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u/flurdterguson You are correct, you can buy paper shredder oil and/or lubricating & sharpening sheets. However, I made this video because I'm sure most folks have a can of WD-40 on hand. Folks can save some time and money and still service their paper shredder with WD-40 since the WD-40 formula does contain lubricants.
If you prefer, you can buy the lubricating/ sharpening sheets on Amazon here:
Basically get any caulking with a significant amount of silicon. 100% silicon is the most stretchy and used for areas a lot of movement due to temperature variance as well as moisture (washrooms, kitchens). 100% silicone is not printable. What the other guy was suggesting was an intermediate like Big Stretch . This is still printable, but it has the silicon to shift with the movement of your window framing throughout the seasons.
Yes, its still safe. Mine did the same thing, where the wheeled carriage support for the round glass plate rotates. Take outside, mask tape any inner vent holes, scrub corrosion with wire brush or dremel tool if you have one. There is a specially made spray paint sold on Amazon that is food safe, and made for this. Spray several coats letting dry between coats of the affected area. No need to do the whole inside unless you want to. If so, scrub the other areas lightly to scuff them up for paint to adhere better. Let dry properly dry to the touch. REMOVE ALL MASKING TAPED AREAS. Use as normal. Never take one apart. Unless you have the right skill level. You can easily be electrocuted. At that point, purchase a replacement. Good luck 👍 Link to spray paint. (Do Not Use Regular Paint) : https://www.amazon.com/Products-98QBP0302-Microwave-Cavity-Paint/dp/B00IU6MNAG/ref=asc_df_B00IU6MNAG?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80676783691741&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&h...
Might want to start using some stool softener.
In all seriousness, you might consider this... haven't used it personally though
You can use a cheap wire toner, like https://www.amazon.com/Electrical-Generator-Continuity-Automotive-Telephone, but you have to deenergize the circuit, and know where the other end of the cable comes out at, and tie those two wires together. Put your signal generator on the other end and you can use the wand to trace the wire through the wall.
To do it on an energized circuit takes a more expensive kit like https://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-ET450-Energized-Non-Energized/dp/B09XG38XLP/
You're welcome! :-) Up in Canada this is the one I have used in 2 homes. Works great and very inexpensive. I also am able to clean the lint out by squeezing a spin brush past it with little difficulty.
https://www.amazon.ca/Blocker-Backdraft-Extractor-Draught-Shutter/dp/B084BP47PT
This is an example which I think is nice. The ones I have look more like this with the curve around the step!
If you are cheap like me, you can use any suction cup from say a dashcam mount or a soap tray suction cup - https://www.amazon.com/DecorRack-Toiletries-Container-Bathroom-Accessory/dp/B07QCCQHR8
Stuff you may already have at home.
If you can’t push and turn it. Try this. Be careful as others said it may be hot. https://www.amazon.com/Best-Music-Posters-wolfcraft-5499000/dp/B0027J282A/ref=asc_df_B0027J282A/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=416655650137&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=6693888866242142185&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&h...
I used one of these they work great. Just have to cut them to the right size and I added tape to seal it up. https://www.amazon.ca/Whirlpool-8171587RP-Dryer-Periscope-0-5-Inch/dp/B002R0DXN2/ref=asc_df_B002R0DXN2/
This particular one is discontinued. But there are plenty like it. Will fix the issue.
> Get an (electrical outlet tester)[https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-Tester-Klein-Tools-RT110/dp/B01AKX3AYE] and check all your outlets to ensure they are correctly wired. Recheck annually-ish to ensure no wiring is failing (bad connections can become loose or corroded over time). Test GFCI circuits occasionally.
If you're going to get an outlet tester, get one that tests GFI's as well, like the RT210, instead of the RT110 https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-Tester-Klein-Tools-RT210/dp/B01AKX8L0M/
Also, exercise all your circuit breakers once a year, and flush your water heater once a year.
It's not as clean as replacing a bulb, but you can get replacement led boards for ceiling lights - they usually wire right into the 120v, so you'll want to cut the breaker, splice the lines in with wire nuts, and might need to drill new holes in the plate to accept the new screw holes...
