What are /r/myog's favorite Products & Services?

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Personally, I'd just put some ripstop fabric repair tape on it and see how long it lasts.

Be sure to cut circles of patches because square corners will lift and peel. Also put a patch inside and outside of each hole.

If the patches fail, you can always sew it later.

Edit: I have some patches of this tape on some of my gear and its amazingly durable. IIRC, the patch is fairly easy to remove without leaving a residue for up to two weeks, but even then the residue isn't bad like duct tape residue.

Good tip. A leather strop alone will stand the burr back up again, but won't repair any nicks or worn spots on the edge. The polishing compound with the kits should help.

Another option is a regular whetstone or India stone. India stone kits are really handy for other things, too, like sharpening/polishing a damaged hook tip if you break a needle.

With scissors: Never sharpen the flat side of the blade! Just sharpen the angled side.

(I work with Kevlar fabric and thread a lot, and it turns blades into butter knives. Gotta stay sharp!)

I put a 10L Dromedary inside my backpack. That weight combined with constantly bumpy roads was brutal. It's the first moments when everything is topped up that is the worst... the following days get easier and it starts to feel great until you reach the next water source. Here's what my route was: map

Thanks! Dyneema gridstop is my new favorite fabric. I'm fairly new to MYOG and have only previously worked with X-pac... it was very similar but less "stiff." Also more nerve-racking considering the cost.

Colored hook and locks were from amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CP9JR11/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079VNHS8C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My Sea-to-Summit pad had a slow leak through the valve that just wouldn't go away. Finally I got fed up with it and replaced the valve with one from this pillow on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FPVR459

It was on sale for 4 bucks when I bought it... it's currently $7 which is a bit pricey to cut up for a valve IMO.

I didn't take any installation pics but it was pretty easy. Initially I tried to carefully cut around the OEM valve but I messed up so I just cut that end of the pad off. Now it's 3 inches shorter but that's ok.

Then I cut a hole barely big enough to get the valve in, then contact cemented it onto the fabric. I added a bead of seam grip around the inside for insurance, and also around the outside to keep the edges of the flap from potentially lifting up. But I doubt the seam grip was necessary.

Then I re-sealed the edge with a household iron on it's max temp setting. So far it's held air for 5 or 6 hours.

Owned a pair of the xero's DIY huarache kit and I found them to be too heavy at 6.3 oz for the pair and after just recently seeing u/svenska101 sandals I was inspired to make my own.

I got some 1.2mm soling rubber off of amazon as sole and used weldwood contact cement on 3mm of Hobby Lobby's high density EVA foam from a previous project. Pretty happy with the weight at 3.4 oz /pair in men size 10.5 and the foam adds a lot of comfort.

The black on black on black doesn't really help with the visuals, it was all that I had on hand. Might see if I can get different colored soles and foam for style.

I reckon the raw material you're looking for is commonly called Kydex. Something like this might serve you well. You can dunk it in boiling water for about a minute; until it becomes soft and malleable, then you can mould it into the shape you want. For something as simple as a sheath for your snow saw you could just use a pair of oven mitts to hold it in place until the plastic cools enough to harden again, then cut it to shape. It's pretty durable stuff though, so you might need more than your regular-old-boring-old kitchen shears to cut it. Break the sharp edges with some sandpaper and you'll be good to go for many a column test!

i got this one from amazon: Singer Sewing 4432 Heavy Duty Extra-High Speed Sewing Machine.

it's worked good for me, from sewing heavy duty canvas to sewing tarps.

They're marketed as disposable, but you can find tyvek suits/coveralls on amazon for around $10. If you're careful with it, you could probably get multiple uses out of it, and just patch any rips with tyvek or tenacious tape.

https://www.amazon.com/DuPont-TY122S-Disposable-Elastic-Coverall/dp/B00VMU2SN4/

You could also look into the SOL bivvies, but I'm not sure which one wins for durability/weight.

For my leash I use this:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OVI9XE6

Connected to a climbing carabiner.

Its tiny and indestructible,. sometimes people think the dog isn't even on a leash.

On amazon there's a 200lb version that's almost half the thickness if you're looking for extra small.

Page 3 under "Menu Options" shows how to tell the low and "high" power channels apart.

