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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/Home:
![[UL Listed] Miady Short Power Extension Cord Outlet Saver, 16AWG/13A, 3 Prong (4 Pack, Black, 8 Inch)](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41xv1Y8ZY2L._SL500_.jpg)
The most popular Services mentioned in /r/Home:
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Camelcamelcamel
NordVPN
The most popular reviews in /r/Home:
yes, it's a floor outlet
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-41652-QuickPort-Assembly-Inserts/dp/B000LEX408
the round cover should come out, but it could be stuck after years of being closed. use a wide flat blade. you might need to put a little penetrating oil around the edge...be careful not to soak too much.
Typically you put those on the wall where the doorknob makes contact-- it prevents it from punching a hole in the drywall. Is there another doorknob that contacts that door in that exact spot?
It's also possible that somebody used them to cover holes or damage? Are they in the same spot on every door?
either a caddy:
https://smile.amazon.com/mDesign-Plastic-Cutlery-Storage-Organizer/dp/B07KJHF5KN
or add a whole standing cabinet to your kitchen, if you have the room:
https://smile.amazon.com/MELLCOM-Kitchen-Cabinet%EF%BC%8CPantry-Cabinets-Cutlery/dp/B092DLM3LQ
(these aren't recommendations, just examples)
Baking soda will raise alkalinity and PH. If the PH is slightly on the lower side, (6.8/7.0), I would use that.
looks like a halogen light fixture. they take these types of tubes
https://www.amazon.com/Halogen-Dimmable-Floodlight-Security-Landscape/dp/B08MB38KMG
you'd have to remove the cover to see the size, probably by squeezing it.
that half circle part on top is either a motion or light sensor. So it might only come on at night (or cover it up)
Consider buying a small ionizer. Note that you will need to run it while you and pets are not home. It helps a lot. You will need to run it for a few hours for several days.
Edited to add a link. We have two similar to this that we have had to run in two of our rentals.
Enerzen Commercial Ozone Generator 6,000mg Industrial O3 Air Purifier Deodorizer Sterilizer (6,000mg - Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JAP7388/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_aLGDFbR8FMTME
So a doorbell is like 5V/12/Max 20V, its not a big load. All those other wires are from someone that ran a Cat5 or 12 core or something through to there. Splicing or joining to another wire shouldn't be a big problem.
Its easy to just splice; or if you want to take the challenge out of your life. Go to your hardware store and just buy a small choocolate block / connector block and connect through that, this is the most old-school way apart from a solder splice. Amazon link to the block so you can see it.
or better you could buy the 3M telephone wire connectors and just make your life easier. I have used these a lot on my doorbell connections to make my life easier. Get one sized for the wire. They require no tools and work without issue. Maybe just practice on one or two wires first since you don't have a lot of space to go wrong. They are quite hard to press in sometimes. 3M Connector i have used personally.
Careful with the wire if its powered on, it will shock you; but won't hurt too bad or kill you. Just a little zap. But you know, better safe then sorry
Is the air damp at all? If there's a lot of moisture in the air it can make existing household odors worse and lead to mold and other stuff growing. If it is, you could try some kind of moisture absorber in the worst affected areas, the brand I linked is what I use in my room that gets really damp without a lot of circulation, I usually use a scented kind so it works to get rid of existing odors and prevent new ones if the problem is too much moisture. If it's mainly centered around the baby's room and you think this could be the issue, you might just need a diaper pail that's really good at keeping in odors and/or use a deodorizer in it. In general I find using scented/odor-reducing garbage bags can make a big difference too.
If it's the drain or sink, in my experience just plain old baking soda works pretty well to absorb drain odors if it's not too bad and you let it set in for a while before rinsing and using a general purpose cleaner. I also heard people say good things about stuff like SaniSticks if it is indeed coming from the sink, but I've never really used them. Also, if you happen to have a garbage disposal that could potentially need to be cleaned, but I don't have one so unfortunately can't be much help there, I just know it's a pretty common household problem for people who have them.
If it's kind of even around the whole house, then like you said it could be the AC, maybe something in the ducts or something, or just general odor build-up in the house. You could try one of those scented, air-purifying furnace filters but that might only really mask it and could also be irritating to people sensitive to artificial scents.
