Anything and everything. Scrap fabric, reworked garments, whatever was available. You should find a copy of the Yale University press book, The Pocket.
Yep. 100% necessary to have stays for the project. It's just beyond the scope of this book. American Duchess is also putting out a new book on 18th century hair and makeup, which has me giddy with excitement. I've wanted Kendra Van Cleave's book and heard excellent reviews but no matter how good it is, it's not $794 good. There's supposed to be a PoD version of it coming out "soon" but no date yet.
I would suggest moire taffeta for the red and velvet for the black. Gold silk satin for the piping. As for the spangled brown, I have no idea. As for the wings, I would suggest something all-in-one for security.
For future reference, Book Depository has free worldwide shipping and Better World Books has free international shipping on books they sell themselves. They do sell books from other sellers, so not all of the books on the site are going to fall into the free international shipping category.
Yeah, I present to you... 1644, apparently (not meant to be self promotion--just showing the entirely not time appropriate thumbnail--but happy to remove, if you'd like, Mods)
AW BRIDAL 6 Layers Wedding Ball Gown Petticoat Skirt 4 Hoops Slip Crinoline Underskirt https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07B48FZRT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabc_ydwVFbBXP9J5Q?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I used this one and it gave the perfect bell shape for my heavy dress! and it’s adjustable so you can have as big or as small of a hoop as you want
Finds in Greenland (and also images from things like seals, manuscripts, etc) suggest that post-viking age dress was pretty similar to general European trends. I would venture to guess that these would also be regionally variant depending on different areas of influence (like England on Norway, Germany on Denmark, Slavic regions on Sweden). This is another book you might try to get your hands on: https://www.amazon.com/Woven-into-Earth-Textile-Greenland/dp/8772889357/ref=pd_aw_fbt_img_2/130-1085207-1792801
Things that are useful and look nice when working in garb:
Some bone tools - especially a turner/burnisher, but I have a bone awl that I love. Good for poking at corners and pressing hand seams. Amazon has some genuine bone ones (mostly for bookbinding, but they would work.)
Thread nippers (akin to these ) more closely resemble the common spring-style scissors of the 16th century. Pivot scissors existed, but weren't as common.
A cute basket to keep projects in!
It's pretty dense, but The Age of Homespun by Laurel Thatcher Ulrich is really good. It's more about the role of textiles in early America, but she's a great author with a knack for using individuals to illustrate the greater history.
Also, it's not a book and doesn't solve your gift conundrum, but if your sister likes podcasts, Dressed might be right up her alley.
Check out Corset Cutting and Making. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HT513P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jYXQFbQ7ACCKW?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
My only complaint is that I would have preferred the modeled photos to be more historical. The makeup and hair is really modern. I also would have liked it if the larger sizes of corsets were modeled on larger women.
I believe you can buy the patterns in PDF on Etsy.
This hoop skirt has a lot of usable flat steel hoop boning you can repurpose (it's not even bad to wear on its own except the material is cheap and not very breathable).
If you are going for a working class look you might be able to pull it off with adding buckles. Working class women frequently wore the same style shoes as men with less pointy toe and low heels like these.
Mules with slightly pointy toe and brocade top were popular so something like this would be very close. If you are going to make a dress that's more 1780s'-1790's you can also just wear a pair of pointy flats.
Here's an instruction on shortened Truly Victorian Walking Skirt, although if you are experienced in sewing you can probably figure out it's just 7 panels of trapezoids with some gathering in the back panels plus a waistband.
For petticoat I would just buy something like this. If it has too much volume then you can always tack down the tulle with a few stitches.
The video isn’t loading but from what I can tell you’re missing a leather strap which you an cheaply get on Amazon( https://www.amazon.de/Homgaty-Nähmaschine-Nähmaschinen-Nadeleinfädler-Nähschere/dp/B07WTSX37X/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=nähmaschine+riemen&qid=1627207672&sprefix=nähmaschiene+riemen&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jc... ) and a bobbin case as well as bobbin these are best found at sewing Maschine supply shops I bought my replacements online on such. Hope I could help you
I’m sure I’ve seen a book like this, but cannot find it. There is one that might be tangentially useful https://www.amazon.co.uk/Demographics-Fashion-Trends-Medieval-Modern/dp/B08MHRNN6Q
I’ll keep my eyes open!