Since you said elsewhere you don't want to be thrown in a Central American jail, you should probably check into what the local laws allow. If you can find a UHF repeater you can possibly/probably program it to the GMRS frequency you need (if that's legal). Here is one example, but the 5W power output is a bit low.

You could put the repeater in a Pelican case to keep it out of the weather, run that up a tree somewhere, and run a long cable down to a big battery pack at ground level. (Edit: Uh whoops, you'd only have to put the antenna up the tree)

Edit: When you get to this point though, it may be less expensive to invest in VHF handheld radios instead. Unfortunately there isn't really any way to know if it will work without buying the radios and trying them. Is there a radio shop anywhere near you that rents radios?

The down was about $70 for 500g from this Amazon seller. If you look in one of the pictures where I had the outer shell laid out there are some small grey pillows on the floor. Those pillows are how the down is shipped. They are ~200g of down each.

This was my first time using down, but I thought it was pretty good quality.

Not sure if this is exactly what you're looking for, but Reflectix is pretty close. I've used it to keep my pot hot and make it easier to hold after cooking, it's decent, but not thermos level insulation.

https://www.amazon.com/Reflectix-BP48010-48-Inch-10-Feet-Insulation/dp/B000BPAULS

If you ever order groceries online (like from Amazon Fresh or Prime Now), you can get this stuff for free from the bags they put your groceries in

Oh man... I have experimented with this... It's harder than it looks! I ended up just buying inflatable things that I could assemble into the shape I wanted.

Here is an instructables link for an inflatable loveseat... That guy cut out the valve from a cheap swimmy/floaty/thingy for little kids to wear on their upper arms...

I personally bought these from Amazon and they actually worked quite well since they inflate in two sections for each tube so you end up getting 4 valves...

Like I said, I ended up just buying a few more of those tubes (they are HUGE) and wrapping them into the shape I needed them to be with tape... It was RIDICULOUS looking (and all the folds made deflating it nearly impossible!) but it was enough to show me that my idea had promise.

>What are these clips called? I can't remember......

HK Style Sling Hooks

1" HK style hooks Sling clips black steel 5 pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRLJF6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_AP14XWNXJQDNRAYNJ76E

One idea for the LEDs is to use a LED bracelet, they are pretty cheap ($11 for 10 from here: https://www.amazon.com/MIDAFON-10Pcs-Bracelets-Favors-Supplies/dp/B07BVGWS6S) and are self contained so you don't need to worry about wiring. You could just add some velcro/elastic loops to hold it on and then you could swap out whatever color you want.

Here's one I bought. I cut out the key ring and don't need the sleeve it hides in. I would like it if the zipper went down the sides a little making the opening a little bigger. I usually keep ten bills folded and about 6 cards. If my improved zipper style worked I would buy one, if it was made out of dcf even better.

Right!

The insulation should be under the two layers of nylon, against the feed dogs. A Singer Even Feed foot (sold at Joann or on Amazon) will make it feed really easily.

SINGER | Even Feed / Walking Presser Foot - Fork, Perfect for Matching Stripes & Plaids, Quilting & Sewing with Pile Fabrics - Sewing Made Easy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G6TZRUM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_862NEb49J0DT0

That's overpriced. It looks like a Pfaff clone in the Singer 111/Consew 226/Consew 206 family of single-needle walking foots, and a brand-new Consew 206RB-5 with a servo motor is only $1500.

Pfaff is a good brand, but they're primarily sold in Europe these days. If you're in the US, parts may be a bit harder to find than for comparable Jukis or Consews, and more expensive, but not a huge deal. For some reason Pfaff likes those weird reverse knob/levers that you lift up to reverse, instead of a lever you push down like every other brand, but it's easy to get used to.

It looks like someone put a little effort into restoring it, probably spray-painted the head and handwheel (which will wear off quickly), and stuck it in a new table with a new bobbin winder and such. If you're buying it from a shop, it probably runs fine. What kind of motor does it have? If it's a clutch motor, subtract $150 from your offer price (and buy a positioning servo motor instead).

Pfaff also has weird bobbin cases, as seen in this video. It's not bad, but slightly more annoying IMO than what's on other machines. Also, it takes TINY bobbins... Look at the one in the video, and the one on the bobbin winder in your photo. Newer machines use a larger "M" style bobbin, which probably holds 2x the thread (think "nickel" vs. "quarter").

