What are
/r/GunnitRust's
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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/GunnitRust:
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/GunnitRust:
Cults.
IPFS
Odysee
Blender
The most popular reviews in /r/GunnitRust:
This makes me curious as to if anyone has used the 10/22 printed receiver in the printed 10/22 vector stock here: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/10-22-vector-stock
This is a link to the STOCK ONLY - IT'S LITERALLY JUST A PIECE OF PLASTIC NOT A FIREARM
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/tool/skull-ar-grip
Currently have this STL free on cults. I suggest printing it with a resin printer with a blu and tenacious mix, but I'd love to see some makes of it. I also have a punisher skull shaped mag release on there for free currently, all you need to do is tap it with a 10/32 tap and it'll be good to go on your AR (once again, I suggest a resin printer)
Link to the STL.
​
This prints in 3 parts all at once, you have the fore end, the main body, and the buffer mount. The buffer mount is keyed and held in place with an AR grip bolt and can then be fused with weldon #3. Additionally, I modeled in an opening for a 5" long 3/8" bolt that will stiffen up the fore end considerably. If you have any problems with the files, or have any questions, let me know ASAP and I'll resolve it.
Available here
Excuse my clumsy finish work, I sanded and painted this in a hurry, so it didn't come out all that great. This has been a fun project and I look forward to seeing people try this out!
There is also Blender. You can move the STL mesh points directly in that software. It's not real easy to use, but there are a lot of videos about how to do things. Also since it is not CAD software everything you do is by eyeball. They may have some sort of measurement tool and I just haven't got that far yet.
Get a high quality cap gun with a metal hammer (PARRIS CLASSIC QUALITY TOYS EST. 1936 Kentucky Pistol, Wood and Steel, Replica, Fires Single Shot Pull Off Caps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FJEZAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_AQ5AWBCTBXYGX4DTV45W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1)
Kind of. I live in Europe, but yeah, it's identical to what you'd find at harbor freight. Difference is all the measurements are metric. Basically this: https://www.amazon.com/MINI-DRILLING-MILLING-MACHINE-XJ9512/dp/B01MUILF9Q
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085C3597S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_vav1Fb876WRS4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This has worked well despite my own misteps lol
Not sure how it is categorized. If you were going with a company that specifies, go with +. There isn't actually a standard for what that means though, so if a company doesn't offer a "+" version, that's not to say it isn't quality. And since ordering I've seen good reports on this stuff by others.
If you budge just a hair more on the budget, you can buy a simple flux core mig welder for under $100. I got one off amazon a few years back, they're plentiful and sold under a variety of names, but they're all basically the same model. Or check craigslist for a used one.
If you buy a regular mig welder used from craigslist, you can still use flux core wire and save yourself the initial expense of buying welding gas tanks and argon. Cheap and leaves you options to grow in the future.
Aliexpress and the other usual chinese websites doubtless have dozens of inexpensive options to look through. How long will they last? Meh, its a hundred dollar welder, longevity wasn't what you paid for.
We in the home gunsmithing community love our dremels and epoxy, but there's not a lot of ways to get around needing some kind of welder eventually. At minimum, shell out the extra thirty bucks and get a wire feed welder and you'll be glad you only half assed it instead of completely jerry rigging a "solution" out of bits and bobs.
Sionyx will outperform any other 'night vision camera' on the market.
It has a 1" 720p sensor. This means the pixels are bigger and can gather more light/ have a higher signal to noise ratio, meaning you will have a clearer image at night.
The bushnell monocular you listed has a 640x480 resolution and no mention of sensor size. The bushnell records at 30fps, and the sionyx at 60fps. With higher frames per second, the image will look smoother when you look through it.
One plus for the bushnell is a zoom lens. The sionyx is great under 100ft, but because of its wide FOV its useless at longer distances. Another pro is the Bushnell has a integrated IR light, but you can just buy a $15 IR flashlight and the sionyx will be able to see in pitch black too.
