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The MB-1C pod was the standard free-falling unit that was carried underneath the B-58 fuselage on the centerline. It was basically a finned aerodynamic shell for a pair of fuel tanks plus a variable-yield thermonuclear bomb. The pod was 75 feet long with a diameter of about 5 feet. Empty weight was 2500 pounds without the fuel and the warhead, but when fully loaded with fuel and carrying the standard W39Y1-1 warhead it weighed 36,087 pounds. The pod was attached to the aircraft by three hooks. The pod had an equipment bay, a forward fuel tank, a bay for the thermonuclear weapon, an aft fuel tank, a tail cone and fins, plus an attachment pylon. The four fins were mounted at 45 degrees from the horizontal centerline and were slightly offset to give the pod a slow spin during free-fall. The warhead was fused by a set of barometric switches, set to trigger the weapon when the preset pressure was reached. Fuel and fuel pressurization disconnects released and closed instantly when the pod was released.
Good pictures of it here:
I was living in College Park at the time and when we finally dug out and got to Rt 1 we went looking for liquor stores and nothing was open! We ended up having to go all the way up to Vet's Liquors and they were absolutely mobbed.
Number one rule: don't be a jerk. If people are out and about on the main roads of Pennsic, then, yes, it's probably fine to take their photos. However, ALWAYS ask when you are in a private camp. It's the good old expectation of privacy rule. You can expect some privacy in your own camp but not when you are down at Merchants or on the Battlefield.
Other than that, there really isn't anything about cameras in general. I've taken tons of photos at Pennsic over the years and the night shots there can be glorious. Here's one I took last year where you can see the stars in the background.
Been going myself since 2006. Many people only go the second week, called War Week. The first week is called Peace Week. Although it's 17 days on the calendar, it's really the Friday before Peace Week - starting at noon- until the Saturday of War Week. Three weekends and two work weeks total.
Midnight Madness - a tradition during the Wednesday of War Week.
Just for the sake of information:
source: http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/works-of-art/91.1.1402
"Garland bowl, late 1st century B.C.–early 1st century A.D.; Augustan Roman Glass; H. 1 1/2 in. (3.8 cm), Diam. 7 1/8 in. (18.1 cm) Edward C. Moore Collection, Bequest of Edward C. Moore, 1891 (91.1.1402) SEE COMPLETE RECORD . This bowl was cast using batches of different colored glass to create four roughly equal sections in translucent purple, yellow, blue, and colorless glass. On the interior is a lathe-cut groove just below the rim. The principal decoration comprises four hanging garlands of millefiori glass (59.11.6) fused to the upper surface of each quadrant. Few vessels made of large sections or bands of differently colored glass are known from antiquity, and this example is the only one that combines the technique with fused-on decoration. The bowl thus represents a masterpiece of glassmaking from the period when cast glass was beginning to be supplanted by vessels made using the newly invented technique of glassblowing."
By the way I think it is face up.
EDIT:
Another pic: http://imgur.com/1x42hme
source: http://www.ipernity.com/doc/laurieannie/24659313/in/album/472491
And seems definetely faceup on the original photo
One way was certainly guard dogs.
Places like the Met have ceramics of intimidating Molosser (Mastiff) type dogs dating from 2000-1700 BCE. This dog looks quite similar to the modern Molosser (Mastiff) type breeds.
There is also the rather famous Cave Canum (Beware of Dog) mosaic buried under the ash in Pompeii in early CE.
So we are easily looking at thousands of years of big, scary looking dogs that would either deter robbers from trying or ensure intruders would be caught and trapped for the groundskeeper to find and deal with or potentially immediately maimed in the process.
There are a huge array of breeds of dogs designed to alert to, corner/keep, or outright attack strangers (often different breeds served each function). Many countries have variations on the theme (English Mastiff, French Mastiff, Neapolitan Mastiff, etc), but the basic ideas were the same. Purebred dogs are really fascinating bits of human history, as the working breeds who showed up over the years run in tandem with the needs of those people. This includes the fairly recent development of true "companion" breeds, which only came to be when the wealthy had time and money and food to spend on something that didn't provide them with time, income, or food in return.
I feel both. Sometimes I feel localized in my head, observing what my body does. I think it is best summed up by this line from the Rig Veda:
On the Tree of Life there are two birds, fast friends.
One bird eats the fruit of the tree;
the other bird, not eating, watches.
It means that there is one thing within us that participates in the field of action and another that simply observes without judgment. I saw a guy, somebody like Deepak Chopra or someone, once speak directly to the observer in each audience member's head. It was cool how he did it, but I can't remember the trick. It really made you acknowledge this second aspect of yourself. It just rides along.
Here's some more on it, talking about Joseph Campbell's ideas surrounding it.
Want to learn something new? There is a class for that at Pennsic. Want to see a certain type of garb done well? There will be a person for that at Pennsic. Want to see some ridiculously awesome kits that will make you drool? You'll see it a Pennsic. Want to party like it's 1499? You can do that at Pennsic - for the full two weeks. Want to buy x,y, or z but not sure where to find it? They'll have it at Pennsic.
I recall the story of a guy that went to Pennsic with nothing but a wad of cash. He was able to buy a tent, a bed, and all the garb he needed for his stay at Pennsic. I've also seen for myself people break down along the road to Pennsic only for several other people to stop and help. I also know of a lady a few years back whose ride caught fire - destroying her entire kit, garb and all. Within a couple of hours of her getting to the site, she was given a tent to use, a cot, a bow and arrows to borrow - everything she needed for her Pennsic. Because that is the type of people that go to Pennsic - people who want to help and understand the magic of Pennsic.