The machine is also missing the right slide plate locking spring, visible in the previous video.

One other thing to think about: I did a little searching on Amazon, and it doesn't seem to use the same universal feet that all comparable Jukis and Consews use (zipper feet, cording feet, etc.). They're available, but they seem a lot more expensive for Pfaff.

So yeah, it's probably fine, but not worth $1600 (more like $600-$900, depending on the motor and condition), and it has some quirks.

good to know and that's a steal, but for now i'm trying out an android app called Ampere that claims to show that.

i'm also leaning more towards something to measure the input voltage, as i may be adding batteries to the circuit at u/phineas1134's suggestion and don't want to feed it too much.

hmmm they only seem to be selling them in 2-packs right now for $40, but they often have them individually in-store.

Thanks. I'm planning on making a silnylon bathtub floor with some mosquito netting sides instead of using a ground sheet (though I may still take one for rough terrain). For now, I'm using a Tyvek ground sheet to sleep on. It's about 3ft x 9 ft and is super durable, though it would not be ideal in heavy rain.

For some reason my final sketch up for the tarp did not save properly, but I do have my first draft. The only difference is a slightly larger ridge line on the tarp (10' 6"). You'll also see the mock up for the bugnet/bathtub floor I'm planning next to the tarp model. Here is the link.

actually, you are carrying around a mug with the function of a windshield added.

I prefer a single-walled cookpot, with a good and functional windshield to boil my water. For efficiency, I usually boil only half the water I need for a specific beverage (cocoa, soup, sauces, coffee) and then thin it with cold water to drinking temperature to save fuel and weight.

If rehydration is the topic, I of course have to boil the whole amount of water.

Now for the windshield/cookpot combo:

http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/44306302/in/album/961636

I would not go below 1liter capacity on my cookpot, even if I only boil a third of that. A larger pot absorbs the heat from my little alcos better than a mere mug, and when you want to melt snow for your water, even 1 liter is skimpy...

imho you are absolutely right. I would never indulge into the work doing a backpack compromised by a weak point like this. I do top loader, rolltop or drawstring. One or the other small zippered inside pocket for cash/card and/or documents, but that's it then.

http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/47535654/in/album/1202584

happy sewing!

http://www.ipernity.com/doc/charly13/album/1268100

I put an aluminum tubing loop in a backpocket. Works far better than foam. If foam is sturdy enough, it is heavy, if not, it breaks or does not transfer the weight.

It is possible to iron these fabrics on the lowest setting of most irons, but there's not really any point for sewing a rolled hem. A few options:

1. Roll and pin the length of the hem, removing pins as you sew.
2. Clip the length of the hem, removing clips as you sew.
3. My preferred technique - clip or pin the first few inches, get some stitches in, then just roll the fabric with fingers behind the foot as it feeds through. When you're hemming a UQ protector or hammock you're not looking for 1/32" perfection.

Regardless of method and since this is your first time working with an UL fabric, I recommend using a little tissue paper (like for putting in a gift bag) for getting the stitches started as sewing machines have a tendency to suck UL fabric through the base plate. Let the TP stick out the front an inch or two so you have something to pull on to get the stitches started. If you have a straight stitch plate (as opposed to zig zag plate) this is a good time to use it. You can simply rip the TP off after you're done sewing.

70D isn't as bad as 10D or 20D, but can be challenging the first time.

"Amazon.com: Elmer's Craftbond Multi-Purpose Spray Adhesive, 4 oz, White, 4 oz: Arts, Crafts & Sewing" https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Craftbond-4-Ounce-Adhesives-Spray/dp/B001BDLXSS

Not sure if im allowed to link, but you can also google it. I would first patch test to make sure it doesnt discolor anything, and i would do at least 3 thin coats of it. Its not a permanent solution, but it works in a pinch from my experience.

Also, i covered my entire pants interior, and i never checked the seams for leaks (didnt notice any either)...but if you have some left over fabric, i would sew a couple pieces together and test it out under a faucet or in the shower before putting it on the jacket.

Yeah, Id go for the heat sealable tpu nylon. You can cut it to size, and use either a aqauseal glue or a heat iron to form a permanent bond.

My packrafts are rated at 600lbs+ and that has to do with the valves not the tpu fabric. The fabric is puncture and tear resistant and if you went with a 410 denier or higher fabric which is what the floors of these boats are often made from it would last.

