What are
/r/Generator's
favorite Products & Services?
From 3.5 billion Reddit comments
The most popular Products mentioned in /r/Generator:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/Generator:
The most popular reviews in /r/Generator:
You need to buy this and install it to route the exhaust outside the truck when the generator is in the compartment.
1 inch Stainless Steel Exhaust Pipe Parking Air Heater Fuel Tank Diesel Gas Vent Hose Length 78 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0822SL9BT/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_VRVYG87G2CTS2HXC77ZB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
If your spare garage is a separate building, ie: detached, that should be fine.
If it's an attached garage with a door into the main house, then no.
Just keep in mind that carbon monoxide produced by the generator is odorless and invisible, so you absolutely have to avoid ANY chance that some exhaust will end up in your house.
Some people put generators on back porches, OUTSIDE, and still end up with exhaust coming into the house via the eave vents!
That's why you must have the generator completely away from your house. If you can't get a shed, there are "running covers" that are like big umbrellas that attach to the generator, which will allow it to be operated in rain. Here's one on Amazon that runs about $160 and has mostly favorable reviews, but do your due diligence.
Yeah good call. Just took a look again and I was misremembering.
It’s a Reliance CS6375 (Reliance Controls PB50 50-Amp (CS6375) NEMA 3R Power Inlet Box,Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HRWGBW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_2VYJS98FR2E287X5ASQX)
Picture of actual: https://imgur.com/gallery/wVPa6OM
Only three prongs, not four like I thought. But still 50amps.
Does this mean I can only do 120v? The generator breaker is in the right side of the panel but the heat pump is on the left. Not sure if this matters with 120v…
BTW, you may want to get one with a "split core" current transformer.
In order to measure the amperage you have to run the hot wire(s) coming from the genhead thru the inside of the donut shaped current transformer sensor. In a closed type you have to disconnect the end of the wire and thread it thru the eye of the sensor but on the split type the donut has a hinge and you can just open it and clamp it around the wire without having to disconnect it.
Note that for a 240V generator you will need TWO of these - one for each leg.
I think that's what the actuator on the throttle do. The generator does automatic choking for gas starting with the other actuator.
I tried to feed directly with NG and it didn't work, as expected. I suspect the demand regulator has an orifice large enough for NG. It is doesn't has spec stamped on it but looks like this one: https://www.amazon.com/ALLMOST-Garretson-Regulator-Converter-Compatible/dp/B09NBHV4KQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=H6P7H3H4MA84&keywords=garretson+kn+regulator&qid=1671606071&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011&rnid=2470954011&rps=1&sprefix=kn+regulator%2Caps%2C137&sr=8-3&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840 (except added outlet for priming). I guess there is a smaller orifice down the line. Hope someone find out where it is. Maybe it is possible to replace or just by pass that and then it will magically work for NG.
The design is very cramped. There is little space for adding a snorkel.
By the way, the design diagram in the manuscript is horribly over simplified.
If you're worried, a CO detector costs $15.
I'll be able to let you know in the next few days because I bit the bullet and decided to order the SUA8000iEA from Costco last night . I also have to convert my current cord from L14-30 to L14-50 and I ordered a connector from Amazon as well for this. https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000PGVZ30
You're going to need the (shorty) adapter that goes from TT30P to L14-30P, I think, regardless. I've never seen any extension cord that does this.
You might have been better off going with one of these to begin with, so you can just buy an RV cord and not have to adapt 3 prongs to 4.
I googled "RV generator bonding" and learned everything I needed to know. As other's here say, a bonding plug is the answer for a free standing generator. used one of these, and made my own bonding plug. It all depends on how handy/broke you are.
Any tought about Diesel Generator controller ?
https://www.amazon.ca/Generator-Controller-Automatic-Starting-Stopping/dp/B0B9G5MCYL/
That's a good point. If you are somewhere or someone where noise is not a big concern, you can save a lot going with an open frame inverter. I am also suspicious about how well the close frame gens cool, esp. in a brutal climate like TX.
Maybe something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/WEN-GN625i-Compliant-6250-Watt-Transfer-Switch-Ready/dp/B08H5VX1R7
Not dual fuel but could be converted.
that is a knockoff of a 'Facet' brand fuel pump. I assume this is not fuel injected genny. there are 2 version, 4-6pis, and 5-9PSI, (IIRC).
I always use a fuel pressure regulator on a electric fuel pump to limit the pressure to the float sw.
Your worries are over:
https://www.amazon.com/Portable-Inverter-Generator-Floating-Motorhome/dp/B0BLZ8QKLV
You can make one of these yourself. You just run a jumper from the neutral terminal to the ground terminal. Plug into any outlet on a gen and they will all be bonded.
I would also suggest grounding the gen to a ground rod.
> I would not try to incorporate something into the existing fuel cap's opening.
Why not? They make products for this exact purpose. Yeah, anything homemade might be questionable but the commercial products seem like they should be reasonably safe. There is even a Honda factory part:
https://www.amazon.com/superbobi-Extended-Fuel-Honda-Generator-Your/dp/B078XF251Y/
I'm guessing that a lot of the clones use the same thread as the Honda.
