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Ill find you an amazon link, however take note they need to be manually placed and fixed in place by opening the headlight
It was a somewhat heavy task but it can be done as it has a perfect fit inside of it without having to destroy the Chrome or the adjusting mechanism and it fits all patriot models
I bought this one. My complaints were that it does not line up strait with my cross bars and as such had to be slightly offset. The other is that it rusted pretty quickly.
I have a $90 CarPlay touchscreen/Bluetooth double din headunit that I bought off Amazon, and couldn’t be happier with it.
You’ll need the dash kit + aftermarket wiring kit (like this). It’s a breeze to install and looks factory with the dash kit, the plastic used is the exact same texture/ color as the OEM plastic.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W3N7QC9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_TXZCBM3YJB9F3K9M9WZ1
Mopar Jeep Patriot Cross-Roof Rails OEM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005XBG6HW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_X16gFb85JB86S
Says it’s for 20xx-20xx - doesn’t matter, they’ll fit. I’ve had mine on a 2014, 2015, and 2016.
Here's the only one I found that actually lists years and models.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.Euro_Car_Keys.Chrysler_Pin_Puller
There are a bunch on there but none I'd risk giving write access to my ecu.
Rack: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013COCXDC?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details
Lights: Amazon lights, unfortunately the ones I got are not available any more, but you could go with any amazon light you wanted.
Yeah, the CVT fill procedure is kinda convoluted. I'm told the dealer has some magic machine that fills it perfectly but from what I gather, it's just a dipstick that also acts a fill tube and temp sensor and it does the same as what I mentioned. One thing that I didn't mention, on my 2010, I've replaced the transmission fill tube twice. If it does not have that bracket about half way up the tube, have it replaced with one that does. Right around 50K, mine vibrated off while I was on the highway and blew out CVT fluid everywhere. The transmission got hot and the car went into limp mode. I took it into the dealer and they changed the dipstick out and refilled the transmission. I was told at the time this was a recall and the bracket was added later but I've never seen anything official about it. The second one snapped off at the bracket while I was replacing a headlight or a battery. I can't remember which. That still sucked but at least it was better than the first time.
It's a CVT. As I understand it, for a mechanic familiar with CVTs replacing it is not much more complicated than any other transmission on a similar sized vehicle. The cost is what gets you. You're looking at $3200 for just the main part itself. Thats before labor, fluids, gaskets and whatever else. gotta decide if an 11 year old car is worth that expense.
If its still working but has the "death whine" that you hear about, first thing to try is checking to see if it has fluid / what the fluid looks like. It doesn't have a dipstick, just the fill tube for one. You can buy the stick online here that'll let you check the level. For the CVTs, you have to check the level at cold and after running at intervals to determine if you need to add fluid. Mine came with a chart like the one in this thread and I use a bluetooth ODBII scanner and the Android app Torque to read the temp. getting the CVT to the proper level, with the proper fluid, and keeping the fluid cool seems to be the key to keeping one of these running long term.
Interesting. I've managed to get it to where the interior bulbs are off by messing with the light knob on the indicator stick. I'm really only worried (read: paranoid) about the dash warning killing the battery.
I have a jump starter battery (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H58NP77/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) but i've never been able to make it work with my '12 patriot. Its a champ for my wife's civic though.
Get this super cheap scanner and drop the code for yur viewing. Best $17 you can spend.
I wouldn't go so far as to say I bought a lemon but it's probably at least a lime. My credit sucks because of the scamdemic/plandemic and I needed a car. "Byrider" are cons and I knew it going in. The car itself is very clean and nice top and underneath. Yes, it's overpriced financing but "beggar's can't be choosers." I'm hoping I can fix it with the help of a few kind-hearted mechanic types and some videos.
How bad did I get burned?
Looking at a part but I'm not sure if this is a fix or not...
https://www.amazon.com/2007-2014-2007-2012-2009-2015-2007-2016-04891735AC/dp/B01NBTSSL7
How to diagnose the actual problem? Anyone? Please?
