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The most popular Products mentioned in /r/IS300:
The most popular reviews in /r/IS300:
Does it do it immediately or after warming up? Mine had an issue where it ran fine at start but after about 5-10 minutes it would go into a limp mode (flooring the accelerator would do nothing). My issue was the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and TBLS (Throttle Body Level Sensor), now she's running like a champ!
You need the bracket to hold the speaker place if not it'll just fall. Here is what you need from Amazon. On my car I just have 6x9 subs back back..
This is the one I used for Toyota/Lexus Crankshaft Damper Pulley Holding Holder Harmonic Tool with 2PCS Crank Bolts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q1W36L7/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_CJT3GXZX41S4PGTHHEPH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Additionally to break it I just used a Walmart breaker bar and added the pipe from my jack for extra leverage. Used another breaker bar and I put on the tool and had it up against the frame of the car. Worked like a charm.
Looks pretty sweet. Paint looks nice and the spoiler is a semi-rare dealer option afaik.
If the base of your antenna isn't broken one of these works good: https://www.amazon.com/ICBEAMER-Universal-Vehicle-Antenna-Replacement/dp/B07J4Z144C
Longer ones get better reception if you listen to the radio a bunch. I just use a cheap bluetooth fm-transmitter in the armrest port.
I did a brake job on my honda and had some rear shimmy afterwards. I assumed I had a warped rotor (cheapo rotors) but I had actually gotten a rear brake pad lodged at a strange angle and it was wearing unevenly. Replaced the pad and took the time to grease the caliper pins.
You may need some pure silicone grease for caliper pins so they slide evenly: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24110-Ultra-Brake-Caliper/dp/B000HBNV6W
These are the Bulbs they swap between yellow and white. These are the Bulb Housing/Projector I replaced as well for more yellow.
I'm pretty certain they're the same length.
I have the 11 spoke Sport Design wheels and replaced my rusty crusty OEM mag lugs with a fresh set of black lugs.
Land Cruisers, Tundras, and Sequoias use deeper/different lugs but the same ones you can find on the IS300 is the same as a 4Runner, Rav4, or Corolla or the era
Hit the other side of the threads with PB blaster. Do it a few times a day - then you can try something like this - DEWILL Broken Bolt Remover, Stud Extractor Tool to Locks and Removes 1/4-Inch to 1/2-Inch Rounded Studs, Hexagonal Flat - Suitable for Rust, Painted, Damaged Waste Bolts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y1RG8C5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fab_xcPAFbK1P8WHT
For the others. Don’t use an impact - just use a breaker bar.
If you ever want 'magic eraser' just buy melamine pads. It's exactly the same thing for way, way less.
Example: 100 for $10 off brand
vs 9 for $7 for name brand
Yep, you can get them from many places, here's one of several Amazon links
Mode HVAC Air Door Actuator... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XXTSCV6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Try this. I replaced the servo that controlled the feet, or head AC/heater switch. works perfect. And way cheaper.
I got this one had it for about three months now and it’s been really good
There’s 2 different kinds there’s 9006 and H3, yes they’re year specific but I have an 04 and had both bulbs 9006 driver H3 passenger. If you have H3 I’ve been using these for 2 years no issues $12. I’ll do you a pic.
I have the ones from Oracle. They're ok....
Mine are LED's, which in my opinion looks like shit. If I were you I would make sure that when you get them they're CCFL's. Those are the solid rings, and those look the best in my opinion. I have mine in black housings and it does make it look better because of the contrast (my car is silver).
The one's I got from oracle are a bit subpar to be honest. The rings are floating essentially, being mounted at two points on either side of the circle. Very flimsy, but that isn't really my qualm. My issue is that the housings have some gaps in them that allow humidity to get into the lens. Given, it's not a lot and the only time it's been an issue is when I wash the car; they seem fine in the rain. I've had them on for two years or so by now and I haven't burned a bulb out, but I find myself leaving the halos off most of the time. I kind of got over the idea after a while, I think it looks good when the car's parked.
If you do it, trust me when I say the easiest route is to tie power from a fuse adder, and get a toggle switch. This one fits in the slots on the left side of your steering wheel. I made a weeklong effort trying to figure out how the DRL/city light/high beam circuit works in our car and trust me, don't try it. I've never dealt with it before so maybe it's normal for it to be like this but ours has a resistor on one side of the circuit, and when you turn your high beams on it just reverses the circuit. This doesn't work well with LED's because they're just on or off... there is no low brightness because low power.
Vvti cam gear O ring** And sorry man I’m not sure of the part number but this is a link of the kit I purchased which includes the crank/cam seals!