Something like this : https://www.amazon.com/Legental-Overall-Dimmable-Retrofit-Ceiling/dp/B09M8653FJ/
Condensation line from your AC. They will absolutely clog occasionally. As stated in a earlier comments, a shop vac will work, but in my opinion, one of these is best. You can also find them at most hardware stores.
This is a video of someone using it to clear an AC condensate drain. (The begging is him cutting pipe which you will not need to do. What you need is around the 20 second mark)
You got this!
this happens to ours all the time. As others have said, leaving the door open helps. We also periodicly remove the rubber seal and do a deep clean of it. It's a real pain to get off and back on, but this tool has made it so much easier
As others have mentioned use a fine automotive polish. I've used this Carfidant Scratch and Swirl Remover on our old and new stainless steel fridge and it was amazing. Buffed out some rather deep scratches. Go nice and easy on it.
I had the same problem. You need to get splash guards, something like this.
I would go with the door knob option if u want to lock your door when outside the room but there is a bunch of security devices which are better for when your in the room. https://www.amazon.com/HNHMT-Upgraded-Protection-Traveling-Apartment/dp/B098XLXV3V/ref=sr\_1\_4\_sspa?crid=I4PIXF3YA7H6&keywords=hotel+security+door+lock&qid=1667448343&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0Ljk0IiwicXNhIjoiNC40NCIsInFzcCI6IjQuMjIifQ%3D%3D&am...
You can get molly bolts. They are narrow unlike toggle bolts which require a larger hole. A kit is not that expensive and you can use it for other stuff: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B11P3BLZ?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
Then cut a closet clothes rod to size, maybe prime and paint it white. Hang curtain
You can buy extra long shower curtain rods: https://www.amazon.com/BRIOFOX-Tension-Curtain-Rust-Resistance-Doorways/dp/B07ZH15Y91
Also, you can have a plumber get you two chrome threaded floor flanges and a chrome pipe cut to length.
Wireless repeaters are cheap ($20) and plug into an outlet. Eazy-peazy.
>Zosi 80ft infrared/ motion detect
https://www.amazon.com/ZOSI-Wireless-Security-Compatible-Recroder/dp/B093PGQ1DP/
Might give that a try if you have amazon or if can find it where you purchased your original system. Helps compatibility if things are the same brand.
I had this same issue and this is what worked: Fill the hole with bondo. Hang a reflective disc or cd with holographic tape from fishing line in that area. Attach the disc to the line with a swivel you can pick up at a fishing store. This is the type of disc that works to scare them: https://www.amazon.com/Repellent-Deterrent-Scare-Reflective-Discs/dp/B08GWVXMDG
Since you just bought this house, I am assuming you have the key to this lock. You can buy the SmartKey tool (which includes keys too) from amazon or any big box store that sells Weiser for less than $20. The special key tool that come with new locks are just a simple bent metal pin thing and work just as well if you can find one of those but since you likely want new keys too... get the kit. You can also change any other locks in the house that are kwikset to use this key simplifying your key ring.
​
Its super easy to use. insert original key and turn partially, insert tool, remove original key and insert new one, remove tool and turn back. boom... rekeyed
Try a sculptable putty/epoxy like Milliput which is made for stuff like this. I've used it with good success on chipped ceramic dishes and a sink. You can get it in white but you'll probably need to tint (or paint over) and glaze to match the finish. But its super easy to apply and very solid when dry. And with some extra effort should be able to match it exactly. At worst, straight out of the tube it should look better than it does now.
i think drain flies. Bleaching drains just isnt enough, give them a good scrub with....believe it or not drain brushes. If u have a disposal you will want one of those brushes too. https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Brush%EF%BC%8CNylon-Cleaner-8-2-inch-Cleaning/dp/B0894K1CN4/ref=sr\_1\_2\_sspa?crid=2CJ2K3L0Q5XF4&keywords=drain+brushes&qid=1664934779&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjExIiwicXNhIjoiMy45MCIsInFzcCI6IjMuNzQifQ%3D%3D&...
