I also like to keep a couple of TRS to XLR adaptors ( like these: https://www.amazon.com/TISINO-Balanced-Quarter-Stereo-Interconnect/dp/B083R4CDT2/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=trs+xlr&qid=1628097007&sr=8-10 ) handy since most di boxes have XLR outs unlike the Stomp.
Here's how I do it:
Guitar -> HX Stomp L Input -> HX Stomp L/R Output -> THR Aux In
The only USB hooked up is the HX Stomp, so Logic is recording directly from Stomp USB. The THR is just a FRFR speaker at this point - you are skipping the normal guitar input and going in the auxiliary THR input which bypasses all THR modeling altogether (the only knob that will work is USB/AUX knob).
You'll need to get a splitter cable so you can route both L/R outputs of the Stomp into a standard 1/8" stereo TRS plug. I use this one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07XPTF19B
For sound output on the computer side, I just route the audio to my normal desktop monitors. If you want the computer to also output to the THR along with the guitar / stomp, you can hook the THR up with USB and use it as the sound output device on the Logic side.
Hope this helps!
Thanks! I have a couple other pedals I'm probably going to add to, so still researching power supplies. Likely going Cioks though.
Also, I just found this cable which doubles the current and has the correct barrel size all in one (for anyone else looking):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B083JMBP82/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I used this with a battery bank and Daisy chain cable for a mini board:
USB DC 5V to DC 9 Volt USB Power Supply Cable, Max Current 800mAh, Tip Negative Connector, Compatible for Guitar Effects Pedals Power Supply Adapter by CCYC Learn more: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GD54Q66/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_jNmaGbR5PGS3S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
So here's the thing. I just got off of my fourth time out doing FOH for Animals as Leaders. For warming up, they have a couple of these things that they bring to the green room with them and plug their guitars straight into them with nothing else in between. And then when they play into them, lo and behold, it still sounds like Animals as Leaders.
Yes, dialing tones and amps and stuff absolutely matters. But if you're not even close, I assure you that it's not the amp/modeler/preset, it's how you're playing. Their guitars matter as well, they like using coil-splits a lot and that helps for those more spanky tones. But it's really the technique more than anything.
Yes I would highly recommend this for you. For me I've always worn Earplugs with the full band just because stage volume with drums can get quite loud.
With the Helix I now use a set of these with foam ear tips like these out of my phones out to me personally. There are some global settings you need to modify (namely having the volume control work over your digital output or something so that it doesn't mess up any FOH send) but now your volume is your own personal guitar monitor.
I typically don't crank it too much as I'm blending with the background of the band but it works better than turning up my stage volume and making everyone else pissed.
Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-1-Channel-Microphone-Condenser-Recording/dp/B014H8AWGC?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&psc=1&smid=AUOXPLWF195VR
But I would check if it’s safe with the Hx Stomp first
This one in the link you provided is essentially what I’m looking for at this point https://www.amazon.com/Line-NSA27EU-090300-HD500X-Multi-Effects/dp/B0154WFJDG/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=Upbright+Line+6+Adapter&qid=1614386173&sr=8-1
Thank you! I can’t believe Line 6 thought that the design of that factory power supply was a good idea. That would take up half a Furman
https://www.amazon.com/Gator-Cases-Portable-Rackable-GRB-2U/dp/B0002D020I This is good, sturdy enough for you to not worry about it in your trunk or carrying in/out of venues. I'd be confident taking it anywhere except onto a plane
You're not powering a Tube Screamer anymore; you're powering a computer that replaces your entire rig. The VLPP2 is old. I had one. loved it, used it for a long time. That was a long time ago. Half the new FX out there require 500-1000mA, and power supplies have upgraded to support them. Amazon has a 3000mA wall wart for the Stomp from several different vendors. Sweetfoot Pedals makes supplies for under-board with a replaceable IEC cable. CIOKS makes supplies with current-combining adapters.
Basically, you've used up your external switch/pedal slots.
A midi footswitch controller could connect to your Helix via a midi cable, and would give you a huge amount of control over your Helix. It's incredibly easy to program IF you use a computer (connected to the helix via USB) to set the midi on the helix.
You wouldn't need the two switch pedal, because you could dedicate two footswitches on the midi controller for the program (and/or) stomp change).
Sounds like the all too common grounding problems.
Most people have the problem that they get humming when they plug everything into the wall AND use the USB cable. It goes away when they unplug the cable.
Bad power in venues is a very real thing.
But interference can come from other sources - lights and monitors are major culprits.
Plug everything up and stand in one place and turn your body and guitar and see if it increases or decreases - if it does, see if it's like if you're facing your monitor when it happens - that's a common cause.
If only one outlet in your house does it, it's likely something else that's plugged into that outlet as well. Fans on stage will do this if they're plugged into the same circuit a lot of times.