I'd also recomend https://www.amazon.com/Drei-Schnittbucher-Austrian-Master-Century/dp/0692472452 it has mostly late 16th and early 17th century Austrian outfits, but it also has several patterns for "Hungarian" clothes. Hungarian and Polish costumes were basically the same at that time, maybe with a little variation.
If you're looking specifically for the noble's style, I used the "Polish Re-Enactor's Handbook" to help get my costume together (it's available on other sites if you don't want to buy via Amazon.) Sites such as Culture.pl are also a good place to turn to, and an online search for "Sarmatism" is a good stepping stone.
As for more "modern" Polish traditional clothing (Say 1790s and on) I'm afraid I don't really have knowledge in that area.
There are a lot of wooden needle cases on Amazon like this, and they look really nice and historical, as well as being practical for a sewing kit. That's just an example link, so don't take it as a recommendation for that one in particular.
I agree with the other commenter, the princess seams are a dead giveaway to it being a very modern pattern; as well as a false stomacher, which renders the front lacing useless.
The pattern I use is Butterick B4254 and has a good range of options, with a good level of accurace. I find it gives good support and is easy to follow, and is reccommended by American Duchess for a pattern. I have two sets of half-boned stays from this pattern, and only had to do slight alterations to make it sit as tight as I wanted.
However, they say to use very thick boning in my opinion, I would suggest finding a 4mm-5mm boning instead, if youre going the plastic route, because even though it means twice as many channels, it means more support and structure too, helping with the shaping aspect. I needed 21m of 4mm nylon boning for a size 6 off of this pattern. but its always good to buy extra if you can too, just in case. I would suggest you hand sew down your binding, too! I found that doing it by machine made it very messy.
Just some tips! I've done so much research into making 18th century stays is immeasureable. Let me know if you want any more random 18th century factoids haha.
I'm just seeing this.
I would run up a fitting muslin using trapezoidal side gores that attach to the sleeves. If you DM me your email, I can send you a sketch and better instructions. I don't have any image hosting set up currently and I can't find the diagrams I'm thinking of online anywhere.
If you have access to The Folkwear Book of Ethnic Clothing there are directions for drafting tunics dresses with the trapezoidal gores. It's basically this one that they have a pattern for. This is a terrible, terrible source for 8thc England, but the rectangular construction will let you get a similar look without resorting to set-in sleeves.
I have a similarly constructed Moorish tunic based on a 10th-12th-century one in Spain, and it would fit someone with a 55-inch chest. I have lots of ease, but it fits my shoulders, so I look pretty slender in it.
Eyep, me too. I couldn't remember the name of The Big Brown Book either. Had to go pull mine out. It's got a duct tape spine now, but it survived. Here it is:
There are two kinds of gathering feet. One just looks like a foot. I recommend the other one that looks steampunk. I highly recommend the one made for your machine. I have one for each of my two machines: one generic for my Pfaff and one made by Brother for Brother Beast. Of the two, Brother Beast's is less fiddly so worth the extra 20 bucks. Generic one https://www.amazon.com/Yosoo-Ruffler-Machine-Presser-Babylock/dp/B07KYLCKVM/ref=asc_df_B07KYLCKVM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385179114846&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4837716834730733148&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&...