Sorry, I don't. My Jeep didn't have a factory camera and I installed this one:
Yessir, this is the wiring harness I used aswell
- Yes, it supports SiriusXM with an add-on module on their site. I don't know if it supports the stock antenna, but I'd guess probably not.
- Yes, you can download Netflix.
- Yes, it supports a backup camera. I have one similar to this one: https://smile.amazon.com/aSATAH-Adjustable-Waterproof-Shockproof-Reversing/dp/B083GDKKQV/ref=sr\_1\_8?crid=1QARS6P4ASR0K&keywords=jeep+patriot+reverse+camera&qid=1656725118&sprefix=jeep+patriot+reverse+camera%2Caps%2C86&sr=8-8
I thought about getting Sirius, but find that I'm quite happy streaming my music with Pandora. Whatever camera you get, try to get one that you doesn't have built in guide lines, as the radio has lines that move with the steering. If you have a factory camera, there is a wiring adapter available on Amazon.
These are the ones that I'm running now. I've been using them for a little over a year. The ones I had originally were made by the same company, but have been discontinued. I had to get new ones because of corrosion in the connectors between the CANBUS adapter and the bulb... so a word of advice, use dielectric grease on all of your connections, even if they look like they're waterproof.
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And if you're interested, here's why LED headlight bulbs flicker/flash randomly in FCA vehicles:
The headlight circuit is not a normal, 12v fused circuit coming straight from the battery like many other (especially older) vehicles. It's a 12v PWM signal coming from the vehicles TIPM. This PWM signal essentially is a signal that pulses on and off very fast. The purpose is to help keep a halogen bulb from getting as hot as normal, which helps to prolong their life. The issue with this design is that LED's need a steady 12 volts to work properly. Hence, the CANBUS adapter. A proper LED CANBUS adapter is just a capacitor that is designed to filter out the pulses and provide the steady 12v that LED's need.
I just did this on my 2014 Patriot last week….did a LOT of research after I made the mistake of just ordering LED bulbs that then would turn off while driving!!! Here is what I used last week and NO issues at all! (fanless Beamtech bulbs & SIRIUSLED Decoder…very simple to install)
along with
ARKSEN 64 Inch Universal Roof Rack Cargo with Extension Car Top Luggage Holder Carrier Basket for SUV, Truck, & Car Heavy Duty Steel Construction 150LB Capacity - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013COCXDC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_07ZWS94VFGE64BV6YE37?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Just got it so we will see how it lasts!
This one is finished in the factory texture/ color and matches perfectly.
Scosche CR1291B Compatible with 2007-2017 Chrysler / Dodge / Jeep ISO Double DIN Dash Kit Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015C1VH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_R4WCZNJS57FGFT2CQXFM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is a great semi-drop-in replacement:
10.1 Inch Car Stereo Radio for Jeep Patriot Compass 2010-2016,Android 10 Player Radio with Bluetooth,WiFi,SWC,Mirror Link, Support Navigation GPS 2G RAM 32G ROM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08SJM7VL5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_27V8PW3FTTMCPTJRM6FG
You can also just find a Jeep Patriot dash kit to fill the gap when mounting any standard double DIN headunit. My CarPlay double DIN was $70 on Amazon and works great with the Patriot dash kit and wiring adapters.
That's pretty crazy low mileage for a 2010. I would recommend getting a Carfax. Sometimes, a low mileage car was wrecked and sat in a yard awaiting repairs. You didn't ask, but since I got burned on this one, if you have 2 key fobs, you can program a third yourself. If you only have one, the second one has to be programmed by a locksmith.