Barring all that, as a last resort you could look into a room air purifier, an ozone deodorizer, etc. but usually that's not necessary and ideally you'd want to also find the source of the odor.
As others noted you can consider keeping it. My lawn is a mix of at least 10 different plants. Some of them are kind of cute and show some diversity. But some of them are invasive and ugly and eventually lead to dead spots.
I am not a fan of spraying herbicides in general, but I had one section in my side yard that had weeds coming through the fence from the neighbors and they grew fast and tall and crowded everything out. I had just removed some trees and was trying to establish some grass. I got some of this stuff and I have to say, the shit works. In my case one application knocked out a variety of different weeds and didn't affect the grass and gave it a chance to get established, and I've never had to reapply it.
awesome! I'm sure they'll appreciate it
if that outlet isn't ground fault protected, consider getting a gfci adapter. don't want any weird moisture issues to tingle the kitties.
https://www.amazon.com/Lighted-Outdoor-Extension-Electrical-Outlets/dp/B073ZMLZGW
too late to ask now, but check your outlets, gfcis especially
https://www.amazon.com/Sperry-Instruments-GFI6302-Receptacle-Professional/dp/B000RUL2UU
all the inspectors do that, and if they find a broke outlet they'll write it as "Have a licensed electrician repair". So you pay $200 for a 2 dollar outlet swap.
they'll take the electrical panel cover off and look for double taps.
Same for drains...'slow' bathtub drain? it'll be "have a licensed plumber rod the drain" so $200 instead of some draino or using a $20 snake
oh...do you have a stove? check that it's anti-tip bracket was installed (pull on the top a little)
if the buyer phrases stuff like 'replace dishwasher', get your lawyer to say repair or replace, etc
Expensive but works or many old locks.
Skeleton Key Set Reproduction for Antique Furniture - Cabinet Doors, Grandfather Clocks, Dresser Drawers | KY-10S https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078F11J73/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UpDhFbP35NE8Z
I've never seen this type of stuff in the normal big box stores. This is a "prosumer" type product.
Amazon has a two-pack. https://www.amazon.com/Maxforce-Cockroach-Stronger-Cucarachas-PACKAGED/dp/B0042JCIDC
This is the closest I found on Amazon. Hope this helps. Versailles Home Fashions PP014-25 Bamboo Privacy Panel, 38" x 68", Driftwood https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016BI811O/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_omhqEbMHQ8053
It appears that you already have two heaters. The only thing else you might add is one of those propane fire pit tables so people can gather around the heat.
After that you'll want to consider enclosing the space to trap warm air and block out the wind. Some kind of canvas curtain surround and slide over roof covering would work. Make sure there's still a a bit of air flow to avoid carbon monoxide risks from the heaters.
This one looks like terrible quality, but you get the idea from the picture: https://www.amazon.ca/Fcosie-Curtains-Waterproof-Pavilion-Blocking/dp/B09YTSZHPK?th=1
Thanks, we did it when the wife and I bought our first house 2 years ago. It was in rough shape prior so we rolled the dice with this product
Ekopel 2K Bathtub Refinishing Kit... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MCW3KJB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It's held up very well so far, the only thing I've noticed is it's not as white as day one but that could be from some the cleaners we used.
It actually is supposed to be one. It's an "EZ-FLO 15215 Chrome Recessed Soap and Grab Bar, Silver"
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ez-Flo-15215-Recessed-Soap-Holder/dp/B00065XOWA?th=1
But yeah not saying it looks safe to use as one, just that it's was sold to be used as one. The screws look too short, especially if they're going through tiles too.
Oddly is it just me or is the grab bar bit of it literally already falling off in the first product page photo of it?
Pillow covers are different to Pillowcases. Pillow covers adds a layer of protection, and are sometimes spill and drool proof. Pillowcases are just covers that match either the sheets, or shams that match the duvet and bed skirt. https://www.amazon.ca/SET-ZIPPERED-QUILTED-PILLOW-COVERS/dp/B0022TRWRG/ref=asc_df_B0022TRWRG/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=459413792286&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17578999386110093875&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&...
