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You do not even have to use nimh for the chassis. Disposable AAA batteries will do but it is a bad idea because your pocket will get really big hole in it.
As for lipo, it is not advised. First of all neither the chassis nor the transmitter will have power cut-off, you you the risk over over drawing on the lipo, wrecking your battery in the best case and potentially a fire risk in the worst case. Next there is the matter of getting lipo to fit where AAA nimhs go, that alone would discourage most from even attempting this.
I just use these nimhs everywhere, at $1.25 per battery they've been great for value and the performance has been great. I think I got like 80 of these batteries now.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4JM0J0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These were cheap and worked for me:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RPXSF11/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You need the 1.5 mm 4 pins. The 1.25 and 1mm are too small. I got these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075CLCWBM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
this past February and got lots of extra wires and connectors that I am slowly using up for other projects.
As for the lights, it seem my soldering skills is horrible and takes me almost 45 minutes to get one set made. And then I notice for the red lights on the tail, half the time one of the red light is dimmer than the other... Can't figure out why that is....
Just thinking out loud, but could this be used for a modular drifting surface?
I don't think Radiolink's FHSS is the same or compatible with Kyosho's.
There are micro RX's that are compatible with mini-z, but I think they are made by Flysky usually used along with a Noble NB4
Several people in our club like this one quite a bit : https://www.amazon.com/Display-Universal-ISDT-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B07YG29YDC
Just picked up knock off set of front one way and solid rear axle from Amazon for half of kyosho. Seem to work okay
I use regular rubbermaid containers instead of tackle boxes. Then I fill it will smaller containers. One of these will hold a lot of small parts - https://www.amazon.com/Plano-3449-22-Double-Sided-Premium-Storage/dp/B000WXPTBA
4 Less CO 4x8 Ft Blank Vinyl Banner White 13oz Sign with Grommets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075YB4J8S/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_D8JNV5CGZJ7JXF0N1PNN?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
I hate amazon links. This is the best thing I can find as an example and what I actually purchased as a cheap attempt.
Hardwood floor feels too slick sometimes. Not sure about linoleum, but vinyl works great. Laminate flooring. Polished concrete. Enameled concrete. That banner is blank white, I feel it's the same material most drift Mats are made of. It's white so you can make your own track, add 2 together(my plan when I get the space) and add seam tape in the middle and it should work flawlessly. Haven't tested it but. For the 4x8 it's a good practice run and test for 40$. Plus if you ever need a banner you got one LOL.
These are the batteries I use for bashing around. Those throwaway Amazon generics will still burn a hole in your pocket compared to rechargeables like these:
Look into liion batteries. I believe AAA size is 10440. They are 3.7V(or 3.4 i can’t quite recall correctly) instead of 1.5V.
I have these and I found 2 dummy cells on eBay. You will also need a charger for these but they are fairly cheap.
Soshine 10440 Battery 3.7v li-ion Rechargeable- 350mAh 4-Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H3T7Z5G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ZRJRD70Z7XA3QSTF7FDQ
Run the dummy cells in the middle and you only need to change the outside batteries
I use this set from IFixit. I do a good amount of electronics repairs so I already had this set. iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit - Electronics, Smartphone, Computer & Tablet Repair Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GF0KV6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_5E1CPTCP8V86A4BD7G21
EVA foam from your local craft store. It's the same material that the "real" tracks are made from (pretty sure). You can buy the puzzle-piece floor mats (the ones you see at day cares to kid-proof the floor), and make a full track, down the road (HA!). Amazon link
It is very delicate work. To drill those tiny holes are the exact right place. I would suggest getting a white body to experiment to figure out exactly what you want to do before doing this to the Autoscale body.
And when you are ready to mod the Autoscale body, you often have to very carefully pop off the clear light covers first and that is a puzzle in itself. I think it is best to push them out from the inside of the body and try not damage too much the little tabs/clips that kept them attached to the body.
Now if you got the white body, you would have an extra set of clear covers so then that would not be such a big deal. However when gluing the covers back make sure to use a glue that will not fog the covers. E.g. https://www.amazon.com/Testors-3515CT-Clear-Parts-Cement-1oz/dp/B0006N6ZHS?th=1
I found 2 on cults3d with just a quick look, one free that's probably scaled correctly but has artefacts due to file size compression or simplification, the other is paid and may or may not require scaling to suit.. supra bodyshell paid supra bodyshell free
I don’t have data but I have been using AmpTorrent 1.5V AAA Rechargeable Lithium Batteries mostly use it on my MA-020VE and my MF-015VE, so far had no issues with bursting and cogging.
I choose these over the Deleepow because when power is running low the AmpTorrent drops to 1.2v. I didn’t like the fact the battery goes from 1.5v to 0. At least you see a performance drop before the AmpTorrent goes flat.