In case you are wondering, Honda inverters (and many others) have a fuel pump so they will draw fuel from the 2nd tank by vacuum - the 2nd tank doesn't have to be higher.
> little micro filter stuck INSIDE the fuel line
Almost all generators (whether they have real Honda or Briggs engines or fake ones) have a filter that is integrated into the pickup of the shutoff valve that sits at the bottom of the fuel tank. This little plastic screen is a standard part.
https://www.amazon.com/Tank-Fuel-Switch-Valve-Petcock/dp/B075Z5QV57
https://www.amazon.com/Raisman-Shut-Off-Compatible-192980GS-25-462-03-S/dp/B081BCGLQ4/
Look at the Wen instead. Same generator but cheaper:
https://www.amazon.com/WEN-56200i-2000-Watt-Generator-Compliant/dp/B00SMNLF4M
Portable generators are not meant to run in the rain nor are they meant to sit out in the elements. Electricity and water are not a good mix and small engines and generators corrode if they are exposed to the weather. The only way they can live outdoors is either under some sort of running tent when they are running and stored indoors otherwise or else in some sort of permanent weather tight enclosure or shed. You will have to budget separately for that in addition to the cost of whatever generator you buy. The only exception are the permanently installed standby generators that already come with an enclosure (and are priced accordingly).
If you already have a jump starter, just use that to power the compressor too. You can get a cigarette socket adapter for the jump pack if it doesn't have a socket.
That little inflator has a tiny motor and any generator is going to be big enough. The most popular (for a good reason) small generators nowadays are the "2000W" class inverter generators (actual output 1600w continuous) like this:
https://www.amazon.com/WEN-56200i-2000-Watt-Generator-Compliant/dp/B00SMNLF4M
I think this is the carb for the Briggs 306cc/ 1450 series:
https://www.amazon.com/DSparts-Carburetor-Briggs-Stratton-Craftsman/dp/B07JYLMN76
The choke lever may not match - they give you several and you can swap for the one that resembles yours. Otherwise they should be a visual match.
I would buy it again without question. It suits my needs perfectly. I haven't needed to run it much over the past year, but I did just pull it out last week after not having run it for 6 months to test it. It started up like a champ! That's likely b/c I have it running on natural gas and b/c I have it on a motorcycle battery charger. If you're curious <strong>I have this one</strong>.
It is loud. All of these are. They're all basically the same "chonda" motor. I have mine on the side of my house with no windows. Here's some decibel readings...
0% load: 73 dB
25% load: 74-77 dB
50% load: 77-78 dB
75% load: 79 dB
100% load: 82 dB
As far as how much gas it uses, the NG specs are likely similar to the <strong>Champion Tri Fuel 8750</strong> (see page 35 of manual).
I've tested mine running all the lights, fridge, two gas furnaces, gas stove and gas water heater and it was fine. I made a spreadsheet with a list of all my emergency appliances and how much electricity or gas (input BTU/h) they all required. My max input BTU/h for all my gas emergency appliances is 163,000. The generator has a maximum flow rate 135,000 BTU/hr.
Hope all this helps!
Probably you needed an adjustable pressure regulator on the tank. It helps to be able to tune the pressure coming from the tank a bit.
Like this: https://www.amazon.com/PatioGem-Propane-Regulator-Fitting-Burner/dp/B09HCBVHLS
The pressure is more important than the hose size - if the hose is small then increasing the pressure will push more gas thru anyway. Once you getting it running nice you should make marks on the knob so that you don't have to tune it every time. It helps to go a little rich to start it and then dial it back to your mark after it starts. A little goes a long way - you are going to be on the low end of the regulated pressure, just a fraction of a turn from 0.
It's supposed to be a "barbed fitting" where the hose is held on with band clamps. It's outdoors and propane is at 1 PSI so it is not a real demanding application. If you don't like the way it fits then redo the glue or something. I suppose you could try to thread tap the regulator where the brass elbow gets pressed it.
They are not all the same - this one looks threaded or at least they put a hex nut on the barbed fitting:
ttps://www.amazon.com/Zreneyfex-Carburetor-Conversion-Generator-170G-GX200/dp/B07V3BDWXT/
That kit seems pretty reasonable, compared to the usual $200 or $300 US brand kits but you could probably put the same together from bits and pieces on Amazon or ebay for a few $ less.
For example the carb only is like $20:
https://www.amazon.com/Joyzan-Carburetor-Conversion-Replacemant-Generator/dp/B0B7K3VRD2
You want a "GX200" dual (actually tri) fuel carb because the Wen has a 200cc (approx) Chinese Honda clone engine.
Plus this regulator ($10):
https://www.amazon.com/PatioGem-Propane-Regulator-Pressure-0-1Psi/dp/B0B5818L4H/
plus a couple of stainless clamps so $30 instead of $80.
Looks like a Chinese Honda-clone type recoil starter. What brand/size is your generator?
I'm pretty sure this will fit but check the measurements:
https://www.amazon.com/28400-ZH8-013YA-Recoil-Starter-Assembly-Generator/dp/B0B54RTSYP/
Oh, yeah, that's an option too! Before I figured out the fan swap trick, I actually did exactly what you describe to power my main workstation.
