This brand is a case study for the power of marketing. There is nothing original about the circuits, they are Fender copies, and the amp layouts were copied directly from another man's book, see the section on 5B6 Bassman ... the build quality is solid, but not exceptional ... but Phil, who is transparent enough about all of this — he used to post his builds online 10-12 years when he was learning to build amps — has marketed it into a real powerhouse, especially on the country and blues scene. That's not a slight, he took an undervalued early Tweed design and put it back on the map in a big way.
I found "Inside Tube Amps" by Dan Torres much more informative as far as actually working on amps. The paperback is out of print, but there's the link to the kindle version. It has detailed examples of mostly Fender, then Marshall and some Vox circuits.
Dummy jack covers are less than a $1 each. Here are some neutrik brand at 74 cents each, here is a random 10 pack on amazon for $7.48. I use something like this on some of my cabs, don't recall where I found them.
Assuming your headphones are 3.5mm:
UGREEN 6.35mm (1/4 inch) Male to 3.5mm (1/8 inch) Female Stereo Audio Adapter Gold Plated, 2 Pack
AUX cable depends on your source. AUX input jack is 3.5mm.
This is what you want. It works from the inside out, but it’s the same concept, plus it has key signatures. Personally I’ve always found chord wheels to be overly complicated, but I learned theory fairly young, and discovered these afterwards.
Edit: this one also has the advantage of rotating to highlight all the diatonic chords in that key.
You can get any speaker cable w/ 1/4” jacks and cut one of the ends off to wire to speaker. Just make certain it’s speaker cable and NOT instrument cable (instrument cable is what you’d use between guitar and amp).
Here is an example of speaker cable:
Pig Hog PHSC5 High Performance 14 Gauge 9.2mm 1/4" Speaker Cable, 5 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CPAJFS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_kr03FbV6T22CA
Here’s another. Might be easier to use as you can remove the metal splice cover to reveal which is positive and which is negative for hooking to your speaker:
GLS Audio 3 feet Speaker Cable 12AWG Patch Cords - 3 ft 1/4" to 1/4" Professional Speaker Cables Black 12 Gauge Wire - Pro 3' Phono 6.3mm Cord 12G - Single https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Z2H07K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_Gu03FbZ4XVDBP
3M Industrial Cleaner and Degreaser, Citrus Base, Net Wt 18.5 oz, Removes Sticky Residue, Dirt, Grease, Grime, Tar, Oil and Ink in Seconds, Non-Corrosive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AO4UTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3ACPASDFQFDXZM0M4RY9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Despite saying industrial, it’s very gentle. We used to use it for cleaning sharpie off $80,000 audio consoles
My first thought: looks like you're missing a standoff, as the board seems to move around when you plug in. Those standoffs usually grounds/attaches the chassis to the circuit and in some cases can be critical for the circuit to be properly grounded. While I doubt this will fix your issue, I suggest making sure you get that fixed.
I'd also echo u/ryebow's comment. The "next step" in troubleshooting amps is pretty heavy on understanding and probing the circuit.
I have to agree with u/rlvis.
I only added this up because I was bored, but I thought a sub $30 estimate seems low as well.
That's $19 already and I haven't included wire, shipping costs (typically starts at $6.95) plus my shop cost (solder, tool wear, power, time).
Or I can buy the Hosa for $20 from Amazon (shipped) and have a return policy.
Not even a contest to what the real bargain is.
If you live in a fairly major population center, you can use kijiji to find a nice little amp for a good price, if you're willing to be patient and strike quickly when you find one.
Or you can look at a VHT from Amazon:
I have the head version of this amp, and I think it's great. Stock output tube was shit, but that happens with most cheaper tube amps.
Contact cleaner, $4.77 @ Amazon, but you can buy at probably any store like Lowe's.