Plus, this: http://www.ipernity.com/doc/jubileel/34114749/in/album/693467
Welcome to Fantasy Fest! Here he is in another costume.
For the lovers of female form, here's a photo for you
NSFW, of course.
Allegorical English School painting (c. 1610) of Queen Elizabeth I at Old Age with allegory of Death and Father Time.
(Location of original painting: Corsham Court, EAN-Number: 4050356835081)
www.corsham-court.co.uk/Pictures/Commentary.html says: "This portrait of Elizabeth I illustrates the difficulties she encountered during her troubled reign. For example, conflict between Protestants and Catholics was rife and the re-drafting of the Book of Common Prayer (held in her left hand) was a sensitive issue of the time."
Sorry for the bad quality. The original scan was quite small. I vectorized and enlarged it.
In the back cover illustration to Lewis Carroll's <em>The Hunting of the Snark</em> (1876), Henry Holiday may have alluded to this painting after rearranging it a bit.
Scrolls are an ancient decorative devise used mostly to fill space and look aesthetically pleasing.
Blacksmithing is an ancient craft and in ancient times iron was horrendously expensive to manufacture and work. It was reserved for weapons and tools, but it was also used as a show of wealth.
Even the wealthy wouldn't want railings or gates of solid plate so the iron was used decoratively - check out this Cathedral screen in Winchester from the 13th Century, or these decorative hinges / studding on the doors to Notre Damme.
Scrolls can also be used structurally, they act as cross bracing in gates to keep them square, or support shelves or loads.
They are basically an ancient detail that has stuck for centuries because they work and look impressive when done well. Unfortunately they are also used by the lazy and unimaginative and can look stuck on and pointless. The value of steel has dropped massively since the industrial revolution so they are no longer a cost saving measure, it actually costs more to make scrolls well, as labour costs are high.
Source - I am a blacksmith.
I was looking for this picture online to share with you all, because it always brings a smile to my face, and I found this woman's page.
I have no idea who Kicha, the user who put this collection together is, but I am seriously impressed with her. Not only did she find and post all these pictures, many of which are rare, she wrote detailed captions for each one. I'm probably going to be looking at this the rest of the day.
The new bits of the story are:
The body was recently modified with cuts into the sides of the body in order to mount support beams to got a tent cover to disguise the launcher as an ordinary truck.
This truck cover caught fire during the rocket launches and in turn set fire to the tires. The fire damaged the vehicles after which the operators abandoned it.
The camera man also claims that this is a BM-21-1 that only the Russians have. I'm not too sure about the last claim though.
Edit: yeah the last bit is false, Ukraine has BM21-1s. Here are several pictures of them in stock with Ukrainian forced over the last few years: http://www.ipernity.com/tag/594807/keyword/2335745
I'm not fluent yet but am working on it. Three things drive me and keep me going when other demands compete for my time. First, I love the idea of a universal conlang. Being a person who enjoys learning languages (I'm always studying one), I find the relative speed of acquiring the language deeply satisfying. Second, I like the community. We are a self-selected, highly-educated, like-minded group scattered widely by geography, language, and culture. And third, those fluent in Esperanto have the opportunity to contribute to and shape the language in ways not possible in other languages. It is possible to add to the body of literature, music, science, and knowledge in ways that enrich Esperantujo. Just think of the videos of Evildea, Wikipedia entries, or epic work of Esperantists like Michel Derejger, who translated "The Phantom of the Opera" (check it out: http://www.ipernity.com/blog/mike59/748731). I would love to be good enough to write books or materials that will be used by Esperantists in the future.
My friend just visited here a month ago!
I once researched this church for a grad-level class. Apparently English pilgrims traveling to Santiago de Compostela journeyed along the Via Turonensis, and had likely visited churches with distinct sculptural programs on the voussoirs of the arches above the doorways like Aulnay de Saintonge, Saint-Germain, and Notre-Dame at Poitiers. This style, in turn, may have influenced the sculptural program at Kilpeck.
P.S. Love the Sheela-na-Gig and the Dog/Rabbit sculptures.
La retejo Ipernity enhavas multege da artikoloj en Esperanto: http://www.ipernity.com/search/blog?w=0&q=esperanto
Por eviti grandan perdon por Esperantujo, mi proponas ke la aŭtoroj faru kopion per la retejo Medium.
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/302581/45876028
Used at Rolls-Royce, Ansty, to finalise pipe runs, wiring schemes, component siting, etc., prior to production.
The Marine Spey has provided power to 10 different warship classes. Kawasaki, Japan, continued manufacturing it under license into the late 2000s to power four classes of destroyers, the latest of which entered service less than a decade ago.
Second this. You have to find a personal routine and you want to make sure you really master all the gear you need, even when you are cold and tired. And you will enjoy the hike more when you have honed your skills and gear to perfection on overnight trips before you start on a longer trip. Weather / season also has to be taken in account.
You should be able to find a spot on the mostly wooded peninsula on Lovatnet itself. Here's a street view as seen from the road above.. There's a path going down just up the road on the right which will lead you to the wreck of DS Lodalen, and if you keep walking along the path for 20 minutes or so, you'll eventually come to the highest point on the peninsula - it's the one with a great big cross on it. That's as far as I've been, so you could find something in the immediate surroundings there, or try to explore a bit more. You might just find the perfect spot closer to the water where there's less trees.
^Also, ^there's ^probably ^no ^ghosts ^there... ^Probably.
Here's the front and here's the back of my 1580's Venetian peasant dress. I made it a few years ago but I still love it. Here's one of the inspiration images for the dress.