Ruffler feet are not expensive! They are fiddly, but 10 minutes of testing will set you up for quickly doing yards and yards of ruching. You can get machine specific ones for higher end machines. These cost more but are less fiddly. Generic ones are cheaper, fiddlier, and you need to know if you have a high shank machine or low shank. Most seem to be low shank. https://www.amazon.com/Ruffler-Attachment-Presser-Machine-Babylock/dp/B074XM4S97/ref=asc_df_B074XM4S97/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242040131209&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5106774779617996963&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt... Or https://www.sewingpartsonline.com/ruffler-attachment-high-quality-low-shank-55705-ns.aspx?variant_id=282490&gclid=Cj0KCQiAg_KbBhDLARIsANx7wAyiLcIw1YuYWVXr6AF1wszq_ygIwMvwrzxsUUPJfjYU6R5pCfzrcNYaAnZ6EALw_wcB
I would use a medium weight linen. The pictured shirt looks like it is a knit, so there would be some differences with a woven. The only pattern I could find was this one https://porcupinepatterns.com/products/mens-mandarin-collar-shirt Mandarin collar patterns for men are thin on the ground. Even with this pattern you would need to graft long sleeves from another pattern onto it. It's easy to convert a pattern with a front closure to a pullover with a slit neck, if that is what you want. Alternately, graft a drafted Mandarin collar onto a shirt pattern like this https://www.amazon.com/Simplicity-Button-Dress-Sewing-Pattern/dp/B00EMK6VL6/ref=asc_df_B00EMK6VL6/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193987317966&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14104234237901065864&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&am...
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/0486283577/ If you're still looking, I'd recommend this one. The patterns are complicated and demanding, but presume you're using a machine (so probably more late 19th/early 20th "turn of the century" era, like it says).
I mention this one because it has a good variety of sizes for the men's, but also because it includes "boys and girls". If you could adjust the men's patterns to a large boy's size/frame/measurements (I don't know how handy you are with such things), it'd be super helpful. You can probably adjust the size on the pattern if you know what you're doing and can make patterns this complex in the first place.
Historical costuming tends to be layered and complicated, so it's not something that's easy to start sewing if you want to emulate a particularly elaborate and ornate period of dress. You know your skill level best but I can definitely say that as a beginner there's very little in this book I could tackle and successfully do today. BUT if you know what you're doing, you could easily adjust the pattern sizes down a bit more if needed for the menswear!
Happy to help. Defenitly starting on the rite track simple and underclothes first. Do you have the book costume close up? https://www.amazon.com/Costume-Close-Up-Clothing-Construction-1750-1790/dp/0896762262 Also the book cut of men's clothes by nancy waough has a large section on 18thc clothing, pattern constructing, and general info. You can find it free on line (I think on google books). Both of thees resources will help greatly and save you hours of frustration and trial and error.
Bias cut clothing is tricky for things like this,there are so many variations mostly due to the stretch of the fabric used, and also the individual shape/movement of the wearer. Patterns for hosen are best made from old school hands on draping fabric on the wearer. I recommend the book the medieval tailors assistant, It has a exelent chapter on making joined hose, draping etc. https://www.amazon.com/Medieval-Tailors-Assistant-2nd-1100-1480/dp/0896762955
And follow it up with this tutorial on making a maille shirt including inlays.
EDIT: Here's a good non-video tutorial for 4-in-1 European maille.
You may have already found it, and it’s more of a Halloween costume option, but there is this…https://www.amazon.com/Forum-Novelties-Frederick-Douglass-Disguise/dp/B00WLW6ASQ?th=1&psc=1
There are a couple photos in the reviews that gives an idea of what it looks like. Maybe buy one to see if it could be workable? Styled better, possibly colored, etc.? I’ve seen some people do amazing things with cheap wigs.
I'd recommend The Medieval Tailor's Assistant, it's a really fantastic and useful resource that walks you through how to draft your own garments, and has a few things that are similar to what Baelish wears.
I know for initial investment this type of dryer is not cheap (although Amazon appears to have some warehouse deals at $65 ish). However, I have one and it is phenomenal. It will dry your jeans in the middle of winter in about two or three hours. Just pull the wet articles of clothing "straight" to get rid of the major wrinkles ahead of time.
I bought one bottle of this cedar spray. I don't love the way it smells, but it smells worlds better than moth balls. I sprayed throughout my clothes. Link attached because maybe you hate making decisions too and just want someone else to pick something 😬👍
DISCLAIMER: I just got this and I have used it, but I don't know how well it works.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08GD292M8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_ZYVWF9BANNFMHH22V7H4
So i got confirmation, it is in the book « costumes de scenes », page 31
But if I am not wrong the book is only in French :/
My MIL, Eunice, was born in 1917 in coastal Massachusetts and passed away in 2014. She ALWAYS wore a hat when she went out. She had a tweed small brimmed man’s hat she wore in fall/winter, a straw hat with a medium brim for spring summer and a small feathered mini beret shaped hat with feathers for dress. No matter if it was a trip to the grocery store, doctors office or to eat out, she wore a hat. She took her hat off when she visited. And she could pin it back on without a mirror. When I met Eunice in the late 1970’s, she was still wearing gloves. Eunice wore hats because it was PROPER to do so.