CRC 05103 QD Electronic Cleaner -11 Wt Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_m1G9Bb2YS6DMT
And the place on the pot to spray it (about halfway down on the page)
Could try a shorter cable and/or using buffered pedals somewhere in your pedal chain. From what I understand, longer cables are like a longer antenna. Buffered pedals split that whereas true bypass don’t.
u/lutherthegrinch On examining the inside of the reverb tank I noticed that the springs are connected at each end to a pack of about a half dozen thin metal plates, about 1 inch in size and 1/4 inch in total thickness. On one side this pack of plates had worked itself a little loose. I straightened them up and the reverb definitely sounded better.
However, by the time I realized this was the problem it was too late. I'd already ordered a replacement tank. I purchased a MOD 4AB3C1B replacement reverb tank. Cost me about 30 bucks.
I tried both the original and the new one, and while I could have easily returned the new tank I actually preferred it over the original. It's a richer, warmer reverb and more closely matches the lush intensity of my Deluxe Reverb, so it sounds incredible playing both amps together with the reverb on. It's now perfect. Immense. But controllable.
The only caveat was that the female RCA connectors on the MOD reverb were color-coded OPPOSITE from the RCA cables of my amp. You would think you would connect it Red to Red and White to White, but that didn't work for me – I had to do Red to White, and White to Red. No big deal. If anyone is reading this who might want to try a new tank, it's hard to go wrong, really. Just connect it up how you think it should be, and if it doesn't work then just swap the RCA cables around. Easy peasy.
You probably need something like this - (Taelectric) AC Adapter for Marshall MS4 Micro Amplifier Stack Power Supply Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MYFTDF3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_WAGDJ3J3WHCPNXH4NHRS
Even though your power supply is 9V, it’s possible that it isn’t pushing the proper amount of mAh.
Yeah it couldn’t hurt to get a Furman (I have this one Furman Power Conditioner, Plug, black, Standard Strip (SS6B) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002D017M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_T8JZ974FNDSSJ9MF7KEN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 and I think it’s good value)
But isolated power will probably be your best bet.
What kind of information are you looking for? Repair "fixes" or how to think through troubleshooting?
Many older military electronics text books have good info on how tubes work.
This isn't a tips and tricks to repair amps, but it is a great peek into how a knowledgeable person thinks through how a guitar amp works.
Gerald Weber has a bunch of tube amp tech books that are repair oriented.
The shelving units for the amp heads is from Target. Also, it’s actually two 3-tier racks stacked on top together because they were 23.5” wide instead of the standard 21” wide all the 6 tier units seem to be. I removed the bottom feet and used long bolts to screw in their place with washes and nuts to fit securely.
The rack for the cabinets is from Amazon:
Seville Classics 5-Tier Steel Wire Shelving, 30" W x 14" D, Chrome https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08WJSMTQ5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_7PC2HW0XWQ8A0JGNSM07?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
What’s happening is called feedback. The high volume of the amp is shaking the body of the guitar, which vibrates the strings, which sends a stronger signal to the amp, which makes it even louder, which shakes the guitar even more. It all goes round and round until everything is out of control and squealing. This is very common with hollow-bodied guitars, and one of the primary reasons solidbody electric guitars were developed was to keep this from happening at higher volumes.
All that said, there are a couple of cheap and easy things you can do to control the feedback. The first thing is to get your guitar out of the path of the amp’s speaker. Turn the guitar or amp slightly as you are playing so the speaker isn’t shooting into your guitar, or turn around and play with your body in between your guitar and the amp. You can also try to get farther way from the amp to control feedback. The better guitars players also work with the feedback, using their body positioning and distance from the amp to make their rigs squeal or not depending on what the songs need. But we’re not there yet and your feedback is undesirable. For you right now, what you need to know is the less direct the path from speaker to guitar, the more volume your rig can handle without going into feedback.
You can try blocking the soundhole(s) so the body doesn’t shake as much at higher volumes. If your guitar is more an acoustic than an electric, you can also try blocking the soundhole with something like this feedback buster, which fits into the big soundhole of an acoustic guitar under the strings.
Furinno Just 3-Tier Turn-N-Tube End Table/Side Table/Night Stand/Bedside Table, 1-Pack, Americano/Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HG5Q8TP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_yxWcGbH1DJETP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Maybe something like this
Would give you individual level controls between your headphones and your recording gear.