Try stained glass window film I just do not like the idea of anyone seeing any shape of anything in my shower window ever.
If you're confident to do it yourself, yes use the yellow gas rated teflon tape, screw it on, and turn it to the side. Soapy water squirt to look for any leaks.
Extra points, grab a gas sniffer to ensure 100% no leaks.
Never thought of this. This is a good idea especially if you don’t want to run to the hardware store for the 3rd time that day during a project. I wonder if a zinc anchor would work better. Something like this:
You can get rubber one-way valves that allow water to run down, but prevent sewer gas from coming up... specifically for situations in which a drain is rarely used.
https://www.amazon.com/Oatey-43747-General-Purpose-Floor/dp/B091RSVBRN/
Don't install "can lights", you should install these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09XJSDSLY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Also, since they have adjustable light temperature, you can see which warmth you want. Typically the 5000k would be for a kitchen/work area and maybe 3500k for a living room.
I love microfiber mops, they are flat like swiffer but a quick rinse in the sink and ready to mop again! I use them dry to sweep, then wet to mop.
I use a Libman Wonder Mop. Put my cleaner in a 3 gallon bucket. Pour it out and add clean water/ cleaner when it gets gross. I rinse out the mop in clean water, and hang it so it can dry out when finished.
I posted the Amazon link but they are cheaper at WM.
I own these and reccommend them to everyone - everyone has raved about them who's purchased them as well.
What is the floor there? You could install something like this https://www.amazon.com/Adonai-Hardware-7-50-Iron-Foot/dp/B01HJTE4CY/ref=asc_df_B01HJTE4CY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=216508137554&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6045031879012054792&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m...
I found this bulb, I think it shows the same part numbers but it’s possibly a better seller that has the correct part.
You could get a three gang wall plate with a blank. The only issue is that you wouldn't have anything for the screws over the blank to screw into. If that bothers you, just put a couple of holes in the drywall behind those two holes and superglue a couple of screws in those positions.
https://smile.amazon.com/Smooth-White-Gang-Combo-Plate/dp/B07HLS3Y2R/ref=sr\_1\_7
I don’t know about the wall part, but for the front of the stairs you could put a baby gate in front of them. Not the ones that just lean up against stuff but these -https://www.amazon.com/BalanceFrom-Walk-Thru-Safety-Stairways-Auto-Close-Hold-Open/dp/B0846CC49J/ref=asc_df_B0846CC49J/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=417002882129&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8864593795327980211&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9015698&hvtargid=pla-887124514970&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=102402149188&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=417002882129&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8864593795327980211&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9015698&hvtargid=pla-887124514970
If you need go through DIY Route, which I don't suggest without proper inspection because some mold are health hazard.
- Fix the leak.
- Treat with mold killer. RMR makes good one.
- Use mold stain remover: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N3Y22K4/ref=emc_b_5_i
I recently helped my friend to get it fixed and above 3 worked well. If you need to take one step further if smell is concern ... do some research and use Ozone Generator.
Right angle driver bit for drill from hardware. It bends 90 n will drive screws or holes into narrow areas.
Not a plumber, but they make special reaming bits to you can remove pvc fittings. The come in different size diameters. Here's and example.
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If the quote is twenty or thirty times the cost of the tool and materials, I would give it a shot.
DIY replace w LED for nicer light and you never need to touch it again and you save $'s. Also consider motion light. Here is a 6" one $23 https://www.amazon.com/ASD-Adjustable-2700-5000K-Recessed-Lighting/dp/B097XSV9GF
The toilets that came with my house were the old mansfield bell inards. they work until they don't and then i couldn't get the rubber seal to go back in the correct place. I did a total replacement to a flapper which meant taking all the old stuff apart/out and then putting the new stuff in.
It took a little doing since those screws inside the tank that connect it to the bowl had rusted/corroded to the point where i couldn't turn them out (had to cut them), but other than that, it wasn't bad. just get some pliers and watch some vids. if i can do it, anyone can.