You could put eyelets into it with a reinforcement but I would custom cut it and heat seal it directly on the bike for a permanent or semi permanent install. If you need to add attachment points for tie downs, instead of perforating the fabric and adding eylets, I would heat seal or glue nylon webbing attachment points, again very much like what you see on a pack raft.

THIS. https://www.amazon.com/Clover-4712-Chaco-Liner-White/dp/B0016ZZOEK/ref=pd_bxgy_2/139-5356570-6633141?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0016ZZOEK&pd_rd_r=9d3e730b-6e19-4241-976c-2b0c60577e3a&pd_rd_w=FIYn3&pd_rd_wg=QWUq0&pf_rd_p=34d10534-152d-4098-abc1-4be2cec7dfd7&pf_rd_r=MG0BPPK6871FYT9GDZ35&psc=1&refRID=MG0BPPK6871FYT9GDZ35

If you use thicker thread, you won't have to sew as much!

Another option would be to use hollow rivets:

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Through-Grommets-Double-Sided-Circuit/dp/B07RLP6QM9/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=hollow+rivets&qid=1612985652&sr=8-4

https://www.amazon.com/Snap-Rivet-Setter-Leather-Installation/dp/B08MPHBBDL/ref=sr_1_11?dchild=1&keywords=hollow+rivets&qid=1612985652&sr=8-11

These are made to be sewn in. They aren’t super strong, but they are useful.

I’ve mainly seen magnets in MYOG.

Bluemoona 20 Sets - 13mm 1/2" Hidden Invisible Sew-In Magnetic Snap PVC Closure Purse Fastener https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011DZDQAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_m5jtnryNiQGC8

I got mine from Amazon. The needle position sensor for me is a must. I set it up to stop in the down position. This way if I lift the foot to turn the piece it doesn’t move. And I can bump the treadle back and the needle lifts so I can remove the piece I’m working on.

Mophorn Sewing Machine Servo Motor, 550W 110V 4500rpm Brushless Servo Motor with Needle Positioner Energy Saving

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VNQ5VJR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_IZGaGbJTEAWVE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

West Systems is great stuff. I highly recommend getting the metering pumps so you don't have to measure or pour the goop out of the jug by hand. For a $20 investment, it seriously cuts down on potential mess and issues with questionably measured mixtures.

They are selling at the same price here in the US with free shipping

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https://www.amazon.com/Juki-DDL-8100-Straight-Industrial-DDL-8700/dp/B07Q5JKQ7D/ref=asc_df_B07Q5JKQ7D/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=278540306368&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=11728085308813783958&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9028226&hvtargid=pla-680740211938&psc=1

I got my servo from Amazon. It looks like it’s currently out of stock though.

Do a search for “brushless servo with needle synchronizer” on Amazon and eBay.

You’ll find lots of them. Mine is a 550 watt but you can go bigger. 750 would be a great choice if you’re going to do really heavy materials.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VNQ5VJR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fabt1_BTfRFbXS39R83?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

As others said, buy a positioning servo motor. It really is that much better.

I have this one on a machine at home, and on about 6 machines at work. You may see it with different badges on it, it was originally a Consew product but the Chinese manufacturer sells it to whoever wants their name on it.

Grab a kitchen scale, perfect for this kind of stuff and its good to have a kitchen scale anyway.

Amazon has a cheapie that the reviews say is decent enough here

1/16 is lighter, and you can get away with the thinner cord b/c of how many nettles it uses.

Edit: bought mine on Amazon, 100ft for $9.

Check out Oware. I am having issues loading his site right now, but he just redid it recently. He sells Evazote cut for sleeping pads and prices are good. Also on Amazon, evazote mat. I have one of these. They used to be 20 bucks. It could be worth looking into.

I have a GSI ultralight drip filter and it was only 10 bucks and works great. Sorry I’m mobile or would post the link but easy to find on amazon.

Edit: here ya go GSI Outdoors Ultralight Java Drip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001LF3ICU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Oe8NBbA727VFY

To be honest, it’s not that great of a wool product (I think it’s an 80/20 blend). These can be found on Amazon. I used it because it was free and a good way to repurpose something I’d never use into something I’ll use regularly. If I was going to spend the money, Good 100% wool blankets can be found on Amazon for about $90 and up.