Wouldn't hurt to try the passive splitter you linked though. It will either work well, kinda work, or not work. Won't damage anything.
Just don't run the speaker out into anything other than a speaker at the same impedance rating.
I see what you mean.
Now between each pedal is a cable connecting. Is it basically these?
This is a lot of help. I really appreciate it.
I've got the exact same one, also on a Les Paul funny enough.
Its on Amazon
A good 40 watt iron will cover most amp building requirements but can be too much for PCBs. I prefer an adjustable temperature iron. PCB work for FX requires lower temps than eyelets for an amp. And replaceable tips mean you can choose the horse for the course. Bigger, wider types transfer more heat.
I use the Hakko. It heats fast, it's consistent and I can get tips at Micro Center, Frys or Amazon.
Weller has be in industry standard for years.Many people swear by the Weller WES51 but I think it is now discontinued and replaced with the digital Weller WE1010NA. I did make due with the lower-cost Weller WLC100 for years, but don't recommend it; the tip was held in by a set-screw and when that got loose a dangerously hot tip would fall out onto my workspace/amp/lap/etc.
I don't have a schematic but as far as wiring is concerned, it's fairly simply. I used 3 mono 1/4" jacks, an enclosure (just about any size will work) and a DPDT ON-ON toggle switch like the one in the link below. The center lugs of the switch connect to the tip and sleeve of the output jack and the outside lugs connect to the corresponding tips and sleeves of the two input jacks.
It is mostly just a convenience thing, because I like to switch between the amps I am practicing with at home. I would not use it in a live setting unless it was upgraded to switch in a load box for the unused amp.
You should be able to plug the headphone jack right into an interface for direct recording, IIRC (I may be thinking of the Micro Dark) the headphone out should also provide cab emulation too.
If you want to do things the K.I.S.S. (edit: as in Keep It Simple Silly, not the band KISS ahahaha my bad) way, anyhow. I used the same method from my Fender Mustang III amp into GarageBand a while back - it worked well enough.
In a perfect scenario I would have it mic'ed and may even box it but ehhh I'd rather spend less time with setup and more time with fun playing/recording myself.
[Edit 2]: Now, if you want to get even ~~lazier~~ more streamlined and simple they make something that allows you to plug directly into a headphone jack on a computer providing everything from cabsim to some basic effect tweaks - I personally use the Classic Rock amPlug from VOX - Amazing for jamming around the house with only a headset, don't have to bother anyone or drag a bunch of shit around :)
Edit 3]: Great choice going with the Micro Terror - that thing is a beast and I myself plan to get a Micro Dark this Christmas!
Like a kit you buy; it includes all parts needed that you put together.
Or did he procure the parts separately and he just knows how to build from scratch? I ask because I could do one (kit) but not the other.
For example, here is a kit on Amazon:
There is an app for Android that allows you to edit and send Tone patches to the Kat 50/100/ Air from an Android phone or Tablet. It is not wireless, but works over USB. So if you get a cable that is "USB_Blank" [whatever connection your phone/tablet is, Micro, USB C, etc.] to USB-B (the port on the Kat 50/100/Air), then you can alter patches to the Amp while away from a computer and just use a phone or tablet instead of your computer to do that. VERY handy when jamming outside of your bedroom or while at a gig. Again, not of much use in a bedroom situation where the Kat can be easily connected to a computer.
You can't save more than 4 tone patches to a Kat 50 or more than 8 to a Kat 100. But you can save more than that to a computer/phone/tablet and dl them to your amp via USB, as needed.
Basically, if you have a Kat 100, say, you could develop set lists of 8 songs each. Then you do as many set lists as you want and swap each set list in and out in a group of 8 as needed.
Expanding on this, you can well imagine the additional features that Katana Mk III line might offer. Bluetooth instead of USB connectivity for phone/table use. Expanded memory for up to 16, 32 or 64 tone patches. Etc.