As for the CVT, I have a 2010 myself with 190K on it and haven't done any of the crazy aftermarket mods on it. I will say that you should check the CVT transmissions fill tube. If it does not have that bracket about half way up the tube, have it replaced with one that does. Right around 50K, mine vibrated off while I was on the highway and blew out CVT fluid everywhere. The transmission got hot and the car went into limp mode. I took it into the dealer and they changed the dipstick out and refilled the transmission. I was told at the time this was a recall and the bracket was added later but I've never seen anything official about it.
Also, you will read that the transmission cannot be filled if it gets low because the fill tube has no dipstick. This is not true. You can check the fluid level, you just have to buy the dipstick. You also need an ODB scan tool (cheap elm327 and the torque android app work fine). Don't be scared off by me saying this, I only had to add tiny amounts of fluid here and there and when I lost fluid during a CV axle change. Under most circumstances, you won't need to check the fluid yourself.
All things considered, it's a solid little car. It won't be surprising anyone with it's 0-60 but It's mileage is not bad for a car it's size and it's not hell to work on if you want to do some of the work yourself.
No sadly. I just wanted to keep the OEM look. Got this from a different 2011 patriot. There are radios on Amazon like this that look semi OEM with Bluetooth!
Media controls on steering wheels sometimes are tough. I didn't add it in mine, but you can use a controller like this.
Make sure you wire up your parking brake wire correctly, it is needed to engage the backup camera. If you wanted to skip that, you can wire the parking brake wire to ground. The harness is very easy to put together, I would recommend heat shrinking the connections and electrical tape around the whole bundle.
I have a head unit from SoundStorm Labs with AirPlay, I wish I just spent $100 on a more reliable brand.
Hey try this Cargo Cover For 2008-2016 Jeep Patriot/Compass Black Retractable Trunk Shielding Shade by Kaungka(There is no gap between the back seats and the cover) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075H6W5YK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_R8SNDVZKYE8D15JY284Y?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I used something similar to the link below and spliced it into the cigarette lighter.
However I do not intend to use both the USB charger and an item plugged into the 12v sockett the same time so I haven't figured out what my limits would be as far as power draw is concerned.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MSK7ZAV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_3E35MN506AH2YH2EMBAJ
I went with the Alpine ILX-W650 which I’ve been very happy with. The benefit with it is that it’s a slim unit (no CD player) so there was plenty of room for the necessary wiring and steering wheel control interface behind it.
I ordered from crutchfield in the states, they do have a Canadian site but I’m unsure if they just ship internationally or if they have local warehouses. Their recommendation for the standard wire harness (backup cam is another story) and instructions made install easy and I still have full steering wheel controls. The unit itself is quick, both Android Auto and Apple CarPlay work great on it, standard am/fm radio as well. I use the smartphone connection 95% of the time though.
I do have the factory amp so the low power built in amp wasn’t an issue for me. Alpine does sell a matching amp that bolts to the back of the 650 but that makes it as large as a standard double din and more expensive than a different unit with decent power output.
I also haven’t been able to get the backup cam to work but it may be due to the wiring harness and not the device. I’m not super concerned with it so I just disconnected the reverse wire so the screen won’t even try to show the camera.
The only USB port on it is in the back it includes the necessary cable but you’ll have to do something for placement of it. I went big on the port placement…
I should have snapped some photos to share but I routed the usb down through the center dash using one of these and mounted the ports in the center console. I installed a 2amp fused usb charger and ran that to the second port as well.
Auto Ventshade 194359 In-Channel Ventvisor Side Window Deflector, 4-Piece Set for 2007-2018 Jeep Patriot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VEH5AS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_31SB42JK8FQEFH4R4D1V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Those are the exact ones I have
I was thinking about getting these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088H5CY1T/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1SK8DKQKI90N&psc=1
It's from .com, but ships to Canada for $30 extra. $110 vs the almost $200 for the ones you linked ($44 delivery fee). Just wondering if it's worth it for the extra $90?