Ninja edit: Just search “army wool blanket” and there’ll be hundreds of results. The one I linked is $20.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0742MXF3F/ I've wanted to try this one from Amazon but not sure of quality. Price is good.

There is a guy making Melly like pants that sources it right from polartec I guess. Maybe give them a call?

You can buy thread specifically for outdoor gear. You will need to use a bigger needle, like a jeans needle. I like a teflon foot for fabric, you are right, you will want a walking foot when you make a quilt.

https://www.amazon.com/Selric-1500Yards-Available-Resistant-Upholstery/dp/B07CXQZHJR/ref=sr_1_56?dchild=1&keywords=thread+for+outdoor+fabric+uv&qid=1598569659&sr=8-56

Tenacious tape is not going to stick unless you use the special silicone patch, which should be sufficient on its own.

https://www.amazon.com/Tenacious-Silnylon-Patches-Silicone-Repair/dp/B08FFL4ZZ5

Multicam Camouflage Ripstop... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TNU5IB4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I bought this to repair uniforms when I was in the military. I’m not sure how shipping will work for you though.

Here's the link on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Fabric-Empire-Reflective-Sports-Safety/dp/B07N8H4TSP?pd_rd_w=bJAcc&pf_rd_p=b730f267-7c8e-4667-8b27-a69aeb2f7d64&pf_rd_r=YQ6HAEG3JPS0HMCHMH17&pd_rd_r=5a1cbe8f-a327-4cfb-9b7f-a3c6829d0b6b&pd_rd_wg=3dmeW&pd_...

Looks grey, but is super bright when light hits it. Probably could have just used it as trim.

look into something called boning, it is available at local craft stores like joanns fabric too because its primary use is for corsets. one benifit is it comes coiled up and keeps its shape, so if you sew it so the two pieces oppiosing each other it creates a really wide/round/structured opening amazon link

Thanks! I fired them off a support ticket yesterday. I'll post up their reply if I get one. I'm really hoping this works out, I think it could be a really interesting take on the "dark cloth" and be pretty lightweight.

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(Something like this)

https://www.amazon.ca/Professional-Focusing-Format-Camera-Wrapping/dp/B01M9B4993

https://smile.amazon.com/Homyl-Webbing-Buckle-Accessories-Lightweight/dp/B07CDCZ2MG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1538279608&sr=8-2&keywords=metal+g+hook

That is one I found, can't seem to locate ones that are for 20mm webbing but its all good.

There are several types of folding grills on Amazon. Here's one and another one.

Wet down can be a real pain in the butt. My shop fixes sleeping bags that rip in the wash and come in wet, and the wet down sticks to everything and is in some ways more annoying than regular down which flies around everywhere. The vacuum method with clothespins is going to be your best bet. You can also make a clean space by hanging up sheets or tarps to minimize down getting all over your house or shop, and those Tyvek painters suits can be a huge help for keeping it from sticking to your clothes.

I've used several ways to attach velcro. If you want it to stay on forever, sew it. If you're okay with it coming off at some point, which it may never, try lexel or barge cement.

> #5 Molded Plastic Zipper. Look for YKK

If you get pre-made lengths of zippers, I think they're expensive. If you look up zipper tape (basically DIY lengths of zipper) the cost is way more reasonable IMHO.

https://www.amazon.com/YKK-Molded-Plastic-Zipper-Chain/dp/B08XSGFDQG/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=YKK&qid=1671429570&sr=8-8

I picked up a bunch of these, they are complete belts with 1" cobra knockoff buckles, but at $10 each, i don't know how they do it. I actually needed these for a project with a bunch of webbing, and i was able to just modify these to my needs with a minimal amount of sewing. They are actually pretty well made.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B09Z7YD3HS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Like you, I wanted to be able to get through tougher fabrics. Everyone recommends older machines but I've always had trouble with them. I eventually settled on the https://www.amazon.com/Janome-HD1000-Heavy-Duty-Machine-Stitches/dp/B001I1IZ2K for it's non-computerized, mostly metal drivetrain. I spent 8 years absolutely beating on it with stacked layers of denim, xpac and other tight weave fabrics before it needed any sort of repair. I recommend it. It's above your price range by $100 but I thought I would contribute anyway since I think it is an ideal starter machine for bagmaking.