You bullet feature list starts to look as much like a computer/cell phone pitch as it does as an amp. That's a programmable, digital amp for ya.
It’s a little silly I know but it almost feels like having a new amp the sound is so much better! I had been feeling my HRD III was too dark and had considered swapping the speaker or selling it for a blues deluxe or something else entirely when someone suggested I try to raise the amp to ear level. Wow did it work! Makes me really appreciate the physics of sound because when I gig it always sounded good but at home it seemed too dark. Turns out keeping it on the floor in a corner really doesn’t do it justice.
I wanted something that I could put my pedalboard underneath to keep everything tidy. This little shoe rack/entryway bench had the perfect dimensions I was looking for and a load capacity of 260lbs. I sat on it first to be sure and it is good to go! $60 well spent.
NNEWVANTE Shoes Rack Bench Free... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B7KDSZT?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
That’s the link to the shoe rack I used if any other HRD owners are interested.
Follow the cat. It knows where the pedal is.
I got one of these from Amazon. It's the cheapest option I could find.
The description says
It's a latching switch (click on, click off). It works great on my 1980's Marshall.
I would see how hot the stock one gets at high volume.
I doubt it's going to get very hot 2" away from where it attaches.
A smaller thicker but one would probably be ok. Maybe something like this.
Sounds like a problem with the amp. Can you return it?
If not, You could use an attenuator. I just ordered this one for $9. I think they are closing them out. Same as the bugera ps1 ~$100.
I thionk I might skip that and go straight for the Mooer Prime P1 ...
It's 1/4 inch. If your headphones use a smaller plug, that's 1/8 inch, so you need an adapter with a male 1/4 inch plug and a 1/8 female hole. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/6-35mm-Female-Adapter-Converter-Headphones/dp/B07SM4ZM33/
Honestly I’ve been down this route not too long ago too lol, I ended buying a 68 deluxe reverb on OfferUp for about 700 dollars. They’re out there used man and a solid attenuator like the tone king is a good investment even for when that “new amp tube itch” scratches cause it will. I’ve also seen attenuators like the pmatt for dirt cheap . https://www.newark.com/pulse/pmatt/power-attenuator/dp/78Y7684 . Also you say you can record your guitar using the xlr out on the tone master . It’s honestly convenient but having a microphone to mic up ANYTHING will be better in the long run. Also I don’t get the fuss about attenuators being a hassle it’s just two extra cables . Also if your not 90 years old you can lift a tube amp like it’s not a big deal . I say watch reverb or your local OfferUp listings for a good amp with good resale value and get an attenuator for the price of a tone master new. Having the real deal will FEEL good, as much as we all hate to admit we’re some superficial fucks and we care about the tubes and brand. That’s why your looking at a TM that looks exactly like the deluxe reverb. Trust me I was there too lol.
Replacing the cable is the correct way.
You can get this for £9.50. Just attach connectors for your speaker.
You download it to your pc. You need a weird jack to connect it. The tone studio opens up so many possibilities. It has most of not all Boss pedals available, in digital format of course. Many are very good and almost the same as the analog. There is a boss katana sub that has tons of information.
Omnihil 2.0 High Speed USB Cable... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781455FV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share There is a boss katana sub w
>peavy audition 20
Along with the previous advise, you may want to try a pedal or two. Joyo have some great ones that are inexpensive. This Overdrive / Distortion is a good example.
The amp is wholly plugged into the surge protector but the surge protector is plugged into the wall via a 3- to 2-prong adapter (which I’m aware does nothing for grounding).
>You could get one of the Joyo Bantamp heads and the matching cabinets for your money.
The cheapest Joyo head is $139. The cab is another ~$120. They're nice but it's over the OP's budget.
Thnks. Those are great acoustic panels. I have some on the opposite wall behind the monitors and they work wonders to deaden the room. Great investment. Highly recommended.
Here is the DAC manual.
The cable would be 1/4" (6.35mm) mono to 1/8" (3.5mm) stereo.
Here is one on Amazon.