This is the one i got:
https://www.amazon.com/Fluidmaster-400AKRP10-400AKR-Universal-Install/dp/B0002YVK44
just make sure you turn off the water to the toilet first...and if that doesn't work, just turn off the water to the house first. (make sure you have some faucets open when you turn it back on)
then don't buy those again!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083LC7N9P/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
this is the one i purchased, not quite 100 for 7.50 but they work well and are still much cheaper than name brand.
It really really looks like it belongs on this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0746XTSHC/
We have two of those racks, they are wonderful - the suction cup part unscrews and holds the wire of the caddy. On smooth tile, ours has held sturdy for 4 years with no slipping, even with heavy shampoo bottles in the caddy.
Why yours appears to be suctioned on to the top/side of the tub, I don't know - but try unscrewing it and see if the suction releases?
Stainless steel reinforcement plate. Will also add additional security.
Something like this. They have multi colours.
I did notice the shutters the first go thru but was so captivated by the trim and diverters i forgot to mention them! They’re kinda subtle and subdued until you zoom in and it’s like ah-ha!
Rain rain go way, genius and sturdy AF. not sure your cost on those but I bet you could list them for $119 all day and move units.
I really think you’ve got a lucrative side hustle opportunity here. If your job is cool with just covering material costs and it doesn’t conflict with their core business, why not?
I recently purchased a custom address plaque from an outfit called ROCC and was impressed with the quality and aesthetic for $28 but what you’re doing is on another level. It’s beyond metal fabrication, it’s art as architectural details.
Bravo.
You can order for the knob a replacement just look for "radiator thermostat" they usually look like this but there are also digital or smart once the 3rd pic is for closing if you replace the whole radiator so the water doesn't go out
The thermostat pushes the small pin (in the first pic) in to close the "faucet" when the temperatur in the room is high enough sometimes if it won't shut of (and constantly heat up ) You can screw the knob of (like it is now) and push the pin in if it sticks a bit but rarely happens
Not sure what the diameter of the pipe is and it look like the lever goes down. So something like a long shackle lock on the bottom might prevent anyone from using the lever:
My other thought if you're hand is to build a box around it with a door and lock that door.
If you just want a vacuum attachment, there are other options.
Also, one thing I found was that I had l had lint buildup in the exhaust duct in just one place - the 90 degree bend from the floor up to the external vent. Rather then tear everything apart once a year (especially since I use smooth ducting instead of the crappy accordion stuff) I installed an in-line lint trap right before that bend. Initially, I left the lint screen in, but found that it was getting full pretty often since more lint makes it past the dryer screen than you would think. So, rather than clean two lint traps all the time, I just removed the screen from the in-line trap. But, now, I can simply open the in-line lint trap once a year, reach in and remove any build-up inside the 90 degree bend in the duct.
There are 2 ways to fix this ,
1 replace the laminate if the color is still available but this option is expensive .
2 cut out a hole and install a built in cutting board with the landlords permission . I have done this with several rentals because of hot pots and pans.
I build laminate countertops for a living.
https://www.amazon.com/Vance-Surface-Saver-1S41620SS-Stainless/dp/B01K5I5R3Q
not entirely sure it will help, but my sink was dealing with the same thing and i used This. pearly white again. its held its own for a few weeks now but i'm imagining some reapplication as theres more than half a bottle left.
Tamper-proof torx.
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If you're terribly keen on trying to poke into things that ostensibly contain "no user-serviceable parts inside", I would recommend that you pick up a kit like this one: https://www.amazon.ca/Hi-Spec-Tamper-Proof-Computers-Electronic-Appliances/dp/B074XTC8PX/
For sure not termites. These are almost certainly carpenter ants by what I can see in the video. They can do more damage than termites so don't waste time or go cheap with ant bait. Hire an exterminator asap or DIY with bifin-it
This is a 100% solvable problem if you get on it. Also like someone else said they do like wet wood so check for leaky windows etc.