My mother, Anna, was born in 1926, passed away in 2009. She was much more “liberated” in her views and life than my MIL. She wore hats to church or when it was colder to match the coat she was wearing. Mom was an accomplished sewist and milliner. In the 1960’s, she made a hat to wear with every suit or jacket and dress she sewed. Later, she bought dress hats to wear with her winter coats, from soft berets to moderately large brimmed hats. She absolutely loved her hats for fashion’s sake. She always wore them at a jaunty angle, and with some feathers for decoration. As an honor to my mom, I wore one of her summer brimmed straw hats with one of her scarves to her memorial service.
So, in short, Eunice wore hats because it was what a proper lady wore. My Mom wore hats because she loved them. She wore them for fashion.
A wonderful book about hats in African American culture is Crowns Portraits of Black Women in Church Hats
Each woman whose portrait is shown tells what hats mean to her, and the significance of the hat chosen.
This is probably off the path for the information you were seeking, but it was nice to write about Mom and Eunice.
Once they are boned it's not something even I know how to fix. Basically, what it looks like from here is that a pattern was enlarged and it would likely fit the person it was designed for. In other words no apparent errors in what you actually did. With the exception of fitting. That's a lot of work, and nicely done, so I hope someone else has a solution. My solution involves starting over. I highly recommend using the techniques from this book : Stays and Corsets Volume 2: Historical Patterns Translated for the Modern Body https://smile.amazon.com/dp/1138061255/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apan_i_HS5ABVYNN4Z3H1BWG3MY. After creating a basic pattern that fits you, slip your current pattern on top of that and correct the lines, staying as close to your original pattern as possible. Mark the bones the same way as your original pattern and make at least one sloper (aka mock up). In a sloper this gap would become apparent, at which point you dart it up until it fits then transfer those changes to your pattern.
You have a good start. If you can fined some fabric or wide ribbon that matches your bows you can gather it and add it as trim up the front opening of the skirt and bodice. or a ruffle to the front of your petticoat, or both. The American duchess book 18th century dress making is a exelent book for you to start learning to make your own outfits and accessory's. https://www.amazon.com/American-Duchess-Guide-Century-Dressmaking/dp/1624144535
https://www.amazon.com/Illuminating-Fashion-Medieval-Netherlands-1325-1515/dp/1904832903
The writing isn't my absolute fav, but I love being able to page through all the images. I'm not entirely sure what you mean by "other people's interpretations" here and what would qualify as a resource that isn't that?
Your understanding of terminology is correct :) The garment in question is likely trimmed or it is a woven in pattern and not pieced or quilted. I would recommend the book The medieval tailors assistant it is quite good at explaining so many things for this time period (and earlier) that often confuses beginners. You may be able to fined it on google books for free. https://www.amazon.com/Medieval-Tailors-Assistant-Sarah-Thursfield/dp/1847978347
I really like it. It was super informative and I like the natural ingredient approach, since a lot of modern hair products make me itchy.
Looking at your other responses, I also have fine hair, and I just don't have enough to do most historical hairstyles without hairpieces. My hair is even long, as in bra strap/bottom of shoulder blades, and there still isn't enough. I use something like this for big 1870s styles. I part my hair from ear to ear across the crown of my head, brush the front half forward, and then clip the hairpiece behind it into a ponytail/bun I've made with the back half. Then I pin the ends of the hairpiece under, and sweep the front half back over it and pin it as needed. That's the basic method with most of the styles in the American Duchess book.
I'm not sure what decade of the 1700s you're shooting for with your aunt, but hairpieces are the way to go. People are willing to let hairpieces fool them so long as they're close to your hair color.
If you can still find it, McCall's M4414 is out of print but would only need minor tweaking to get the right look.