Bugera v5 infinium. https://www.amazon.com/Bugera-Infinium-5-watt-Class-Tube/dp/B013JM0CKI/ref=asc_df_B013JM0CKI/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312139358556&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=12298047875218067549&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvd...
Will something like this work?
JHS Buffered Splitter
It's sounds OK. It's a 8 ohm Celestion Speaker. I went in with zero plans. Just ripped out the electronics and added the wood and Ordered this
2-5x7 Steel Pro Audio Speaker... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y44QN3V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I bought a power supply off Amazon to make the 40 portable and it’s awesome for bringing outside/to a friends. Here’s the link for the one I bought, I’m sure there’s a bunch like it if you dig around some more!
TalentCell Lithium ion Battery... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RDFM55J?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It sounds like you have a "Headphone/Line Out" that cuts the power to the output amp that powers the speaker. If true, you need something that goes between the amp and the speaker.
I have one of these and it's the same more or less as a Bugera PS-1 but absurdly cheap. https://www.newark.com/pulse/pmatt/power-attenuator/dp/78Y7684
That is the minimum solution for your challenge. It's well built but it is a design that is the very least that gets the job done. I have no complaints, but it is a "more you spend the more professional sound options that you get.
> is that it is a bit too loud.
That's a final master volume that turns the whole amp down. You can also use a clean pedal, like a compressor with the compression all the way off.
I picked up an SE a couple years back and had the same problem. Local guitar shop gave me the right tool.
You don't need the official PRS version.
I believe that that's a Cliff jack, specifically, this one.
As others have said, the ring that's broken off is part of the ring that sits below the screw-in face and prevents the jack from touching the metal of the panel it's mounted on.
They seem to sell just the bezel. Here it is for 8¢. Shipping will probably set you back a little more. Or you could just get the whole jack assembly in case I'm wrong about the bezel. Probably CL1298A, but you'd have to verify by looking inside the amp chassis.
What amp is it? "Buffered FX loop" is often, but not always, mentioned in marketing copy and/or manuals.
The other kind is a simple interrupt loop, where they just split the signal chain and add a couple of jacks without any buffering.
As long as your pedals are working in the loop, doesn't matter which you have (but probably buffered).
Guitar: Harley Benton ST-20HSS SBK Standard Series
Amp: Marshall ORI5C Origin 5W 1x8 Valve Electric Guitar Combo Amplifier
So I have a first gen
Peavey vypyr a somewhat internet community loathed analog modeller. It’s not great. It’s not awful. I put this in it- Eminence American Standard... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006BFQUM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share. And it makes a world of difference over the stock “specially designed” Peavey speaker. Speakers do make quite a bit of difference, at least with some of Peavey’s less well put together stuff (not an attack on older Peaveys, which I own and love with their olde speakers mind you). I changed the stock speaker in the valveking 112 which also made a dramatic improvement in it.
Well, my friend, you definitely have an electrical issue in your building. I would first try a simple A/C ground lift. If that doesn’t do it, an isolation transformer might be your solution.
The second spring is present. It was just taken off when I took the photo. Thanks for the advice! Unfortunately, I already ordered this one - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LJY36CK I was sure I wouldn't be able to fix a broken reverb tank - the previous owner just said it's broken, so I didn't know it only needed soldering one wire.
If I have a portable Bluetooth tailgate speaker with a 10w 6.5" speaker stock in it can i replace it with a say 45w speaker replacement would it work?
The tailgate speaker model:
Hypothetical replacement speaker:
#47 bayonet bulb. Either it burned out or the rear contact (little more than a glob of solder) is squished from age and no longer makes contact. These are obsolete, only as cheaply as possible restoration of vintage electronics (like amps and pinball machines), so they don't last...thankfully...their are cheap and $7 will buy a lifetime supply.
Something like this will work fine. 15V is close enough. Amperage doesn't really matter. Anything over 2A will work.
This one has more exact specs but I don't know the size of the barrel connecter or the polarity, + / -, on your Blackstar or this power supply.