Looks like it might be a 4" box. Are those 4 wire phone wires? If you don't care about the wires cut out and put in a piece of sheetrock and plaster over the low voltage wires. Otherwise you can get a variety of box covers at any hardware store. Measure the distance between the 2 screw holes and also get the proper size screws that are usually standard.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0797W1YL2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
With LEDs, the higher the number when it comes to color temperature, the "whiter" the light. ie - 5000 almost has florescent feel whereas 3000 is much warmer like an incandescent bulb
My door has weather stripping on the outside that creates a pretty nice seal while leaving some play. Is that on the outside of the door? Something like : https://www.amazon.com/Randall-Manufacturing-7-Feet-Garage-Bright/dp/B085TCF611/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=garage+door+top+and+side+seal&qid=1663296507&sr=8-9
For anyone who isn't on a well and doesn't have diabetes 🙄 one of these works great to keep the bowl clean for months at a time. Putting chlorine tabs in your tank will eat up the rubber seals in your flushing system. This thing only puts chlorine into the bowl itself when you flush.
I mean a single edge razor, with the adjective “straight” attached to razor blade, not the compound “straight razor.” A safety razor is closer but still specific to shaving. To point being that pushing the blade edge flat against the wall (using a scraper holder) may be more helpful than an angled xacto blade.
There are two common approaches to this, each of which will require gas fitting and usually a permit for gas work.
First, the most common, is that where the gas line penetrates the floor near the wall a gas mounting flange is installed (best practice to protect it) at floor level that secures the fixture to the floor and then immediately after the flange a 90 degree street elbow is installed to turn the supply parallel to the floor within a couple of inches of the floor. Then the gas ball valve and flex hose adapter are installed in that horizontal position, close to the floor, allowing most appliances to pass over. Alternatively there are right angle gas shutoff valves that can be installed on a flange mounted to the floor. Local plumbing and mechanical codes will dictate which of these if either is allowed.
The other method is a bit more complicated but can be required with some gas appliances that lack the clearance underneath. A recess is framed into the wall behind the appliance and the gas supply line is piped into that recess which holds the gas valve and connection for the flex hose behind the flush surface of the wall. There are factory made recessed boxes furnished with the correct valve available from supply houses. Like this
https://www.amazon.com/Sioux-Chief-696-1021GF-Box-Outlet/dp/B003QSPUEO
I replaced my sliding screen with a magnetic self sealing screen and I will never go back. Way better!
Invest in a caulk tooling kit. Cramer Caulk Tooling Kit
You will still need a little practice but the end result is good looking beads. The only con would be you might use a little more caulk as it builds up on the tools and you will need to wipe the tools.
Correct, here's an example - https://www.amazon.com/Reliance-Controls-Corporation-31406CRK-Generators/dp/B000BQN4T2 And yes, always have an electrician check this and all other circuits that are greater than standard 110v in a new house. This requires a generator that has the option of a 22v output, and a cable like the one shown (and there are different versions of these cables so you may need a custom one to match your generator and the box)
…. Wow. Just wow.
If you can’t bulldoze and start over, try this. You may want a mask while spraying it but it’s the best thing I’ve used so far. RMR-86 Instant Mold and Mildew remover.
RMR-86 Instant Mold and Mildew... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N3Y22K4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
The joys of homeownership and stumbling on the dumb shit the previous owners did.
In our basement, there are a few spots where the previous owners left a hole in the drywall for access to certain things. They've covered those holes with plastic spring covers like this.
An example is that there is a water shutoff valve for the external house on the front of my house and it's behind one of these.
Anyway, this is another one - I have never utilized this and I'm wondering if I can just repair the drywall and seal it up or if there's a reason to have easier access? I'm in a row house and this access point seems to be allowing bugs in and I'd like to stop it.
Chiming in to recommend this book. I went from knowing literally nothing about electricity to being able to confidently rewire an entire house in a couple months. Bonus is it has tons of useful info on all the systems in your home.
The standard advice with anything electrical is always to hire a professional. But if you're smart and careful, there really is a lot you can do yourself.
