more too though) With these latter non-stock options, you can trade out the stepper driver chips for upgraded models as well (I have TMC2226's everywhere now for ~$25, even my extruder motor is fully silent now.)
If you want a cheap(ish) intro to 3d printing, the Q5 is a solid performer out of the box. It's build space is a bit small compared to a cartesian machine like an Ender-3, but plenty large enough to print most things, and takes up a lot less desk space while doing so. It's not perfect, but nothing near it's price-point ever is.
https://www.amazon.com/FYSETC-Flexible-Diameter-Printing-Compatible/dp/B08JCLMVMB
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here is the flex bed for the Q5, ive been using it since I got the machine. Works well, just increase bed temp 5 degrees to compensate.
Sorry, I linked the wrong ones. There are two versions of the "same" item on the same page etc. This is the version i have in my cart - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F3SMRLJ/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2QQQKMKGVNA5E
While i'm at it, i may pick up that titanium hotend you mentioned in the other thread.
Thanks for your help.
I THINK you want the STEP/DIR version. I can't tell from the description, but to use UART mode, you have to move a couple pins to the top so you can attach wires (Which you could easily do with a soldering iron anyway).
FWIW, I used these ones:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08DFVZV5Q
Like I said, they just drop in, set the Vref to about 0.9 (that's my guess). then you have a choice of flipping the motor plug, swapping two wires in the plug, or inverting the extruder motor polarity in the firmware configuration.
Sorry to bug you again later man but got my q5 and loving it. I want to upgrade the stepper motor driver and on Amazon I can find tmc 2208 but in many modes (uart, did/step, etc). Would you be able to tell me which I am looking for exactly? This was the link I was looking at:
Shortly after I got mine the power switch assembly failed. Took me a while to narrow it down, but the fuse was good...it was the actual contacts in the switch assembly.
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I replaced it off amazon for cheap. Here is a link to get you started if you have check/tried everything else.
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https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PLNP74J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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My printer has been fine since.
I’m loving it. I had a belt go bad and I just replaced it this week. It took a solid week to dial the printer in. That was a challenge but now it’s running so well.
Go ahead and order belts off Amazon now. You’ll need them sooner or later. Search for “AIWAN LEZHI 5 Meters GT2 Timing Belt Width 6mm Fit”. Only $9. I’d consider ordering a second one. No regrets.
I also update the chips. I recommend doing this immediately. It is so quiet now now it crazy how much better it runs. Here are the ones I ordered off Amazon.
3D Printer TMC2208 Stepper Motor Driver, DORHEA TMC2208 V1.2 Stepper Driver Module with Heat Sink Screwdriver for 3D Printer Controller Mother Boards Reprap Ramps1.4 MKS Prusa i3 Ender-3 Pro, 5PCS
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B082LSQWZF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_b-NDFbQ1Z5Z9H
Found a replacement aluminum handle that works that cost me $10. Here is an Amazon US link for it: FEYRINX Titan Aero Extruder Idler Arm Sliver All Metal 3D Printer Parts for 1.75mm