Also look into this https://www.amazon.com/Sightmark-Ghost-Hunter-Vision-Monocular/dp/B004TDPQUI/ Those use a generation 1 image intensifying tube. Id say it would preform almost exactly the same as the Bushnell, but with less latency. it looks like all the 1x are sold out though. only 2x magnification and up.
idk you can read loads of reviews on amazon where people have the same problem with the PLA+ breaking as it unspools. I've had a lot of prints fail because of that.
look at the reviews and search for "brittle" https://www.amazon.com/eSUN-Printer-Filament-2-2lbs-Diameter/dp/B01EKFV4RS
https://www.amazon.com/eSUN-1-75mm-Printer-Filament-2-2lbs/dp/B01EKEMDA6
I have used this aluminum putty for similar repairs, it has a strong bond and high integrity. My use was structural, not decorative. I don't have any finish suggestions to provide for it, but it should take sanding and paint well.
Can be found here.
Unfortunately, the MCX mounting system was much too fragile for any use, so it's direct thread. There is a version without a pic rail for you guys that use bags. If anyone has any problems, or is confused about something, please reach out to me.
Ender sells an auto-leveling probe for like $40 on Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Leveling-Compatible-Mainboard-Printer/dp/B098LQ9WPX/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=ender+bl+touch&qid=1642009003&sr=8-6
Mix up some clear epoxy and gently paint it onto the frame and on the inside of the magwell and selectively on the finer walls, making sure to prevent it going out of spec. Then gently sand with fine grit sandpaper and Polish for a clear coat.
Should make it stronger, right? I’ve seen a few people use epoxy filler to remove the layer lines of a print before, but as far as I know, no one has tried it on a Glock lower.
Maybe try this stuff: Epoxy-Resin-Crystal-Clear-Kit for Art, Jewelry, Crafts，Coating- 16 OZ Including 8OZ Resin and 8OZ Hardener | Bonus 4 pcs Graduated Cups, 3pcs S https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TVWTG82/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_g7vRm97MAECL4
If anything it would be an interesting case study for the community.
What type of material should I buy? Ive been eying this one https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Schedule-Nominal-0-884-Length/dp/B000H9FWZC/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?dchild=1&keywords=3%2F4%2Bseamless%2Bpipe&qid=1612973007&sprefix=3%2F4%2Bsteaml&sr=8-11&th=1&psc=1
713132 Bw Casey Perma Blue Liquid... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00813HH1I?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I've also used this stuff but you need to dip the metal into it since it's like water so you'll need a chamber and a lot of it. I bought 3 containers of the oxpho stuff and only used about 1/2 of one bottle on that build - it goes far.
First result on Amazon for "Variable DC Power Supply".
I recommend you educate yourself on this stuff, lest you get hurt.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/0941653544/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-IcpFbJVZFSC7
Has a lot of info on steel and pressure calculations. Haven't read through it all yet. Not a very large book, really thin.
Getting this one soon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1884849210/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fRcpFbRM4C2NX
www.Amazon.com/Vertical-Instant-Milling-Operation-Machine/dp/B01NAUGGX5
Linked it for you don't see why we couldn't allow this its not a controlled part. They let us link to 3d printers so I'd imagine we can link to this too.
Whatever you got should work since you can always stain it, it's such a large piece that grain run-out is not an issue really. At that point just choosing wood that has desirable properties for how you're going to work it and how you want it to endure afterward, and also picking for grain appearance. If you are going to carve by hand then something soft with grain that's conducive to carving is best, like sugar maple. For aesthetics, most types of mahogany would look pretty sweet and I've always liked the grain on it for guns like this. I usually hog it out as far as I can on a bandsaw, then use a profile sander like this to power carve the rest of the way, then finish by hand. This sander is kinda expensive but there's a harbor freight version that's like 50 bucks. Either way you do it, have fun!
I had the same experience. Working for a consumer goods company, I once had to make a die that would dome the bottom of this strainer during prototyping because they had issues with it tipping over. I literally went in blind and ended up with all shapes and sizes to hit the drafted dimensions.
You might have better chances buying brass/steel shim stock. Maybe there is aluminum shim stock too. You can get a set and try different thicknesses shim stock that might form better. Maybe .01" thick? Or maybe thats too thin. Im guessing you might be hitting the molecular limit of an aluminum with the thickness used in cans? But this might be against the whole point of your experiment if you have to source unique items like shim stock.
Anyways thought I would chime in; good luck!
I don't think the strain gauges cost much, maybe $30 - $40. It's the stuff you need to get a reading from them that costs money. You need a Wheatstone bridge circuit and either a dedicated strain gauge reader or an oscilloscope with at least 10 MHz frequency response.