The second one is later than what you are looking for and based on the last quarter of the 15th century but it is pretty well done.
This is more what you want to look for
Allegorical English School painting (c. 1610) of Queen Elizabeth I at Old Age with allegory of Death and Father Time.
(Location of original painting: Corsham Court, EAN-Number: 4050356835081)
www.corsham-court.co.uk/Pictures/Commentary.html says: "This portrait of Elizabeth I illustrates the difficulties she encountered during her troubled reign. For example, conflict between Protestants and Catholics was rife and the re-drafting of the Book of Common Prayer (held in her left hand) was a sensitive issue of the time."
Sorry for the bad quality. The original scan was quite small. I vectorized and enlarged it.
In the back cover illustration to Lewis Carroll's <em>The Hunting of the Snark</em> (1876), Henry Holiday may have alluded to this painting after rearranging it a bit.
That is a sphinx moth caterpillar - possibly a Hippotion species such as <em>Hippotion scrofa</em> or a close relative.
I share your love of abandoned places and spend some time hunting them down.
There are a couple of abandoned bridges in LeGrand, IA that might be worth visiting - one fully standing, the other mostly torn away.
Another great abandoned place, if you can find it, is the Gardiner Consolidated School near Perry. It's been slowly falling apart for something like 50 years. Problem with that one is that it's well concealed by trees; also I think it's on private property, such that I was probably trespassing to get my shots (although there is no fence or sign to warn you off).
>Virol was a vitamin based malt extract initially made by Bovril limited.
Malt or bone-marrow ?
Guess I haven't contributed to one of these threads before. My wife and I just got back from a vacation in Europe to celebrate our 30th anniversary, during which I shot a lot of stereo image pairs.
One of my favorites from the trip is this detail from the exterior of St. Peter's Cathedral in Regensburg, Germany. Cross your eyes a little to see in 3D. It was shot with a pair of synchronized K20Ds through old manual-focus Vivitar 19mm lenses. The dramatic perspective effect is further emphasized in 3D, suggesting it comes from not only the short focal length but also a wider than usual stereo base, *i.e.*distance between the lenses, of 24cm.
Nicholas Wotton, +1482, rector of St.Martin, Outwich
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/stiffleaf/16631455/in/keyword/12625/self
Brass relaid at St. Helen's, Bishopsgate
http://www.british-history.ac.uk/survey-london/vol9/pt1/pp36-51
Always manual for me. Always expose for the highlites. Here's one I took just last night:
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/764145/32765609
Nikon D700, 24-70 lens ISO 4000, f2.8 (wide open), -1/3 exp. comp. Shutter fired at 1/80
I keep my thumb on the exp. comp. wheel, and am constantly changing it as needed.
Concert lighting can be bad, rapidly changing, or sometimes done very well. Flexibility is the key.
What evidence is there that bananas used to be bigger? The bananas at our local stores are huge, I wouldn't want something larger. I looked through a bunch of pics of people eating bananas from the 60s, and most looked the same size or smaller (example).
actually, you are carrying around a mug with the function of a windshield added.
I prefer a single-walled cookpot, with a good and functional windshield to boil my water. For efficiency, I usually boil only half the water I need for a specific beverage (cocoa, soup, sauces, coffee) and then thin it with cold water to drinking temperature to save fuel and weight.
If rehydration is the topic, I of course have to boil the whole amount of water.
Now for the windshield/cookpot combo:
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/44306302/in/album/961636
I would not go below 1liter capacity on my cookpot, even if I only boil a third of that. A larger pot absorbs the heat from my little alcos better than a mere mug, and when you want to melt snow for your water, even 1 liter is skimpy...
Consider myog and do a Ray Jardine kit.
Shelter and sleep system should be considered together. I saved about one pound of qulit and clothing by replacing a net tent under my tarp by a inner tent - keeping the ever cooling breeze down:
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/49112268/in/album/1239318
There was no weight penalty as the inner tent fabric is even lighter than no-seeum netting.
The DCF saved me about half a pound, if you prefer silnylon, it is that much heavier, and also a bit sturdier I have to admit...
OK for touring, see the bike: a rigid frame, not even a front shock.
IMHO not so good for real mountainbiking. I do quite a lot of bikepacking with my full suspension bike. The one real concern is to keep all the water strapped to the frame, because water is heavy. The rest of the stuff is light enough to go into any backpack. So I have bottle holders to accept 3 bottles on my bike, holding a total of nearly 1gallon of water. The holders must be good quality and the bottles get secured with extra straps to survive our rough rides. The rest of the gear (tent, sleeping bag, clothing, food and cookset) goes into a normal backpack.
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/48788846//in/album/1237488 securing straps removed, as we were having a stop to refill etc.
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/49112394/in/album/1239318
Needless to say that we shredded the mounting of a"normal" pair of panniers during our first outing. Only expedition grade Ortlieb panniers would survive our biking stlye.
So, the set may be fit for mild touring, and if this is your thing, go for it. But be aware of the limits (always a good idea...) and check the stuff out on short outings, before your tour depends on it!
Happy bikepacking!
I live in Switzerland and we may have similar issues with weather. I found out that a DCF tarp combined with an inner tent (not mere mesh!), weighing some 500grs/16oz gives me much more warmth per weight than hefty blankets/quilts/sleeping bags. Actually, the below setup is good down to freezing point with damp and wet ground:
Therma-Rest Z-lite on the ground
Inner tent on the Z-lite
Therma-rest neo-air shorty for additional insulation (shoulder and hips, for the legs, the Z-lite is enough) inside the inner tent
Then a synthetic qulit of 300grs (10oz) total weight
and a western mountaneering nano-lite down quilt of another 300grs total weight to go on top of the synthetic one.