You could get a simple headphone amp like the Vox amPlug.
Another good cheaper small amp is the NUX Mighty Mini BT.
There's this stuff called Deoxit D5. It might seem like expensive WD-40, but only because it is. It has a specific viscosity to suck itself into the pot and clean it up and lubricate, but it lasts forever. I bought the 5 oz. can about 4 years ago and it's no where near empty.
Something like this is always useful, and folds fairly flat. Don't have this exact one, but a few that are similar.
I’ll paste exactly what I put on your last post that you deleted:
Looked at a picture of the back, it tells you want it needs.
30v 1a DC. Centre positive.
Stick that in google and you’re off.
Look at the back, it tells you want it needs.
I have uploaded a diagram here. Connected this way would give you a 16Ω load with both cabs and 8Ω with either cab alone. J2 is a switching jack.
I have also asked u/burkholderia's opinion on it. It's essentially the same as he had suggested.
Adding a second jack, in parallel, to cab 2 would cause no issues unless you connected it to the amp first with Cab 1 as an extension to it. This way would be a 4Ω load. Too low for your amp.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Generally two jacks on a cab are wired in parallel. It’s very uncommon to find cabs with series connectors.
One thing you’re going to want to do is to isolate the jacks from the metal jack plates, make sure there is no way for your speaker signal to short. For a series connection you’d wire positive to negative, negative to positive, essentially recreate the bottom signal path here but with a second jack replacing one of the speakers. Make sure they’re very clearly labeled so nothing gets connected incorrectly. You’d then have one speaker which could be used independently and one speaker with a built in series connection. If I’m envisioning things correctly you’d have to use a shorting jack on the series can in order to use it without the second cab.
Honestly I think the easiest thing you could do to save yourself some headache is wire parallel jacks on the cab like normal then connect the speaker cabs using a series connector box. I have one of these Palmer cab mergers, but you can build your own. This would allow you to easily use one or both cabs at any time.
Yeah, Limited-time deal: Donner Electric Guitar Amp 20W, Guitar Practice Amplifier Combo DA-20 with 8" Speaker， Clean & Distorted Dual Channel Sound Circuit Design https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0957NND1T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dl_HY8Y727K530XY916ER44?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Limited-time deal: Donner Electric Guitar Amp 20W, Guitar Practice Amplifier Combo DA-20 with 8" Speaker， Clean & Distorted Dual Channel Sound Circuit Design https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0957NND1T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dl_HY8Y727K530XY916ER44?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
It does, my Kasino has volume, bass, treble and reverb knobs and four input channels, while my orange has a 1/4" headphone jack which I'm assuming could be used as a line out?
This is what I have, it's a Crush 20w not a 25: https://www.amazon.com/Orange-Crush-Twin-Channel-Guitar-Amplifier/dp/B00SG3Q6T2
For your consideration.
Would something like this work to figure that out?
Also would it matter if im using a power conditioner?
Marshall Origin 5.
Your Blackstar has a USB interface.
This Focusrite 2i2 is better than the other one but more money. $40 off this one though.
I doubt you will find a better quality switch. This is the only image of the circuit board I could fine. The power switch is at the top right of the image. You should be able to find a generic 6 pin PCB mounted switch to fit.
If it's in the On position you could make an inline switch for the power supply using something like this switch. Just cut the power supply cord at the amp end and wire the switch in. Obviously leave enough cable at the plug end to work with. Better yet, get a male and female connector and don't cut the power cord at all.
Okay noted! Thanks!
I wish I could make my own cab but I never learned the skill of being crafty.
PRS Paul Reed Smith MT112 Mark Tremonti 1x12 Open Back Speaker Cabinet, 60 Watts 16 Ohms https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0798FC1XM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FETGR37J2A19THZB1RDJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
But it’s weird, this is the one I’m taking about but I’m thinking it’s mislabeled. The pics of it show it was closed, not opened
Go to your library and request a book by Dave Hunter titled "The Guitar Amp Handbook". It explains everything. Or you can order it from Amazon.