I put the loud UPS in the basement and plugged it in. I then installed an inlet near the UPS and wired that up to a red receptacle (color code for backup power) using romex cable (in conduit where required). Finally, I connected the UPS output to the inlet receptacle with a suitably heavy extension cord, and I was in business.
I am not an electrician so I can't say for sure, but I believe this setup is up to code. At minimum, the inlet and proper wiring address some of the more obvious potential safety problems with such a setup.
I don't know about 60W unless it's a little bar fridge but 150 to 300W is typical nowadays. Even if it is showing 60W running it's going to kick up some more when it goes on the defrost cycle.
It's not a bad idea to get an ammeter (actually two) on your whole panel to see what your total load is - this is easier than counting things up one by one. Some people go for fancy power management systems but I just have a couple of these things:
https://www.amazon.com/Current-Amperage-Voltmeter-Multimeter-Transformer/dp/B07JB9B2QL/
Make sure you get ones with split core current transformers so you don't have to open your lines. When my house is humming along normally (not running the clothes dryer or HVAC) it's maybe 1800W. If you look at the kwh on your power bill and divide by 720 (# of hours in a month) that will also give you an average consumption level. If you were actually drawing 25Kw contin. then at 15 cents/kw your power bill would be $2,700/month.
Good question - the generator input need a male connector and I’m assuming the other end of that cable needs to be male like the one’s I see like this I could be completely wrong tho
If you want to buy something on Amazon you are going to be better off with amazon.pl or some other local country. US power is different. Power in Ukraine and Poland is 230V, 50 Hz.
Mabye something like this:
Ok Amazon in the USA does appear to have 50 hertz generators but they are hard to find.
This is not an endorsement, it is just the first one I found. Good luck.
If it's old school (non-inverter) check CPS (hertz) as well. That will tell you if your governor is working. A sticky governor can cause surging when the load changes. I've used a Kill A Watt for years to check older generators.
For $16 you can get a new clone carb (and a bunch of other stuff):
https://www.amazon.com/Carburetor-Tecumseh-640152A-PowerMate-Generator/dp/B07VCKT6JC
You might be able to clean and tune the existing carb but for $16 it's hardly worth it.
> 180 watts. It's not great but it's enough to fry an egg.)
Normally a 240V burner on 120V puts out 1/4 the wattage. Small burners are usually 1200W so they draw 300W on a 120V line.
You would be a lot better off getting a butane tabletop stove. These cook pretty much like a regular burner on a gas range and they are only something like $30, slightly more for a dual fuel butane/propane version:
https://www.amazon.com/SHINESTAR-Portable-Ignition-Carrying-Included/dp/B09M2LDCXF
Your best bet is to buy a clone carb.
Like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076K8TRL2
Even if it is just for that one bolt.
As for right now, too bad. This is a 20 year old gen and not something that you should stake your life on.
The only requirement in using a clamp on ammeter is that you measure just one wire, not both legs.
I've seen adapters that split them apart for 15A, like this:
https://www.amazon.com/FLIR-TA55-Current-Line-Splitter/dp/B00NMVR2DM
If you can't use that and really need 30A, you'll have to sacrifice a 30A cord or adapter. Cut away 6 inches or so of outer insulation, so you can spread the wires apart. Measure each individually. Nothing more to it than that.
Thank you u/Asmolyme, I will check into that.
Had a question about sealant for the oil pressure switch. Would this work? I read oil, water based, and teflon tape are not good for high temp and high vibration environments.
Oh wow, indeed, 120v only! And, even worse, on a 15A plug... yet it sometimes pulls well over 20A? Yikes. Yeeeeeeeeeeee-ikes.
So, this is all kinds of sick and wrong, but something like this is your best bet. It claims to be wired with 10-gauge so the cord body itself should be good beyond 20A, but the NEMA 5-style plugs aren't designed for that and will be the weak spot. Keep an eye on it and if you see any melting, stop immediately.
Actually, the cord heading into the welder is probably undersized too. Keep an eye on that too. The fact that it was tripping your 20A breaker at home was probably what was saving it from self-immolation. By offering it 30A you're removing that limit, meaning something else becomes the limit.
Keep two fire extinguishers handy.
I'm thinking what I'm linking is similar stuff under a different brand. Personally I've just used the one I linked, but the serving size is more trade oriented than personal house supply.
> webasto airtop heater
There are chinese clones of these that are vastly cheaper (like under $150 without installation) and seem to run just as well:
https://www.amazon.com/Parking-Control-Display-Wireless-Defogger/dp/B09LHVH2HB
This is a lot like gens themselves. When inverter gens came out they were cutting edge tech and only made by Honda and Yamaha. But that was 35 years ago. All the original patents are expired. Same thing with these diesel heaters.
I power two small houses with window AC units, well pump, and TVs with a Generac 8KW standby. I don't run the dryer or water heater during outages. I think your generator will do just fine. I keep a Kill-A-Watt plugged in while running on the generator. The Hz and volt settings will tell you if your generator is straining.
You can often find "appliance" heavy duty flat extension cords similar to this one: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MXQ2Y4K in 6 to 9 foot lengths that would get you under a door, then use standard cords for the rest of the run.