This stuff is thin, so you can wrap it around the sides. Cut many small sheets and duct tape them on securely instead of trying to do one whole piece from top to bottom.
How about using the same penetrating hydrophobic sealer that is used on historic homes and buildings? It protects your masonry, lasts for years, is easily applied by a novice, and does not change the color of your exterior (well, it does a little, but not much. Most folks wouldn't notice)
Silane-siloxane. Available at most home improvement stores, under many different names:
https://www.amazon.com/Armor-Siloxane-Concrete-Masonry-Repellent/dp/B078XH3DS4/
get a rare earth magnet and use that to find a stud. I use this one and it works great for me with lathe and plaster https://www.amazon.com/CH-Hanson-03040-Magnetic-Finder/dp/B08L14GDWJ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=CH+Hanson&qid=1663999935&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0Ljg4IiwicXNhIjoiMy43MSIsInFzcCI6IjIuOTYifQ%3D%3D&sr=8-1
This is what I used in two sizes
Bon 15-434 26-Inch Magic Trowel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008JBQCYK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And this to sand along with bags for my shop vac to catch the fine dust.
Hyde Tools 09170 Dust-Free... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000M2WSHY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
pretty sure your stopper has a slow leak too which is why you hear the tank fill up now and then. Can test this by putting some coloring in the tank and seeing if it goes in the bowl. Whatever it is (its the stopper) the water is getting out of your tank faster than 2 drops a day. https://www.amazon.com/Flapper-Replacement-Aftermarket-Essential-Values/dp/B075M3LXMP/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=33792LX1TB1KB&keywords=toilet%2Bstopper%2Bflapper&qid=1663806581&sprefix=toilet%2Bstopper%2Caps%2C104&sr=8-1-spons&th=1
cheap and easy to replace.
Is the unit level and touching on all corners? This can happen if it’s out of balance and vibrating with contact on one corner. If you press on the unit and the noise stops it would be due to the vibrations. Anti-vibration pads might help https://www.amazon.com/Forestchill-Anti-Vibration-Isolation-Compressor-Conditioner/dp/B07RRW8GNY
I made something almost exactly like this but bigger to sift compost. It wasn't hard to make and it's worth it's weight in gold. It fits in a wheelbarrow or one of those black plastic cement mixing bins.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MZ9DM9R/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
same that are in our new home, had to replace one in the garage already.
Got the same thing, where the post broke at the concrete during a hurricane. My idea was the use a metal brace that can be screwed flat into the concrete, and has a sleeve going up, that can be attached to the fence post. Something similar to this
You can get screw/bolt extractor bits/kits.
You drill a hole in the broken bolt, and then insert the tapered extractor and start screwing it into the hole. As you screw it in and it gets purchase, it starts to screw the broken bolt out. If the thread proves to be stubborn once the bit is firmly in I find the hammer setting on a drill or impact wrench helps budge it.
An example of a screw extractor is this:
You should have a bladder tank or pressure in the water system to even out the pressure. Pressure will still go up and down, but it does so smoothly and slowly. Around here, bladder tanks are a vivid blue and hold 20-40 gallons. Smaller ones are about two feet long and about 18-20 inches in diameter. Larger ones are waist-high and about two feet in diameter (rough sizing). For a shallow well, the pump is often bolted to the top of the tank.
A couple of possibilities come to mind. The bladder or membrane in the tank may have failed; this will be invisible from the outside. The remedy is a new tank. As mentioned, the pressure switch may have failed. You can replace the switch (a small box often attached to the pump).
This link looks a lot like our tank.
https://www.amazon.com/Amtrol-WX-202-Well-Pressure-Tank/dp/B002WDODS8
use this to encapsulate the lead
https://www.amazon.com/INSL-X-Block-Encapsulating-Eggshell-Gallon/dp/B07NR8HF9D
then putty to smooth out
I have this one but shorter, without knowing your house I recommend the longer one incase you need to feed longer distance.