Wouldn't hurt to buy an inexpensive Outlet Tester from a hardware store - these can tell you if outlets are properly grounded or not.
But since you can't control what happens at venues, the usual suggestion is an EbTech Hum X Eliminator:
https://www.amazon.com/Ebtech-Hum-Plug-Style-Eliminator-Cleaning/dp/B07W682STV
For people with grounding issues on the USB cable, there's a little adapter on the market for that too.
FWIW if it's a "slight" hum, don't worry about it. Usually PA speakers themselves with have enough of their own hum to cover it, and even if not, the overall volume in a room is enough to cover it except when everything's dead silent.
So you might notice it at home or in isolation, but in a gigging environment while playing, it's not going to cause any issues.
That said, it's obviously annoying at home or if you're trying to record.
I just posted about this. My question is, am I really missing out if I'm just using these? How big of a difference will it be if I upgrade?
These things. They're great for playing barefoot.
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Looking at the manual - it seems that a 2 expression pedal setup require a cable with a TRS input to HX and a Tip input into one expression and a Ring input into the 2nd. Would a cable like this work if plugged into the TRS jack of Moog Expression pedals?
Doing a little bit more research and it seems that HX Stomps prefer expression pedals with TS jacks, whereas the Moogs have TRS jacks... But this is confusing to me bc I have seen Moog EP-3s recommended here repeatedly, which makes me think that maybe the TRS-> T/R splitter might do the trick...?
>high-end surge protector and a power conditioner
Ah damn, more stuff to carry.. Something like that? https://www.amazon.com/Monster-Professional-Protector-Technology-Amplifiers/dp/B09L7RGTXJ?th=1
I ve been touring/gigging with a regular pedalboard (individual 9V pedals), mostly US and Europe, and never had any issue. I m just transitioning to Modeler (HX Stomp, HeadRush MX5) and setting up a new rig around these - thus my question
A DI is not necessary. If the board has "1/4 Line inputs", you can run an ordinary 1/4 cable from Stomp to board; set the output level on the Stomp to "Line Level" if those Line inputs are truly calibrated for Line Level devices. Or, there's a 1/4 to XLR male adapter available on Amazon for about $9 that I use all the time and is plenty for your needs. If you want or to use a DI to convert size AND block phantom power or lift ground, there's little a $150 DI will offer you that a $30 one won't.
>Have any of you ever encountered this and were you able to get it out?
Yeah, had someone break off the end of some headphones in a headphone port. Same issue - inside, the port is just a sealed box you can't really get into.
Needlenose Pliers saved the day.
You can also find ones at the hardware store that are "reversed" - you squeeze the handles and they OPEN rather than close:
I use this one as backup or when the normal one doesn’t fit on a power strip. Works a ok so far. Cord is pretty short and thin tho.
500mA output > regular cable > red adapter > green adapter > Stomp. Or a cable like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016BJGZ2U/
Each output of the 1spot pro units can give a lot more current than they are rated for. As long as you don’t exceed the sum of all the outputs’ labels, you’ll be fine.
If you connect via usb, any sound you play on the iPad will come through the Stomp. But you’d likely need a usb-a to lightning adapter, like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LBL7Q6S/
(In addition, you can seamlessly use your iPod to record music very easily this way. You can use Garage Band or some other DAW, or even use iMovie if you want to record your Stomp audio as well as video.)
I believe this cable would work but I'm not sure if you'd have to change routing paths.
UGREEN 3.5mm 1/8 TRS to Dual 6.35mm 1/4 TS Mono Breakout Cable Y Splitter Stereo Cord Adapter Compatible with iPhone, iPod, Computer Sound Card, CD Player, Multimedia Speaker, Home Stereo System 3FT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZKM3SHK/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_MFMM6J436DRGZPGPGH6Q?psc=1
Another option. At least one reviewer is using them in a guitar amp.
1/4" (0.25 inch) Flush Mount Black Plastic Body and Sheet Metal Hole Plug - Qty 25 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PF0MPAI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EEEY9YY0MR19XYK0FMXJ
Thanks for the great idea OP.
Ive been using this thing. Fits pretty well, let me keep it on the floor and covered, could just flip up the top when I wanted to use it. Has a large pocket.
But honestly by use these I really mean once in a blue moon as I much prefer my headphones.
This may be a bit out of left field, especially in a Line 6/modeling based sub. However, since you didn't like Pod Go's UI or amp modeling, and have a history of using Fender amps, perhaps get a Joyo American Sound pedal. It's like a Fender amp in a box that'll overdrive plenty if you need it to:
You can build a small pedalboard around it. Some kind of booster pedal in front of it. A TC Spark perhaps, or RC Booster. Then an H9 or Zoom MS70 CDR Multistomp after it for your mod, trem, delay and reverb.