Very packable and pretty light weight. The key factor is to keep the ever wafting breeze off your immediate sleeping surroundings.
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/49112268/in/album/1239318
I do not like any waterproof blankets, as perspiration will always lead to condensation and wet out the blankets. So the waterproofing has to be quite far away from all the thermal insulation to make sure all that water vapor can get out. The inner tent is dwr material and very breathable.
good nights, then!
imho you are absolutely right. I would never indulge into the work doing a backpack compromised by a weak point like this. I do top loader, rolltop or drawstring. One or the other small zippered inside pocket for cash/card and/or documents, but that's it then.
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/47535654/in/album/1202584
happy sewing!
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/album/1268100
I put an aluminum tubing loop in a backpocket. Works far better than foam. If foam is sturdy enough, it is heavy, if not, it breaks or does not transfer the weight.
Absolutely. Adding quilts does the trick. Plus think sleep system, not just bag/quilt. An inner tent as opposed to a mere net tent will give you a lot more warmth per weight than a down bag!
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/49112268/in/album/1239318
My water froze to slush climbing Whitney in October 2018. Lesson learned: Always take some hot water in a vacuum flask with you if it gets somewhere near chilly and you do a substantial climb...
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/47564460/in/album/1202584
Well, sometimes it does. I've seen 1st century Roman wooden spoons in the British Museum (google search shows me this one: http://www.ipernity.com/doc/laurieannie/34609521 which looks very similar if it's not the same one) and I'm sitting next to a spinning wheel made in the early 1860's (we couldn't really date it more accurately but it's conservatively 140 years old and still works perfectly well .. after a bit of fixing up).
So you just never know! I think that's sort of the magic and mystery with hand crafted things like this. Although I've never had it happen to me (yet), I've also known several folks who found things they made in antique shops which was pretty cool!
Here's the cover I made back in 2007 for an ez-up. My Mom is in front of it for size (ignore the cooler!). The fabric was some sunbrella I got for a steal - $1 a yard on an ebay auction. It was still being used at a shower tent last time I checked.
Now, of course, finding fabric that cheap won't be easy but it's not that hard either. Rather than a full cover, you can just do the walls as a hang up (way easier) and make some faux dagging to velcro or otherwise attach to the ez up canopy cover - it's a lot less weight on the canopy this way, less money on fabric, and less hassle, really. I'm considering doing this again since I have only a Mini in Drachenwald and would like to camp at events again.
My plan is just to get painter's drop cloth (canvas! Not the plastic!) to make the walls. For ventilation - there are a couple of options: have both a front and a back "door" or you can just get some thin cotton mesh/linen mesh to use for windows. Since you'll be camping in the summer, the doors are probably a decent enough option.
What is your budget? I've seen some very nice period tents for around $400~ $500. You'd need to make the poles but that is something someone in your local group probably knows how to do and can show you.
Here is my ez-up cover from many, many years ago. At least two years ago, it was still being used for a shower tent. Any strong ez up (ie, not the $30~$40 ones) should be able to take a canvas cover. They aren't super hard to make if you can cut out isosceles triangles and regular rectangles. Really, the hardest part was pushing all the fabric through the machine. Just make sure it has "windows" (I used netting and had flaps made out of the canvas for them) or can open on the sides to air it out.
Alpha la Kafejestrino:
Ĉap 00 - http://www.ipernity.com/doc/aaronibus62/album/237407
like this then?
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/pkoen/15306555
The OP photo is with a hydrogen alpha narrow bandwidth filter. This one is with a film that just cuts down brightness and would be how it looks like to your naked eye.
Far Side and PBF...I love those! In fact I translated two PBF strips before...I think it was the one about the tree and the axe, and I don't remember which was the other one I did :P
I have been translating my favorite manga: http://8ch.net/esperanto/res/1384.html http://www.ipernity.com/doc/229112/album/761868
A lot of nice detail here:
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/laurieannie/album/464731
including the front of the mansion, the sculpture in the south terrace, and the gardens.
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/laurieannie/24037549/in/album/464731
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/laurieannie/24037795/in/album/464731
Looks like this is a statue of Hatshepsut when it was on display in the Met Museum of Art. Can't find it in Wikipedia though.
Actually, I sewed mine on a $200 sewing machine. I currently have a Heavy Duty Singer than I have no doubt could handle it. It's only about $150. What you need is an all metal body for the machine (plastic casing is fine) and the correct needle size.
I managed to snag a deal on the fabric online many years ago on ebay and made the entire tent for $35. You can see the tent, sunbrella, not canvas in the background of the linked photo. However, if the machine can sew sunbrella, it can sew canvas.
I bailed on flickr a couple years ago and moved to Ipernity. It's sort of a "flickr that was" interface, and they have scripting support for copying your pictures across from flickr en masse.
It is the lobby of the Fairmont Hotel, although it looks a little brighter now!
Absolutely! The above is a link to a photo I took at Pennsic of a lady that had her wheelchair done up as a horse drawn carriage. Very, very cool!
Aye, plenty dotted around - some is ok, often it's crap.
There was a large coal mine below this structure, which closed in the 1980's I believe.
I crossed the nearby canal on a disused railbridge, the line which went through the tunnel shown in the album.
Where the line headed over the canal, it headed past Charles Roberts, a rail engineering company my grandfather once worked at (he also worked previously at a mine called Hartley Bank, a little further up the canal, no trace of which survives save a landing on the canal and the name of a wood over the former site).