Replace them with a standard socket base and put in something like this. They are awesome and you can adjust the light to shine where you want. I have two in my garage and in a windowless storage room in my basement.
i assume that ledge drops off steeply and you do not want to go outside the fence. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/LeLeComeHome-Overgrown-Double-Edged-Serrated-Ditches/dp/B0B1ZMXXV8/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1U8LGKOFCX8FQ&keywords=scythe&qid=1660442176&sprefix=scythe%2Caps%2C95&sr=8-5 or any scythe, i think that will not get all the growth but most of it down, you will need loppers on the rest. Trees will want to grow back so be prepared to cut them down a few times til they get the message. scythes i think are meant for grass but a machete isnt long enough and likely not powerful enough on the larger things. When you have convinced the things not to grow there more, you will have to find something to put there which will not hurt people when it falls down hill....like wood mulch.
I assume you will want to leave the air conditioner in this hole all winter to store it.
i suggest for that big hole on top, you simply squeeze some styrofoam in, wont look too bad outside nor inside. Cut with serrated knife. it is ok if it is not all in one piece.
also just push those wings in and stuff that with styrofoam as well. Someone said to use ridged insulation board, this is ok too just buy something you will not want need to cover.
they sell sell foam weather stripping like this https://www.amazon.com/MAGZO-Weather-Stripping-Window-Conditioner/dp/B07MM1X1JT/ref=sr_1_6?crid=3MGAQPUVIZR6E&keywords=foam+insulation&qid=1660303832&sprefix=foam+insulation%2Caps%2C94&sr=8-6
in all kinds of different sizes and u can get at local hardware store. use that to seal any left over holes. buy it only slightly bigger than the gaps, u want it squeezed a bit to fill the gap but those air holes are necessary for insulation.
someone else said cardboard, i temporarily had one i put into a large window with several layers of cardboard and tape, worked great. Of course if it had rained too much while the cardboard was there it would have lost all integrity. None the less, if u want to use it now, cardboard and tap will do.
thieves know these are security risks....the entire opening, so remember that as you install
You'll definitely need smart thermostats (usual lineup of nest/ecobee/honeywell etc) for the AC, as those are probably low voltage systems.
For the baseboards, the "thermostats" are simply another form of switch. Baseboards are high voltage (line voltage, 110v in the us). You "could probably" replace them with smart switches and use temperature sensors in each room to control the on/off behavior. There is one smart thermostat - https://smile.amazon.com/Mysa-Thermostat-Electric-Baseboard-Heaters/dp/B075VBP42M?sa-no-redirect=1 but that's gonna cost you a lot at $139 a pop.
check /r/smarthome for better answers.
Came to say use toggle bolts as well. I worked at a hospital and had to remount countless items ripped out of walls and toggles can re-use an existing hole better than upsizing plastic anchors. As always though, studs are best when available. For 1/4" toggles usually you have to drill a 1/2" hole. They hold a lot of weight for not touching a stud. There's also zip toggles which are awesome. I've used both extensively and prefer zip toggles over the normal ones myself.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FMCHQ8W/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_i_Z5K7R62RYGB3W9ZB11QM_0
Wire shelves like this can also be installed using standards and brackets like these...
https://www.amazon.com/ClosetMaid-2800-ShelfTrack-12-Inch-Standard/dp/B00002N83Q
Screw the standards into several studs, they might not be compatible with your existing shelves but if you can get the right size brackets for them it will be a lot stronger.
Some water filters are a scam and can lock you into their set of filters. You can shop around with some other good names.
Here is a similar Culligan system: US-EZ-4 and it has these replacement filters for $32.50. Compare it to the size of your current filter to see if it is about the same so you could expect a similar lifespan.
Remember these water filters are all very similar on the inside. It is mostly activated carbon. Don't get trapped into believing any of them produce some special magic water.
You need a local water pump for the refrigerator line. There are many you can order. I included a link to the Editor's Pick on Amazon. Place the pump along the incoming water line to the fridge, preferably under the kitchen sink.
It's hard to tell what i'm looking at. I use this tool to get sprinkler heads out of the pvc fittings. From there you could cap it or put a new one on.
