The glass of the Nitecore 25.4mm filters fit nicely if you don’t mind unscrewing the bezel to swap the glass out. The cap that houses the glass filter fits over the D4V2, but it’s somewhere between 1-2mm too narrow in diameter so you’ll have to wrestle it on there.
I bought an XTAR VC4S and it works great for all my batteries from 18350 and 1440 to 26650
You can use a polish like Bluemagic (from the auto parts store) or Brasso (grocery store). I just use a pre-treated polishing rag
Hi u/silver-cursor – Great beam shots and very nice discover of the use of this yellow filter. Thank you for sharing this. Is this the same filter that you used?
https://www.amazon.com/Weltool-Flashlight-Replaceable-Streamlight-LF35Y/dp/B096Z922XY/ref=sr\_1\_2?crid=WPOZDMT3RP2G&keywords=yellow%2Bflashlight%2Bfilter&qid=1662907268&sprefix=yellow%2Bflashlight%2Bfilter%2Caps%2C82&sr=8-2&th=1
It comes in different diameters. Maybe, they could fit some of my other Hank
flashlights, too.
Wurkkos WKC05 it's a good clone of the venerable Streamlight HL-X. I reviewed it and compared it against HL-X here.
Same thing happened to me with my first DT8. The screw is M1.2*4. I ordered a kit from Amazon that included that size, so now I have lots of screws.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XMMDHDR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I use the Opus charger. It charges Li-ion/NiCd/NiMh batteries. It has advanced features that you could use later but also auto charging. It also comes with a charger unlike others what have an USB port which means you have to have your own.
https://www.amazon.com/Opus-BT-Intelligent-Compatible-Batteries/dp/B01852TBOU
For any seals that are NOT silicone, Super Lube has an o-ring specific lube. It's listed as Excellent or Good for every other type of material.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C3CZ9CL/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza?th=1
The one you linked to is good for silicone, but has lots of other NC (not compatible) entries. Better watch out with that stuff.
My pleasure! I'm not sure what the rings are made of, it is whatever Hank ships by default. I've been using silicon "Super Lube" on all my threads for quite some time and it seems to work well
Super Lube-21030 Synthetic... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBH9HI?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Left is a Lumentop FW3A clip. Best of the deep carry options but requires a copper washer in the tail cap to make up for the spacing difference. I used these:
uxcell 50 Pcs M18 x 22mm x 1.5mm Copper Flat Washer
The issue is that, while the diameter is perfect, they are too thick as sold. I cut a notch on a flat piece of scrap/cut-off and lightly super glue the washer to it. Then you can take it to a belt or disc sander and sand the washer to a little under 1 mm. Then pull the washer off the stick via the little notch and flatten if needed (if you didn't use too much glue it won't take much force to remove). When the thickness it correct you can make contact and still have the O-ring fully covered and making contact with the tailcap.
The second one from the left is the "deep carry" clip that JLHAWAII808 sells. You can get them on the light with no modification but, like the M2R clip, it is slightly to wide to fit in the actual clip channel. Because *just knowing* would be a splinter in my mind, I took that one to the belt sander too and took it to 1 mm just like folks do with the M2R clips.
Thing is, I work graveyard and pretty much all of these lights, save the K1, are in EDC rotation, so I'm a bit of a clip junkie. I have cargo pants with internally divided side pockets that are perfect for my D4Vs2, MF01 mini, or other similarly sized light, but anything smaller needs a clip. I think I've tried all I could find that folks here have recommended. All take some modification but are better than the stock clips for certain.
Use a hair drier or hot air gun (not too hot to melt rubber or plastic) and get all that water evaporated. Alternatively leave it disassembled for a long period, like a week to let it all evaporate.
The best method would be to put the parts in a dehydrator (I have one for drying PLA filament):
Commercial Chef Food Dehydrator, Dehydrator for Food and Jerky, Freeze Dryer, CCD100W6, 280 Watts, White https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B075ZB3V9S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_850ZRKBR0ERHVYXV2Y0H
I wouldn't worry too much about built in charging. You can easily just pop one of these in your console: Four Sevens Universal magnetic charger
E6000 it will break down using most common sticky stuff remover.
Goo gone is supposed to be good from the videos I have seen.
Goo Gone Mac-GG12 Original Surface Safe Liquid Remover, Yellow https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00006IBNJ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_X0DGTW048QC92DE9G2Q9
This is the standard dc-fix you can also get a smaller amount of this item, and other diffusing options from Boaz on BLF You just have to PM him and he can stick some in the mail to you.
I just wanted to point out an observation after looking at the OP‘s pic. The lanyard cord is being fray about 1/2”+ from the tailcap’s lanyard hole.
So it doesn’t appear to me that the lanyard hole is the cause of the fraying.
Perhaps it is the sharp edges of the knurling higher up on the flashlight body that is cutting into cord?
If so, maybe a short length of nylon-coated fishing leader might help?
I just wanted to point out an observation after looking at the OP‘s pic. The lanyard cord is being fray about 1/2”+ from the tailcap’s lanyard hole. So it doesn’t appear to me that the lanyard hole is the cause of the fraying.
Perhaps it is the sharp edges of the knurling higher up on the flashlight body that is cutting into cord? If so, maybe a short length of nylon-coated fishing leader might help?
I see this one for $75 out the door, but it maxes at 5A. Maybe to get into the 10-20A range breaks the $100 barrier.
Hitec RCD Inc. RDX2 Mini AC Balance Charger, HRC44299 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0858ZS144/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_021AB4FVG4APV5STXEQ0
If you’ve got any small neodymium magnets around, try sticking one to the negative terminal of your battery and using it that way.
I had some trouble with my KR4 switch behaving that way after taking the switch apart for anodizing, a magnet helped but taking a pair of cir-clip pliers and tightening the cir-clip in the tail-cap fixed the problem. It can be kind of finicky, I had to take it apart a few times to get it to work right.
Here’s the pliers I used, go for the 7” internal straight pair, it’s a good fit:
WISEPRO Circlip Pliers Internal/External Heavy Duty Snap Ring Pliers with Straight/Bent Jaw for Ring Remove Retaining Pliers with 7 Inch and 9 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YS1GGJD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_R7NNPHZYG4X1YB5WR9PM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The bike mounts look like this, but I found them in packs of 4 at one point.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B6M5TZZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_069N2V0AMXDET4K7FJMP
There's better ones out there, but these were cheap and I ride on the road for the most part so not too many bumps to move the lights up and down... going to modify them or upgrade soon.
Also here's a picture from a while ago when I attached a bunch to my friends bike. You can buy bike handlebar extension pieces to put more stuff on if you want.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BP8UJC0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
When I bought it, it was $189. The Red/Black/Silver was $239-249. So I got yellow. Now they all seem to be in the 230ish range. But at least not $440!
Interesting, I bought this power supply for the task but didn’t know about the amperage issue.
Not sure how to use the post converter you linked I will have to research that a bit.
I couldn't justify it so I got a Wurkkos WK30 and it's quite good for the price.
I like my MiBOXER C4-12 Battery Charger. It handles 21700 protected batteries. Which is what I bought it for. The Xtar VP4 Plus Dragon and SkyRC MC3000 chargers can’t do that. It even charges my Olight 5000 mA customized 21700 battery.