A couple of miles from the viaduct is a pre-railway tramway viaduct, which leads to a tunnel, no more than 6'6" in height.
I made another album of the rail bridge over the canal and some other bits.
Small decorated tripodal chairs are common enough as finds from Mycenaean Greece. They tend to look more or less like so but more elaborate ones can be found. Oftentimes they have figures seated in them, like in the second image. Sometimes these are identified as a deity or ruler on a throne, although it's often unclear what precisely is being represented. In any case, such chairs were certainly familiar to the Mycenaeans, although I can't say anything about how common they would have been as furniture.
Nagahama (長浜市 Nagahama-shi?) is a city located in Shiga Prefecture, Japan on the northeastern shore of Lake Biwa. source and more here: http://ojisanjake.blogspot.com/2010/07/shrine-haikyo.html#.VCQxoldnvHZ
Damn you're making me homesick, awesome collection. That's an old picture of Calgary though - this dude takes pictures that really show off the modern beauty of the city, as well as the Alberta countryside.
I'm not sure why you think that there was nowhere to go inside the PBY for the blister gunners but the interior of the plane was pretty open. Here is a naked guy chilling in his gunners spot after rescuing a downed pilot. It is clearly open.
Made this anorak too, from cotton for sub-freezing hikes. I did not grow very fond of the green pepper pattern(s) - the instructions are not that clear and all in all, yes, it was a lot of work:
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/48158744/in/album/1222160
Happy sewing!
Best tutorial: Ray Jardine's Tarp book. Or get one of his tarp kits. Come with textbook quality instructions. I do all my tarp projects "Ray Jardine"-style. He's got a few very good design features on his tarps (ridge-pull, guy-outs, inner tent fixation). I like the KISS aproach. No fancy hardware. Just fabric and strings. For his metal hooks, I substituted plastic hooks. Did four tarps so far, workin on the fith...
my favorite one-person UL setup:
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/50963004/in/album/1306294
happy tarping!
here:
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/album/1313650
The blue pack is a small McKinley and I would not trust these reinforcements, but at least the skis would not chew up the pack.
The pink one is an old Mammut Badile 56 with trustworthy "hardware" that slips onto the compression strap. Strip of plywood to show how the skis are supposed to be attached.
My son once ruined a MLD Exodus by just A-framing the skis on it.
As for me, I did not find it necessary to ever strap skis on a backpack. We either would leave the skis back for a peak-bagging stint, or carry the skis on our shoulders for some time until we were able to use them - either with skins to climb, or skins off to ski down. So, imho, skis are only worth their enormous weight, if you can ski. If there are substantial no-skiing stretches, you are probably better off leaving the skis at home and take snow shoes, crampons or other traction devices that will suit the tasks encountered.
I am a rather skinny guy, (5'10", 170lbs) and always had and still have to do it with a "brains over brawn" approach...
happy skiing!
I do not use carbon fibre rods, or even better, tubing, for the risk of splintering through abuse. I go for aluminum tubing frames, even though carbon fibre is unparallelled in terms of strength per weight.
Another reason to use aluminum is I can bend it into a closed loop frame, which is my favorite design. Unparalleled in ease of construction and functionality.
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/album/1268100
Fixing mere rods to a pack is, imho, a sewing nightmare...
happy myog-ing!
I get an insulating effect equal to a two pound down quilt out of my half-pound inner tent, so don't unter-estimate the effect of a real inner tent vs a mesh-nest:
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/album/1306294
If you want to go into the topic, check out the hilleberg tents. Even if you do not consider getting one, study the specs and the descriptions about what conditions these tents are meant for. Gives you a good background for judging what type of shelter you need, and whether the xyz you are looking at might be up to the challenge.
Happy backpacking - in winter, it's not going to be ultralight though...
second that strongly. If the weather is nice, you can cowboy-camp. If the weather is not so nice, you will apprecite each and every square foot of sheltered area. You may want to keep your gear dry, too. And rain will splash a ways into your covered area, so you need considerably more coverage than the dry area you want.
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/50963004/in/album/1306294
happy tarping!
Make a 1:5 scale model using brown paper. There is no advanced trig to that, it's really very basic.
Make the tarp big enough, don't skimp on the size. You will appreciate each and every inch that separates you from the splashing and dripping the tarp is designed to protect you against.
Easyest way to begin: Get a Ray Jardine kit...
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/50963004/in/album/1306294
Happy tarping!
Flat felled seams add a lot of strength to the pack, so you can use lighter fabrics. I do ALL my myog seams this way - for me, MYOG is about doing it right, no matter how much work is involved. If you want a pack done like everyone else's, namely designed for ease of construction and fancy looks, just go to the stores and buy one...
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/album/1268100
this pack is made from tent silnylon (around 1oz/sqyd) and it has been my favorite day pack for several years now. Of course, black pack bottom, belt and straps are from a bit sturdier material.
Happy myog-ing!
Check out the tyvek first: The usual, fabric-like tyvek is not very waterproof, it's DWR at best. Put a scrap on damp ground and sit on it for 10 Minutes: You will get a wet butt.
If you want to use this stuff, consider putting a cheapo Walmart-Type cf mat on the ground and the tyvek-bottomed bivy on top of it. That's what I do all the time with my tyvek-bottomed inner tent:
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/50963004/in/album/1306294
This tarp/inner tent setup is below 20oz:
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/album/1306294
but it's the thinnest dyneema you can get, so you have to be careful with it. Pattern is a Ray Jardine Tarp pattern, the inner tent is a Ray Jardine Spitfire, but inner tent fabric instead of no-seeum netting. The whole setup is mainly intended to add warmth/keep off breeze. In rainy weather, I'd like something a bit bigger...