Sure, all in it was about $20 and soldering about 4 solder joints. I'll take some photos.
In short, I used this Charging Board , an 18650 battery, Battery holder, and a mini usb extension cable. if you open the battery compartment you can unscrew the AA battery connector with 2 screws and clip the red and black wires. solder those to the output on the charging board and solder the battery holder to the battery in on the board. insert battery, charge it up and rock away.
I ended up opening the amp the rest of the way and hot gluing the board and battery to the inside ( there is plenty of room ) and used a female to male panel mount usb extension and cut a hole in the battery compartment and screwed it in place so the battery door would shut. I get about 8-10 hours of playtime on a single charge!
How are you connecting the Blackstar to your PC? You should be using USB.
From the Blackstar FAQ;
>To record via USB connect your ID:Core amp to your computer using a mini USB cable, and launch your chosen DAW software. Next, select the recording input as your amplifier, set your monitoring source as required and hit record!
The Katana amps are great but if all you want is a way to record direct to your PC there are alternatives. USB audio interfaces allow you to connect your guitar through USB. A Behringer U-PHORIA UM2 is <$50. There are lots of other choices.
Honestly, 3 is probably the best solution long term but there is an option 4, which is to get a TS/TRS coupler that’s rated for speaker use like this. You can then extend it with another speaker cable of whatever length you need.
Be sure to get one with the button for testing GFCI outlets.
Thanks for looking. I took it off and found it marked "Chun Sheng 30," I found their website, no easy way to buy and, while there were a few that looked like that, none marked with a 30.
I found these on Amazon:
I'm debating whether to spend $17 when I only need one and I'm not sure if these will work. Also, I have a mild tremor, so even if they'll work I might mess up soldering it.🤷
All that said, it'd be worth it if it fixed my amp and it's really not a difficult soldering job, (just 5 pins and seems obvious where to put them). I have some concerns about the Amazon ones being in stereo, but the one I took off definitely has 2 points of contact. I'm not sure why an effects loop return would be in stereo, but it seems to be. If you have any insight into that, I'd appreciate it.
Thanks again for looking.
They're 8 ohm, I've had them for at least 5 years, I don't remember what they cost. Newark has them for $23 each but they're on backorder.
Might give these a go. Understated
Ampeg GVT Series GVT15-112 15-Watt 1x12 Guitar Combo Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054JGI0I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_YDGVH8A7W4V2024VAMC5
I’ve got one of these and it ticks all the boxes. Stays clean, but I feel like it’s less glassy than fenders. The baxandall eq is very functional. Effects loop, half power switch. If you crank it, you’ll get some breakup but with the master volume, you can keep it pretty clean. It takes pedals well. Reverb is ok. And I scored it for $280 US. Almost got a blues jr or ac4 because I needed a small amp but this thing showed up and I’m so happy I went with it.
I don’t have any pedals currently, but I did order one of these behringer tube screamers and a compressor just to try them. You can’t really beat the price and the reviews seem to back them up.
I should also mention that I think the dirty channel, gain and reverb on the amp are great as-is, but I’m just exploring some things and chasing the tone, lol! I’ll also add that my other amp is a mustang LT25, which is amazing on its own and really is a great way to explore a lot of different effects without having to purchase extra hardware.
I am in the same situation and am interested in hearing what others think.
Currently, I'm trying a Mesa Boogie 50/50 stereo power amp and 1000 watt plate amp designed for PA.
Within your price limits, you might want to check out something like one of these.125 watt or 225 watt** It's not going to sound the best, but it might get the job done. Class D 120 watts bridged, meaning it's a stereo amp with both sides feeding one 8 ohm speaker.
If you're concerned about the electrical outlet in that particular room, use one of these or something similar to do a basic test. Alternatively, there could be something else (such as an appliance) on the same circuit that is causing the noise in the line. If that's the case, you can use something like this to help eliminate the noise or at least greatly reduce it.
I think it was this one:
I couldn't find it in my order history but its awesome. Space for them to breath, easy to roll out and make some quick changes.