The best way would be to preinstall something like this next to your furnace:
https://www.amazon.com/Outdoor-Generator-Transfer-Switches-Briidea/dp/B097ZVPNSM
This is something an electrician or your HVAC tech could do if you are not confident working with electricity. Once this is installed, if there is an outage you flip the switch to the generator position and run an extension cord from the generator to your furnace and you will have heat. Central air conditioning uses a lot of electricity - more than a little inverter generator could make. But during heating season your furnace only uses electricity to power the blower and some controls so even a small generator can run it so long as you've made provision to hook it up.
I gave my sister a Champion 100692. It's been on a few RV trips with them, and seems to work fine. As with any generator, if you buy it new, break it in carefully. Buy a bonding plug if you're going to plug an RV into it.
You will need to look at the Locked Rotor Amps (LRA) on the fridge and freezer to see what it takes to start them, then use a Kill-a-watt to see what the running amps are for them and the other devices you will be using.
That generator can provide up to 45A at 120v or 23A at 240v. That is plenty to charge your EV, but I would unplug the the fridge and freezer for a couple of hours when starting to charge the EV if it is near empty (EV's pull more power when empty.)
I recommend getting a good quality 240v 30A L14-30 generator cable similar to this one to bring power indoors, then a good quality splitter similar to this one to break out to 120v inside the house.
That looks like a lithium motorcycle battery which is a standard item.
https://www.amazon.com/AMPXELL-Motorcycle-Powersports-Replacement-YTX4L-BS/dp/B08R55HC6V/
They give the dimensions as Dimensions: (L)4.45" x (W)2.76" x (H)3.35" which sounds ballpark. I'm guessing that they are the exact same size and this is just due to rough measurements/ metric conversion.
Thanks LPecan. Sorry, I should have been clearer.
Here's what we have: https://www.amazon.com/Generac-7676-GP8000E-Portable-Generator/dp/B07N76WN9Z?th=1
It says 8000 running watts. But the cords are all 7500 watts. Is this a problem?
Thanks LPecan. Sorry, I should have been clearer.
​
Here's what we have: https://www.amazon.com/Generac-7676-GP8000E-Portable-Generator/dp/B07N76WN9Z?th=1
​
It says 8000 running watts. But the cords are all 7500 watts. Is this a problem?
Thanks!
Isn't this already a dual fuel? Propane and NG generators are identical with one small difference - the "load block" that controls the amount of gas that gets thru to the engine is slightly bigger in an NG gen because NG is at lower pressure. You just need to figure out how to adjust or enlarge the load block orifice which is somewhere in the pipe that leads from the demand regulator to the carb. Otherwise you already have everything that you need and it's unnecessary to discard all that good stuff.
Alternatively, you could buy a "dual fuel" carb on Amazon for $30:
https://www.amazon.com/BQBS-Carburetor-Conversion-Generator-Insulator/dp/B07XQFS28T
These work just as well as the $200 kits. They are called dual fuel but in reality are tri fuel because the load block can be adjusted with the brass screw at the top of the regulator.
I've used a diesel parking heater for several years for inexpensive heat. I've got one similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09SPBLGQD I found mine on ebay for about US$100.
I mounted mine on a couple of 4x4x10 wood blocks so that it would have good clearance underneath and wouldn't tip over. I ran metal pipe outside for the exhaust. I keep a CO detector over where it sits. It has a 5 liter tank and will run all night, and then some, on a fill-up. I keep a 12v car battery attached and have my generator 12v output keeping the battery charged. This lets the heater run for several hours, even when I have the generator off. The battery is important, because if you lose 12v while the heater is running, it will overheat and melt the controller board.
A buddy of mine mounted his outside, on a frame that holds a window AC during the summer. His is mounted to some concrete board, and has insulated plywood a few inches tall in the window with a hole for the heated air duct, and another for the control/power wiring and fuel. He says it keeps his hunting cabin toasty.
It's a nice generator and Honda rates them very conservatively (supposedly 1800W continuous) but I'm still not sure it is worth more than 2x the price of a comparable gen.
For example, you can get this 2200W continuous gen for $477 on Amazon and I'm sure that you fish sticks would have been just as crispy.
https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-C0010250-2500-Watt-Generator-Accessories/dp/B09BG9N147/
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B63GK6XD/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
I paid $79 a few weeks ago, now I see it is $125. Shop around.
That receptacle has four slots, ground, neutral, hot, hot. The ground on any generator will be bonded to the frame. A bonded neutral generator also has the neutral bonded to the frame, and thus to the bonded ground. This is preferred if the generator is freestanding, and you're just plugging in extension cords, tools, and appliances.
Any house main/service panel in the US will also have the neutral bonded to ground. One of the rules of electricity is that you don't want multiple bonded neutrals close together. If both the panel and the connected generator are bonded, that's too close together.
If you have an unbonded generator, it's actually preferred that you bond it with one of these, if it's freestanding. If you google "rv generator bonding", you'll learn more than you ever wanted to know about bonding. That's how I learned it not so long ago.