GATES RACING Timing Belt Kit... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075SLJK6C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Common type - MS304-00001. You will need two sets for four doors.
https://www.amazon.co.jp/-/en/Door-Stabilizer-General-Purpose-MS304/dp/B00DSLSJS8/
You can also consider the Aisin version:
https://www.amazon.co.jp/DST-001-AISIN-Door-Stabilizer/dp/B07CM6M26J/
I got them off Amazon this is the link to them if you want to check them out Spec-D Tuning Black Headlights Compatible with Lexus Is300 2001-2005 L+R Pair Head Light Lamp Assembly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPTQQ88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RSJKHA8N9BYFRQGFNQ70?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I snagged some decent cheapies from Amazon for my RPF1s along with a set of wheel locks.
M12x1.5 is the thread size & pitch, conical style is what aftermarket wheels use.
These worked for me if you're in Canada. I didn't install them though, my mechanic did.
They aren't perfect though, because he had to shim them with washers (they're too long and were hitting the tone ring).
Holstein on rockauto worked really well for my rear left, tho, so I would get those.
thanks! Got them here
AmeriLite Black Projector Headlights Pair Xtreme LED Halo for 2001-2005 Lexus is 300 - Passenger and Driver Side https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TM1NGL2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_MQYGJ930QMXYSCRYV83F
here's where I bought them, great halo headlights
AmeriLite Black Projector Headlights Pair Xtreme LED Halo for 2001-2005 Lexus is 300 - Passenger and Driver Side https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TM1NGL2/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_Y0R0H1GT9QV57R34GN8W
I got the full set but honestly the back seat doesn’t fit well for sitting so I suggest just front set. The front though is a great fit and looks really good. Quality is great I’ve had for a year and no tearing or rips. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YVN8MSL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_V2N4JG30SP6C52TW7J52?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Thanks. The materialcost me $62 but that's because I bought way too much material (2yds), should've stuck with just 1yd and paid half the price but I wanted to play it safe should in case I messed up. Then I got contact cement from home Depot for $16, also used some gorilla glue $10. So for $57 you could do the same too. Just make sure you actually get the material with a foam backing. It makes it so much easier laying the material on and looking OEM.
I did mine last year along with lower control arms and ball joints. It is not too bad! You may need to buy a tie rod removal tool. This is what I bought and recommend.
OEMTOOLS 27178 Master Inner Tie Rod Tool Set, Remove & Install Tie Rods in Cars, Pickups, and SUVs, Includes 12 Crowfoot Adapters & 1/2 Inch Drive Tube https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MS7FD62/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_YG7WA73XMJ9NRT8VG2P2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Here are the links to what I have for anyone who wants the same outcome. I still use the factory radio, I just hit the cd button to activate Bluetooth. (I don’t use cds at all and 99% of the time I listen to Spotify , the other 1% is radio)
With the plug in adapter for the radio.. you need to change the location of the ground pin in order to avoid having any static (I followed the pictures noted in the Amazon review)
Adapter :
Yomikoo Aux Adapter, Car Stereo CD Changer AUX 3.5mm Interface Adapter for Toyota 5+7 Pin 1998-2002 Corolla,1998-2002 Land Cruiser,1998-2004 Avalon,1998-2003 Highlander,1998-2004 Camry https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EUZ8G10/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_QCT03CEHR1BZEMT795RE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Bluetooth receiver:
Bluetooth Aux Adapter for Car, SONRU Bluetooth 5.0 Receiver for Car,Wireless Audio Adapter Portable Hands-Free Car Kits with RCA AUX 3.5mm for Home/Car Stereo Music Streaming Sound System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075WSFTTV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_0DHSNXWZXBEXMJW5Z2BS?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Yomikoo Aux Adapter, Car Stereo CD Changer AUX 3.5mm Interface Adapter for Toyota 5+7 Pin 1998-2002 Corolla,1998-2002 Land Cruiser,1998-2004 Avalon,1998-2003 Highlander,1998-2004 Camry https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EUZ8G10/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_QCT03CEHR1BZEMT795RE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
You’ll have to open it up and change the ground from one pin to another as stated on one of those comments in the Amazon reviews but it works great.
thanks so much. https://www.amazon.ca/Inner-Steering-Lexus-IS300-Right/dp/B0839PLJ33/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=is300+inner+tie+rod&qid=1635976547&sr=8-5 these look a lot better. im guessing these are the ones?
I put cheap 6000K in. Figured it was worth the risk since Philips & Sylvanias were over $100 each when I was looking last.
Link to cheapies
The Internet^TM suggests 4300-5000K for best illumination. Higher numbers gets more blue. In some areas over 8000K may be illegal
Yeah seems like naming on these isn't consistent. These things.
Yeah, I'd be down to cut some generics to make them "good enough" if OEM's aren't available.
I have them, been using them since I bought them. No real issues to my knowledge. But of course OEM is best. I got these back in 2017
Nice. Looks like you found a decent one too!