Also was looking into getting these: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B075VNWDK5/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3UVKJB5UYIJR3
I believe the stock horn runs right off the TIPM, so running two horns directly off that as a power source can do damage (too much amperage). The best way is to wire a relay into that instead, which will run power direct from the battery to the horns instead, and the stock harness just provides juice to activate the relay.
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I've been using these, if you want a recommendation: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07V9M7FMH/
The dash kit + wiring kit is the second link in my comment :) It’s only for 2009-2014, so I’m not sure if it would work with a 2016, but here’s a dash kit and wiring harness that will:
(I have the SCOSCHE dash kit in my 2014, not the kit I linked above, and it’s perfect.)
SCOSCHE CR1291B Double DIN Stereo In-Dash Installation Kit Compatible for Select 2007-Up Chrysler Sebring, Dodge Avenger, Caravan/Grand Caravan, Nitro and Jeep Wrangler Vehicles https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015C1VH8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_M0XT3BKYANJSGBZ4C838
ASC Audio Car Stereo Wire Harness and Antenna Adapter to Install an Aftermarket Radio for Some Dodge Chrysler Jeep Vehicles- Compatible Vehicles Listed Below https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XR2MPKZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_ZSN79Z3G4AM64FY75X5J?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Unfortunately LED’s need a resistor to be able to communicate properly with the central computer. Luckily I found a good set on amazon that included the special resistor already wired in-line with the LED bulb. This makes installing LED’s plug-and-play just like a regular bulb. They also sell ones for the front turn signal too and with all turn signals converted to led they are bright enough to be seen even during the day. The regular Philips bulbs are always the way to go your just trying to do a quick replacement :). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NF7NPB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CS9DC8RWJY6YNST5Q0D3
Here is a link to some that look similar to mine and show the shape of the clamps(or whatever they are called haha)
ICBEAMER 50" 120cm Silver Aluminum Travel Camping Roof Rack Top Railing Cross Bars Cargo Carrier Luggage w/Key Locks https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B085X3TV75/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glc_fabc_ud69FbHSZY3M2
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07SMNF66N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_V2ENFb9F7MZEV
Heres the decoders I have, I zip tied them to a bar in the fender next to the headlights. Works like a charm. The headlights are just auxito H13, the ones with a fan, but they have a fanless version as well
I saw some faux carbon fiber plastic bits for the inside dash, as well as an carbon fiber antennae if you were interested, both on amazon. All done up in CF would look sweet.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07NNLGCS5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I'm about to put that into my CVT once my warranty runs out, you may want to give it a shot and see if that helps if it comes back/for peace of mind.
Mine is for an auto idk if they mount the same way but heres the link for the one i bought and like
cartaoo T-Handle Gear Shift Knob Handle for Jeep Wrangler Jeep Dodge Charger Challenger Compass(Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07777M71W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_514wIaZVqV4Gt
a Maestro-ADS-MRR as well as their adapter kit (apparently amazon doesn't carry it anymore).
paired with a Pioneer AVH-X390BS, though I don't recommend it, its has a misleading feature list, I was trying to go for android-auto but it is 'android compatible' and only works with pioneers janky app on the phone.
I wired mine. I used this... https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009KP77WU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Really plug and play and not to bad install. It piggy backs off your rear lights. The only wire I had to run is the power cord up to the front of the car. All the instructions are included.
Yeah, RWD you are absolutely screwed here. I think people tell themselves they need 4WD in a MI winter but the reality is 2x4 is plenty for 95% of the people. Zero doubt 4x4 would be a really nice perk though. I tend to drive my cars for like 10 years at a time though, so I'd much rather have way better gas mileage 365 days a year than a nice but not needed perk for one season.
But at any rate, the Pat has been a really awesome daily driver. Absolutely no regrets. If you do end up with one, you are absolutely going to want to get these mats: http://www.amazon.com/Rugged-Ridge-All-Terrain-12920-30-Caliber/dp/B008W1NNDU. Super deep for the slushy swimming pool that our winters create on our floor areas.