The (only) drawback of these thin fabrics is abrasion and puncture. You can avoid abrasion if you treat it with precaution. Puncture however can occur if a twig or a pinecone falls. Then you are in for a repair, which is not easy on SIL. I however think the weight save is worth it.
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/50963004/in/album/1306294
This is the lightest dyneema, and yes, it gets a hole every once in a while, but it's not a four-season, everyday use shelter
happy trails!
strongly second that. The Alps do not compare to the AT, so whats good for the Alps will be overkill for the AT (at the same season). The Alps are severe alpine environnment, and it requires a good deal of backup-clothing as the weather can change quickly and dramatically. And we do not only speak of uncomfortable weather, we also speak of icy and slippery trails. A family afternoon hike can turn into a life threatening expedition within minutes. I am living in Switzerland and hike our mountains often.
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/album/992748/@/page:4:9
anyway, happy hiking!
Wearing a pack, I do not wear a belt. I keep my pants up with a flimsy string going from right side belt loops over my left shoulder, about 2grs.
I carry almost all the weight on the hip belt, like so: Put the pack on with slightly loose shoulder straps, then fasten the hipbelt fairly tight just over the upper part of the hip, so it will not slip down during the hike. The hips will carry the bag. Then adjust shoulder straps to a comfortable position. The shoulder straps mostly prevent the pack from angling back, but they do not support substantial weight: If I stick my bottom out as if I would do dead-lifts in the gym, my shoulders are completely free.
Works on an elderly guy of 5'10, 170lbs, with a lower back problem, up to well over 50lbs-packs if at all required (2 days of water and food...)
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/47535654/in/album/1202584
white strap: "suspender", black strap: camera bag.
Happy trails!
second that. IMHO, messing with such packs is not worth the trouble. Make one from scratch. An 18l pack should never ever be uncomfortable. I would rather shoot for something like a 30l pack, but made from UL materials, if packweight is a concern. I really like my largeish MYOG daypack here:
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/album/1268100
happy sewing!
I practice bear-bagging with the PCT-method and call it "squirrel-bagging":
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/48784928/in/album/1237488
The food-bag is ul silnylon, and a bear-bagging line, small throw sack and mini-biner come to about 1oz. Not like a heavy, bear-proof sack or can.
happy trails!
My wife and I use a Ray Jardine two person split quilt and spoon up together. Makes 600 and 700grs of quilt per person and got us through the Sierras in summer with nights around freezing temp. Ray Jardine quilts do have a "draft stopper" sewn to them. They are kits, but the sewing involved is pretty basic.
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/39249244/in/album/810936
Consider your whole sleep system. If it is chilly, you might consider a real inner tent as opposed to a mere net tent to keep the draft out. Also, wearing more clothes and hats is to be considered.
I am not so fond of bottom pockets - I go for a sturdy bottom piece at the bottom of my packs and about 2"up, so I can put my pack down on sharp gravel, into snow or on any kind of ground I encounter without damaging it. I use 4 to 5 oz/sqyard ripstop for the purpose, even if I may make the rest of 1oz silnylon...
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/49827400//in/album/1268100
happy sewing!
I hate evazote. It is not recovering. I use 5mm foam from a supplier who does commercial packaging for high priced goods like cameras and the like, and the foam weight is around 45kg/m3. It is a pretty stiff foam which I find important so it will not collapse under the load (like evazote). I use the same material in 10mm thickness for hipbelts and carried up to 54lbs with a pack like this without any issue (except for 54lbs being a little heavy for a 170lbs guy, but that was two days worth of food and water).
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/47535654/in/album/1202584
I however doubled the strap with 3mm-3d-mesh. The stack was: 3d-mesh, foam, fabric, strap.
happy sewing!
Duuh, you must be giants to haul around such heavy stuff! 2lbs for a two person, 3season tent. If you consider myog, check for the Ray Jardine kits...
http://m.ipernity.com/#/doc/charly13/50679180
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/49112268/in/album/1239318
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/39249244/in/album/810936
Happy trails and sleep well!
I found the curvature being of no use - attachement height and angle in relation to your torso is the key for myself. Did about a dozen of packs so far, the one with very commonly lightly curved straps took me through the L2H in 2018. But the attachement point and angles on my back were just right, that's the key.
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/47535654/in/album/1202584
Yeah they do we still have one in the town where I live.
Obviously they aren't still in use and are more for historical value.
I do MYG packs and for me, the point is to use a sufficiently stiff foam in the straps. Current setup, "proofed" on the L2H 2018 Death Valley to Whitney is a strap like this:
3mm-3d-mesh, then 5mm CF with a density of 45kg/m3 (pretty tough foam used for padding camera cases and the like, way tougher than CF camping mats), then backpack fabric and the strap on top of it all. Very lightweight and very comfortable. The strap is 70mm (almost 3") wide on the shoulders.
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/47535654/in/album/1202584
I am a pretty wiry 150lbs guy with a lower back problem, so the key for me is having a good hipbelt to take load off the shoulders and transfer it directly to the pelvic bone. Frame in the pack was a 7.5mm aluminum tubing (flimsy!), and maximum weight carried (2 days worth of water and food) was 55lbs without any discomfort (other than hauling a heavy pack that is...)
Happy backpacking!
Use an inner tent instead of a mere net-tent, or cover the net of a standard tent with some dwr lightweight nylon fabric.