Seventeenth-Century Women's Dress Patterns: Book 2 has exactly this pattern with very detailed stitch by stitch instructions. You'll need to draft it yourself, but it's a comprehensive guide and probably the best resource for it. I've got it on hand - DM me if you want pics from the chapter, I'm happy to send it along
The Steve Madden "Troopa" boots look good. Amazon isn't the only place that has them.
Steve Madden Women's Troopa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D4CJRHG/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_RA5B9VB2PC6B90KEE0VB?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
These Ariat boots are also good, but you'll want to see if you can try them on locally before you buy. Take the fringe out, though.
Ariat Heritage Lacer II Boots - Women’s Leather Ankle Work Boot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012HEBLO/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_2429VD3QB6DX03P23P07
If you decide to wear modern clothes some of the time, you could mimic the style. Arguably history bounding but closer to Disney bounding.
For example, this is a full-length maxi dress with cap sleeves, an empire waist, and pockets in t-shirt jersey. Wear it with a cropped jacket and you have a walking dress look. These examples are $30 each.
I2CRAZY Women's Maxi Dress https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08R8SN2T8/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_BMASYZT2NAA208QQAAVH?psc=1
Love Moda Denim Cropped Jacket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XZP3CGJ/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_SS6BGBBEABK6F3ECVWP3?psc=1
She says it was from Nora Waugh’s Corsets and Crinolines
https://the-lady-victoria.blogspot.com/2014/08/construction-one-embroidered-stays.html?m=1
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsets-Crinolines-Norah-Waugh/dp/0878305262
You can just get a hat with a sloped down brim similar to this. Fold up the brim and iron the crease. If you look at the first image you can see it was clearly made by folding up the brim due to weird creasing.
Look up duct ties. They're usually 3/8".
I buy these. Gardner Bender 46-424 Heavy-Duty Cable Tie, 24 inch, 180 lb, Electrical Wire and Cord Management, Nylon Zip Tie, 50 Pk, Natural White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GATB8G/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_N682DGVYDPZCZACXDPM2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Caftans!
You might be interested in Pattern Free Fashions. All the garments in it are easy, based on squares and rectangles kind of things.
Hey some of those may just work! I'm not too concerned if it's historically accurate, I'm sure my old ones weren't. Just didn't realise they would be so hard to find again.
Also, I found some in the states that may or may not be my old brand. If anyone is interested, click the link. Thanks again. https://www.amazon.com/Scully-Rangewear-Canvas-Pants-Brown/dp/B005DIN1PK/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?crid=3K0VC2VRD2DE5&keywords=high%2Bwaist%2Bcanvas%2Bmens%2Bwork%2Btrousers&qid=1644950008&sprefix=high%2Bwaist%2Bcanvas%2Bmens%2Bwork%2Btrousers%2C...
Out of print but might be of some use: https://www.amazon.com/Simplicity-8881-Historical-Elizabethan-Costume/dp/B007QOPQHU
Otherwise Margo Anderson, as previously stated, or Janet Arnold's Patterns of Fashion 1?
Use this to get your parameters for a time period: https://www.amazon.com/What-People-Wore-When-Illustrated/dp/0312383215/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?crid=12AK5X3CT59JK&keywords=historical+clothing+book&qid=1642874066&sprefix=historical+clothing+b%2Caps%2C587&sr=8-4
And then do a google search for paintings on the time period
Hi! I've been looking myself for a while now so I may as well share my own findings. If you want to sew one: Laughing Moon's pattern.. If you want to but one, the only company I've gotten a response from is Farthingale Costumes; although I haven't bought one so I cant tell if its quality or not. If anyone else has any other suggestions id be open to seeing as well!
My feet are weird and I need wide widths and lacing if possible so I can fit orthotics in. Someone pointed out men's latin dance shoes for 18th century shoes. They have a little bit of heel, they lace up, come in cool colors. This one was recommended to me. Not too expensive. (I usually wear a 9 but it didn't give me much room for my inserts. 10 worked better.) I have not had an opportunity to wear them yet so I don't know how they'll hold up. I was planning on adding a bow or a buckle to the laces to make it look nicer.