You said it was rusted so if its metal I guess your SOL as I havent used that tool on metal :(
My cat loves to give me pounces from this:
here is the lock I found on Amazon. obviously it's larger than 17mm, but should it still work? have never done this before. thanks
https://www.amazon.co.uk/HSeaMall-Security-Mailbox-Cabinet-Cupboard/dp/B075CXDJT8/
I'd recommend mastic tape, going to seal up much better than foil, and will allow some movement unlike foil tape. Amazon Link Only downside is the price, but it's good stuff, same I used in my house.
Near impossible to find a replacement for an Intertek 4005165. You might be able to swap out (retrofit) just that part with this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Silverlite-Overall-Dimmable-Retrofit-Ceiling/dp/B095S1SRX3
I've been using this and it's been good enough for all my needs. The built in bits have also been plenty for all my needs.
Hey OP, it looks like it’s one of these products linked below. The description says “Since this kit does not connect to your home’s existing wiring, there is no contact with live electrical circuits.” It is simply for cable management. If you have a voltmeter you can test to see if the cable is live, but I don’t think it will be. If it’s not, you can rip it out and patch the holes.
This is the answer! I've been fighting with peppervine for a while until I found triclopyr, killed most of it in a week. Just be careful where you spray it as it kills EVERYTHING.
This is the brand I use. (no affiliate link)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002HJ7Z32?psc=1&ref=ppx\_yo2ov\_dt\_b\_product\_details
I've got the 8500w openers. Super quiet. But I suggest having them installed professionally since they pull on the door spring shaft only on one side, things can get torqued, and the door may need to be adjusted to compensate.
In the meantime, try these:
https://www.amazon.com/LiftMaster-Vibration-Mounting-Isolator-41A3263/dp/B085RJYVSP
There's a tool that the water dept has for pulling them up. The lids just rest on a lip inside the casement. I would imagine a large screwdriver would work as well.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Jones-Stephens-Water-Meter-M07001/dp/B06XVZWFJB/
I used this product from Amazon:
Bio Clean: Eco Friendly Hard... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1JR581?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It’s like a goopy paste. You dump a little on a sponge and coat the surface you want cleaned. Let it sit a few minutes, then wipe it off and rinse it clean. I used a blue scotchbrite sponge and it worked better than anything I’ve tried before.
I found using a surface cleaner is the best way. Maybe use some deck cleaning detergent ahead of time too.
If it were mine I would toss those hinges because they are worn out , Glue those cracks back together , Bondo the left over holes and call around to find a cabinet shop that can bore Blum pattern hole and install Blum Variable Overlay Hinges .
If all you want to do is be able to use that old 220 Dryer Outlet as a normal 110 outlet, why not a 220 to 110 adapter plug?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081XXHZPJ?ref\_=cm\_sw\_r\_cp\_ud\_dp\_8QKR2ZK1MZA8BB97AM2W
Would this not be an option?
Nema 10-30P to 6-50R 1.5-Feet Heavy Duty 30 Amp(Dryer Male) Plug to 50 Amp (Welder) Socket Adapter Cable, Adapter Cord 30A Dryer 10-30P to Welder 6-50R 50A, Welding Adapter 6-50, 250V https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CXR7NPJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6MNH2SSRH5WG4RY5TWCG
You could just buy a converter.
That is an ungrounded NEMA L6-30P plug... it's a 30amp 220v outlet where 2 of the prongs are 110v each serving 15amp (joined to be 220 30amp) and the 3rd is the common/return. A converter just feeds 1 of the 2 110v 15 amp lines as a regular NEMA 5-15.
Ala this:
This is actually designed for the very situation OP has. It's advertised for a electric range/stove to gas range/stove. But that's basically what OP is doing... converting electric dryer to gas dryer.