I use these. You can pick up at home depot/lowes as well, https://www.amazon.com/Stoppers-Magnetic-Stainless-Doorstop-Protector/dp/B09T9G17P6/ref=sr_1_5?crid=14A2REVOV6WE&keywords=magnetic+door+stop&qid=1660420329&sprefix=magnetic+door+stop%2Caps%2C105&sr=8-5
Get a commercial grade ozone generator and run it in the room for a few hours. Make sure there is no one who wants to live still in the house while it is happening and for a couple hours after it shuts off. I have this unit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JAP7388
Outlet splitter/adapter of various sorts. Your local big box should have dozens to choose (big, small, rotating, folding, etc) from and something will fit. This seems a good fit. I've got a whole bin of them I use for various odd fits like that.
about $11 works amazing!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IKK0OI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3JJT0KLL7SPAU&psc=1
Really not feeling it, out in a nice patio. To get rid of it get one of these that doesn't have a battery pack.
measure the width of door and order one of these thingys from amazon
make sure the thickness of door and width match your door
4100k is the bulb's color temperature (white vs yellow).
This looks like your bulb: https://www.amazon.com/Sylvania-21999-Straight-Fluorescent-Light/dp/B000TZR2T8
Use one of the ones where bleach is only added to the bowl every flush. This prevents premature wear on the rubber components inside the tank (because there's no bleach in the tank) but still gets bleach in the bowl. Because of having these, I haven't had a ring in my toilet for years and I haven't had to worry about a tank gasket failing.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluidmaster-8300-Sparkle-Automatic-Cleaning/dp/B0002YOQXQ
That’s close enough. It comes in different shapes. As long as it is sturdier than window screen, you’re golden. Here’s another example. It’s galvanized so it won’t rust. https://www.amazon.com/Garden-Tailor-Hardware-Chicken-Galvanized/dp/B092RKH1M2
I used this with a pump sprayer https://www.amazon.com/AmazonCommercial-Multi-Purpose-Enzyme-Cleaner-1-Gallon/dp/B07XL3C6FR/ref=sr_1_51?keywords=cat+pee+enzyme+cleaner&qid=1658335564&sprefix=cat+pee+enzy%2Caps%2C302&sr=8-51
Don't be gentle with it.
>heavy duty screen
Thanks, I found this . Hope you meant the same.
Is there no way you can check your energy usage live without having to call the energy company each time? That would make it easy to figure out. I was gonna say just simply go to your breaker and switch them off one by one around that time and see which one causes the energy usage to drop, or just go around unplugging stuff until the energy usage drops, but you probably can't view your usage live. If the Ac isn't making a noise I bet you have a heater of some sort somewhere since nothing else should add much to your bill, maybe a hot water tank in the attic/basement?
Can buy stuff to figure this out though. Can get a clamp meter($40) which it just a multimeter/energy meter that clamps onto a wire and it'll tell you how much energy is going through it at the time, check everything at 1pm then check again at 2pm and if it's much higher at 2pm then thats the cause. Anyone can use these, especially with youtube. https://www.amazon.com/Uni-T-B4Q094-UT210E-Current-Capacitance/dp/B00O1Q2HOQ
Can also get something similar that clips onto the main cable in your breaker and it stays on 24/7. It then connects to your wifi and you can view your energy usage live on your phone, so turn something on and you'll see the reading on your phone go up. It also has graphs showing your history so you can also see exactly when your energy usage spikes. Emporia is one brand, just need the base version for like $80. Would say get an electrician to fit this though unfortunately, even though it'll only take 15 mins to fit.
Get paintable caulk and get something like this for a professional finish. https://www.amazon.com/Caulking-Caulk-Remover-Scraper-Silicone/dp/B08SMDHQ8H/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?crid=18QS546D45ZDP&keywords=caulk+remover+tool&qid=1657667119&sprefix=caulk+%2Caps%2C161&sr=8-5
Patch.
https://www.amazon.com/Drywall-Adhesive-Fiberglass-Aluminum-Plasterboard/dp/B08N69TT6D/
Your local hardware store will have some version of that also. Any bigger than 4" and i start to consider cutting out the drywall from stud to stud. Location matters a lot at that point. But for that, patch, get a can of spray on texture. Also when you go, take a piece of the broken wall in to the hardware store to get color matched paint. Biggest piece you have is best.
I just googled “table edge bump covers” and found a bunch of products from tapes to the link I sent you.
It could be an electronic air purifier. They’re used as a replacement for air filters and look something like this. Any dust, debris or bugs that pass through them will get zapped and make a pop. May need a cleaning if you do have this type of air filter, or you can replace the innards with an air filter.