My mini z 4runner with yeah racing's wheel kit, carrying a Turbo Racing 1:76 scale rc off-road car. I know this is a mini z sub, but I do recommend the 1:76, it's kinda amazing.
I use these, they work great for me.
EBL 808U Battery Charger with 8 Counts AAA Battery Rechargeable NiMH 1100mAh https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0788SP6XC/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_T2MW4CFMV57M342NBSPY
I found these really cool plastic things that look like little road dividers... they were really cheap too
1/24 1/28 Rc Car Drift Track... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08P3X9YLR?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I have one of the neon tube lighting kits. It's a single LED stuck in the end of a clear tube that acts like fiber optic. Take a look at prewired 1206 SMD LEDs. You'll need to figure out the appropriate resistors and how to attach to the car's power, but I think you can make a better underglow with those than the tube.
Here are a couple of free bodies I designed for 3d printing too:
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/various/mini-z-truck-body
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/mini-z-race-pick-up
(To help convince you to get a 3d printer 😜)
Yes, it's possible - I've created several projects around this concept. Here's the most recent one:
https://www.hackster.io/ishotjr/iorct-the-internet-of-radio-controlled-things-8a6bed
I created something similar for Microsoft Mix 11 where attendees could drive a Mini-Z via Xbox controller or (heh) Windows Phone.
I also have another "pace car" project that can be controlled via a phone over Bluetooth. That was a long time ago, however, and today I'd use Machine Learning instead of ultrasonic sensors. I have a 1/16th scale autonomous car but haven't gotten around to shrinking it down to Mini-Z scale yet.
This is the thing I used and the gear hasn't slipped for at least the past year:
The plastic ones all break sooner or later. Here is an example of an aluminum one: https://www.amazon.com/Kyosho-Mini-Z-Upgrade-Aluminum-Knuckle/dp/B01890LQSM/ref=sr_1_1?crid=36Q10G7DHJQX&dchild=1&keywords=mini-z+aluminum+parts&qid=1635213366&qsid=143-2504192-8789500&sprefix=mini-z+aluminum+parts%2Caps%2C88&sr=8-1&sres=B01890LQSM%2CB010XGE4XO%2CB01890MACS%2CB01890LLM8%2CB01890LKQA%2CB07D8RJ3MQ%2CB01890M71W%2CB01890LVLY%2CB010XGEYG6%2CB010XGF5G4%2CB01890LOOS%2CB010XGE7BS%2CB00MO06Y5Y%2CB0854VRKCP%2CB07WHYBVJ5%2CB08VDR3MYW%2CB079JZ374W%2CB0716L9WF2%2CB0854VZ1WQ%2CB000YIEJH8
You need find the one you like for the amount of toe you want.
These are really good for the price at a little over $1 per battery:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00404R1ZY/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_9?smid=&psc=1
They work well and provide lots of run time for practice. There are definitely batteries with shorter lifespan that have more punch for racing, but these will be good for getting lots of laps and lots of practice. Seems like they perform like eneloops at 50% of the cost.
here is the link. i have the ma 020.
Thanks! My patio is very uneven and I have the same problem with the joints popping up. I’m using the 3M 766 vinyl tape, which is very thin. It sticks well. The tape is a little slick, but with drift tires, it is not that bad. There are still bumps in the track and it is somewhat of a rally course. :) I like that I can leave it in the sun and just sweep it off or wet dry vac. I do want to try the hockey tape that Pig_in_a_blanket recommended.
3M Safety Stripe Vinyl Tape 766DC, Black/Yellow, 2" x 36 yards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NFXNJXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_Z4PMAQB4TD9S3AH6XHQ0
The GT-R is a far better value. You only need to get some bearings like these:
You can probably get even cheaper bearing if you shop around and/or willing to wait. Bearings can't justify that $45 price difference.
/u/Willsongpearsong
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YYVHMXB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_00Q05FEVC9GNE55GBCB6
$30 for four bags 25.5x25.5x8.5. Got 24 pieces in four bags without squishing or compromising.
Those velcro cable ties are a great idea. I am using these:
https://www.amazon.com/Business-Source-T-Pins-2-Inch-Silver/dp/B004IPX0XC/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=t-pins&qid=1614712988&s=office-products&sr=1-5
Like 600 of them. Real pain in the _____ to put them in place. Stuff still modular technically, but it would take half a day to move stuff. Luckily I have an unfinished basement so the track just sits there. But next time I need to move it, I am going with something better than t-pins.