The whole thing can DI into your mixer/PA/FOH. Should be roughly the size of an HX Stomp when it's all put together. I still think an HX Stomp would be best, but if you didn't like the Pod Go, I don't think you'll like that either.
The FX Loop Return doubles as an aux input. Assuming you're plugging a smartphone or mp3 player into it, you'll likely need a 1/4" to 1/8" adapter.
I bought one of these and it worked from a one spot to my stomp. I think the one I bought has a spring loaded barrel so it works on both my stomp and normal pedals as well. The only thing is these take forever to ship from China.
Similar items can be found on amazon:
zdyCGTime DC 5.5x2.5mm Male 90 Degree Angle to DC5.5x2.1mm Female Adapter 5 Volt DC Barrel Power Jack Charging Cable Connector for Tablet (DC5.5x2.5mm)(2pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L5GGW7Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_DTF7M799D94E572GWZ8A
I grabbed a 12" HeadRush speaker earlier this year and it's been absolutely solid for me and my needs. I don't really use my Helix live (I'm more of the solo/singer-songwriter thing), but it's been wonderful for jamming at home.
You have to digitally connect the two within your computer. On Mac there are apps that do this. https://github.com/ExistentialAudio/BlackHole . On PC i have no idea. You can also use a free DAW to monitor the recording input from the Stomp on usb interface’s speakers.
Unfortunately, the selection for the Audio interface is greyed out when I select the Helix as an input.
Here's a screenshot: https://snipboard.io/SGaglZ.jpg The UMC is my audio interface.
Well, you do not need a DAW, but a VST host (which a DAW kind of brings with it).
I use Cantabile for this, it works like a charm when you have your Interfaces set up correctly.
If it's one of the smaller scarletts, I think 48v is either on for both channels or not at all. You might be out of luck here. Potentially, I think you could buy something like this to power the mic and leave phantom power off on the scarlett.
I have the original version of the same monitors. I don’t think both inputs work at the same time, I’m just saying in response to your question of how to use them without your helix you could go from your PCs headphone jack using something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JY2IA6A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_R2SB0X999NFCM09MD146 .
When you are using your helix there is no need to also plug the computer in to the monitors since the audio will go over USB to the helix and then out of the Helix outputs.
How has the patch been going?
Wanted to share a nice cheap finding: https://www.amazon.com/Status-Audio-Closed-Monitor-Headphones/dp/B01BDX1IVW/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=Status+Audio+CB-1+Closed+Back+Studio+Monitor+Headphones&qid=1622570943&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-3
These are pretty nice headphones that have the correct impedance for the Stomp. Not too expensive, either. I like them for this purpose, so I can leave my actual studio headphones on my audio interface.
I'm thinking more like this, I'm not sure if studio monitors would be best for a home theater? I feel like it would already be lacking with just bookshelf speakers and no sub but I live in a townhouse so just doing what I can to stay friendly with neighbors
> which would be better for bedroom playing, monitors or frfr?
I don't use my studio monitors because they sound like a recording, not an amp.
I use a pair of these for their flat response and couldn't be happier. (These are good, too.) When using the dual parallel amps with stereo delays or modulation effects, the sound image is unbelievable. The worst thing about them is there is a tendency to run them too loud because they sound so good.
I also occasionally run into a Mesa 50/50 stereo power amp and a 4x12 when I get the urge to make my pant legs flap.
This is what I have coming. I realize you said not big and complicated, but the cost of this one is what persuaded me to go this route when I was in the same position as you.
Feel free to ignore, but wanted to put it on your radar if you had not considered it. There is so much you can do with it that you can't get without midi and @ 170 for me it was worth learning. Plus I then can use it to control other pedals or rack gear too in the future if I want.
Put a little extension cable on the top input and run it under your board to the edge. Then all you need to do is plug in an input there, instead of plugging into the stomp itself. For example: https://www.amazon.com/Seadream-2Pack-Female-Extension-Cables/dp/B07SSKK4WG
You need an AES/EBU XLR cable. They are different to a standard XLR. I use cheap Monoprice cables and they work fine.
/u/canalguyopen is right.
I use this on all my electronics and I highly recommend it.
I mostly play my HX Stomp through my studio monitors. But you don’t need fancy studio monitors or an expensive FRFR. Something like a cheap powered speaker
Or even some cheap computer speakers
Would probably scratch the itch for casual practice.
The Shure A85F Transformer works really well! The transformer is the key part...not too expensive either, although you'll need another (longer) f-m XLR cable to extend the length.
I've had killer, no fuss results using several dynamic mics (sm57, e835, e935)....the main requirement is configuring your outputs properly within the HX menus to ensure you create two separate mono signals in and out for each input.
I use the Voodoo Pedal Power 4x4 with a Doubler Cable, and it powers the HX stomp perfectly, along with a bunch of other pedals.
There are lots of great options!
This is a perfect fit. Very snug. Very protective.
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