Get those super long foldable gates like this. They are super handy to have on hand for other baby/toddler purposes. If you have a big party or family over you can just pop the infant in there with some toys so they don't get lost track of.
You’re roughing the wood to accept the new stain. Taking it down to raw is a much more labor intensive process. Test a small area if you need.
This for the deck stain
Small brush and mini roller for wood railings. Key is to keep a wet line. Don’t skimp on the stain.
This is what you have, right?
https://www.amazon.com/Pegboard-Wall-Control-Galvanized-Steel/dp/B079C25564/
Several options to avoid wallboard anchors altogether:
- Drill new mounting holes in the peg board where you need them to be. Might not work well if you need to move the hole only slightly, as the relief holes for the screw heads would merge together.
- Make a cleat out of hardwood with a relief on the wallboard side, and mount it to the studs. Hang the pegboard over the cleat using the channel at the top of the pegboard. Use the normal mounting holes in the bottom channel wherever they happen to align to the studs. Missing a screw or two at the bottom shouldn't matter as the cleat is holding the bulk of the weight.
- Where the mounting holes don't match the studs, use a washer head screw through one of the pegboard holes or slots. Make a wooden spacer with a hole in the center to use behind the pegboard so you can crank the screw down without bending the pegboard. Attach the spacer to the back of the board with double-sided tape to make mounting easier.
Option 2 may lose function of the top row of holes, depending how tall your cleat is.
Option 3 will lose a few pegboard holes, but is the easiest of all the options.
I had good results with this kit:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N2GRRK1/
The finish matched the rest of the stone so I couldn't see the repair unless I looked at just the right angle.
Get a sticky magnet and glue it to the door.
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The answer is bamboo sheets! You can get a great set for less than $75 on Amazon.
I have these sheets: Cosy House Collection Luxury Bamboo Sheets - 3 Piece Bedding Set - Bamboo Viscose Blend - Soft, Breathable, Deep Pocket - 1 Fitted Sheet, 1 Flat, 1 Pillow Case - Twin, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079RN1JTD/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_2H4965BEWK597J5RA3VY?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I bought these for my daughter, they are a bit more expensive but really soft Hotel Sheets Direct 100% Bamboo Sheets - Twin XL Size Sheet and Pillowcase Set - Cooling, 3-Piece Bedding Sets - Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0767543GL/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_MCS15BXSSPSRJQV9GSP2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here’s a big bit of advice. Don’t use the ones that come with that hardware. It’s for masonry. Either find a stud or use proper drywall anchors like these
ITW Brands 25310 50 pack 75lb Drywall Anchor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQYFW2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AFS2PJBHA7JGQVPB11RP
There’s a range of sizes and corresponding holding strength.
There’s also toggle bolts but they’re not for the faint hearted. I have to use them from time to time and I despise them but they’re great when you want to hang heavy stuff.
Though other people aren’t incorrect about not using a drill, if you’re gentile on the trigger you can use one of these bad boys
DEWALT Right Angle Drill Adapter DWARA050 HD Version in Retail Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FI6RGIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_NB437WXCSRDG0K85GZ4V
I know it’s pricey at $50 but there’s cheaper ones out there and you’ll use it a lot more than you think
You usually don't put the bit right into the chuck. Where is the bit holder? That would give you the extra distance.
Remove all solid then buy this to filter and UV the water. Guarantee she's gonna have crystal clear water.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B5MB2DV?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
I have one myself.
Would a studless TV wall mount be a good option here?
ECHOGEAR No Stud TV Drywall Mount - Slim Studless Design Holds TVs Up to 100lbs - Easy Install with No Drill Required https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TKCLL2N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_R45DE40GD96ES7C163WZ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
A few people have advised live traps. As noted by another poster in most states releasing squirrels that have been trapped is illegal. Additionally it doesn't really help much because they do come back unless you take them for a long trip. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K6JKVLS/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_KCGHM6XA7WSQQHGV1QXT Is what you need Peanut butter works great for bait
You could try a faucet mat to catch the drops. This one claims to be self draining but I’d bet it would depend on your sink arrangement