> Opus BT-C3100 v2.2
I have the ISDT N8 and it's pretty good, if you're not in a rush to charge your batteries u can plug them in and it'll drain them then fully charge so u don't develop any sort of memory loss and its only 50 bux. link here
https://www.amazon.com/Powerex-MH-C800S-8-Cell-Smart-Charger/dp/B000LQMKDS
only quirk is it "soft charge" a battery must be loaded in the first left side slot to enable, then load the rest of the batteries.
they have a fast charger but honestly on the soft charge it is like a half hour.
Try a free one like this:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.protocolrc.colortrax&hl=en_US&gl=US
It works ok but cars needs to have distinct colors. I found if I tape a stripe of different colored masking tape on the car it will actually work to the thing treat the cars as different colors.
Glad it worked.
I initially ordered this because I thought 1mm was small enough. Tamiya Craft Tools Item 74049... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQWM0E?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share I was wrong. It was still big.
So I ordered this yesterday.
Tamiya 74044 Fine Drill Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000J49X9Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_J7T32DQDH9CDSJ2JFQZR
I am quite positive one of these drills will work.
I know there are many other drills that are cheaper but I just like Tamiya’s quality. Throughout my experience, I learned not to go cheap with tools. I’ll either pay with time (takes longer to do the job) or failure of the job and have to do it over.
I paid about 17 bucks each so the price you see on Amazon now is quite overpriced.
Edit: the first drill set has 1mm, 1.5mm, 2mm, 2.5mm, and 3mm. The second set comes with 0.3mm, 0.4mm, 0.5mm, 0.6mm, and 0.8mm
Have you tried this:https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.protocolrc.colortrax&hl=en_US&gl=US
You just need an smartphone or tablet, and it works fairly well unless you are doing real race environment with lots of cars on the track at the same time. I am using this on my very ancient Samsung S3 that I no longer use as a phone.
These are the wires that I use when I resolder the motor leads.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07RPXSF11/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Haven't had the broken wire ever since I done this the half dozen or so motors I had done this preventative maintenance procedure.
This is basically free, or cost no more than an old phone no longer in use:
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.protocolrc.colortrax&hl=en_US&gl=US
If you were seriously holding a race for multiple cars at the same time, then you might want to buy something better. But for a couple family member this is cheap and good enough.
At $40 with a controller. You are looking at kid's toy level stuff. Try this for size?
Very cute!
I've recently been playing around with some pre-wired LEDs https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FN8B3XV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Those are the red ones, but they come white, amber, etc.
I'm trying to teach myself how to figure out the proper resistor(s) needed for the specific mini z ecosystem, but two of these wired in series is roughly mini z voltage.
High quality rims matter, and for tires I use LF-3 drift tires since they're the best I've found between LF-1s and Mini-Z stock drift tires.
This gyro: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L5FSQ5W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and this servo: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B085M9KCC1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Are the best and cheapest options. AGFrc is the manufacturer for tons of re-branded parts that are upsold all across the mini-z market so buying direct from them is sometimes half the price.
That servo will not work stock and 100% requires a 3d printer.
I bought the GL Racing sensored brushless motor and ESC but its a complete waste of money. No real performance benefit but the ESC looks nicer than the stock plastic one so there's that.
These the nimh AAA that I use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B4JM0J0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
If you use non-rechargeables it will consume a lot of batteries very quickly.
They are water slide decals for Macross Frontier that comes with the cars. And prices for them have spiked up now that COVID-19 is messing with shipping from Japan.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JJCKKO/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_10?smid=A2O26DKY96AQD0&psc=1
But now that I can't go nowhere, I finally had time to get the conversion done. Had these for nearly a year prior sitting in the box.
As for the why... you have to ask Kyosho. But if you look closely the only significant difference is the bearings set that you would probably want to get like this one:
Which is about $10 and not the $45 difference. You can get the bearing even cheaper if you get them in larger bulk quantities which make sense if you got multiple cars.
BTW you can also use the FHS/MHS mode to bind to the flysky FS-GR3E receivers, and those are dirt cheap 2 for $19:
So I was able replace my old 75Mhz old AM crap for my ancient 1/10 scale Tamiya's and use them with the KT-432pt.
With a MA-020 you want to stay with the NiMH batteries, lithium cells are too light will throw off the MA-020 balance completely, due to the electronics and the motor being on one side.
Probably very subjective you can use any brand AAA NiMH rechargeable batteries.
I picked up this EBL 8-slot charger that will charge AA and AAA batteries off amazon: EBL Charger & battery combo
For around $20 it seems like a deal since it includes (8) 1100-mah AAA batteries (I use these for my practice and qualifying heats, then run a seat of Peak 900mah batteries for the mains).
I like this particular charger because it has (2) USB ports, so I can also run my Kyosho Speedhouse charger for a quick top-off before a run, as well as charge a phone.