Get an adapter. You have a 4 prong 220v outlet there. That means it has two legs of 110v, a neutral, and a ground. You just need something that splits out the 220v legs to 110v outlets, similar to https://www.amazon.com/AC-WORKS-220-Volt-120-Volt-Household/dp/B07WRSXKN2
try use a different material as caulk - polyurethane based materials do a pretty goos job. I used this one in the past, from Sika: https://www.amazon.com/Sikaflex-performance-polyurethane-self-leveling-horizontal/dp/B00NO70BKA/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=3F1KWMVCW2VNX&keywords=sika+pvc&qid=1653760209&sprefix=sika+pvc%2Caps%2C191&sr=8-3
Looks like your expansion joint filler has eroded away. Caulking will need to be periodically redone. Might be better of replacing the expansion joint with something like this https://www.amazon.com/25-SlabGasket-Expansion-Joint-Replacement/dp/B007L7SD1S/ref=sr_1_3
AIRPLUS 1,500 Sq. Ft 30 Pints Dehumidifier for Home and Basements with Drain Hose(AP1907) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08694X9QW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7T5KMRV77X9YJ303W58F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I have 2 of these. Works well in my garage and shed. It has the option to attach a drain hose which is how I'm using it.
AIRPLUS 1,500 Sq. Ft 30 Pints Dehumidifier for Home and Basements with Drain Hose(AP1907) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08694X9QW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7T5KMRV77X9YJ303W58F?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I use Natural Chemistry Clean and Perfect and a Magic Eraser on my fiberglass pool scum line. I get in the water, spray a few feet at a time, let it work for about 20-30 seconds then scrub. Should come right off. Plus the cleaner doesn't really mess with pool water chemistry that I've found.
Spend the $40 on a kit like this and you can feel confident about him doing this. It includes a non contact voltage detector so you always know if a wire is hot or not and it also includes an outlet tester to make sure the outlet is wired correctly. These tools are invaluable. The voltage detector can save you life. You don't actually touch the wire with it, you just get it close to the wire and it will beep and blink red if the wire is hot.
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super easy. have him turn off the breaker first. If it gives you more piece of mine, you can get something like this, that you just plug in to each outlet/socket after, and it shows you if its wired correctly:
https://www.amazon.com/Receptacle-Tester-Klein-Tools-RT110/dp/B01AKX3AYE/r
I’m betting you don’t have an o ring in the female side of the y splitter. Get just one of these babies and squish it down in to the female side then screw the y adapter back on and see if that slows or even stops
If this planter box has no concave corners, I'd dig away the edge of the dirt inside the planter box so it can come back together, replace any damaged or decayed wood components, and wrap a tight stainless or polypropylene strapping band around the perimeter of the planter to hold back the wood from separating outward, and finally, back fill the dirt.
The function of these straps is similar to the bands that run around wooden barrels. The force gets concentrated at the corners due to the shape, so you may need to reinforce these corners. The band won't do much to keep the straight sections from bowing out (simple matter of geometry), unless you put in some spacer blocks under the band to push the straight sections back inward.
There's materials and tools for tensioning and clamping bands for shipping large and heavy devices.
Below is a kit with a manual tool for stainless steel straps. There's also kits with polypropylene atraps, and powered tools that are much more expensive.
It's a bit tough to see how deep or pronounced those scratches are, but I've always had good luck using a product called Rejuvenate Floor Restorer. It seems to fill in and hide faint scratches really well.
We had something very similar. Water was splashing out of the tub edges. I bought a product similar to this and it stopped it from happening. Very cheap yet effective fix.
It’s called a set screw.
HanTof 340Pcs Metric M2.5/M3/M4/M5/M6/M8 304 Stainless Steel Allen Head Socket Hex Grub Screw,Set Screw Assortment Kit with 6 Hex Wrenches,Internal Hex Drive,Cup-Point https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CKFJ8GY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DABJC7SDHK0TS1GN39B5
Kind of depends on which one you’ll need based on the thread pattern but this set would likely have your size.
It's most likely the sewer vent roof penetration or the bathroom fan vent penetration that are leaking. As others have said, if you can get into the attic above this spot, you may be able to tell where the leak is coming from. Likely you will see discoloration on the plywood underlayment for your roof wherever the water is coming through. Once you have an idea of where the roof is leaking, you can use Through the Roof sealant to stop it. I've used it to stop a leak on my chimney penetration and my parents used it to seal some flashing on their roof that a roofer tried to fix three times. It's good stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/Sashco-Through-Sealant-Brush-Grade/dp/B00110A8D2/
It's most likely the sewer vent roof penetration or the bathroom fan vent penetration that are leaking. As others have said, if you can get into the attic above this spot, you may be able to tell where the leak is coming from. Likely you will see discoloration on the plywood underlayment for your roof wherever the water is coming through. Once you have an idea of where the roof is leaking, you can use Through the Roof sealant to stop it. I've used it to stop a leak on my chimney penetration and my parents used it to seal some flashing on their roof that a roofer tried to fix three times. It's good stuff.