A buddy and I each bought Honda EU2000i generators in 2017, and we both had the same problems. Irregular idle and hard starting. I noticed too late that they were made in Thailand. IMO, Honda is running on its reputation, and the cheaper clones are as good or better. I bought a Champion 2000w inverter for my sister, and it has worked flawlessly on multiple RV excursions. If you're going to plug an RV into it, get a Neutral-Ground Bonding Plug.
This is my cheap and easy approach but not quite what you're asking for. What you want is going to cost you big or require some DIY.
I have a Suncast version of the resin shed in your second link. My shed has no mods so the generator just lives there until needed, then I pull it 1/2 way out so the exhaust is facing outward, then run it. I read on a forum of a guy using the same Suncast shed who claims to open only the front doors wide and run his fully in place with the roof lowered. I'm afraid to try that, but maybe I'd give it a whirl on a cold winter day.
Since mine gets pulled out to run, I also bought it a little rain and snow hat made by IGAN which works great on wet days.
The only thing I've seen is this ridiculously overpriced tent cover: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TYQ2G58/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=AK5TYWY2BY5TN&psc=1
I will be interested in what others have seen.
If the transfer switch is wired for 30A, then there's no benefit to using the 50A plug on the generator. Use the 30A on both ends, and benefit from the twistlock plug on both ends.
So you want an L14-30R on one end, and an L14-30P on the other. Something like this one.
I guess noise is subjective but a modern inverter gen is a LOT quieter in my book.
For less than $100 more, you can get a much more civilized beast with more power:
https://www.amazon.com/WEN-56200i-2000-Watt-Generator-Compliant/dp/B00SMNLF4M
For emergency backup use you are never going to hit 5000 hrs nor wear out the inverter. Horses for courses - for all day every day construction use your friend made a good choice for his application but emergency backup is a different application. Noise and fuel consumption are more important than longevity for that application.
Carb is clogged. Carb needs to be disassembled and cleaned (or buy a replacement clone carb on Amazon under $20). And drain that fuel (it will be ok in your car - fill the tank afterward so it is diluted) and refill with 100% fresh fuel.
https://www.amazon.com/FitBest-Carburetor-GX390-188F-Generator/dp/B01FD6ISWW
Maker sure it is a visual match but Chinese clone parts are highly interchangeable.
Find a digital thermometer with a long tail on the sensor and judge your fridge timing with that. Bonus points if it has a high temp alarm.
It won't do you any good for this storm, but consider getting larger propane tanks. It will save you a lot of money the next time.
Things to think about:
- Propane in a large tank will be less expensive than gasoline, but you only get about 80% of the power from your generator. Common sizes of home propane tanks are 120, 250, 500 and 1000 gallon. They can be installed above or below ground. Small "BBQ Grill" 20 pound tanks, which typically hold 4 to 4.5 gallons, will often be more expensive than gasoline.
- If you have Natural Gas available, it will be much less expensive than Gas, Diesel or Propane. NG will also be more available during the aftermath of a natural disaster. NG will give you about 65% of the power of gasoline, so a 30A generator will give you about 20A on NG. You can often just change the regulator on a Propane generator to a NG regulator.
- Portable generators generally don't have an oil filter. Get a magnetic dipstick and drain plug for those, especially if new. Metal shavings in brand new gensets is a killer.
- Generators damaging electronics is largely an exaggeration. The surge, spike, sag or other nastiness takes place when a standard generator shuts off. Turn off the generator breaker before starting or shutting down the engine. Throwing the generator breaker prevents that from getting to your electronics. It is a good idea, even with inverter generators.
- Don't use generators to run electric heat. A diesel parking heater is much more efficient. Propane or kerosene heaters or even wood stoves are better sources of heat.
- Carbon Monoxide from generators kills about 70 people each year in the US. Don't operate a generator in the house, garage or any connected structure.
I've used a diesel parking heater for several years for inexpensive heat. I've got one similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09SPBLGQD I found mine on ebay for about US$100.
I mounted mine on a couple of 4x4x10 wood blocks so that it would have good clearance underneath and wouldn't tip over. I ran metal pipe outside for the exhaust. I keep a CO detector over where it sits. It has a 5 liter tank and will run all night, and then some, on a fill-up. I keep a 12v car battery attached and have my generator 12v output keeping the battery charged. This lets the heater run for several hours, even when I have the generator off. The battery is important, because if you lose 12v while the heater is running, it will overheat and melt the controller board.
I recommend these to customers all the time.
https://www.amazon.com/IGAN-Generator-All-Weather-3500w-12000w-generators/dp/B0817FJRJD?th=1
I would get two of these and permanently install to your panel. You are going to want to know the load on each leg when running on gen:
Also how were you going to connect gen to panel?
You don’t want to buy that battery, if it’s for RV use you should get something designed for RVs, like this:
Very high quality, designed for RV use with 12v charging systems and 12v draw. They are going to be a lot easier to adapt for RV use. You can still use them in parallel etc.
About the UK part, I was also looking to get one from there
The highest wattage I found was only 3500
There's a difference between can and should. EU runs at 230V and the blue wire is neutral.
- The plug with the 90° bend in its tab is ground
- Either side of ground are the two hot wires
- The pin opposite of ground is neutral
- Hot to Hot is ~240V
- Hot to neutral is ~120V
Given it has a US plug it would run at 60Hz instead of 50Hz.