Thanks! That is what I'm leaning towards. I saw this one, but was scared from the reviews and people saying it was wired wrong and made the noise worse. I found this one, it's the same thing right?
Do not use a ground removal product like this, it is potentially dangerous to unground your amp.
You want to isolate the pin 1 signal ground on the XLR output to isolate the signal ground of the amp from the signal ground of the interface/recording device. Simple XLR devices like this are what you want This is very different from lifting/removing safety ground from the amp.
This is what I meant by using a ground lift on the power cable.
They're 8ohm/100watt. I have 4 of them.
The end project is going to be on a three-way switch. First circuit will be a bypass straight to the cabinet, second will go through an attenuator and out to the cabinet, and third will be a dummy load like this.
For now, my plan is to wire two of these in series (200w @ 16ohm , right?) to a female jack and go straight out of the amp, through my DI box, and into the dummy load.
What is the wattage rating of that resistor? I have some similar to these which I have bolted in to an aluminum enclosure with a couple jacks and probe connections. I used two 8 ohm/200 watt resistors with a parallel/off switch for 8/200 or 4/400. The 100 should be okay with a 50 watt amp, but more power/heat dissipation the better.
Okay thank you. If it needs replaced is this fuse okay - Pack of 10 pcs T1a 1A 250V Ceramic Fast-Blow Fuse 30 x 6 mm (1amp) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B077YLZGLZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_RYZPFRPRXTKC59VG61KT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
And do you know how to get access to the fuse ? Thank you so much
There is an open source replacement app that includes additional features, including latency compensation. Setting it isn't ideal, since you slide a slider to sync a click with the light on the amp flashing... I found it didn't match the latency from a YouTube video, and the only way to match that was adjust, switch to YouTube to check, switch back, adjust, repeat. It worked though.
It's beta, but so far I'm impressed. Like it has an actual persistent master VOLUME instead of just the per-amp level settings. (Maybe I just overlooked one in the regular app).
Mightier Amp on Google play:
I'm not associated with it and have only used it for a day, but so far I'm happy.
This is the cable I used to update my DT50: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083PPH57Q?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
You can update the POD HD500 (or any POD HD) using a USB cable and the Line 6 Monkey Software.
I paid $209+$30 shipping for my POD 500HD and $550 for the DT50 ($325 with my traded amp.)
That’s an interesting idea, but it might be overkill for what I do. If you don’t mind weighing in, here’s what my typical pedalboard setup would look like under my original plan:
Guitar > Tuner > Wah > EHX Freeze > Buffered ABY >>
A > Fuzz 1 > Phaser Input 1 > Reverb/Delay L > Amp Channel 1 (or Amp 1)
B > Fuzz 2 > Phaser Input 2 > Reverb/Delay R > Amp Channel 2 (or Amp 2)
ABY is essentially always Y, and both fuzz pedals are essentially always on.
Would the snake/rack effects setup you described be a dramatic improvement over something like this?
A cheap option is a class d power amp like this one . Then connect it to a couple of desktop/shelf speakers. Reason being if you use cab sims from the pedal, you need a flat response speaker rather than a guitar cab. Otherwise you'll be doing something silly like a Greenback sim into a real V30 cab. Basically think of the power amp and speakers like the PA system at a club, the pedal makes the tones, the power amp and speakers just make it loud. On that note, a PA speaker works well for this too. Pretty sure that Mooer is stereo, so if you use two speakers you'll get that experience.
I just bought a brand new micro dark full price and I think it's worth it lol, fuck yeah I'd pay $85 no question. Micro dark has the cab sim built in and the micro terror doesn't so if ur using headphones go dark for sure
I'm also about to do the exact thing you're describing btw because my champion 40 crapped out. If you use one of these you dont have to do any soldering.
I'd say put a 5F1 Champ circuit in it . The Mojotone kit with no cab is three and a half ish.
I did find a bunch of TI LM386 boards for like a buck a pop; just add 12V and you have a really horrible amp :)
Like those only probably worse.