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https://www.amazon.com/Sashco-Through-Sealant-Brush-Grade/dp/B00110A8D2/
I used these guys when I had a problem with some digging around my yard. Might not be the exact brand I have but this is the gist of it:
I’ve found the work pretty well. Haven’t had a problem with digging around my yard (save for my new puppy) since!
Easy fix, just install a shower head valve for now.
I would call a professional to have it injected. Find one of the smaller companies and it should cost you about $600 depending on where you live. Some companies will quote more but call around.
You want it injected with a slow expanding foam.
Or you can try to DIY it yourself with something like RadonSeal Concrete Foundation https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006OP30L6/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_HY6BEG4PC5G8F7NVFW1B
My suggestion is to save yourself the trouble and have a pro do it.
Cdmall Electronic Fan Speed Controller Variable Adjuster for Hydroponics Inline Duct Exhaust Ceiling Fans with 6' Long 120V 15A Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07T9BLJ7L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D4BC4DDC1HB0EV3QJDWR
You could get something like this. But it might just be cheaper to buy a new fan. I don’t believe this would damage your fan but I can’t know that for sure.
Wow heat? That wouldn’t have occurred to me. I suppose it’s possible. I guess one test would be, is when the light is turned out, does the sound gradually reappear? Also, you test this by getting a light bulb socket adapter, and screwing that into the bulb and a light bulb in a 6’ extension cord, and move the heat source away from fan, and see if there is any impact to the noise, with the draw of the light bulb still affecting the motors, but not the heat.
Awesome. Thanks so much. Already ordered this tester on Amazon so hopefully it’ll do the deed for the first step. Thank you!
These look very similar to yours but measure first and check the writing on the struts to verify lifting force(example: 100N)
Amazon: 2Pcs 100N Hydraulic Gas Struts
Youtube: How to replace the kitchen cabinet door support struts
You don’t always have to replace the whole spout. It depends on the diverter type and size. Just look under the spout and check the diverter type you have. I ordered the replacement below for my tub but it didn’t quite fit. Luckily the gasket was interchangeable with the current piece, so I just swapped them out. Also, make sure the hollow part of the gasket goes toward the plastic. You need a flush connection between the gasket and the spout.
Danco, Inc. 89205 Chrome Danco, Tub Spout Diverter Repair Kit, 0.08 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005X7J8GM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6KB220DZKFH7ZXTZYMQ3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Use this, it’s awesome, cheap and fixes most wood blemishes, use the product on the whole piece, choose the wood color, use super fine steel wool then a rag as directed.
HOWARD RF5016 RF3016 Restor-A-Finish, 16 oz, Mahogany https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C02BIW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_BP4X23YMX6Z8C89VGMRV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I think your only bet is a toggle bolt type of mechanical connection. I’ve used these and love them. Just make sure whatever your securing is wide enough to cover the bigger hole. If not. See if maybe caulking will.
TOGGLER SNAPTOGGLE BB Toggle Anchor with Bolts, Zinc-Plated Steel Channel, Made in US, 3/8" to 3-5/8" Grip Range, For 1/4"-20 UNC Fastener Size (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051IBDKW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_NHK5Y7M9NMYPT7WV6377
This is what I used to replace a hanging light in our remodel.
PARMIDA (1 Pack) 5/6” Dimmable LED Disk Light Flush Mount Recessed Retrofit Ceiling Lights, 15W (120W Replacement), 3000K, Energy Star & UL-Listed, Installs into Junction Box Or Recessed Can, 1050lm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAUM25G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_SNP8VVPTFAAAF77BGA5C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1