If you're using a EU device that can handle 60Hz, but needs the voltage get a step up transformer rated for enough power such as: https://www.amazon.com/SEYAS-Transformer-Converter-Continous-Protection/dp/B06VVXN2SR/
If you're wiring a US device but have left over EU wire: Blue to neutral, metal shroud to ground.
Tip Three: Change your oil often because there's no oil filter, use 5-30 full synthetic oil, and get yourself one of these oil drain pans. No lifting the generator up on pieces of wood or any such jive as this oil drain pan slides under any open frame generator.
Like others have said, the aircon is the killer. It's possible that a soft start kit would reduce the demand such that you could start the Ac with a large closed inverter gen like this:
https://www.amazon.com/GENMAX-Portable-Generator-Capability-Compliant%EF%BC%8CCO/dp/B09QQDQS78/
This is more like $2,000 than $1,000.
Other alternatives : go open frame inverter - cost is lower.
You just can't have it all. It doesn't exist. For your budget, you can have 2 out of 3 of quiet and cheap and powerful put all three are going to cost you $2K and up. Sorry you are asking the impossible.
So your 845cca battery specification shows that it is 122 amp-hours of capacity. This is about 1500 watt-hours at 12 volts - https://learnmetrics.com/amp-hours-to-watt-hours/
So 1500 watt-hours divided by 300 watts is 5 hours. It can supply 300 watts for 5 hours ideally.
Use this $13 watt meter to measure your actual watt load and you can size everything very accurately.
kuman KW47-US Electricity Usage... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPJ3RGB
> You have to step up to the commercial grade V twin Vanguards to get a US made B&S.
I think that the Briggs 1450 series might still be US made or at least use the original Briggs design:
https://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-1450-Horizontal-Engine/dp/B00M976W7W
You can see that this engine alone is more that most 3600W gens.
The Chinese cost structure is such that no one can be competitive with a USA made portable gen anymore.
As I said before, the Briggs design wasn't better than (C)honda's to begin with (nor did it produce more HP/cc) and over the years they cheapened it even more so there's no particular reason to prefer Briggs. There might have been a time when the Chondas had inferior reliability (Chonda were notorious for shedding metal on break in - the 1st couple of oil changes your oil would look like glitter) but between Briggs going down (except maybe for the $$$ Vanguards) and China coming up, there's no difference. The only thing that would be better would be a real Japan made Honda but I think even the Hondas are from Thailand nowadays - labor costs in 1st world countries are too high to build commodity goods like small engines.
> If the engine always supplies 24kw It doesn't. The governor throttles it down to the necessary RPM. Assuming a single phase alternator in the US, that alternator should be running at 3600 rpm to produce 60jhertz, which can be checked with a multi meter or kill-a-watt.
Here is the Power Smart for $359 which appears to be yet another version of the same generator as the Wen and the HF:
https://www.amazon.com/PowerSmart-Portable-Generator-Emergency-Compliant/dp/B09439RGS9
You might be able to get this to run on a 1200W gen but just to be safe and to get you some spare power for other stuff and so that your gen is not running fully loaded all the time, I would get at least a 1900W (running) inverter gen. Like this:
https://www.amazon.com/WEN-56200i-2000-Watt-Generator-Compliant/dp/B09NYQ7J7K/
or this:
https://www.amazon.com/PowerSmart-PS5020Super-Portable-Generator-Compliant/dp/B089FDFDH5/
Prime day deal at $359.
A 3,000W gen would not be out of the question if you also wanted to run a fridge at the same time - that would be around $700. For the same price you could get a pair of the Power Smarts which would give you more power, greater reliability and flexibility.
I think you are mistaken this part as an add-on, which is rather a replacement of existing AVR when equipped in such generators. E.g.
Almost all modern portable synchronous generators have AVR's. Nowadays they are a cheap, off the shelf component so there's no reason not to use them.
To give you an idea of how cheap they are, you can buy them on Amazon for $5 retail:
So something as small as this will work? Or does it need to have specific specs?
​
The 2nd cable you listed is an SS1, not an SS2. It doesn't have a hole for the center pin to go in. Other than that, your idea is sound. This one should work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S3XGZ61
SS2-50 connectors are designed for marine/dock power, and should be fine for weather use, but I wouldn't recommend immersion.
For battery charging, a small inverter generator makes more sense.
https://www.amazon.com/iPower-AP1500i-Generator-Operation-Emergency/dp/B08K9C3LVQ/
Something like this is going to be quieter and use a lot less fuel and costs about the same as that Champion.
120v/240V inverter generators are somewhat rare but not unheard of. For some reason they tend to be either (a) open frame rather than closed frame or (b) in the larger sizes. A slightly oversized inverter generator is not so bad because the generator will just run slower if it is not being fully used. You were not wrong to love inverter gens. An open frame will not be as quiet but still quieter than a synchronous unless you load the gen up fully.
Here's a closed frame inverter in a relatively small size (5000w continuous) https://www.amazon.com/Briggs-Stratton-Inverter-Generator-starting/dp/B08N1GCTCB3 IDK if you can get this in Can.