Seeing that yours is missing: S2000 radio antennas are good replacements, and if you don't use your radio much a stubby one like this is a great alternative.
just regular rustoleum spray paint. I used a semi-gloss black but you can use full gloss or matte. It's like $4 a can at home depot or $6 at lowe's. Here's an overpriced amazon listing so you know what to look for.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FKNSJU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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And you got some $$ left over for brake fluid and some beers.
The attached image is the bottom circuit board, found after fully dissassembling the radio. In the middle of the image, you'll see a cap labelled DOLBY-R, and a corresponding DOLBY-L in the background. These are the tape deck inputs.
A while ago, I followed a guide for converting these heads into a 3.5mm AUX plug, so that I can directly interface my iPod with the car, without needing one of those external audio devices (eg. GROM or Electronicx). I'm pleased to say that it works! Though it's kinda fiddly; it performs poorly with amplified signals, and I believe it's better off receiving Line Level audio.
Fast forward to today, and I've been playing around with Bluetooth transmitting modules trying to bluetooth mod the same ipod. As luck would have it, I accidentally ordered a bluetooth *receiver* instead of a transmitter, and have spent the last few weeks trying to find a use for it. I'm happy to report that today, I may just have found that use.
The HW-425 module I accidentally bought recieves bluetooth audio, and transmits at line-level to an amplifier. I have reason to believe this can be soldered directly to the DOLBY-L/R pins.
If you want to try this, you're going to need a 12V-to-5V DC-DC stepdown / buck converter, and you'll need to wire one of the radio face buttons to the module—disconnecting it from the radio in the process (I recommend the 'AUTO-P' button). To swap the input to bluetooth mode, simply insert a cassette tape into the head unit and use the button to pair the module.
The only downside to this system is that the tape deck motor continues to spin, and there is a brief pause every time it reaches the end of the tape and swaps sides. I'm sure this can be mitigated either by disconnecting the tape motor, and/or disconnecting the end-of-tape sensor.
I've actually bought this flywheel before from Amazon. It actually came with the bolts. https://www.amazon.com/Fidanza-130301-Aluminum-Flywheel-Lexus/dp/B004TR99T8/ref=pd_bxgy_3/131-0294200-3325954?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004TR99T8&pd_rd_r=b9ec25c4-a353-4406-81ec-1f5812ae5d35&pd_rd_w=fbM8t&pd_rd_wg=9pIbb&pf_rd_p=f325d01c-4658-4593-be83-3e12ca663f0e&pf_rd_r=H74207J8W35M3BRXPEY2&psc=1&refRID=H74207J8W35M3BRXPEY2
I highly recommend this kit. I did mine about a year ago and they still look brand new. It involves sanding them down and applying a UV coating. Everything needed is included in the kit.
https://www.amazon.com/SYLVANIA-Headlight-Restoration-Headlights-Protection/dp/B00429NKWK
Metra 82-6901 Universal Speaker Adaptor Plates https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007WQ8XE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_VQ3V2P6QY2ZXBWVRJCNR?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I picked up a 5.25 component kit and used these adapters and they run off of factory wiring/amp.
Akozon Shift Knob Adapter Universal Car Auto Gear Stick Shift Shifter Knob Head Thread Screw Adapter Replacement Insert Kit for Gear Shift Knob with Size:M81.25 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MVGYVMB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_MEVQVSFV6WMP8AR32NSQ?psc=1 would this work
I got the Power Step KC1079A Z23 Evolution Sport Brake front & rear drilled/slotted.
The powdercoated calipers are the same AISIN units that were on it stock.
If you don't use your radio much (I only bluetooth my own music) a stubby one will be fine
I got this one after a pair of bird sat on my floppy OEM one last spring and spent a few months pooping on my back window.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08745K56G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_jFXcGbZJWD3M5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 check out this headlight resto kit i have a 02 aswell and just restored them a week ago. Looks like a brand new car and took 45 mins.
yeah i use valvoline 5w-30 high mileage full synthetic oil with OEM d1 toyota filter. i'm probably going to be changing it for now on at 4k miles bc 5k seems a little to long of a time and 3k seems a little excessive. also the reason why my oil was brown was bc when i did my oil changed the old oil was black but when i added new oil i added way to much so when i drained a little bit to get it to the correct level the new oil mixed with some of the little left over old oil creating a brown/dark honey look which is why i said brown not black lol. also how much oil do you put? i heard 5.5/5.7 quarts is what's required but there seems to be some online conflicting info on that. but yeah in both instances where i drained the oil i didn't see nothing bad in the oil and the car isn't really burning oil. also it got low on oil the first place bc i believe my VVTI cam seals are leaking. also what's your opinion on UV dye for leak detection? https://www.amazon.com/Interdynamics-Certified-Fuel-Systems-Ounce/dp/B002M4G24U/ref=pd_lpo_263_t_0/137-2351227-9753944?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B002M4G24U&pd_rd_r=6b748ee3-530d-4ca2-806f-dc8e655f1b36&pd_rd_w=GgNl4&pd_rd_wg=ASCtU&... i wanna use it to see if theres any other places my engines leaking oil so i can replace the seals later in my next timing belt change but some people swear to never add additives into a engine and some people say it wont harm the engine. just askin bc you seem pretty knowable and helpful thx.