I haven't worked on this project yet, as I don't have time right now. I did buy the book that the person above recommended: https://www.amazon.com/M%C3%A9xico-durante-Siglo-propios-extra%C3%B1os/dp/6139441374 and it's very informative! Based on what I've read so far, to make this outfit, I'd sew a shift from the early 19th century, and then make a simple gathered skirt, petticoat, sash and probably buy a rebozo.
Idk if your husband's little sister knows about American Girl, but one of their characters, Josefina, is set in this time and place, and that's where I initially got the outfit idea. They used to make kids' sized outfits, and they occasionally pop up on ebay. You could check that out as an alternative too.
Here's the image of the statue at the church in Turin It's a front lacing gown, not back lacing, but it shows how far and wide the style was worn.
I can't find all the documentation I had for it but this was my Norse outfit for a $20 and under challenge back in 2011. Granted, that was a bit ago but I could probably still get away with under $25 today.
Where are you looking for you fabrics? For the outfit linked above, I used linen from ebay. I've also found good deals at Fabric Mart and Etsy. The brooches aren't 100% period but they were pretty good for being oval pendants I added pin backings to. The pendants were on sale for under $2 each.
And seconding u/carrot_cake27 's comment about using sheets - I've found plenty of linen curtains at thrift stores before. Check that out as well for cheap fabric.
It’s definitely a historic-inspired costume rather than an accurate recreation so you don’t need to be too worried about getting anything exactly right. It was likely sold with this sort of thing: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Renaissance-Medieval-Costume-Dresses-Evening/dp/B07HF25MVD/
You need some sort of shift or chemise - long sleeve or short, high neck or low as you like.
I can’t immediately find one that’s quite what I’m looking for - this is the closest but you’d need to make it as long as the overdress: https://www.folkwear.com/products/223-a-ladys-chemise?variant=35454385486
The construction and assembly is the same as a modern jacket except theres no collar or facing. I used Medium and heavy horsehair interfacing for the front and a heavy canvas for the back. The lining is the same as the jacket except for extra room in the back seam and around the arms - I followed the instructions in the book to cut it
This is the book: https://www.amazon.com/Tailoring-Singer-Sewing-Reference-Library/dp/0865732426
The essential place to start for that period of clothing is Drei Schnittbücher. Then see the books by the Modern Maker, Fingerlin on Kloster Alpirsbach (the only surviving working-class doublet before 1650), and Janet Arnold's books and articles.
Underwear in 1570 Augsburg is a shirt (Hemd), doublet (Wams), and hose (Hose) which are divided into upper and lower halves. Then in public a respectable man adds one or two layers such as a coat (Rock), jacket (?), gown (Schaube) or cloak (Mantl).
I think what you're bumping up here is that corsets are solidly industrialized by this point in time, so drafting would be done at a factory by a few people who personally trained their staff. You're basically looking for trade secrets held by people who have been dead for a century.
The closest book I can think of is Corset Cutting and Making by Marion McNealy, but that's for like 1900-1920, and it's based on a book that's a target incomplete rarity. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079HT513P/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_0GBT9622C42J8VWZSTRP
Your most historically accurate choice would be to buy a corset from someone else in a stock size! Otherwise, I agree with the suggestion to look at Symington's, resize the pattern to fit you, and then inform the construction from reference books and extant corsets.
Atelier Sylphe on Etsy also has many patterns available pulled from corsets in her collection. The level of detail she gives is incredible, and I highly recommend buying from her for the info. It looks like she's currently on vacation, but check out her shop when she comes back. https://etsy.me/3AghKwy
Not knowing what era, this is a good book.
https://www.amazon.com/Medieval-Costume-Recreate-Fashion-Costumes/dp/0486429857
Stage Costume Step-By-Step: The Complete Guide to Designing and Making Stage Costumes for All Major Drama Periods and Genres from Classical Through the Twentieth Century https://www.amazon.com/dp/155870406X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_A7z2FbE64PF8T
Besides books, you can always get her really good hand sewing needles. We never have enough needles. These are really nice: Bohin Sharps Hand Needles, Size 3/9, 20 Per Package
As far as books, The Tutor Tailor is good.