It's really better to get a 120/240V generator to connect to a panel regardless of what connection method you use. If you get 120V only generator then nothing 240V (water heater, HVAC,etc.) will work.
- So you confirm the Siemens with built-in breakers serving as a transfer switch will work (I hope there is no stupid question - trust but verify LOL)? Of course it is made in Canada, thus CSA approved.
- As for the one with a watt meter, this one has C-UL 1008 listed, would it be acceptable to Code: https://www.amazon.ca/Reliance-31410CRK-10-Circuit-Generator-Generators/dp/B000HS2L3O
- Can you kindly suggest a make/model add-on watt meter for use with the Siemens EQG630D or EQG1020D?
Many thanks!
https://www.amazon.com/Century-Garretson-Pressure-Regulator-Converter/dp/B00EP1N1X8
I use that for most of my small engines, its a true dual fuel vacuum regulator.
This is the system is got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q1G4WK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. It’s basic in that it shows total load for the house. It updates every 10 seconds. It’s nice because the receiver is portable and you don’t need any network or whatnot for it to work.
That's a nice system but if you are on a strict budget you could get this:
https://www.amazon.com/80-260V-CRS-022B-Display-Voltmeter-Transformer/dp/B0919LV66F/
I have these connected to my generator inlet so I can keep track of the load while the gen is running. Downside is that they don't record the peaks.
You can measure the watts needed for that using a clip on AC current meter like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0753FY711?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_BEWYWKBXN6G7Y6G9QDPR The UT210D is a great meter for a low price, very capable.
Dont forget that you to measure both the inside and outside unit currents. You will need to clip the meter onto the power conductor going to each unit.
You sure of the running watts for the fridge? That seems like way too much. I measured (buy a KillAWatt knockoff) 150 watts running with compressor on and a maximum of 850 watts for a minute when the defrost elements came on. Its a pretty typical USA 2016 vintage 27 ft3 fridge.
Suggest buying a Watt meter and checking your actual applicances. Starting watts can be higher and harder to measure. This meter is pretty decent for $13 I have several and use it to monitor loads when using my generator. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPJ3RGB.
Just a data point, our smaller 1600 running / 2000 watts inverter type generator ran two standard fridges with no trouble.
Added - if you start to find a whole house size generator is out of your budget, the 2000 watt inverters (Wen 56225i 2250 watts for $385) along with a bunch of proper extension cords paired with a watt meter make a really usefull power outage kit for less than $500. You can run a fridge, couple of fans, Led lights all day long. Runs a small 6000 BTU window AC unit by itself no problem too. A whole lot of power outage preparedness for $500. Very happy I did it a few years ago.
You sure of the running watts for the fridge? That seems like way too much. I measured (buy a KillAWatt knockoff) 150 watts running with compressor on and a maximum of 850 watts for a minute when the defrost elements came on. Its a pretty typical USA 2016 vintage 27 ft3 fridge.
Suggest buying a Watt meter and checking your actual applicances. Starting watts can be higher and harder to measure. This meter is pretty decent for $13 I have several and use it to monitor loads when using my generator. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DPJ3RGB.
Just a data point, our smaller 1600 running / 2000 watts inverter type generator ran two standard fridges with no trouble.
Usually a PC PSU only has a small amount of power on the 12V rail. You are better off with either a 12V laptop supply or else a dedicated 12V unit . These things look like they are based on PC PSUs but have only the 12V output instead of all the other voltages:
https://www.amazon.com/IMAYCC-Converter-Transformer-Adapter-Security/dp/B098TK7KJQ/
How concerned are you about noise? If you don't need absolute quiet, you can get an "open frame" inverter for about half the cost:
https://www.amazon.com/WEN-GN625i-Compliant-6250-Watt-Transfer-Switch-Ready/dp/B08H5VX1R7/
It's not dual fuel but could be converted for cheap.
I am concerned about cooling and long term durability in the Chinese closed frame gens. I trust Honda to have carefully engineered a solution but anything that keeps sound in is also going to trap heat.
That connection also has a little plastic prong which I believe serves a function, so it's not just a matter of getting the right size connector.
I'd suggest contacting Champion and ordering that entire assembly with the pressure regulator and then removing the pressure regulator and installing a connector at the non-generator side of the hose. Once you've done that, report back here with what you did so I can do the exact same thing! ;-)
What I've done instead is bought a Y connector propane device and extension hose so I can connect the generator to my RV tanks that way, rather than use the quick connect under the trailer.
For absolute quiet (and "greenness") get a battery "generator". These are not generators at all but just large battery packs with an inverter. Maybe with some solar panels, like this:
This suits the "tech" company image a lot more than any gasoline generator and they are virtually silent.
Aside from the noise (those little inverter generators are very quiet at idle but the noise really comes up if you try to draw significant power out of them) you are going to have to deal with carrying gasoline around plus remembering to check the oil.
You need to figure out how many watts you plan to draw and for how long and size your generator or battery power supply accordingly.
Thanks for your response. I’ll have to ask them when they come back to finish the installation of the actual interlock piece of metal as I don’t know what kind of breaker they installed.