This: https://www.amazon.fr/gp/product/B079FYT74K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

spinnaker kite repair tape.

I actually used aluminum flue tape from 3M - I had it lying around from an unrelated project and it’s thicker than standard aluminum foil. Informal testing with tap to pay has been positive, with my old wallet I would have to remove the card I wanted to use (I’m assuming the machines had trouble with multiple cards being in close proximity).

I tape up the backside of the liner piece before I sew it into the final assembly. I do have the pattern documented, if there’s interest I would be happy to share the file.

3M High Temperature Flue Tape: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004Z4DS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Oh wow, that's brilliant. I had no idea such a thing existed, thanks. I'm using a Singer 44S so I'd imagine lots of things will work. I see this one from Singer. Not sure if 1/8" is what I want?

Might I recommend looking into a hemming presser foot? Obviously find one to fit your specific machine.

https://www.amazon.com/Hemming-Hemmer-Machine-Presser-Brother/dp/B07ZHVD1X6

https://www.amazon.com/Cotton-Webbing，Webbing-Handles-Upholstery-Webbing，78/dp/B07STYQ4K1/ref=asc_df_B07STYQ4K1/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=385180952328&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10535908796796681064&hvpone=&hvptwo=... I Googled “plain weave cotton webbing”.

I use the 2'x2' interlocking soft rubber flooring squares like these: https://www.amazon.com/Interlocking-Ultimate-Comfort-Padding-Stalwart/dp/B002YXCT4Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?crid=198K2KO4LSK6W&keywords=2x2+floor+mats+interlocking+3%2F8&qid=1668548284&sprefix=2x2+loor+mat%2Caps%2C90&sr=8-6 Works well, keeping blades sharp unlike using other 'harder' diy materials like Masonite or cheap Chinese cutting mats.

Your description makes perfect sense. and thanks for the recommendation on the sketch!

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Maybe my description wasn't clear. I have double sided tape that I can use to make an EPLX200 "tape" that I can use to bond to the exsisitng backpack to sew through. There won't be any DCF used. This is what I am using to bond EPLX to EPLX:

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073PWRNK3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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Will that change anything or will it still be too weak to hold a stitch? I prefer a easier solution. If it gets too tedious then I will just make a new backpack with my "upgrades" to certain parts of the backpack that I don't like. Black Friday is coming up and RipStop will probably have their sale again anyways.

I am using Schmetz Microtex 90/14 needles with Mara 70.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EWNW652/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That particular part of the backpack does have everything gone over twice. I actually do the initial straight stitch then lay it down and do 2 more adjacent rows of stitching. Thanks for the help!

The DCF tape needs a couple days to cure, so I haven't used it yet. But I'm very confident the carbon fiber poles will work great. They're very stiff, and should be stronger than the originals.

It takes what little sound is produced by a practice mute and amplifies it through headphones so it sounds like you're playing without a mute. Means I can play without disturbing people so much.

newer version

This one has gained a lot of popularity in the cottage sphere the last year or two. I bought one a few months ago, and know at least 6 other folks own it as well. It's a real game changer, though I do think there is a little bit of concern about how long it will last. But still, thing is incredible at that price point, automated cutters can cost many times this and often less capable. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N664712

I’m not sure what you mean by featherweight. Is that a model of machine? I have a 15-91.

The foot pedal I use is this one

https://www.amazon.com/NGOSEW-Control-Singer-Sewing-Machines/dp/B077R6NNYY

I have the carbon disc original pedal and could not adjust it to run slowly without heating up too much. I don’t have that problem with the electronic. Unfortunately it means I don’t get to use the knee bar. Installing the new foot pedal was super easy, just plug it into the electrical connection and go. No re-wiring.

I use a combination of these 3 drawer plastic organizers & place them on my storage shelves. Each drawer has its grouping of supplies like markers, cutters, bobbins...

3 drawer organizers

I use the larger ones with the casters to store misc materials not on rolls

For the handle, you could cut it in half then sew onto the remaining webbing. Or less intrusive, add a padded wrap around to it, with velcro or snaps. Like https://www.amazon.com/Orchidtent-Neoprene-Water-Resistant-Identifier-Suitcase/dp/B01ERASNCA/ Or one of those slip on hard model grips.

I just bought an organizer cart from Amazon and it has worked well holding all my components. Much better than the paper boxes I had everything in.