Dress in the Age of Jane Austen is so amazing, but it might be over the price limit. It's genuinely one of the best and most comprehensive books about clothing I've ever read. https://www.amazon.com/dp/0300218729/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_Ndx0FbRVHMRYB
The Pocket by Barbara Burman and Ariane Fennetaux is also excellent. So informative about women's lives and opens up ideas about clothing that aren't there without this kind of focused study. https://www.amazon.com/dp/0300253745/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_Dfx0FbPXDYHXB
I can recommend you this book: https://www.amazon.de/Medieval-Costume-England-France-Centuries/dp/0486290603/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=medieval+costume+England+and+france&qid=1606598816&sr=8-1 I read it and it's really good, especially for starters! (I'm one myself haha)
I was able to find a book called The Empire's New Clothes: A History of the Russian Fashion Industry, 1700-1917 by Christine Ruane from the description on Amazon-
“This engrossing book explores the impact of Westernization on Russia in the 18th and 19th centuries and presents a wealth of photographs of ordinary Russians in all their finery. Christine Ruane draws on memoirs, mail-order catalogues, fashion magazines, and other period sources to demonstrate that Russia’s adoption of Western fashion had symbolic, economic, and social ramifications and was inseparably linked to the development of capitalism, industrial production, and new forms of communication. This book shows how the fashion industry became a forum through which Russians debated and formulated a new national identity.”
Hope this helps!
This is basically what I've gotten in the past: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B085FPWD1M/
The ones I actually ordered are no longer available, but these are nearly identical.
You are probably thinking of Cut My Cote. (amazon link) (review blog) It's a classic.
What a treasure! You might be interested in this book, <em>Resplendent Dress</em> by the textile historian Elizabeth Wayland Barber.
Authentic Victorian Dressmaking: This is a re-issue of Butterick's Dressmaking, Up to Date which was published in 1905. This book describes techniques used in dressmaking as well as creating patterns and altering clothing. This was the guide for home dressmakers at the time.
Turn of the Century Fashion patterns: This book includes patterns as well as drafting instructions.
There's also Vestina bodice. According to the book Corset Cutting and Making, these bodices were corded instead of having bonings and they were buttoned up in the front. They were really worn for providing warmth and anchoring for stockings. The book has a few patterns for girls' corsets but it didn't provide too much information.
RedThreaded makes corsets from all historical eras. Otherwise you might have to specify which era. Smaller seamstress businesses specializing in historical costumes usually only make costumes of one particular era and that includes corsets.
Modern corsets aren't the best because well-made ones are usually for tightlacing. They are way tighter in the waist than how they would've been worn. Then the cheapest ones from Aliexpress/eBay are usually so poorly made that they cause physical pain. I have found a few in the middle of the pact that are good for their price, for example this one from Amazon if you are tall. It's not very curvy and it's long in the hips so it's perfect for 1910's.
I know that tightlacing people really dislike Corset story and Orchard Corsets. IMO Orchard Corsets are better than Corset Story and while they are not curvy enough for tightlacing, they are okay for costumes. Just make sure it fits at the top and bottom too (many people only look at waist measurements not realizing it can be painfully tight at the top and bottom, as your underbust and hips don't compress nearly as well as your waist).
If you are going making your own route, I recommend Scroop Pattern's Rilla Corset. It's just a few panels and you only need one layer of fabric.
For once something I know a bit about! There's Weldon's Practical Needlework. You can find it online in a whole bunch of forms.
Amazon (a rerelease of the first book - there's a whole series of them) archive.org (scan of an original of the first book)
Just do a search online! There's a whole slew of patterns for things, including gloves! Lots of Victorian and turn of the century English needlework. So it's not just knitting, but anything that could be considered "needlework"
This book may have more photos that you can use. The photos are from the V&A museum who has the House of Worth records. The photos are in black and white.
Peachey Press does a good range of books on costume of the Tudor/Stewart period. The one I have is this one:
http://www.stuart-hmaltd.com/stuart-clothing-users-guide.php
I've also used a brilliant book for medieval outfits
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Medieval-Costume-Recreate-Fashion-Costumes/dp/0486429857
Hope those are useful.