In terms of the second answer, what I did was downgrade to this Reliance pro Tran 2 transfer switch which is 120v and has 4 15 amp breakers. It is wired to 4 different circuits which are only 15a and will only supply power to my 120v circuits. Consist of a circuit with some lights, another with the frig, another with a freezer, and one more with some other lights. I tested this out and it seemed to work. However are you saying it’s not safe nor up to code to do this?
This is the transfer switch I downgraded to:
Goal Zero Yeti Home Integration Kit Transfer Switch, Powers up to 4 Circuits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C535GCZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CM29YBYY6KRDJXQWXXJ3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thank you for your help!
I have similar requirements as you and I wanted the quiet, efficiency, and smaller size that inverter generators offered. Cleaner power was nice but I’m not convinced it is absolutely necessary. I just pulled the trigger on the newly release GenMax 6000W Inverter Generator. It is dual fuel, 240v, electric start, great control panel, and small for the specs. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09Q5V6ZDL
I just got it today so don’t know yet if it will be able to start my smaller 3T AC (already has MicroAir soft starts). I’m pretty sure my other 4T AC units are out of the question but fingers crossed on the small one.
I also debated it’s bigger brother 9000 which I really liked but just didn’t want to deal with the extra size and weight if I don’t absolutely have to. Similar to the predator 9500 but adds dual fuel, better control panel, and 50 amp outlet. If I had the space to ‘waste’ this would have been my pick. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09QQDQS78/
There are some good YouTube videos on these models. As I understand it, the manufacturer has been building DuroMax and other common brands but has now decided to go direct to consumers. They do seem to be innovating which I’m happy to see.
Good luck with your search and let us know how it turns out!
If youre in the market, I just picked up a WEN 11/9500 dual fuel for 855 shipped from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MMZZSHC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
Damn dropped by another 15$ since thursday
Just have in the front a dipstick and oil drain plug.
In WV, had a huge ice storm cause all kinds of issues in Feb of 2021
Been living here at my current house for 20 years, NG has never (so far) had an issue.
Don't really have anywhere to put another generator but I am putting together a quite box for my current generator and expect that to make a decent impact on the noise.
I have been using this to monitor my energy usage
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q1G4WK
And yes it is less then what I thought it would be but we have a big AC and I am fine with overkill.
Our power rarely goes out, just want to be prepared when it does
Wow, I hope you stayed safe!
How did you calculate NG charge per hour?
It makes sense to run that smaller one in that situation.
Very interested in how your 100 hour test looks, please post it here if you don't care when
the time eventually comes.
Looks like it was pretty intense based on the video you posted.
I recently got a DuroMax XP13000HXT tri fuel generator.
I followed the manufacturer's break in procedure.
If we ever have an extended outage I am thinking I would definitely be good for 72 hours/3 days,
between oil changes (if not 48).
I use AMSOIL Signature Series Synthetic Motor Oil
I also have this Magnetic Dipstick & Drain Plug
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09NWFCVXM
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08BX8JNC7
Duromax said with synthetic 50 hours (but some synthetic is better then others), which is at least
an increase above what they used to say.
Although I wish they did the oil analysis testing and I think they are playing it extra safe with
their low hour interval.
We had an ice storm and had no power for a couple of weeks last year.
I am thinking I would swap out the oil once every 3 days if that situation were to occur again.
I'm not sure that is really the issue (you really need to get a multimeter and find out what the voltages are) but a generic AVR which would surely fit is like $15 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Regulator-Rectifier-Generator-Alternator/dp/B09LHHPGV6/ref=sr_1_15?crid=3H2ATNCWNWIL5&keywords=avr+generator&qid=1649041408&sprefix=avr+gen%2Caps%2C178&sr=8-15
Lol, exactly or an actual generator and not a power station. It’s also very heavy and not very portable. I also find it strange Duracell doesn’t make a solar panel for this item. They actually recommend this on their https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Monocrystalline-Solar-Compact-Design/dp/B07GF5JY35/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Renogy+100+Watt+12+Volt&qid=1594233391&sr=8-3 Also Costco had this product for $500, not sure if it’s still available. IMO you need to do some more research cause there are a ton of better options that will charge your kobalt power tool batteries when on job sites.
You will be fine with a 10 gauge L14-30 up to 65 feet in length. Over 50 feet and up to 125 feet in length, an 8 gauge is needed. If you want a 40 feet cable, there are some available like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/BougeRV-Generator-Electric-Extension-L14-30P/dp/B07FT4M77B
A watt and a watt-hour are not the same thing. 150 watt-hours means a draw of 150W for 1 hour. If you are going to use your rig at the beach for 5 hours, then you would need 150W x 5 = 750wh.
If your demand is 150W you would want at least a 200W power station to allow for a cushion. Could be more but not less.
So here is a setup:
This would get you around 5 hours of power plus keep going longer as long as the sun was shining and powering the 100W solar array.
The downside is that is costs $800.
I would buy a system to install and find out how much load you use typically. Sense or Emporia Smart Home Energy Monitor with 16 50A Circuit Level Sensors | Real Time Electricity Monitor/Meter | Solar/Net Metering would accurately tell you how much power you need. And then it will help you monitor your usage to save power consumption.
Install this first and see what a month looks like.