For me, using an inner tent instead of a net tent works like a full down gown, for about 1/4 of the weight:
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/49112268/in/album/1239318
Instead of making the Ray Jardine "Spitfire" from no-seeum mesh, I used some UL inner tent fabric and only the front door is mesh. Nice and warm - a lot warmer than a mere net tent.
Mostly true, but I use alcos all season. I am a big alco-fan, but when hiking, I do no fancy cooking, just boil water for my freezer-bag style meals, or an occasional fondue. However, an alco is not just a stove. You have to make the whole system work right. Baseplate with heat reflector, windshield/pot stand, stove with the proper (low!) heat-output, pan, lid. Works year round, even in light breeze, but who wants to eat in a breezy spot? If you are comfortable, a proper alco-set will also.
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/49582508/in/album/1258802
Get a Ray Jardine Kit - it comes with textbook quality instructions. I made two of his backpacks and then started modifying them and designing my own packs.
This was the latest and most used one I finally designed (Badwater Basin to Mt. Whitney, Fall 2018)
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/49824532/in/album/1202584
I am still a paper and pencil man for tent designs, so I know exactly what I am doing and if it does not turn out, its purely my own fault. Think of that, before you cut into expensive stuff like DCF...
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/49642704//in/album/1260816
For me, it does not make sense to buy a large and heavy pack to bury a bear can in it, so I started designing an UL packframe:
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/49934794//in/album/1266126
work in progress though...
For navigation, printed topo maps. Works, as long as you can keep your eyes open. Phone as a luxury gadget. GPS on phones not really reliable. InReach mini for emergency and getting a more reliable GPS signal/location fix.
We already had our warehouse fire on ogden point in 1977, not explosive luckily but the fire dept was anticipating the ember ash to light up much of James Bay which luckily also did not happen.
Like these people, I remember going to the breakwater to be as close to it as allowed, which now seems like not a great idea.
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/290513/29053261
The flames of that were high enough that Port Angeles was in contact with Victoria to ask what was going on.
Also in 1997 there was a fire on board a Russian ship at the Esquimalt docks that was bad enough to evacuate much of the area and had the authorities very "concerned".
https://www.joc.com/maritime-news/fire-aboard-dry-docked-ship-forces-evacuation_19971028.html
The downtown library has a copy of "Nuclear accidents on military vessels in Canadian ports : site-specific analyses for Esquimalt/Victoria" by William Jackson Davis if you really want a study to keep you up nights.
The barge I found initally was This one but the dutch barges look interesting and fun to see what the were envisioning. For the transport boat I had was initially going to suggest a punt but an english narrowboat could be fun too though perhaps couldn't narratively fit in the smallest canals.
#/media/File:Cambridge_-_Punting_in_Cambridge_-_1690.jpg){kind=link}
Water is heavy, so it has to go close to the hip and close to the back. In a conventional pack, there is no chance of attaching water bladders or large bottles outside. This is why I am developing a packframe, where you can either put a bear can or a water barrel/bladder in the proper location without having the water bleed into your sleeping bag (happened - fortunately not to me, but to a friend who spent a chilly night that day) or heavy bladders/bottles bouncing around and tossing you off balance (especially when hiking in serious environment like the Sierras or the Alps)
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/49934794/in/album/1266126
Happy trails
Urs
For me, the thickness (in addition to width!) and roughness of the webbing has to work with the buckle. The slippery type of webbing is a real pita on trail.
For sleeping pads, I do not care for straps, I'd go with some bungee cord with hooks. A bear can on top of your pack also is a pita. That's why I am working on a UL packframe, but no definite results yet:
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/49934794/in/album/1266126
It works fine, but I am still trying to optimize it.
Cheers
Urs
Really, it's all about how much the fabric is. I've made full turn of the 16th c Venetian noblewoman gown for under $9 - all because I used an old silk curtain I bought from the thrift store. My favorite Renaissance jacket which is lower class noble wear, was under $10. The red wool was an old red blanket for $3.90 and the lining was a set of blue silk curtains I bought for about the same. The trim was maybe 25¢ a yard? None of the items for the coat were super expensive.
I've also made full Norse for under $20. (Ignore the mess in the background. At the time, I was rearranging the sewing room and it was a disaster.) The linen I used I bought off of ebay and the brooches I made using necklace pendants.
In other words, making a decent outfit for any class or any era doesn't have to set you back $$$; you just need to not be too picky about colors and be willing to look in somewhat unusual places for fabric. At the thrift store or online, curtains, blankets, and good old bedsheets are all excellent for large amounts of fabric that isn't hard to deconstruct to use. Plus, they often still have a label to tell you it's silk, linen, or wool.
You can also get sign up at various fabric stores online for their sales. I've gotten 100% cotton velvet for $7 a yard before - depending on the width of the fabric, you can absolutely make a decent Henrican Tudor gown out of that for 5 yards. An early Elizabethan, you can get away with 3 yards if it's 54" wide.
You just need to look for inexpensive fabrics. :-)
This is not going to be UL - carrying a large 2 person shelter for soloing out. Consider doing a Ray-Jardine tarp for solo travel. Mine weighs in at a little bit over a pound, together with an inner tent "Spitfire" and depending on the stake-set I take along.
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/49112268/in/album/1239318
UL is mostly about adapting / reducing gear to the bare necessity.
Well, two days of desert hiking makes 15liters of water for me, makes 33lbs. The rest was gear and food. So the overall weight goes down gradually. Sorry, no real pics of the pack build, but I wore it here http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/49824532/in/album/1202584 gives you an idea, what was in the pack. Green pack with the silver umbrella on the left. Two 10oz quilts and a tarp, inner tent and a neo-air x-lite shorty still in the pack - too warm to set it all up.