SimpleHouseware 12-Drawers

You sure it was copper? Copper is very soft and has no shape memory .. therefore not usually used as a spring

This what your looking for? https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Spring-Loaded-Glasses-Jewelry/dp/B07GB66GPW

suggest either a small section of non adhesive rug grip ...this sort of thing

https://www.amazon.com/Veken-Non-Slip-Gripper-Surface-Floors/dp/B07P17ZD84

You might be able to find a draw liner of the same kind of material in a smaller size.

or an 1/8 EVA pad from Gossamer Gear or Mountain Laurel hardware.

The latter is more useful but you don't need much of the former.

Having sewn webbing on my outside frame backpack by hand, here's my recommendations. I use a curved sailmaker's needle and heavy duty upholstery thread. However, you are getting this gear wet frequently, right? I use this thread for my outside furniture cushions. https://www.amazon.com/Mandala-Crafts-Leather-Upholstery-Heavy-Duty/dp/B00JU6OO84/ref=sxin\_15\_ac\_d\_mf\_br?ac\_md=5-4-TWFuZGFsYSBDcmFmdHM%3D-ac\_d\_mf\_br\_br&content-id=amzn1.sym.66ee1041-127b-4baf-8390-1a597387172e%3Aamzn1.sym.66ee1041-12...

You could use an accessory bar. Mount it so that is directly below the handlebar to brace the back of the harness or ahead of the handlebar to hold up the top.

Use an appropriately sized ranger band and something poking through it like a small snap.

I use this RoMech model and it’s great. I’ve been using it for personal projects for about a year now.

Things sure got more difficult after Brexit since a lot of industrial sewing shops are based in the UK, but there are a few servos on Amazon, for example. Most servo motors are pretty much the same so I wouldn't worry about finding a "decent" one.

I'd really recommend finding one with a needle position sensor, though. I can't seem to find one on Amazon :(

Amazon sells it in a ton of colors for about 25¢ a foot if you need more than plain black. I’ve used it and it’s pretty good quality.

https://www.amazon.com/PARACORD-PLANET-Inch-Shock-Cord/dp/B00HAMI4FE?th=1&psc=1

There are add-on walking foots that fit the 20u like this one but these are just a small help… but maybe can work for you. Anyway, nothing like a real even feed machine

Planning to make some blackout curtains for my van. I'm thinking of sewing in some 3M Dual Lock tape into the fabric and then sticking piece on the window. Thoughts??

I think the cheapest you could get with bug coverage would be any cheap tarp you can get and the something like the coghlans mosquito net.

This is the one: https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B07V6Z1SKQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

"Selbstklebendes Reparaturband"

https://www.amazon.com/Gaiam-Essentials-Fitness-Exercise-Easy-Cinch/dp/B07H9PDL2Y/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=33QI7IDIPWAIR&keywords=Gaiam+2%2F5&qid=1654714148&sprefix=gaiam+2%2F5%2Caps%2C113&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUX...

It’s the material commonly used for the really squishy exercise mats. Works really well for shoulder strap padding and hip belts. You do not want yoga mats - only the thick squishy exercise mats.

Trampoline fabric is super-strong, you could even jump up and down on it. You can buy it from Sailrite.

There's also outdoor furniture fabric, like for lawn chairs. It's widely available online in different colors and patterns. Like this.

I got a bushcraft bag that looks like this but it has leather to attach to the belt and folds up small till used.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08VJJB3Y6?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

thanks! I don't think I could claim it as my design, I just take ideas from the cottage companies and combine em into some new-ish pack. The straps attach to a daisy chain via "gatekeeper" clips. The hip belt attaches similar to Z-Packs Arc Air, a carbon bar slides into the belt and into the pack, but I also have the center curved stay sliding into the belt as well. And those horizontal lines are 3 carbon flat bars, these specifically: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KXJ2P96/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

that's pretty awesome. so I'm looking into the double sided tape you used and I'm curious did you specifically use that tape or did you just have it laying around? it seems hard to source upon me first searching.

I found this on ebay which is the exact same model# (expensive) but also found this on amazon which is a smaller tape(much cheaper) but maybe pretty similar? I don't know much about adhesives so I could be completely wrong. any tips would be appreciated! thanks

that's pretty awesome. so I'm looking into the double sided tape you used and I'm curious did you specifically use that tape or did you just have it laying around? it seems hard to source upon me first searching.