2005 takes H3 bulbs, I put in these LEDs but the ears on the connector need to be snipped off.
No matter what you do replace both since you need to take off the front bumper (or undertray and reach around blindly) to change the bulbs.
Consider any headlight bulbs while you're there, you'll probably have to take out the headlight housings. Also be aware there are 4 turn signal bulbs (2 per side).
For the three huge Allen key bolts - there isn’t a lot of room back there for a ratchet or breaker bar. What I did was use the proper sized Allen key socket - but rather than using a ratchet - I slid the proper sized closed end wrench on the Allen key. And then used another wrench together with it as leverage. I know I explained it poorly with words - but if you can’t envision it - let me know. I can get a picture of it.
For the Allen bolts for the drive shaft - I found these type of sockets worked well - I got my set from harbor freight -
Olsa Tools Long Ball Point Hex Socket Set | 3/8 Inch Drive Ball-End Allen Hex Bit Sockets | Comfortable Handle Grip | Premium Quality Micro Screwdrivers | Phillips, Torx, and Flatheads | Non-Slip Grip https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YBG6ZZP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1QqvFbAEK70QP
I wasn’t able to use normal Allen head sockets - there wasn’t enough clearance/room.
I was able to drop an oem open diff to lsd pumpkin alone - and swapped it back again when selling the car. So it’s doable alone. Just take it slow and don’t rush.
Don’t forget to soak all the bolts with penetrant a few days in a row before attempting - you don’t want to break any bolts.
You can use these bulbs: - https://www.amazon.com/Yorkim-Generation-Interior-Courtesy-10/dp/B00JRE38EA for big bulbs, door cards, and third brake light - https://www.amazon.com/WLJH-Extremely-Dashboard-Instrument-Indicators/dp/B0798R76CR for small bulbs also ignition ring
Best quality pic I could find: https://www.lexussouthatlantaparts.com/images/parts/toyotaOEM/fullsize/a1_530716K.jpg
This is probably what you're after: https://www.amazon.com/100xNylon-Bumper-Fender-Toyota-90467-07166/dp/B00MBAUD0O
I swapped in LEDs with resistors built in so I didn't have to mess with the workaround or wiring
Amazon link to rear turn signal bulbs
I’ve never tried a leather conditioner product on my IS300, but I tried Griot’s Leather Conditioner on my RX350 steering wheel and it works.
I’ve heard of Leatherique, and I’m going to try that next after I go restock. Someone posted a picture of their IS300 leather seats for their review on Amazon and I think it looks really great. Go on the reviews and check it out:
Not sure how much you paid.
This is the one I got off amazon:
Cardone 11-3402 Remanufactured Import Master Cylinder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C9RLQE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_G8UXEb03RTN29
It worked fine. And figured if there were issues I could return to amazon.
Good luck
Aisin TKT-031, this one is also good, it comes with some more seals/gaskets that are worth replacing. Be weary that the Aisin TKT-031 might come with the wrong tensioner pulley. When I bought my kit in 2018, it came with one from a Tundra. Others on Amazon have reported the same.
What mechanic did you take it too ? Has he never done timing belt before, It will not break you need this "link below" to loosen the bolt, it holds the crank steady while you break the bolt loose, you still might need two ppl. But you will most likely need that tool for sure,
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Did mine a couple of days ago actually! That crank bolt will be a pain... do yourself a favor and get one of the schley holders, two hefty breaker bars, and the longest iron bar you can get your hands on (I used the handle for my jack). I seriously can't recommend this tool enough (if the bolts don't want to go in spray the holes with cleaner may be caked in oil like mine was).
If you can also do your front seals and check for leaks in the vvti gear.
https://www.amazon.com/Schley-SCH64300-Toyota-Harmonic-Holding/dp/B0051XDBBG
Best of luck!
If it looks stupid but it works, it ain’t stupid. And lemme find you the link for the key-fob replacement kit... Edit: here ya go STAUBER Best Lexus Key Shell Replacement - HYQ1512V, HYQ12BBT - NO LOCKSMITH REQUIRED! Save money using your old key and chip! - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EBBJ23Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_s0rXCbW7MCDPR