It is a simple top loader with a 3/8in aluminum tubing (exactly 7.5mm outer dia, 5.5mm inner dia tubing) inverted-U frame ending directly in the hipbelt.
Falls du das nicht selbst gesehen hast: Was ich hier gefunden habe, besagt, dass Borussia als Fahrradname 1895 von der Firma Richard Siebert registriert wurde, wenn ich das richtig lese. 40 Jahre drauf wäre dann mindestens Baujahr 1935, ist nur die Frage, wie lange die die Plakette verwendet haben, könnte aber mit 30er Jahren natürlich noch hinkommen und ich würde auch nicht unbedingt vermuten, dass die die nach dem Krieg bzw. nach 50 Jahren noch verwendet haben.
D.R.G.M. scheint der Bremsschuh zu sein aber bringt einen vermutlich nicht wirklich weiter.
Consider getting a Ray Jardine tarp kit in addition to it - not so much because of the material, but because of the textbook-quality instructions you get along with it. They which will teach you many nifty details about how to sew a tarp/tent and how to put a net / inner tent under the tarp. Also his "Trail Life" and "Tarp book" are worth reading for myog-reference.
As for sewing net tents, a double lap felled seam is plenty strong and does not need additional strengthening (and weight) added by grosgrain.
I am not a big fan of "hyper D...". Any groundsheet/footprint/tent floor material tends to be very heavy (I carry my stuff, so I want to keep it light). I consider the inner tent a piece of garment, so I won't set it in the mud. I look for a nice, dry campsite, put down a cheapo foam mat as groundsheet, and then the inner tent made with a floor from a 2oz/sqyard plane/tarp material from the garden department which is not fully waterproof, but good enough and pretty light. I also used the soft 1.5oz/sqyard tyvek for the purpose, which is really very, very comfortable (feels warm, not slippery, white, you can see bugs, ants and dirt), but not as durable as you may wish.
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/49112268/in/album/1239318
Don't care about the bag. Care about the whole sleep system. Groundsheet, mat(s), tent, clothing, bag, overquilt. A real inner tent as opposed to a net tent will add as much warmth as a full down layer - at a fraction of the weight, because it will keep the draft off you.
And don't think theory will do it. Start practicing in your backyard, so you can call any experiment a failure and return inside. Tarps in winter are special - if there is any wind, even a slight breeze, you will chill out. An inner under the tarp adds lots of warmth at little weight - my modified Ray Jardine inner tent ("spitfire" pattern) weighs 8oz and accounts for something like a 25 oz bag.
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/49112268/in/album/1239318
I design and build my own packs and I would never dream of putting a stretch mesh pocket at/under the bottom. I always make the bottoms from a 90 to 150grs PU coated, preferably dyneema reinforced fabric. I put loops in the seams to fix a CF mat or whatever under the bottom of the pack with a bungee cord like this:
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/47535654/in/album/1202584
Ah, ok, good point about ice falling off trees and damaging your tent!
Air pooling, yes. Cold air settling down in low / flat spots. Getting only a couple feet up can make several degrees of a difference. It can even take you above dew-point. If weather is supposed to stay overcast, you will not have the problem though.
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/39251872/in/album/810936
Like this. I was in it and I was damp. Next time, I looked for a shoulder some 10ft higher up and was dry and happy...
For the cf mat, I have some bungee cord at the bottom of my pack, as I frequently need the pad on stops too, when the ground is cold and damp.
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/47535654/in/album/1202584 not that it would have been cold and damp there, but it's the only pic someone took of my with my camera when I was wearing my standard overnight pack.
I combine a cheapo cf mat used as a groundsheet (typically 170 grs) with a neo-air x-lite shorty, typically 230grs, and end up at exactly the same weight as using a therma-rest Z Lite Sol Ultralight, with added comfort and added safety against puncturing the neo-air. As the cf is full length, I have enough cushioning/insulation for my lower legs. I am a 5'10 / 160lbs guy, so probably pretty average.
Experimented with hardware cloth stands too, but found them "dangerous", punching holes in gloves or fingers, especially in cold weather. Trying to file all the cut threads nice and round got half of the welding points to break... so, back to aluminum foil windscreen-potstand combo...
http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/48789704//in/album/1237488
Tried posting my pictures and I guess reddit doesn't like photos. Here is the pink woven trim and here is the blue. The person selling the trim isn't very descriptive - you get 6 rolls of the pink, 4 of the blue. Each roll is 36 yards and each bag has two rolls in it (which is where the 72 yards in the description comes into play). This ends up being 216 yards of the pink and 144 yards of the blue. Basically, you will never need trim again.
The trim is great for a more middle class look - I'm going to use some of the pink soon to pair with some green wool I bought and make another Dutch cloak. :-) The blue looks fabulous with some red linen I have so I'm thinking market day type dress? No matter what, I'll still have a ton leftover.
So...There is no such thing as reversible when it comes to garb. Costumes, yes; garb, no. The lining should normally be a lighter material than the "fashion" fabric side. This is assuming you are lining your garments at all - which isn't necessarily something you want to do.
For a Norse dress your really just need a simple a line tunic with an apron gown over it. Rather than super expensive Turtle brooches, you can take old round earrings and make them into decent brooches, easily.
Here's the image of the statue at the church in Turin It's a front lacing gown, not back lacing, but it shows how far and wide the style was worn.
They're called FFV's. They're very similar, except the front grill is distinctly different. https://forum.federalsoup.com/default.aspx?g=posts&t=60318#post700145