I found this on ebay which is the exact same model# (expensive) but also found this on amazon which is a smaller tape but maybe pretty similar? I don't know much about adhesives so I could be completely wrong. any tips would be appreciated! thanks

Ziqi, Mini Alcohol Backpacking Stove https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08YDJ9VS2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_VF1M7W7D89HD535P2JA6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

The stand it comes with is bulky and not very stable, especially for the pot I wanted to use. Pretty good price anyway, just for the stove. Works well. With this setup, 16 oz boils in about 5-6 mins. So quiet, it is kind of miraculous.

Those look pretty good! I got into splicing a few years back and it's been a great hobby. If you're planning to make more I'd recommend buying a leather awl and loop turner hooks to make your life easier. I used wire too when I started but it goes much faster with the awl and hooks. Another time saver is to just fold and crease the amsteel to mark the splice points rather than using tape or a marker.
I recently got these too and highly recommend them! Good luck!

I was curious about their pricing, and it's good for retail, at least for the Amann brand thread. Here's a chart for the links you posted:

For comparison, this pound of Tex 70 nylon on Amazon is more than double the cost of Wawak's Amann version.

Note: The photos that sellers use can be misleading. That Gutermann Tera cone on Wawak is only ONE OUNCE for $3.95, and the photo is not showing a one-ounce cone, more like a four-ounce. It's worth checking the description.

Thread cost might not matter if you're just buying small amounts of color-match for small projects, but if you buy 8- or 16-oz cones of say black or white as your "regular" thread, it can add up.

(Thread is sold by the pound on the commercial side, which takes some conversions to get from Tex and yardage to pound price, but most retail places list yardage, which is easy to figure out: (Price)/(yardage/1000). Tex number is grams per 1000 meters for weight conversions.)

You can buy 24" x 36" sheets of loop on Amazon. You can buy even wider loop here.

The max I'm seeing for hook is 6". Maybe swap the hook/loop on your project? In general, hook is used for the thing that sticks, and loop is used for what the thing sticks onto. Hook is a pain... harder to sew, rough to the touch, and it picks up all sorts of fuzz and junk that's hard to remove. Loop is soft and pleasant, and basically just a fuzzy fabric.

Try searching for "4 way plastic buckle" on Google images. Or plastic harness buckle, safety vest plastic buckle, etc. I'm not seeing exactly what you sketched, but I imagine you're looking for something like this. There are a lot of options.

Are you just talking about a grommet? Lots of different options in terms of punches or table top presses, or handheld plier presses.

I had a big roll of 25mm webbing, some D rings and some 15mm webbing just in my repairs and spares box. Not sure where it was bought but it’s pretty standard stuff. I did buy some 25mm buckles for it, these are those: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0744FG1ZZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PTJN2CJPV4EBRKXBSJ6H

With those bits and some stitching you get a couple of these.

How about this? US Energy Products (3MM Reflective Foam Insulation Shield, Heat Shield, Thermal Insulation Shield Radiant Barrier 24" x 10ft 20sqft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B083HQM2TQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_72SK4JDM395HDGEETK6D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I had not heard of these either, but they exist: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NwNh99l8X50

Looks like it would only work on a single-needle drop feed like an 8700 though, and attaches to the presser foot bar instead of the foot, with the needle bar driving it, same as the home-machine types. Here's one on Amazon. It seems like it just runs a button-hole pattern with variable stitch length, so you could probably hack a bartack out of it, but not as the regular pattern.

If you can order through Amazon, these are great quality. Ravenox Cyberian Cord Lock End | Cord Locks for Drawstrings, Rope | Award-Winning Cord Stopper and Cord Locks for Paracord, Luggage, Shoelaces, Clothing Use | Camping Accessories for Great Outdoors https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013RZ0BEE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ARGMY53EKDVW5SZ7HQPT?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

We use one of these...thin goose kneck led lights that sits in front of the machine and one of the small LED lights like your using behind rather than to the side. That gives us pretty even lighting right at the material with as minimal intrusion around the machine as possible.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0824LYDVF/ref=ppx\_yo\_dt\_b\_search\_asin\_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

I may be wrong but I asked them about it a while back and I think I remember it being stainless steel skewers off amazon.